Most senior dogs probably aren’t up for an epic hike, but they love the chance to go back to school for some continuing education. It doesn’t matter if you’re brushing up on the basics or focusing on new skills. As long as you take your time and use dog-friendly training techniques you’ll have a surprisingly eager student. 

Read on to discover some fun training exercises to do with senior dogs.

Can You Teach an Old Dog New Tricks?

Short answer? Heck yes! Our dogs never lose their love of learning, but there are some special considerations when it comes to training older dogs. When tackling new training, pet parents should understand that dog training exercises for older pups might need to be modified to address any potential physical changes. That means paying attention to every aspect of the training process, including:

Training environment: Physical limitations might make it tougher for senior dogs to perform certain activities, like getting up and down quickly, so make sure the flooring is comfortable and grip-able. Consider the temperature and lighting in the area as well. 

Past training: If you’re working with a new-to-you dog rescued through a senior dog adoption there’s a good chance that your pup has had training in the past. It might take some sleuthing to figure out what they do and don’t know!

Timing: Puppies are raring to go 24/7, but senior dog energy has an ebb and flow. Time your training sessions so that your older dog has the right amount of focus and spirit for the work.

Diet: Older dogs can pack on the pounds easily, so make sure to use small, healthy treats.

Physical limitations: Achy joints might mean that a long sit-stay is uncomfortable. Watch your dog to ensure you’re not asking for behaviors that can be painful.

4 Fun Training Exercises for Senior Dogs

When it comes to senior dog training, fun is the name of the game! The following dog training tips will help you make the most of your golden years together.

Arm Cross Sit

Most dogs can’t resist jumping up to greet people, and senior dogs in particular probably have a long history of being accidentally rewarded for jumping on guests. This training trick is an easy way to turn pushy greetings into polite welcomes. 

The first step is getting your senior dog to “guess” the behavior that earns a treat, and most dogs usually default to the desired behavior: a basic sit. 

To begin, take your pup to a quiet room, come to a stop, and cross your arms over your chest without saying anything. The goal is for your dog to recognize the body language cue instead of the verbal one. Your dog will likely plop into a sit position right away (especially if they know you have goodies in your pocket!), so mark the behavior with a “yes!” or “good!” and hand over the treat. 

Repeat the process, walking a few steps, and then pausing to cross your arms and wait for that sit again. It usually only takes a few repetitions for most dogs to connect the crossed arms position with the resulting reward for sitting, at which point you can move training to other parts of the house. 

Practice it near entry points in your home with a variety of people and in no time, your formerly jumpy pup will be the perfect canine ambassadog! 

Targeting

This behavior is a simple foundation skill that taps into a dog’s natural inclination to explore with the nose. It’s great for seniors because it’s low impact and easy to teach. 

All you have to do to begin the process is present your open hand to your dog at their level and then acknowledge them with a verbal marker like a “yes!” or “good!” when they move toward it. Praise your clever dog and give a treat from the other hand. 

Continue the process until your dog actually touches nose to palm when you present your hand, and then begin associating a word with the behavior, like “touch” or “target,” by saying the word as your dog performs the behavior. 

Continue working on the behavior in a variety of new environments so your dog begins to generalize it, meaning, they can perform it quickly no matter where they are. 

Don’t forget to vary your positioning, like switching hands, offering a fist instead of a palm, or doing it while seated. This will make it fluent, so that your dog can perform it everywhere you go!

Stay

If there’s one training cue where most dogs backslide over time, it’s probably “stay.” (With “come” in a close second place!) The good news is a quick brush-up is all it takes to reinforce the basics of this important skill. 

The first step is helping your dog understand that you’ll be moving away but they should remain in place. Ask your dog to do a “down” since it’s a more anchored and comfortable position, say “stay,” and then take a single step to the left or right of your dog. (Stepping backward usually encourages dogs to break the stay to follow you.) Immediately step back to your dog and give a treat for remaining in place.

Keep it easy for your dog to win by remaining close during the early stages of training. Once your dog seems comfortable with remaining in place, try stepping away in different directions, and gradually add more distance between you and your dog. 

Work up to having your dog hold a stay while adding in everyday distractions, like loading the dishwasher or briefly leaving the room.

Leash Walking

You might be wondering how to leash train an older dog, especially if you’ve just welcomed a new-to-you rescue. Leash walking might be a challenging activity because your senior dog never learned how to walk politely on-leash and has spent a lifetime pulling, or because your dog is transitioning to a different environment than they’re used to and it’s overwhelming. Learning to stroll instead of sled-dog is an important skill for every dog no matter what age.

The basic premise of leash training is simple: pulling makes the walk stop, and keeping a loose leash means moving forward and getting paid with goodies. When you head out for a walk, load up your pockets with small, soft treats, then reward your dog for staying close to you (perfect heel position is not required). 

The early stages can be a little messy since the only requirement is that your dog doesn’t pull, which means there might be some leash juggling and tripping! If your dog alerts to something and starts pulling toward it, simply stop walking. 

Most dogs will look back at their person after a few seconds of not moving, at which time you can praise them, offer a treat close to your side so your dog comes back into position, and then continue walking. Leash training takes time, but persistence and patience work!

Senior Dog Training: Tips for Success

As with all dogs, the best approach to training senior dogs is using positive reinforcement training, whether doing it on your own at home or in a group setting. The primary consideration with senior dog training is recognizing and working with any physical limitations. For example, dogs with achy joints might need to rest on a throw rug when working on down-stays, or pups dealing with diminished vision might need a brighter training space. Additionally, older dogs tend to pack on pounds easily due to a sedentary lifestyle, so make sure to keep rewards small.

How Long Does it Take to Train an Older Dog?

Based on the old adage, you might think that training an elderly dog is going to be tough, but the reality is that senior dogs have just as much drive, determination, and smarts as the whippersnappers! 

The exact amount of time required to train an older dog depends on factors like the skill of the human end of the leash and the type of behavior that’s being taught, but pet parents with seniors can rest assured that it’s no more difficult than training a newbie. Sure, you might have a few less-than-perfect habits to address, but with a little patience and a commitment to having fun, your senior will be wowing fans in no time!

The post 4 Fun Training Exercises to Do with Senior Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Training.

It’s something people are still trying to figure out, but first, it’s critical to understand why proper training is necessary.

The Importance of Dog Training

Training is as integral to a dog’s life as food, water, and exercise, says Jenn Prill, a certified professional dog trainer, certified canine behavior consultant, and owner of SideKick Dog Training in Milwaukee. 

“The world is difficult enough to navigate as a human – let alone as a dog who cannot speak our language, has different ideas of what is socially acceptable, and doesn’t have opposable thumbs,” she says. “Training allows us to teach our dogs the ‘rules’ of living in the human world, urban environments, and a home.”

Jennifer Pratt is another Milwaukee-based certified trainer and behavior consultant and the founder of Wag the Dog and Company. She adds that training is how your dog learns to take in the world and how you learn what they think of it and how you can support them. 

“We don’t get dogs because they’re so much work. We want to enjoy their companionship and doing things with them,” Pratt says. “Dog training allows for that because it opens up communication and helps us establish relationships with our dogs.”

But for all our best intentions, when it comes to training our dogs, it’s easy to make a mistake. Unfortunately, making those can mean critical setbacks when it comes to a dog’s development and, in turn, the development of your relationship with your dog.

8 Dog Training Mistakes to Avoid

Here are some of the most common dog training mishaps that pet parents make. 

Mistake #1: Delaying Socialization

If you think training for your new puppy can wait until behaviors worthy of correction start arising, you’re thinking about training all wrong.

“Puppies learn the most about the outside world between 6 and 16 weeks of age,” says Dr. Amanda E. Florsheim, founder and owner of Veterinary Behavior Solutions and The Training Studio outside of Dallas. That means it’s the absolute best time for acclimating your dog to a wide variety of places and experiences, including riding in the car, going on walks, different textures and surfaces, meeting new people or other species like cats, she says.

Thinking about socialization as a gateway to what most people traditionally think of as training is the best way to approach things with a puppy. Prill says teaching behaviors like how to sit, lay down, or drop should not be the focus of training around this age. 

“Instead, focus on socialization, house training, crate training, chewing, puppy mouthing/play biting, etc.,” she says. “There are so many more skills that are important for a puppy to be learning during such a critical time period and for the family to be focusing on for their puppy to help him become a confident, happy, healthy member of the family.”

Mistake #2: Thinking Your Dog Is Too Old for Training

On the flip side, it turns out you can teach an old dog new tricks. In fact, it’s important for your dog’s physical and mental well-being that you do. Just don’t necessarily expect to see results as quickly from senior dogs in comparison to puppies and young adult dogs. 

“Think of [training] like your dog’s daily Sudoku puzzle,” Dr. Florsheim says. “We want to keep those brains sharp and thinking well into their senior years. Some things may have to be modified to account for any physical limitation, but dogs of any age can participate in most types of training quite successfully.”

Mistake #3: Not Respecting a Dog’s Individuality

Debby McMullen is a certified dog behavior consultant and owner of Pawsitive Reactions LLC in Pittsburgh. She says one of the most common training mistakes she observes is simply a matter of expectations.

“Accepting that [dogs] are a different species than humans and have very different needs is very important,” she says. “Accepting that they have their own likes and dislikes, as well as the same emotions that humans have is important. Accepting that they are not robots nor accessories is important.”

This is especially common when the dog parent is experienced because he or she may naturally compare the new dog with previous pets. 

Mistake #4: Ignoring Breed-Specific Behaviors

While individuality is real and important, it’s also critical to remember that dogs have been bred over thousands of years for some specific purposes, and some “unwanted behaviors” that parents may observe are simply the dog acting on instinct. 

“When it comes to training, dogs all learn basically the same way, but some breeds are task-oriented – diggers, herders, protectors, or lap dogs,” Pratt says. “That stuff is in the dog’s DNA, so it’s important to provide that in their daily life to keep them fulfilled and happy.”

An inability to provide breed-specific outlets for your dog can lead to behaviors that are hard to correct.

Mistake #5: Using Outdated Methods 

“Alpha,” “dominance,” “fear” – these are all instant red flags when it comes to training. Utilizing resources that recommend this style, or hiring a trainer or behavior consultant who leans on them, will hinder your dog’s development – or worse.

“Fear is the hardest thing to modify,” Pratt says. “Making sure you’re not instilling fear, and finding a professional to help in case that does happen, is so important.”

Instead, lean on methods and experts that are described as “fear free” or centered around “positive reinforcement.” These training methods and techniques focus on rewarding behaviors you want and redirecting others that you might not.

To distill it down to one question, Pratt suggests asking “What happens when my dog gets it wrong?” Does the reinforcement get removed? Or do they get a correction? The former will allow your dog to thrive. The latter will not.

Mistake #6: Getting Advice in the Wrong Places

In addition to some of the outdated, dominance-centric trainers and materials out there, Pratt says she has noticed a concerning trend related to the solicitation of advice from strangers online.

“People have a potential behavior that they want to work on with their dog, like jumping or growling when you approach the food bowl, and they go directly to social media to find help,” she says. “Other people feel OK giving advice because they may have had dogs in their lives for so long. Everyone has an opinion on how to raise them, but that doesn’t mean those opinions are informed or even helpful.”

Whether you simply need a question answered or you need an in-person consultation, professional help with a behavior-related issue should come from someone who promotes fear-free methods, as discussed previously. You should also seek out someone with qualifications such as:

• CPDT (Certified Professional Dog Trainer)
• CBCC (Certified Behavior Consultant Canine)
• IAABC (International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants)

Mistake #7: Hovering Over Your Dog

Part of training is knowing when to stay out of your dog’s way and giving him enough latitude from time to time to have the confidence to figure something out for himself. And Dr. Florsheim says there’s never a better time for that than during a walk, or what she calls a “sniffari.”

“While we want dogs to learn to walk with us and focus on us when we need them too, allow them to have some extra leash so they can sniff and explore,” she says. 

Mistake #8: Pushing Your Dog Too Hard

Does your dog seem to lose interest in training after five minutes? There’s nothing wrong with him, Dr. Florsheim says. You just need to stop the session at four minutes. 

It’s always best to leave them wanting more, she says. It’s similarly important to not try to fit a square peg into a round hole. Some dogs like to train in groups, while others have a hard time focusing in that setting. One dog might like to train using agility games, while another prefers to use his nose.

It’s all about setting them up for success, Dr. Florsheim adds. “Find out what your dog loves, and work with that.”

Dog Training Tips for Success

A truly proactive approach to dog training starts before your dog even comes home with you. Pratt recommends thinking ahead with the other human members of your family about your feelings regarding things like your dog being on the couch. That way, when your dog comes home with you, everyone is clear and consistent and on the same page.

“In some situations, the dog is going to get frustrated by not knowing what it can and can’t do,” she says. 

Another early key to heading off potentially unwanted behavior is managing the environment. Prill describes this as simply observing what’s around you and taking small steps that prevent your dog from even having the opportunity to “act out.”

“It can be as simple as putting up a baby gate or buying a garbage can or laundry bin with a lid,” she says. “Immediately, there’s a decrease in the ‘bad’ behavior, and you’re able to make the ‘good’ choices more appealing for the dog.” 

When to Consult a Training Professional

It’s always better to seek professional training help too early than too late. 

“I typically tell folks to reach out for help before annoying behaviors become concerning habits,” Prill says. “Chewing occasionally on the table leg can lead to your dog pulling baseboards off the wall to chew on. And a dog woofing at the mail person each day can lead to a dog working themselves up for several minutes at anything that moves on the street outside the front window.”

Additionally, some “bad behaviors” could be the result of a medical problem your dog is dealing with. (For example, he won’t sit on command because it hurts.) It’s important to identify physical problems quickly, and being proactive about consulting a professional trainer could help in this respect.

The post 8 Dog Training Mistakes to Avoid Making appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Rubbing the dog’s face in a pee accident, or hitting him with an empty paper towel roll for unruly behavior, will do nothing but confuse or intimidate the animal. In some instances, we may not even realize we are punishing a dog with our actions. 

There are easier and safer ways to get consistent, desired results. In this article, you will learn about why it’s never a good idea to punish your dog. You will also take away some helpful training tips from experts to help your pet learn right from wrong and become a happy, confident, and obedient dog. 

Punishment Vs. Positive Reinforcement

When you punish your dog for unwanted behavior by either hitting, yelling, or yanking at the leash, it causes him to become stressed, fearful and, in some cases, more aggressive. In some dogs, this attention (even when negative) reinforces bad behavior. 

Punishing a dog may work in the moment, but it is rarely effective in getting long-term results. It also causes mistrust that fractures your bond with your beloved pet. 

In the past, it was believed that dogs learned through punishment. However, in the last ten years, great strides were made in our understanding of our canine companions and how they learn. “Through many studies and even more research, we learned that dogs learn best through positive reinforcement, habit building, and teaching alternative behaviors,” says Marissa Sunny, dog behaviorist at Best Friends Animal Society (BFAS). 

BFAS is a leading animal welfare organization working towards putting an end to euthanizing cats and dogs in the country’s shelters by 2025. Unruly, unwanted behavior is among the main reasons why so many dogs end up in shelters. These numbers can be significantly reduced if pet parents give their dogs obedience training that promotes positive reinforcement. 

“You can teach your dog to live in our human world in harmony with you and your family without harsh training methods,” says Linda Keehn, certified dog behavior consultant and certified professional dog trainer of Positive Canine Training, LLC, based in Cedarhurst, New York. “The dog will be happy to work for and with a humane leader that is clear in what is expected, fair in those expectations, and forgiving of mistakes.”  

Positive reinforcement includes using high value rewards such as treats, verbal praise, or physical affection that builds the dog’s confidence and motivation. It makes the dog happier and more willing to continue the behavior that resulted in the outpouring of love.  

5 Reasons To NEVER Punish a Dog

When we bring a dog home for the first time, we can’t expect them to know the rules of the house or read our minds. Sure, dogs are intuitive, smart, and can pick up on a lot of cues, but they also look to us for guidance. 

When your puppy starts going through the bathroom trash or goes into your closet to chew on slippers, punishing him physically or verbally will just cause confusion and harm. Worse, it will make him afraid and could cause him to no longer trust you. 

Similarly, when your adult dog starts pulling on the leash, pulling back won’t make him learn the right way to walk.  

In this section, we will go over reasons why you should never punish your dog. You will also learn how to properly address unwanted behavior and build a positive and trusting relationship with your canine companion. 

Punishment leads to fear, anxiety, and confusion 

Similar to humans, dogs learn when they feel safe and trust the teacher. “If the learner is afraid, anxious, stressed or confused, the brain shuts down as safety becomes the primary thought process,” says Keehn. “This is not a state that promotes learning.”

According to Sunny, it’s important to avoid things that promote fear, anxiety, confusion or stress in your dog. This may include rubbing the pup’s nose in their urine if he peed in the house, tapping him with a rolled-up newspaper, or using leash corrections. 

“These things are confusing to dogs, and don’t get to the root of the behavior.” 

Punishment is not as effective as positive reinforcement 

The best way your dog will learn is through reward-based training. It’s good to ensure that your dog has favorable associations with certain objects and actions, so he has a consistent positive or neutral experience with them, says Sunny. “Just like people, a negative experience with something will hold a much larger weight to a dog than a positive association.” 

Sunny recommends keeping an eye on your dog’s body language to see if he is getting pushed “over the threshold and becoming scared, frustrated, or overwhelmed with something.” In this case, it’s best to go slow and be patient with them and use positive reinforcement. 

Punishment-based training, according to Keehn, tells a dog what not to do. Whereas reward-based training teaches a dog what to do. For example, if your dog is sitting calmly next to you, reward them with praise. This will teach him that being calm is to his benefit. 

Punishment breaks the bond between you and your dog 

“Punishment can be effective, but at the price of the trust of your dog. The price of the bond you wanted to forge when you brought your dog into your life,” says Kheen. By using reward-based training, you are communicating effectively by showing him what’s acceptable, and this helps build a relationship. 

Kheen uses the example of punishing a dog for jumping upon you when entering the house to demonstrate the importance of positive interactions to build upon the bond you have with your dog. The dog is excited to see you after many hours and wants to greet you in the way dogs do — face to face– which leads him to reach for yours. Instead of being grateful for this exuberant greeting, a punishment technique would include kneeing him in the chest to “correct” this behavior. 

“How do you think this makes him feel? Not so great. But what if I just bent down and pet him so he could get his greeting with all four paws on the ground. No conflict, just understanding and love.” This solves the jumping problem without hurting or pushing the dog and breaking that trust. 

Punishment techniques can cause your dog pain

Prong collars and choke chains are not only painful, they are unproductive. “I would steer away from any equipment, or technique that causes pain, fear, or intimidation,” suggests Keehn. 

Using a choke chain or prong collar is an out-of-date method to control dogs from pulling on their leash. 

You can get your dog to walk well on a leash without inflicting discomfort or pain by using reward-based training techniques. If the dog doesn’t seem to respond to regular training niblets, try using high value treats during walks. These treats are typically moist and aromatic, such as string cheese, peanut butter, small pieces of a hot dog or sardines. 

Punishment can cause unwanted consequences 

When a dog gets punished for behavior we consider bad, there’s a chance he could misinterpret the message and lead to some unwanted consequences, such as aggression. 

For example, if a dog barks through the fence or screen door when other dogs pass by, it could get irritating for the humans really fast. We naturally want to curb this behavior. Using a shock collar whenever your dog barks at strangers may put an end to the barking, but it may make him associate the activity with pain. 

“After a few times [of being shocked], the dog associates other dogs walking by with pain, so he becomes more aggressive to dogs walking by or even any encounters he has with other dogs,” says Keehn. 

“There is no way for the dog to know the owner was causing the shock. He may think the dog walking by caused it.” This also applies to using electric fences in front of the houses where the likelihood of people and dogs passing by is greater. 

Training Tips for Building a Healthy Relationship With Your Dog

Proper training is the best investment a pet parent can make to prevent fear, anxiety, stress, and unwanted behaviors. Whether you start off doing the training yourself with basic techniques at home, go to group classes, or hire a professional trainer, it’s important to keep in mind that with time, patience, and love, it is possible to foster a healthy relationship with your dog and help him become a great pet. 

Below are some training tips to consider when starting your dog training journey. 

Understand your pet 

“The first thing I would recommend is learning to speak your dog’s language,” says Sunny. Having a better grasp of the dog’s body language can help discern his true feelings. “Often, we misread the dog’s stress as excitement, which leads us to accidentally put them in very stressful situations.” 

By paying attention to their body language, we can better understand why something bad happened and correct our own behavior, similar to sitting down to allow the dog to greet us at the door properly. 

Build a Trusting Relationship

When there is a trustworthy leader, dogs are more than happy to take direction. You can build a trusting relationship with your dog by using positive reinforcement. “Dogs will continue to do things that they get rewarded for, until it becomes a habit and they no longer need the reinforcement,” states Sunny.  

To be effective at this, Sunny recommends giving the dog ample opportunity to succeed. 

“For example, when potty training you want to take your dog outside, on a leash, to the area that you would like them to eliminate in. As soon as they do, get very happy, praise them, give them treats, and let them off leash (if safe to do so). This will help them learn to go outside and go potty before getting to play.”

Use Redirection

It is natural for dogs, especially puppies, to chew on your wrists and ankles, or your favorite shoes. “It is our responsibility to redirect them to appropriate things,” says Sunny. “When a dog starts to chew on something they are not supposed to, you can calmly say ‘Eh!’ and hand them something they are allowed to chew on, like a toy. When they chew on the toy, praise them!” 

Hire a Professional Dog Trainer 

“I think pet parents should consider hiring a trainer as soon as they are seriously considering a dog – even before they get a dog,” says Kheen. When considering getting a dog, she recommends budgeting a few training sessions or basic level group classes. 

“This will get you all off to a great start and limit unwanted behaviors before they start.”

For training to work long-term, it has to be consistent. This means the work doesn’t end as soon as the session ends. By continuing to use the learned techniques with your dog, they will learn the commands and form a habit.

The post 5 Reasons You Should NEVER Punish Your Dog appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Scent training for dogs gives canines a chance to use their enhanced olfaction to detect everything from illicit drugs to explosives, as well as illnesses like cancer and diabetes. That’s great news for us humans, but we’re not the only ones to benefit from scent work.

According to New York-based scent trainer Diana Ludwiczak, when dogs use their nose to sniff things out, it can have a surprisingly calming effect on their mood. 

Scent training provides both physical and mental stimulation, encouraging dogs to “expend energy by utilizing their brain in combination with their nose to find things,” she says. Ludwiczak has observed this calming effect first hand when she trains dogs how to detect bed bugs for her company, Doctor Sniffs Bed Bug Dogs.

However, scent training isn’t just for working dogs. Any dog can benefit from the stimulation and engagement that scent training provides. And your pup doesn’t have to be a bloodhound or any other breed known for their nose to give it a try! 

What is Scent Training for Dogs?

Scent-focused training helps dogs learn how to use their instinctive sniffing abilities to detect specific smells and alert their handler or a pet parent when they do.

Scent training has many practical applications. Some dogs learn scent work to help them fulfill a certain role or job. For example, scent training is essential for dogs used for search and rescue missions, narcotics enforcement, and bomb detection.

Other dogs undergo competitive scent training. The American Kennel Club considers scent work a sport and stages trials where AKC-registered dogs can pit their scent detection skills against others.

Finally, for many dogs, scent training offers a fun new way to play — one that can boost confidence, bust boredom, instill discipline, offer enrichment, and foster bonding. 

“While scent detection is an important career for some dogs, for others scent training is more about helping to alleviate anxiety or expend energy,” says Ludwiczak. 

How Dog Scent Training Works

As you might expect, how scent training is conducted varies depending on whether a dog will be sniffing for fun, for sport, or for work.

Working dogs typically undergo training by an accredited organization, such as the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT), or the World Detector Dog Organization (WDDO). However, since professional sniffers are often highly specialized to detect specific scents (e.g., mold, narcotics, cadavers, etc.), they may require specialized training and accreditation from industry-specific organizations, such as the North American Police Work Dog Association (NAPWDA) or the National Entomology Scent Detection Canine Association (NESDCA).

Pet parents can also find professional trainers who will teach dogs how to detect scents for fun or sport. And while the training is often based on the same principles used for working dogs, the standards are not nearly as stringent.

According to scent trainer Joan Hunter Mayer, owner of The Inquisitive Canine in Santa Barbara, California, getting started is easy and prior obedience training isn’t usually required.

Mayer is a K9 Nose Work Instructor certified by the National Association of Canine Scent Work (NACSW), which specializes in training “designed to include any dog, no matter the breed, age, gender, disposition, or size,” says Mayer. 

However, it’s worth keeping in mind that some breeds of dogs may be easier to scent train than others. For example, “German Shepherds, Belgian Malinois, Labrador Retrievers, hounds, pointers, and spaniels are all great breeds for scent detection because they have endless energy and a desire to learn new things,” says Ludwiczak. “I love training rescue dogs who have some combination of a few of these breeds in them.”

In Mayer’s scent-training classes, dogs start out by searching for either a favorite toy or food reward that’s been hidden in a series of increasingly challenging environments. New challenges and search skills are added as the dog progresses. Once a dog has mastered the basics, the search target changes to a unique scent, such as birch, anise, or clove. Now the dog learns how to search by odor only, according to a scent cue. When they find the source of the scent, a tasty treat or favorite toy rewards them and reinforces the lesson.

Nose Work for Dogs: Fun Scent Training Games to Try

If you’re interested in scent training for your dog, but you’re more of a hands-on pet parent, there are plenty of DIY scent games that you can play with your pet at home. Just keep in mind: “Each dog is an individual, and needs to be treated as such,” says Mayer. 

“The variables in how well a dog performs in this sport are numerous and varied. Your dog’s breed and whether they’re a member of a working group is one consideration, but that doesn’t necessarily correlate with the success of the dog, or the dog-handler team,” she adds.

Your best bet is to remain attuned to your dog’s engagement level and responses. If training is getting more frustrating than fun, it may be time to take a break and try again when you are both more rested and refreshed. 

Here are some great at-home starter activities to help sharpen your pup’s scent-detection skills.

1. Create a scavenger hunt. This can be a great scent-training game to play with any dog. Start by keeping them outside of a room or away from a designated space while you hide several small treats or a favorite toy.
   
   When it’s time to begin the hunt, let them in and ask, “Where is it?” in an excited voice, letting them smell one of the treats that you’ve hidden, so they can sniff the rest out.
   When playing scent-training games, “it’s a good idea to use a different voice,” says Elena Zimmerman, a pet parent who started training her mixed breed dog when he was six months old, using techniques she learned from a certified dog trainer friend and lots of online training videos. 
   
   “Use the same questions and phrases consistently when you’re searching, such as ‘Where is it?’ and ‘All done!’” she suggests. “This helps them recognize what kind of game they’re playing and what to expect.”

2. Play the “shell game.” This is a great option if you don’t have a lot of space for a full scavenger hunt, or if your dog is easily distracted. 
   
   Place a small treat or toy under one of several overturned plastic cups and let your dog sniff out which one hides the treasure. As they get better at it, you can increase the difficulty by showing your pup where you’re hiding the treat and then swapping or moving the cups around. 

3. Introduce interactive food toys. Investing in an item like an interactive food puzzle or mat is an easy way to enrich mealtime, strengthen scent-training skills, and appeal to your dog’s inner hunter. 
   
   Simply hide treats within the toy for your dog to sniff out and enjoy. Just be sure to keep tabs on the calorie content of the treats you’re using and the quantities you hide…they tend to add up fast!

Scent Training for Dogs: Tips for Success

When approaching scent training, Mayer recommends taking a more relaxed approach than is often used with traditional obedience training. 

“You want an enthusiastic dog who is going to utilize their skills,” she says. “Once you give your dog the cue to search, allow them to do their job by giving them the freedom to hunt and problem solve.”

Although it might be difficult to do so, Mayer says to avoid giving them direction or telling them what to do after the initial search command. “This is their environment. We’re just there to keep them safe,” she says.

Scent training has plenty of positive advantages to offer dogs of all ages, temperaments, and breeds. Not only does scent work help dogs “burn both mental and physical energy, but it also builds confidence and independence, and helps dogs form stronger bonds with their handler,” Mayer says. 

Plus, scent training can also help pet parents learn more about their dogs, by “honing in on body language and understanding how to translate their cues.”

“Dogs, by nature, are predators and problem solvers. If we don’t give them problems to solve, they’ll likely develop their own,” Mayer adds. “Nose work and other scent-specific classes give dogs the opportunity to utilize their innate survival skills and thrive.”

The post Scent Training for Dogs: What it Is and How to Do It appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Excitement urination typically happens during highly charged happy scenarios, particularly during greetings and play. While it can be frustrating for pet parents to keep cleaning up, excitement pee can be resolved with a combination of management techniques plus a little time to mature. 

Not sure how to teach your dog not to pee when excited? Read on!

Why Do Dogs Pee When Excited?

We might assume that every puddle in the house is a sign of a lapse in potty training, but that’s not the case when it comes to excitement urination. 

Keep in mind that a dog that pees when excited is dealing with an involuntary reaction – the pup might be perfectly housetrained in all other scenarios. 

It’s a common behavior in puppies because they haven’t fully developed the muscles to control urination, and the good news is that most dogs grow out of the behavior as they get older.

Excitement Urination in Dogs vs Submissive Urination

While excitement urination and submissive peeing might seem like the same thing, the two are related but distinct challenges. Both behaviors can occur in similar scenarios, like when people arrive home, but pet parents should watch their dog’s body language to determine which type of elimination they’re dealing with. 

A dog that urinates when excited will probably display other behaviors that convey happiness, like a relaxed face, wiggly body language, and a broadly wagging tail.

Dogs displaying submissive urination often look nervous or uncomfortable. They might lower themselves to the ground, keeping the tail tucked against the body, flatten their ears, lick their lips frequently, or even roll over onto the back as they eliminate. In the dog world this type of body language is a way to appease higher ranking individuals. 

How to Stop a Dog From Peeing When Excited

Wondering how to stop excitement urination in dogs? The first step, before attempting training, is to schedule an appointment at the veterinarian to rule out any health issues, like a UTI. Once you’ve gotten an “all clear” try the following tips to help treat excitement peeing.

Keep greetings low key. Of course you’re excited to greet your best friend when you arrive home, but over-the-top hellos can lead to leaks. Rather than making a big deal about your reunion with a loud, happy voice and lots of petting, try letting your dog greet you while maintaining a mellow vibe. Refraining from reaching out to touch your dog can help as well.

Consider moving greetings outside. You won’t have to worry about cleaning your throw rugs when you say hello on the sidewalk or grass. However, keep in mind that if you have to leash your dog in order to safely greet outdoors, the act of leaning over your dog to put the leash on might trigger urination. If an unleashed outside greeting isn’t possible, keep your reunions indoors but roll up the rugs until your pup has a little more bladder control.

Watch your body language. We don’t always realize how our nonverbal communication impacts our dog’s behaviors. For example, reaching over your pup and giving exuberant pats on the head and back might seem like a wonderful way to say howdy, but it could be more excitement than your dog can handle without accidentally dribbling. Instead, try squatting down facing away from your dog and gently petting your dog’s shoulders or side.

Tone down the volume. Related to body language, our voices can amp up our dog’s excitement as well. Rather than using a high pitch or booming voice during greeting, keep your tone low and soft.

Redirect with treats or toys. Giving your dog a “job” can help shift the focus during a greeting. A toy-driven dog might appreciate the chance to latch onto a stuffie, and a treat-driven dog might enjoy scooping up a handful of tiny treats that you’ve tossed onto the floor. However, there’s a fine line between delivering these goodies in a quiet way and turning them into yet another thing to pee about!  

Manage guest greetings. Rather than trying to deal with your guests and your peeing pooch at the door, consider putting your pup away as you welcome people into your home and let everyone get settled in before letting your dog out to meet them. Help everyone understand the proper way to interact with your dog to prevent accidental triggers.

In Conclusion

Remember, this behavior is involuntary, meaning your dog can’t control it. That’s why it’s especially important to never punish your dog for excitement urination. Punishment might shift excitement peeing into submissive urination, which adds a layer of complexity to the training process. 

If your dog leaves an accidental dribble on the ground the best bet is to avoid making a big deal about it and then clean it with a good pet odor eliminator.

With the right behavioral modification techniques, management, and time, a dog who pees when excited will grow out of the behavior, and you and your best friend will enjoy happy (and dry!) hellos!

The post Dog Pees When Excited: How to Manage Sprinkling appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Why Dog Walking Is So Important

The most obvious reason many of us walk our dog is hygiene—we do it to give them a chance to go potty. But there are so many other reasons why walking is a great idea for the health and wellness of your best friend. Walking expends energy while giving your dog a chance to take in the sights and sounds of your neighborhood (both of which can also help to take the edge off activity levels). Plus, enjoying the great outdoors with your pup is a wonderful way to strengthen your bond … if you do it the right way!

7 Mistakes to Avoid When Walking Your Dog

Some of these leash walking mistakes might come as a surprise because they’re subtle. The following are a few of the ways we might be falling short when it comes to walking our dogs:

Using the wrong type of leash

Believe it or not, this simple tool can have a major impact on the quality of the walk for both you and your dog. Leashes that are too short can take the fun out of walks for your dog because they don’t allow for sniffing, and leashes that are too long put your dog at risk for accidental confrontations or veering into traffic. And retractable leashes have a list of issues, from causing rope burn, to snapping under pressure, to encouraging pulling due to the constant pressure on the string. The best leash option for your dog is a 5- to 6-foot fixed length leash that’s thin enough to be comfortable for your dog but thick enough to keep them safe. 

Using old school tools for pulling

Prong and choke collars might seem like quick fixes for dogs with a leash pulling habit, but the fact is they’re now considered outdated because we have more dog-friendly tools available to combat the tendency. No-pull harnesses that fit around your dog’s torso or legs address pulling in a gentle way that doesn’t rely on pain to train.

Requiring heel position

Heel used to be the go-to walk position but the reality is it’s an unnatural and unenjoyable way for your dog to navigate the great outdoors. Leash walks are your dog’s opportunity to sniff and connect with the world around them and forcing your dog to remain glued to your side prevents your pup from doing so. Heel is a competition obedience behavior that slipped into the real world and shouldn’t be a part of your casual neighborhood walks. As long as your dog keeps a gentle curve in the leash and walks without pulling, you’re good to go, no heel necessary!

Not allowing sniffing

While walks sometimes feel like a chore to you, they’re cherished recreation for your dog that gives them the chance to connect to their environment. While scanning the horizon is part of it, dogs need the chance to pause to really breathe in the scents around them. Hurrying your dog along deprives them of the opportunity to learn what’s happening in the neighborhood, from the other dogs that have already passed by to the creatures that scurry along at night. Plus, most dogs require time to sniff before they choose where to eliminate. Dogs need a solid pause of at least five seconds to get a read on a scent, and longer to really understand it. Depriving your dog of this wonderful and enriching experience can take the fun out of your daily walks.

Being on the phone

We get it—you’re busy. But disconnecting from your pooch to plug into your phone deprives both of you the chance to bond during your walk. Leash walks should be an adventure that you enjoy as a team, and that can’t happen if you’ve got your eyes glued to a screen. And not only that, being on your phone could be downright dangerous if your dog spots something chase-worthy while you’re not paying attention. Next thing you know you’ve got a cracked phone and a dog disappearing in the distance! Staying connected to your dog, not your phone, during walks will keep both of you safe and happy.

Not acknowledging check-ins

This one is subtle but it’s so important to keep your bond strong. If you’re not paying attention to your dog (perhaps you’re on your phone?), you’ll be unable to experience those beautiful moments of connection when your best friend glances up at you as if to say, “Ain’t this is fun?” Telling your dog “good job” or better yet, offering a treat when it happens, will help your dog learn that checking in with you is a good thing, which in turn can decrease pulling and increase the strength of your bond. Choosing to look at you despite all of the intriguing distractions around you during a walk is a huge compliment, so make sure to let your dog know that you appreciate it!

Walking the same route

Your dog is probably happy to hit any street or trail, but walks become even more fun when you switch it up! Walking in a different place gives your dog a chance to experience new sights and scents, which is inherently enriching. It’s important to give your dog safe, novel experiences for mental exercise, but the good news is you don’t have to travel to the mountains to make it happen. Something as simple as walking a parallel street, or beginning your walk where you normally end, is enough to provide a new and exciting adventure.

Dog Walking Essentials

Of course you need a leash, collar or harness, and waste bags when you go for a walk, but there are other important items to consider when you’re heading outside:

• Treats: Whether you’re still refining your dog’s leash manners or you’ve got a slowed-down senior, you should still fill your pockets with some goodies to reward your dog for their polite walking. 
• A collapsible water bowl: Going for a walk on a hot day? Don’t forget your dog’s travel bowl. With tons of sizes and shapes to choose from, you’re sure to find a bowl that’s light enough for you to carry and that your dog feels comfortable using. (Some even allow for shared sipping!)
• Reflective materials or lights: If you’re walking at night, your dog needs a way to be seen. A leash with a reflective band in it or lights that attach to your pup’s collar can help to prevent accidents.

Identification: Even if your dog is chipped, it’s a safe bet to outfit your dog with an ID tag that contains your contact info. In many cases, it’s the quickest way for a runaway dog to find their way home to you.

The post 7 Dog Walking Mistakes You Might Be Making appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Most pet parents don’t want to reach into their dog’s mouth to pull out the offending object, but the alternative—letting your dog swallow it—isn’t an option either. Enter: “drop it.” 

The “drop it” cue can be a literal lifesaver when your dog has grabbed something dangerous, but it can also be used in casual daily interactions, like during a round of fetch or tug. The more you incorporate the “drop it” into your dog’s training repertoire, the easier it’ll be to use it in situations where you need it.

Why Teach “Drop It”?

Dogs are curious by nature, and their active noses often lead them to grab stuff they shouldn’t. Trying to wrangle contraband away isn’t a great idea since dogs love to try to eat all sorts of gross things. Plus, most dogs play to win when it comes to tug-of-war with stinky prizes. And some contraband needs to be dealt with immediately, like medication that fell on the floor.

“Drop it” also comes in handy if you have a dog that doesn’t want to release the ball during games of fetch or for dogs that get super intense during tug. Asking your dog to “drop” allows for a break in the action and can make playtime even more fun.

Before You Begin

Some dogs can become possessive when they grab something they value—whether it’s a wooden spoon snagged from the dishwasher or a dirty sock—and they may engage in resource guarding to prevent you from taking it away. 

If your dog stiffens, growls, or lunges when you move toward him to retrieve stolen goods, consider enlisting the help of a qualified positive reinforcement trainer. 

Keep in mind that every dog has a hierarchy of goods, so before you begin “drop it” training, you need to understand what your dog values. It’s easiest to start the training process with low-value items that your dog will happily relinquish to get a treat.

And of course, you’ll need to load up on high-value treats since you’ll be doing multiple trials during each training session. The treats have to be more interesting than the item you’ll be using for drop training, so opt for goodies like bits of cheese, lunch meat, or hot dogs.

Finally, keep your lessons upbeat and happy. Sure, figuring out how to teach a dog to drop it is important for safety reasons and can feel a little stressful, but you’ll be more successful if you keep the training process fun. 

How to Teach “Drop It” in 9 Steps

Once you’ve identified an item low on your pup’s hierarchy, you’re ready to train your dog to drop it. For play-motivated dogs, this might be their least favorite ball. For food-motivated pups, try an empty rubber treat-dispensing toy usually filled with goodies.

Step 1: Offer the item to your dog and let him take it in his mouth. Don’t force him to take the object, if he’s not interested in it, find another equally low-value item.

Step 2: Place a treat close enough to your dog’s nose that he can smell it and wait for him to release the item in anticipation of getting the treat. 

Step 3: Give your dog the treat as soon as he lets go of the item and praise him for doing a good job. Many dogs will gobble up the treat and try to grab the item again, so if your dog manages to snag it, repeat the process, but this time toss the treat a few steps away so your dog has to chase after it and you have time to pick it up before your dog does.

Step 4: Offer the item to your dog again, and once it’s in his mouth, repeat step three.

Step 5: If you’ve been holding the treat in front of your dog’s nose to get him to drop the item, try a few repetitions so that the treat is visible but not close to your dog, like at your side. This prevents the treat from becoming a required part of the “drop it” process; your dog shouldn’t have to see the treat to relinquish the item.

Step 6: Once your dog quickly releases the object, begin adding the word “drop” or “drop it” right as he lets go of it. At this stage, you’re teaching your dog by pairing the word or phrase with the action he’s performing. Your dog should start to make the connection after about ten repetitions, at which time you can give your dog the item and ask him to “drop.”

Step 7: Remember that a few successes in a training scenario don’t equal “drop it” mastery. Move up your dog’s hierarchy by working with more challenging objects, like a favorite toy or a piece of dry pasta. And don’t forget to follow up every victory with a treat.

Step 8: Continue practicing in various environments like outside, starting with low-value objects and gradually increasing the value of what you’re asking your dog to drop.

Step 9: Once your dog is reliably dropping when you ask, try a few “cold trials” by planting preferred objects on the ground around the house and outside and ask your dog to “drop it.” A speedy response in these challenging scenarios means that your dog knows what he’s doing.

What If My Dog Won’t Drop It? Helpful Tips

If you’re trying to teach your dog how to drop items, but it’s not working, consider the following potential issues: 

You’re using boring treats. “Drop it” can be a challenging cue, so make sure you give your dog high-value treats for his hard work.

You tried to jump from training trials to real-life too quickly. Just because your dog nails “drop it” in your family room with an old sock doesn’t mean that he’ll automatically be able to do it when he grabs a hamburger wrapper on the street. It takes time and attention to perfect this cue in the real world.

You stopped practicing. You and your dog need to keep the “drop it” muscle in good shape by working on it frequently. This is a “use it or lose it” cue, so never stop working on it.

Once you and your dog have mastered the “drop it” cue, you’ll be amazed at how handy it is. The next time you come across a chicken bone on your walk, you’ll be thrilled that you and your dog spent time working on the right cue to have him let go of it.

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This trick is the perfect way for you and your dog to have fun for fun’s sake, plus it’s a great way to impress all of your dog’s fans. 

The roll over dog trick might seem complex, but the secret to success is dividing the behavior into small, easy-to-achieve steps. 

Why Teach a Dog to Roll Over?

Any dog training you and your dog do together is great for your relationship. Positive, dog-friendly training gives you a common language and allows your dog to experience more freedom, plus it’s a phenomenal way to cement your bond. Done the proper way, training is fun for both ends of the leash. 

What’s even more fur for you and your pup is trick training. The pressure is off when you work on tricks; sure, your dog needs to have a solid recall and dependable “stay” to help keep him safe, but it doesn’t matter if his “spin” is sloppy or his “wave” isn’t perfect. The most important part of trick training is that “brain training” is one of the best ways to wear out your busy pup and teaching them tricks is cute.

Roll Over Dog Trick: Before You Begin

Your pup will be spending a fair amount of time on his side and back as you work through this trick, so pick a training spot that’s comfortable. A quiet, carpeted space is best. You’ll be giving your pup many treats during the initial stages of training, so load up on tiny (about the size of a fingernail), high-value treats. 

It’s helpful to use a clicker when training “roll over” because things move fast, and some of the behaviors your dog will be doing might be tough to catch. You can also use a marker word like “yes” to bridge your dog’s successful attempts to the food reward.

How to Teach a Dog to Roll Over: 6 Easy Steps

A fun and creative way to teach roll over is “shaping,” which breaks down a complex behavior into small, manageable steps and makes it easy for your dog to be successful.

Think of it as the childhood game of “hot and cold.” You’re using the marker to let your dog know when he’s “getting warmer” and rewarding him for it, which will make him less likely to give up. Instead of capturing the whole behavior right away, shaping allows your dog to get treats for approximations of the finished product. When using shaping, you build the behavior, bit by bit, until you have an adorable dog rolling over.

Here are the steps to teaching your dog to roll over:

Step 1: Lure your dog into a “down” position by using a treat to get him to put his belly on the ground (asking for a “down” turns the roll over trick into a two-step process). Place the treat in front of your dog’s nose and slowly bring it downwards and between his front paws. Most dogs are already familiar with this luring motion and will plop into position quickly.

Step 2: While your dog has his belly on the ground, watch for any small movements. This step is where you want your dog to be creative–he’s not sure what you want from him, but he’ll likely keep trying different things to earn a treat. Anything from a paw swat to a head bob can signify the beginning of the rolling process, so mark these gestures with the clicker or marker word, then follow up with a treat.

Step 3: After a few repetitions of marking and rewarding whatever movement your dog is offering, hold off and wait for your dog to do something more obvious (if you keep rewarding the same behavior, your dog won’t do anything else because it’s “working” to get a reward). So, if your dog was flicking his paw, withhold marking and rewarding the gesture. He’ll likely get frustrated that he’s not earning a reward and will try something different, like scooting his entire shoulder as if to say, “don’t you see what I’m doing?” Mark and reward the new behavior for several repetitions, then continue the sequence of waiting for a bigger, more obvious behavior to replace the one you were rewarding.

Step 4: The first time your dog shifts from one side of his body to the other – the middle part of the roll over trick – is worthy of a major celebration. Mark the moment your dog’s body is in motion and follow up with a treat, but toss it a few steps away so your dog has to get up to eat it. Now you’re both ready to go through the entire sequence again, although your dog will probably work through the process quicker this time. That said, it’s natural to experience stops and starts at first, so don’t be surprised if your dog needs a quick refresher before he executes the entire roll sequence again.

Step 5: It’s always best to wait until a behavior is polished before you try to add the cue to it. Once your dog has streamlined the steps, you can begin attaching a word to the process, meaning he quickly moves from a standing position and through the roll sequence. To add the cue, say “roll over” right as he’s doing it, mark the behavior with the clicker or word, and give him a treat. This step makes the association between what your dog is doing and the cue that triggers it. Repeat this step a dozen times, saying the word as your dog performs the behavior to cement the association between the cue and the behavior.

Step 6: Try the request without any preamble once your dog has made the connection and ask your dog to roll over. Be ready to have a major party the first time he executes the entire sequence – lots of treats and tons of praise.

Other Tips to Get Your Dog Rolling Over in No Time

Remember to watch your body language as you work on this behavior. If you teach it while sitting on the ground, your dog might not understand what to do when you ask him to roll over while you’re standing up. Start the teaching process next to your dog on the ground, but switch your position to standing up as your dog becomes more familiar with the steps.

Using a small treat to lure your dog through the entire roll sequence is an option as well (envision holding the treat in front of your dog’s nose and making a circular motion), but many pet parents discover that dogs are excellent contortionists and wind up focusing on the food more than what their bodies are doing, which can slow the process. And some dogs can snag the treat without rolling over, particularly smaller pups. This can be frustrating for both teacher and student! Using shaping to teach the roll over trick allows your dog to set the pace and get rewarded quickly for his attempts, which makes the training process fun.

Tricks like roll over might seem silly, but there are real benefits beyond the obvious appeal. Allowing your dog the space to think creatively through shaping and working together as a team will strengthen your bond and make the two of you a hit any time you have an audience.

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Question: My dog sometimes pulls on pants and sleeves. I think she’s playing, because we let her do this as a puppy, but she doesn’t stop. What can I do to end this behavior?

Puppies will often mouth and tug at clothes. These antics may appear amusing and adorable, but as the puppy grows into a bigger, stronger and more focused adult dog, they can become worrisome or even dangerous. Prevention is always the best strategy — keep play directed toward toys instead of human skin, hair, or clothing.

Fortunately for you, old dogs can learn new tricks — and unlearn unwanted habits. To effectively resolve your dog’s mouthing behavior, it’s helpful to understand where the behavior comes from and how to offer alternative replacement behaviors that satisfy both you and your canine.

Why Puppy Mouthing Is Not Ok

One of the many things a puppy needs to learn is to be careful with his bite — but allowing a puppy to mouth human hands or people’s clothes will not teach this. Encouraging a dog to play by biting at human hands, skin, hair or clothes is not recommended. This type of play teaches your dog that people and their clothes make acceptable chew and tug toys.

Any and all mouthing of hands, skin or clothing should result in immediate removal of the hand or body part and a minute or two of no social interaction with the puppy. This teaches the puppy that putting teeth on a person is the end of playtime.

Dog owners often assume that a dog can discriminate between a situation where roughhousing or mouthing is acceptable and one where it’s not. This is too much to ask of most dogs. Instead, your dog is likely to instigate such play at inappropriate times, such as during a walk or with people for whom it’s especially concerning, like children. It’s easier for everyone, especially the dog, if the guesswork and confusion are removed by having consistent guidelines for how play and interactions occur.

Put a Stop to Puppy Mouthing

Consistency is the key to preventing any undesirable behavior. If a bad habit has already developed, you will need to limit your dog’s options for practicing the behavior in the future and offer desirable alternatives for him instead.

Here are 4 simple ways to put a stop to mouthing clothes in a puppy or adult dog:

Do not react to the mouthing. Part of the joy for dogs when they jump up is experiencing the person’s reaction. Pulling back and away from the dog creates resistance for a tug-toy type experience if the dog’s grabbing onto clothing. Screaming, shrieking or pushing the dog down or away are other reactions that feed energy into the already excitable dog. Instead, freezing in place and avoiding a reaction as much as is possible (standing still, looking down and away from the dog, remaining motionless and tucking hands under in a cross armed position) is more likely to cause loss of interest.

Teach “leave it” and “drop it.” Training your dog to refocus his attention before he picks something up with his teeth (“leave it”) or to let go of something he should not have in his mouth (“drop it”) can help put a stop to mouthing inappropriate objects. For both commands, start training with items that are low in value to your dog — something he will willingly leave or drop — and work up to more desirable items (in this case, clothing).

Reward success with a high value treat and follow up by redirecting to another activity, like a down stay or a fetching another toy. When he has mastered the “leave it” or “drop it” command, shift the reward so that it comes after the replacement behavior. That helps to reinforce the desired behavior and fade the mouthing behavior.

Replace mouthing with something more acceptable. I worked with a Pit Bull who greeted her family when they returned home by enthusiastically grabbing at their clothes. To defuse this behavior, her humans initiated an acceptable replacement activity as soon as they stepped in the door. These included playing “find it” with tossed treats, fast repetitions of sit and touch and asking the dog to go to her bed for a chew or to fetch a favorite toy.

Keep your dog busy. Many unwanted behaviors like mouthiness are a sign of an under-challenged dog. Use enrichment tools like food puzzles and focused games to channel mental and physical energy into acceptable outlets.

In some situations mouthing can be caused by other emotional situations like separation anxiety or a noise phobia. If you are concerned that your dog’s mouthing is more than just play and may relate to anxiety or aggression, seek help, starting with your veterinarian.

The post Tips to Stop a Dog From Tugging on Clothing appeared first on Great Pet Care.

According to professional cat trainers, you can absolutely clicker train a cat. “I use clicker training quite a lot with cats,” says Dr. Marci Koski, PhD, a certified feline behavior and training consultant who runs Feline Behavior Solutions. “It’s not just fun, it can also really help with behavior issues, too. It’s a really great tool.”

With proper clicker training, you can teach your cat tricks, guide them through agility courses, encourage them to visit the vet, and help calm their behavior around other animals. You just need to know how to tweak this popular training method so it’s cat-friendly.

What is Clicker Training for Cats?

Also known as “mark and reward,” clicker training relies on a small handheld clicker (which makes an actual “click” sound when pressed) to show your cat the exact moment they’ve done something you wanted them to do. Each time they hear the click, your cat will get a reward. 

Koski says that cats can be clicker trained at any age—in fact, hers was 10 years old when she trained her. Susan Bulanda, a certified member of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, agrees, saying kittens make ideal students since they’re naturally more active and curious.

Benefits of Clicker Training for Cats

“Clicker training can really open up a new way to communicate with your cat,” Koski says. A clicker lets you instantly acknowledge any good behavior—which is why she recommends getting a clicker with a strap. That way, you can keep it close at hand, so you’re always ready to reinforce whenever you “catch” your cat doing something good. 

Clicker training can also be used as a reward system for mental exercise, like learning new tricks, as well as any behavior you want to reinforce — from bravery in the car to clawing up a scratching post instead of a sofa.

Clicker Training for Cats: Before You Begin 

“Before you can clicker train a cat, you must find a very special treat that the cat loves,” recommends Bulanda. That’s because clicker training is all about rewarding behaviors immediately after marking them with a click. “You need to figure out what your cat is willing to work for,” Koski says. “That is often the hardest part.”

Most cats do well with a favorite treat, though Koski suggests finding a low-calorie variety since you’ll be handing out a lot of them. She recommends using a treat that comes in a squeezable tube for easy dispensing, small pieces of plain cooked chicken breast, or pieces of dry food. According to Bulanda, whatever treat you choose, it should be used only for clicker training.

It’s trickier with cats who aren’t food-motivated. Koski suggests rewarding those cats by brushing or petting them, engaging in active play with a favorite toy, or simply offering extra affection and attention.

You don’t need to carve out much time for a clicker training session. Each one should only last a few minutes. Just be sure to set up in a place with minimal distractions, where your cat already feels comfortable. And if you’re planning to teach tricks that require props, be sure to set those out ahead of time.

How to Clicker Train a Cat: 4 Easy Steps

1. Stock up on high-value treats or rewards. Once you figure out a reward that your cat is eager to work for, make sure you have plenty of it on hand when you’re ready to start training (in the case of treats) or easy access to it (in the case of non-food rewards, like toys).

2. Create a link between clicker and reward. When first starting out, there’s no need to wait for good behavior when you train. Simply click, give your reward, wait for your cat to eat it or enjoy it, and then repeat about six to 10 times for a total of about two minutes. 

Koski recommends doing this over a series of three sessions. “By then, your cat should understand that when they hear the click, a reward magically appears,” she says.

3. Click and reward to reinforce good behavior. Now you can start using the clicker to mark any positive behavior: when your cat gives you a high five, uses a scratching post, or walks by a cat frenemy without hissing and growling. If you do this consistently, your cat will learn what you want them to do. Just remember that the click itself is not a reward. It’s simply a signal that your cat did the right thing and a treat is coming immediately. Nor is it a command. You’ll still need to use words or hand signals as actual commands. And don’t forget to keep sessions short: a few minutes is plenty.

4. Switch up your rewards. Once your cat has mastered a certain command, you can continue reinforcing it on what Koski calls “a variable schedule.” There should still be a reward each time the positive behavior happens, but it doesn’t need to be a high-value treat each time. Sometimes it will, but other times it can be a less enticing treat or even just simple praise. 

“It’s the exact same psychology behind slot machines,” Koski says. Once you’ve linked a stimulus with a high-value reward, introducing different rewards unpredictably can be even more motivating because there’s always a chance your cat will “win” the prized reward.

Other Helpful Tips

As with any type of training, it may take some time for your cat to “get it.” Here are some important “dos and don’ts” to keep in mind when clicker training your cat to help you succeed. 

DO choose a clicker that works for your cat. A sharp, loud click that might work well for dogs could frighten some cats. Koski prefers rounded, flatter clickers because they tend to be quieter than the usual box type. If that’s still too loud for your cat, she suggests enclosing it in your palm to muffle the noise, holding it behind your back, or even putting it in a sock. If your cat still doesn’t like the noise, she says you can just click a pen or even try using a Snapple lid—just be consistent with whatever “click” you and your cat settle on.

If you’re trying to train multiple cats, DO start them out separately. Koski says it’s essential to teach each cat their own clicker association and commands individually. Otherwise, you risk sending mixed messages whenever you click. Once all the cats know their commands, you can work with more than one at a time.

DON’T use a clicker to punish unwanted behaviors or to get your cat’s attention. You want a simple, clear connection between behavior, click, and reward. Introducing any other elements muddles your message and weakens the feedback loop.

“At first the clicker is going to feel awkward, and there’s a lot to concentrate on,” Koski says. “Sometimes it feels like you need three hands. But hang in there. You’ll get more comfortable, and it’s fun to see success while opening a whole new line of communication between you and your cat.”

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Whatever the reason, you’ll find everything you need for crate training an adult dog here.

Can You Crate Train an Older Dog?

Fortunately, you can crate train a dog at any age. 

“It’s a myth you can’t teach an old dog new tricks,” says Fanna Easter, a fear-free certified dog trainer with Positive Pooch Behavior & Training in Texas. “You approach crate training for dogs the same no matter their ages.” 

Crate training is generally a simple process that starts with positive associations. 

Reasons for Crate Training an Older Dog

There are many reasons to crate train an older dog. A crate gives your pup a safe place that’s theirs, no matter what. People like to have their own spaces to retreat to, and dogs are no different. 

Besides offering a personal retreat, crate training an older dog can help with travel. Sometimes, a dog might need to be crated in a family member or friend’s home, or a hotel or vacation rental may require a dog guest to be crated when left alone.

Even a trip to the veterinarian can be easier when your older dog is crate trained, as dogs who need to stay overnight are often boarded in crates. Small dogs should also get used to traveling in a portable carrier for car rides and waiting in vet offices (crate training will help with this!). 

Another reason you may choose to crate train an older dog is if your veterinarian has recommended post-surgical confinement after a procedure and you want to give your dog a safe place to recover. 

Having an older dog who is comfortable in a crate can also be useful in an emergency situation. If you need to evacuate your family due to a natural disaster, having your dog trained to go into a crate on demand is efficient when seconds are critical.

Benefits of Crate Training an Older Dog

Overall, crate training an older dog has many benefits. These include:

• Providing a safe, den-like space for your dog to relax
• Safety and protection during traveling
• May protect your home while you’re at work or overnight while you’re asleep
• Can reduce separation anxiety if trained appropriately
• Offers a place to recover from medical procedures or surgeries
• Allows for separation from younger dogs or children when needed

How to Crate Train an Older Dog: A Step-by-Step Guide

Every dog is different, and some may take to a crate faster than others. “It takes at least 6 weeks to change behavior, and you’ll want to practice multiple times a day,” Easter says. Here’s how to get started:

Step 1: Choose a Crate

There are many types of dog crates, and one of the most critical parts of choosing a crate is making sure it’s large enough for your dog. Your dog should be able to stand up, lie down and turn around in the crate. 

Step 2: Slowly Introduce the Dog to the Crate

Once you’ve picked a crate, put it in your living room or another central location where your dog will be able to see and hear you while they are in their crate. Add some padding to make it more comfortable.

“The bottom tray or flooring of most crates can feel strange to a dog who has never stepped onto or into one,” says Jessica Hudson, an associate certified dog behavior consultant in Alabama. “Placing a towel or blanket in the bottom of the crate may make it more appealing and offer traction for the dog who may be more willing to go in and investigate.” 

Step 3: Watch Your Dog’s Reaction

Leave the crate door open and take things slow to gauge your dog’s reaction. The biggest tip for crate training an older dog is to keep it positive and refrain from rushing things. 

“Adult dogs have formed conclusions throughout their lives regarding their past experiences,” Hudson says. “Some dogs have never seen or been in a crate, so this new thing may be scary. [Others may] have a history of being punished and put into a crate so they may have formed negative feelings about them.“

If your dog seems resistant to the crate or shows no interest, try to determine why. Your dog may be afraid of it, the crate may be too small, or your dog may have had a bad experience with a crate in the past, Hudson says. If your dog still isn’t responding well to the crate once you’ve given it some time, she recommends changing to a different style crate.

Step 4: Create a Positive Association

Since you want your dog to associate the crate with good things, begin creating positive associations.

“Put your dog’s toys, a meal, or a pile of yummy treats inside the crate and close the door with the dog outside of the crate,” Hudson says. “This causes the dog to want the stuff inside. As your dog tries to get the items from the crate, open the door and walk away to let him enjoy his prize.” 

If that doesn’t work, focus on creating a positive feeling around the crate. For example, feed your dog beside the crate before feeding your dog inside the crate. Continue to leave the door open while your dog eats or plays in the crate. Choose a larger or different style crate if you’re not making progress. 

Step 5: Work Up to Closing the Crate Door 

As your dog gets more comfortable with the crate, you can close the door for a minute or two to start. “I put high-value treats in, the dog goes in, and I close the door,” Easter says. “As soon as they’re done eating the treat, I open the door.” 

Easter says to go at the dog’s pace. Work with them continually to build positive associations. 

Other Tips for Crate Training an Older Dog

Every dog is an individual, and you’ll want to modify training approaches based on their personality, history and response to the crate. 

“In regards to crate training, some breeds or mixes tend to love to burrow or be in dark spaces (Dachshunds come to mind). Others may prefer to sprawl out or be hot-natured (such as heavily coated breeds) and may get hot in airline-style crates,” says Hudson. “Training methods should always be rewarding for the dog.”

Pet parents may face some challenges when training an older dog instead of a younger one, so it’s essential to give it time. If you’re struggling or your adult dog seems unhappy being in their crate, a qualified, reward-based trainer can help. 

Like any training, it takes patience and encouragement to crate train your adult dog. Follow the steps above, and although it may take a bit longer to crate train your older dog than crate training a puppy, many adult dogs will come to love their crates.

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Learning how to train a dog not to jump on you isn’t only about good manners, but it can also help prevent injury. Plus, it’s helpful when you have guests come to visit.

Let’s dive in and learn how to curb this habit in all scenarios and train your dog how to calmly greet you, your family, and strangers. 

Why Do Dogs Jump?

Dogs jump for two main reasons—to greet you and say hello and because humans often reinforce jumping with excitement and affection. 

In a doggy world, dogs actually say hello to one another by sniffing each other’s muzzles and bottoms. So, initially, when you brought your new puppy home, he was being a polite pup and trying to say hello to you by sniffing your muzzle (i.e., face your face). But your face is so high that puppies tend to jump up to say hello. Which brings us to the second point, reinforcement.

It’s very likely that when you brought your new puppy or new dog home and they jumped up to say hello, you probably petted them, scratched them, and made a big, happy fuss. This response actually reinforces the act of jumping up. Now your dog has learned that jumping up gets him attention, which is exactly what he wants.

Now that you know the two main reasons a dog jumps up, let’s find a solution.

How to Stop a Dog From Jumping

The good news is you can teach your new puppy not to jump pretty quickly. For adult dogs, there will be a bit more training involved since he’s learned through repetition that jumping gets him attention. Yes, even negative attention is attention.

Train Your Puppy Not to Jump on You First

Start by training your puppy not to jump on you first before trying to tackle jumping on guests or others. It’s always important to teach your dog how to be successful with the least amount of distractions. 

Think about all the situations when your dog jumps up on you. Common scenarios include:

• When you come home
• Play games
• Put on his leash
• Dinnertime

Load up your pockets with some healthy and tasty dog treats—it’s time to get started.

Here’s the new rule for your puppy. When he jumps up, you pay no attention to him. He’s what I call “an invisible dog.” Don’t say “no,” don’t say “off.” Just act like he’s not there. You can even turn your back or step out of the room. 

When he puts all four paws on the floor, swiftly squat down to his level (remember, he wants to see your face) and pet him calmly. Don’t get too excited or pet too roughly, as this will encourage jumping and even mouthing. You can also give him a little treat if he keeps his paws planted on the ground and remains calm.

If—or I should say when—he jumps back up, immediately stand and repeat the invisible dog reaction. Pay no attention, and wait for him to put all four paws on the floor. Once he does, give him attention and a treat. This becomes your new routine. Four on the floor equals attention and a possible treat, jumping up equals an invisible dog. 

This also means that when you’re feeding your dog, putting on his leash, or any other time that he jumps up, he does not get what he was jumping up for. Wait for him to put four on the floor and then start to open the door, put on his leash, etc. 

You will want to plan extra time to allow this training to happen. It will take some effort on your part but, in the long run, you’re teaching your puppy that jumping doesn’t get him things and that keeping his paws on the floor leads to everything. 

All family members should follow this training method. Make sure everyone is on the same page. As your dog is learning various behaviors such as sit, you can start asking for a sit behavior versus four-on-the-floor behavior.

How to Stop a Dog From Jumping on People

When you’re consistently training your puppy not to jump up on you, then you want to start tackling your puppy not jumping up on friends or strangers. This can be a little more challenging, because not only will you be training your puppy, but you’ll also be training your friend! Before introducing your puppy to your friend, let them know about your puppy’s new training protocol. Explain to them that your puppy is learning that jumping up gets no attention.

Before your friend comes over to your house, attach your puppy’s leash to his harness. You also want to have some healthy and very rewarding treats in your pocket. Place some treats that aren’t as exciting as yours by the front door for your friend to grab. Explain to your friend that when they come over, they should put those treats in their pocket. 

As your friend enters the house, make a smoochy noise and get your puppy’s attention on you. Then, treat your puppy for paying attention to you. We want your puppy to be happy around strangers, but we want him to also learn that it’s about you—that you hold all the valuable goodies.

With your puppy on his leash, calmly walk over to your guest and tell your puppy to “go say hello.” At this point, have your guest calmly call your puppy over. If your puppy keeps four on the floor, your guest should give him a treat. If the puppy jumps up, your guest should ignore him. If this happens, call the puppy over to you and ask him to sit. Repeat this process and you will watch your puppy learn to put his paws on the floor to receive a treat from your guest.

As your puppy is receiving the treat from your guest, make it short and sweet. Your puppy gets the treat, a little hello, and then you call him back to you for a sit and treat. By doing this, you’re keeping your puppy’s energy level low and again reinforcing that you have all the real goodies. This helps teach your puppy that guests are good but not terribly exciting.

When your puppy or your dog is still learning how to be reliable at not jumping, it may be helpful to keep him on his harness and leash with you while your guest visits. Randomly throughout your visit, repeat the hello process. This can even be when your guest is sitting on the sofa or standing up going into another room. The more your puppy practices, the better he gets at keeping four on the floor.

How to Stop a Dog From Jumping on Strangers

Teaching your puppy not to jump on strangers is a little different scenario. When you are out walking your puppy, and you see a friendly person, don’t just rush over. When you are about five feet away from the stranger, ask them if you and your puppy can come over to say hello.

If the stranger says yes, grab some treats and start treating your puppy for good behavior. Slowly walk over to the stranger. This time, you’re not asking the stranger to help with your puppy’s training, but you’re going to squat down right away and get on your puppy’s level. While you’re down there, you’re going to slip your hand in your puppy’s harness while you’re giving your puppy some treats. The reason for this is that you want to make sure that your puppy doesn’t jump or scratch anyone you don’t know. 

Reward your puppy for keeping four on the floor by giving him a treat. Short and sweet. Thank the stranger and treat your puppy for walking away. Continue this process with as many people as you can during the learning stage. When your puppy starts to be really reliable at keeping four on the floor, then you can start considering not squatting down with your puppy.

How to Stop a Dog From Jumping Up On the Counter

Not only can dogs learn that jumping equals attention, they can also learn that jumping up on the counter leads to great prizes. When your dog is reinforced with things such as food, snacks, paper towels, napkins, or even your attention by jumping up on the counter, end table, or dining room table, you can understand why it’s such a common behavior.

Jumping up on the counter is often referred to as counter surfing. It actually can be a very easy behavior to change as long as everyone in the family is consistent with training. 

The rule is simple. Empty your counters and tables, and leave nothing that your dog can grab. If your dog jumps up, he can’t get a prize. If you and your family are consistent with clearing the counters and tables, your dog will figure out that jumping on the counter will not lead to anything exciting and the behavior should stop on its own. 

So, those counters and those end tables need to be clear during this learning stage. Eventually, as your puppy matures, you can start putting more things on your counters. But don’t do this too quickly. You want to ensure that your puppy has truly stopped trying to jump on the counters.

Teaching a Puppy Versus an Adult Dog  

Training a puppy not to jump up and training an adult dog not to jump up follow the same training principles. The difference is that puppies start with a pretty clean slate, so they can learn preferred behaviors more quickly. 

Adult dogs who have already had months or even years of learning that jumping equals good things take more time and patience when it comes to training. Pet parents have to focus on untraining a behavior versus simply training a new behavior from the start.

With good management, positive reinforcement, and the entire family being on the same page, both a puppy and an adult dog can learn how not to jump.

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Dogs don’t have hands, so they’ve learned to communicate in other ways. Chewing is a normal and necessary canine behavior, along with sniffing, tail wagging, and barking. Normal everyday chewing can quickly escalate into destructive behavior if your dog acquires a taste for chewing everything in her path. 

In a study on chewing behavior in dogs, 4 percent of respondents indicated their dogs needed medical treatment due to a problem with chewed material. Though chewing on objects was more common in younger dogs, other factors may cause an adult dog to chew on things inappropriately, too.  

Why Do Puppies Chew?

“All puppies go through a chewing/teething stage as they lose their puppy teeth and the adult teeth start coming in, similar to how human babies teethe,” says dog trainer Laurie C. Williams, owner and training director of Pup ’N Iron Canine Enrichment Center in Virginia. 

She explains the urge to chew will decrease when adult teeth start coming in, anywhere between 6 and 12 months of age. Puppies, like babies, chew to relieve the pain of new teeth trying to pop up through the gums. 

As they age, if puppies aren’t taught what is acceptable chewing behavior and what’s off limits, problems can develop. Puppies won’t suddenly realize it is poor etiquette to chew a couch, your favorite shoe, or household items—they must be taught.

Williams has been a dog trainer for over 35 years, and she recommends adding enrichment activities that fill a puppy’s innate desire to chew. These items include safe chew toys and raw bones. 

Why Do Dogs Chew?

Chewing is something dogs like to do, and it doesn’t stop after puppyhood. Dogs chew to cope with stress and boredom, but also to satisfy their inner desire to gnaw and chew on something.

When an adult or senior dog starts to chew, pet parents should investigate to determine the cause. Hopefully, your adult dog’s chewing isn’t anything major, but it’s always best to talk to your veterinarian about any sudden changes in behavior. 

Some common reasons adult dogs chew include a routine change, boredom (such as when kids return to school), lack of exercise or attention, and even separation anxiety.

“Your new leather shoes felt really great in their mouths, and the closet door was open, and in their mind, the shoes were a gift for them,” Williams says about dogs who love to chew on things. “Destructive behavior can manifest in chewing and tearing things up in frustration when a dog is anxious and left unsupervised.”

She indicates that you do not train a dog not to chew. Instead, you prevent a dog from being able to chew things that are off-limits. By not giving the dog access and providing direct supervision, the dog can be redirected with enrichment activities and appropriate outlets for chewing.

Risks of Dog Chewing

Aside from the inherent risks of chewing items like wires, cables, and wooden floors, there are other reasons dogs prone to chewing must be supervised. 

According to Tufts University, some dogs will chew and swallow almost anything. Oftentimes, pet parents don’t realize their dog ingested something until the pet shows outward signs of distress. Cummings School surgeon Dr. John Berg says some dogs are chronic repeaters, with the same animals having surgery to remove foreign objects over and over. 

Some of the more common dog chewing hazards include:

• Electrical wires that can lead to being shocked.
• Cords and strings that can strangle a dog.
• Some balls and dog toys that can be torn apart and swallowed.
• Rawhide bones that may damage teeth and lead to choking and intestinal obstruction.
• Sticks at the park may get stuck in a dog’s mouth or scrape the intestines if swallowed.

Harder to detect chewing hazards include:

• Bottles and cans of household cleaners can prove fatal if ingested.
• Cooked bones can splinter due to their brittle nature and cause intestinal perforation or obstruction.
• Clothing that can wrap itself around a dog’s intestines.
• Pennies dated after 1982, which are made with zinc and can lead to zinc toxicity if swallowed.

Always puppy-proof your house by thinking like your puppy. What does she have access to? Look at the world from her point of view. She has no idea the enticing wire is dangerous or that the bottle of wood glue can take her life. 

When a dog is fully grown, chewing temptations don’t immediately subside. Most dogs are lifelong chewers. Williams tells pet parents to keep doors shut to rooms with cables and wires and use dog gates to keep them out of areas with things they’ve tried to chew before.

Excessive Chewing: What Is Your Dog Telling You?

You walk in the door from a long day, and your dog has chewed up an armchair, the couch, a coffee table leg, or any other number of items in your home. 

If your dog is an excessive chewer, now isn’t the time to scold her or remind her what a bad girl she is. You need to catch your dog in the act of chewing and redirect her to a more appropriate behavior. Remember, dogs are innate chewers, so you want to show her what she can and should chew. 

Some reasons dogs chew excessively include:

• Separation anxiety
• Boredom
• Improper training
• Too much access to the home or apartment 
• For fun 

“If they are supervised and monitored, we can tell them ‘wrong’ when they try to chew something we don’t want them to and they will eventually learn what is off limits,” Williams says. “Some dogs take longer to learn this than others, and in those cases, when you can’t supervise, dogs should be crated, corralled in a specific dog-proof area, or kept in a safe room where they can’t destroy anything.”

Addressing the underlying reasons your dog is acting out is the key to stopping the behavior. Training tools like bitter apple spray or anti-chew dog spray are helpful but act as a bandage until the real problem is solved. 

How to Stop a Dog From Chewing Everything 

You might be feeling at your wit’s end. If your pooch just tore up your favorite designer slippers or chomped down on a leather chair, it’s all relative. Your pooch sees those items as big chew toys. 

Step by step, here’s how to stop dogs from chewing everything.

Step 1: Puppy proof or dog-proof your residence indoors and out. Chewing is an inherent behavior, so restrict access to the things your dog has no business chewing.

Step 2: Train the right way. Williams says dogs need to be supervised, shown the behavior we find desirable, and then we need to reinforce that behavior. When training your dog, you always want to use positive reinforcement of what she can and can’t chew on.

Step 3: Determine the source of the chewing. When does your dog chew on things? When she is alone? Does she need someone to spend time with her? Can you give her something appropriate to chew on?

Step 4: Get to the bottom of canine anxiety and frustration. Williams says if a dog is chewing and displaying destructive behavior because of anxiety and frustration, then definitely seek the help of an experienced dog trainer and/or canine behavior specialist.

Step 5: Give your dog chew toys and appropriate bones for limited periods of time, not all the time. Williams says you want them to feel special so dogs won’t become bored with those items. She suggests keeping special toys in the freezer, as the coldness adds more pleasure for the dogs to chew.

Step 6: Use bitter apple or chew deterrent sprays in areas you are unable to monitor. Follow manufacturer instructions closely. 

Step 7: Spend time with your dog bonding and playing together every day. Take your dog for a walk, try brain games or puzzle toys, give her one-on-one time, and devote yourself to this bonding seven days a week. Dogs get into trouble when they are bored, neglected, or forgotten. 

Step 8: Dogs are hard-wired to chew, so don’t try to break them of this behavior. Puppies are fun, so be sure to train your pup the right way and use positive, kind reinforcement to teach her right from wrong. 

Dog Chewing Prevention: Tips for Success

Training a dog not to chew is a marathon, not a sprint. Here are some helpful do’s and don’ts to stop your dog from chewing everything and give her a roadmap to success.

Do:

Have patience. Never spank or hit your dog for chewing. Redirect her with love, and do not make her fear you. Cut your puppy some slack and be the role model she needs you to be. 

Redirect your dog’s energy. Find appropriate outlets to channel your dog’s energy. Some dogs love agility, others love brain games, and a long walk will suffice for others. 

Create a no-chew space. Create a dog-proof area of your residence where you can let your chew fears disappear. If you feel a bit uneasy about this, install a doggy camera and watch her on a phone app.

Choose the right toys. Give her appropriate chew toys but monitor her chewing aggression. You don’t want her to destroy the toys and ingest pieces. 

Consult a trainer. Work with a positive reinforcement dog trainer to get to the bottom of deep-seated, ongoing chewing behaviors.

Don’t:

Leave your puppy for a long time. Do not leave your puppy or dog for an extended period of time without potty breaks or interaction. This is unfair and cruel to the pet.  

Use a crate as punishment. Do not use a kennel or crate as a form of punishment if you find an item your dog chewed on. This will create negative associations with the crate. 

Use dangerous toys or bones. Do not give your dog breakable toys or dangerous bones to chew on. It is best to supervise your dog whenever she is working on a new toy or treat.

Scold your dog. Do not chastise or scold your dog physically or emotionally.

Avoid exercise and stimulation. Do not blame the dog if training or exercise has been inadequate. A bored dog can become a destructive dog. 

With time, patience, and proper training, puppies who chew everything won’t take that pattern into their adulthood. Adult dogs who chew may need more time, attention, and laser-focused positive reinforcement so she knows what to chew and what to ignore.

The post How to Stop a Dog From Chewing Your Stuff appeared first on Great Pet Care.

That said, you might want to keep your dog off of the couch, which can be tricky, especially if they assume they are welcome there. 

If you’ve previously tried to keep your dog off the couch or other furniture without success, here are some tips to teach your dog to sit and rest elsewhere. 

Keeping Dogs Off Furniture: The Challenges

If your pup likes to jump up on the couch, they could be doing it for a few reasons.

“[The couch] is where owners spend their time, and dogs often want to spend time closer to them,” says Dr. Melissa Bain, professor of clinical animal behavior service at UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine. “Additionally, if [your dog is] not given a comfortable spot to lay down on and be rewarded for it, the obvious choice would be the couch.”

Simply put, dogs like to be comfortable, and they like to be near their people. While it’s flattering to know your dog wants to be as close to you as possible, you might not appreciate the dog hair, scratches and space they take up when they’re on the couch. 

Tips for Keeping Dogs Off the Couch

If keeping your dog off the couch feels like a losing battle, don’t lose heart. Whether you’re dealing with a puppy or an older dog, there are ways to make sure they stay off the sofa for good. 

Here are some suggestions from Dr. Mary R. Burch, a certified applied animal behaviorist.

Tips for Keeping Puppies Off the Couch

Tip #1: Manage the environment by covering the couch. Creating a physical boundary for your puppy will keep them from getting on the couch.

“To keep puppies off the couch until they are trained, you can cover the couch with newspapers or other objects,” says Burch. “Another way to manage the environment when you aren’t home is to use baby gates, a crate or keep the puppy in a room where furniture is not a problem.”

Tip #2: Provide an appropriate alternative to the couch. Your pup is likely trying to get on the couch for a cozy place to chill, so providing them with a comfy alternative will help them stay off.

“If your puppy is looking for a cozy place to snooze, be sure to provide the puppy with a comfortable bed,” says Burch. “When you are home, you can put the puppy near the couch, so the puppy can have both a comfortable bed and be close to you at the same time.”

Tip #3: Train, train, train. Implement behavioral commands and basic training skills as soon as possible. This can include teaching the “off” command – tell your puppy “off” and reward her for getting off the couch with a treat, Burch says. You can also redirect the puppy to an acceptable place, like a dog bed, and reward her with a treat. Be consistent about keeping your puppy off the couch so that they understand the rules.

Tips for Keeping Adults Dogs Off the Couch

The same tips that apply to puppies will work for teaching older dogs to stay off the couch too. 

“As your puppy gets older, one thing you can do is teach ‘up’ and allow the dog to get on the couch when you invite them,” Burch says. “Of course, your dog will have already learned ‘off.’”  

Being on the couch can be a special reward for your dog, but you may want to have a cover for the couch and restrict your dog to one piece of furniture (e.g., the couch is okay, but great-grandmother’s antique chair is not). 

“Dogs are different, and you may need to try [a variety of] solutions,” says Burch. “For example, one common recommendation is to cover the couch with newspapers, but some dogs will happily take a nap on the papers if they are on the couch.”

Couch Deterrents for Dogs

If you want to be successful in keeping your dog off the couch, it comes down to consistency.

“All family members must be consistent in either allowing the dog on the couch or not allowing the dog on the couch,” says Bain. “Intermittent reinforcement and inconsistencies are why these behaviors can be hard to change. It’s like a slot machine–you don’t win every time, but when you do, it’s great!”

If your goal is to keep your dog off the couch, try one or a combination of these deterrents:

Physical barriers: put up a physical barrier, like a gate or a crate.

Preventative items: put something on the couch to prevent jumping. Homemade items in addition to newspapers can include boxes and tinfoil, or there are commercial products like The Couch Defender that looks like an agility tunnel or The Couch Guard, which is plastic with pieces that stand up.

Sprays: Dog deterrent sprays like bitter apple can keep dogs off furniture but can be confusing for dogs if you occasionally allow them on the couch. 

How to Protect Your Couch When You’re Not Home

It’s impossible to keep your eyes on your pup 24/7, especially when you aren’t home. To keep your dog from taking advantage of your absence, consider putting them in a crate or other gated area.

“Leave your dog at home in a confined, dog-proof area such as a designated room or crate,” says Marny Nofi, senior manager of the ASPCA behavioral sciences team. “Dogs shouldn’t be crated for long periods and should get a potty break and exercise session every four hours.” If you have a puppy under 6 months old, they’ll need shorter periods in the crate to ensure they don’t have an accident. 

If you decide to confine your dog when you aren’t at home, make sure they get plenty of exercise and quality time with you when they’re not in their crate.

If a crate isn’t an option, you can also create more physical boundaries when you aren’t at home. “Management is the way to approach it. Keep the doors to that room closed. Flip up the couch cushions,” says Bain.

And if you’re still having issues with keeping your dog off the couch, you may want to consult a professional behaviorist to help you and your dog work through the behavior.

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This behavior is called resource guarding in dogs, and it’s shocking when a canine friend you know shows a side you’ve never seen, especially when it’s an aggressive response directed at you. 

Being on the receiving end of guarding behaviors can be scary, and these behaviors can escalate and become dangerous. That said, resource guarding in dogs is actually a common training issue and can be managed effectively if treated properly.  

What is Resource Guarding in Dogs?

Resource guarding is a dog’s tendency to freeze, growl, snap or bite when they believe that something they value is threatened. And, believe it or not, it is a normal canine behavior. 

In the wild, staking claims over food and turf can mean the difference between life and death. 

Occasional resource guarding behavior between dogs in multi-dog homes is typical and often ritualized to the point where the behaviors are challenging for pet parents to detect. For example, a dog chewing on a bone might briefly raise his lip to expose his teeth mid-chew if a sibling dog gets too close. This subtle display is usually enough to prevent a full confrontation.

Signs of Resource Guarding in Dogs

Resource guarding exists on a spectrum, both in terms of the behaviors a dog uses to try to establish ownership and the types of items dogs opt to guard. 

Some dogs are drawn to guard more than just consumables like food and bones. A possessive dog might guard anything from empty food bowls, toys, beds, specific locations in the home, and people to items that might not seem valuable to us, like tissues, wrappers, dirty diapers, or even laundry.

A dog’s possessive behaviors aren’t always obvious at first and might escalate as the perceived threat increases, meaning a dog’s frozen posture over a food bowl might shift into growling and air snapping as the person gets closer.

Resource guarding behaviors in dogs can include:

• Repositioning the body over the item or running away with it
• Freezing in place
• Hard staring
• Faster consumption of the item they are guarding
• Growling 
• Raised lip
• Lunging or air snapping
• Biting

What Causes Resource Guarding in Dogs?

While there’s a genetic component to resource guarding, it’s not the sole reason why dogs display the behavior. Any dog can develop guarding behaviors, from an adult dog with adopted at a shelter to a purebred puppy brought home from a breeder at 8 weeks old. 

People used to believe that dogs with a history of food insecurity might be more driven to resource guard, but even dogs that have always had a regular feeding schedule can develop resource guarding issues. A 4-year study by the ASPCA found that underweight dogs in a shelter environment were no more likely to be aggressive over food than well-fed dogs.

Some dogs become possessive when given a novel item, like a high-value bone. Special chews, like pig ears, can accidentally trigger guarding reactions in dogs that haven’t displayed the behavior before. Shifts in the household, like the addition of a new dog, might also set off guarding. Dogs dealing with an undiagnosed medical issue or pain might also resort to guarding behaviors when they feel threatened. 

How to Help Resource Guarding in Dogs

Before beginning a training program, it’s important to assess the severity of your dog’s guarding behavior. Pet parents who are worried about the intensity of their dog’s reactions should contact a positive reinforcement trainer or veterinary behaviorist for help setting up a behavioral modification program. This is especially beneficial if there are small children in the home or if the dog guards a variety of unpredictable items. 

One of the easiest ways to deal with resource guarding in dogs is to manage your home environment to prevent the behavior from occurring. If your dog’s bowl is in a high-traffic area, relocate it to a quiet spot so that he can eat in peace. If you’re concerned about family compliance, whether from a sibling dog or humans, feed your dog behind a gate to avoid mistakes and put his bowl away after he finishes. Keep potential high-value items like laundry or shoes out of reach to prevent accidental guarding situations. 

Instead of giving your dog chews that trigger a possessive reaction, provide bones that your dog won’t guard or only give extra special chews in spaces like his crate where you know he won’t be interrupted. 

Counterconditioning for Dogs

While managing your dog’s environment is a good place to start, it isn’t an option for every household. 

The goal of training for resource guarding in dogs is to change your dog’s emotional response through a process called counterconditioning. This process should make it so that your dog no longer considers a person (or animal) near a treasured item a threat.

Here’s how counterconditioning works:

Step 1: Make a list of everything your dog guards in order of preference. Then determine your dog’s “buffer zone,” or the point where he won’t react to your presence when he has a guardable item. This zone will be your starting point for training with your dog’s least guardable item.

Step 2: Next, load up on savory, high-value goodies. Opt for something potent, like cut up hot dogs, bits of cheese, or cubes of chicken.

Step 3: The longer a dog has possession of an item, the more “ownership” he has, so start the process right as he begins interacting with the item, whether he’s eating from his food bowl or gnawing a bone.

Step 4: Approach your dog and stop outside of the area that triggers a reaction, then toss a few pieces of the special treat so they land close to him, then walk away.

Step 5: Repeat a few times, then wrap up the training session.

Step 6: Continue this process whenever your dog has the guardable item (make sure not to trigger guarding behavior when not in a training scenario) and watch for him to have a positive reaction to your approach, like looking at you with a happy expression as you take a step towards him or relaxed tail wag. This is the point where your dog is starting to make a connection between you getting closer to something he values and the delivery of a delicious snack and is the most important part of the process!

Step 7: Once your dog is consistently showing a relaxed and happy response to your approach and is taking treats from a variety of different directions from outside of his buffer zone, gradually begin to move closer in consecutive training sessions, literally one step at a time. If your dog reverts to guarding behavior at any point, go back to working at the distance where he’s still showing a happy response to you. 

Your goal is to be able to walk up to your dog’s bowl and drop a few special goodies into it without provoking anything other than an excited tail wag. 

Sudden Resource Guarding in Dogs

Sudden resource guarding in dogs could be due to the introduction of a new high-value bone or toy that your dog values more than anything he’s ever had. For example, a dog that’s only been given rubber chewable bones might be more likely to guard a raw meaty marrow bone. 

Unexpected guarding could also indicate a medical condition, like undiagnosed pain, or it could be a symptom of cognitive decline in senior dogs. If your dog exhibits sudden resource guarding, consider scheduling a veterinary checkup to rule out any medical issues.

Training Basics to Help Avoid Resource Guarding 

It’s possible to safeguard against resource guarding using training techniques to help dogs understand that people being close to treasured resources are a good thing. 

For example, dropping special treats into your puppy’s bowl while he eats is a simple way to reinforce the notion that people approaching his bowl during mealtime equals extra deliciousness. You can also teach your dog to “drop it” or “trade” the high-value goodie for another treat or toy. Work on these lessons during play so that your dog learns that relinquishing something he values means he’ll get a special treat and get the toy back as well. Then start using the cues in real-life scenarios once your dog has generalized the behaviors and will do them happily when you ask.

The post Resource Guarding in Dogs: How to Fix It appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Working a dog’s mind is just as important as working the body, and brain games are a great way to do it. And the best part about playing brain games for dogs? Tapping into your dog’s unique cognitive abilities is important enrichment that is easy to do!

What is Brain Training for Dogs?

While standard obedience school can be considered brain training for dogs, true brain training engages your dog’s mind in a slightly different way. The dog training exercises in standard obedience training have a specific goal: your dog learns foundation behaviors like walking politely on a leash, holding a stay, or coming when called. 

With brain training the goal is to encourage your dog to think creatively, problem solve, and have fun. Steve Dale, certified animal behavior consultant, pet radio host, and co-editor of Decoding Your Dog (authored by members of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists), suggests that brain training has numerous benefits, including:

Alleviating boredom.

• Giving the opportunity to engage in breed-specific behaviors, like digging or searching for resources.
• Providing an outlet for anxiety.
• Helping to slow the cognitive changes associated with aging.

In addition to behavioral benefits like preventing inappropriate behaviors and keeping your senior sharp, brain training is a fun way to strengthen the bond with your dog. If you’re playing the right kinds of brain training games with your dog, you both should be having fun!

Fun Brain Games for Dogs to Try at Home

While there are many commercially available games for dogs, you can DIY cognition activities as well. Try the following simple dog brain training activities with your pup. 

Play Hide the Toy

Teaching your dog to look for a hidden toy taps into their natural scenting ability and it is a fantastic way to burn through excess energy inside the house or out. To begin teaching it, place your dog in a “stay” or have a helper gently hold him. Let him watch you place a toy in an obvious spot a few feet away, like on the edge of a chair, then tell your dog to “find it” in an excited voice and encourage him to grab the toy. 

Play together with the toy for a few minutes, then hide the toy in a new obvious spot and repeat the process. 

After a few repetitions your dog will start to figure out what “find it” means, at which point you put him in a different room and do a “blind find” by hiding the toy where he can’t see it. Because this game makes your dog rely only on his sense of smell, he’ll be happily worn out at the end of a few rounds!

Make an Indoor Dig Pit

Many dogs love to dig but don’t get enough opportunity to do so. Creating a safe spot to engage in this instinctual behavior is a simple way to address that urge and give your pup’s brain a workout at the same time. 

To make a dig pit simply use a box with low sides or a plastic storage container and fill it with dog-safe materials like rags cut into strips or cardboard paper towel rolls and bathroom tissue rolls cut into a variety of lengths. Make sure to select filler material that your dog won’t want to eat! 

Then scatter treats or part of your dog’s daily meal ration inside and mix up the filler, or if your dog is toy-driven, hide balls and toys inside. Many toy-driven dogs will enjoy play breaks with you when they uncover them.

Teach Your Dog to Spin

A great way to work your dog’s brain is introducing trick training, which is low-pressure fun-for-fun’s-sake training. “Spin” is one of the easiest (and cutest!) tricks to teach and it doesn’t take long for pups to master it. 

To begin the process, place a small treat in front of your dog’s nose so that he has four paws on the ground and doesn’t have to jump up to smell it. Trace a halo-like circle in the air above your dog’s nose so that he follows the treat lure slowly. Then, give your dog the goody once he’s completed the circle. Dogs that are reluctant to follow the lure might need to get the treat at the midpoint as well as at the completion.

Repeat the process, making the luring motion quicker with each repetition.

When your dog is happily moving in a circle keep the treat in your pocket and make the circle gesture more subtle with each repetition, rewarding after each attempt. Continue until you can twirl a single finger above your dog’s head as if stirring a drink. When your dog is responding to the subtle hand signal you can add a verbal cue like “spin” by saying the word right before you begin to make the gesture.

Teach Your Dog to Focus

A fun brain game that also has real world applications is teaching your dog a “watch” cue to capture eye contact. Not only is this skill fun to practice, it has many real world applications, like helping to refocus anxious dogs by getting them to look at you instead of potential stressors.

It helps to use a clicker to teach this behavior since the initial steps move quickly. To begin simply toss a treat on the ground near your dog and after she eats it and looks up at you hoping for another one, click her for her attention then then throw another treat. Repeat this process, always using the clicker to mark the moment your dog turns to look at you. 

Next, ask for your dog to do more. Wait to click until your dog looks up at your eyes, then toss the treat. Extend the length of time your dog holds your gaze by waiting a few seconds before you click and treat. Start naming the behavior by saying “watch” right as your dog swings her eyes up to meet yours. 

Practice the behavior in different parts of your house and outside to help generalize it, then try using it in a real-world scenario like during a walk. 

Other Ways to Support Your Dog’s Brain Health

Healthy brain function comes from a healthy lifestyle, and diet is a big part of the equation. Feeding your pup a premium dog food with real meats as the primary ingredients and no filler or additives contributes to overall wellness from the inside out. 

Additionally, puzzle toys for dogs that keep dogs busy make for great brain boosters when you don’t have time to play with them. Hiding treats in the toys and encouraging dogs to solve the puzzle and find the reward will help boost brainpower.

You can also help to support your dog’s brain health with veterinarian formulated supplements that use natural ingredients to promote cognitive wellness. 

Keeping your dog’s mind active, engaged and supported will help to ensure a happy and healthy dog well into his golden years!

The post Brain Training for Dogs: Fun Exercises to Try appeared first on Great Pet Care.

French Bulldogs pack a ton of personality into a small, sturdy package, which makes them the perfect dogs for people looking for a lively and charming companion. 

Are French Bulldogs Easy to Train?

While this clownish breed might have a reputation for being stubborn, it’s not hard to raise a well-trained French Bulldog. The reality is that they’re clever dogs that are willing to work when given the right kinds of motivation. 

Like all dogs, French Bulldogs thrive when trained with dog-friendly positive reinforcement methods, using food and fun to achieve training goals. French Bulldogs are people-oriented dogs that are happy to learn new lessons and can master the full suite of polite puppy behaviors.

French Bulldog Training: When to Start

The best time to begin French Bulldog puppy training is now! Like all dogs, it’s best to begin working on foundation behaviors during puppyhood, but even untrained adult Frenchies can master good manners. 

French Bulldog puppies as young as eight weeks old can start learning basic obedience cues like sit, down, coming when called, and greeting without jumping up. But it’s never too late to begin French Bulldog training. 

While adult Frenchies might be more set in their ways, positive training methods and a pocket full of treats can sway even the most stubborn of students.

French Bulldog Training Tips and Advice

French Bulldogs can be stubborn and high energy, so make sure to follow these tips when working on training exercises with your Frenchie friend.

Keep it Quick

When considering how to train a French Bulldog remember that short, upbeat training sessions are the key to success. Brief training sessions help to keep your French Bulldog’s focus on you, and having fun together while you train will make the lessons feel like a game instead of school.

Treat Wisely

Short, stocky French Bulldogs put on weight easily, so training treats should be small. Using a “trail mix” of your dog’s daily food ration combined with tiny, savory treats is a safe way to provide rewards for a job well done that won’t impact your Frenchie’s waistline.  

Safety First

Frenchies have short snouts, which means they’re prone to breathing difficulties. Avoid overexertion during training, particularly in warm weather. Always provide fresh water, especially when working outside, and take frequent breaks if your French Bulldog starts to pant heavily during training.

How to Potty Train a French Bulldog

Although French Bulldogs have a reputation for being challenging to potty train, Frenchie parents don’t have to follow special rules to end up with a housetrained companion. Like all dogs, potty training success requires supervision, patience, and rewards for good potty choices. Here’s how to help your French Bulldog succeed.

Stick to a Routine 

No matter your Frenchie’s age, keeping a predictable schedule will help make potty training straightforward. Scheduling meals, walk times, play and rest, and the resultant potty trips provides your dog with a predictable daily routine. Keeping up routines will help you predict when your dog needs to head outside.

Remember that your Frenchie will have to potty after meals, after vigorous play sessions (and younger pups might need to take a break during play), after naps and after coming out of the crate. There’s no such thing as too many potty trips during the early stages of training! 

Supervise at All Times

Supervision is key when it comes to figuring out how to potty train a French Bulldog. Some pups try to sneak off to a different room to relieve themselves so keeping an eye on your Frenchie enables you to pick up on his “gotta go” body language so you’ll know when it’s time to head outside. Setting up baby gates to reduce your dog’s potential “strike zone” and using a crate when you’re not around to supervise will also help to speed the potty training process.

Go Outside With Your French Bulldog

Always accompany your Frenchie outside when it’s potty time. Not only can you confirm that he actually went (remember, dogs can get easily distracted and forget to go!), you can also reward him immediately after he finishes to help reinforce that outside potty is a very good thing.

How to Crate Train a French Bulldog

Most dogs appreciate having a safe space where they can relax and a well-sized crate taps into this natural denning instinct. Your French Bulldog’s crate should be sized so that your dog can comfortably stand up, turn around, and lie down. 

Introduce your French Bulldog to the crate slowly, giving him ample opportunities to hang out inside before you close the door and leave for the first time. Feeding meals in the crate and giving treat-stuffed busy toys inside can help speed the acclimation process.

The crate should be kept in a part of the house that’s away from the hustle and bustle, but not so far away that your Frenchie feels isolated when he goes inside. Remember, while the crate is a wonderful tool during the house training process, over-crating isn’t fair to your dog. Leaving a dog crated during an eight-hour workday is unkind and can lead to health issues like urinary tract infections.

When to Consider Professional Training for Your French Bulldog

If you start to feel frustrated with your French Bulldog or get the sense that the stubborn gene is especially strong in your pup, it’s a good idea to seek outside training help. 

A certified dog trainer can help you create a training plan that will set you and your Frenchie up for success, and you’ll end up with a well-mannered buddy for life.

The post How to Train a French Bulldog appeared first on Great Pet Care.

“I really just want everyone to have the same relationship with their dog that I have with mine (which is pretty awesome),” says Jenn Fiendish, a certified dog trainer and owner of Happy Power Behavior and Training in Portland, Oregon.

We asked Fiendish and eight other certified dog trainers to share the things that they wish all pet parents knew about their work and their profession. 

Here’s what they had to say:

Not Every Dog Trainer is Qualified 

Before choosing your dog trainer, make sure to do your research. Not every person who claims to be a dog trainer is actually qualified to do the job. 

Dog training is not regulated by the government and doesn’t have any formal licensing requirements. “Literally anyone can call themselves a dog trainer and charge people money for it,” says Ben Lee, a trainer and certified obedience instructor who owns Concerned Canines in Pensacola, Florida. 

A trainer who’s not current on science-based techniques can cause more harm than good. “It often leads to the use of harsher training methods which have been proven to increase anxiousness, fear, and aggression,” says Fiendish.

Titles Don’t Always Translate to Ability

Certification labels can be misleading, says Robin Bennett, a certified dog trainer from Stafford, Virginia. “Trainers who use titles and labels should be asked to explain what they mean.” 

She recommends asking about educational credentials and an independent, third-party certification from an organization like Certification Council of Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT). 

“The CPDT-KA, CPDT-KSA, and the CBCC-KA mark shows that the professional has demonstrated competency and is accountable for abiding by the CCPDT Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics, but consumers need to make sure the individual is a match for them and their dog,” says Bradley Phifer, CCPDT’s executive director.

Techniques Have Changed Over the Past 15 Years

As we continue to learn more about dogs, training techniques will evolve—which is why finding a trainer committed to continuing education is recommended. The industry used to couple “balanced” training (rewarding good behaviors and punishing bad ones) with dominance theory, where the human holds a higher position than the dog, says Fiendish, who also serves as executive director of the Society of Veterinary Behavior Technicians. 

Today’s dog trainers use positive reinforcement along with learning theory, which focuses on understanding how animals learn, then applying that knowledge to training, Fiendish says. 

“This is important as the use of outdated training methods (using force and punishment) has been proven to cause increases in fear and anxiety in dogs, a decrease in positive relationships between dogs and their owners, and an alarming increase in aggressive behaviors,” she says. 

Veterinary Behaviorists and Dog Trainers Are Different 

Dog trainers work to resolve non-aggressive behaviors like separation anxiety, or unwanted ones, like re-soiling the same expensive rug or jumping on strangers. 

“If your dog is having moderate to severe problems with their behavior, like anxiety, fearfulness, and aggression, it is best to see a veterinary behaviorist,” says Fiendish. “They will be able to work with you on behavioral modification training as well as the use of supplements or medications that can be helpful.” 

Veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians who have been board-certified by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. Ask your veterinarian if you’re unsure which type of professional to consult.

Training Should Ideally Start When Your Dog is Young

While dog trainers can help you solve problems for canines of any age, working with a certified positive reinforcement trainer for at least the first year of your dog’s life can be extremely beneficial, says Nikki Finn-Loudenslager, certified dog trainer and behavior consultant, and founder of On The Right Track Professional Dog Training in Navajo County, Arizona. 

“Preventive training is much more effective and fun, compared with trying to fix bad behaviors that are driving you and your family crazy,” she says.

Pet Parents Are a Key Part of the Training Process

A trainer can teach a dog new skills and help modify behaviors, but pet parents have to be willing to actively participate, says Phifer, who also runs his own training business. “In most cases, owners have to change their behavior in order for their dog’s behavior to change.” 

Successful dog training also requires a time commitment. “Be prepared to practice 10 to 20 minutes per day in between training lessons with your dog trainer,” says Bennett.

Punishment Doesn’t Work on Dogs

Negative training has the potential for unintended consequences, says Brenda Belmonte, a certified dog trainer who owns Two Paws Up Dog Training, Inc. in Lake Bluff, Illinois. 

“While it may seem normal to want to punish a dog for barking, the use of bark collars, throw cans, or other punitive devices can create increased anxiety for many dogs,” she says. “This can result in a dog who becomes afraid of people, afraid of the person applying the aversive, or result in defensive aggression.” 

Reinforcing Good Behaviors Is Essential

Dogs repeat behaviors that have been rewarded, says Fiendish. “For instance, if I reward my dog with a treat for sitting, he will sit again because the treat is rewarding to him,” she says. “However, if my dog barks at me and I tell him No, don’t bark, he will bark again because my attention is rewarding to him.” 

Don’t Overlook Enrichment

Behavior problems can sometimes be solved or minimized with enrichment, says certified dog trainer Anna Wong, owner of Mutts Have Fun: Training You and Your Dog in Oakland, California. One form of enrichment is exercise. 

“But exercise might not be enriching for all dogs, so it shouldn’t be the only way they engage with the world,” she explains. “Enrichment also includes training, doing natural dog things like digging and chewing, solving food puzzles, playing with toys, engaging in canine sports, and being social with people and sometimes, other dogs.”

Understand Your Breed’s Limitations

It’s difficult to train genetics out of a dog, says Finn. “For example, Terriers are bred to dig so if you really love your manicured lawn, then they may not be a good match. They also tend to be quite barky,” she says. “Trying to convince a breed that was bred to guard to happily accept strangers in your home may take more time than you’re prepared to give.” 

There Are No Quick Fixes

“There is no magic word that is going to stop your dog from jumping on house guests. What you need to do is practice, practice, practice,” says Lee. 

Most quick fixes result in suppression of normal dog behavior, adds Belmonte. “Clients need to understand that dogs have basic needs and complex emotional needs, both of which need to be taken into consideration when training.” 

Aim for Short Spurts of Training

“Work in a few minutes of training with your pup each day and always be on the lookout to catch the dog being good, then reinforce that behavior,” says Wong. Look for opportunities to train during the course of a normal day, like during a stretch or commercial break, she recommends. 

Learning Your Dog’s Body Language is Important

Trainers say body language is how dogs communicate, so knowing what those behaviors mean can help you better support your dog and form a lasting bond. 

“It’s such an important part of establishing a dialog with our dogs,” says Wong. “I encourage all dog parents to learn about canine body language and spend time observing their dog’s body language.”

Dog Training Should Be Fun

Training should be fun, says Laura Hills, owner of The Dogs’ Spot, based in North Kansas, Missouri. “It should be quality time spent with your dog, which will maintain and deepen your relationship,” she says. “When people put in the time and effort to build a relationship with their dog, their dog will be more likely to do what they need them to do when they need them to do it.”

How to Be the Best Dog Training Client

Successful outcomes are more likely when the trainer and pet parent work together as a team. Here are a few recommendations to help you become a good client and get the most out of your pet’s training sessions.

Bring Tasty Treats to Your Sessions

“Bring very small, very high value treats with you to class. Save the vegetables and dry dog kibble for low distraction environments,” says Hills. “You’ll need higher value reinforcement in training classes as the environment will likely be more distracting than home.”

Be Ready to Describe your Dog’s Behavior

To help troubleshoot problem areas, take notes on your dog’s behavior, or preferably create a video to share with the trainer, Wong offers. 

“When describing the problem behavior, include a description of its frequency and duration, as well as what immediately precedes and follows the behavior,” she says.

Be Committed to Practicing at Home

Behavior modification requires repetition, consistency and patience, says Finn. “I generally see my clients once a week for a one-hour session, and then leave them with training to do in between,” she says. “It is easy to spot clients who have been working diligently throughout the week and those who just rely on their weekly sessions for progress.”

Be Patient With Your Trainer

Trainers have personal lives, too, says Khara Schuetzner, who owns The Doggie Spot in Shawnee, Oklahoma. “If we don’t respond right away to calls or emails there is a reason. We could be with our own families, training someone else’s dog, or training our own dog,” she explains. “We work odd times. Some of us work early hours, overnight hours, and late evening hours. Be patient with us.” 

The post 14 Things Dog Trainers Want You to Know appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While the initial steps of choosing and using a harness might feel daunting, the payoffs are worth it. Dog harnesses can help make walks a pleasant, pain-free experience for dogs of all ages and sizes.

Let’s walk through tips for picking out the right harness for your dog, how to put a harness on a dog, and advice for making sure you have the perfect fit.

Dog Harness Benefits

A collar is a fine choice for dogs that walk politely on leash without pulling. However, dogs that are tough to control on walks or at risk for injury due to their shape or size can benefit from wearing a comfortable harness instead.

A harness can prevent health concerns for dogs with potential breathing issues, like brachycephalic breeds such as French Bulldogs or Pugs, since any leash tension is distributed instead of concentrated around the dog’s neck.

Plus, a harness designed specifically to reduce pulling can make walks more manageable for people with strong dogs.

Types of Dog Harnesses

Because there are so many options, trying to pick the right type of harness for your dog can feel overwhelming, but choosing the best harness for your dog comes down to a few factors. Things you should consider when choosing a type of harness include:

The desired outcome. Do you want to decrease pulling? Or are simply concerned with your dog’s comfort? A harness doesn’t automatically reduce pulling, which means you may need a no-pull dog harness.

Your dog’s body type. If you have a barrel-chested breed, some harness options might not fit.

Your dog’s size and handling tolerance. Some dogs don’t appreciate the type of touching required to put on a step-in harness or a snug-fitting, over-the-head harness.

Once you’ve determined your dog walking needs you can begin to refine your dog harness choices:

No-Pull Dog Harness

These types of dog-friendly harnesses are specifically engineered to reduce leash pulling. Most reduce pulling through a combination of gentle pressure points around the legs and the positioning of the rings where the leash attaches.

It’s important to note that some dogs are still able to pull while wearing a no-pull harness, and some learn to outsmart these harnesses as they become familiar with the sensation.

Fashion Dog Harness

If you’ve got a standard size dog that’s a polite leash walker, you can focus on fashion when it comes to selecting a harness. These colorful options can be either over the head or step-in harness styles, and range from traditional ribbon on nylon straps to breathable mesh material. The leash can attach either at the chest or between the shoulder blades. Fashion harnesses are cute, but they don’t prevent pulling.

Special Fit Dog Harness

Dogs with unique shapes, like barrel-chested breeds (Great Danes and Pit Bulls) and short-legged Dachshunds, can be tougher to fit into traditional harnesses. Some options might be perfect around the waist but too tight in the chest area, and some slip-on options might not even fit over the dog’s head. Harnesses built with specific breeds in mind can accommodate their unique shapes.

Supportive Dog Harness

Senior dogs or dogs recovering from surgery might need extra help navigating stairs or going outside for a potty break and a supportive rehabilitation-style harness can make the job easier for both ends of the leash. These harnesses support and stabilize the dog’s front end in a way that’s comfortable for the dog and ergonomic for the pet parent.

Dual Purpose

Some harnesses can function as both a safe car restraint and a walking harness once you arrive at your destination. While many regular harnesses can be modified for use in the car, seat-belt type harnesses are safer because they’re crash-tested and have metal buckles to keep from breaking in the case of impact.

How to Measure Your Dog for a Harness

Unfortunately, dog harness sizing isn’t universal, which means that one company’s XS could be another company’s M. That’s why it’s important to note the manufacturer’s sizing guide and fit suggestions when determining how to measure for a dog harness. The primary measurement most dog body harness manufacturers require is your dog’s girth, or the circumference at the widest part of the ribcage.

To determine your dog’s girth, wrap measuring tape or string around your dog’s body an inch or so behind the front legs. It should be flush but not tight. If using a string, compare the string to a ruler to get the circumference.

Some harness sizing also requires a lower neck measurement, which is the thickest part of your dog’s neck, just above the shoulders. Place the measuring tape at the base of your dog’s neck so that it’s snug but not too tight.

Harnesses with a chest strap might also take your dog’s chest width in account. You can determine your dog’s width by placing the measuring tape across the front of your dog’s mid-chest and over the breastbone, ending at about an inch behind each leg.

Finally, some harnesses also count your dog’s weight for a perfect fit. You can check your last veterinary record, or pick up your dog and step on the scale together, then subtract your weight from the total.

How Should a Dog Harness Fit?

Comfort is key when it comes to checking the fit of a harness on your dog. Once you’ve put it on, confirm that the harness doesn’t chafe or rub your dog’s skin as he walks, particularly under the front legs in the “armpit” area. Watch for buckles that sit in potentially uncomfortable spots and leg holes and necklines that might be too snug.

The dog harness should be loose enough that you can slip two fingers under it, but not so loose that your dog can accidentally wiggle or slip out of it. Your dog might be able to reverse out the back of the harness or step through the front of it if the fit is off, so attach the leash to it and practice walking in your house to ensure there are no surprise escape points.

As you perfect the fit, adjust one strap at a time until the harness sits evenly and comfortably on your dog’s body.

How to Put on a Dog Harness

No matter what type of harness you select, putting it on your dog requires a little bit of time and effort. Here are some tips for making the experience stress-free for your pup.

Get Your Dog Used to the Harness

Give your dog an opportunity to examine any harness before you try to put it on him. Praise him for sniffing it and give him small treats to keep the introduction positive.

Work through any of your dog’s handling sensitivities before using a harness to prevent it from becoming an unpleasant task.

How to Put on a Mesh Dog Harness (Fashion Harness)

Step 1: To put on a mesh dog harness, hold a treat on the opposite side of the harness so that your dog has to put his head through the neck opening in order to grab it.

Step 2: Slip the harness over your dog’s head until it’s sitting on his shoulders and give him another goody.

Step 3: You can either gently lift your dog’s paw to place it into the first leg hole, or you can slide the strap out of the stabilizer piece in the center and simply loop the strap around your dog’s body and close the buckle. (Some people find it difficult to re-thread the strap once it’s on the dog’s body.)

Step 4: Don’t forget to occasionally check the belly strap to ensure weight gain or loss hasn’t changed the fit.

How to Put on a No-Pull Dog Harness

A no-pull harness requires a little more effort to ensure a perfect fit. Most no-pull harness options like the Easy Walk Harness have multiple adjustment points that can be challenging to refine.

Step 1: Approximate your dog’s size first, before you try to put the harness on. Get the harness and straps close to your dog’s measurements.

Step 2: Once the straps are close to your dog’s size, unclip the silver belly strap and gently slide the already buckled chest and shoulder strap over your dog’s head.

Step 3: Pass the belly strap behind your dog’s front legs and buckle it.

Step 4: Fine-tune the fit so that the belly strap doesn’t rub behind your dog’s legs (particularly the armpit area) and the chest strap is straight across your dog’s chest without sagging.

How to Put a Harness on a Small Dog or a Puppy

The mechanics of introducing and fitting a harness are the same, no matter the size or age of a dog. However, an excitable wiggly puppy might nip at the straps as you try to adjust them, so give your pup something to focus on while you finalize the fit, like a bone or a busy toy.

Let your puppy get used to the sensation of the harness around the house before you head out for your first walk.

If you have a small dog, it can help to place your pup on a table or stair landing when putting on and fitting a harness to make sure you can see all of the components and ensure you have the proper fit.

Harnessed and Happy

Once you’ve selected the right harness for the dog and checked the fit, you and your pup can hit the trails safely and comfortably!

The post How to Put a Harness on a Dog appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Coming when called is one of the toughest cues for pet parents and their pups to master, and when a dog training recall is slow or nonexistent, many pet parents blame their dog for the lack of responsiveness.

While it’s easy to think it’s our dogs’ fault for ignoring a recall, the fact is that if a dog won’t come when called the reason for it is probably related to what the pet parent is doing (or not doing). Even though it might be hard to admit it, a refusal to come when called is less a matter of having a stubborn dog and more likely because the training process is incomplete.

The Importance of Dog Recall

Getting your dog to come to you when called is one of the most important cues you can teach your dog. This is for obvious safety reasons—like if she manages to slip off leash near a busy street—but a speedy recall is also an easy way to reduce potential frustration in your relationship. Trying to corral a frolicking dog when it’s time to leave the park or attempting to call your dog back into the house when it’s time to go to work can be frustrating and can put a strain on your relationship.

Part of the challenge is that teaching coming when called is simple when dogs are young, and many pet parents believe they’ll get the same level of responsiveness as their dog matures. However, without continued practice in a variety of environments—with rewards that make it worthwhile—many dogs find it much more reinforcing to do anything but responding to the recall.

Reasons Your Dog Doesn’t Come When Called

Dog training is a two-way street. Training and behavioral challenges aren’t an indication of a dog’s abilities or lack thereof, they’re a reflection of the amount of team effort that’s been put into training. Rather than placing all of the blame on your dog for blowing off the recall, consider the following reasons why your dog doesn’t come when called.

You Sound Angry

Think about it—if someone called you by gruffly screaming, “Get over here now!” would you be excited to respond? Using an angry tone of voice won’t make your dog race to you, and if you’ve found yourself shouting to get your dog to come to you it’s probably why she runs a few laps before finally heading to you. Sure, a dog that keeps running away or ignoring you is enough to make you want to scream, but if you give in to anger you can almost guarantee that your dog is going to avoid you. Using a happy, upbeat tone of voice, even if you’re frustrated, is more likely to get you a speedy response.

You Use Your Dog’s Name

Most pet parents say their dog’s name all the time, to the point where the frequency of use makes the word the equivalent of verbal wallpaper—it’s said so often that it fades into the background.

The cue you use for recall should be easy to say and shouldn’t have any baggage associated with it. Try simple words or phrases like “Let’s Go!” or “Come Here!” With practice your recall word should have such a positive association that your dog almost reflexively responds to it.

You’re Boring

It’s a huge deal when your dog chooses to listen to you over all of the distractions around her, so simply saying your recall word and then standing there silently as your dog heads your way doesn’t prove how happy you are with her behavior.

Praise your dog as she runs to you! Clap your hands, whistle, and let her know that coming to you when you call is superimpressive.

You Pair it With Something Negative

Dogs pick up on patterns quickly, so if responding to a recall means that the fun at the dog park is ending or you’re going to crate her for the rest of the day, it shouldn’t be a surprise if your dog is running away when you call. Yes, sometimes you have to call your dog to do something that’s not fun, but you should always try to have an interim moment of play or training to keep a “bumper” between the recall and the potentially negative or less-fun experience.

You Stopped Rewarding Your Dog Too Soon

Again, it’s important to note that coming when you call is a big deal, especially in distracting environments, and deserves a little extra recognition. For most dogs that means getting a treat. Many pet parents are eager to get rid of treats once the basic training process is over, and while that might be okay for everyday around-the-house behaviors like sit, requesting that your dog comes when called deserves treats for much longer because it’s a challenging behavior. While you don’t have to give treats for coming when called every single time for the rest of your dog’s life, you should continue to give your dog occasional treats to keep your dog invested in playing the recall game.

You Never Trained in Different Environments

Sure, your dog might be fantastic at coming when called in your yard, but did you practice it in other spaces as well? Dogs aren’t great at generalizing behaviors, which means that just because your dog understands a behavior in one context doesn’t mean that it’s understood in every context. In order for a dog to consistently respond to a recall, she needs to have ample opportunity to practice it in a variety of environments.

How to Get a Dog to Come When Called

Feeling frustrated because your dog runs away and won’t come when you call? Don’t worry. While there are many nuances to building a strong recall, the good news is that the basic steps are straightforward and fun to master.

Since your dog has a history of blowing off the recall, the best way to address this challenge is to build the behavior as if it’s a brand-new cue.

Step 1: First, select a new word for the behavior. If you’ve used your dog’s name or a word that he’s learned to ignore, use something different, like “Here.” Then go back to the basics!

Step 2: Ask a friend or family member to help out with the initial re-training stages. Start off working on the cue in the house so that it’s easy for your dog to be successful. Grab a pocketful of moist, high-value treats, and spread out so that your dog can see both you and your helper and has enough space to get to a galloping run between you.

Say your new cue word once in a happy tone of voice, then whistle, clap or make kissy noises to encourage your dog to come to you. It might help to squat down or back up if your dog seems reluctant to approach you. When she arrives at your feet immediately give her a treat and then lots of praise. You want her to realize that she just did something amazing!

Step 3: Have your partner do the same thing, and then take turns calling your dog back and forth. Keep this exercise quick and easy and leave her wanting more!

Step 4: Move outside to your yard (as long as it’s a safe, closed-in environment) and begin with the same basic back and forth recall. Keep rewarding your dog every time she comes and keep your cue, tone, and actions upbeat, since there are lots of distractions outdoors.

Step 5: Once your dog has mastered the recall inside and outside of your own home, you can find novel, safe spaces to practice. This could be a fenced-in tennis court or a friend’s fenced yard. Keep working on your recall in different environments to help your dog retain the response.

If you want to mix up your recall training with your dog, try adding in a hide-and-seek element to your indoor sessions so that it starts to feel like a game. You can do this outside too, in your yard, to show your dog that coming when called is fun.

Keep rewarding your dog with treats during the re-training process and continue to occasionally treat your dog for coming when called once it’s solidified so she never knows when she’s going to get lucky!

The post 6 Reasons Your Dog Won’t Come When Called appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Unfortunately, the opposite is sometimes true: “Be prepared for two puppies to be twice the work of one,” says Dr. Heather Graddy, a relief veterinarian and veterinary behavior consultant in Englewood, Colorado. Why? Raising sibling puppies successfully can be a challenge because puppies from the same litter may develop a cluster of behavioral issues known as littermate syndrome.

If you have sibling pups that have been misbehaving (or you’re considering training two puppies from the same litter together), read on to learn everything you need to know about littermate syndrome in dogs.

Do Dogs Recognize Their Siblings?

If you’ve ever watched a litter of puppies at play, you’ve probably wondered: Do dogs know their siblings? From the beginning, pups recognize their littermates primarily by scent and that recognition is strongest when they are young, says Dr. Karyn Collier, medical director for wellness medicine at Saint Francis Veterinary Center of South Jersey.

Over time, though, a dog only retains the ability to recognize a sibling if they live together. After two years of living apart, siblings adopted by different pet parents are no longer able to recognize each other (1).

Like humans, littermates form a bond with each other from the start, which can strengthen or weaken over time. Sometimes this connection causes troubling behavioral issues known as littermate syndrome.

What is Littermate Syndrome?

“Littermate syndrome in dogs occurs when two puppies from the same litter living together develop such a strong attachment to each other that it interferes with their ability to interact in a normal manner with other people, other dogs, or any situation where they are not together,” says Collier.

This happens because littermates bond so intensely to each other that they fail to develop connections with their human family. This can make it harder for them to reach their full potential when it comes to good behavior, says Graddy. Puppies with littermate syndrome only interact with each other and become highly dependent on one another for a sense of safety and normalcy.

Littermate syndrome can affect dogs of any breed, and it may also affect unrelated puppies who are adopted at the same time and raised together.

The good news: not all puppy pairs develop littermate syndrome and pet parents can prevent significant issues with specialized training methods.

Signs of Littermate Syndrome in Dogs

At first, puppies with littermate syndrome may seem like they’re acting out or in need of obedience training. However, when dogs experience littermate syndrome, these behaviors are linked to their relationship to their littermate.

Signs of littermate syndrome in dogs can include excessive crying, whining, and destructive behavior when siblings are separated from one another, as well as a lack of interest in playing or interacting with other people or pets in your household, says Collier.

Here are a few signs of littermate syndrome in puppies and dogs to look out for:

Fear of unfamiliar people, things, places, or noises. Puppies may avoid interactions with new people, dogs, or things; become very still and quiet when you approach them; or bark, growl, and snap when presented with new things or situations.

High anxiety when separated from the other pup. Puppies may whine, bark, pace, pant, or exhibit destructive behavior when they’re separated from their littermate.

Unwillingness to eat alone. Dogs experiencing littermate syndrome may only want to eat if their sibling is present.

Unwillingness to engage with people or toys when alone. As previously mentioned, littermate syndrome sometimes causes puppies to focus on the other puppy rather than the humans in the home. Puppies who are only willing to play in pairs may be exhibiting signs.

Difficulty with basic training. Training two puppies from the same litter may take longer than expected because puppies are so distracted by one another.

If you’re considering adopting two puppies at the same time, it’s important to consider the challenges that may come along with this decision, so that you can devote the time and energy to positive-reinforcement training.

Challenges of Littermate Syndrome in Dogs

Littermate syndrome can be difficult for pet parents to deal with, due to the numerous behavioral issues that are involved. Pet parents may notice these problems early on, though they may not arise until pups reach adolescence, notes Graddy.

Most commonly, puppies develop separation anxiety due to hyper-attachment. Because puppies with littermate syndrome dominate each other’s attention, they may fail to learn how to communicate, play, and socialize with other dogs. Over time, this can result in fear and aggression when they’re exposed to other dogs.

Because dogs with littermate syndrome are so focused on each other, they may also bond less with their pet parents. In turn, they could fail to learn and develop appropriate social interactions with humans, too.

Littermate syndrome makes training two puppies from the same litter especially difficult, says Graddy. Because littermates are so focused on each other, it’s difficult for pet parents to get their attention. As a result, teaching puppies even basic skills becomes a greater challenge than it would be if you were training them one at a time.

In the worst-case scenario, littermates may attack each other. Aggression between housemates is more common between littermates adopted together than unrelated dogs adopted at different times, says Graddy.

For these reasons, adopting two puppies at a time may mean more work, not less, for some pet parents.

How to Help Behavior Problems

While raising sibling puppies successfully can be a tall order, it is possible. The key is to treat them as individuals, says Collier.

To help avoid littermate syndrome or put a stop to dogs showing early signs of attachment, there are a few things you can do.

Gradually separate your dogs. Use separate crates (slowly spaced farther apart until they’re no longer in sight), feed them in separate rooms, take them outside at different times, and sign them up for separate obedience training classes, says Graddy.

Socialize them each with other dogs. If socialization with other dogs is important to you, you may also want to take them out for separate play sessions with other pups. As your puppies adjust to their new normal, use treats and praise as rewards for staying calm when they’re apart, says Collier.

Allow puppy time together. Although you should maintain separate training, play sessions, and walks with your pups, you’ll also want to make some time for them to play together to help your dogs get along, says Graddy. Try a joint game of fetch or alternating tug-of-war games with you, she suggests.

“In order to help these pups develop appropriately, you have a lot of fun but time-consuming work in front of you for the next few months,” says Graddy. “While the amount of work will decrease after that time, it will be essential to continue separate training and play times with them throughout their first couple years and, in some cases, forever.”

If you find you don’t have the time, space, and energy to train and bond with your pups separately, consider reaching out to your veterinarian, a certified dog trainer, or a certified veterinary behaviorist for professional help.

How to Prevent Littermate Syndrome in Dogs

The easiest way to prevent littermate syndrome in puppies is to not adopt two pups at the same time, says Graddy.

However, preventing littermate syndrome can also be as simple as treating siblings as individuals from the moment they enter your home, says Collier. Make sure that your pups are getting plenty of exercise and interaction with you, your family, and others—not just alone time with each other, she says.

Another solution if you must have two puppies? Consider adopting unrelated puppies a few weeks or months apart, suggests Graddy.

And, if you’re a cat person, know this—littermate syndrome doesn’t seem to afflict kittens. In fact, many veterinarians recommend adopting kittens in pairs. They can be much easier to raise with a playmate and two is not much more work than one, says Graddy.

The post Littermate Syndrome: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While petting a dog might seem straightforward, there’s more to doing it right than you might imagine.

Whether you’re determining if your own four-legged friend truly appreciates the type of petting he’s getting or attempting to make new canine friends through petting, doing it right requires focus and a solid understanding of canine body language. Once you tune into the fur beneath your fingertips you can make petting a happy and calming experience for all.

Do Dogs Like to Be Pet?

When a dog enjoys petting, you know it. They’ll wag their tail and rear end loosely and often paw at you to keep going if you stop. But the surprising reality is that not all dogs love petting.

Some dogs that don’t enjoy touch make their preferences clear. If you try to reach for them, they duck their heads away or move just out of reach. However, because we don’t always correctly interpret what our dogs are telling us it takes focus to pick up on when a dog is subtly signaling that they don’t want petting.

For example, a dog that doesn’t like petting might tolerate touch but not ask for more when it’s over. Touch-resistant dogs might also offer a different behavior when you try to pet them, like grabbing a toy and trying to engage with you that way instead.

Whether it’s because of the dog’s general preferences or due to environmental stressors (like a dog that’s nervous in a veterinary waiting room), recognizing when a dog doesn’t want contact and honoring the request is the first step in creating a bond.

Why Don’t Some Dogs Like Petting?

What might cause a dog to not like touch? Much like the way some people don’t like hugs or handshakes, some dogs are just wired to not appreciate petting in the traditional sense. Dogs that are bred to work independently of humans—like livestock guarding dogs—might also shy away from petting.

If a dog has previously suffered from abuse or had a bad experience in a former household, he may also be resistant to petting or take a longer time to warm up to your touch.

Just because a dog doesn’t enjoy petting doesn’t mean that they don’t like connecting with people. We can express affection for hands-off dogs in other ways, like hiking or playing together, or even just being physically present with them.

Best Places to Pet a Dog

Every dog has preferences about how and where they enjoy being touched. For some it might be a nice scratch on the rear right above the base of the tail. For others, it’s a relaxing massage on those hard-working shoulders.

Pinpointing your dog’s favorite way to be touched is a combination of trying different locations and watching your pup for feedback as you touch. It might feel strange to pay close attention to a part of your relationship that feels so basic, but confirming your dog’s petting preferences is yet another way to show that you respect your dog’s wishes.

Most dogs enjoy being petted on these parts of the body:

• Sides of the neck
• Under the chin
• Shoulders
• Chest

If your dog is relaxed and rolls so that his belly is available, he might be asking for tummy rubs. But be aware that a nervous dog might expose the stomach as an appeasement gesture in times of stress.

Petting preferences can also be linked to a dog’s past. For example, dogs with a history of ear infections or problems might dislike hands anywhere near their head, while other dogs without similar baggage might enjoy a gentle massage along the edges of the ears.

Touch is a bonding activity that can also have therapeutic benefits if you pay attention to the topography of your dog’s body as you stroke. Not only is touch a stress reducer, pet parents who tune into their dogs while they pet are more likely to pick up on changes to their dog’s coat, skin and overall health.

How to Pet Your Dog

Obviously, the rules of engagement are more relaxed when petting your own dog versus one you’ve never met before, but it’s still important to pay attention to your own dog’s responses when you touch him.

Step One: Assess the Scenario

Even the most snuggly pup can turn his nose up to physical contact in stressful situations, like at the vet or when getting ready to enter the dog park. Always consider what’s going on around you when you get ready to pet. You’ll be more likely to get a “yes please” reaction if you’re chilling on the couch with your dog on a lazy Sunday than in a high-pressure scenario.

Step Two: Watch Body Language

On the left: Dog pulling away from a pet. On the right: More please!

The most important part of petting your dog is learning to read what he’s saying as you do it, which will help you determine his petting location preferences. Your dog’s body language will clue you in as to whether you’re hitting the right spot, or if he’d like it a little lower and to the left please.

Watch for slow breathing, closed eyes, and moving in closer to you as you touch. If your dog licks around his muzzle frequently, yawns, or moves away, he’s probably not enjoying the contact.

Step Three: Check In

Pet your dog for three to five seconds then stop and watch your dog’s reaction. Does he move closer to you or use his paw to swat at your hand for more? He’s enjoying your massage! If he doesn’t do anything to encourage additional contact or moves away, take a break and find a different way to connect with your dog.

How to Pet a Dog You Don’t Know

On the left: Don’t go overhead to try to tap a dog on the head. On the right: Crouch down and let a dog come to you—don’t force it.

Petting a dog that you’ve never met requires a more choreographed approach. It’s critical to let the dog lead the dance rather than making assumptions about the type of interaction he wants.

Step One: Ask for Permission

Check in with the pet parent to make sure it’s okay to try to connect with their dog and listen to their answer. Some pet parents are reluctant to say “no thanks” outright, so if they say something like, “he’s shy” or “he can be funny with people he doesn’t know” it’s best to say hello from a distance and move on.

Step Two: Approach Slowly and Ask the Dog’s Permission

Rushing over to an unknown pup is sure to startle him. Once you’ve gotten the okay from the dog’s pet parent, walk over slowly from the side rather than head-on. Watch the dog as you get closer.

Does his body language look welcoming, with a loose, waggy tail and happy, relaxed face? He’s saying yes! Or is he avoiding looking at you with his ears down and his tail tucked? That’s a definite “no thanks.”

Step Three: Let the Dog Initiate Contact

For larger dogs, stand with your body sideways and for smaller pups, kneel facing sideways. It’s not necessary to extend your hand, as a dog’s keen sense of smell can pick up plenty of information about you even from a distance.

Wait for the dog to approach you and allow him to sniff. If the dog chooses to stay away, he’s not interested in connecting with you.

Step Four: Do the 3-Second Pet Test and Respect the Response

If the dog gets close to you, pet him gently on the shoulders for three seconds then stop. If he asks for more, like pawing at you or moving closer, you can keep it up. If the pup doesn’t make an obvious move for more physical contact say thanks and move on!

What NOT to Do When Petting a Dog

Dog petting etiquette is important, whether you’re reaching for your own dog or one that you meet while out on a walk.

Make sure to avoid the following dog-petting faux-pas:

• Reaching over a dog’s head to pet
• Slapping/thumping the dog’s head
• Hugging or restraining as you pet
• Holding the dog’s face or muzzle
• Petting against the fur’s direction
• Continuing to pet if the dog says “no thanks”

We can get so caught up in our own enjoyment of petting a dog that we forget to focus on the recipient. Petting can be a wonderful stress reliever with health benefits for both pooch and person if we recognize that our dogs have petting preferences, and then honor those wishes.

The post How to Pet a Dog appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Despite a swimming style named the doggy paddle, our four-legged friends require training to navigate waters safely. Once your pooch feels comfortable swimming, imagine the joy you both can have at doggie pools, beaches, and on hikes to your favorite swimming holes. And if your dog needs to lose some extra pounds, or rehabilitate from an injury, this low-impact exercise can prove helpful.

Here’s your guide to teaching your dog how to swim, with information on lessons, safety, gear, and everything you need to make your dog’s swimming experience enjoyable.

Can All Dogs Swim?

Just because a dog instinctively starts air paddling when placed above water doesn’t mean she will be the next Michael Phelps. Even if you have a dog that shows interest in water, assuming she can swim without any training or exposure is dangerous. Dogs can drown if they panic and don’t know how to get out of the water.

“Many dogs never feel fully comfortable in the water,” says Dr. Rachel Barrack, founder of Animal Acupuncture. “Dogs need to learn to swim just like humans do.”

More importantly, when bringing your pet to the pool, it’s vital to keep safety in mind. “Your pet does not understand pool safety rules,” says Barrack, “so it is important that you provide supervision and structure to keep your pet safe while swimming.”

Never leave your pets unattended around a pool or large body of water, she adds.

Dog Breeds That Like to Swim

Photo Credit Avalon Ranch

Certain dogs like to swim more than others, and some dogs have special traits and characteristics that help them thrive in the water.

Labrador Retrievers

With forebears like the St. John’s Water Dog from Newfoundland, modern-day Labrador Retrievers, with dual-layered, weather-resistant short coats and strong hind legs, are among the most popular swimming dogs.

Newfoundland Retrievers

Also hailing from Canada’s Atlantic Coast, the hearty and capable Newfoundland Retriever—another descendent of the St. John’s Water Dog—helped fishermen retrieve fish-filled nets, tow lines, and rescue swimmers in trouble.

Portuguese Water Dog

Found along the coast of Portugal, the Portuguese Water Dog was a crucial member of the coastal communities.

Golden Retriever

The ancestors of the Golden Retriever were bred to recover waterfowl on hunting trips and our current Goldens love the water. They also have strong and long legs that make swimming easier.

Other Dog Breeds That Like to Swim

Other dog breeds that like to swim include:

• American Water Spaniel
• Irish Water Spaniel
• Chesapeake Bay Retriever

Dog Breeds That Can’t Swim

Photo Credit K9 Water World

Pugs, Corgis, Bulldogs, Dachshunds, and Basset Hounds, with their boxy chests and shorter limbs, are not equipped to swim. Without long legs, these round-shaped dogs can’t paddle and tend to roll and even sink when placed in water. Flat-faced French Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boxers (also known as brachycephalic breeds), which have short snouts, have trouble keeping their airways above water.

Canines with heavy coats, like Shih Tzus and Komondors, are weighed down. Smaller dogs like Chihuahuas and Maltese are capable of treading, but they get tired or overwhelmed quickly.

If you have any of these dog breeds or mixes, swimming is risky and they should wear life vests and be monitored when near water.

Teaching a Dog to Swim

Photo Credit K9 Water World

Similar to how dogs learn to sit, stay, and walk well on a leash, they need to master the art of swimming. Pet parents should take the following steps to help their dogs learn how to swim.

Step 1: Start Small, Slow, and Shallow

If you have a dog breed with a propensity towards swimming, you can slowly introduce and teach her in a pool or a shallow lake, so long as she knows a way to get out.

An introductory lesson at your local dog aquatic center could be a good start to get your pooch’s feet wet. Be sure to strap her in a doggie life jacket and be patient.

“Don’t expect your dog to swim on the first visit,” says Meghan Luna, Trainer at K9 Water World in San Marcos, Texas. “If you force it, you’ll go backward 100 times and it’s hard to get a dog to learn a new task if you break their trust.”

If you are practicing swimming with your dog in the open water, stay in the shallow area and train parallel to the shore, avoiding deep water until she becomes a pro. Luna also suggests starting in a small area and keeping initial swim sessions short. “Don’t expect them to swim a mile,” she adds.

Step 2: Get in the Water and Stay Nearby

Even if you have a water-loving dog, the first time your pup hits the water could be a scary experience. Encourage your dog to follow you into the shallow end of the pool and show her where the underwater steps are, in case she needs to get out. Your presence in the water will encourage your dog to build confidence and work towards a reward—whether it’s verbal praise or a special treat in your hand.

Step 3: Use Your Hands to Guide Your Dog

Photo Credit Avalon Ranch

At the beginning, your dog may raise her front paws to try and get out of the water, causing her behind to sink. To prevent this, place one hand gently under her behind and the other over her front legs to stop her from breaking the surface.

Once she starts to paddle, she may not fully utilize her back legs. To guide her along, touch or tickle her rear paws, making her kick those legs and accelerate.

Step 4: Extend Your Distance in the Water

Move a bit further away and call for her to paddle towards you, while keeping an eye on her body language to make sure she’s still enjoying the water. If, at any point, you sense that she’s uncomfortable, guide her towards the exit and start over once she’s calm.

Step 5: Play Games in the Water

Once your dog gets comfortable being in the water, playing games can entice your dog to keep swimming. “The best way for owners to ease their dog into the water is by making it fun,” says Luna. “You can find shallow areas and play fetch with your dog by throwing the toy into the water and slowly making bigger tosses to encourage your dog to go in further.”

Step 6: Provide Plenty of Praise

Photo Credit Avalon Ranch

Finally, shower your dog with lots of praise for a job well done, so she associates the activity with positive feelings. Rinse her off before heading home to get rid of pool chemicals or algae, dirt, or salt from a natural body of water.

Swimming Classes for Dogs

Photo Credit Avalon Ranch

Guided dog swimming classes are a great way to help your water-loving breed get started and excel at swimming. Teaching your dog to swim on your own is possible, but a trained professional can teach your dog the proper technique to paddle, dive, and even float, while avoiding any pitfalls. Dogs also learn faster when aided by the presence of other dogs.

Additionally, a pool at a canine aquatic center is specifically built for dogs, so they can exit with ease. Your average backyard pool can be potentially dangerous for dogs because they don’t have an easy way to jump out. Also, another bonus of taking your dog to a swimming class is that you can continue training your pooch indoors when the weather gets cold.

Dog pools also provide life vests, floating toys, and other training supplies, mitigating the cost of lessons.

During dog swimming lessons, pet parents are encouraged to go in the water with their dogs. This way, they can learn how to do the exercises and implement the steps on their own.

“Being hands on will help [pet owners] remember what to do once they are on their own,” says canine behaviorist and trainer, Mary Spurrell, from Avalon Ranch in Ontario, Canada. “It makes the dogs more comfortable.”

Dog pool businesses that offer swimming lessons typically require that your pet is vaccinated for their own protection as well as for the protection of other animals frequenting their facilities. Attending group lessons may also be beneficial for pet parents to help socialize their pets and meet fellow dog-lovers.

Dog Swimming Gear Checklist

Photo Credit Avalon Ranch

If you plan on swimming with your dog, these are the items you should have on hand:

• Dog life vest
• Dog booties
• Towel(s)
• Fresh water / collapsible bowl
• Dog sunscreen
• Small pet first-aid kit

Whether you are going swimming at the beach or at your neighborhood dog-friendly pool, always put a life vest on your dog—even for the most experienced swimmer. A floatation device makes the activity safer, especially if you are dealing with currents. Help your dog get used to the vest by putting it on at home and incentivizing her with treats.

The best dog life vest is one that can be put on easily and is snug enough for her head to stay above the water’s surface. Look for a vest that has a handle on the back, so that it’s easy for you to pull your dog out of the water if necessary.

If you are going swimming in a lake or near a rocky shoreline, quality booties help protect your dog’s paws. Have clean water available so she stays hydrated and pack a towel or two to dry her off after rinsing.

When swimming outdoors, apply sunscreen formulated for pets—especially on dogs that have light skin and white fur, and reapply it after she comes out of the water. Avoid using human-formulated sunscreens on pets since dogs could lick the sunscreen and ingest harmful ingredients. “Eating these products can cause bloody diarrhea and vomiting,” she says.

Swimming Safety for Dogs

Photo Credit Avalon Ranch

Whether your dog is a beginner or a swimming pro, swimming safety is the highest priority when hitting the pool or surf with your pup.

Follow these important swimming safety tips:

Watch your dog at all times. Don’t let your dog go unsupervised when she’s in or around any body of water. Lakes and ponds may harbor parasites or unfriendly animals, so don’t take your eye off your pup.

Always use a dog life vest. As previously mentioned, make sure your dog wears a life vest—especially if you are on a boat or out in deep water.

Beware of rip tides and currents. Ocean riptides, rushing rivers, and waterfalls could all pose danger to your swimmer, so always be on alert when swimming with your pet.

Don’t let your dog drink pool water. When using a pool, don’t let your pet drink the water. “Chlorine, salt, and other chemicals used to keep pools clean and free of bacteria can cause health problems for your pet, such as gastric upset,” says Barrack.

Dry your pet’s ears after swimming. Barrack also recommends to check your pet’s ears for any leftover moisture following a swimming session. Both ocean and lake water can cause an ear infection. If your dog is prone to ear infections, your veterinarian may recommend an ear cleaner for use after swimming.

Remove flea collars when swimming. If your pet is wearing a flea collar, remove it so the water doesn’t wash off active ingredients. Just make sure to put the collar back on your dog when you’re done!

Teach your dog a safe word. Teaching words like “ashore” to your dog can help her if she’s ever in a bind. Dog trainers can teach your dog to swim to the shore upon hearing the term. This involves throwing a toy or placing a treat near the shore, and saying the cue word as she swims towards it.

Watch for exhaustion. No matter where your canine is swimming, there’s a chance she could become tired or overwhelmed by the immensity of the water. Keeping a watchful eye on her is key to her safety. If your pet shows any signs of tiring, help her out of the water and let her rest.

Seeing your pet do her first lap, race into calm waves after a stick, or jump in the lake with you, are priceless moments. These experiences are worth every bit of effort put into training your dog how to swim.

The post How to Teach a Dog to Swim appeared first on Great Pet Care.

What is puppy socialization?

Simply put, socialization is letting your puppy explore new places, meet new people and other dogs and try new things at a comfortable rate. It’s an important step to helping them grow into a well-balanced adult dog. But why?

We spoke with well-known author and dog trainer, Victoria Schade, CPDT-KA, to find out.

“Exposing your puppy to new adventures in a gentle, positive way can help your pup understand that unfamiliar doesn’t necessarily mean scary,” she says. “Well-socialized pups have the tools to navigate whatever life throws at them; they’re confident and well-adjusted.”

How do you socialize a puppy or dog?

Socialization basically means you are bringing your puppy through the process of learning how to interact in different environments with different people, dogs and other animals. It can also impact how quickly your dog calms down again after something startles them. Victoria says it helps “puppies develop good ‘bounce back’ from the unexpected, so even if they’re caught off guard by something like a loud noise, they’re able to recover quickly.”

Doing this in the right way, at the right time is important.

Research in the 1960s discovered that puppies should start to be socialized before even five weeks old. At five weeks old, puppies in the study started acting fearfully when they were exposed to unfamiliar people.

The first 14 weeks of age is another important socialization period, because puppies are still learning the ins and outs of the world. “Most puppies under 14 weeks don’t have baggage. Everyone they meet is a potential friend and every unfamiliar object could be a new toy,” says Victoria. “An adult dog has had enough exposure to the world to form opinions. So, if they’ve decided that bearded men are scary or yard ornaments are the enemy, the pet parent will have to work harder to change that perception.”

The first three months are critical to your puppy’s development. During that time, consider following a checklist like this one to help your pup become as accustomed as possible to being handled and confident when encountering new things.

As you follow your own checklist, the American Veterinary Medical Association suggests you reward your puppy for engaging in new situations or with strangers appropriately. This could be praise or treats or even some extra playtime. Don’t force your puppy to interact. Letting them go at their own pace while rewarding the behavior you want puts them on a path of living a confident and anxiety-free life.

Can I overwhelm my puppy or dog with new things?

“Recognizing your puppy’s limits is one of the most important aspects of dog-safe socialization,” notes Victoria. Overwhelming a puppy or dog can have a negative effect. Without remaining sensitive to your puppy’s needs, you could inadvertently have a puppy turn into an adult dog that exhibits a lot of fearful behavior or distrusts being touched.

“The goal of socialization is to gradually build confidence without forcing pups into situations that make them uncomfortable,” adds Victoria. “Pet parents have to learn to read their puppy’s body language to understand when the pup is getting close to saturation so they can remove them before the situation deteriorates.”

Remember that keeping your pup’s experiences positive, especially when playing and interacting with other dogs, is important. If you start to see signals of stress, like yawning, lip-licking and looking away, Victoria suggests you end the socialization session.

7 steps to puppy socialization

A new puppy often arrives to their home and new family somewhere between seven and nine weeks of age. If you’re adopting a puppy 12 weeks or older from an animal shelter, you may need to work a bit more consciously to help your pup catch up with socialization.

Here are some first steps to take

Get started with crate training early. The first step of crate training is socializing your pup to the crate and showing them that all good things happen there. This creates a safe space for them to retreat to when they are overwhelmed, and also a safe place you can have them go when you’re not watching.

Show your puppy that household items are safe. A house is filled with so many new things for puppies to be afraid of OR to fearlessly explore. Loud noises or items that sometimes move and sometimes don’t can be a fear-inducing experience. Help your pup understand that these items are nothing to be afraid of slowly and gradually.

“Instead of placing your pup next to the vacuum and turning it on, introduce it at a distance with it turned off,” suggests Victoria. “Give the pup treats, then roll the vacuum and feed more treats, and gradually reduce the pup’s distance from the vacuum while it is turned off, until the dog starts to associate it with goodies. Then go back to the original distance and turn it on, still pairing it with treats, and gradually reduce the distance over several sessions.” Don’t forget to end the session if you start seeing signs of stress.

Bring your puppy on car rides. Carsickness and car anxiety are too real. (We explore this topic more in Do Dogs Get Carsick?) Getting your pup used to being in the car (and maybe even enjoying it!) can save a lot of stress down the line.

Enroll in puppy kindergarten. Many dog training groups and professionals offer kindergarten classes just for puppies. This is a great way to help your pup gain courage and develop manners. They will be introduced to other dogs in a safe class and learn how to interact appropriately no matter the size of the “stranger” dog.

Go new places! Creating a way for your puppy to have fun exploring and having positive, novel experiences is so important. “Socialization and exposure are active processes that are most crucial from three to sixteen weeks of age but should continue well beyond this age range. However, it’s important to realize that socialization is not simply about exposure—it’s about making it fun and positive from the start,” writes Fear Free Pets. They’ve made a fun socialization BINGO game to play.

Explore the outdoors together. Walks are a great way to socialize your pup. “Try taking the road less traveled instead of using the same route every day,” suggests Victoria. “Allow your dog to sniff and enjoy the new sights and sounds at their own pace.”

Contact your veterinarian about making future visits fear-free. Take your pup to the vet for a new puppy exam and talk to your vet about ways of making the visit as pleasant and comfortable for your pup as possible. Learn more about why your dog may not like going to the veterinarian.

Thoughtful socialization can help your puppy become an anxiety-free adult dog. If you start early, take things slow, and create a positive environment, your puppy will learn socialization strategies that lead to confident and fearless lives.

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

Puppy and Kitten Socialization Bingo from Fear Free

The post Puppy Socialization 101: Stopping Fear Before It Starts appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Most puppies welcome the opportunity to play with other canine companions, but as dogs mature, they develop preferences about the type of dogs they like to be around, if any. (Yes, some dogs are born loners.)

That said, there are proactive steps pet parents can take to help dogs get along with each other that range from simple household management techniques to basic training that will help ensure a happy canine siblinghood.

Why Some Dogs Can’t Get Along

Much like humans don’t like every person they encounter, our dogs may feel the same way about their own species. Of course, there are some dogs that seem to get along with every pup they encounter, but most have preferences related to their age, size, general health, and even breed type.

Age can play a major role in dogs not getting along. Some older dogs might not enjoy the nonstop energy and lack of social graces from a rambunctious puppy. Mature dogs with aches and pains might also feel uncomfortable with other adult dogs that want to play hard.

However, even dogs close in age can have issues which are related to their social status. Two dogs of a similar age that are jockeying to be “top dog” in a household can lead to scuffles.

Dogs that aren’t introduced properly might have lasting negative feelings towards one another. The first meeting between two dogs is an important time to set the tone for future interactions. Dogs that are unable to go through a safe, ritualized greeting process might wind up uncomfortable being around one another long-term. And despite the popular advice to let dogs “work it out” on their own during a first meeting, allowing dogs to escalate to a full-on fight is never a safe idea.

Sometimes dogs just don’t get along for reasons we’ll never understand. Even when proper introduction protocols are followed and the dogs are well-matched in age, size, and temperament, there’s a chance that they won’t enjoy hanging out. Some siblings merely tolerate one another rather than falling in love, and as long as there’s peace in the household, this type of polite but not-so-friendly relationship is fine.

How To Help Dogs Get Along

If you are considering adding a dog to your pack or want your dogs to get along better, there are some ways that pet parents can help encourage a better relationship. Follow these tips to increase the likelihood of friendships between dogs.

Introductions Should Be Slow and Steady

The best way to introduce dogs is to use a neutral outdoor fenced area for the initial meeting. Both dogs should be on loose leads handled by experienced dog handlers who understand dog body language.

To begin, allow the dogs to parallel walk on either side of the fence so that they’re close enough to catch one another’s scent. Then bring both dogs into the space and parallel walk them ten to fifteen feet apart. If the dogs’ body language looks loose, waggy, and friendly, begin to decrease the distance between them. Then, once both handlers are confident with the dogs’ reactions, drop the leashes and allow the dogs to greet fully.

If the meeting seems strained or tense at any point, go back to the prior step of the process and slow down the pace.

Allow Decompression Time

Even though you might dream of an all-day play session starting the moment you bring your second dog home, the reality is that you should allot for important downtime if you want to help two dogs get along. Any dog that’s new to your home, particularly a dog that’s spent time in a shelter environment, needs a chance to unwind and adjust to the environment.

Set up a quiet, dog-proofed space for your new dog with a crate and a few treat-stuffable toys and take your time before fully integrating your new dog into your household. And keep in mind that even bestie-dogs that love playing together can use a break from one another, so schedule time for them to rest apart as well.

Manage the Environment

Some dogs will scuffle over prized resources like food bowls, toys, or bones. Feeding dogs in separate spaces is always a good idea. Have separate resources, like food and water bowls, bedding, and toys, for each dog If your dogs get surly over consumable like bones, use a baby gate to keep them safely apart during chew time.

Keep in mind that dogs can also guard locations, like a dog bed, or less obvious ones like a favorite spot on the couch or a prized outdoor viewing window. If your dogs constantly bicker over locations, try to make the spot inaccessible to both dogs, then reintroduce it gradually.

Learn Canine Body Language

Dogs have a nuanced communication system that we don’t always understand, and in many cases it happens so quickly that we don’t even see it. Our dogs are communicating with one another constantly, even if it’s as subtle as a glance or an ear flick.

Pet parents that tune into what their dogs are saying to one another are better able to predict when a situation is getting tense, and can intervene and redirect dogs before things spiral out of control.

Recognize Acceptable Corrections

Sometimes dogs are jerks to one another. They crowd the other’s food bowl, or sniff a bum for longer than acceptable, or tackle harder than necessary when playing. It might be off-putting to hear one dog tell another, “hey stop it” with a growl, but sometimes a dog-to-dog behavioral correction is necessary to keep the peace.

A quick, appropriate correction (such as a growl or bark) is a part of canine siblinghood and doesn’t mean that you’re headed for Armageddon. In a well-balanced home the boundary-pushing dog will heed the canine correction and back off immediately, and everything should go back to normal.

If not and the dogs continue to escalate, consider seeking professional help from a certified trainer.

Institute a “Say Please” Program

Multi-dog homes need manners, and there’s no easier way to do manners training while keeping the peace than by asking both dogs to politely ask for anything they want. A “say please” program asks dogs to do a simple training behavior to get something they want, like sitting politely before you put down the food bowl.

This protocol can be used anywhere. Rather than jockeying for position at the door to get outside, which can escalate tension, ask both dogs to sit for a few seconds, then release them to go out. Recognizing potential trigger situations between dogs and deescalating them using say-please training can help keep everyone in the household happy.

Spay/Neuter Your Dogs

Dogs that still have their sexual organs may have a harder time getting along with other dogs. Intact male and female dogs both have increased aggression related to sex hormones and may seek to be dominant more than neutered dogs. To keep the peace, it is best to spay/neuter all dogs in multi-dog households.

When To Seek Professional Help

Sometimes scuffles between dogs mean more than just sibling rivalry. If your dogs are fighting more than they’re getting along, or they’re injuring one another or you during fights, it’s time to find a qualified trainer or behaviorist to assess the relationship.

The hope is that a slow and steady introduction into the household, good management techniques, and an understanding of dog communication will help dogs get along and lead to a lifelong friendship.

The post How to Help Dogs Get Along appeared first on Great Pet Care.

So, can a cat do tricks let alone learn basic commands? Read on for everything you need to know about cat training, from how to train a cat to sit and high-five to whether or not you should teach her how to use the toilet. 

Can You Train a Cat?

“A lot of people think that cats can’t be trained, but that is absolutely false,” says Marci Koski, a certified cat behavior and training consultant based in Vancouver, Washington. “It just takes a little bit of practice and an openness to experimentation in the beginning to figure out what drives your cat.”

If you think about it, you’ve already trained your cat in numerous ways, she says. For example, your cat likely knows when it’s time to eat as well as when you’re in the mood to play and cuddle because she’s in tune with your day-to-day schedule. In both cases, she shows up because there’s a reward involved—namely, food or attention. 

While puppies and dogs tend to be easy to train because they’re motivated to please you and gobble up lots of snacks, cats are generally more independent and, as a result, won’t work for free, says Dr. Heather Graddy, a relief veterinarian and cat behavior consultant in Englewood, Colorado. 

The key is to discover what motivates your cat. While food is typically your best bet, sometimes her favorite toy or touch (like ear scratches) can serve as powerful motivators, too. 

Keep in mind that cat training sessions tend to be short (think: ten minutes or less), but even a few minutes can make a difference, as cats have great memories and tend to retain what you teach them, says Koski. 

Cat Training Techniques to Try

Training your cat can be a trial-and-error process depending on her unique personality and preferences, so be flexible and willing to try out many different training times in short spurts. 

As you go, avoid punishments (like spraying your cat with a water bottle), as this can drive up your cat’s stress and anxiety and may even damage your relationship with her. Instead, use positive reinforcement for good behavior with lots of rewards. 

To prep for cat training, make sure you have a bag filled with treats (like bits of cooked tuna or chicken), a marker (like a clicker, finger snap, or go-to phrase like “good kitty!” to ID good behavior), and a distraction-free area. This area should be indoors, without other animals, people, activity, or sounds. Then, you’re ready to get started. 

How to Train a Cat to Sit

First things first: Can you train a cat to sit? Yep! In fact, “sit” is one of the most common and straightforward tricks to teach your cat, says Graddy. 

Here’s how to do it: 

Step 1: Lure your cat into the sitting position by holding a treat directly above her head and gradually moving it backwards. As your cat follows the treat, she will naturally sit down.

Step 2: When she sits, immediately ID the good behavior with a click of your clicker or by saying “good kitty!” Give her a treat as a reward. 

Step 3: Repeat as necessary. After a few successes, pair the movement with a hand signal (like pointing down with your index finger) and a vocal command (“Jinx, sit!”). 

How to Leash Train a Cat

Sure, “sit” seems easy enough, but can you train a cat to walk on a leash like a dog? While it’s possible to leash-train a cat, don’t expect her to stroll down the sidewalk with you. Rather, use a leash to allow your cat to freely explore her outdoor environment. Let her lead the way, says Koski. 

Before you leash up any kitty, though, know that skittish cats or those that have never been outside might not be the best candidates for leash training. A new environment could trigger stress, insecurity, and behavioral issues. 

However, if your cat seems interested in adventure or often gazes out the window, here’s how to leash train her: 

Step 1: Purchase a full cat harness or walking vest, a safer option compared to a collar, which your kitty could sneak out of. 

Step 2: Incrementally increase your cat’s exposure to the harness by placing it on the floor with treats next to it and picking it up and allowing her to sniff or rub up against it. Give her plenty of treats to reduce stress and create a more positive association with the harness. 

Step 3: Work up to putting the harness on by draping it over her, putting in one paw, and so on, with many treats along the way. Then, allow her to explore the house with it on. 

Step 4: When she’s comfortable, attach the leash and again allow her to wander around with it.

Step 5: Finally, pick up the leash and gradually lure your cat outside with treats.  

If your cat seems stressed or anxious at any point during your leash-training sessions, stop for the day and try again tomorrow. 

How to Train a Cat to Do Tricks

If you’re wondering how to train cats to do all sorts of tricks, here’s some good news: The same method applies. Like “sit,” tricks like “stay” and “come” can be taught by pairing the good behavior with a click, a treat, and a vocal and visual cue. 

The same goes for “shake” as well. Once your cat has learned how to sit, simply shake her front paw and give her a click and treat. Then, gradually move your hand farther away so she has to reach up in order to touch it for a “shake” and a treat. 

How to Train a Cat to Use a Scratching Post

Of course, training your cat out of undesirable behaviors can come in handy, too. One of the biggest problems pet parents face is a cat that loves scratching up furniture or curtains. Remember—punishing your cat for these things does not work, since scratching is a natural instinct. So instead of grabbing a spray bottle, give your kitty an alternative she can’t resist.  

Here’s how to teach your cat to use a scratching post:

Step 1: Place a cover over your couch. Double sided sticky tape can deter scratching from corners of couches.

Step 2: Find a scratching post that your cat wants to scratch. Think of what she likes, such as a fabric similar in material and texture to your beloved couch. 

Step 3: Place the scratching post right beside the furniture, surround it with treats and toys, and reward her with “good kitty!” and treats every time she scratches it. Don’t force her to scratch it—just reward her when she uses the scratching post on her own. 

Step 4: After several times of rewarding her for using the scratching post near the sofa or curtains, gradually move the scratching post to a new location. Continue rewarding her until the behavior becomes a habit.  

Can You Toilet Train a Cat?

“Can you train cats to use the toilet?” is one of Koski’s least favorite questions. Just because you can train a cat to do something doesn’t mean that you should, she says. 

Toilet training goes against your cat’s nature. Cats like to crawl into a secure and safe area that’s sandy and scratch around before they use the restroom and hopping on the toilet does nothing to address these needs, adds Graddy. 

In the worst-case scenario, a toilet-trained cat could potentially injure herself when jumping on or off the outlet or the training could trigger a desire to create a mess elsewhere in the house. 

So, while some cats can be trained to use the toilet, sticking to a traditional litter box is your best bet. 

Cat Training: When to Seek Professional Help

Even if you happen to be a wonderful at-home cat trainer, sometimes your cat might need more help than you can offer. 

A sudden change in behavior like biting or going to the bathroom outside of the litter box can sometimes signal an underlying medical issue like pain from arthritis or an infection. In this case, call your veterinarian as soon as possible to figure out next steps, advises Graddy. 

If you’re having ongoing issues with aggression, spraying, or house-soiling, a certified cat behavior consultant can help you figure out the root cause of your cat’s behavior and how to address it in order to improve the situation for your pet and your family.  

“Don’t be afraid to reach out,” says Graddy. “We’re here to help, and it’s easier to fix a problem earlier rather than later on.” 

The post Can You Train a Cat? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Sometimes a canine digging habit simply makes your yard look bad, but digging can also lead to escape if your dog discovers how to tunnel his way under a fence or barrier. 

Digging rarely goes away without intervention. In order to figure out how to stop a dog from digging, you first need to identify the reasons behind it, then apply dog-friendly training to redirect your dog to a more appropriate activity. 

Why Do Dogs Dig?

Dogs like to dig for a variety of reasons. Digging can range from a fun leisure activity to a breed hallmark, or may be caused by a combination of any of the following factors:   

Boredom: While dogs love spending time in the great outdoors, the caveat is that they enjoy it most when with their people. Dogs left alone outside often resort to creative ways to stay occupied, like barking or digging.  

Fun: Let’s face it—digging is fun! Sinking paws into the earth probably feels good, and sometimes the dirt even plays back when dogs discover roots or scurrying bugs. 

Hiding items: Some dogs like to keep their precious bones and toys hidden away and take them to the yard (or couch!) to bury them. This behavior can become an expensive habit when dogs bury every bone they receive!

Chasing prey: Many dog breeds that dig, like terriers, are driven to put their noses to the earth to find creatures underground, and even the hint of something furry under the surface is enough to encourage excavation.

Temperature control: Dogs that are outdoors in extreme temperatures (either heat or cold) might dig to find relief from the weather by burrowing into the ground.

Escape confinement: Sometimes it’s hard to resist the call of the wild and dogs will dig to get out of their yards in search of adventure. This is especially true for dogs that are not neutered or dogs that spend too much time alone outside.

Dog Breeds That Dig

Any dog can learn to love digging, but there are many breeds that are genetically predisposed to dig in search of prey.  

Terrier breeds dig to uncover rodents, rabbits and other critters. Dogs from the hound group also burrow to get to prey or follow scents anywhere they might lead—including underground. Working dogs might dig to find just the right temperature. 

Some dog breeds that dig include:

• Jack Russell Terriers
• Cairn Terriers
• Airedale Terriers
• Fox Terriers
• Dachshunds
• Beagles
• Huskies
• Malamutes

Pet parents with a breed that is predisposed to digging may find it more challenging to alter the behavior. 

How To Stop Dogs From Digging

The first step in figuring out how to keep dogs from digging is determining the motivation behind it. Unfortunately, there’s no single one-size-fits-all solution that will work for every dog, particularly those driven by instinct. 

Using a multi-tiered approach can help keep dogs from digging in the yard. Try these tips to stop dogs from digging.

Increase daily stimulation. It’s a safe bet that every dog can use more daily enrichment, especially those that like to dig. Properly exercising your dog goes beyond daily walks. Take time to play games that engage your dog’s brain and body. Activities like find the toy, scenting games, and fun trick training will help to wear out your dog so he’ll be less inclined to dig.  

Keep him busy outside. Rather than sending your dog out to the yard with nothing to do, give him a treat-stuffed activity toy or messy marrow bone that will help to keep him focused on something other than digging. However, this option isn’t a good fit for diggers that like to hide their treasures.

Make an outdoor dig pit. Creating a sanctioned digging zone can be helpful for dogs that like to dig for fun or those that dig to hide goodies. Block off an area in your yard with a border and fill it with loose soil or sand, then hide a few goodies in the dirt and encourage your dog to find them. Always praise your dog when he chooses to dig in his special spot.

Make an indoor dig pit. Dogs that like to dig in the couch when trying to bury a treasure might enjoy a dig zone that they can really manipulate. Find a box with low sides or a plastic storage container and fill it with scraps of fabric or packing peanuts, then place a few treats in the mix and encourage your dog to find them. Just keep an eye on your pup to make sure he’s not eating any of the packing peanuts.  

Encourage indoor bone time. If your dog immediately heads outside whenever he gets a bone, lock the door and encourage him to chew inside only. Just be prepared—you might have to deal with sad looks as your dog adjusts to this new reality.

Supervise your dog. Rather than turning your dog outside to spend time in the yard alone, go hang out with him. Spending quality time together is always a good idea, and if your dog starts digging you can redirect him to a more appropriate activity like a game of fetch or a stuffed treat toy.

Relocate tempting yard critters. Encourage underground animals to move on to the next house with natural repellants like applying a mix of water and castor oil in their burrows, using animal-safe grub control to kill off their food source, or placing vibrating spinners along their tunnels. 

How to Stop a Dog From Digging Under the Fence

Making sure that the fence line around your yard is secure is critical to ensure your dog’s safety. Advice about preventing dogs from digging under the fence usually suggests fortifying the base of the fence with cement, chicken wire, or large rocks, but the problem of repeat escapees requires more than just a prison guard mentality. 

Dogs that are driven to leave the yard repeatedly most likely have needs that aren’t being met. They might be bored and under stimulated, frightened by something in the environment, or not neutered and seeking a mate. 

The first step to prevent dogs from escaping in the yard is to inspect and fortify fences and barriers for safety. But, more importantly, if you want to figure out how to stop your dog from digging under the fence, consider your dog’s total wellbeing and take steps to improve his lifestyle to decrease his desire to dig and escape.

Dog Digging: When to Involve Professional Help

If your dog continues digging despite your efforts, it’s a good idea to involve a professional dog trainer, particularly if your dog can’t be redirected to a more appropriate activity or if he repeatedly manages to escape your yard. 

Rehabbing a dog that digs requires supervision and dedication, but with the right approach you’ll be able to convince your four-pawed gardener to pick up a new profession!

The post How to Stop a Dog From Digging appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Healthy fear isn’t a bad thing—in you, or your dog

In fact, fear is biologically essential. We’ve been designed with fear because it protects us and helps us survive. It’s what stops us from entering dangerous situations. We also learn what we can and cannot trust—what we should and should not fear for our own good. A certified professional dog trainer, Sam Wike, CPDT-KA, VSPDT-CDT, writes: “Whether an adult, child, dog, cat, or any other living species, fear is natural. We are all born with a baseline of fear (survival), are predisposed to others (nature) and accrue others through life experiences (nurture).”

Fear shows in dogs in many different ways

Whether your dog’s stressed about going to the vet, picking up your anxieties from work (for real), or skittish around something seemingly really weird—like his water bowl, fear and anxiety presents differently for different dogs. Some common presentations include:

• Compulsive repetition of certain behaviors
• Inability to settle
• Destruction
• Aggression
• Yawning, drooling, panting, etc.
• Potty problems
• Shedding A LOT
• Physical changes, like posture, chemical levels, eye dilation
• Changes in appetite
• And more

Read more about common stress presentation in 10 Common Signs Your Dog’s Stressed Out.

Dogs who have overwhelming, destructive or problematic fear can be helped

While some fear is healthy, sometimes your dog’s anxiety can get to a point where it’s compromising quality of life and care. Extreme separation anxiety can result in danger for your dog, destruction and high vet bills. Fear of the vet can result in poor healthcare and so on.

If you have a fearful dog or a dog that is disruptively anxious in certain situations, experts agree that four specific methods can help them gain confidence, manage triggers and fear-bust for a fuller life.

Important—if you have a dog who is exhibiting fear aggression, you’ll want to seek out some expert help. It’s a bit more complex than a dog who is simply scared.

1. PREVENTION: Stop the behavior from being practiced.
   Your dog’s behavior is situational and the more something is practiced, the harder it will be to stop. “Practice makes perfect,” writes Irith Bloom, owner of The Sophisticated Dog and highly respected dog trainer with a specialty in fear-prone dogs. “If the dog keeps biting the mailman, he’s going to get better at it (and you will likely be facing an ugly lawsuit, too). It’s essential to prevent the problem behavior from happening while implementing positive training to change the dog’s behavior.”What triggers your dog?

• When the doorbell rings, does your dog bark incessantly? Put tape over the doorbell for now.
• Does your dog try to start fights at the dog park? Go on a hike together instead.
• Does your dog growl at strangers when they pet him? Ask strangers not to approach or pet them for now.
• Does your couch get destroyed every time you leave for more than 2 hours? Make sure you are stopping in to help your dog calm himself before then. (NOTE: DO NOT use methods that shock or startle to deter this behavior or you might just make it worse.)

2. HELP YOUR DOG FEEL SAFE: Manage your dog’s exposure to the trigger.
   Creating a safe space for a scared dog is a MUST. Dog trainer Debbie Jacobs notes, “If we cannot or will not create an environment in which a dog is not constantly startled or scared by things, it’s going to [be] difficult if not impossible to help them learn to feel safe around those things.”

We don’t want your dog to constantly fear the thing they dread popping up at every corner. Prevention helps this, but understanding the cues that precede what scares your dog helps as well. These are what many trainers focus on when they talk about managing behaviors. “Sometimes management alone is good enough,” writes Irith. “If your dog calms down 10 minutes after guests arrive, putting him behind a gate for the first 10 minutes may be all you need to do to get rid of the dog’s jumping behavior.”

Another way you can create safety for your dog and help them build confidence is by understanding his fear threshold. According to Positively.com, your dog’s unique fear threshold is the maximum amount of stimuli or stress your dog can experience and STILL be comfortable and their normal self. Anything higher throws them into their fear response (that we don’t want them to practice) and their behavior will change as a way to cope with the extreme stress.

Staying aware of your dog’s threshold at any given time will help you prevent it IF you can predict when too much is too much and do something about it before it starts.

3. STAY CALM AND CONFIDENT: So your dog doesn’t pick up your nerves.
   Dogs look to their humans for cues as to how to react. Our physical cues like body language and our tone of voice become the unconscious direction we give our dogs. If we focus on training them clearly, directly and calmly, and reinforce positive behaviors consistently throughout their life, we can help our dogs remain calm and feeling safe in our presence.

It’s important to remember, too, that the human-dog bond is special and dogs can pick up on our anxieties and stress. So try to keep cool because the research shows that chronic stress syncs between a dog parent and their dog.

Promote confidence in your dog by practicing positive reinforcement and consider consulting a professional to make sure you’re reinforcing the behaviors you think you are. Giving treats to your dog for displaying confident body movements—walking through a doorway in a normal posture or maintaining eye contact or smiling—can help your dog associate confidence with reward. “There is a psychological theory called the James-Lange theory that suggests that if, for instance, you smile, you will feel happier,” notes trainer Linda Michaels. “Thus, using rewards for confident body language in a dog may predict the development of confidence in the dog.”

Some dogs may benefit from medication or supplements for anxiety as well. If you think your dog may, be sure to have the conversation with your vet before adding or changing what you’re giving your dog. All dogs are different so a medicine that works for one may not work for yours. And that’s okay!

4. CHANGE THE EXPERIENCE: Show your dog this can be fun.
   Once you have your dog in a safe space, you know his threshold, and are able to exude calmness and confidence in your interactions with him…you’re primed to desensitize or use counterconditioning.

“Change how they feel about the scary stuff by changing what it predicts,” suggests Debbie Jacobs. “This is called counterconditioning. Usually we have the scary events become a reliable predictor for something yummy or fun.”

Using short, positive interactions in a controlled environment should help start shifting his perception. With patience and consistency, you can recondition your dog to associate positivity with what was once scary.

Of course, none of these methods are guaranteed to transform a scared dog into the life of the party. It’s important to set realistic expectations for your dog. Some dogs are naturally reserved and would rather hang out at home than the dog park…and either is fine. Some behaviors are simply easier to steer clear of, and less stress for everyone.

By the way, don’t be afraid to ask for help—there are so many fantastic canine veterinary behaviorists and trainers that may be able to help you on your fear-busting journey!

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