“Cats are really interesting animals,” says Dr. Emily McCobb, clinical associate professor of anesthesiology at Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. “While they are predators, they exhibit some prey animal behavior, like masking pain, because they don’t want to get eaten.” 

So how can you tell if a cat is in pain and what should you do about it? There are signs to watch for that can help you determine next steps.

Do Cats Feel Pain?

Before we get into the signs that a cat is in pain, let’s clarify what sort of pain a cat feels. “Cats biologically have the same type of pain receptors that humans do in all parts of the body,” explains Emily Swiniarski, DVM, chief medical officer of PAWS Chicago in Chicago, Illinois. “It may not be the exact same experience as what a human has, but we know they feel pain in the same way that any other animal would when they have injury or ongoing medical issues.” 

Cats can experience both acute and chronic pain. Acute pain is usually sudden, sharp, and caused by an injury (broken bone, burn), illness, surgery, or medical procedure. It typically goes away when the cause of the pain is resolved. Chronic pain, on the other hand, is ongoing and may not even be related to a past injury. Osteoarthritis (often referred to as arthritis) is an example of a progressive condition that can cause chronic pain in cats. Chronic pain is particularly hard to diagnose, as the signs of pain are very subtle. 

Many of the signs of cat pain are similar to signs of other illnesses in cats. The important thing for you to do as a pet parent isn’t diagnosing the cause of the sign but rather noticing it and seeking out help from a veterinarian who is trained in cat health. 

8 Signs a Cat is in Pain

Let’s explore some of the common signs and symptoms of pain in cats. A cat in pain may experience one or more of the following signs:

Changes in behavior

“A big sign that cats are in pain is a change in their activities,” explains Nancy Vail-Archer, DVM, medical director of NorthStar Vets Veterinary Emergency Trauma & Specialty Center in Maple Shade, New Jersey. “These changes can be subtle. For example, a cat that used to jump up on the counter all the time won’t anymore. Or the cat has reduced energy levels and less interest in play. What you’re looking for is the cat becoming less engaged in routine behaviors.”

Remember, it’s a CHANGE in behavior. A cat who has never been interested in toys may just be lazy, not painful.

Hiding

If your cat is typically pretty sociable with people and then starts hiding rather than engaging with your family, this is an indicator of pain and discomfort, Dr. Vail-Archer notes. It’s one of the most common changes pet parents report in their sick or painful cats. If your cat is usually under your feet in the morning as soon as you walk into the kitchen but now needs to be woken up after breakfast has been served, that could be a sign of pain as well. Again, this goes back to the first sign of any change in behavior being a possible sign of pain. 

Not using the litter box

Peeing or pooping outside the litter box technically falls under “change in behavior” too, but this is another big indicator that something is off with your cat. They could be suffering from a painful health condition like a urinary tract infection (UTI) or arthritis. Cats with joint pain due to arthritis may have trouble climbing in and out of the litter box, whereas a cat with a UTI may strain to urinate and associate the litter box with pain so they find somewhere else to go. 

Vocalizing

Some cats are more vocal than others, but if your normally quiet kitty starts meowing, crying, or moaning, especially when you touch a certain spot on their body or while they are using the litter box, there is an issue that needs to be addressed. 

Limping/holding up a leg

Limping is one of the more obvious signs that a cat is in pain because you can see what body part is causing issues. Limping is ALWAYS a sign of pain. If a cat is favoring one leg over another, or won’t put a certain paw on the floor, that’s a clear signal that something is wrong.

Abnormal posture

Dr. McCobb notes that a relaxed cat will have a stretched-out body posture. If a cat is more crouched or curled, that is an indication that the cat is ill, uncomfortable, or in pain. For example, a cat with stomach pain may not stretch out fully. Or a cat may only lay down on one side of their body to minimize pressure on a painful limb. 

Aggression

Cats who are in pain are more likely to be irritable and may even lash out at their humans. So if your cat is usually friendly and then becomes aggressive for seemingly no reason, pain could be to blame. Cats may lash out at their housemates—other cats or dogs—instead of their people.

Loss of appetite

Refusing to eat is a general sign of pain in cats that could be associated with a number of conditions, ranging from dental problems to urinary disorders to cancer. The key is paying attention to other behaviors your cat is exhibiting along with loss of appetite. For example, “if you notice food is falling out of their mouth or they want to eat but they can’t seem to eat, those are signs of dental pain,” Dr. McCobb explains. A cat who is painful when walking may visit the food bowl fewer times per day.

Next Steps When Your Cat Is in Pain

While pet parents should always be on the lookout for signs and signals their cat might be in pain, there are some situations that are more urgent than others. “If there’s a very small behavior change, say, for example, a small change in appetite, but your cat is still eating, drinking, and using the litter box, I would suggest monitoring them for a week to see if things turn around and go back to normal,” Dr. Swiniarski says. “If they don’t, you’ve probably noticed something that’s indicative of a chronic issue or something that’s not going to go away on its own, and you should seek out your veterinarian.” 

Of course, if your cat gets worse, you should see a veterinarian immediately. “If your cat stops eating, stops using the litter box, isn’t active at all, or is unable to get up, those are signs of an emergency and you should see a veterinarian right away,” Dr. Swiniarski says.

Pain is easier to diagnose—and can be caught earlier—when pet parents are tuned into their cat’s behaviors and keep a thorough medical history, Dr. Vail-Archer says. “History is so important because the owners are the ones who really know their cat’s behavior. They’re an incredibly important part of the health care team when it comes to recognizing pain,” she says. “Getting a good history helps us to hone in on what exactly is wrong.”

How to Manage Pain in Cats

So what do you do once your cat has a pain diagnosis? You treat it. “A lot of cat owners don’t realize that there are many ways that we can treat pain and make our cats feel more comfortable,” Dr. Vail-Archer says. “These treatment options include acupuncture, physical rehabilitation, laser therapy, massage therapy, and even weight loss.”

Dr. McCobb adds that there are pharmaceutical options for pain relief in cats as well. “We didn’t have a ton of great options for pain management in cats, especially when it comes to chronic pain, until very recently,” she says. “There’s a bunch of newer medications and treatment modalities that are safe for cats long term and can help us improve their quality of life as they’re living into their late teens.”

Different sources of pain require different treatments. If you have questions about how to alleviate and manage your cat’s pain, call your veterinarian to talk about what treatments would work best for your individual cat.

The post How to Tell If a Cat Is in Pain: 8 Signs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

These expert tips can make the experience less painful for everyone. So, the next time your cat has a medical procedure or is having an arthritis flare-up, consider one of these methods for comforting your cat. 

What to Do When Your Cat Is in Pain

It was once thought that animals don’t experience pain in the same way humans do. In fact, pain was believed to be beneficial to the animal post-surgery, since it limited their ability to move and injure themselves further. Now, we understand that the neurological makeup of cats and dogs isn’t so different from ours. We can presume that just as pain hinders our quality of life (and slows healing after surgery), it can do the same to our feline friends [1].

While a cat in pain might limp or meow excessively for your attention, the signs of pain aren’t always that obvious. Some cats stick to their evolutionary roots—hiding their pain because an animal that shows pain or weakness becomes an attractive target for predators, explains Patrik Holmboe, DVM, head veterinarian at Cooper Pet Care. 

“Expressions of pain can take many forms,” adds Bruce Silverman, DVM, medical director at Village West Veterinary. Symptoms of pain in cats may include changes in behavior such as decreased play, decreased appetite, hiding, and avoidance of touch. Cats might limp to indicate pain in a limb, strain to urinate when there’s trouble with the urinary tract, or stare at the food dish when their mouths hurt. 

There are also auditory clues that cats are in pain, too. Cats in pain might yowl, hiss, or growl, which can easily be mistaken for aggression. 

Pain doesn’t just come in one variety. There are several types that can be important to distinguish in order to select the most appropriate treatment plan:

• Acute pain. “Acute pain is often difficult to hide, and a cat will more readily demonstrate how much and where something hurts them,” Dr. Silverman says. Acute pain is typically defined as pain that is present for less than three months [2]. 
• Chronic pain. As pain persists, cats may show more subtle changes in their behavior, such as decreased activity or slowed movement. Chronic pain is typically defined as pain that is present for more than three months [2]. 
• Acute-on-chronic pain. A cat could experience acute pain on top of chronic pain. An example is a senior cat with arthritis who experiences a flare-up during the wet and cold months, explains Natasha Bui, PT, DPT, CCRT, founder of Animus Animal Rehab. 
• Post-surgical pain. According to Dr. Silverman, post-surgical pain can have a hybrid effect; it’s acute but may cause cats to withdraw and hunker down, as if they have chronic pain. 

This is why it’s essential to seek a veterinarian’s expertise when your cat is in pain, as they can observe and detect even the slightest changes in your pet’s behavior and posture, Dr. Silverman says. The Feline Grimace Scale is one tool your veterinarian might use to assess your cat’s pain. “It’s based on facial expressions,” explains Dr. Holmboe. “The idea is to try to quantify pain, which isn’t always easy. The scale evaluates several factors, including ear position, muzzle tension, whisker position, and head position.”

10 Tips for Comforting a Cat in Pain

Managing your cat’s pain, whether at home or with help from your veterinarian, improves their quality of life and reduces complications. It also strengthens the human-animal bond. Here are 10 tips for comforting a cat in pain.

Provide a Safe Post-Surgery Environment 

“It’s best to keep your cat in a more confined area after surgery,” Dr. Silverman advises. This allows you to monitor their progress and keeps them from hurting themselves on high surfaces or stairs. For some procedures, a room without cat trees and high furniture will do. For other procedures, like luxating patella surgery, your veterinarian may recommend confining your cat to a large crate for a few weeks. 

Swap Traditional Pet Furniture for Orthopedic Options

Orthopedic beds provide optimal support by evenly distributing your cat’s body weight, relieving pressure on any specific part of the body. Choosing an orthopedic bed with CertiPUR-US certified foam ensures that the foam has undergone extensive testing by a non-profit third party to confirm that it does not contain harmful substances and is safe for indoor air quality. Depending on the type of pain, heated beds, blankets, and pads can also provide relief. 

Improve the Accessibility of Your Home

Life with mobility issues isn’t easy, especially if you’re a cat who’s trying to heal or is in chronic pain. The tips below will make everyday life for your feline a little easier to manage—and a lot more enjoyable.

• Stairs and ramps: “The main factor to make your house more accessible to cats with chronic pain would be to add stairs or ramps to allow them to get to the places they want to be without putting too much strain on their hips and legs,” Dr. Holmboe says. Ramps and stairs offer your cat a safe way to access their favorite spots, like your bed, the couch, and the windowsill. 
• Increase traction: “The more traction the better,” Dr. Bui says. Think: runners, rugs, and yoga mats in high-traffic areas. 
• Low-entry litter boxes: Swap any elevated or top-entry litter boxes for low-entry litter boxes. Dr. Bui adds that using a lightweight litter substrate can also reduce litter box strain and pain. Furthermore, there should be a litter box on every level of the house so that your cat doesn’t have to climb the stairs to use it.
• Elevated food and water bowls: Elevating bowls so your cat doesn’t have to bend down decreases the amount of strain on the neck, Dr. Bui says.  

Talk to Your Veterinarian About Prescription Pain Relief for Cats

The type of pain medication for cats your veterinarian prescribes depends on the procedure your cat had or the condition present. “A dental cleaning may require mild pain medications. Surgery may need stronger medications [or a longer course of medications]. However, there are enough safe choices that no matter what was done to your cat, you should have both safe and effective choices,” says Stephen Quandt, a certified Feline Training and Behavior Specialist (CFTBS) and founder of Cat Behavior Help. 

• Opioids: Opioids include common medications such as fentanyl and buprenorphine. Your veterinarian may give your cat opioids before and during a procedure, since they can reduce pain response and lower the needed amount of anesthesia, and opioids may be sent home with your cat as short-acting or long-lasting pain relief [1]. In 2022, a long-acting topical opioid that lasts for three days was approved for use in cats and has been a great addition to the medical arsenal for cats.
• Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs): These drugs decrease inflammation, which is a cause of pain and why pain may be worse the day after surgery.  
• N-methyl-D-aspartate (NMDA) receptor antagonists: When a cat develops chronic pain, your veterinarian may prescribe NMDA receptor antagonists, such as amantadine. 
• Gabapentin: Gabapentin is a common pain medication for cats that interferes with the brain’s pain transmission process, leading to a reduction in pain perception. It also helps cats relax, which in itself can relieve some causes of pain.
• Monoclonal antibody (mAb) for osteoarthritis: Just last year, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) approved the very first mAb drug developed to control pain associated with osteoarthritis in cats. The weight-based dosage is injected under the skin once a month [3].

Do NOT give your pet pain relief medicine made for humans, as it could be toxic. 

Administer Medicine in a Stress-Free Way 

With the correct positioning and a tasty treat (when allowed) administering medication to your cat doesn’t have to cause more stress and pain. Cat pill poppers can aid in giving medication, as can wrapping your cat in a towel. When you’re unsure of the best approach to medicate your cat, ask your veterinarian for tips or alternative forms of medication. Most medications are available as liquids or pills/capsules. Ask your veterinarian for the type that is easiest for you to give. 

Talk To Your Vet About Pain-Relieving Supplements for Cats

Always consult your vet before giving your cat any supplement. This is essential for safety reasons, as many products that are safe for humans and dogs can be toxic to cats, Quandt says. Your veterinarian can recommend the ideal supplement for your cat’s pain and prescribe the appropriate dosage for effective results.

• Omega-3 fatty acid: Omega-3 fatty acid derived from small, cold-water fish and some plant sources have the potential to reduce inflammation. 
• Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate: These are popular choices for cats with chronic pain, including arthritis, Dr. Holmboe says. 
• CBD: CBD (cannabidiol) for pets can be found in various forms, including CBD chews, tinctures, and crunchy treats. While the FDA hasn’t officially approved cannabidiol products for therapeutic use in pets and research is limited, it’s a popular choice for managing pain and anxiety, according to Dr. Silverman. Just be sure to get your veterinarian’s OK and recommended dosage before giving it a try.

Try Calming Aids

While pheromone sprays or diffusers can be useful, they are likely only effective when used alongside traditional pain relief methods, Dr. Holmboe says. He adds that their effectiveness can depend on the individual cat and the specific situation. Calming aids also come in the form of crunchy or soft treats, probiotic powder, and tinctures. 

Consider Complementary Therapies

Several therapies can complement traditional veterinary care to help alleviate pain and support healing. Consult your veterinarian to determine the most appropriate approach before using them for your cat.

• Physical therapy: Working with a physical therapist can ensure safe movements, identify the source of pain, offer treatment, and provide pet parents with the necessary tools to manage their cat’s pain and enhance their quality of life. Over time, physical therapy may reduce or eliminate the need for pain medicine. Physical therapy is especially important after orthopedic surgery.
• Laser therapy: Also called cold laser therapy or photobiomodulation, this therapy uses infrared light to stimulate cellular function to promote healing, Dr. Bui explains. 
• Electrical stimulation: There are two types of electrical stimulation, which are used for different purposes, Dr. Bui explains. Transcutaneous Electrical Nerve Stimulation (TENS) modulates pain and swelling, such as after surgery. Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation (NMES) maintains muscle bulk, prevents atrophy, and helps reduce spasticity in pets with neurological conditions.
• Pulsed Electromagnetic Field Therapy: This method reduces inflammation and pain throughout the body, and can promote faster healing, Dr. Bui explains.  
• Massage therapy, acupuncture, and chiropractic care: According to Dr. Bui, these methods may be excellent solutions for short-term pain relief but should be paired with traditional medicine and/or physical rehabilitation to treat the root cause of the pain. 
• Hydrotherapy: Much more popular with dogs than cats, this is a physical therapy method utilizing an underwater treadmill. “This would be great for a cat with severe arthritis or who has significant pain or swelling as the water’s buoyancy can help with all of those.,” Dr. Bui says. Some cats do great with this type of therapy, but most cats prefer land-based therapy modalities.

Provide Space When Necessary 

All our experts agree, a cat in pain might not want to be cuddled or pet. “Approach slowly, gently, and speak sweetly,” Quandt says. Let your cat engage with you at their own pace by offering your hand for them to sniff or a gentle touch on an area of their body that is not painful. If they don’t seem interested, give them space but check on them from time to time.

End-of-Life Care

As tough as it may be, end-of-life care may be the most humane decision for a pet in chronic, unmanageable pain with an end-of-life condition. “Being sensitive to how your pet is doing can help you make that timely decision to end their suffering. It’s the final gift that we can give them,” Quandt says.

Considering these factors will help you determine if humane euthanasia is the right decision for you and your pet: 

• Are they eating, able to control their bodily functions, and walking? 
• Do they still show interest in their favorite activities and maintain their sense of self? Or do they have a vacant look and seem disconnected from the world?
• Are they living or just alive? 

Depending on your answers, it may be appropriate to discuss humane euthanasia with your veterinarian. 

Conclusion

“If you have a hunch your cat is in pain, you’re probably right,” Dr. Silverman says. So, don’t wait until the signs of pain worsen to seek veterinary care. After all, you are your cat’s strongest advocate, he adds. While preventing our cats from experiencing pain might not always be an option, the above tips can prepare us to comfort our cats when they need it the most.

The post How to Comfort a Cat in Pain: 10 Tips appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Fortunately, veterinary medicine has come a long way in the past decade, providing several highly effective treatments for alleviating allergy symptoms in dogs. While that’s great news for pups and pet parents, it’s still important to know what the symptoms of dog allergies are, since they play an important part in recognizing, diagnosing, and treating dog allergies correctly. 

Wondering if your pooch has allergies? Here’s a helpful overview of dog allergy symptoms to watch out for, along with guidance about how to help allergic dogs get relief.

Understanding Dog Allergies

Dog allergies are generally categorized into three types: flea allergy, environmental allergy, and food allergy. However, it is worth noting that many dogs with allergies can have more than one type, and the allergy symptoms associated with each type tend to overlap. 

That means you can’t necessarily pinpoint whether or not your dog has allergies (or what kind) just by observing a few symptoms. But keeping track of those symptoms can help you provide your veterinarian with a clearer picture of what’s going on with your dog’s health.

Common Dog Allergy Symptoms

The most prevalent dog allergy symptom is itchy skin, which can be triggered by all three allergy types — flea, environmental, and food. 

But most dogs are prone to scratching from time to time, for a variety of reasons. So how can a concerned pet parent tell the difference between an inconsequential itch and itchy skin due to allergies? 

Intensity and persistence are two important clues. Dogs with allergies are often so itchy, their efforts to relieve the itch can lead to secondary symptoms, such as hair loss and skin infections.

The other indicator is the presence of additional dog allergy symptoms. Here’s a comprehensive list of dog allergy symptoms to keep in mind if you think your dog might have allergies. 

Dog allergy symptoms relating to skin:

• Red, itchy, inflamed skin
• Visible rashes or hives
• Excessive licking, scratching, or chewing of skin or paws
• Poor coat condition due to shedding, hair loss, or hot spots
• Itchy ears
• Unpleasant odor
• Skin infections

Other dog allergy symptoms: 

• Sneezing
• Runny, itchy eyes
• Ear infections
• Facial swelling
• Vomiting 
• Diarrhea
• Irritated anal glands, often accompanied by scooting 

None of these symptoms, on its own, is a surefire sign your dog has allergies. But if your dog is showing several symptoms, it’s worth raising the issue with your veterinarian to see if further testing or diagnosis is warranted. 

Diagnosing Allergies in Dogs

Veterinarians diagnose dogs with allergies all the time. According to Nationwide Pet Health Insurance, over the past decade, members have filed more claims for the treatment of skin allergies in dogs than any other health condition.

However, determining what, exactly, your dog is allergic to may take some detective work. And that usually starts with the skin. 

All three types of allergies can cause what veterinarians call allergic dermatitis (inflammation of the skin), which brings with it reddening, swelling, and itching. Often, the location of the most intense scratching and chewing may indicate what type of allergy could be causing the reaction.

• Dogs with flea allergies tend to chew relentlessly chew at the back of their hind legs and the base of their tail.
• Dogs with food allergies are more likely to lick and chew at their feet. 
• Dogs with environmental allergies often scratch their ears and experience general itchiness, although there can be variations. 

Again, these distinctions are not absolute, but they may provide clues to inform your dog’s diagnosis. Here are some additional dog allergy considerations.

Diagnosing Flea Allergies in Dogs

In addition to the itch response above, the presence of fleas, flea bites, or flea dirt on dogs who have scratched or chewed themselves raw is a strong indication of flea bite allergy. For dogs who are severely allergic to fleas, even one bite is enough to cause them to chew all the hair off their legs. In these cases, even if there are no signs of fleas, a veterinarian may still diagnose a flea allergy based on hair loss patterns and any history of incomplete flea prevention.

Diagnosing Food Allergies in Dogs

Diagnosing food allergies in dogs can be a bit more challenging. It often involves extended elimination diet trials, during which a dog must avoid all contact with common food allergens.

Common food allergens in dogs include proteins such as chicken, beef, pork, egg, soy, and dairy. Merely selecting a “limited ingredient diet” or one with alternative proteins like fish or venison may not suffice. Even limited diets contain many sources of protein, one of which may be an allergen. Also, there’s always a chance of cross-contamination with ingredients from other diets, depending on the manufacturing process. 

To achieve accurate results, veterinarians typically recommend a controlled elimination diet. These can last b between 8-12  weeks, during which dogs eat only a hypoallergenic diet prescribed by a veterinarian. These diets are produced in facilities that guarantee no cross-contamination, making them the gold standard for food restriction testing. After the elimination phase, specific protein sources are gradually reintroduced to identify the dog’s allergy. 

While there are blood tests available for diagnosing food allergies in dogs, they can be less accurate, which could lead to unnecessary food restrictions.(1)

Diagnosing Environmental Allergies in Dogs

Environmental allergies can also be more challenging to diagnose as dogs can be allergic to indoor allergens, outdoor allergens, or both. Providing a detailed history of your dog’s allergy symptoms can help when diagnosing environmental allergies, as the symptoms often change with the seasons. 

For example, dogs with mold allergies may be most itchy during winter, while those with pollen allergies may experience heightened discomfort in spring and summer. 

Physical location may also play a role. For example, if a dog with no history of allergies or itchy skin starts showing symptoms after moving to a different part of the country, veterinarians may suspect an environmental allergy.

There are both blood and skin exposure tests for environmental allergies, but many veterinarians use a dog’s response to treatment as a diagnostic tool, as well. 

It’s important to note that acute allergic reactions, such as bee stings, are distinct from allergies. Acute reactions characterized by local swelling, redness, and pain are diagnosed and treated differently. Hives in dogs are more likely to be associated with acute allergic reactions rather than allergic dermatitis. Acute allergic reactions are typically treated with injectable medications; once the swelling subsides, no further treatment is required.

Treatment for Allergies in Dogs

In most cases, dog allergy treatment focuses on managing the allergic response, rather than completely eliminating or curing the allergy. This means that while the symptoms can be minimized, the underlying allergy persists, and if treatment is stopped, the signs of allergy will return.

Since itchy skin is one of the most prevalent symptoms of dog allergies, most treatment plans involve medication targeting itch and inflammation relief. One common oral medication veterinarians often prescribe is Apoquel, a fast-acting allergy medication that starts controlling allergy itch in dogs within four hours.

Your veterinarian may recommend additional treatment options, depending on what’s causing a dog’s allergies.

Treating Food Allergies

For dogs diagnosed with food allergies, veterinarians typically recommend a diet that excludes the specific protein they are allergic to. This can be the same diet used during the elimination trial or a novel protein diet such as fish, venison, rabbit, or even kangaroo.

Treating Flea Allergies

Dogs with flea allergies should be on year-round effective prescription flea prevention, available in both chewable and topical forms. Some flea preventatives require the flea to bite the dog for the medication to be effective, while others repel fleas altogether. Combining these two categories of medication may be necessary for dogs severely affected by flea allergies since no preventative is 100 percent effective at all times.

Treating Environmental Allergies

Environmental allergies often require a wide range of treatment options due to their prevalence and diversity. Prescription options are available for dogs with more severe environmental allergies, including oral medication (Apoquel), injectable medication (Cytopoint), and allergy desensitization treatment (commonly known as “allergy shots“) available in both injectable and sublingual forms. Allergy shots are tailored specifically to your pet and may involve higher upfront costs.

Dogs with mild symptoms may benefit from over-the-counter human medications like diphenhydramine (Benadryl), cetirizine (Zyrtec), loratadine (select Claritin formulas), and others. 

However, avoid using decongestants or any products containing pseudoephedrine (like Claritin-D). Even small amounts of pseudoephedrine can be lethal to dogs.

Remember, it’s important to consult with your veterinarian before deciding on a treatment plan or administering any of these medications. Your vet can determine the most effective treatment plan for your dog’s specific allergies and symptoms, as well as the most effective dosage.

This is especially important in the case of over-the-counter medications, as the recommended dosages for humans may not be safe for pets. 

Dog Allergies: Pro Tips for Success 

In addition to medications, several measures can be taken at home to keep allergic dogs comfortable. If your dog is allergic to outdoor allergens, wiping their fur when they come inside, paying attention to the skin between and under their toes, can be helpful. Bathing them with a medicated shampoo every two weeks can also minimize allergy symptoms. Be sure to consult your veterinarian before using regular store-bought shampoos, as some can worsen allergies.

If your dog is scratching or licking their itchy skin raw, using an e-collar (cone of shame) or alternative can prevent them from further damaging their skin and developing a serious infection. This is particularly effective for dogs scratching at their ears or chewing their feet.

Dietary supplements rich in fish oils, ceramides, and other skin barrier protectants can also provide relief. For more recommendations, ask your veterinarian about whether prescription skin diets, supplements, or other options might help soothe your itchy dog.

While allergies in dogs cannot be completely cured, pet parents have many helpful options to help minimize discomfort and improve quality of life for allergic dogs. By tracking your dog’s allergy symptoms and consulting with your veterinarian on an effective treatment plan, you can ensure that your dog remains comfortable, healthy, and happy despite their allergies.

References

1. Jackson HA. Food allergy in dogs and cats; current perspectives on etiology, diagnosis, and management. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2023 Mar 18:1-7. doi: 10.2460/javma.22.12.0548

The post 14 Dog Allergy Symptoms You Shouldn’t Ignore appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Annual heartworm testing for dogs can help catch infections early and ensure safe and effective treatment. But what’s involved in a dog heartworm test and why is testing so important? Let’s dive in.   

What is a Dog Heartworm Test?

A dog heartworm test is an antigen test that requires collecting a small blood sample. Heartworm tests in dogs detect proteins that are unique to adult female heartworms. 

Heartworm tests for dogs are performed on small blood samples. If your dog is also having other blood tests performed, then your veterinarian will only collect one blood sample so your dog doesn’t have to have more than one needle stick. 

Does My Dog Need a Heartworm Test?

Heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes and is becoming very common in the United States. Adult heartworms live in a dog’s lungs where they cause damage to the lungs and the heart. Heartworm disease can be fatal, but typically dogs don’t show any symptoms in the early stages of the disease. 

Every dog in the United States should be tested for heartworm disease once a year and should be placed on heartworm prevention. Heartworm prevention should not be started (or re-started) without first confirming a dog’s heartworm status by testing for these deadly worms. The only exception is puppies less than 7 months of age—they can be started on heartworm prevention without a test. 

Dogs who have not been on heartworm prevention or who’s prevention has lapsed should be tested six months after re-starting heartworm prevention and again at one year. This includes dogs with unknown histories, such as those adopted through shelters and rescues.

Not that long ago, dogs in some parts of the United States were considered very low risk for contracting heartworms, and so veterinarians only recommended testing every two years. However, heartworm disease has been spreading rapidly across the United States, and so the recommendations have changed to annual testing and year-round prevention. 

A heartworm infection caught early, before there are any symptoms, is much easier to treat and your dog won’t be left with long-term consequences, such as damage to the heart and lungs. 

Types of Dog Heartworm Tests

There are several types of tests for heartworms in dogs that your veterinarian can perform. The most common test performed in a veterinary office is called a SNAP test. These are similar to an at-home COVID test. A SNAP heartworm test catches about 85 percent of mild cases of heartworm disease and is more accurate in dogs with more severe disease [1]. 

Testing for heartworms in dogs can also be performed at off-site laboratories. These tests are considered even more accurate than SNAP tests. Sometimes if your dog shows no symptoms of heartworm disease but tests positive on a SNAP test, the test will be confirmed at one of these types of laboratories. This is because the treatment for heartworms is expensive and has potential side effects, and therefore should not be administered unless necessary. 

Other types of dog heartworm tests include the filter method and a Modified Knott’s test. These tests detect microfilaria, or larval heartworms, that circulate in the blood. These are only present if adult heartworms in your dog have been there long enough to mate and produce offspring. These larval heartworms can be seen under a microscope as tiny wriggling worms just a few red blood cells in size. However, many dogs can be positive for heartworms without having microfilaria, so this is not considered a sensitive test and is not relied upon to determine whether a dog has heartworms. 

If a dog is found to be heartworm positive on a SNAP test, then your veterinarian may check for microfilaria to determine the stage of disease and select the best, most effective treatment plan. 

There are no accurate at-home heartworm tests for dogs. One of the main reasons is that accurate testing requires a blood sample, and that is not something most pet parents can or should collect at home. 

Dog Heartworm Testing Benefits

Heartworm tests for dogs are both inexpensive and highly accurate. These tests can either detect infection early before there is any disease, or show a negative result so that it’s safe to get your dog on proper heartworm prevention. 

Early heartworm detection means a better prognosis for your dog. This means your dog won’t suffer from shortness of breath, lethargy, weight loss, or any of the other signs of severe heartworm disease, such as cough and sudden collapse. And, if your dog is heartworm positive, then early treatment is safer, more effective, and can prevent the damage adult heartworms create in the lungs and heart.

Dog Heartworm Test Cost

Heartworm tests for the presence of adult heartworms cost between $10 and $100, depending on the type of test and whether it is added on to other tests already being performed or is being run as a stand-alone test. 

Heartworm tests added onto blood work that you are already purchasing is likely at the low end of this range. Testing done as an emergency due to symptoms consistent with heartworm disease are more expensive, especially if performed at an emergency clinic. 

Testing for microfilaria is in the range of $10-$50, because there are no special chemicals or special equipment required. You are paying for the knowledge of an experienced veterinary technician and their time at the microscope. 

The cost of annual testing, done every year for a dog’s 10-15+ year lifespan, is significantly less than the cost of heartworm treatment.

What if My Dog Tests Positive for Heartworm?

If your dog tests positive for heartworms, your veterinarian will discuss a plan. The first step is confirmation by a follow-up test. This might include a microfilaria test or a confirmatory lab test.  

Once your dog’s heartworm infection is confirmed, then your veterinarian will recommend a work-up to make sure they are healthy enough for treatment. This typically consists of blood work, including testing for anemia as well as assessing kidney and liver values. X-rays (radiographs) of your dog’s heart and lungs (thorax) are next. If your dog already has evidence of severe changes due to heartworm disease, then your veterinarian may recommend an alternative treatment or management plan.

Heartworm Treatment for Dogs

If you are lucky enough to have caught your dog’s heartworm infection early, then your veterinarian will follow the treatment plan recommended by the American Heartworm Society. 

This involves starting a medication called doxycycline that weakens the heartworms to make them easier to kill. Your vet may also prescribe oral steroids to minimize the reaction of your dog’s immune system to the dying and dead worms.

Heartworm treatment itself involves the injection of a very strong medication into muscle. This medication contains arsenic and must be handled carefully and injected only into the big muscles that run along your dog’s spine. 

You must limit your dog’s activity during treatment and for at least one month after. 

During treatment, your dog will be started (or re-started) on heartworm prevention to reduce the risk of new infections. Most types of heartworm prevention are safe to give to heartworm-positive dogs. However, you shouldn’t start or re-start heartworm prevention unless your veterinarian instructs you to do so. 

Nine months after the heartworm treatment, your vet will likely test for heartworms again to confirm that the treatment was successful.

References

1. Atkins CE. Comparison of results of three commercial heartworm antigen test kits in dogs with low heartworm burdens. J Am Vet Med Assoc. 2003 May 1;222(9):1221-3. doi: 10.2460/javma.2003.222.1221. PMID: 12725308. 

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Feline hyperthyroidism is nearly always caused by a benign (non-cancerous) tumor of the thyroid gland. While it can also be caused by cancerous thyroid tumors, thyroid carcinoma is far less common in cats. 

In both cases, veterinarians may recommend the medication methimazole to manage hyperthyroidism in cats, alone or as part of a broader treatment plan.

What is Methimazole?

Methimazole is an antithyroid thioamide that inhibits the formation of thyroid hormones. It is used to treat hyperthyroidism in both humans and animals.

Methimazole is available in both brand name and generic formulations. Of the branded options, only the formulation that goes by the brand name Felimazole is FDA-approved to treat hyperthyroidism in cats. Felimazole was granted approval by the FDA in May, 2009. 

Generic formulations of methimazole are considered extra-label, meaning they can be used at the discretion of your veterinarian. 

Is Methimazole Safe for Cats? 

Yes, methimazole is safe for adult cats, as long as they are not pregnant or nursing.

Methimazole is available for use in cats only with a prescription from your veterinarian. You can fill the prescription at a pharmacy or check with your veterinary clinic, as many keep methimazole in stock.

Because methimazole is also used in humans, it is generally widely available and inexpensive. 

What Does Methimazole for Cats Look Like?

Methimazole comes in liquid and tablet format for oral administration, as well as a transdermal gel that can be applied to and absorbed by a cat’s skin. 

Generic methimazole tablets are small, round, and white. There may be imprinted letters on the tablet. If there is a number imprinted on the tablet, it indicates the strength of the pill. Felimazole brand tablets are coated in a hard, shiny shell, which may be pink or orange, depending on the dose. 

The transdermal formulation of methimazole is a viscous gel that may appear clear or translucent. It comes in a metered dispenser for more accurate dosing.

What Is Methimazole Used For in Cats?

Methimazole is used to treat hyperthyroidism in cats, which occurs when the thyroid gland is overactive and produces more thyroid hormones than a cat’s body needs. 

Thyroid hormones are responsible for managing a cat’s metabolism, which is akin to the “energy engine” of the feline body. When thyroid hormone levels are elevated, it causes a cat’s body to run in “overdrive.” This imbalance puts a huge strain on a cat’s body and organs, which can cause severe illness, such as heart disease, and even death.

The most common symptom of hyperthyroidism reported by cat parents is weight loss despite an increase in appetite. Other signs of hyperthyroidism in cats include vomiting, increased thirst and urination, and changes in behavior. Your veterinarian may also notice a heart murmur, increased blood pressure, and enlargement of the thyroid gland.

How Does Methimazole Work?

Hyperthyroidism in cats is a progressive disease that requires lifelong management. As an antithyroid drug, Methimazole works by preventing the formation of thyroid hormones — specifically thyroxine (T4) and triiodothyronine (T3). This action is dose-dependent, so it can be adjusted to keep a cat’s thyroid hormones at the optimum level. 

Unfortunately, over time, cats are likely to require more methimazole to manage their hyperthyroidism. Over many years, the medication may eventually become ineffective or require a dose so high that it causes unwanted side effects.

Although thyroid carcinoma is rare, cats treated for hyperthyroidism are at increased risk for developing the cancerous disease. 

How to Give Methimazole to Cats

There are two different ways to give methimazole: by mouth (orally) and on the skin (transdermally). 

• Tablets and liquids should be given by mouth every 12 hours. It is okay to hide the tablet in a small amount of food. Tablets should not be crushed because that can alter absorption. If your cat resists tablets and liquids, talk to your veterinarian about transdermal formulations. 

• Transdermal gel should be given according to package instructions. The medication is typically applied to a hairless surface of your cat’s skin, such as the inner surface of the ear pinna (ear flap). Wear gloves when applying the medication. Alternate ears each dose and clean the other ear pinna with warm water and gentle soap to prevent build-up. 

Methimazole for Cats: Side Effects

There are many possible side effects of methimazole that you may notice at home. These include:

• not eating (anorexia)
• vomiting
• weight loss
• weight gain
• itchiness (especially of the face)
• weakness
• lethargy

Cats are most likely to show signs of such side effects during the first month of treatment, and these often resolve over time. 

Cats with gastrointestinal upset as a result of methimazole may tolerate transdermal formulations without side effects. 

Changes to a cat’s organ function may also occur, including inflammation of the liver (hepatitis) and decrease in kidney function. Although it is rare, some cats can develop blood abnormalities when taking methimazole, in which case the medication should be discontinued. 

Symptoms of Too Much Methimazole in Cats

It’s important to note that any side effects that may stem from giving your cat methimazole are not dose-dependent. That means that you cannot rely on symptoms of overdose to determine if your cat is taking too much of the drug.

Thyroid values should be monitored regularly by a veterinarian to make sure your cat’s dose is appropriate. 

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

Administration of methimazole with phenobarbital or anticoagulant medications may decrease their efficacy. Some parasite preventatives should not be given with methimazole. Cats who are on some medications before starting methimazole may need to adjust their dose after their thyroid disease is controlled. These include theophylline, blood pressure medications, and certain heart medications. 

Methimazole Dosage for Cats 

Methimazole for cats is dosed based on individual response. Most cats are started on a low dose and increased slowly following serial blood testing of thyroid levels. The goal is to keep total thyroid hormone (T4) within the normal range. There is no defined maximum dose for methimazole in cats. However, if methimazole is not effective for your cat, your veterinarian may recommend alternative treatments.

What if My Cat Misses a Dose of Methimazole?

If your cat misses a dose of methimazole, give the next dose at the appropriate time. Do not double doses or give doses too close together to compensate for the missed dose. 

If your cat misses a dose within 1 week of a planned thyroid level testing, alert your veterinarian as the missed dose may alter results.

Alternatives to Methimazole for Cats

If your cat develops side effects from methimazole or their disorder does not respond to the medication, talk to your veterinarian about alternative treatments for hyperthyroidism. These include:

I-131 radiotherapy – Injection of radioactive iodine that destroys the thyroid gland. This treatment is used in both humans and animals to cure hyperthyroidism.

Surgical thyroidectomy – Surgery to remove the enlarged thyroid gland, which eliminates the disease.

Iodine-free diet – Therapeutic diet for cats made without iodine and available by prescription only. This will not cure hyperthyroidism in cats, but can be used to manage the disease provided cats are restricted to a prescription, iodine-free diet only.

Cost of Methimazole for Cats

Generic methimazole tablets are inexpensive and can be purchased directly through your veterinarian or a prescription to a human pharmacy. A month of tablets will cost $5-50. 

Liquid and transdermal formulations may be more expensive at $40-75 per month.

Methimazole Storage Instructions

Methimazole should be stored at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, in a sealed container unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. 

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Let’s take a closer look at the causes and signs of cat stomach cancer and how to treat this condition.

What is Cat Stomach Cancer?

Stomach cancer refers to abnormal growth of cells or tissue within the stomach. The medical term is gastric neoplasia. The types of cancer that develop in other organs of the body can also develop in the stomach. The most common type of stomach cancer in cats is lymphoma (lymphosarcoma). It can be part of generalized (diffuse) gastrointestinal lymphoma, which is a much more common form of cancer in cats, or it can be found on its own. 

Other more rare types of gastric cancer in cats include gastric adenocarcinoma, leiomyoma, leiomyosarcoma, gastrointestinal stromal tumor, adenoma, mast cell tumor, carcinoma, extramedullary plasmacytoma, and other sarcomas. The name of the cancer has to do with the type of cells the cancer originated from.

There are no risks associated with breed or sex. There are no known genetic risk factors for gastric neoplasia in cats. The average age at diagnosis is greater than 12 years (2).

Causes of Stomach Cancer in Cats

The cause of stomach cancer in cats is generally unknown. Cats who have gastrointestinal lymphoma are more likely to develop gastric lymphoma as the disease spreads. Similarly, inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) can become gastric or gastrointestinal lymphoma over time. Although there are lifestyle choices including diet and exercise that are known to affect risk of gastric neoplasia in humans, similar associations have not been found in cats.

Stomach Cancer in Cats Symptoms

The symptoms of stomach cancer in cats tend to be the same group of symptoms cats exhibit for a long list of other illnesses and diseases that range from mild to severe. These include:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Not eating (anorexia or inappetence)
• Weight loss
• Lethargy
• Changes in behavior (hiding, not seeking out attention, etc.)

These are also the symptoms of inflammation or infection of the stomach or intestines, parasites, and other illnesses such as endocrine and metabolic disease. If there is ulceration of the gastric tumor, there may be blood in the vomit or the stool may be dark and tarry (melena). 

Stomach cancer in humans is painful and so it is assumed that the condition is also painful in cats. Cats may show their pain by not eating, having less energy, and being less social or hiding.

Cat Stomach Cancer Stages and Progression 

Cancer is often described in stages based on the spread of the cancer to other locations in the body and whether the pet is ill at the time of diagnosis. Cancer can also be described in grades based on the aggressiveness of the tumor on the local tissue, likelihood of spread, likelihood of recurrence after surgery or chemotherapy, and consequences of its presence. The stage and grade of a cancer are not specific to its original location, such as the stomach, but rather depend on the type of cancer it is. 

In the case of gastric lymphoma, the most common type of stomach cancer in cats, it is most often high-grade, meaning aggressive and less likely to fully respond to chemotherapy. Since risk factors for its development include other gastrointestinal inflammation or cancer, gastric lymphoma is most often late-stage by the time of diagnosis, having spread from or to other tissues in the body. 

Diagnosing Feline Stomach Cancer

The first step in diagnosing any disease in a cat is a physical exam. This involves a detailed examination of all parts of the cat’s body to assess for abnormalities. Most often the physical exam is normal or non-specific for cats with symptoms of stomach cancer. Non-specific exam findings include evidence of dehydration, weight loss, pale gums, and/or lethargy. It is rare for a veterinarian to be able to feel stomach cancer on abdominal palpation in cats.

The next important step in diagnosis is blood work. A cat with stomach cancer may have anemia, elevated blood nitrogen levels, low protein, or their blood work could be normal. Next, abdominal ultrasound can be useful in finding a tumor or abnormalities of the tissues of the stomach. Sometimes a small needle sample (aspirate) can be taken at the time of the ultrasound and analyzed under a microscope for the presence of cancer cells. Abdominal ultrasound has the advantage of assessing all of the abdominal organs for evidence of cancer spread (metastasis). Alternatively, gastroscopy can be performed where a tiny camera is inserted into the stomach to visually examine the tissue and a biopsy sample can be taken. Occasionally, exploratory abdominal surgery will be required to diagnose stomach cancer in cats. 

X-rays are not usually diagnostic for stomach cancer, although the addition of contrast material can outline a mass if there is one. They may be part of the diagnostic testing work-up for cats with gastrointestinal symptoms, so it is not wrong for your veterinarian to recommend them. While the X-rays are not likely to show cancer, they are helpful in eliminating other possible causes of your cat’s symptoms.

Cat Stomach Cancer Treatment Options

Treatment options for cats with stomach cancer include surgery and chemotherapy. Most often surgery will be performed first to remove the bulk of the mass and then chemotherapy will be used to treat any cancer left behind or any cancer that has already metastasized. Some types of cancer, such as lymphoma, may be treated with chemotherapy only. 

Cost to Treat Stomach Cancer in Cats

Specific costs depend on the types of treatment(s) recommended for your cat. Initial diagnostic tests may be in the range of $1,000-3,000, depending on which tests are performed. Abdominal ultrasound is less expensive than gastroscopy. Surgery to remove gastric neoplasia should be performed by a board-certified veterinary surgeon and will cost $4,000-$7,000, depending on the specific type of surgery required. A round of chemotherapy is in the range of $3,500 to $6,000.

Prognosis for Stomach Cancer in Cats

Without treatment, a cat will die from the cancer or its side effects within about one month. Specific prognosis with treatment depends on the type of cancer. Gastric lymphoma, for example, has a survival of 6-18 months, depending on response to chemotherapy. Stomach cancer is a very serious disease in cats and in general, the long-term prognosis is poor.

There is no way to prevent stomach cancer in cats.

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While the idea of dog surgery may leave some pet parents feeling worried or overwhelmed, the important thing to know is that TPLO surgery is common, has a high success rate, and has returned many dogs to a pain-free active lifestyle.

Here’s a helpful overview of everything you need to know about TPLO surgery, what you can expect if your dog needs this surgical intervention, and some post-op tips to help your dog recover.

What is TPLO Surgery in Dogs?

In dogs, the CCL is equivalent to the anterior cruciate ligament (ACL) in humans. However, whereas humans with a torn ACL might undergo surgery to repair or reconstruct it, dog ACL injuries don’t get the same treatment. CCL repair and reconstruction don’t work for four-legged animals.

Instead, a veterinarian may recommend TPLO surgery for dogs with a torn or injured CCL. In the simplest terms, a dog’s CCL keeps the knee joint (stifle) stable and working properly. When damaged, bending the knee causes a dog’s thigh bone (femur) and shin bone (tibia) to slide painfully out of place. TPLO surgery reconfigures the way a dog’s knee works, stabilizing the bones so that the leg can bend properly and painlessly, even without a CCL. 

To accomplish this, a veterinary surgeon changes the angle (level) of the joint surface (tibial plateau) by cutting into the tibia bone (osteotomy) and repositioning the resulting bone segment. This creates a more stable joint by changing the way the quadriceps (thigh) muscle acts on the tibia (shin bone).

Like most surgeries, there are some risks associated with TPLO surgery in dogs. So it is typically recommended for dogs where the potential benefits are greater than the risks. There are several factors veterinary surgeons consider before deciding if a dog is a good candidate for TPLO surgery. These include weight, activity level, and age. 

In years past, TPLO was considered a surgery most appropriate for larger dogs (more than 50 pounds). However, smaller dogs (less than 30 pounds) who have undergone the procedure do very well in both the short and long term. 

Alternatives to TPLO Surgery in Dogs 

Several other surgical procedures can also be used to treat CCL damage. The choice of techniques is based on the surgeon’s preference and experience, as well as the dog’s specific injury.

Other procedures that can be used to treat instability in the knee joint created by a partially or fully torn CCL in dogs include:

• Tibial Tuberosity Advancement (TTA) is a procedure similar to a TPLO, except that a linear cut is made in the tibia to achieve the change in the angle of the quadriceps attachment. 
• CORA-Based Leveling Osteotomy (CBLO) is a newer modification of the TPLO procedure that may be appropriate for younger dogs who are still growing. 
• Extra-capsular suture stabilization procedures do not involve cutting into the bone. These techniques attempt to stabilize the joint by using heavy nylon or metal suture material to mimic the function of the CCL. This type of surgery may be most appropriate for smaller, older, or less active animals. 
• Tightrope CCL surgery is a technique that uses suture stabilization similar to extra-capsular techniques, but drills holes through both the femur and tibia to place the suture in a more anatomic position to achieve stabilization. 

While non-surgical solutions, such as pain management, directed activity, physical rehabilitation, and weight management, may help ease the discomfort of CCL injuries in dogs, these tactics do not address the underlying condition. For long-term health and mobility, the sooner surgery is performed, the better the outcome for your pet.

What Does TPLO Surgery for Dogs Involve? 

If your dog has a torn CCL and TPLO is merited, here’s what you can expect.

Before TPLO Surgery 

First, your veterinarian will want to confirm whether your dog’s limping is due to a CCL tear with a thorough orthopedic exam, which may involve sedation as some of the joint manipulation required may be painful.

The veterinarian will also take X-rays (radiographs) to assess the degree of inflammation inside the joint, confirm there are no other issues involved, and determine the angle of the tibial plateau. This helps the surgeon calculate the measurements needed for surgery, including how much the bone segment needs to be rotated. 

Most surgeons require your pet to have recent bloodwork confirming they are healthy enough for anesthesia and medications. Your veterinarian will also want your dog’s skin to be healthy before the procedure because unhealthy skin does not heal well and increases your dog’s risk for surgical infection. 

Day of TPLO Surgery

On the day of the procedure, your dog will receive pre-operative pain medication and anesthesia. Your dog’s leg will also be shaved all the way past the hip and down to the ankle before heading into the operating room. 

To start, the surgeon will make an incision on the outside of the leg near the knee. Using a small camera or the naked eye, they will inspect the knee joint, removing the meniscus — cartilage within the knee joint — if it is damaged.

The surgeon then moves the tissue and muscles at the top of the tibia out of the way to make a curved cut at the top of the tibia. This segment, the tibial plateau, is then rotated to a position that provides more stability, so the bones don’t slip when the knee is bent. then reattached with a plate and surgical screws. 

Finally, the surgeon sutures the muscles back together over the plate and closes the incision with sutures or surgical staples. All of this takes about 1-2 hours for an experienced veterinary surgeon. 

After TPLO Surgery

After the surgery is complete, but before the dog emerges from anesthesia, more X-rays are taken to confirm the new joint angle. If the surgeon is not satisfied, they will return to the operating room and alter the angle of the osteotomy segment. Some facilities can perform these X-rays in the operating room before closing the incision. 

Benefits of TPLO Surgery for Dogs

Likelihood of success. TPLO surgery for CCL tears in dogs has a very high success rate. According to one study, dogs that underwent the TPLO procedure regained 93 percent of knee function one year after the surgery. (1) 

Fast recovery. Compared to other corrective surgeries, TPLO has a speedy recovery rate. Within four months, most dogs can walk and play normally. Within six months, most can resume full activity, even strenuous play.

Reduced risk of arthritis. Researchers studying the long-term impact of TPLO on osteoarthritis in dogs found that dogs treated with TPLO had fewer pain and mobility issues due to osteoarthritis than dogs treated with other surgeries, such as han alternative procedures, like Tibial Tuberosity Advancement (TTA). (2)

Drawbacks of TPLO Surgery for Dogs

Not all dogs are eligible. Some dogs may not be considered good candidates for TPLO surgery due to age, weight, or other health issues. This is why it is so important to discuss your dog’s full medical history with a veterinary surgeon to determine the best way to address your dog’s damaged CCL. 

Risk of complications. As with any surgical procedure, TPLO surgery does come with some risks. One study found that 10-34 percent of TPLO procedures report complications. (3) The most common complications are considered minor, such as infection of the incision or post-operative swelling. Though less common, major complications include bone infection (osteomyelitis) which might require removal of the surgical plate and screws.

Re-injury during recovery. It’s crucial to monitor your dog closely after TPLO surgery and follow post-operative instructions to ensure the best chance of recovery. Otherwise, your dog could chew out their sutures because they aren’t wearing a cone or fracture their surgical implant due to exercising too soon.

And even if your dog recovers from TPLO surgery beautifully, it’s important to note that about half of the dogs who tear their CCL in one knee will injure the CCL in the other leg within a few years. So you may not be out of the woods yet.

Dog TPLO Surgery Cost

TPLO is a specialized surgery that should only be performed by board-certified veterinary surgeons. Their training and experience, combined with the cost of the equipment required, means this surgery is a somewhat pricey (yet worthy) investment in your pet’s long-term health. 

The average cost for surgery with hospital stay and follow-up visits ranges between $4,000 to $7,000 range. Complications during or after surgery can boost that figure even higher. 

And don’t forget about the costs you may incur during your dog’s recovery period. Physical therapy is highly recommended following TPLO surgery and typically costs around $500 to $1,000. 

TPLO Surgery Recovery in Dogs

Following TPLO surgery, it may take a few hours for the effects of the anesthesia to wear off. Some dogs spend a night at the animal hospital for monitoring and pain management from veterinary professionals. Once your pet leaves the hospital, their recovery is up to you. 

Your pet will be discharged from the hospital wearing an e-collar (also known as the “cone of shame”) to prevent them from licking at the incision as this can lead to infection or opening of the wound.

The veterinarian may also prescribe several types of medications to assist in your dog’s recovery. These will vary, depending on your dog’s overall health, general energy level, and other factors that can impact recovery success. It’s important to give these medications exactly as directed. If for some reason you are unable to give the medication call the veterinarian’s office right away for further instructions. 

Keys to TPLO Recovery: Rest, Caution, Patience

Most veterinarians advise 6 to 8 weeks of rest following surgery to give dogs time to heal. Returning to activity too early or without a gradual increase in intensity could undo the benefit of TPLO surgery and put you back at square one.

Your veterinarian will monitor your dog’s progress and provide a plan for resuming certain activities, as well as physical rehabilitation with a veterinary PT specialist, when they deem your dog ready. 

This may take some time, so be prepared to keep a close watch on your healing pup. It’s very likely your dog will think they’re ready for more activity before the veterinarian OKs it.

If, despite your best efforts, your dog jumps up onto the couch instead of waiting to be lifted or lunges after a squirrel, don’t despair. Accidents happen. But do call your veterinarian or surgeon for help determining what impact this might have on the healing process. 

They may recommend X-rays to make sure the bone and implant are where they should be. Or they may prescribe sedatives to help keep your dog subdued so they can heal properly. 

Repeat infractions, such as running, jumping, or other strenuous activities will disrupt healing and could lead to TPLO failure. So keep an eye out for symptoms that recovery is not going according to plan. These include worsening limp, lethargy, swelling of the knee, and discharge from the incision site.

However, if you (and your pup!) stick closely to your veterinarian’s proscribed recovery plan, your pet should be able to return to normal activity within about 6 months. 

How to Care for Your Dog After TPLO Surgery

To give your dog the best chance for a full recovery, here are some tips for success:

• Remember: Follow-care is as important as the surgery itself. Adhere closely to the post-op instructions about activity restriction, pain management, and follow-up appointments. 
• Stay in close communication with your veterinarian and surgeon to resolve questions or complications as they arise. You can always email pictures or videos of your dog’s incision or leave voicemails to make sure recovery is going smoothly. 
• Don’t overlook the importance of physical rehabilitation, which has been proven to improve recovery and restoration of mobility. Yes, it’s another expense. But it’s pointless to invest in the surgery and then skimp on recovery. Plus, physical rehabilitation is becoming more available at both specialty and primary veterinary clinics.
• Gradual return to activity means just that. Slowly add exercise back into your dog’s routine, under the advice of your veterinarian or surgeon. As your dog progresses, keep in mind that swimming, or even walking in shallow water, can be a great low-impact exercise. But be sure to clear it with your vet or surgeon, first.  
• Not only do overweight dogs face an increased risk of CCL injuries, but those extra pounds also make healing from TPLO surgery more difficult because of the strain they put on the joint as it heals. Anything you can do to help your dog maintain a healthy weight during recovery helps improve their long-term health and mobility. 

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Most dogs with diabetes require insulin injections every 12 hours. Unlike in diabetic people, we do not try to achieve normal blood sugar levels (70-130) in dogs. Rather, the goal is to keep blood sugar levels below harmful amounts (as high as upper 200’s depending on the pet). While there are several reasons behind this more conservative use of insulin in dogs, the dangers of low blood sugar are among the most serious. Low blood sugar can quickly cause seizures, coma, and death.

Since both high and low blood sugar levels are dangerous, your veterinarian will want to regularly measure the effects of your dog’s insulin dose on their blood sugar to make sure it neither drops too low nor stays too high. A glucose curve for dogs is a day-long procedure that can help veterinarians understand your dog’s response to insulin. The results of the glucose curve are used to assess and improve control of your dog’s diabetes and are a very important part of diabetes management for dogs. 

What is a Glucose Curve for Dogs?

A glucose curve for a diabetic dog is a series of blood sugar (blood glucose or BG) measurements starting before a meal and insulin dose and repeated throughout a 12 or 24 hour period. Blood glucose is measured every 1-2 hours. The goal is to determine how well the dog is responding to the current dose of insulin.

In a typical curve the blood glucose will immediately go up after a meal then decrease as the insulin takes effect. Then as the insulin wears off again the blood glucose will rise until the next meal and insulin dose. The exact pattern or shape of this curve depends on the type of insulin, the dose, and how well the individual dog responds to insulin. Your veterinarian uses the information obtained in a glucose curve to adjust insulin levels and make other recommendations such as dietary changes. It is very important not to change your dog’s insulin dose without consulting your veterinarian first.

Most of the time a glucose curve is performed in your veterinarian’s clinic. However, some pet parents are comfortable performing blood glucose sampling at home with a small hand-held unit (glucometer) very similar to the ones human diabetics use. Glucometers are relatively inexpensive and readily available ($50-$100 plus refill test strips). The procedure is the same, with blood sampling every 1-2 hours. Pet parents send the results to their veterinarian after the full curve has been collected. The veterinarian then interprets the glucose curve and recommends changes to the insulin dose if necessary.

Although insulin is used commonly it is a very dangerous drug. Too much insulin can lead to low blood sugar which can cause collapse, seizures, and even death. Too little insulin and it will be ineffective, putting dogs at risk for abnormal metabolism which can also be fatal if untreated. This is why it is very important to regularly perform glucose curve tests to make sure a dog’s insulin dose is effective.

Continuous Glucose Monitoring for Dogs

Until recently, each measurement of blood glucose required drawing blood and immediately testing it in either a hand-held glucose monitor designed for canine blood samples or in a large blood analyzer found in most veterinary clinics. 

In the past few years continuous glucose monitors have become available for dogs. Continuous glucose monitors are flat, golf-ball sized patches that are adhered to an area of a dog’s skin. Glucose levels can be read with a hand-held scanner or phone app as frequently as is required for up to 2 weeks. Though these have the advantage of being less invasive, they may not be as accurate as blood glucose testing. The device can be expensive, up to $300 per monitor. The scanner can be purchased and reused for future glucose curves or may be rented from your veterinarian.

Blood Glucose Curve for Dogs: What to Expect

A glucose curve is a scheduled procedure with your veterinarian. It is important that your dog have a fairly typical day the day before. This means they should eat at their normal times, have their normal walks and other activities, and receive their prescribed dose of insulin. If your dog does not eat, vomits or has diarrhea, misses an insulin dose, or shows any signs of illness call your veterinarian to reschedule the glucose curve. Your veterinarian may still want to see your pet to determine the cause of their illness. But since illness affects metabolism and blood glucose levels the glucose curve should be postponed if your dog is sick.

On the day of the glucose curve your veterinarian will have you withhold food and insulin until you are at the clinic and baseline blood glucose is assessed. If your dog will not eat at the veterinary clinic or there are other extenuating circumstances, your veterinarian may instruct you to feed and administer insulin before arrival at the clinic. Otherwise, bring your dog’s breakfast and insulin with you. You should prepare to spend about 1 hour at the veterinary clinic in the morning. After breakfast your dog will remain at the clinic for 12 or 24 hours.

Small blood samples are taken every 1-2 hours to measure glucose concentration in blood. Some veterinarians will place an IV catheter and draw blood from it while others will use very small needles to draw blood samples from the paw or ear. The specifics will depend on many factors including your dog’s overall health, any other illnesses, and veterinarian preference.

When the glucose curve is completed you can pick up your dog and return to a normal eating and dosing schedule. Your veterinarian will call you within several days of the glucose curve to discuss the results and make any recommendations.

f your dog’s insulin schedule is not morning and evening, for example if you work non-standard hours and dose insulin at 2pm and 2am, then your veterinarian will likely recommend either a continuous glucose monitor for home testing or having a glucose curve performed at a 24-hour veterinary facility that is able to accommodate your dog’s insulin schedule.

Glucose curves will need to be repeated at least every 6 months for dogs with well-controlled diabetes. If changes are made to your dog’s insulin dose after a glucose curve your veterinarian will want to repeat the glucose curve at this new dose in 2-4 weeks.

How Much Does a Glucose Curve Cost?

The cost of a glucose curve will vary between veterinarians and also based on the length of the curve (12 vs 24 hours) and type of sampling (blood collection vs continuous monitor). A range from $150 to $500 is average, although some glucose curves may cost more.

Performing a Dog Glucose Curve at Home: What to Know

If you and your veterinarian are comfortable with it, it is possible to perform a glucose curve at home. This can be especially useful for dogs who are very fearful or uncooperative at the veterinarian’s office. The procedure is the same, with sampling every 1 or 2 hours for 12 or 24 hours. A glucose curve can also be collected at home after a continuous glucose monitor is placed on your dog by the veterinarian. In either case, you send the numbers to your veterinarian for analysis.

Even if you perform a glucose curve at home, do not make changes to your dog’s insulin dose unless instructed by your veterinarian. While the blood glucose measurements you collected are important in determining whether changes need to be made, there are other factors involved as well including your pet’s other health challenges, health history, method of sample collection, and type of insulin your dog is on.

Dog Blood Glucose Curve Results: What They Mean

The results of your dog’s glucose curve tell your veterinarian how well their diabetes is controlled. If all of the numbers are too high that means that your dog may need more insulin, a different type of insulin, or to have other changes made in their lifestyle such as diet type or changes to other medications. An inconsistent curve, or one where the lowest number is too low, could mean that your dog is getting too much insulin.

Diabetes is a very complex disease because of all of the ways blood glucose levels influence overall metabolism in the body. Regularly assessing blood glucose curves helps your veterinarian make sure your dog stays healthy despite their diabetes.

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In fact, urinary accidents are one of the most common signs of urinary tract infections (UTI) and bladder stones in dogs. If this is the case, instead of a time out, your dog may need a trip to the vet.

What Are Bladder Stones?

Bladder stones are collections of mineral crystals that develop in the bladder or lower urinary tract. The medical term for these stones is “urolith,” which refers to a stone within the urine that may be in the bladder or urethra.

Kidney stones (nephroliths) may be formed of the same minerals as bladder stones, but they are found in the kidney or occasionally the ureter (the tube that connects the kidney to the bladder). Most kidney stones do not cause problems in dogs unless the stone blocks the urine from flowing out of the kidney or leads to repeated urinary tract infections.

For a serious illness, bladder stones are fairly common in dogs. While urinary tract infections are much more common, bladder stones occur frequently enough in dogs that family veterinarians are very experienced in treating them. 

What Causes Bladder Stones in Dogs?

Microscopic mineral crystals are often found in urine and may never become a problem. However, when conditions are right – such as higher acidity of urine, incomplete emptying of the bladder, and low water intake – these crystals may form into stones. Unless conditions in the bladder change, the stones will continue to multiply and grow.

Some types of bladder stones develop because of the way the body processes proteins and minerals. As these metabolic processes are under genetic control, there are known genetic risk factors for specific types of bladder stones in many dog breeds.

Types of Bladder Stones in Dogs

There are several types of bladder stones that are common in dogs, each named based on the mineral that is most prevalent. By far the most common are struvite (magnesium ammonium phosphate) and calcium oxalate.

These types of stones account for about 90 percent of all bladder stones in dogs, with struvite stones being more prevalent in females and calcium oxalate stones being more prevalent in males.

Struvite bladder stones in dogs are most often associated with urinary tract infections, which is why female dogs are at much higher risk for their development. (Male dogs are at low risk for urinary tract infections due to their long, narrow urethra that acts as a barrier to bacteria reaching the bladder.) Specifically, females with hooded vulvas or those who are obese and unable to clean themselves properly are more prone to UTIs. 

Breed Risk of Bladder Stones in Dogs

As mentioned above, there are certain breeds that are genetically more at risk for certain types of bladder stones [1]. 

Some breeds that are at increased risk for struvite stones include:

• Bichon Frise
• Miniature Schnauzer
• Pekingese
• Pug
• Shih-tzu
• Lhasa Apso

Breeds at increased risk for calcium oxalate stones include:

• Standard Poodle
• Miniature Schnauzer (both male and female)
• Pomeranian
• Brussels Griffon
• Miniature Pinscher
• Maltese
• Bichon Frise
• Yorkshire Terrier

Beyond these two most common types of stones, we’ve broken down a few others types of bladder stones that may arise in dogs, as well as the breeds that are at higher risk for them:

• Urate
  • Dalmatian
  • English Bulldog
  • Pitbull

• Cysteine
  • Australian Cattle Dog
  • French Bulldog
  • English Bulldog
  • Rottweiler
  • Pitbull
  • Mastiff

• Silica
  • Australian Shepherd
  • Border Collie
  • Golden Retriever
  • Pug
  • German Shepherd

• Xanthine
  • Dalmatian
  • Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
  • Toy Manchester Terrier
  • English Cocker Spaniel
  • Dachshund
  • Chihuahua 

Symptoms of Bladder Stones in Dogs

Symptoms of bladder stones in dogs are similar to those of UTIs and other types of lower urinary disease. Most often pet parents notice that their dog needs to urinate more frequently, will attempt to urinate frequently on walks, or is straining to urinate. Having urinary accidents in the house is also a sign of lower urinary disease, as is foul smelling urine and urine with blood in it. 

Urinary disease is painful, especially in the abdominal area, and dogs may show signs of pain by hunching their backs, not wanting to be pet, or otherwise being protective of their bellies. If left untreated, dogs can become very ill from their lower urinary disease and may vomit, have diarrhea, be lethargic, or not want to eat. 

If a dog is unable to urinate for 12 hours or more despite trying, they may have a urinary obstruction, which is fatal if left untreated. This is a medical emergency and you should seek veterinary attention immediately.  

Diagnosing Bladder Stones in Dogs

Most bladder stones are diagnosed through a combination of urine testing and X-rays. Occasionally it is possible for a veterinarian to feel bladder stones on a physical exam. Your veterinarian will also assess the size of the bladder, pain associated with it, and overall physical health. Urine testing can tell your veterinarian what type(s) of stones your dog has, which is important information because different types of stones require different treatments. 

Most, but not all, types of bladder stones are visible on X-rays, which can show the size, shape, location, and relative quantity (one, a few, or many) of the stones. Some bladder stones are not visible on an X-ray and require an abdominal ultrasound to confirm their presence. Bloodwork is also useful in forming a complete diagnosis and designing a tailored treatment plan.

Bladder Stones in Dogs Treatment

Veterinarians treat bladder stones with medical or surgical management. Medical management may include antibiotics for a concurrent urinary tract infection, anti-inflammatory pain control, and a prescription diet that dissolves existing stones and reduces the risk of new ones developing. 

Your veterinarian can write your pup a prescription for a urinary dissolution diet, and there are several companies that make prescription dog food, including Royal Canin, Hill’s, Purina, and Blue Buffalo. If your dog is prescribed this kind of diet, they should stay on it for the rest of their life unless specifically directed otherwise by a veterinarian.

Urate, xanthine, and silica stones may have different treatment protocols. Dogs with urate stones may be placed on medication called allopurinol and started on a vegetarian diet. Dogs with xanthine stones may also be started on a vegetarian diet, and dogs with silica stones should be offered purified water and given a specific limited-ingredient diet low in silica.

Depending on the size and type, some bladder stones in dogs are treated with surgical removal during a procedure called a cystoscopy.  Calcium oxalate stones, for example, are not dissolvable with diet and typically require surgery, which involves going in through the abdomen, making an incision in the bladder, and scooping out the stones. The surgery can be complicated by stones stuck in the urethra, especially in male dogs. 

Once the stones are removed, a sample is sent out for analysis so that a long-term treatment or prevention plan can be designed. Dogs who have surgery will also be placed on prescription diets to reduce the risk of recurrence.

Lithotripsy (laser treatment to dissolve bladder stones) is not routinely performed in dogs but may be recommended for some ureteral, urethral, and kidney stones, or in dogs with other complicating medical issues.

There are no effective home remedies for bladder stones. Over-the-counter supplements, such as those containing cranberry extract or other plant derivatives, are not effective at treating bladder stones or symptoms in dogs. If your dog is displaying signs of a urinary problem, it is best to take them to a veterinarian as soon as possible.

Cost to Treat Bladder Stones in Dogs

The cost of bladder stone care in dogs depends on the treatment. 

When it comes to prescription diets, the size of your dog and how much they eat factor into the cost. A 20 lb bag of food or case of 24 cans can range from $90 to $150, regardless of which brand you and your veterinarian select. These diets are also part of the long-term treatment and prevention plans for most types of bladder stones in dogs, so the cost will be ongoing.

The cost of surgery is typically in the range of $2,000 to $5,000, depending on whether your primary veterinarian or a specialist surgeon performs the procedure, how complicated the stone removal is, and how quickly your pup recovers. If the surgery is performed as an emergency due to stones preventing your dog from urinating, it will be more expensive. Similarly, if the urethra has ruptured, the cost of surgery will increase and involvement of a surgical specialist is usually required at that point.

How to Prevent Bladder Stones in Dogs

Bladder stones are not fully preventable. However, making sure your dog always has access to plenty of clean, fresh water can be helpful in reducing the likelihood of stone developing. Similarly, regular bathroom breaks, such as walks that are long enough to ensure your dog fully empties his bladder, can also help reduce the risk of bladder stones.

For dogs with a history of urinary crystals or bladder stones, a special prescription diet can reduce the risk of recurrence. There is no known benefit of dissolution diets for dogs without a history of bladder stones.

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Hard to resist. But giving in to a begging dog can lead to real problems for you and your pooch. This can range from pesky, unwanted behaviors to medical issues like canine obesity stemming from eating too many table scraps and treats.

Fortunately, stopping a dog from begging isn’t complicated. It just takes a little patience and a few simple steps. Here’s what you need to know about dog begging.

Why Do Dogs Beg?

To figure out why dogs beg, it might be best to first ask—what do dogs beg for? In general, dogs beg for three things: food, toys, and attention/play.

In other words, dogs don’t beg to be annoying and they don’t do it for any complex, social, or evolutionary reasons. They do it “because they want something,” says certified animal behaviorist Yody Blass, owner and director of Companion Animal Behavior in Virginia. 

Blass says the old-school way of thinking about begging behaviors in dogs usually got around to theories about wolves, dominance, and submission, but there isn’t much backing up those theories these days. The truth, she says, is a little more basic: your dog begs because begging works.

“A big part of it is people letting it happen,” Blass says. “Over time, dogs learn what they can and can’t get away with.”

What Does Dog Begging Look Like?

Your dog is smart—and he knows how to game you when he wants something. That usually means he’s figured out that being adorable works. “If we have the goods and they want the goods, they’re going to be cute,” Blass says. “They know how to work us.”

The cute stuff is tough to resist but easy to spot—big, wet eyes, droopy ears, wagging tail, a gentle paw on your lap, maybe a pleading whimper.

But not all behaviors are cute and, left unchecked, dog begging behaviors at the dinner table can escalate to more nuisance or even assertive behaviors, such as:

• Yipping
• Barking
• Nipping 
• Jumping 
• Excessive pawing
• Grabbing food behind your back

Your dog’s breed and natural temperament likely play a role in what types of begging behaviors he exhibits, Blass says.

Keep in mind that not all begging is about food. Sometimes your dog begs because he wants to play. Sometimes he wants to go outside. Sometimes he just wants your attention. “Anything dogs want to do, they have their ways of begging for it,” says Phyllis Beasley, a certified professional dog trainer and owner of Praise Dog!Training in South Carolina.

What’s important to remember is something all dog parents occasionally forget—your dog can’t talk like a human. So he needs to get his message across however he can. 

If he’s begging for something other than food, he might stare at his leash waiting for a walk, or stand by the back door hoping to be let out. Sometimes he might boop you with his nose or try to get you to follow him. Pet parents don’t always interpret these as begging behaviors, Beasley says. 

But if staring or hovering or booping isn’t working, your dog might get vocal. “If a dog barks at you for something, we call that ‘demand barking,’” she says. “It’s not bad behavior, per se, it’s the dog communicating that he wants something. But it’s not the way to do it.”

How to Stop a Dog from Begging

The best way to curb demand barking or pushier dog begging behaviors is to teach your dog to sit for what he wants, Beasley says. “I call it the ‘Say please’ protocol.’”

The good news, she says, is that most dog parents usually teach their pups how to “sit.” For instance, you might teach your dog to sit in front of the fridge when he wants an ice cube (like Beasley’s German Shepherd does). 

But it’s important for pet parents to learn to recognize what their dog is saying by quietly sitting near something he wants and rewarding polite behavior. “We have a saying that behaviors that are rewarded are repeated,” Beasley says. “The key is consistency.”

When it comes to a dog begging for food, approaches you can try include feeding your dog first, feeding your dog in a different room, or blocking your dog’s access to where you eat. 

According to Yody Blass, three tried-and-true things dog parents can do are ignore, redirect, and invest in some basic training.

Ignoring is exactly what it sounds like. When you feel those big saucer eyes lock in on you, don’t engage. “[Dogs are] used to us giving in,” Blass says. “You need to make them wait—although that’s only going to work to a point.”

This is where redirecting comes in. Redirect the dog’s attention to something he would like besides your dinner—maybe a toy or a snuffle mat—in another part of the house. When he figures out that when you get something he also gets something he likes, but can only get it away from the table, you’ll be more likely to eat without “that look” keeping you company.

This, of course, will only happen if you put in some time training your dog to respect your cues, gestures, and hand signals, Blass says. But this is where a lot of dog families get frustrated. “I think a lot of people miss that training part,” she says. “You need to work on it every day for two or three minutes.”

And if all that is still not getting your dog to stop begging, she says, call a professional. “It’s helpful to have someone come in and work with you.”

Dog Begging: Other Tips and Advice

Whether your dog is begging for food, play, or a nice ice cube, stopping a dog from begging takes a little patience and a little practice. Remember that they don’t think they’re doing anything wrong, so punishing a dog for “bad” behavior won’t work, Beasley says.

Teaching basic cues like “leave it” or simply “no” can go a long way. They’re especially effective with hand or body gestures, since dogs are excellent at picking up nonverbal cues from people, Beasley says.

Her own German Shepherd, for instance, loves fetching a ball and would do it for hours. But when Beasley has had enough, she will gesture with her arms and say “Enough” and then completely disengage.

The bottom line is, your dog will react to the way you respond to begging. Whatever you reward, you reinforce, and if “bad” or unwanted behaviors are getting him what he wants, he will keep doing it as long as it works.

The post Dog Begging: Why They Do It and How to Stop It appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While cats see fewer colors than humans, they have extra visual abilities that we lack. For instance, cats can see quite well in the dark!

So what colors can cats see? To understand cat color perception, it’s helpful to know how their eyes are structured. Here’s what you need to know about cat vision.

Cat Vision: Understanding Feline Eye Anatomy

There are many similarities between human eyes and cat eyes, at least in the anatomical sense, says Dr. Kelli Ramey, a veterinary ophthalmologist and owner of Calgary Animal Eye Care in Calgary, Canada.

“We have all the same basic structures: the cornea, the clear windshield of the eye; the iris, the colored part of the eye; a lens; and a retina,” says Ramey. “Probably the predominant anatomic difference between our eyes and cats’ eyes is the shape of the pupil. So that cat eye has that vertical slit-shaped pupil, which actually helps them with more of their distance vision, and it can improve their visual acuity at a distance.”

A critical difference between humans’ and cats’ eyes lies in the composition of the retina—namely, the photoreceptor cells known as cones and rods. Human eyes have more cones, enabling broad color vision. Cat eyes mainly consist of rods that allow for black-and-white vision in dim light. While cats do have cones that allow them to see color, their visual abilities focus more on seeing in the dark rather than distinguishing a range of colors.

“Cats can see better in the dark than we can largely because they have more rods than cones and a greater density of rods than we have,” says Dr. Riley Aronson, an ophthalmology specialty intern at Tuft University’s Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine. “This helps them hunt in darker lighting, since cats are technically crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk). Another reason they see better in the dark is because cats (excluding blue-eyed cats) have another layer in the back of their eye called a tapetum lucidum—or tapetum for short. This helps reflect light back through the retina, meaning the photoreceptors (rods and cones) receive more light.”

While cats are known to have two types of cones in their retinas, some recent studies have suggested that cats could have a third cone, allowing them to see a broader spectrum of color (2). But this idea is controversial since these cones cannot be consistently detected in anatomic or behavioral studies of vision in cats (3).

What Colors Can Cats See?

There is still a lot to learn about feline vision, but most experts agree that cats see shades of blue-violet and yellow-green. On the other hand, cats cannot see red, orange, and brown hues.

So does that mean cats can’t see the laser pointer’s red dot? Aronson says cats can see the laser, just not the color.

“It is the movement of the dot that they see, rather than the color,” says Aronson. “Cats are similar to people with red-green colorblindness and are thought to perceive red objects as green.”

Cats may respond more favorably to objects within their color range, says Ramey.

“If we want to play to the strengths of cats’ color vision, buying them toys and beds … that are in that blue to yellow-green color range just means that they’re going to potentially find things more easily,” says Ramey. “If you’re throwing a ball and it’s red, it’s going to be harder for them to find and track compared to a blue ball.”

Do Cats See Color the Same Way as Dogs?

Cats see color in a similar way to dogs, but there are some crucial differences between cat and dog vision.

“Dogs are a little bit more toward that blue and strong yellow, whereas cats [see] a little bit more blue and greenish-yellow,” says Ramey. “It’s not a huge difference, but it’s small enough that it’s noted in the research.”

Another distinction is that dogs have better visual acuity than cats. “Things will actually look a bit more blurry to cats,” Ramey explains.

Cat vision might be more “blurry,” but they have excellent motion detection – better than dogs do. And cats can see well in the near dark. However, cats are more near-sighted than dogs, and can only see about 20 feet in front of them.

“Evolutionarily, this makes sense for them,” says Aronson. “They hunt when it’s darker and hunt close up. The vertical pupil helps them hunt from trees and higher distances.” They are experts at tracking moving prey. 

Color Blindness in Cats

Is it possible that some cats are colorblind? Ramey says it’s impossible to know.

“Since individual cats can’t communicate exactly what they see from cat to cat,” says Ramey, “I don’t think we know for sure. We know more generalities.”

Aronson takes a similar view: “I think colorblindness would be hard to diagnose in cats since we can’t see that they’re struggling with crayons in elementary school, for example.”

That said, Aronson says some medical issues could impact a cat’s vision as a whole. “Anything that degrades the retina itself,” says Aronson. “For cats, these diseases include retinal degeneration, PRA (progressive retinal atrophy), taurine deficiency in the diet, fluoroquinolone (an antibiotic class) toxicity, and retinal detachment.”

While color blindness hasn’t been recognized in cats, experts say cats see color in a comparable way to humans with red-green color blindness.

“Probably the closest we can perceive to what cats see in color would be for like a colorblind person,” says Ramey.

Conclusion

In summary, cats can see color, but not in the same way as humans, or even dogs. Most experts believe their vision is limited to shades of blue-violet and yellow-green, and that they’re unable to see hues of red, orange, and brown.

What cats lack in color vision, however, they gain in night vision and motion detection. In other words, don’t underestimate what your cats can see.

The post What Colors Can Cats See? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

“The most common types of cancer affecting dogs are lymphoma and bone tumors,” explains Dr. Alex Schechter, DVM, founding veterinarian at Burrwood Veterinary. “Certain breeds of dogs are more prone to developing certain types of cancer. For example, Labrador Retrievers have a higher rate of liver cancer than any other breed of dog. This can be attributed to a breed’s genetic predisposition to certain types of cancer.” 

Dr. Kendra Pope, DVM, founding veterinarian of Prism Integrative Veterinary Health, has spent the last 15 years as a board-certified oncologist and training in holistic and integrative modalities. She believes the management and treatment of cancer in dogs requires a holistic approach, from conventional medicine to food therapy. 

While there is no magical dog cancer diet, there are some food recommendations and tips you can take into consideration. What follows is a guide to canine nutrition, cancer, and the science behind diets for dogs with cancer. Once you’ve taken it all in, chat with your veterinarian, veterinary oncologist, and veterinary nutritionist about the right approach for your individual pup. 

Dog Cancer Diet: Why It’s Important

Science is limited when it comes to fully understanding the role of nutrition and the management or treatment of cancer. But one thing we know from the study of cancer cells is that they metabolize certain foods better than healthy cells do. 

“It’s something called the Warburg Effect,” Dr. Pope explains. Essentially, cancer cells are much more efficient in using the energy of glucose and carbohydrates than a healthy cell is, which means certain diets could fuel the reproduction of cancer faster than some other diets might. The Warburg Effect and its use in slowing the progression of cancer is an active area of research [2]. 

Dr. Pope adds that a dog undergoing cancer treatment—like surgery, chemotherapy, or radiation—experiences metabolic changes and likely benefits from an individually-tailored diet. The right diet also has the potential to reduce symptoms of the treatment and cancer, like increasing your pup’s energy level, decreasing inflammation, or settling an upset stomach. 

Best Food for Dogs with Cancer: Recommendations

If there’s one thing that Dr. Pope can’t stress enough, it’s that there is no one diet for dogs with cancer or even a recommended diet based on your dog’s particular cancer diagnosis. “Nutrition in general, and definitely when it comes to cancer patients, is all about individualized therapy,” Dr. Pope says. 

You won’t find a dog food labeled prescription diet for dogs with cancer. But we know cancer cells feed on glucose and carbohydrates while healthy cells readily feed on protein and fats. So, “we often recommend a dog with cancer be fed a diet that is lower in carbohydrates and higher in protein,” Dr. Pope says. 

Of course, your veterinarian will consider all of your dog’s dietary needs when making a recommendation—like a low-protein diet if your dog has kidney disease or a low-fat diet if the cancer affects the functions of the pancreas. 

“When we use diet as a catch-all, we’re really missing opportunities to provide patients with what they need on an individualized basis,” Dr. Pope adds.

Homemade Dog Food for Cancer

In addition to a low-carbohydrate and low-glucose diet, Dr. Pope encourages pet parents of dogs with cancer to feed a diet that is minimally processed and that uses whole-food ingredients. A homemade diet developed with a veterinary nutritionist is “much less inflammatory than commercially available foods,” she says. The culprit of inflammation in ultra-processed foods, she adds, is high amounts of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) (a glucose by-product) and lots of carbohydrates [3].  

A homemade diet gives you greater control of what your pet is eating, Dr. Schechter adds. But it’s not to say that it doesn’t come with a greater amount of work in the kitchen and expenses. Plus, the best homemade food for dogs with cancer (or any dog) is one that’s made in close coordination with a board-certified nutritionist for a complete and balanced meal tailored to your dog’s needs. A homemade diet made without such expert guidance is likely to be nutritionally unbalanced and may be harmful to your pet’s health and their ability to fight their cancer.

Best Commercial Dog Food for Cancer

Luckily for us and our pets, there have been huge improvements in the pet food industry that can provide dogs with cancer an optimal diet. “Moving away from high-heat and ultra-processed diets to less processed whole food diets is really important,” Dr. Pope says. 

It’s not about recommending any one type of commercial dog food for cancer over another, but instead finding the most minimally processed food that a pet parent can afford and that is safe for the pet. Dogs with cancer likely have a compromised immune system from chemotherapy, steroids, or other reasons. The bottom line is that switching a dog who has been fed kibble their entire life to a raw diet when undergoing immune-suppressing treatment like chemotherapy would be a “recipe for disaster,” Dr. Pope says.

Instead, she says, reach for steamed or dehydrated dog foods if your dog is typically kibble-fed. Also on her list of recommendations are high-pressured processed or cold-pressured processed dog foods. “That means that they’re sterilized the same way juices are sterilized. There’s never heat applied and they use pressure to address any bacteria in the food,” Dr. Pope explains. “Any bacteria present is inactivated.” However, it is also important to remember that the nutrients in cooked foods are generally more digestible and dogs with cancer need all the nutrients they can get. 

What to Feed a Dog with Cancer Who Won’t Eat

First, talk to your veterinarian or oncologist about the changes you might expect to see in your dog’s appetite as treatment begins or the disease progresses. They may prescribe an appetite stimulant or anti-nausea medication to reduce your pup’s symptoms.  

Then, talk to your veterinarian and board-certified veterinary nutritionist about tweaking your dog’s diet. Frequent changes when your pet isn’t feeling well could lead to food aversion.

Switch up your dog’s diet. If approved by your veterinarian, try a different brand of food, texture, or processing method. When transitioning to a new dog food, always do so slowly, gradually adding more of the new food and less of your dog’s old one. 

Warm up your dog’s meal. A dog’s nose is many times more powerful than ours, but health conditions and medications can impact a pup’s super-smelling abilities [4, 5]. Because dogs rely on the sense of smell to provoke appetite, a loss of smell could mean no longer wanting to chow down on a favorite food. Warming up your dog’s meal could be enough to increase the odor and provoke an appetite. 

Add a topper. Who said adding a delicious topper that your dog will love can’t be nutritious? Toppers come in a variety of formats, from gravies and broths to powders and freeze-dried morsels. Try serving bone broth warm for an extra-enticing scent!

What to Avoid in a Cancer Diet for Dogs

Besides carbohydrates and glucose, certain nutrients or vitamins could interfere with your dog’s cancer treatment. This is individually based and depends on the type of treatment your dog is undergoing and other health conditions they may have. 

For example, some chemotherapies work by creating free radicals that kill cancer cells. Antioxidants are known for their free-radical neutralizing abilities—exactly what you don’t want during these free-radical-dependent cancer treatments. 

“Generally speaking, when we’re talking about antioxidants, if they’re coming from food sources the chances and strength of them interfering with chemotherapy is negligible,” Dr. Pope says. “The space where we need to be cautious, and mindful is when we’re talking about supplementing.” Bottom line, speak to your veterinarian before introducing anything new to your dog’s diet and always tell your oncologist about all the foods, medications, supplements, and treats your dog gets. 

Dog Cancer Diet: Other Tips and Advice

Whether your dog has been diagnosed with cancer, is in remission, or you want to feed your dog a diet that has cancer-preventing properties, “we would still reach for the same things,” Dr. Pope says, as we would for people. In the case of adding in beneficial supplements like mushrooms or turmeric, “we would just do it in much lower doses,” she adds. 

The most important takeaway about nutrition and your dog’s health is to work with a trusted veterinarian and board-certified veterinary nutritionist for an individualized plan. “It’s really important for pet parents and veterinarians to find people they trust to collaborate with,” Dr. Pope says. “Pet parents can go it alone, but as you can imagine, there’s a risk they can potentially do harm, or the results are not going to be as good as if they had a professional working with them.”

The post Dog Cancer Diet: Food Recommendations and Feeding Tips appeared first on Great Pet Care.

We know that a dog with a loose body position and a mouth slightly open is usually happy, while one who’s still and licking his lips likely feels frightened or stressed. 

But what about a dog who’s tilting their head? It sort of looks like they are confused or curious—like a real-life version of Scooby Doo saying “Aroo?” 

We spoke with veterinary behavior experts to learn more about head tilting in dogs, including what the behavior means and what pet parents should do about it.

Dog Tilting Head: Is It Normal?

Whether head tilting in dogs is normal or abnormal depends on the individual dog and the context of the behavior.

“Some dogs offer head tilts more than others, but it’s not clear yet why,” says Ellen M. Lindell, VMD, DACVB, a board certified veterinary behaviorist at Veterinary Behavior Consultations in Asheville, North Carolina. 

That’s because the behavior hasn’t been researched too extensively. However, one recent study offers at least a loose suggestion that tilting behavior can be associated with dogs who are “gifted word learners.” (1)

The study looked at 40 breeds of dogs and tried to get them to memorize names of various toys and recall that information shortly thereafter. Seven of the dogs showed a strong ability to complete the tasks, while the others did not. Those seven dogs tilted their heads 43 percent of the time, while the other dogs only tilted their heads 2 percent of the time.

Lindell says more research will be needed to determine if this conclusion is strong and consistent enough to indicate that head tilting is truly associated with smarts, as well as if there are any breed-specific associations with the behavior. 

Why Do Dogs Tilt Their Heads? 

Perhaps the most familiar reason for dogs to tilt their heads is in response to auditory stimuli, says Amy Learn, VMD, DACVB, Chief of Clinical Behavioral Medicine at the Animal Behavior Wellness Center in Richmond, Virginia. “The action is thought to be when an animal is processing or responding to a sound or word that has some significance, meaning that they have already been taught to identify that object.” 

Learn adds that not all dogs are able to learn the label for certain objects and not all dogs who recognize certain words tilt their heads. Dogs may also tilt their heads when hearing a new sound for the very first time. 

Some dogs may tilt their head to the left, while others tilt to the right. This appears to be simply an individual preference of the dog, as long as response to stimuli is the reason for the head tilt.

Dog head tilting may also be an attempt to gain human attention. Though there is no evidence to suggest that dogs tilt their heads deliberately to look cuter, one study suggests a head tilt can increase their cuteness factor (2). In addition, positively reinforced behaviors tend to repeat over time. So if your dog tilts their head and you respond by laughing, praising, or giving a treat, this will encourage them to do it more often, Learn says. 

In other cases, dog head tilting could be a sign of an underlying medical issue. If your dog starts tilting their head for the first time out of nowhere, the behavior is most likely due to a health problem. This is especially likely in the case of senior dogs that develop a new head tilt.

“Any behavior that has never been seen and suddenly appears suggests potential for a medical component,” Lindell says. “New behavioral traits don’t suddenly appear once dogs are 1 ½ years old unless the stimulus is novel.” 

When Head Tilt in Dogs Indicates a Problem

When a medical issue is the cause of head tilting, the tilt will be persistent and may occur when the dog is still or moving, Lindell says. “The dog is not likely to be specifically engaged with a person or oriented toward a sound when experiencing a medical event,” she says.

Problematic head tilting may also occur when a dog is walking in a circle, Learn adds. Other signs that come with an illness-caused head tilt may include: 

• Head, ear, or neck pain
• Vomiting
• Abnormal eye movements
• Lowered head carriage or difficulty holding the head up
• Falling over
• Inability to stand

“Illnesses that cause head tilts usually involve inflammatory or infectious causes and may or may not be painful,” Learn says. The systems infected include the brain and brain stem, as well as vestibular system, or the inner ear. 

When it comes to ear-related triggers for head tilting, you may also notice your dog shaking their head. This is a very different behavior than head tilting, but Learn says they both can be associated with ear infections. 

If you notice any of these symptoms coming on suddenly, along with persistent head tilting, seek out immediate medical attention. Most tilt-related medical problems will require significant diagnostics and treatment, Learn says, and some may even be life-threatening.

A new head tilt in a senior dog isn’t always a serious concern, though. A head tilt in an older dog that is accompanied by abnormal eye movements and other signs could be caused by a benign condition called “old dog vestibular disease.” This condition, which affects senior dogs (as its name suggests), often results in a head tilt, circling, trouble balancing, and other clinical signs that are consistent with dizziness or vertigo. Distinguishing between vestibular disease and other, more serious, conditions requires the expertise of a veterinarian.

On the other hand, if your dog shows no signs of pain or arousal and is still when they give their head a quick tilt, it is likely behavior related, Lindell says. “A behavioral head tilt will be brief and usually accompanied by an expression that I’ll just call ‘curiosity.’” 

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This is why there are no early signs of cancer in cats – cats don’t tell you there is a problem until their symptoms are too severe to hide.

However, being able to recognize possible symptoms of cancer in cats can help you get your cat treatment as soon as possible. In this article, we’ll outline general signs pet parents should look out for and also provide the symptoms associated with different types of cat cancer. 

9 General Signs of Cancer in Cats

When a cat doesn’t feel well, the first few signs are often the same for many types of illnesses and nearly all types of cancer: they don’t eat and they hide. 

Other common symptoms of cancer in cats include: 

• Weight loss
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Lethargy (decreased energy)
• Increased thirst
• Urinating outside the litterbox
• New lumps

Keep in mind that many of these symptoms can also be signs of other health problems or diseases. It’s important to have your veterinarian evaluate your cat before jumping to any conclusions. 

7 Types of Cat Cancer: Signs and Symptoms

There are many different types of cancer that can impact cats and each has their own signs and symptoms. 

Lymphoma

What it is: Cancer of the lymph nodes (immune system)

The most common type of lymphoma in cats is gastrointestinal (GI). It comes in two forms: small cell lymphoma and large cell lymphoma. 

Small cell lymphoma acts like a chronic disease in cats and causes vomiting, diarrhea, and loss of appetite. 

Large cell lymphoma includes acute signs like severe lethargy and anorexia (full loss of appetite) as well as vomiting and diarrhea.

There are many other types of lymphoma in cats that are not as common as GI lymphoma. These types include:

• Renal (kidneys)
• Hepatic (liver)
• Multicentric (lymph nodes)
• Cutaneous (skin) 

Symptoms of renal and hepatic lymphoma include lethargy, vomiting, diarrhea, and inappetence. In multicentric lymphoma, a cat may have swollen lymph nodes under the chin, on the neck, behind the knees, in the armpits, or in the groin. Cutaneous lymphoma signs are similar to a skin infection, such as itchiness and visible skin wounds. Lymphoma can even occur in the eyes, in which case you may notice a change in the shape of the iris or pupil. 

Squamous Cell Carcinoma (SCC)

What it is: Cancer of the skin

Squamous cell carcinoma grows quickly and aggressively, meaning that invades other tissue in the area such as bone.. Signs may include ulcerated (bloody) growth that is most often on the face or in the mouth. Signs of mouth cancer in cats include difficulty eating, hesitancy to eat, or excessive drool. Cats with SCC may have bad breath or a foul odor around their face.

Often complete surgical excision for SCC is difficult, if not impossible, and so treatment of this type of cancer in cats is aimed at maintaining good quality of life.

White cats, cats who spend a lot of time in the sun, and cats exposed to tobacco smoke in the home are more likely to develop squamous cell tumors.

Mast Cell Tumors

What it is: Cancer of the skin

Mast cell tumors are often less aggressive than squamous cell carcinomas and can be more easily removed. They look like raised nodules on the skin that may be itchy or bleed and can be found anywhere on the body.

Sarcoma

What is is: Cancer of the muscle, connective tissue, and other soft tissue structures of the body

A sarcoma is cancer of the muscle or soft tissue and general symptoms of sarcomas in cats include a lump or mass that is slow growing, and lameness if the sarcoma is affecting a cat’s limb. 

One type of sarcoma, called an injection site fibrosarcoma, is an uncommon but aggressive form associated with locations where cats have received injections of medications, including vaccines. When found on a limb, recommended treatment often includes amputation. In other places on the body, complete surgical excision is unlikely and the cancer is expected to return within several months.

Mammary (Adenocarcinoma)

What it is: Cancer of the mammary glands

Unfortunately, about 90 percent of masses found in the mammary glands of cats are cancerous. These tumors are hormonally driven, so they are more common in cats who have not been spayed or those who were spayed at a later age.

These feel like hard beads near a cat’s nipple. They can become very large and form one mass between teats.

Intraocular Sarcoma

What it is: Cancer of the eye

Older cats with a history of trauma or disease of their eye can develop a type of cancer called post traumatic intraocular sarcoma.

Signs of eye cancer in cats can include visible changes to one eye, such as changes in their iris or pupil shape or new cloudiness. Cats may rub the eye if it is painful. Sometimes cancer of the eye in cats can cause discharge from the eye.

Treatment is surgical removal of the eye. Although this sounds scary, there are many cats who live long happy lives with just one eye. If the eye is painful or they cannot use it to see, then it should be removed.

Osteosarcoma

What it is: Bone cancer

Osteosarcoma is cancer of the bone. It is rare in cats. Signs of bone cancer include limping, decreased activity, resistance to playing, and not jumping on furniture or other objects they used to enjoy perching on. Some cats will also have a decreased appetite. Bone cancer sometimes causes bones to fracture.

There is increased risk for bone cancer among large breed cats, such as Maine Coons and Norwegian Forest Cats.

Other Types of Cat Cancer and Their Signs

There are many additional types of cancers that have more vague symptoms. For example, cancers of the stomach, intestines, or liver can look like intestinal upset with signs like nausea, decreased appetite, diarrhea, and vomiting. 

Cancer of the blood or bone marrow may cause tiredness that is mistaken for normal aging.

Lung cancer in cats is more often due to spread (metastasis) of other types of cancers. These are called secondary or metastatic tumors. Primary lung tumors are rare in cats. Signs of tumors in the lung include coughing, decreased energy, difficulty breathing, decreased appetite, and weight loss.

What to Do if You Notice These Symptoms

If you notice concerning changes in your cat, the first thing to do is not to panic. Remember that many things besides cancer can cause cats to feel sick. Think about whether there might be any changes that could relate to your cat’s symptoms. For example, diarrhea after changing her food or sneezing on a heavy pollen day in spring.

Since anything can be a sign of cancer, the most important thing you can do is pay attention to changes in your cat. If your cat is just not acting like herself in any way, make an appointment with your veterinarian for a few days out (3-5 days or when your veterinarian has availability). 

If your cat is still showing signs at that point, take her in. If not, cancel the appointment at least 24 hours beforehand. It’s easier than trying to be squeezed in at the last minute and your veterinarian will appreciate it. Of course, if your cat worsens before the appointment, try to get an immediate appointment or go to the emergency clinic.

Any lump that is bigger than 1cm (1/2 inch), is there for more than a month, grows, changes, bleeds, or doesn’t look/feel like the other lumps on your cat should be examined. It is always easier (safer, less painful, less expensive) to remove a small mass than a big one especially on the limbs and face. Any growth that suddenly changes should be examined.

If your cat does something that concerns you or you notice a new lump, it is best to let a veterinarian examine your cat. Some types of cancers, such as mammary nodules, can be found on a physical exam. Others require blood work, X-rays, or an ultrasound to pinpoint. These are also important tests in assessing your pet’s overall health. 

After locating an abnormality that is suspected to be cancer, the first step is taking a small sample of the cells to look at under a microscope. This is called an aspirate. Often a diagnosis of cancer versus just a benign lump can be made based on this initial sample but sometimes it cannot be. If a diagnosis cannot be made, then your veterinarian may recommend something called an “excisional biopsy” where the suspicious mass is surgically removed as both diagnostic test and treatment. However, it is ideal to know whether the mass is cancer before removing so that your veterinarian can take appropriate margins (healthy tissue around the mass) and no cancer is left behind.

While surgery is recommended for many types of cancers, there are some cancers that are treated only with chemotherapy or radiation therapy, such as lymphoma.

In Conclusion

Because the signs of cancer in cats are broad and can mimic those of other diseases and health problems, it’s important to discuss any concerns you may have with your veterinarian. 

Your veterinarian will be able to run appropriate diagnostic tests or conduct imaging procedures that can identify whether your cat’s symptoms are cancer or being caused by something else. 

And if your cat does have cancer, don’t lose heart. Many feline cancers can be effectively treated or managed, offering your cat a good quality of life despite a cancer diagnosis.

The post Signs of Cancer in Cats: Symptoms to Watch For appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Even for veterinarians, examining cat’s joints is difficult because cats don’t cooperate. All of that together means that arthritis in cats is severely under-diagnosed and therefore not effectively treated.

Defining Arthritis in Cats: What Exactly Is It?

When we say arthritis we generally mean osteoarthritis which is painful inflammation of the joints. This is a degenerative disease meaning that it occurs over time and is most likely to be found in older cats. In fact it is estimated that 90 percent of cats over 10 years of age have osteoarthritis in at least one joint.

The way arthritis develops in cats is similar to how it develops in humans and in dogs. Over time, normal wear and tear on the joint surfaces of bones causes inflammation which further degrades the joint surfaces. The body responds by trying to replace injured or damaged bone but this replacement is not as smooth as the original joint surface and creates more inflammation.

Causes of Arthritis in Cats

Osteoarthritis in cats is divided into two categories: primary and secondary. Primary arthritis is due to normal wear and tear over a lifetime. Secondary arthritis is the result of joint degeneration following trauma, injury, or poor conformation. Secondary arthritis can occur at any age. 

Munchkin cats, Scottish Folds, and other cats with abnormal physical conformation are at increased risk for developing arthritis.

Cats who are overweight are at increased risk for developing arthritis and at a younger age. This is because excess weight puts excess strain on joints and that speeds the normal wear and tear processes. Excess fat also causes inflammation which is the source of pain in arthritis. 

Diseases that cause loss of muscle mass such as diabetes, hyperthyroid disease, and kidney disease can also cause arthritis. Muscles keep weight off of joints which is why exercise is important in preventing arthritis.

Cat Arthritis Symptoms

Symptoms of arthritis in cats are generally less obvious than arthritis in dogs. They involve loss of mobility such as eating or drinking less because it is painful to walk to the food bowl. Cats may no longer be able to reach their favorite napping spots on top of furniture or they may be reluctant to follow you up and down the stairs. 

Some cats may groom themselves less or stop grooming all together which is noticeable as a greasy or flaky coat. Usually the first places this becomes noticeable are the lower back and around the anus. 

Not using the litter box can be a sign of arthritis because cats with arthritis may have difficulty stepping in or out of the box or posturing to urinate and defecate.

Cat arthritis symptoms to watch for include:

• Stiffness, especially after sleeping or resting
• Decreased activity
• Not jumping to places they used to be able to reach
• Not playing with their favorite toys
• Changes in litter box use or going outside the litter box
• Decreased grooming
• Decreased eating and drinking
• Limping
• Increased hiding or sleeping
• Less interaction

Diagnosing Cat Arthritis

Veterinarians diagnose cat arthritis through the information you provide, a physical examination, and sometimes X-ray images. 

The information you provide about changes in your cat’s behavior is important in diagnosing arthritis in cats because cats do not always acknowledge their pain on a physical exam or may not cooperate for a thorough exam. 

During the physical exam your veterinarian will feel along the spine and along the cat’s arms and legs. Your veterinarian will move the joints through their normal ranges of motion to detect any decreases or abnormal movements that may indicate arthritis. 

To confirm arthritis your veterinarian may take X-rays (radiographs) of any joints that seem painful or are not able to move well. X-rays are useful to eliminate other causes of pain such as tumors or a bone infection.

Cat Arthritis Treatment

Unfortunately, there are limited available treatments for cats with arthritis which is why prevention is the best medicine. There is no cure for arthritis, only management. 

One of the most important components of management is weight loss for overweight cats diagnosed with arthritis. Your veterinarian can help you design a healthy diet to help your cat slowly lose excess weight that contributes to the development and progression of arthritis.

For cats who do have arthritis, a multi-modal management plan is most effective. This includes pain medication, adaptations to the home, and adjunctive or complementary therapies such as physical therapy and acupuncture.

Pain Control

Pain control is an important component of managing arthritis in cats, but it is important to remember that pain control does not treat arthritis, it only reduces its symptoms. There are two categories of pain control that can be useful: non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs) and pain relievers. 

NSAIDs minimize inflammation. Inflammation is painful. These are often most effective in the early stages of arthritis. NSAIDs for cats include Onsior and Meloxicam but neither is specifically approved to treat arthritis in cats. 

The other category of pain control includes medications that reduce the perception of pain. These include gabapentin and buprenorphine but again neither one is specifically labeled for use in arthritis treatment.

Adaptations at Home

Making changes at home can help your cat be more comfortable and can go a long way to reducing symptoms. These include giving your cat a soft, padded or orthopedic bed that is easy to get in and out of, providing a ramp or short steps to places she likes to rest, and making other simple changes to help your cat get around better. 

A litter box with one low side helps arthritic cats get in and out easier. You can reduce the need for your cat to use the stairs by keeping everything she needs on one floor of your house where your cat prefers to spend the most time.

Arthritis can reduce a cat’s desire or ability to groom herself. You can help by grooming her frequently with a soft brush, trimming her nails if she is not keen on using the scratching post, and wiping her anus with baby wipes if she is unable to clean it herself. Cats enjoy being clean, so don’t underestimate the value of these changes to her comfort.

Physical Therapy and Other Treatments

Physical therapy is available for cats to help restore muscle mass and address any limping caused by injury or arthritis. Of course, cats have to be willing participants to benefit from most structured types of physical therapy. But even modified exercises at home can be effective. So even if you don’t think your cat will tolerate going to the veterinary physical therapist, the tools and exercises they offer can be useful at home.

Other tools to manage the pain of arthritis include acupuncture and cold laser therapy. Adequan is an injectable supplement that may help rebuild joint cartilage. Stem cell therapy is still in his initial phases but may prove effective in restoring joint health. These can be performed in your veterinarian’s office and many cats tolerate the treatments well.

In rare situations surgery can be beneficial for cats severely impacted by arthritis pain. Surgery may involve removing scar tissue due to a previous injury, may address poor joint positioning, or may require amputation of a very arthritic limb. Surgery is the treatment of last resort for arthritis in cats.

Cost to Treat Arthritis in Cats

The cost to treat arthritis in cats varies depending on which options you and your veterinarian decide are right for your cat. Medications and supplements may each cost between $30 and $100 per month. Adjunctive treatments or therapy may cost $50-$100 per session.

Generally treatments are continued for the rest of the cat’s life since arthritis is a progressive disease.

How to Prevent Arthritis in Cats

Arthritis in cats cannot be fully prevented but there are steps you can take to reduce your feline’s risk and minimize the impact that arthritis has on their quality of life. 

The first and most important things are to keep your cat at a healthy weight her whole life and encourage exercise through play. 

Regular check-ups with a veterinarian including both physical exams and routine blood work can help prevent arthritis by addressing any diseases that increase arthritis risk. Your veterinarian is trained to notice changes in your cat before you do and she may detect decreased mobility before it becomes painful arthritis.

Many cat joint supplements are best used to slow the development or progression of arthritis. The chondroprotective (joint cartilage support) supplements are slow-acting and can take several weeks to build up to effective levels in the body. These include glucosamine and chondroitin as well as anti-inflammatory supplements such as omega-3 fatty acids (fish oil). 

Glucosamine and chondroitin sulfate (with MSM – methyl sulfonyl methane) may take 4-6 weeks to see effect and is not effective for late stage disease. Similarly, omega-3 fatty acids are anti-inflammatory and are best used to reduce arthritis risk or slow its progression. It may take 4 weeks to see the effect. Omega-3 fatty acids have other beneficial effects including heart and skin support and is one of the most well studied supplements available.

Cats are very sensitive, so it is not recommended to use supplements unless you have discussed them with your veterinarian. Just because something is safe and effective for people does not mean it is safe or effective for cats.

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Proper dental care can help keep a dog’s teeth and gums healthy. Unfortunately, dental disease in dogs is very common. Let’s explore the causes, symptoms, and treatment options for dental problems in dogs. 

What Is Dental Disease in Dogs?

Dental disease refers to any abnormalities that occur in your dog’s mouth. These include diseases of the teeth, gums, tongue, bones, and other structures of the mouth. While some types of dental disease are due to bacterial infections, trauma may also cause dental disease due to tooth fractures and even jaw fractures.

The most common type of dental disease is periodontal disease. Periodontal disease in dogs refers to infection, inflammation, and breakdown of the structures that support teeth and hold them in place. Humans develop the same kind of dental disease if they don’t brush their teeth and see a dentist regularly. 

Interestingly dogs very rarely develop cavities. This is because the types of bacteria that cause cavities are not common in dogs. 

Small breed dogs and brachycephalic breeds are more likely to develop dental disease than others. Yorkshire Terriers and Dachshunds are some of the breeds that commonly develop severe dental disease. However, all dogs are susceptible. 

As dogs age they accumulate bacteria on their teeth that form plaque. Therefore older dogs are more likely to show signs of dental disease. Young to middle aged dogs start to show signs of dental disease that progresses if not treated.

Causes of Dental Disease in Dogs

Just like in humans, dental disease in dogs is caused by poor dental hygiene. Dental hygiene means both brushing teeth daily and regularly seeing a veterinarian for oral examinations and cleanings. 

Dogs accumulate bacteria in their mouth which adheres to teeth as dental calculus. This leads to inflammation of the gums and breakdown of the structures that hold the teeth in place known as periodontal ligaments. Due to the shape and size of their mouths, small breed dogs are at increased risk of developing periodontal disease.

Some breeds have a genetic risk for gingivitis, periodontal disease, and other dental diseases. Boxers, for example, develop excessive gum tissue known as gingival hyperplasia. West Highland White Terriers and some other terrier breeds are at risk for craniomandibular osteopathy or overgrowth of the jaw bone.

Just like it is important to exercise the muscles of the body, it is important to use the teeth (chew), in order to maintain good dental health. For that reason many veterinarians recommend dry kibble dog food. However if you have ever watched a dog eat you know that if they can swallow food whole they will. The size, shape, and texture of food is important for dental health. Similarly, not having appropriate toys to chew on can impact dental health.

Dog Dental Disease Symptoms

There are many possible symptoms of dental disease in dogs, including:

• Bad breath
• Bleeding
• Red or swollen gums
• Thick gray-brown calculus
• Swelling on face
• Discharge from one eye
• Decreased appetite
• Shyness around their head
• Weight loss
• Change in tooth color
• Missing teeth
• Rubbing or scratching their face

Dental disease can also cause disease in other parts of the body including kidney disease, heart disease, and liver disease. 

Types of Dental Disease in Dogs

There are several types of dental disease in dogs that pet parents should be aware of. These include:

Periodontal disease: Periodontal disease refers to infection, inflammation, and breakdown of the structures that support teeth and hold them in place. This leads to pain and tooth loss.

Trauma: Dogs may damage their teeth by chewing on very hard objects or playing vigorously with toys. They may also suffer from dental trauma if they are in a dog fight or hit by a car.

Tooth root infections: Bacteria that finds its way under the gums may form a pocket of infection around the tooth root. As this pocket expands it becomes a very painful abscess.

Gingivitis: Inflammation of the gums is known as gingivitis. When severe, it may be called stomatitis or ulcerative stomatitis. Boxers are known to develop gingival hyperplasia which is a benign overgrowth of the gums.

Growths: Many types of abnormal tissue can grow in the mouth. These include both benign tissues and cancers. Papilloma warts are small viral growths that resolve on their own. Melanoma is one of the more common types of oral cancer and is a very aggressive, severe disease. 

Dog Dental Disease Stages

There are four stages of periodontal disease. The stages refer only to periodontal disease. Other dental diseases, such as those caused by trauma, are not progressive so are not staged.

Stage 1: At this stage there is minimal tartar buildup. The gums may be slightly swollen and will likely bleed if brushed or if the dog chews on a rough toy. Dental disease in dogs at this stage is easily reversed with routine cleaning by a veterinarian or daily brushing at home. 

Stage 2: By stage two there may not be obvious visual signs of worsening periodontal disease but under the gum line the structures around the teeth are starting to become damaged by bacteria and inflammation. Stage 2 is diagnosed during an anesthetized exam that your veterinarian performs as part of your dog’s teeth cleaning. There may be some loss of the bone that holds teeth in place (alveolar bone). Addressing dental disease at this stage can reverse damage and save your dog’s teeth. 

Stage 3: Once periodontal disease reaches Stage 3 there is permanent bone loss leading to loose, painful teeth. Most often, your veterinarian will recommend extraction of teeth with this stage because of this pain. However, it is possible to save these teeth with advanced dental procedures. Typically these procedures are performed by a veterinary dental specialist. 

Stage 4: By Stage 4 of periodontal disease in dogs the teeth cannot be saved. It is in these dogs’ best interest to have most teeth extracted to address their pain and reduce the risk of future infection. Teeth may fall out on their own at this stage, putting the dog at risk for severe dental infection.

Other types of dental disease are graded for severity on different characteristics. For example, tooth fractures are simple if they do not reach the gum line while fractures are termed “complicated” if they reach below the gum line because of increased risk of infection. 

Diagnosing Dog Dental Disease 

Many types of dental disease in dogs can be diagnosed by your veterinarian’s physical exam. This includes visually looking in the mouth as well as feeling around the mouth, nose, and eyes. Your veterinarian will also feel the lymph nodes at the top of the neck which can become swollen with dental disease.

Dental disease may be hidden from view and require dental x-rays to look at the health of the tooth roots, jaw bone, and associated structures. Occasionally a CT scan (3-dimensional X-ray) is required to determine the full size, shape, and extent of dental diseases. CT scans can be useful in identifying cancers and abnormal bone growth. 

Dog Dental Disease Treatment

Dental disease is treated by cleaning all of the teeth and surgically extracting any diseased teeth. Extractions can be performed by your regular veterinarian. 

More advanced dental treatments such as root canals, crowns, and bone grafts are available through specialist veterinary dentists (orofacial and maxillary surgeons) who undergo additional training to be able to perform these procedures.

Medication may be prescribed before or after dental extraction including antibiotics and pain medications. It is important to note that antibiotics for dental disease are just a band-aid – they will not treat the infection, just reduce its severity until extraction can be performed.

Cost to Treat Dental Disease in Dogs

The cost to treat dental disease in dogs depends on the type and severity of disease. A routine cleaning might cost between $300 and $500. Add dental X-rays to that for another $100-$300. Depending on which tooth or teeth need to be extracted they can be less than $50 for an incisor (front tooth) to $250 or more for a canine (fang) or large premolar. If multiple extractions are required, it’s easy to see how the cost goes up quickly.

Root canals, crowns, and other advanced procedures will likely cost you $1,000-$4,000 each, depending on what is required. 

Fortunately, preventing dental disease in dogs is much less expensive than treatment. 

How to Prevent Dental Disease in Dogs

There is no way to fully prevent all types of dental disease in dogs. However, the best thing you can do to reduce your dog’s risk for dental disease is to brush their teeth every day with a veterinarian-recommended dog toothpaste. Just like in humans, this goes a long way in reducing risk for dental infections, tooth decay, and gingivitis. 

The physical action of brushing each tooth at the gum line is the most important part. Even if your dog hates toothpaste and the toothbrush, rubbing your dog’s teeth and gums with a clean gauze every day can make a difference. Never use human toothpaste for dogs. It may contain xylitol which is an artificial sweetener that is toxic to dogs.

Similarly, regular check-ups with your veterinarian are important because it’s your vet’s job to notice dental disease before you do. Follow through when they recommend dental cleanings. Addressing a problem early is always less painful for your dog, easier for your veterinarian, and less expensive for you.

Some treats, chews, and foods can help reduce your dog’s risk for dental disease. These include prescription diets as well as some breed-specific diets. There are many treats on the shelves that label themselves as promoting dental health. However, unless the bag has the VOHC seal of approval these claims have not been backed up by testing. The same is true for supplements such as toothpaste, water additives, and others. If your favorite dental chew isn’t on the list, call the company and ask them to have their product evaluated by the third-party (unbiased) VOHC.

Dental Disease in Dogs Infographic

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If dogs aren’t careful, certain species of spiders can also bite and cause inflammation and discomfort. 

All of these insect stings and bites cause similar signs in dogs. In fact, they are often indistinguishable from each other. The symptoms of the whole group are labeled “insect bite hypersensitivity” by veterinarians (even though technically a spider is not an insect but an arachnid).

However, if you’re concerned about spider bites on dogs, this article explains the types of spiders that bite dogs, the symptoms associated with spider bites, and whether these bites can be dangerous for our canine companions.

Do Spiders Bite Dogs?

Spiders most definitely bite dogs. But fortunately most bites are very mild, just as they are for humans. In fact, spider bites are usually indistinguishable from ant bites. 

Bites on the face tend to cause more severe symptoms than ones to the feet or tail. Puppies and very small dogs are more likely to have reactions to spider bites due to their small size.

In warmer areas, spiders are active year-round indoors and out. In colder climates spiders can take refuge from the weather in barns, garages, and homes. Spiders such as wolf spiders, garden spiders, and daddy long legs are found throughout the United States, but they do not have “medically significant” bites.

What Does a Spider Bite Look Like?

When spider bites cause a reaction on a dog, they look like small (pea-sized) raised bumps that are pink or red. You are very unlikely to see two fang marks. The area may be warmer than the surrounding skin and your dog may be sensitive to touch. Spider bites do not cause bleeding unless your dog chews or scratches the area raw. 

Spider bites on dogs typically look the same as ant bites and bee stings. Spider bites are most likely to occur on a dog’s paw or face. 

Small scratches that cause skin irritation are often confused for spider bites as are zits and other types of skin infections. Similarly, thorns and other sharp plant bits can cause wounds that are mistaken for spider bites.

Symptoms of Spider Bites on Dogs

Most of the time insect and spider bites cause a small red, raised bump on the skin that is itchy or painful. A dog may try to chew at the area or may hold up the affected limb when walking. 

Without these more obvious signs, we may not even know that a dog has been bitten. Though many types of spiders release venom when they bite, it is not enough to cause more than a mild, temporary irritation to most dogs.

Symptoms of spider bites tend to be mild. If the bite is on a limb the dog may limp or refuse to put weight on the leg. Bites on the face may cause local swelling. Rarely, more severe symptoms are possible including vomiting, diarrhea, and difficulty breathing.

Venomous Spider Bites on Dogs

The two species of spiders in the United States that contain strong enough venom to cause injury to dogs are the brown recluse spider and the black widow spider. Just as in people, these spiders can cause severe pain and tissue damage. The severity of the injury depends on the amount of venom released by the spider, the size of the dog, and the location of the bite.

Black widow spiders are found throughout the continental United States. Brown recluse spiders are most common in the Southwest, but their range extends through the Southern states and Midwest.

Brown recluse bites cause a red bullseye pattern and can lead to deep ulcers of the skin or skin necrosis (cell death). Black widow spider bites cause abdominal discomfort and muscle rigidity followed by paralysis. 

Fortunately bites from venomous spiders are very rare in the United States and serious consequences of those bites are even more uncommon. Both of these species of spiders prefer to run away and hide rather than attack, so a dog has to be persistent to be bitten by them. 

While it is very rare for dogs to receive severe bites from brown recluse or black widow spiders, both can cause serious symptoms. Brown recluse venom causes local tissue damage and can lead to local tissue necrosis. These wounds require intensive management by a veterinarian and may take several weeks to months to resolve. Black widow venom is a neurotoxin. It causes the muscles to tense and then become paralyzed. Black widow venom at a high enough dose can be fatal but this is exceedingly rare.

What to Do if a Spider Bites Your Dog

Bites from non-venomous spiders usually do not require any treatment. Symptoms will go away within an hour or so. If you suspect your dog has been bitten by a spider (or an ant), the wait-and-see approach is usually appropriate. If symptoms progress beyond a mild itch or a very small bump then you should call your veterinarian or an emergency clinic. 

The exceptions would be if your dog is allergic to spiders or was in an area with known venomous spiders. Then you should treat the spider bite as an emergency and take your dog to the veterinarian immediately.

How to Treat a Spider Bite on a Dog

Most spider bites do not require any treatment. If your dog is itchy or uncomfortable, a dose of an antihistamine can make them feel better faster (your veterinarian can recommend which type of antihistamine to keep at home for these types of situations and can calculate the appropriate dose for your dog). 

Icing the area can also help reduce itch or pain. Never put ice directly on your dog’s skin, wrap the ice in a towel and apply that to the skin instead. Ointments are not usually recommended because dogs will lick them off. 

Venomous spider bites should be treated by your veterinarian. Treatment may include wound management, pain control, and supportive care. There is an antivenom available for black widow spider bites. Full recovery from a black widow bite can take several weeks. Most of what we know about treating black widow and brown recluse spider bites is extrapolated from human medicine because the occurrence is so rare in dogs.

How to Prevent Spider Bites on Dogs

It is impossible to completely prevent spider bites. However, you can take steps to make your home and yard less hospitable to spiders. 

Do not keep piles of brush or wood where your dog frequents, as spiders like to make their homes in these piles. Keeping your grass mowed short also reduces the risk of spider and insect bites. Keep your dog out of sheds, barns, and other structures that provide good homes for spiders. 

If you suspect or have seen venomous spiders, call a pest control company for appropriate removal. The pest control company can then offer additional advice on how to reduce the risk of those spiders returning. 

In general, risks from spider bites are low. Since it is unlikely that you will witness a spider bite, use your best judgment if you suspect a bite on your dog. If symptoms are mild then you can probably just monitor. If symptoms progress beyond a small itchy bump, then it is time to take your dog to a veterinarian.

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Fortunately most of these viral warts, called papillomas and caused by the canine papilloma virus (CPV), are benign and will fall off after a while. However, it is important to be aware of these growths so that you know what to do if you see them on your dog. 

What Is Canine Papilloma Virus?

Canine papilloma virus is specific to dogs and causes growths that are often referred to as warts or papillomas. 

There are two common types of canine papilloma virus in dogs:

• CPV-1: This causes growths on the face.
• CPV-2: This one causes growths on the belly and feet. 

Most species of mammals as well as many species of birds and reptiles each have their own papilloma viruses. The characteristics of the viral growths and their ability to cause illness vary across species. 

How Do Dogs Contract It?

Canine papilloma virus is transmitted through direct contact or through contamination in the environment such as water bowls and toys. CPV is common among dogs who frequent daycare facilities and dog parks because of the risk of contamination. From exposure to symptoms (incubation period) is 1-2 months.

In order to become infected, dogs must have a compromised or immature immune system. This is why viral growths are most common in puppies and senior dogs. Dogs on immunosuppressants such as steroids or cyclosporine are also at increased risk. The virus is not transmissible to people or other non-dog pets. Once a dog has been infected with CPV she cannot be reinfected with the same strain though several strains are known to exist. Dogs are only infectious to others when they have growths. 

Symptoms of Canine Papilloma Virus

CPV-1 causes characteristic growths on the moist tissues of a dog’s mouth or eyes. For this reason some people call canine oral papillomas “dog mouth warts.” The growths are usually small, though occasionally they can grow large. Papillomas have rough edges, known as fimbriae, that resemble a cauliflower or sea anemone. Often CPV-1 papillomas are found in clusters. CPV-1 growths do not become cancerous and they are not painful. If there are many papillomas or they are large a dog can have difficulty eating. Growths on the eyes can be uncomfortable and cause scratches on the eye (corneal ulcers). 

CPV-2 growths have the potential to become malignant (cancerous). They do not have the characteristic appearance of the CPV-1 papillomas and tend to be found as solitary growths, not clusters. They are usually less than 1 inch and are raised above the skin. Biopsy is usually required to make a diagnosis. The most common place for these growths is between the toes but CPV-2 papillomas can also occur on the belly of dogs. These may also be called cutaneous inverted papillomas or endophytic warts.

Dogs with healthy immune systems and those who have previously been exposed to the virus will not develop warts. There are no tests available for exposure to CPV. Without visible growths, a dog is not considered to have contracted CPV.

How to Diagnose Canine Papilloma Virus

Because of their characteristic appearance, CPV-1 papillomas are diagnosed by physical examination. Your veterinarian will closely examine the inside and outside of the mouth, nose, and eyes for additional papillomas. 

CPV-2 cutaneous papillomas require biopsy to diagnose because they can look like many other types of skin growths on dogs. 

Canine Papilloma Virus Treatment for Dogs

Usually no treatment is needed for canine papilloma virus as the CPV-1 papillomas will fall off within 2 months. However, if there are many of them, if they are large, or if they otherwise interfere with a dog’s normal activity they can be removed by a veterinarian. Cryosurgery, or freezing of the wart, is often effective. 

Antibiotics are not effective against this virus and are not prescribed for treatment unless there are secondary bacterial infections in the mouth. 

CPV-2 papillomas should be surgically removed so that they do not have the opportunity to become cancerous. 

There has been some success with a topical antiviral medication called imiquimod. However this treatment takes several weeks and may cause itching and discomfort at the application site. 

How to Prevent Canine Papilloma Virus

Canine papilloma virus is a socially transmitted disease, so the best way to prevent the spread is to stay away from infectious dogs. This, however, may be easier said than done.

Cautious daycare facilities will often have rules that dogs with active CPV-1 papillomas must stay home until the growths are removed. While this will reduce the likelihood of spread it cannot completely eliminate it as some growths may not be noticed until they have reached a certain size. 

If your dog has papillomas you should stay away from the dog park and other dogs until the warts fall off or are removed.

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Dog parents might wonder: can dogs eat peanut butter, too? Even more important – is peanut butter safe for dogs? 

Below is some information on the benefits of this treat, and how to be sure it’s a good option for your canine companion. 

Can Dogs Have Peanut Butter?

Yes, dogs can eat a small amount of peanut butter as a treat every now and then. However, there are a few things to keep in mind to ensure this food will be safe for your pet. 

“Peanut butter, in general, is a fairly safe food item to feed your healthy pet that has no chronic, diagnosed medical disorder,” says Dr. Jodi Lynn Smith, a veterinarian at Animal Care Unlimited in Columbus, Ohio. “For pets with food hypersensitivity, certain (not all) allergies, and chronic inflammatory bowel disease or pancreatitis, peanut butter is too high in fat and could trigger an inflammatory response in the gut.” 

It’s also necessary to avoid toxic ingredients like xylitol and chocolate that are added to some peanut butter. Peanut butter might contain salt and sugar that might adversely affect your pet’s health. Therefore, natural peanut butter without added ingredients is the best, safest choice to ensure your dog will have a safe and tasty treat. 

Remember, it’s always best to talk to your veterinarian before introducing a new food, especially if your dog has a medical problem or is overweight. 

Can Puppies Have Peanut Butter?

Puppies can eat small amounts of peanut butter just like adult dogs. Again, it’s best to consult with your veterinarian to be sure this treat is good for your puppy, and it’s important to avoid peanut butter that contains dangerous ingredients.  

Emma Passman, a pet food formulator and pet nutritionist who has been working in the pet food industry for 20 years, advises that a puppy’s digestion can be sensitive after weaning. For this reason, it’s wise to wait until he is at least 12 to 16 weeks old. 

She also recommends introducing peanut butter gradually and watching your puppy’s weight.     

Is Peanut Butter Good for Dogs?

Peanut butter can give your dog nutrients that may help support his overall health and energy. For example, it can provide your pet with protein and healthy fats, as well as nutrients like B vitamins and vitamin E. 

Despite these beneficial properties, stick with feeding your dog a small amount of peanut butter, keeping in mind that it’s best used as a special treat. 

While a small amount of peanut butter can be good for dogs, too much peanut butter can quickly lead to weight gain. Similarly, some dogs, such as those with a history of pancreatitis, are sensitive to high fat foods so peanut butter is not a good choice for them. Again, just make sure that there are no extra ingredients like xylitol.

Do Dogs Like Peanut Butter?

Many dogs love the taste of peanut butter. Generally, they go nuts for it. But every dog is different, so don’t assume that your companion will dig into his first serving of peanut butter. 

The only way to know if your dog likes peanut butter is by offering him some and seeing how he reacts. You might be surprised to discover that he doesn’t like it, or you might be able to use it in various ways, such as during playtime and training, to keep your dog happy. 

“In small amounts, peanut butter is a relatively safe food to feed your pet for good behavior, during training sessions, to help facilitate giving prescribed medications, and as an occasional treat,” says Dr. Smith.

Peanut Butter for Dogs: Types and Variations

The peanut butter you eat may not be safe for your dog to consume. “It’s always better to choose something very simple with very limited ingredients other than peanuts,” Passman advises. “Peanut butter containing a lot of salt should be avoided.” 

Consider the following to help ensure you select a dog-safe peanut butter:

Look for natural ingredients. Natural peanut butter that’s unsalted and doesn’t contain other ingredients, such as added sugar, is a good choice. If you prefer feeding your dog organic food, that’s an option too. 

Don’t skip reading the label. You might come across brands that make peanut butter for dogs, but don’t presume they’re going to be fine without checking the ingredients. Some of them might contain additional ingredients that may increase the amount of sugar per serving or be inappropriate for your dog’s diet. 

Consider making your own peanut butter. Homemade peanut butter can give you peace of mind because you’ll know exactly what’s in it, and it might be an affordable way of giving your dog the healthiest peanut butter possible. 

Avoid dangerous ingredients at all costs. Xylitol is a sweetener that’s found in a lot of peanut butters, but it’s toxic to dogs and can lead to death. Any peanut butter that contains this ingredient should NEVER be fed to a dog.   

Can Dogs Eat Crunchy Peanut Butter?

“Dogs can eat crunchy or smooth peanut butter, depending on their preference,” says Passman 

However, Dr. Smith recommends creamy peanut butter over crunchy options. “The small pieces of peanuts can become lodged in your pet’s teeth or gingiva and contribute to oral discomfort and periodontal disease,” she says.

Can Dogs Eat Peanut Butter and Jelly?

No, dogs should not eat peanut butter and jelly. Although your dog might be unaffected after secretly scarfing down a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, both Dr. Smith and Passman recommend sticking with plain peanut butter because jelly adds too much sugar to a dog’s diet. 

Can Dogs Eat Peanut Butter With Honey?

Some peanut butters contain honey, so you might wonder if it’s okay for your dog to have this combination. Honey isn’t toxic to dogs, but it’s not something you should actively feed your pup. Unfortunately, like jelly, honey can increase the amount of sugar that your dog consumes, so it’s best to avoid peanut butter with added honey. 

Can Dogs Eat Powdered Peanut Butter?

Yes! Powdered peanut butter is a great lower calorie option to give to your pup. Mixed with water, it has the same taste and texture as peanut butter with just a fraction of the fat calories. This is especially a good option for small dogs and those on fat-restricted diets.

How Much Peanut Butter Can You Feed a Dog?

When it comes to how much peanut butter your dog can eat, Dr. Smith recommends starting small and suggests a range between ¼ and 1 teaspoon. “Smaller dogs would get closer to ¼ teaspoon, while larger dogs could get a teaspoon,” she says.

If your dog tolerates the peanut butter well and doesn’t have any negative reactions, you can increase that amount, as long as it stays in line with your dog’s caloric needs and doesn’t make up a large portion of your dog’s diet. Peanut butter and other treats should make up no more than a total of 10 percent of your dog’s daily calories.

“I would not advise giving a larger amount to a dog that has never been fed peanut butter until small amounts can be reliably given without adverse effects,” says Dr. Smith.

Risks of Feeding Peanut Butter to Dogs

Dogs and peanut butter don’t always mix, so look for symptoms like digestive upset or allergic reactions. Examples include diarrhea, vomiting, and itching. 

Even if your dog isn’t allergic to peanut butter, if he eats too much of it, he might gain weight. Instead of giving your dog this food every day, make it a treat he can enjoy once in a while. 

This can’t be stressed enough: dangerous ingredients should be avoided. Two toxic ingredients to stay away from are chocolate and xylitol. “Human versions can contain ingredients not suitable for dogs,” says Passman, so review the ingredient label closely before feeding your dog peanut butter. 

3 Ways to Feed Peanut Butter to Dogs 

If your dog enjoys the taste of peanut butter, there are some fun ways to incorporate it into your routine as a special treat. Here are a couple suggestions for feeding your dog peanut butter:

1. Use peanut butter during playtime by adding some to your dog’s KONG toy, lick mat, or puzzle feeder. 

2. Give peanut butter as a reward during training sessions. “Loading a syringe is one way to help train your pet and deliver ultra-small doses of peanut butter,” says Dr. Smith.  

3. If you’re having difficulty medicating your dog, a small amount of peanut butter might be enough to hide a pill and ensure your dog swallows it with ease.  

Remember, peanut butter can be high in fat and calories. If you aren’t sure how many calories your dog should be consuming each day, ask your veterinarian for guidance. 

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If you’ve been triggered by that classic dog-got-into-something crunch, you’re probably wondering if a dog eating acorns is something to worry about. As it turns out, these tree nuts are not a safe snack for dogs. In some cases, they can even cause serious health complications. That’s why if there’s any indication your dog has been eating acorns, you should listen to your gut and call your veterinarian ASAP to figure out next steps. 

Read on to find out whether acorns are bad for dogs, what to do if your dog eats acorns, and how to prevent this risky behavior. 

Are Acorns Bad for Dogs? 

A common feature of fall decor, acorns look pretty harmless. But these bitter-tasting tree nuts can be bad for our canine companions. “Some dogs can have gastrointestinal upset from eating acorns like vomiting, diarrhea, or an upset stomach,” says Dr. Erin Ray, a clinical assistant professor of primary care and general surgery at Texas A&M University Veterinary Medical Teaching Hospital (2). 

Are Acorns Poisonous to Dogs? 

Acorns don’t just turn your dog’s stomach. You might be surprised to learn that acorns can also make dogs dangerously sick.

Interestingly, acorns are especially toxic to cattle and horses. This is likely due to high amounts of harmful compounds called tannins, which are made of tiny bits of poisonous particles (3). Fortunately tannins are very bitter, which makes most dogs think twice about taking a second bite.

While there have been more reports of serious complications in larger animals, research suggests toxic compounds found in acorns seem to impact dogs in similar ways. As such, no matter the size of your pup, it’s best to keep acorns off the menu. 

Mature acorns—the brown ones that fall from trees—contain toxins that are bad for dogs. But buds and immature green acorns actually contain the highest concentration of toxins. So be sure to keep acorns of all types away from your pup throughout the year. 

4 Dangers of Acorns for Dogs 

While plenty of dogs aren’t interested in munching on acorns, it’s worth knowing what may happen if your dog eats some and what to do. 

Keep in mind that there are very few reports of dogs who get sick from acorns, despite how widespread acorns are and how many dogs have access to them.

Here are a few potential health hazards to know: 

1. Acorn poisoning 

Within hours, toxins found in acorns can disrupt your dog’s ability to digest food as they’re released inside the GI tract. Over time, they can also cause serious damage to organs like the kidneys and liver (3).

Although this does not happen often, there have been a handful of reports of sick dogs showing up at the veterinarian’s office with a belly full of acorns. In one case, a pesky Labrador allowed to run free in his parents’ yard gobbled up around 10 to 15 acorns. He later became lethargic and eventually suffered from a bout of vomiting and diarrhea. Thankfully, with supportive treatment from a veterinarian, he was able to get out of the danger zone and recover (3).

While extreme, this is one clear example of why pet parents shouldn’t ignore acorn-related health problems. “If you’re concerned a dog has eaten acorns, you need to go to the veterinarian,” says Dr. Nancy Welborn, an assistant professor of veterinary clinical sciences at the LSU School of Veterinary Medicine in Baton Rouge. 

With next steps like a physical exam, abdominal palpation, bloodwork, and imaging, your veterinarian can determine the best course of action to protect your pet. 

2. Gastrointestinal blockage 

One of the most common reasons veterinarians see dogs for acorns is obstruction. Acorns can get stuck in part of the GI tract, such as the small intestine, and block it up. Depending on how recently the acorns were eaten and the size of the dog, veterinarians can palpate or feel around the belly for the presence of acorns. If the dog ate the acorns within the past few hours and they are still in the stomach, your veterinarian may be able to induce vomiting to get rid of them or go in with an endoscopy (a tool to see inside the body) to remove them, says Dr. Welborn.  

3. Choking hazard 

In general, it’s clear that you don’t want your dog eating acorns. But if yours is gobbling them up, there’s also the potential danger that they could choke on pieces of acorn or a whole nut, Dr. Ray says.   

Rough pieces of acorns can be irritating to the esophagus even if they don’t cause choking. This can lead to pain, decreased appetite, and even hacking up small amounts of blood.

4. Dental damage 

Another worry: “Acorns can cause dental trauma if they’re hard enough when chewed on,” says Dr. Ray. Very hard objects from nuts to chew toys can break a dog’s teeth. If left untreated, tooth fractures can cause a lot of pain and open the mouth up to a potential infection (4).

The good news is, many dogs aren’t interested in eating acorns anyway. But if yours is on the curious side or tends to gobble down just about anything when he’s hungry, there are ways to keep him from getting into acorns or manage an exposure. 

What to Do If Your Dog Eats an Acorn 

If you catch your dog with an acorn, step one is to stop him from eating it. “It would be best to try to gently remove the acorn from your dog’s mouth if you’re able to do so safely,” says Dr. Ray. 

Often, it’s tempting to just watch and wait if your dog gets into something you suspect might not be good for him. When it comes to acorns, though, put your dog’s health and well-being first. Dr. Welborn recommends reaching out to your veterinarian for their advice no matter what. 

“We always err on the side of safety because there’s really no known dose per dog, so it depends on the dog, what they’ve eaten, and the amount they’ve eaten,” she says. For these reasons, at the very least you want to call your veterinarian to talk it out. 

Early signs to look out for that could indicate acorn poisoning in dogs include a dip in energy, loss of appetite, vomiting, and diarrhea (3).

How to Prevent Dogs from Eating Acorns 

Clearly, prevention is the best medicine when it comes to dogs and acorns. To keep your dog from eating acorns, follow these tips:

Brush up on basic training cues. If your dog seems to have no interest in eating acorns, it’s okay to let him be around them. But if he goes for them, start training him with “leave it” or “drop it” commands to teach that acorns are always off-limits. 

Rake up acorns. Clearing your yard of acorns can be a major headache. But if your dog has a penchant for eating acorns and you haven’t been able to train him out of the habit, it’s your best bet to keep him safe—especially if he’s an outdoorsy boy. 

Take leashed walks. If removing acorns is too tall an order, that’s perfectly understandable. In some places, an acorn-free yard is all but impossible. In this case, try to stick with leashed walks and be on acorn alert as you go. 

References

1. “Why Are There So Many Acorns This Year?” Purdue University Forestry & Natural Resources. Oct. 2021. Retrieved from https://www.purdue.edu/fnr/extension/question-why-are-there-so-many-acorns-this-year/
2. Autumn poisoning hazards for pets. The Veterinary Nurse. Sept. 2022. Vol. 13, No. 7. https://doi.org/10.12968/vetn.2022.13.7.318
3. Camacho F, Stewart S, Tinson E. Successful management of suspected acorn (Quercus petraea) toxicity in a dog. Can Vet J. 2021;62(6):581-585.  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8118173/
4. Risks from a fractured tooth. Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine. Retrieved from https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/riney-canine-health-center/health-info/risks-fractured-tooth

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Interestingly, dogs do not get cavities the way humans do. Cavities, known as dental caries, are caused by two specific types of bacteria (Streptococcus mutans and Streptococcus sobrinus) which dogs do not have. They do however develop very severe dental disease including rotten teeth and gums.

Here, we’ll outline the causes of periodontal disease, how to spot rotten teeth, and what you can do to prevent dog tooth decay.

What Do Rotten Dog Teeth Look Like?

Most pet parents don’t routinely look closely at their dog’s teeth. This is because dogs don’t generally appreciate fingers in their mouths. So the visual appearance isn’t the first sign that pet parents notice in dogs with rotten teeth. One of the first signs of tooth decay in dogs that pet parents notice is bad breath.

Dog teeth, like human teeth, are made of a crown (the part you can see) and the root. The root is under the gingiva (medical term for the gums) and is the part that both anchors the tooth in place and connects it to the body’s blood supply. Deep inside of the tooth, from the root to the crown, is the pulp. This is the living part of the tooth and the part that becomes very painful when teeth are rotten. 

Some rotten teeth are covered in a thick layer of gray-brown-green plaque, also known as calculus. This is usually worst on the teeth in the back of the mouth (premolars and molars) where it is most difficult to see. However, it can also develop on the canines and incisors (front teeth).

Sometimes the crown of the tooth looks normal but there is severe infection underneath the gums. This makes the gums look red or bleed easily and is known as gum disease or gingivitis.

Another sign of rotten teeth in dogs include exposure of the roots due to decay of the gingiva, the jaw bone, and the structures that attach the tooth to the bone. This is known as periodontal disease. This can be seen as retraction of the gum line so that the tooth looks longer than it used to or you may even see multiple roots of premolars and molars.

Signs and Symptoms of Rotten Teeth in Dogs

The most common first sign of rotten dog teeth that pet parents notice is bad breath (halitosis). This is due to bacteria building up in the mouth. Over time these bacteria can destroy the gums, teeth, and even the jaw bones.   

Just like in humans, dental disease in dogs is painful. In addition to bad breath, pet parents may notice:

• Discoloration of teeth
• Loose teeth
• Broken or missing teeth
• Swollen areas of the face (including under the jaw or under the eye)
• Bleeding from the mouth
• Discharge from the eye or nose 

In the early stages of periodontal disease, dogs may bleed from their gums on chew toys or develop very red inflamed gums after playing with those toys.

Some dogs with rotten teeth will be unwilling to eat hard foods or any foods at all. Or they may only chew food on one side of their mouth. Dogs with rotten teeth may stop playing with their favorite chew toys or stop playing fetch. These are signs of mouth pain. 

Other signs of mouth pain include:

• Excessive drooling
• Rubbing or pawing at the face
• Bleeding from the mouth
• Not wanting to be touched on the head or muzzle

In the final stages of dental disease, teeth will become very loose and fall out. When rotten teeth fall out they leave a pocket where bacteria can thrive and continue to cause pain.

What Causes Rotten Dog Teeth?

Tooth decay in dogs is caused by several factors. The most important one is lack of dental care and dental hygiene. Brushing a dog’s teeth every day with a veterinarian-recommended dog toothpaste significantly decreases the risk they will develop dental disease. 

But, it doesn’t eliminate the risk. Breed genetics and conformation (shape of the face and mouth) also contribute to the risk of rotten teeth in dogs. Some breeds such as Dachshunds and Yorkies are cursed with bad dental genetics. In these breeds even daily brushing may not be enough to prevent dental disease. 

Similarly, brachycephalic (short-faced) dogs – like French Bulldogs, Pugs, and Shih Tzus – and those with under- or over- bites (malocclusion) are at a higher risk of developing dental disease. This is because these dogs have crowded mouths and are more likely to develop rotten teeth. 

Aging itself is not a risk factor. Rather, years of poor dental hygiene are most noticeable in older dogs.

The Dangers of Rotten Dog Teeth 

Rotten and decaying teeth are painful and dangerous for dogs. Not only can they make your pet not want to eat or drink, but they can lead to other diseases. 

Dental disease puts dogs at risk for the development of heart disease. It causes elevated liver enzymes which may impact how your dog can tolerate medications. Rotten teeth also weaken the jaw bone around them leading to future dental loss and putting your dog at risk for a jaw fracture. 

It is important not to underestimate the severity of pain and discomfort that rotten teeth can cause. Dogs explore their world with their mouths – which includes playing with their toys and grooming themselves. Dogs with painful mouths may stop grooming and even stop playing with their toys.   

What to Do If Your Dog Has Rotten Teeth

If you think your dog has a rotten tooth, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian right away since extraction of the tooth may be required. 

If your dog is in a lot of pain, you may need to visit an emergency clinic to start pain control and antibiotics before being able to see your regular veterinarian for a dental procedure. Unfortunately, most emergency clinics do not have the equipment to perform dental procedures so they cannot replace an appointment with your regular veterinarian.

By the time your pet is showing signs of rotten teeth it is too late to start brushing. Nothing you can do at home will eliminate the bacteria or do anything to address the rotten teeth. 

If your dog is not eating dry food and you think it is because of dental disease, you can feed a canned or wet dog food diet until your dog is seen by your vet. However, changing their diet will not eliminate the pain or the infection.              

Dog Tooth Cleaning and Extraction

If your veterinarian recommends extracting a tooth or multiple teeth, listen to their advice. Rotten teeth will not get better with antibiotics. Diseased teeth are painful and if left in the mouth can exacerbate dental disease of the teeth around them. 

During an extraction procedure, your veterinarian will anesthetize your pet and use an ultrasonic scaler to remove bacteria under the gums as well as any calculus on the teeth. Dental X-rays (radiographs) will pinpoint any areas of disease deep within the bones. The severity of dental disease is characterized by several factors including mobility of the tooth, root exposure, and evidence of infection of the root on dental X-ray. 

Teeth that are diseased should be extracted. Depending on the tooth or teeth involved and the severity of disease some extractions are very simple while others require drilling the tooth out of its socket. Interestingly, sometimes it is the most severely rotten teeth that require the most work to extract. 

After the procedure your veterinarian will prescribe pain control and may recommend a soft diet for several days while your dog’s mouth heals. 

How to Prevent Tooth Decay in Dogs

The best and most effective thing you can do to prevent tooth decay in dogs is daily brushing. While that may feel impossible, it is made easy through positive reinforcement training with the toothbrush and toothpaste that comes in flavors dogs like (chicken, bacon, etc). Do not use human toothpaste when brushing your dog’s teeth. If you need help training your dog to accept brushing, talk to your veterinarian or local dog trainer. 

Some foods, dental chews, and toys can help slow the development of dental tartar and gingivitis. These items have a special symbol on their label with the letters VOHC. This stands for the Veterinary Oral Health Council, a group that promotes dental health through tested products. 

It is an old wive’s tale that hard kibble helps prevent dental disease. There are some diets specially formulated to help reduce the risk of dental disease, this list of foods can be found at the VOHC website.

Similarly, hard bones, antlers, and the like can be good chew toys but they can also fracture teeth. The general rule of thumb is that anything harder than your fingernail can damage dog teeth. 

And the value of regular check-ups with a veterinarian cannot be ignored. Your veterinarian is able to look at all of your dog’s teeth and is trained to notice early signs of dental disease. It is much easier (less painful for your dog, less expensive for you) to keep your dog’s mouth healthy than to treat dental disease after it happens. 

The post Rotten Dog Teeth: Causes, Signs, and What to Do appeared first on Great Pet Care.

The unfortunate reality is that almost anything can be a sign of cancer in dogs – including no signs at all. But, that doesn’t mean you should worry about every little thing. It means you should pay attention to your dog so that you notice changes and can monitor them appropriately. 

For every symptom of illness in a dog there is a list of potential health problems that may be the cause – ranging from mild to severe. Just because a symptom can be associated with cancer in dogs does not mean that it is cancer in dogs. 

While this article covers possible signs of cancer in dogs, it’s important not to jump to conclusions and to discuss your dog’s specific symptoms with your veterinarian.  

6 Types of Dog Cancer: Signs and Symptoms 

Before we discuss signs of cancer in dogs, it’s important to understand that our canine companions can develop different types of cancer – just like humans.

Each type of cancer may have different symptoms, often depending on the affected organ or location on the body. For example, dogs with lung cancer may cough while those with bone cancer may limp. 

The most common types of cancer in dogs are lymphoma (lymphosarcoma), bone cancer (osteosarcoma), soft tissue tumors (soft tissue sarcoma), and skin cancer (mast cell tumors). Other canine cancers with discrete symptoms include mammary cancer and bladder cancer. Here is more information about these types of dog cancer and some of the common signs associated with them:

There are many additional types of dog cancers that have more vague symptoms. For example, cancers of the stomach, intestines, or liver can look like intestinal upset with signs like nausea, decreased appetite, diarrhea, and vomiting. Cancer of the blood or bone marrow may cause tiredness that is mistaken for normal aging in dogs.

Lung cancer in dogs is more often due to the spread (metastasis) of other types of cancers. These are called secondary or metastatic tumors. Primary lung tumors are rare in dogs. Signs of tumors in the lung include coughing, decreased energy, difficulty breathing, decreased appetite, and weight loss. 

5 More General Signs of Cancer in Dogs

Cancer does what it wants – meaning cancer can cause just about any sign of illness. Even with specific types of cancer it can be hard to describe the most common signs because each dog is different and any sign of cancer is also a sign of several other less serious problems. 

Making canine cancer even more troublesome is that many dogs show no signs until the cancer is very advanced. At this time, dogs often display every sign of sickness at once. 

This is part of why your veterinarian recommends regular check-ups every 6 to 12 months. Veterinarians are trained to notice changes that pet parents don’t see. Some of this is based on a physical exam, while routine blood work can detect other hidden signs of cancer. Cancer caught early is always more treatable than cancer left undetected.

Some more general changes in your dog that could signal cancer and should always be evaluated by a veterinarian as soon as possible include:

• Hard growths under the skin
• Swollen lymph nodes (under chin, behind knees easiest places to notice)
• Sudden onset cough in a senior or geriatric dog
• A new skin growth that does not look like the others
• Anything growing in the mouth 

Any lump that is bigger than 1cm (1/2 inch), is there for more than a month, grows, changes, bleeds, or doesn’t look or feel like the other lumps on your dog should be examined. It is always easier (safer, less painful, less expensive) to remove a small mass than a big one, especially on the limbs and face. Any growth that suddenly changes should be examined. 

What Should You Do If You See Cancer Symptoms in Dogs?

It’s easy to start to spiral out of control if you suspect your dog may have cancer, but it’s important to keep one thing in mind – don’t panic.

The most important thing you can do is pay attention to changes in your dog. If your dog is just not acting like herself in any way, make an appointment with your veterinarian for a few days out (3-5 days or when your veterinarian has availability). If your dog is still showing signs at that point, take her in. If not, cancel the appointment at least 24 hours beforehand. 

Of course, if your dog worsens before the appointment, try to get an immediate appointment or go to an emergency clinic.

In addition to a comprehensive physical exam, common tests when there is concern for cancer include blood work, X-rays, ultrasound, and collecting samples of the possible mass (aspirate or biopsy). The tissue samples are then sent to a veterinary pathologist for evaluation and diagnosis. 

Your veterinarian will recommend tests based on your dog’s symptoms, history, and physical exam. Depending on her level of concern for cancer your veterinarian may recommend you see a veterinary oncologist. Oncologists are specialists at treating cancer. 

Many dog cancers are treatable. Some cancers can be surgically removed while others are treated with chemotherapy or radiation. Chemotherapy in dogs is much more gentle than chemotherapy in humans. 

In conclusion, always consult your veterinarian if you notice new symptoms or behaviors in your dog. Signs of cancer in dogs can mimic symptoms of many other conditions and health issues, and your dog’s veterinarian can diagnose and treat your pet appropriately. 

The post Signs of Cancer in Dogs: Warnings to Watch For appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While vomiting is one of the most common reasons dogs are seen in emergency veterinary clinics, bloody vomit is rare. This is good because vomiting blood indicates there is something critically wrong with your dog.

Dog Vomiting Blood: Is It a Cause for Concern?

Yes – a dog vomiting blood is ALWAYS a cause for concern. The medical term for bloody vomit is hematemesis (hema = blood, emesis = vomit). 

A dog who is vomiting blood but otherwise acting normal may be in the early stage of serious disease. Waiting even 12 hours to see a veterinarian could allow the illness to progress.

Sometimes there are other symptoms along with hematemesis in dogs that can help veterinarians diagnose the cause of illness. Blood in stool and vomit indicates a serious gastrointestinal illness for which your dog will need to be treated by a veterinarian. The combination of vomiting and diarrhea (bloody stool is usually watery) quickly leads to severe dehydration which makes your dog feel very sick.

Vomiting blood is never normal, even if your dog is trying to hide how poorly he feels. It should always be treated as an emergency. 

Coughing Up Blood Vs. Vomiting Blood

Coughing up blood is distinct from vomiting up blood. Coughing up blood, known as hemoptysis, is due to irritation, infection, or other disease of the lungs. It can be caused by some of the same systemic diseases as hematemesis but may require different diagnostic tests or treatments. 

Types of Bloody Vomit in Dogs

Blood in dog vomit can have several appearances, each relating to different sources of the blood.

Liquid red blood, known as frank blood, usually comes from the esophagus. 

Dark blood that is clotted or may look like coffee grounds indicates that the blood has interacted with stomach acid and therefore is more likely to come from a source within the stomach or upper intestines. 

Either of these types of blood in dog vomit should be taken very seriously and your dog should be seen by a veterinarian immediately regardless of whether he is acting normal or not.

Pink-tinted, foamy vomit or small specks of blood in dog vomit indicate irritation and are typically less urgent if your dog is otherwise behaving normally (eating and drinking, playing, etc). In these cases it may be appropriate to monitor your dog for up to 24 hours before having your pet seen by a vet. If the blood in the vomit worsens or your dog becomes lethargic or otherwise ill, the illness should be treated as an emergency.

Why is My Dog Throwing Up Blood?

There is a long list of causes that could contribute to a dog throwing up blood. However, they all require evaluation by a veterinarian. 

Briefly, causes of blood in dog vomit can include:

Something Your Dog Ate

• Medications (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory NSAIDs, steroids, blood thinners, etc.)
• Toxins (household cleaners, some plants, etc.)
• Poisons (rat bait, etc.)
• Foreign objects (toys, sticks, and other non-food items)

Diseases of the Blood

• Immune mediated diseases
• Coagulopathy (blood clotting disorders)

Systemic Disease

• Acute hemorrhagic diarrhea syndrome (AHDS) also known as hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (HGE)
• Pancreatitis
• Addison’s disease (hypoadrenocorticism)
• Chronic vomiting or regurgitation
• Ulcers
• Cancer

Other

• Trauma
• Parasites

Diagnosing the Cause of Your Dog Throwing Up Blood

As previously mentioned – if your dog is throwing up blood, it’s important to visit your vet right away to receive a proper diagnosis and treatment plan. 

Although it may seem gross, take a picture of the bloody vomit to show your veterinarian. This can be more helpful than you think in diagnosing your pet. 

In order to diagnose the cause of your dog’s bloody vomit tests such as bloodwork and X-rays (radiographs) may be recommended. Additional tests for specific diseases such as pancreatitis and Addison’s disease may be required based on initial diagnostic test results. 

Treatment for Bloody Dog Vomit 

Treatment for a dog throwing up blood is two-fold: it is directed at treating the underlying cause and managing symptoms. 

Treating your dog’s symptoms may include fluid therapy and strong anti-vomiting medication. Additional medications called gastroprotectants may be used to limit further damage to the tissue of the stomach and esophagus. 

Treatment for the underlying cause may be medical or surgical. If a foreign object is causing your dog to vomit blood, it will need to be surgically removed. Similarly, some types of cancer or masses may be treated or managed with surgery. 

Hospitalization may be required to treat your dog’s bloody vomit. Staying at the animal hospital or veterinary clinic allows your veterinarian to carefully monitor your pet through the initial stages of treatment. 

Additional treatment at home after hospitalization such as a special diet or administering medications may be required.

Whether you’re dealing with a one-time event or an ongoing medical condition, the cost of testing and treatment for dogs throwing up blood can add up fast. Having a pet health insurance policy from a company such as Lemonade can come in handy. A basic policy covers medical care and treatment for things like vomiting, diarrhea, and canine injuries. Bloody vomit may be covered under their basic plan if any procedures or diagnostic testing are required.

Are There Home Remedies?

There are no appropriate home remedies for a dog vomiting blood. This is because there are many different causes and some of them are life-threatening. 

Only if your dog has been evaluated recently by a veterinarian for his bloody vomit and the veterinarian has recommended over-the-counter medications should they be used.

How to Prevent Dogs from Throwing Up Blood 

One important step in prevention is to always keep all medications, household cleaners, and toxins out of reach of your dog. If you use rat bait or other poisons around the house or barn keep the package somewhere safe so that you can show it to your veterinarian in case of an emergency. 

If you spray pesticides or herbicides keep your dog away from the area for at least 24 hours or until otherwise directed on the package label.

While it may not be possible to prevent your dog from throwing up, you can reduce the severity of your dog’s illness through close monitoring. Call your veterinarian at the first sign of illness. Don’t wait until your dog is critically ill and vomiting blood before calling the veterinarian. It is always easier (and less expensive) to treat a dog in the early stages of illness.

The post Dog Throwing Up Blood: Causes and What to Do appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While the other basic vital signs, including body temperature, pulse, and breathing rate, differ between people and dogs, normal blood pressure values are the same in dogs as people but are taken differently.

Understanding Blood Pressure in Dogs

Blood pressure is the force that propels blood through the vascular system to deliver oxygen and nutrients to every cell of the body. Blood pressure is determined by many factors, including how hard and fast the heart pumps and how dilated or constricted blood vessels are. Each of these is influenced by various hormones, physical fitness, diet and genetics. 

There are two components to blood pressure: systolic and diastolic. Systolic blood pressure is the maximum pressure during a heartbeat, while diastolic blood pressure is the minimum pressure between heartbeats. Blood pressure readings are normally written as one number over another number – for example: 120/80. Systolic blood pressure is the top number and diastolic blood pressure is the bottom number.

Blood pressure can tell us a lot about an animal’s overall health. When blood pressure becomes high or low, it is very dangerous and can mean a serious health problem must be addressed. 

What’s a Normal Dog Blood Pressure?

The normal range for a dog’s blood pressure is a systolic reading between 110 and 160 mmHg and a diastolic reading between 60 and 90 mmHg. 

In dogs, a systolic blood pressure above 160 mmHg is high (hypertension), while a systolic pressure below 90 is low (hypotension). These values are the same across all breeds and sizes of dogs. Young puppies may have lower blood pressure, which is normal.

Because blood pressure is measured at a vet clinic and many animals are stressed or excited there, your veterinarian may not diagnose your dog with high blood pressure until the systolic reading is greater than 160 or 180.

What Causes High Blood Pressure in Dogs? 

Many different factors can cause high blood pressure in dogs. While there may be some genetic predispositions, hypertension in dogs is almost always due to an underlying issue, including:

• Obesity
• Cushing’s disease 
• Heart disease
• Kidney disease
• Tumors or cancer – some types of cancers or non-cancerous tumors can secrete hormones that lead to hypertension, while others create hypertension due to their size or location.
• Severe injuries or trauma, such as a dog fight or snake bite, can cause temporary hypertension. Adequate pain control quickly settles blood pressure to the normal range.

Symptoms of High Blood Pressure in Dogs 

Symptoms of high blood pressure in dogs are typically associated with primary disease symptoms. Symptoms tend to progress slowly, making them easy to miss. These may include:

• Decreased energy
• Exercise intolerance
• Eye pain
• Vision problems
• Blindness
• Behavior changes
• Increased thirst and urination
• Seizure or collapse
• Nose bleed

Your veterinarian may notice other symptoms of high blood pressure during a physical exam, including a new or worsened heart murmur and eye changes. Similarly, hypertension in dogs is associated with abnormalities in bloodwork, including kidney function measures, electrolytes and evidence of inflammation. 

Consequences of High Blood Pressure in Dogs

Untreated high blood pressure in dogs can cause severe illnesses, including:

• Glaucoma
• Blindness
• Brain damage
• Seizures
• Kidney disease
• Heart disease
• Stroke

Treatment for Hypertension in Dogs

Treatment for hypertension in dogs is two-fold. Oral medications can reduce blood pressure and are very useful as part of a comprehensive treatment plan. 

Treatment plans should address the underlying cause of high blood pressure, such as Cushing’s or kidney disease. Treatment plans may include diet changes, such as low sodium or prescription diets, to manage the primary disease. Weight loss may be recommended, along with a slowly building exercise plan.

What Causes Low Blood Pressure in Dogs? 

Low blood pressure (hypotension) in dogs is caused by severe illness, injury or trauma. It is very abnormal and always an emergency. It can be caused by:

• Blood loss
• Abnormal vascular function
• Low protein
• Infection of the blood
• Any other cause of severe illness, such as heart failure or neurologic dysfunction

Some chronic diseases, such as Addison’s disease, can cause episodes of hypotension. Heart failure also leads to hypotension, in which the heart can no longer contract well enough to generate adequate pressure to send blood through all the vessels of the major organs. 

Symptoms of Low Blood Pressure in Dogs

Symptoms of hypotension in dogs include:

• Lethargy
• Weakness
• Collapse
• Sudden death

Treatment for Hypotension in Dogs

Treatment for hypotension is always an emergency. Dogs diagnosed with low blood pressure require immediate in-hospital treatments such as IV fluid therapy, blood transfusions and fast-acting injectable medications. 

Once the dog is stable, treatments focus on the primary disease or injury. 

How to Take a Dog’s Blood Pressure

The most common way to take a dog’s blood pressure is indirectly via the doppler or oscillometric methods. The doppler method is equivalent to a healthcare provider manually taking a person’s blood pressure with a cuff and stethoscope. It is more accurate than the oscillometric method and is generally preferred by veterinarians. 

While blood pressure is a helpful measurement in assessing your dog’s overall health, it is not generally recommended that you try to take it at home. It is far more beneficial to monitor your dog for more easily recognized symptoms such as lethargy, panting, and changes in behavior. 

If your veterinarian is concerned about your dog’s blood pressure, they will likely ask you to have it rechecked in a clinic as needed. This allows for consistency in the procedure and less stress for you over inaccurate high or low readings. 

If your dog is behaving normally and not exhibiting any signs of illness, then his blood pressure is almost guaranteed to be within the normal range.

Signs of abnormal blood pressure are not specific, meaning they are signs of many diseases. Blood pressure is just one of your veterinarian’s many measurements to determine overall health and diagnose a sick pet. 

How to Manage a Dog’s Blood Pressure

The best things you can do for your pet’s overall health will also support healthy blood pressure. These include maintaining a healthy weight, exercising regularly, feeding your pet a proper diet, and developing a relationship with your veterinarian through routine healthy visits. When your veterinarian knows your dog, they can help you catch signs of illness before they become serious diseases. 

If your dog is diagnosed with hypertension, your veterinarian may recommend oral medications, dietary changes, and exercise as a way to manage your dog’s blood pressure at home.

The post Normal Dog Blood Pressure: What It Is and How to Monitor It  appeared first on Great Pet Care.

But how do you know if your dog’s dry heaving is a sign of this serious, life-threatening condition or if something else is to blame? Let’s take a closer look so you know how to act quickly if necessary. 

What is Dry Heaving in Dogs?

Dry heaving itself is not dangerous to your dog. Dry heaving is when an animal tries to vomit (heave) but nothing is produced. It may sound like a loud retch, a burp, or as if the animal can’t catch his breath. 

It looks like a dog is vomiting with abdominal effort—you can see a wave of muscle contraction that begins in the deep abdomen and progresses towards the stomach and diaphragm. 

It is more common in large, deep chested dogs including Great Danes, Rottweilers, and German Shepherds. Sometimes dogs may spit out foamy saliva when dry heaving but it is important to distinguish between that and true vomitus (expelled stomach contents). Dry heaving may occur as an episode, with multiple dry heaves that come on suddenly

Dogs who are reported to dry heave frequently, constantly, or continually over time are more likely having a different kind of episode that is not true dry heaving. Dry heaving can be easily confused with vomiting, gagging, coughing, and reverse sneezing. 

Dog Dry Heaving Vs. Vomiting 

Vomiting and dry heaving look the same except that when dogs dry heave there is no material that comes out from their mouth. Even a small amount of stomach fluid is enough to consider it vomiting. Stomach fluid may be clear to bright yellow and be foamy or not.

Dry Heaving Vs. Gagging

When gagging, dogs show no abdominal effort. Instead the effort is in the chest. Gagging may produce a small amount of foamy saliva in addition to whatever was caught in your dog’s throat. It might sound like your dog has a hairball.

Dry Heaving Vs. Coughing in Dogs

Coughing is also usually produced from a dog’s chest. However, abdominal effort may begin if the cough becomes severe. Dogs usually keep their head down when coughing. When dogs have coughing spells they may hack or have a dry retch, so it is important to pay attention to the whole episode to distinguish it from dry heaving.

Dog Dry Heaving Vs. Reverse Sneezing

Reverse sneezing is more common in small dogs. It sounds like the dog is struggling to catch his breath and there may be snorts or wheezes mixed in. It gets its name because reverse sneezing sounds like a dog is trying to inhale a sneeze. Some people express their concern that their dog keeps gagging when it is in fact reverse sneezing. Reverse sneezing is usually associated with inhaled allergens or irritants such as pollen. 

Fortunately true dry heaving in dog is rare because it is a sign of a potentially very serious condition. 

Causes of Dry Heaving in Dogs

Dry heaving occurs when a dog attempts to vomit but is unable to produce any material. Any illness that can cause vomiting in dogs can theoretically also cause dry heaving. 

This includes:

• Nausea
• Gastrointestinal discomfort
• Obstructions (for example tumors or ingested foreign material)
• Toxin ingestion
• Being over excited or over exercised
• Eating too fast

However, the most serious cause of dry heaving in dogs is Gastric Dilatation Volvulus (GDV). This is when the stomach fills with hair and then flips over on itself. It is commonly called “bloat” because the stomach is bloated with air. This bloating causes dry heaving because the dog is trying to expel air from their stomach but is unable to. 

The outflows from the stomach to both the esophagus and the intestines are cut off so the gas is trapped. The trapped air can eventually put enough pressure on large blood vessels to prevent adequate circulation and on the diagram to prevent normal breathing. 

GDV is a very painful and dangerous condition. The torsion of the stomach cuts off blood supply to some areas of the stomach as well as the spleen.

If this condition is not treated immediately it is very likely to be fatal. Delaying treatment for even several hours can lead to irreparable damage to your dog’s stomach and spleen.

Diagnosing Causes of Dry Heaving in Dogs 

If you suspect your dog is dry heaving you should call your veterinarian or an emergency veterinary clinic right away.  This will allow them to talk to you about what you are seeing and determine whether your dog needs to be evaluated as an emergency. It will also allow them to prepare for your arrival so that your dog can be stabilized immediately at the clinic. 

Dogs with reported dry heaving immediately be taken for X-rays to determine whether they have GDV. There are very characteristic changes to the shape and size of the stomach that your veterinarian will look for on those X-rays. Bloodwork will then be performed to assess the damage to metabolic function and internal organs. 

Dog Dry Heaving Treatment

If GDV is confirmed your dog will receive intravenous fluids (IV fluids) and will have their stomach decompressed using a small catheter placed directly into the stomach. Decompression is not resolution, it is just one important step to stabilizing the dog so that he has the best chance of survival. He may be given anti-nausea medication and pain control while your veterinarian discusses treatment with you. 

If GDV is confirmed to be the cause of your dog’s dry heaving, your veterinarian will discuss emergency surgery with you. The cost of this surgery is in the $2,500-$4,500 range depending on where you live and other factors relating to your dog.  

If the dog was found not to have GDV then dry heaving will likely be initially treated with anti-nausea medication and fluid supplementation. Additional treatment will depend on the specific cause of your dog’s dry heaving and how ill the dog is overall. Determining the specific cause may require diagnostic testing including bloodwork, urinalysis, x-rays, and abdominal ultrasound. 

Whether your dog is diagnosed with GDV or requires additional treatment for something else, you may feel emotionally and financially overwhelmed. Having a pet health insurance policy can safeguard you in these situations. Your dog can get the necessary tests, treatment, and surgery if needed with a customized policy from Spot Pet Insurance. 

If the cause of your dog’s dry heaving is an obstruction then the treatment may be surgical. Removal of foreign material can be done on an emergency basis however addressing an obstruction caused by a tumor requires additional diagnostic testing and treatment planning. 

For other causes of dry heaving, medical therapy may be sufficient. Hospitalization may be recommended depending on the dog’s other symptoms and the severity of his illness.

How to Prevent Dry Heaving in Dogs

Not all causes of dry heaving are preventable just as not all causes of vomiting are preventable. However there are important steps you can take to reduce the risk of your dog developing GDV. Taking these steps does not fully eliminate the risk of GDV but can greatly reduce the risk.

Slow your dog’s eating. A cause of dry heaving or retching that can be prevented is eating too quickly. Slowing your dog down can be accomplished in many ways. An easy way is to feed in a slow feeder or puzzle bowl. These come in a variety of styles and levels of difficulty and are available at most pet stores both in-person and online. You can also split your dog’s food into multiple meals instead of one feeding. 

Keep your dog calm after eating. Do not allow your dog to vigorously exercise for at least 60 minutes (1 hour) after eating. 

Consider preventative surgery. A prophylactic surgical procedure called a gastropexy may be appropriate for your dog if he is at high risk for GDV due to his breed, body shape, or lifestyle. In this procedure a veterinarian will suture the lower part of the stomach in place so that it is not mobile enough to flip on itself. While this may not prevent all cases of GDV, studies do indicate that it greatly reduces occurrence in high-risk dogs. Gastropexy can be performed by your primary veterinarian

Dry heaving in dogs is a sign of a life threatening condition in dogs and therefore should always be taken seriously. Call a veterinarian immediately if your dog is dry heaving.

The post Dog Dry Heaving: Causes and Treatment appeared first on Great Pet Care.

But do dogs get headaches, too? The truth is, it can be very difficult to determine whether a dog is experiencing a headache and if so, whether they are experiencing it in the same way a human does.

Do Dogs Get Headaches? 

While there are few published studies about headaches in dogs, veterinarians widely believe that dogs do in fact experience headaches. 

In human medicine headaches are divided into two broad categories—primary and secondary. Primary headaches are those where the headache defines the condition such as migraines. Secondary headaches are due to some other problem such as dehydration or head trauma. It is these secondary headaches that are believed to be similar between people and dogs. Since all mammals share similar physiology it can be assumed that problems that cause headaches in people would likely cause headaches in dogs.

The evidence of a shared headache experience comes from the way dogs behave when they are ill or in pain. Both humans and dogs who are dehydrated are lethargic, their eyes are glassy and eyelids not fully open, and they just want to lay in a quiet dark place and rest.

Can Dogs Get Migraines?

As to whether dogs can suffer from primary headaches such as migraines, there is less of a consensus. There is a single published case report of a dog with “migraine-like episodic pain” who responded well to medications used to treat migraines in humans. 

It is possible that other dogs have experienced similar symptoms but were either untreated or unreported. However, before concluding that a dog experiences migraine-like episodes, all other possible causes of neurologic abnormalities need to be ruled out such as brain tumors, seizures, and congenital defects. Interestingly, some dogs can be trained to detect an impending migraine in their human companions.

Causes of Headaches in Dogs

Causes of secondary headaches in dogs are similar to those described in humans. These include:

• Dehydration
• Allergies
• Sinus infection
• Ear infection
• Tooth pain or infection
• Head trauma
• Medications
• Seizures
• Brain tumors
• High blood pressure
• Second hand smoke

Dehydration in dogs can be caused by many things such as diarrhea, vomiting, not eating and drinking, intense exercise, or heat exposure. As far as medications, every animal can respond to medication differently so it is important to monitor your dog for symptoms of headaches after starting or stopping a medication. 

In humans some types of severe head trauma can cause chronic headaches. It is not known whether the same is true for dogs. Dogs have a much thicker skull with more muscle surrounding it, so a dog’s brain may not be as vulnerable to chronic injury from trauma. 

Some congenital abnormalities may cause chronic or recurrent headaches in dogs including abnormalities within the brain, blood vessels, nerves, and spine. 

Symptoms of Headaches in Dogs

Dogs and humans share many of the same signs of a headache. However, these symptoms are vague and not specific to just a headache. Most of the symptoms of a headache alert you that your dog is not feeling well without specifically diagnosing a headache. 

Symptoms of headaches in dogs may include:

• Seeking out dark places
• Seeking out quiet places
• Seeking out cold places
• Not wanting to interact (not wanting to play or be pet)
• Sleeping more than usual
• Decreased appetite
• Head kept low to the ground
• Glassy eyes, eyelids not fully open
• Weakness or walking with difficulty
• Head tilt or walking in circles

Occasionally dogs may become irritable or aggressive due to a headache. However, more often dogs experience headaches as one of many signs of illness and they are more likely to hide than to bite.

What to Do if Your Dog Has a Headache

If you suspect your dog has a headache the first thing to consider is whether she has recently experienced any of the causes of secondary headaches such as diarrhea, trauma, or allergies. If she has, then make an appointment with your veterinarian to have the primary problem addressed as soon as possible.

In the meantime, make sure your dog is drinking plenty of water. Some dogs will drink more water if there are ice cubes in it while others would prefer diluted no-salt broth added to their water bowl. It is important that the broth be no-salt or very low in salt because salt contributes to dehydration which in turn worsens a headache. 

NEVER give your dog human headache medication. Many of the over-the-counter medicines used to treat human headaches are toxic to dogs. If you have any dog-specific medications at home, you can ask your veterinarian whether it is appropriate to give them when you call to make an appointment.

Allow your dog to rest in a cool, quiet, dark area where she is comfortable. Allow her to rest undisturbed. When you do check on her try to be quiet and move slowly so she is not startled. 

If your dog’s signs of a headache last more than 24 hours or are accompanied by other signs of illness such as vomiting or inability to walk normally she should be seen by a veterinarian urgently. This could be a sign of a more serious illness.

The post Do Dogs Get Headaches? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

But there’s no need to panic, because preparation is key. Keep reading to find out when to take your new puppy to the vet, what to expect from the visit, questions to ask, and checklists to help make your puppy’s first veterinary visit a success. 

When Do Puppies Need to Go to the Vet?

Puppies should see a veterinarian as soon as possible—even if they just had an exam with the breeder or shelter. Ideally that would be before you even get your puppy home, especially if you have other pets. Even healthy looking puppies can carry diseases that can easily be passed to a new family, but your veterinarian can start treatment immediately. 

If it’s not possible or feasible to get your puppy to the vet the day you get her, your puppy’s first vet visit should be scheduled within the first few days of taking her home. 

After the first visit, your puppy will see the vet several times over the next few months. Vaccines are administered every 2-4 weeks until your puppy is at least 16 weeks old or they have had 2-3 doses of vaccines against the common infectious diseases. The exact timing and number of doses will depend on your puppy’s breed and her expected lifestyle.

Pre-Visit: How to Prepare in Advance

There are a few things you can do to prepare for your puppy’s first vet visit ahead of time. 

Find a Veterinarian

If you don’t already have a veterinarian, the first step is to select one. Often friends and neighbors will have a veterinarian they trust for their own pets. You can also look at Google, Facebook, and Yelp reviews or find a veterinarian certified as Fear Free. If evening or weekend appointments are important to you, consider a clinic’s business hours when choosing a vet. 

Gather Paperwork and Medical Records

Once you schedule the appointment be sure to gather all the paperwork and other information you have about your puppy so you can share it with your veterinary team. If possible, request previous medical records from any veterinarian who has seen your puppy in the past. Write down or take a picture of the food label and treats your puppy eats, so you can share that information with your vet.

Pull Together Questions

To best take advantage of your time with your veterinary team, bring a list of questions. While questions should be specific to your puppy and any of your concerns, we’ve prepared some questions to consider below. 

Prep Your Pup’s Food for Exam Day

On the day of the appointment don’t feed your puppy for several hours before the exam. Instead, bring her food and favorite snacks with you. This way your veterinary team can use the food during the exam to reduce stress and encourage cooperation. 

Pick Up a Poop Sample if Possible

If your puppy poops within a few hours of your appointment time, bring the sample for your veterinarian to test.

What to Expect from Your Puppy’s First Vet Visit

Your puppy’s first vet visit can feel overwhelming. Fortunately your veterinary team is there to support you and offer recommendations based on their experience, education, and current guidelines for the highest level of care. 

Here’s what you can expect from the first visit.

Intake and Your Puppy’s History

A veterinary assistant or veterinary technician will likely be the first person you meet. He or she will ask you questions about your puppy’s history. Answer as much as you can but don’t be afraid to say that you don’t know. Bring any medical and vaccination records you have from the breeder, shelter, or rescue group.

Vital Signs and Basic Testing

The veterinary assistant will then take your puppy’s vital signs (heart rate, breathing rate, and temperature) and will likely collect a fecal sample for parasite testing. At some clinics it is the assistant or technician who talks to you about vaccines, parasite testing, heartworm prevention, and flea and tick control. In other clinics the veterinarian will discuss these important topics.

Physical Exam and Vaccines

Next, the veterinarian will go over the history you provided and perform a complete physical exam on your puppy. The physical exam includes examining the eyes, ears, nose, and mouth, listening to the heart and lungs, palpating the abdomen, and checking for normal movement of the joints. Your veterinarian will also check for birth defects and provide an initial overall assessment of your new pet’s health. He or she will then administer vaccines that you elect for your puppy. 

Discussion 

After the exam and vaccines, your vet will discuss important milestones for the puppy, including potty training, spay or neuter, and behavior training. This is the time for you to ask any questions you may have (see our suggested list below) or address any concerns.

Payment

Your puppy’s first vet visit is likely to last one hour or more and cost between $100 and $200, though costs can vary depending on geographic location, selected vaccines, suggested medications, and other treatments. Each vaccine booster visit is likely to cost $75 to $150. Heartworm prevention as well as flea and tick control will be prescribed as single doses until your puppy nears her adult size.

Questions to Ask At Your New Puppy Vet Visit

Preparing a list of questions to ask your veterinarian ahead of time will help you make the most out of your puppy’s first vet visit. Here are some suggestions for discussions based on common puppy topics.

Food

• What should my puppy eat? 
• How many times a day should she eat?
• When do puppies switch to adult dog food?

Socialization, Behavior, and Training

• When can my puppy go to the pet store/dog park/groomer?
• Do you recommend crate training? 
• How long can she stay in her crate?
• How do you potty train a puppy?
• How much exercise does my puppy need?
• How do I socialize my puppy?
• Do you recommend any local trainers or puppy classes?

General Health & Safety

• How often does my puppy need to come to the vet?
• Why do I need to vaccinate my puppy?
• When should I spay or neuter my puppy?
• Should I microchip my dog?
• How many times a day should my puppy poop?
• Are there any health concerns specific to my puppy’s breed(s)?
• Does my puppy need flea and tick prevention?
• What is heartworm disease and why is prevention important?
• Should I buy pet insurance?

Post-Visit: Reminders for New Pet Parents

As you take your new puppy home to get settled in, keep the conversations with your veterinarian going. Just because you’ve left the clinic doesn’t mean you can’t have your questions answered and concerns addressed. 

You can call or email your veterinarian anytime. Usually you will have to leave a message but your veterinarian or a knowledgeable team member will call back to answer your questions.

Start to enact the plan your veterinarian made for you. Whether that is crate training, potty training methods, or feeding styles, start to incorporate them into your puppy’s day. 

Put your puppy’s next appointment time in your calendar as well as a recurring reminder to give your puppy her flea and tick and heartworm prevention on the same day every month.

Most importantly, enjoy time with your new puppy as you get to know each other!

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However, there is a happy herb for canines too. It’s called anise (or aniseed), also known as “dog nip,” and when given in moderation, it can have a stimulating effect on dogs. Anise, mixed in homemade treats, can be used during training sessions to get dogs psyched and motivated to learn. 

What is Anise?

Anise is a seed from the Pimpinella anisum plant, with a distinct, black licorice-like taste and a strong scent. The plant is native to Egypt and the eastern Mediterranean region. The fruit seeds are used as a spice, in both ground and whole forms, in baked goods, herbal teas, and liquors. 

The anise plant belongs to the aromatic flowering plants in the Apiaceae family, which produce other spices and herbs in your pantry, such as dill, cumin, fennel, parsley, and coriander. Although anise and licorice are often lumped together due to similar fragrance and taste, they are very different. While anise is a seed, licorice is a root from the legume family. Anise and Star anise (Illicium verum) share part of a name, but the latter is a fruit from a small evergreen tree in the magnolia family with a more intense aroma and is often used in Chinese all-spice blend. 

According to Dr. Corinne Wigfall, veterinarian and spokesperson of SpiritDog Training, anise makes dogs excited and playful, and “it has several uses, including being used to train scent dogs, as a stimulating treat or reward, and as a natural remedy.” 

How Does Anise for Dogs Work?

Smelling anise makes dogs giddy and playful. For this reason, it’s often referred to as dog nip. 

Wigfall says that not all dogs are affected the same way, but those that are affected show a noticeable effect. You may notice your dog is more active, running around the house or the backyard, jumping, or hyper.  

“Dogs need to smell the anise to be able to feel the effects,” Wigfall says. The best way to get your dog excited about this safe and natural ingredient, she recommends, is by grinding up the seeds and letting the dog sniff them or putting a very small amount as garnish on top of their food. It takes around 15-20 minutes to work and the energy boost can last between 1 to 3 hours. “It’s not recommended as a nighttime treat!”  

Competitions such as agility may prohibit the use of anise for dogs so be sure to check the rulebook before using it as a performance aid.

How to Use Anise for Dogs

Anise can be used as whole seeds, as a powder, or an extract added to treats. Wigfall suggests adding a dusting of powder to toys and food or dropping it onto collars, harnesses, or bedding to introduce the smell. 

Anise also comes in essential oil form, but Wigfall warns against using it, as the oil is “more potent than the extract and should never be used directly on its own.” Even a few drops are enough to produce toxicity effects when ingested and could lead to vomiting and diarrhea.     .  

Anise Side Effects in Dogs

Similar to how we sprinkle spices in our food, anise should be used in very small amounts when it comes to dogs. As it has the tendency to cause dogs to focus and get motivated, it’s best to reserve anise as a training tool or for special occasions. If your dog tolerates it, anise can be used intermittently in low quantities, long-term.  

According to Wigfall, consuming large quantities can cause gastrointestinal upset in dogs, resulting in vomiting and diarrhea. Wigfall says, “large amounts could also cause bradycardia (low heart rate), decreased respiration rate, unconsciousness and, in severe cases, coma or death.” 

If your dog consumed anise in excess, seek veterinary advice immediately. If your dog is allergic to anise, it will manifest in itchiness, skin redness, rash, or hives.

If your pet ingested or is exposed to a large amount of anise, keep a look out for the following signs: 

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Inappetence
• Lethargy
• Collapse
• Lowered breathing rate 
• Change in demeanor or unresponsiveness

Anise should be avoided in dogs who suffer from anxiety and related disorders. It should also be avoided in dogs with very sensitive gastrointestinal systems and those with kidney or liver problems. 

Anise should only be given under direct supervision.

Anise Dosage for Dogs

Dosing is specific to each dog, says Wigfall. “It’s like people and wine, some need just a glass to feel tipsy, others a bottle. Each dog is individual so you have to test the dose with your dog and gradually work upwards until you see an effect.” Consult your veterinarian before providing anise to your dog to determine a safe dosage.

For pet parents wanting to give anise as more than an occasional treat, or for giving the dog more energy, Wigfall suggests consulting with the veterinarian to address the underlying reason for the lethargy or for recommendations for alternative supplements or training that can address the issue. 

Anise should not be used to treat symptoms of a specific disease without direct recommendation by a veterinarian.  

Where to Buy Anise for Dogs

Dognip hasn’t caught on like catnip, so it’s not widely available in toys or treats. Anise used for human consumption is the same in pet treats, so it can be bought at the grocery store. Add a small amount in your homemade treats or pet food occasionally, whenever you need extra focus from your dog, like for long training sessions. If you do find anise products in stores, Wigfall recommends checking the ingredients to ensure that they don’t have harmful additions like xylitol or essential oils.  

The post Dog Nip: What to Know About Anise for Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Let’s take a closer look at what causes this syndrome in cats, signs to watch for, and how to treat it.

What is Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome?

“Hyperesthesia” means an increase in sensitivity. When a stimulus that does not normally cause pain is perceived as painful, this is referred to as “allodynia.” This term may more precisely describe Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome.

FHS is also known by many other descriptive terms: rolling skin disease, rolling skin syndrome, apparent neuritis, atypical neurodermatitis, psychomotor epilepsy, and twitchy cat disease. No matter the name, it describes episodes in which a cat obsessively licks, scratches, or chews at herself. Sometimes this is in response to a person or another animal touching the cat. In more severely affected cats, these episodes can occur spontaneously.  

FHS in cats can emerge anytime during adulthood but most often appears between the time of physical maturity and 1 year of age. 

Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome Causes

The cause of FHS in cats is not well understood. Some veterinary researchers speculate it is a behavioral disorder along the lines of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD) that leads to excessive grooming. Others suggest it is related to seizure disorders or due to injury. The true cause is likely multifactorial, meaning cats have multiple risk factors before becoming clinically affected by the syndrome. Part of the confusion is due to the variability in response to treatments. Some cats respond best to anxiety medications, while others respond better to pain and seizure control medication. Other cats may require both types of medication.

Certain breeds, such as Abyssinian, Burmese, Persian, and Himalayan cats, are at higher risk for developing FHS. This means there is likely at least some heritable genetic component to the syndrome. 

Signs of Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome

Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome occurs in short episodes and usually involves the area right in front of a cat’s tail (lumbar spine). These episodes may last only 1 to 2 minutes. During an episode, signs of FHS in cats may include:

• Excessive grooming, especially of the lower back
• Skin along the back rippling or rolling
• Tail chasing
• Vocalization
• Salivation
• Dilated pupils
• Aggression

Cats may attack their own tails or lower back, or they may take out their aggression on nearby people or animals.

Episodes of FHS are transient, meaning the cat can be normal and feel comfortable most of the time and then suddenly have a moment of pain. This is especially noticeable if you are petting or playing with your cat when the episode occurs. The frequency of episodes varies, as does the severity of hyperesthesia. Episodes can occur rarely (once a month) or very frequently (multiple times per day).

Diagnosing Hyperesthesia Syndrome in Cats

There is no single test for FHS. To diagnose Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome, your veterinarian will need to rule out other possible causes of your cat’s symptoms first. Skin irritation, such as from fleas, skin allergies, dry skin, or skin infection, can cause similar signs in cats. Spinal problems, such as arthritis, injury, disc herniation, and cancer, can also present as similar episodes of pain. 

In addition to a thorough physical exam, your veterinarian will conduct complete orthopedic and neurological exams to diagnose FHS in cats. Your veterinarian may also recommend diagnostic testing, such as:

Blood work and urinalysis. These will be used to evaluate your cat for a metabolic or endocrine cause of symptoms.

Radiographs. X-rays of your cat’s spine and tail will help determine whether there is a specific cause of the episodes. 

MRI. An MRI (magnetic resonance image) enables a veterinarian to evaluate the physical health of the muscles and ligaments around your cat’s spine, spinal cord, and close details of the vertebral bones of the spine. This is the gold standard of evaluation for FHS. 

Depending on the presentation of your cat’s symptoms, a consultation with a veterinary behaviorist may be helpful as well. 

How to Treat Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome

There is no cure for FHS in cats. If episodes can be avoided by not touching your cat in a particular location on her body, avoidance of the area is a more appropriate treatment than medicine. Similarly, if the cat’s symptoms are mild and she only grooms intently for a short moment, no medication is needed. However, if episodes of Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome cause your cat to potentially hurt herself or others, then medication is required. 

The first part of treatment of FHS is behavioral and environmental modification. This is aimed at reducing stress, anxiety, and triggers your cat has for FHS. Supplements such as coenzymes, omega-3 fatty acids, and a prescription skin support diet may also reduce the frequency and severity of FHS in cats.

For mild to moderate cases of FHS in cats, a medication called gabapentin can be very helpful in reducing the severity and/or frequency of episodes. Gabapentin reduces nerve pain and can also be helpful in reducing seizures, which may be related to FHS. Gabapentin is also useful to reduce stress in cats. For some cats, FHS is better managed with anti-anxiety medication, such as fluoxetine (Prozac) or Clomipramine. Gabapentin and fluoxetine both cost approximately $10-$30/month. 

Cats with severe FHS may require multiple medications as well as periodic epidural injections (injections into the spinal column) with pain medication and steroids, costing about $100 each. 

While the prognosis for FHS in cats is generally good and the syndrome can be well-managed with medication, some cats who suffer from severe cases may self-mutilate, or injure themselves, worsening pain and causing infection. Some may also become very aggressive, especially when another animal or a person touches them. These are indicators of a poor prognosis due to poor welfare for the cat. 

How to Prevent Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome

FHS in cats cannot be prevented. You can reduce the frequency or severity of episodes by reducing your cat’s anxiety and stress. Some important considerations are effective flea control (to reduce itching), regular brushing and grooming to keep your cat’s coat healthy, and stopping interacting with your cat if she shows any signs of stress.

Since there may be a strong behavioral component to FHS, providing a safe, comfortable home with plenty of regular exercise and interaction may reduce your cat’s risk.

Related Conditions

• Seizures
• Obsessive compulsive disorder
• Anxiety
• Over-grooming

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If your cat is itchy and has diarrhea or other unpleasant gastrointestinal symptoms, a dietary problem could be to blame. Let’s explore whether certain foods can cause allergies in cats and if so, how you can help provide relief for your pet.

Can Cats Have Allergies to Food?

Yes, cats can be allergic to ingredients in their food. However, these food allergies are actually rare in cats. They are much more likely to have allergies to things in their environment, such as mold and grasses. When cats do have food allergies, they are typically directed at a specific protein source. Chicken is the most common food allergen in cats, but they can also be allergic to beef, turkey, egg, soy, or milk, as well as less common meat sources such as venison or duck. 

Cats are very unlikely to be allergic to grains or gluten. In fact, although cats are carnivores, grain-free or gluten-free foods are no more healthy for them than foods with grains and gluten. Most cat foods contain carbohydrates, such as wheat, corn, or potato, because they are an important source of vitamins and minerals. The total amount of carbohydrates in the food is a much more useful metric of healthfulness than whether it is grain-free. This is because foods higher in total carbohydrate content are associated with weight gain in cats.

What Causes Cat Food Allergies?

We don’t really know why food allergies exist. But we do know what happens in the body when a cat has allergies. Allergies occur when the immune system mistakenly identifies a protein from a food as a cause for alarm instead of a benign source of nutrition. This causes the cat’s body to mount an immune response, attacking the “invader.” Immune responses cause inflammation, and it is this inflammation that we see as allergy symptoms, such as itching (inflammation of the skin) and diarrhea (inflammation of the intestines).

Cat food allergies usually emerge in young cats but they can develop at any time in a cat’s life. Allergies may also get worse over time. Neither sex nor breed are specific risk factors, although there is early evidence that Siamese cats and their cross-breeds may have increased risk (1). About 25 percent of cats who have a food allergy also have an environmental or flea allergy (2).

Cat Food Allergy Symptoms

Unfortunately, cat food allergy symptoms are common to many other conditions and can vary widely between cats.

When humans have allergies to something in the environment, such as grass or pollen, they may cough and sneeze. While cats with environmental allergies can have respiratory signs, they frequently will lick their feet and bellies. Cats with environmental allergies may also develop ear infections. Some veterinarians also believe that feline acne is also associated with allergies. Feline acne occurs on the chin and has various appearances, from black dirt to zits to swelling of the whole chin area. 

To make things complicated, cat food allergies can also cause excessive licking and ear infections just like environmental allergies. But typically, food allergic cats will also have gastrointestinal signs, such as vomiting, diarrhea, or decreased appetite. Unfortunately, there is no specific set of cat food allergy symptoms. The gastrointestinal signs of cat food allergies are common to many other ailments in cats, including most types of gastrointestinal disease (parasites, inflammatory bowel disease, cancer, etc.), pancreatitis, liver disease, kidney disease, thyroid disease, and others. Although many people think it is normal for cats to vomit occasionally, in fact this could be the first sign that your cat has an allergy or other problem. Therefore, if you notice any of these signs, it is important to have your cat examined by a veterinarian. 

Signs of food allergies in cats can include:

• Licking feet, face, or abdomen
• Vomiting
• Loose stool or diarrhea
• Decreased appetite
• Weight loss
• Ear infection
• Excessive gas
• Miliary dermatitis (crusty bumps all over the cat’s body)
• Breathing problems (rare)

Diagnosing Cat Food Allergies

The best way to diagnose a food allergy in a cat is through an elimination diet trial. The idea is that if you can completely exclude the source of allergen from your pet’s environment, then the symptoms should resolve. 

Importantly, since the signs of food allergy are common to other diseases in cats, your veterinarian is likely to start with testing for and treating other more common causes of your cat’s symptoms. These include various causes of gastrointestinal inflammation, flea allergy, and environmental allergy. Once these causes of your cat’s symptoms are excluded, then it is time to start a diet trial. While any veterinarian can conduct a food trial, veterinary dermatologists are specialists who focus on skin and allergies and are often the best resources for diagnosing and treating allergic disease.

Although it sounds simple, an elimination diet trial is difficult to do properly. First, your veterinarian will select a novel protein or hydrolyzed food. Hydrolyzed means that the protein source in the food has been broken down into short chains of amino acids. (Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. Proteins can be thousands of amino acids long.) These short chains are not recognized by the body as containing an allergen. For some cats, a novel protein diet is also an appropriate choice for an elimination diet. Novel proteins are those your cat has never been exposed to, such as venison, rabbit, or kangaroo. However, some foods may cross-react, such as chicken and turkey or beef and bison, and therefore diets with similar proteins may not be appropriate as novel diets.

Selection of the food is the easy part. The hard part is remembering to not give your cat any treats, snacks, medications, or supplements that contain anything edible other than the elimination diet. This means other cats in the house will need to be fed separately or else everyone needs to be on the same elimination diet. If you accidentally allow your cat to eat anything other than the prescribed diet, you have to start the whole trial timeline over again.  

Diet trials last from 4-12 weeks. Every 2-4 weeks, your cat will be evaluated by your veterinarian and you will discuss how she is doing. It is important for you to keep a record of her symptoms at home. The reason that diet trials have a broad timeline is that some cats respond to their elimination diet quickly, while for others it takes more time. An elimination diet trial is not considered over until your cat improves OR at least 12 weeks have passed without improvement. If a cat responds, gastrointestinal signs will usually improve before skin signs. This is because cells turn over more quickly in the GI tract than they do in the skin.

According to recent research, “alternative tests of blood, serum, saliva and hair have been found to be unsatisfactory” in the diagnosis of food allergy in cats (3).

How to Treat Cat Food Allergies

The best treatment for cat food allergies is to eliminate the allergen from your cat’s environment completely. This means that none of the ingredients in your cat’s food can come from the source of your animal’s allergy. These are usually called “limited ingredient” or “novel protein” diets. 

But more than just looking at primary ingredients, an allergen-free diet means there should be no risk of contamination with the allergen. It is similar to how some human foods that don’t contain peanuts are made in facilities that also process peanuts, so are not safe for those with peanut allergies. Human food is required to state any possible allergen contamination on the box, but there is no such requirement for cat food. In fact, very few pet food companies can guarantee no contamination. It is expensive to completely shut down machinery and deep clean it between making different foods, and most food companies are not designing food to be truly therapeutic. The few companies that do make this guarantee for their limited-ingredient diets include Royal Canin, Hill’s, and Purina. These guaranteed diets are usually the prescription diets, so they can specifically be labeled as a therapy or treatment for your cat’s disease (allergies). If you want to use a different brand of food for your cat’s allergen-free food, talk to your veterinarian.

In addition to allergen-free food, all treats, dental chews, medications, and toys should be allergen-free. It is okay for you to eat the food your cat is allergic to, as long as you don’t give her table scraps or let her lick the dishes.

Medication is unlikely to be required for food allergies in cats as long as your cat is maintained on an allergen-free diet. However, if a flare-up of symptoms happens, then your veterinarian may prescribe a short course of medication to get her feeling better faster.

Food allergy is just one of the many causes of your cat’s itchy skin or GI discomfort, and in fact one of the less common ones. Therefore, it is important to have your cat seen by your veterinarian before you change her diet or try to do an elimination diet on your own. 

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Cat Age Stages

Indoor only cats live an average of 12-15 years. Those who have outdoor access or live fully outdoors have shorter average lifespans of just 2-7 years due to higher risk of disease, injury, predation, and vehicular trauma. 

At different times in their lives cats require different care, from food and nutrition to exercise and play, even frequency of veterinary visits. Cat life stages can be broken into six categories:

Neonate (Newborn) Kitten

Until 4-6 weeks of age, kittens are highly dependent on their mom for almost all of their needs. Somewhere around 4 weeks is where kittens usually start to be weaned. During this phase, the mom cat should be fed kitten food. 

Kitten

Once a kitten starts to eat food and use a litter box, they enter the kitten stage. They are considered kittens until about 12 months of age. Kittens require several rounds of vaccines until they are at least 16 weeks old. They should be fed kitten food for the first 12 months of life. Kitten food is specially formulated to support healthy growth and development. Kittens require lots of play time and interaction. 

Young Adult Cat

From 1-4 years of age, cats are in the young adult stage of life. This is their prime. They are active and energetic and maintain many of their kitten qualities but with fewer destructive tendencies. 

Mature Adult Cat

Cats are considered mature adults by age 4 until they are about 10 years old. Weight management is likely to become important in this stage of life, as cats’ activity level decreases. Mature adult cats should have blood work evaluated annually along with their yearly physical exam and any appropriate vaccines. 

Senior Cat

Ages 10-15 are the senior years for a cat. At this point in their lives, cats should be fed a senior diet and begin to see their veterinarian every six months for check-ups. Blood pressure and urine tests should be added to their annual blood work. Senior cats may require special consideration at home, such as heated bedding in the winter and low-sided litter boxes.

Geriatric Cat

Cats who live longer than 15 years arrive at the geriatric stage of their life. Geriatric cats tend to move slowly and sleep most of the day. They may need help grooming.

How Old Is My Cat in Human Years?

Cats age at different rates at different stages of life. In their early years, cats age fast. The first 6 months of a cat’s life is equivalent to about 10 human years. By 1 year of age, your cat is now a human teenager and by 2 years, cats are about 24 years old in human years.

After 2 years of age, each year of a cat’s life is equivalent to about 4 human years. This cat age calculator is a helpful guide to determining your cat’s age in human years.

How Old Is My Cat? 7 Ways to Tell

Here are seven clues to look at to help determine your cat’s age:

Weight

Until about 5 months old, a cat’s age can be estimated by his or her weight. Kittens gain about 1 pound per month, so their weight is equivalent to their age in months. For example, a 4-pound cat would be around 4 months old.

Adult Teeth

A cat’s teeth can provide valuable hints about their true age. Kittens begin to grow in their adult teeth at 3 months of age, their adult canines erupt at 6 months, and they have all of their adult teeth by 8 months.

Teeth Staining, Plaque, and Tartar

Cats typically begin to develop staining of their teeth by 2 to 3 years of age. Even cats with very healthy, clean teeth will have a stain line down the middle of their canines by 3 years of age. The more staining to other teeth, the older the cat. 

As cats age, they develop plaque and tartar usually starting with the large upper premolars in the very back of their mouth. By around 2 to 3 years of age, you will notice some tartar that increases over time. Older cats tend to have more tartar unless they have their teeth cleaned by a veterinarian. Gingivitis (gum disease) is not a useful proxy for age because some cats have severe gingivitis from a very young age.

Your veterinarian can also evaluate something called pulp/tooth ratio on dental X-rays to estimate your cat’s age. It is a measure of the width of the pulp cavity (where the nerve and blood vessel of the tooth are) relative to the width of the canine tooth (fang). This ratio decreases with age.  

Eye Changes

There are several changes in the eyes that occur as cats reach their senior years that can be helpful in estimating age. Lenticular sclerosis (nuclear sclerosis) is a normal aging change. The lens of the eye begins to have a blueish, hazy appearance detectable around 10 years of age.

Iris atrophy is also a normal aging change in cats found in many seniors over 10 years old. If you look closely at the inner edge of a senior cat’s iris (the colored part), you may notice that the edge is not completely smooth but rather has a slightly feathered appearance. Iris atrophy does not affect your cat’s vision but may make her more sensitive to bright light, as she cannot constrict her pupil as much anymore.

Coat Color

Just as humans go gray and dogs develop gray muzzles, the skin and coat can give hints about a cat’s age. Cats don’t develop gray muzzles the way dogs do, but their vibrant colors may fade some with age. This is especially true for very dark colors. Cats who go outside may develop changes to their coat color at young ages due to sun damage. True changes in coat color and not just gradual fading may indicate a hormonal problem and should be addressed by a veterinarian. 

Skin and Coat Health 

Senior and geriatric cats may no longer groom themselves well and their fur may become dull, greasy, or matted. Importantly, overweight cats may not be able to reach all the parts of their body to clean so they may develop the appearance of a geriatric cat earlier in life. In addition, geriatric cats tend to have very thin papery skin, similar to geriatric humans. 

Movement

Cats are very agile through at least their mature adult stage. After that, you may notice your cat is less likely to jump onto the highest counters or accomplish the acrobatic feats of their youth. Senior and geriatric cats may even have difficulty stepping over high-edged litter boxes and may be slow to rise in the morning, which could indicate arthritis. 

Cat Age and Health

Unless you know when your cat was born, even the most educated guess is still just an estimate. But, health is more important than chronologic age, so the more steps you take to keep your cat healthy, the more good years she will have. 

Never assume a change in your cat is “just old age.” Veterinarians have a saying that “age is not a disease.” Just because your cat is getting older doesn’t mean she should have to feel anything less than her best. If you notice a change, it is worth having your veterinarian examine your cat. There may be simple solutions or management strategies so that your cat can enjoy her golden years, whatever her true age. 

The post How Old Is My Cat? 7 Ways to Tell appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Dog shaking is common and there are myriad causes and ways to tame the trembling. So, if you’re wondering why your dog shakes and how to help, let’s dig in.  

Dog Shaking: Some Common Causes

There is no single reason dogs might shake, tremble or twitch, according to Dr. Jami-Lyn Derse, veterinarian and founder of Veterinary Housecall Care. Commonly, dog shaking is related to: 

• Fear
• Anxiety
• Excitement
• Medical conditions
• Exposure to toxic substances
• Pain
• Dreaming

“You can’t just look at a dog shaking and know the reason,” Derse says. “You have to look at the whole clinical picture.”

Derse advises pet parents to play detective. Does your dog only shake in his sleep? Is he shaking his leg or does his whole body tremble? What situations seem to trigger shaking or make it worse? Paying attention to the specifics allows you to provide valuable information to your vet that can help with a diagnosis.

Why Does My Dog Shake in His Sleep?

It’s common for dogs to move and shake in their sleep while they are dreaming. Your dog might be conjuring up chasing a squirrel, running free through the woods, or jumping up on the table to snatch a tasty treat. The vivid dreams may cause your Labrador’s legs to twitch or your Boxer’s entire body to shake. As long as your dog is only shaking in his sleep, Derse believes the movements can be chalked up to happy dreams.

Why Does My Dog Shake His Head?

Ear infections are among the most common reasons dogs shake their heads. In addition to frequent head shaking, Derse suggests looking for symptoms like odor, discharge, excessive scratching, hair loss around the ears and not wanting to be touched on the ears.

Bacterial and yeast infections can affect any breed but floppy-eared breeds like Cocker Spaniels, Golden Retrievers, Brittany Spaniels and West Highland Terriers are more prone to getting ear infections.

If your dog is shaking his head and you notice other symptoms like odor, scratching or discharge, make an appointment with your veterinarian to get your dog’s ears checked. 

Why Does My Dog’s Leg Shake?

If your dog’s legs shake or he struggles to walk, pain could be the culprit. “Pain is one of the biggest reasons dogs shake. The pain causes them to tense up and holding all of that tension causes them to shake,” Derse says. “Many owners don’t realize that shaking is one of the clinical signs of pain.”

Pain that causes shaking legs could be due to anything from osteoarthritis to injuries. It may be accompanied by other symptoms such as whining or whimpering, growling or snapping, panting and shaking or lack of appetite. 

If you suspect your dog’s legs are shaking due to pain, make an appointment with your veterinarian.

Why Does My Dog Shake in the Car?

Some dogs love to ride in cars, sticking their heads out the window to feel the cool air whipping through their fur, while others spend the entire ride trembling in the backseat. If your normally easygoing pup turns into a shaking mess in the car, Derse notes that anxiety could be to blame.

Excitement could also cause your dog to shake in the car, especially if he associates car rides with trips to his favorite places like the dog park, hiking trails, or the beach. 

“Some dogs get so excited that they can’t contain it and they start shaking,” Derse says.

If your dog is shaking in the car due to stress or anxiety, there are calming aids that can help including calming vests or supplements. 

Why Does My Dog Shake When I Pet Him?

Touch and petting can elicit both a fear or pleasure response in dogs. Look for other clues and body language to determine whether your dog is shaking from excitement or fear. Does he tuck his tail and try to hide when you attempt to pet him or wag his tail, put his front paws in your lap and nudge you with his nose to beg for more?

Understanding behavioral cues can help you understand your dog’s response. If it’s fear-based, working with a veterinarian, trainer, or behaviorist can help create a positive association with being petted.

Do Dogs Shiver When It’s Cold?

A dog shivering is rarely due to feeling cold. “Pet owners see their dog shaking, assume it’s cold, and put a sweater or blanket on them,” Derse says. “It rarely happens that dogs shake because they’re cold.”

However, it is possible. Dogs may shiver when their body temperature is low. A Chihuahua left outdoors in sub-zero temperatures will start to shiver but a Saint Bernard might not have the same response. Look for other signs such as whining or whimpering, clamoring to get indoors or raising their paws off the ground to keep from touching cold pavement to determine if frigid temps are causing your dog to tremble.

Medical Causes of Dog Shaking

There are certain medical reasons dogs shake, including: 

Distemper

Distemper is a contagious virus that attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal and nervous systems. Distemper is more common in puppies and unvaccinated dogs and symptoms include fever, coughing, vomiting, muscle twitches and convulsions.

Generalized Tremor Syndrome

As the name suggests, body tremors are the most common sign of the disorder, which is caused by inflammation in the myelin substance that covers the brain and spinal cord.

Epilepsy

The disorder causes repeated episodes of seizures. It’s often an “idiopathic” disorder, which means there is no known cause that can be identified despite extensive testing. However, liver disease, brain tumors, and kidney failure can also cause seizures that cause the entire body to shake.

Toxic Exposures

Certain medications, rodent poison, insecticides and even certain foods, including xylitol (the artificial sweetener), caffeine and chocolate can cause tremors in dogs.

Dog Trembling: When to See a Vet

You could search online for “why is my dog shaking” or “dog shaking uncontrollably” to try to determine the cause, but Derse suggests calling your veterinarian instead.

“I would much rather see a dog and tell the pet parent that it’s not a big deal than wait and leave something untreated,” she says.

With the help of a full physical exam, your vet can provide an accurate diagnosis and offer treatment options, which may range from medication, calming products, or behavior modification to help your dog stop shaking.

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According to Dr. Annette Louvier, veterinarian with Wisdom Health Genetics, ear infections can be broken into three different categories: otitis externa (infection of the external canal), otitis media (middle canal), and otitis interna (internal canal). 

“While otitis externa is the most common, otitis media and interna are often due to the spread of otitis externa,” says Dr. Louvier. “Because infections of the middle and inner ear can be rather serious, not to mention painful, it’s important to treat any ear infection early and to prevent it when possible.”

If you suspect your dog has an ear infection, we’ve got you covered on the signs of ear infection in dogs, causes of dog ear infections, and how to clean a dog’s ears to prevent ear infections from developing.

What Causes a Dog Ear Infection?  

One of the main reasons dogs frequently get ear infections is because of the shape of the ear canal.

“A dog’s ear canal is shaped like that of the letter L, which is unfortunately great for holding moisture and creating an environment which allows bacteria and yeast overgrowth,” says Dr. Louvier. “So when mixed with other factors—either internal, like allergies and hormone disorders, or external, such as injury or foreign bodies—then it makes the dog vulnerable to ear infections.”

Types of Ear Infections in Dogs

Not all ear infections are caused by the same thing. There are three main types: parasitic, bacterial, and viral.

Parasite Ear Infections: Parasitic ear infections are usually caused by ear mites. “Ear mites cause itch and irritation, which primes the ear canals for secondary bacterial and yeast infections,” says Dr. Louvier. “This type of infection most often occurs in young puppies.”

Bacterial Ear Infections: Bacterial infections are typically made up of opportunistic bacteria which commonly live on the skin in low levels. “While bacteria alone won’t cause an ear infection, things such as moisture and inflammation will allow the bacteria to take hold,” says Dr. Louvier. “And once that happens, the bacteria will multiply and push the cycle of inflammation forward to a full blown ear infection.”

Fungal Ear Infections: Yeast is the biggest cause of fungal ear infections. Yeast naturally lives on your pup’s skin. “However, when in the proper environment, yeast populations will increase and perpetuate inflammation leading to an ear infection,” says Dr. Louvier. 

Other Causes of Ear Infections in Dogs 

Things like allergies, foreign objects and tumors can directly cause inflammation, allowing secondary bacterial and yeast infections. 

And those cute floppy ears may be another cause. “Some breeds have large ear flaps that may trap moisture, while others have hair within the canals that sometimes hold humidity,” adds Dr. Louvier. Some examples of breeds more prone to ear infections include Basset Hounds, Beagles, Labrador Retrievers, and Cocker Spaniels.

Symptoms of Ear Infections in Dogs

If your pup has an ear infection, their behavior will probably be a dead giveaway that something’s wrong.

“Because ear infections are painful, many dogs will scratch and shake their head in attempts to provide relief,” says Dr. Louvier.

You also may notice physical signs on or inside your dog’s ears. 

“Additionally, the ears will become red due to inflammation, and often there will be an increase in either yellow or dark/black discharge which can be accompanied by an odor. In some cases skin crusting may also occur,” says Dr. Louvier. 

She adds that for dogs with chronic or frequently recurring infections, the ear canals may become thickened and narrow due to the persistent inflammation. 

Diagnosing Ear Infections in Dogs 

To officially diagnose your pup with an ear infection, your vet will do a thorough examination of the external ear, as well as use an otoscope to look within the ear canal. 

“Veterinarians are looking at the health of the skin, evidence of self-trauma (like scratching), changes of the ear anatomy, discharge and debris, possible foreign objects, visualization of the eardrum (which is very important when it comes time for treatment) and more,” says Dr. Louvier.

She adds that veterinarians will often use a cotton-tipped applicator to make a smear of the ear debris to review under a microscope. 

“These findings can provide quick diagnostic information—such as confirming presence of ear mites and visualizing the overgrowth of bacteria or yeast,” she explains.

In some cases, especially for recurrent or chronic infections, additional testing may be required. 

“This can vary depending on physical exam findings, severity of the ear infection, and the type of microorganism causing the infection. Really painful pups may also require sedation to facilitate the exam, testing, and initial treatment (such as flushing out the ear, if necessary),” adds Dr. Louvier.

Dog Ear Infection Treatments

To get your pup feeling better, your vet may prescribe varying treatments depending on the underlying cause and severity of the ear infection. 

“For the more common causes of ear infections, topical medications are typically prescribed and tailored towards the type of infection present (bacterial, yeast, etc),” says Dr. Louvier. 

However, she explains that the first step in treatment is carefully cleaning the ear canal so that medications can work appropriately. Additionally, some pups may also require removal of hair from within the ear canals—breeds like the Bichon Frise, for instance. 

“The use of topical medications is also why it’s important to confirm the health of the eardrum, as some medications can be harmful to the middle and inner ear, so naturally those should be avoided in cases of a ruptured eardrum,” adds Dr. Louvier.

Pet parents should refrain trying to treat dog ear infections with at-home remedies without talking to their veterinarian first. 

“Substances used in home remedies, including vinegar dilutions, may not typically cause problems with healthy ear canals,” says Dr. Louvier. “However, these same substances can irritate tissue that’s already inflamed and sometimes even increase discharge secretions which continues the cycle of infection.”

How to Prevent Ear Infections in Dogs

To help keep your dog’s ears healthy, there are things you can do to prevent ear infections from developing. Here are three easy tips to follow:

Inspect Your Dog’s Ears Regularly

Every pet parent knows their furry friend the best, so you are the best resource for picking up on early changes. Plus, catching an infection early provides the best chance of treatment success and helps avoid worsening complications, like spreading to the middle or inner ear.

How to do it: Look at the skin on the ear flap and within the visible portion of the ear canal. 

“Things to note include evidence of pain (such as whining or reluctance towards being touched), evidence of scratching, skin redness, increase of moisture, change in odor, increase in debris within the ears, and so on,” says Dr. Lovier. “Any changes indicate it’s time for a checkup.”

Keep Your Dog’s Ears Clean 

Paired with regularly inspecting your dog’s ears, cleaning your dog’s ears will help you stay on top of any changes that may be occurring. Ear cleanings also help remove any wax build up that could contribute to worsening issues.

How to do it: Start by checking with your veterinarian for a run down on how to safely clean your dog’s ears at home. Then look for a gentle dog ear cleaner that best suits your dog’s needs. You can buy a dog ear cleaner from a pet supply store or online shop or ask your veterinarian for recommendations.

“Two options include filling the ear canal directly with the cleaning solution or applying the solution via a soaked cotton ball,” says Dr. Louvier. “You would then massage the base of the ear for roughly 30 seconds before allowing your pup to shake their head.”

She then recommends using either a soft towel or dry cotton balls to remove visible debris.

It’s important to avoid using anything that may push debris down further into the ear canal or that could damage the eardrum. This includes cotton-tipped applicators. 

Keep Your Dog’s Ears Dry

Keeping your dog’s ear canals dry will prevent the skin from softening. Excessive moisture can impair the skin’s ability to function as a protective barrier against bacteria and yeast. 

How to do it: Always do your best to dry your dog’s ears after bathing or swimming. Two helpful tools to accomplish this are drying solutions and cotton balls. 

“Your veterinarian can advise you when to and how to apply drying agents properly. This is because drying agents aren’t meant to be used on a frequent basis as it’s possible to dry out the ear too much,” says Dr. Louvier. “That being said—drying agents are great for water-loving dogs and some bath times. At other times, a simple cotton ball placed at the opening of the ears during bathing can help keep the ears dry.”

The post Dog Ear Infection: Causes and How to Help appeared first on Great Pet Care.

A small amount of mucus in stools can be normal, but dog poop covered in mucus is a common symptom that veterinarians see regularly. While many causes of mucus are mild, there are a few to look out for—so let’s look at everything you need to know about mucus in dog poop.

Mucus in Dog Poop: What Does it Look Like?

A lot of people find it difficult to recognize mucus in their dog’s poop. So what does mucus in poop look like?

I often describe mucus as “jelly” or “slime”—it’s usually clear and sticky, and covers all or part of your dog’s poop. You may also see chunks of jelly-mucus in your dog’s poop, especially if he has diarrhea. 

It’s also possible for mucus in dog stool to be colored. White mucus in dog poop is the most common color, but mucus can also be green. Green mucus in dog poop may be down to food colorings or eating grass, but can also suggest a bacterial infection. 

If your dog is pooping mucus that is red, this is usually blood (although again can be due to food coloring). Bloody mucus in dog poop is not an emergency, but it is concerning. It’s usually caused by burst blood vessels in the last part of the gut—the colon—and suggests inflammation or straining, both of which are common in dogs with diarrhea.

What Causes Mucus in Dog Poop?

Mucus is the normal lining of your dog’s intestines. It’s secreted by large bowel cells to help feces move through the gut properly (it’s an intestinal lubricant), so small amounts of mucus in poop are completely normal, and usually go unnoticed. 

Another normal cause of mucus in dog poop is prolonged exercise. In one study, 16 percent of sled racing dogs had mucoid poop during racing. 

Poop with mucus in it suggests that your dog is suffering from colitis (large bowel inflammation). Dogs with colitis will also have several other symptoms such as loose stools, straining, and increased urgency and frequency of needing to go for bathroom breaks. 

Causes of colitis in dogs (and therefore mucus in your dog’s poop) include:

Sudden Dietary Changes

If you’ve just run out of your dog’s food and had to switch to something different, this can cause temporary colitis. That’s why it’s important to transition to new foods slowly. Similarly, dogs that scavenge while on walks are prone to bouts of diarrhea and colitis from the sudden dietary change or even from toxins in whatever they pick up. 

It’s common for dogs to go off their food and be a little lethargic when colitis is caused by diet changes. Luckily, this type of colitis usually resolves after a few days.

Bacterial Infection

When bacterial toxins reach the large bowel they can cause inflammation and excess mucus production. Common bacteria that cause colitis are food-borne pathogens such as Salmonella and E.coli. 

Many dogs pick these bacteria up while out and about, but it’s worth remembering that dogs being fed a raw diet are at higher risk of eating these bacteria in their food. Apart from stool covered in mucus, bacterial infections like these can also cause inappetence and vomiting, and may progress to more severe effects if not treated.

Parasite Infection

Infection with gastrointestinal parasites (commonly called ‘worms’) often causes loose stools or diarrhea with mucus. Whipworm and roundworm are common culprits. Giardia and cryptosporidium are two microscopic parasites that commonly cause dog poop to be covered in mucus. They’re more common in young puppies and can be difficult to get rid of, not responding to the usual deworming medications.

Irritable Bowel Disease (IBD)

Like people, dogs can suffer from irritable bowel disease and this can cause symptoms of colitis and mucus in their stool. This is usually down to a food intolerance—a reaction to a specific protein in their diet. You may see other signs, such as weight loss, reluctance to eat, and occasionally vomiting. Itchy skin is also a sign of food allergies so may be seen alongside mucus in your dog’s stool.

Stress

One of the most common causes of colitis is stress. Stress increases the speed that the intestinal contents move through the guts. This means the food isn’t processed properly, causing the bacteria in the intestines to have more nutrients than usual. The resulting bacterial activity can cause diarrhea and mucus in poop. You may have seen other signs and know the cause of stress—recent fireworks or a change in routine are common causes—or it may be that your dog has ongoing minor stress that shows only as mucus in their poop.

Leishmania

Leishmania is a blood-borne disease carried by sandflies. Colitis has been found to be caused by leishmania, although this is a rare symptom. More common symptoms include skin problems, eye problems, and nosebleeds, along with weight loss and lethargy. 

Granulomatous Colitis of Boxer Dogs

This rare condition causes mucus in dog poop in Boxers alongside weight loss, bloody stool, and other colitis symptoms. In this disease, the intestinal wall becomes inflamed, thickened, and ulcerated in response to E.coli.

Mucus in Dog Poop: When to Seek Help

If your adult dog has a mild case of mucus in his or her poop, you may decide to simply monitor your dog at home. For instance, if your dog’s diet has recently changed and they get mucus in their stool but are otherwise well, it’s likely this will resolve in a couple of days.

However, if the mucus does not resolve or your dog’s diarrhea gets worse, it’s a good idea to see a veterinarian.

Puppies need to see a veterinarian as soon as they become unwell. This is because they can quickly deteriorate and become dehydrated. 

Dogs that are showing other symptoms or dogs with colitis lasting more than a couple of days also need to see a veterinarian for investigation and treatment. Symptoms that suggest an urgent vet visit is required include:

• Vomiting (especially if more than once)
• Tarry (black-colored) feces
• Large amounts of blood in feces
• Lethargy, reluctance to exercise
• Weight loss, or thin body condition score
•  Inappetence (not eating) lasting more than 24 hours

Don’t forget that colitis that reoccurs is also a problem, even if each episode is mild and short-lasting. Recurrent mucoid poops can be a sign of an ongoing internal problem so should be investigated, even if your dog is normal between episodes.

If your dog requires veterinary care for mucus in their poop, having a pet health insurance policy such as Lemonade can help defray unexpected medical expenses. With premiums that start as low as $10 per month, you can customize your coverage according to your specific needs and budget.

How to Treat Mucus in Dog Poop

The treatment your dog will need depends on the cause of mucus in their poop. For some dogs, the mucus will be a one-time issue that resolves itself after a couple of days.

For other dogs, treatments may be more intensive. Parasites will need to be treated with a prescription dewormer, and bacterial infections and Leishmania will need antibiotics. Dogs with recurrent episodes of colitis and mucus in their poop may require a prescription diet from a veterinarian.

Home Remedies

If your dog is acting normal and still has energy and an appetite, you can try offering them a bland diet of boiled chicken and white rice at home for a few days.

Many causes of colitis and mucus can be improved with a high fiber diet or probiotics. Diet changes may also be needed with IBD, although in this case it’s best to attempt to determine the food allergen and remove it from your dog’s diet. 

If your dog’s poop does not improve after a few days on a bland diet or if your dog’s symptoms get worse, you should contact your veterinarian.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Why does my dog have mucus in his poop?

Mucus in dog poop can be caused by a variety of things ranging from stress and dietary changes to bacterial infections, diseases, and allergies and food intolerances. If your dog is experiencing mucus from stress or something he ate, the mucus should resolve on its own in a few days. However, if you notice dog poop with mucus that lasts for more than a few days, you should see a veterinarian to determine the cause and best course of treatment.

Is mucus in dog poop bad?

Mucus in dog poop is not necessarily something to worry about if your dog is acting normal and it resolves in a few days. However, green mucus could indicate a bacterial infection or bloody mucus could signal inflammation in the colon due to stress colitis or food intolerances. If the mucus lasts more than a few days, your dog’s diarrhea gets worse, or your dog begins to show other symptoms or is acting differently (lethargic, doesn’t want to eat, etc.) you should see a veterinarian.

Can stress cause diarrhea in dogs?

Yes, stress can cause diarrhea in dogs and this diarrhea may contain mucus. This is called stress colitis and can happen if a dog experiences physical (surgery, increased activity, trauma) or mental stress (boarding, veterinary visit, separation anxiety, moving, etc.). Stress causes an overgrowth of harmful bacteria in your dog’s gut and can result in diarrhea and mucus in your dog’s stools.

Conclusion

If your dog has mucus in their poop, it’s likely they’re suffering from colitis, or inflammation of the large bowel. There are many causes of colitis, most of which are mild or self-limiting. Some will need further investigations and treatment, especially if your dog doesn’t recover within a couple of days or shows other signs. 

Bottom line—if you see mucus in your dog’s poop, keep a close eye on your dog for other symptoms or changes and call your veterinarian if things don’t improve or you have any concerns. 

The post Mucus in Dog Poop: Causes and How to Treat It appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Meowing at humans is a normal behavior, but what can you do if your cat meows excessively all the time, or has recently changed from a quiet cat to an overactive talker? 

Cat Meowing: How Much is Normal?

Cats use meowing to communicate with us. The most common normal reasons a cat meows are because they want something from you including attention, play, food, to go outside, etc. 

A cat will also meow to say hi or to announce their presence. Some cats will meow to themselves as they walk around the house, or they may meow because they are lonely. Female cats in heat will meow to attract a mate. 

The amount a cat meows varies between individual cats and between breeds of cats. Bengals, Abyssians, and Siamese cats, for example, are known to be ‘talkers,’ and meow more than your average domestic cat. 

When it comes to how much meowing is too much, it is less about the amount of meowing and more about overall changes in your cat’s behavior. Some cats just meow a lot, just like some dogs bark a lot. If your cat has been a lifelong talker, then that is likely normal for your cat. However, if your cat has started meowing more recently, or if your cat’s voice is suddenly louder or softer or different in any way, then something might be going on that is causing excessive meowing. 

Why is My Cat Meowing So Much?

If your cat has had a recent uptick in meowing, there is likely something that has changed in your cat’s world. There are many things that can cause increased meowing in cats, including:

Medical conditions. Certain conditions such as hyperthyroidism or general pain can cause cats to vocalize more than usual. In addition, hyperthyroidism causes a cat to be hungry, which can cause increased meowing if your cat normally meows at you to get food.

Boredom or loneliness. When cats are bored or lonely they often use meowing as attention seeking behavior.

Stress or anxiety. If you have had changes in your household or your cat has been stressed for any reason it can lead to increased meowing.

Advanced age. Senior or geriatric cats are more susceptible to old age diseases, including arthritis,  hearing loss, vision loss, and dementia, which can lead to increased vocalization especially at night. 

Other Symptoms to Watch For

If your cat has suddenly become a meowing over-achiever and it is due to a problem, cats will often drop other clues which can help you understand why your cat is communicating with you more than usual.

Excessive meowing due to a medical condition may include other symptoms such as:

• Changes in weight
• Changes in appetite
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Decreased energy
• Increased energy
• Hiding more than usual

If your cat is older and starts vocalizing more, watch for signs of:

• Vision loss
• Hearing loss
• Dementia

Stress may cause cats to develop cystitis or a urinary tract infection. Watch for the following symptoms of urinary problems in addition to meowing:

• Urinating or defecating outside the litter box
• Straining in the litter box
• Bloody urine

Stress, separation anxiety, or loneliness may also cause cats to display the following behaviors:

• Over grooming that leads to bald patches
• Litter box problems
• Increased hiding
• Acting jumpy or clingy
• Following you more than usual

If your cat is meowing more than normal, it is always a good idea to note any behavior changes and get your cat checked out by a veterinarian to make sure there isn’t an underlying medical cause.

How to Get a Cat to Stop Meowing So Much

While vocalization is normal and healthy for cats, if excessive meowing is interfering with your quality of life then there are strategies you can use to reduce the amount of meows coming from your cat. 

If underlying medical problems have been ruled out, then the best thing to do is ignore your cat when they start meowing at you to get something. Do not reward the meowing with treats or attention because this will reinforce the behavior. 

Instead, ignore your cat when they are meowing at you and reward them with whatever it is they want when they are being quiet and polite. This may be hard to do in the beginning but eventually they will get the idea. 

Additional strategies to reducing excessive meowing include: 

Environmental Enrichment

If your cat is bored, invest in environmental enrichment to reduce stress. This involves things like plentiful vertical and horizontal scratching opportunities, increased vertical space and climbing opportunities, outdoor time on a leash or in a Catio, food puzzles and hunting opportunities, etc. 

Stress Reduction

Evaluate your cat’s environment for stressors, such as stray cats, overcrowding of cats, not enough resources, etc. and remove or reduce stressors if possible. If you aren’t sure what stresses your cat, here is an educational resource on all things that can stress cats out. 

Litter Box Maintenance

Have one more litter box than the number of cats to ensure good litter box hygiene and habits. Clean boxes daily and make sure they are in accessible areas so your cat can easily find them.

Exercise

Increase daily play and exercise sessions to wear your cat out. Cats will be less stressed and lonely if you make sure they get plenty of interaction and activity throughout the day.

Maintain Routine

Cats don’t like changes, so keep feeding, play time, bedtime, etc. at the same time every day as much as possible so your cat knows what to expect and when to expect it. 

Utilize Calming Aids

Utilize calming aids for stressed cats, including pheromone diffusers, thundershirts, or Assisi loop technology.

Try Calming Supplements

Calming supplements such as CBD oil, or products that contain l-theanine, milk protein, or tryptophan which can help reduce anxiety that contributes to excessive vocalization. Some cats also benefit from catnip.

Adjust Feeding Schedules

If your cat is bugging you at night for food, try giving your cat a small high protein snack before bed, and consider getting an automatic feeder that will dispense a pre-measured amount of food at the time you determine.

The Conclusion on Excess Cat Meowing

By knowing why your cat is meowing and then employing the strategies listed above you should be able to reduce excessive vocalization in most cats. If you are still hitting a wall, reach out to your local veterinarian for additional tips and tricks that will help your cat be less vociferous.

The post Why Does My Cat Meow So Much? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Stressful though it may be, regular veterinary care is vital to your cat’s health, and there are ways to make the experience better for the both of you. Here’s how often you should take your cat to the vet and why regular cat checkups are so important.

How Often Should Cats Go to the Vet?

Pet owners often ask when and how often their cat should go to the vet, and there are multiple variables that contribute to the answer to this question. Age, health status and lifestyle will all play a role in your cat’s vet schedule. That said, the American Animal Hospital Association recommends taking your adult cat in for a checkup at least once a year.

Why It’s Important to Take Your Cat to the Vet

Regular veterinary care throughout your cat’s life is valuable for many reasons. Every veterinary visit will include a physical examination which can help your vet detect issues including skin conditions, dental disease, and even masses found in or on your cat. External parasites, such as fleas, ticks or ear mites can also be found and treated at vet visits.

And even if your cat remains an indoor companion, it is still important to keep them up to date on vaccines and annual wellness testing (which includes a physical exam, blood work and a fecal test). Routine diagnostics like these will help your veterinarian catch any abnormalities readily and early so appropriate medications or treatments can be started. Regular vaccines will also keep your cat protected and immunized from life-threatening illnesses, like rabies. And don’t forget about those monthly flea, tick, heartworm and parasite preventives!

How Often Do Cats Get Shots?

Different life stages will require different levels of veterinary care. Kittens will see the vet more often, as vaccine boosters are required quite frequently until sufficient immunity is achieved. Beginning at 6 to 8 weeks of age, a kitten will receive their first FVRCP (Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis Calicivirus Panleukopenia) vaccine. This is a combination vaccine often referred to as a feline distemper vaccine. It will need to be boostered three to four weeks later, then three to four weeks after that, for a total of three vaccines. Once the final round is given, these vaccines are good for one year’s time. Kittens will also receive their first rabies vaccine between 13 and 16 weeks of age.

If your kitten is going to spend any amount of time outdoors, it may be recommended by your veterinarian that they also receive the feline leukemia vaccine. Feline leukemia is spread from cat to cat (not transmissible to humans) via bodily fluids, so it is possible for an outside cat to encounter another cat carrying the disease at some point.

After your kitten gets all of its shots, they will be spayed or neutered (around 6 months of age). Vet visits during this time will also include fecal tests to check for intestinal parasites and a monthly flea, tick and parasite preventive should begin to be given. Once your cat is spayed or neutered and has all of its shots, they should be all set with veterinary visits until their annual cat checkup. 

After your cat receives their initial FVRCP and rabies vaccines, it is possible that your veterinarian will recommend a three-year version of these vaccines. That said, adult cats should still be brought in for an annual checkup to screen for any underlying health issues. A stool sample should be checked annually, as well, even if your cat does not go outside. 

Once your cat hits 7 years of age, it is recommended to increase veterinary visits to every 6 months. Just like aging humans, medical conditions in senior cats can arise quickly and without notice, making regular wellness exams very important. Annual routine blood work should be run to screen for any metabolic issues and overall organ function. 

If your cat is diagnosed with any illness or chronic condition throughout their lifetime, your veterinarian may recommend a different annual examination or vaccination schedule for them.

Tips for Bringing Your Cat to the Vet

Bringing a cat to the vet may not be the easiest task in the world, but there are a few things you can do to help get them there safely and happily:

Make sure your cat has a comfortable carrier. It should be large enough so that they fit comfortably, but not too large where they will feel vulnerable or jostled around in the car ride. It is helpful to leave the crate open at home for a couple of weeks before the appointment so that your cat becomes familiar with the equipment. You can put their favorite toy or an article of clothing that smells like you in the carrier with them or encourage them into the carrier with a little catnip or treats. There are also pheromone sprays that can be used as a calming agent. In addition, secure your cat’s crate on the floor between the front and back seat or strap it in so that your cat does not get jostled around.

Consider medicating your cat ahead of time. If your pet is a scaredy cat, share your concerns with your veterinarian before making your appointment, as there are medications that can help calm them down prior to the whole experience.

Make an appointment for a quiet time of day. Try to schedule your cat’s appointment for a quiet time of day at the veterinary hospital or clinic, such as mid morning or early afternoon. You can also ask for the quietest time of day or for a quiet exam room.

Try a Fear Free or cats-only clinic. There are some veterinary clinics that deal solely with cats, which may be an option depending on where you are located. And you may be interested to find out if your veterinary clinic is Fear Free Certified or uses low-stress handling techniques. This means they take every precaution to provide a calm environment for cats, as well as use minimal restraint during examinations and procedures.

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Let’s take a look at six of the most common tick-borne illnesses in the United States and how they can impact your dog’s health.

How Do Ticks Transmit Disease?

Dogs are infected with tick-borne illnesses when they are bitten by an infected tick or, in some cases, when they ingest an infected tick. Ticks on dogs must remain attached long enough to transmit the disease – some diseases take as little as a few hours to transmit while others may require as much as 1-2 days of attachment for transmission to occur. After transmission, the incubation period (the time it takes for symptoms to appear) varies from days to months depending on the disease. 

6 Dangerous Tick-Borne Diseases

Tick-borne illnesses vary in their symptoms and severity, but all of them have the potential to cause serious illness or even death. Timely diagnosis and appropriate treatment are essential to ensure your dog has the best possible outcome. 

Lyme Disease

Lyme disease is most common in the northeastern, upper midwestern, and west coast regions of the United States. It is caused by a bacteria which is transmitted by the following types of ticks: 

• Black-legged tick
• Western black-legged tick

The majority of dogs infected with Lyme disease remain asymptomatic. In 5-10 percent of infected dogs, symptoms develop within 2-5 months of infection. Symptoms of Lyme disease in dogs can include fever, lethargy, loss of appetite, joint pain, shifting leg lameness and swollen lymph nodes. In rare cases, a serious and sometimes fatal condition called Lyme nephritis can occur, in which Lyme disease causes a progressive kidney failure.

Lyme disease is treated with antibiotics. Doxycycline is the most commonly used antibiotic for treating Lyme disease, but other antibiotics such as amoxicillin, azithromycin, or cefovecin may also be used. Your veterinarian may also prescribe an anti-inflammatory medication to help alleviate the joint pain that can be caused by Lyme disease. For patients with Lyme nephritis, hospitalization and aggressive fluid therapy are necessary to try to prevent kidney failure. 

For dogs with uncomplicated Lyme disease, the prognosis is good and most begin to show improvement within 24 to 48 hours of starting treatment. For dogs with Lyme nephritis, the prognosis is poor. 

There is a Lyme disease vaccine for dogs that is available at most veterinary clinics. Speak with your veterinarian about the Lyme vaccine if you live in an area where Lyme disease poses a significant threat.

Anaplasmosis

Anaplasmosis is found in the northeastern and upper midwest regions of the United States, as well as along the west coast. Anaplasmosis is caused by bacterium which is transmitted by the same types of ticks that carry Lyme disease. Infections occur most commonly in late spring through fall. 

Many dogs infected with Anaplasmosis are asymptomatic. Those that do develop symptoms often display signs such as lethargy, loss of appetite, fever, dehydration, swollen lymph nodes, weight loss, pale mucus membranes and lameness. 

Anaplasmosis is treated with oral antibiotics such as doxycycline, minocycline, tetracycline or chloramphenicol. Your veterinarian may also prescribe an anti-inflammatory medication to help alleviate joint pain that can occur as a result of anaplasmosis infection. When treated appropriately, the prognosis for dogs infected with anaplasma is very good.

Ehrlichiosis

Ehrlichiosis can be divided into two subtypes: canine monocytic ehrlichiosis (CME), which is transmitted by the brown dog tick, and granulocytic ehrlichiosis, which is transmitted by the lone star tick. 

CME is most common in the southwestern and southeastern United States, while granulocytic ehrlichiosis is most common in south central and southeastern United States, primarily in the spring and summer.

Dogs infected with ehrlichiosis may have few or no symptoms. Symptoms vary depending on the type of ehrlichiosis infection. Dogs infected with granulocytic ehrlichiosis most commonly show symptoms including loss of appetite, lameness, stiff gait and lethargy. 

Dogs infected with CME will show symptoms such as depression, dehydration, fever, loss of appetite, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, enlarged lymph nodes and bleeding abnormalities.

Ehrlichiosis is treated with antibiotics such as doxycycline, minocycline, tetracycline, or chloramphenicol. Your veterinarian will prescribe an appropriate antibiotic and dosing regimen for your dog.                                                                                                                                   

Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever

Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever occurs primarily in the southeastern, midwestern, western, and mid-Atlantic regions of the United States. Infections most commonly occur from March to October. The disease is caused by a bacterium transmitted through the bite of several types of ticks including the American dog tick, Rocky Mountain wood tick, lone star tick and brown dog tick. 

Infections can range in severity from mild to fatal. Less severe cases may have few or no symptoms of infections. Other cases cause symptoms such as depression, loss of appetite, muscle pain, vomiting, weakness, weight loss, bruising and nosebleeds. Severe cases may progress to multi-organ failure and may develop additional symptoms depending on the organ systems affected.

Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever is treated with antibiotics such as doxycycline, tetracycline, enrofloxacin, or chloramphenicol. Your veterinarian will choose an appropriate antibiotic and dosage regimen for your pet. 

Severe cases of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever may need additional supportive therapy such as intravenous fluids, steroids, or blood products. Most dogs respond rapidly to antibiotics and prognosis is excellent for those diagnosed and treated early in the course of disease.

Babesiosis

Babesiosis occurs throughout the world, but in the United States infections are more common in the southern states. This disease is most commonly transmitted by the brown dog tick species, but can also be transmitted by several other types of tick including the deer tick, American dog tick, and the Asian longhorned tick. 

Infections with Babesia spp. often produce no symptoms. Dogs that do develop symptoms typically experience moderate to severe hemolytic anemia along with fever, lethargy, loss of appetite, bruising, vomiting, discolored urine, bleeding, weakness, pallor and nose bleeds. 

Treatment of Babesiosis depends on the species of Babesia causing the infection. Large Babesia species are treated with injections administered by your veterinarian. Small Babesia species are more difficult to treat and may be addressed with a combination of oral medications. 

Your veterinarian will determine the best course of treatment for your dog based on the type and severity of the infection. In severe cases, supportive care such as fluid therapy or blood transfusions may also be warranted.

Hepatozoonosis

Canine hepatozoonosis is found worldwide. In the United States, it is most common in southern states. It most frequently affects young dogs under 2 years of age and is spread by the brown dog tick. Unlike the other tick-borne diseases, hepatozoonosis is transmitted by ingesting an infected tick, not by being bitten by one. 

Many infected dogs are asymptomatic or have minimal symptoms. Dogs that do exhibit symptoms may experience lethargy, loss of appetite, weight loss, fever, dehydration, pallor and enlarged lymph nodes. The disease can be debilitating or even fatal.

The goal of treating hepatozoonosis is to eliminate the parasite from the bloodstream and alleviate clinical signs. While treatment is often successful at reducing symptoms and improving quality of life, it is very difficult to completely clear the parasite and a cure for this disease is unlikely. Treatment for hepatozoonosis typically involves injections administered by your veterinarian at one to two-week intervals. Alternatively, your veterinarian may prescribe a combination of oral medications such as Procox, clindamycin, or doxycycline. Hepatozoonosis may require treatment for a year or longer.

Tick-Borne Disease in Dogs Infographic

How to Prevent Tick-Borne Illnesses in Dogs

Tick-borne illnesses can be easily prevented by keeping your dog up to date on flea and tick preventive medications year round. There are several excellent products on the market in both chewable and topical formulations, so you’re sure to find a product that fits both your pet’s needs and your own lifestyle and budget. Your veterinarian can help you choose a product that is safe, effective and best suited to your needs.

In addition to preventive medications, be sure to thoroughly examine your dog for ticks after spending time in wooded areas, tall grassy meadows, or other areas where ticks are commonly found. Ticks on dogs must be attached for hours to days in order to transmit disease, so removing a tick as soon as possible can help prevent tick-borne illnesses in your dog.

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The Dangers of Ear Ticks on Dogs

Usually, dogs get ticks by going outside. Ticks wait on blades of grass, shrubs and even trees to attach themselves to passing animals. When your dog walks by, the tick senses him and jumps aboard. Dogs who hike, hunt, or live near the woods are at higher risk for ticks but any dog who goes outside can be bitten by a tick. 

Once a tick has landed on your dog, it can be hard to tell what a tick looks like on a dog. They often look for a warm safe place to hide and embed themselves. Some common places include arm and leg pits, between the toes, under the collar, and the ears. 

While ticks do embed everywhere on dogs, ears are among the most common places. Whether floppy or erect there are plenty of nooks and crannies in a dog’s ear for ticks to hide and make themselves comfortable. Ear ticks on dogs are only a bigger risk than any other location if they embed in a dog’s ear canal. A tick in this location is especially difficult to find and can lead to ear infections and even deafness. Because ears are sensitive and they tend to bleed easily, it is important to take extra precautions when removing a tick from a dog’s ear.

All ticks are dangerous because they can carry diseases, but different types of ticks carry different diseases. While Lyme disease is often the most well known tick-borne illness, there are many other diseases spread by ticks including Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever, Ehrlichiosis, tick paralysis and Alpha-gal (the disease that makes humans allergic to red meat). In some cases, it only takes a few hours for ticks to transmit disease to dogs. 

At first, these diseases mostly cause vague symptoms in dogs such as tiredness, soreness and a decreased appetite. However, some dogs get much sicker and can suffer consequences like kidney failure, blood problems, paralysis and even death. That is why it is very important to use effective tick prevention and also monitor your dog for ticks closely. 

How to Tell if Your Dog Has Ear Ticks

Your dog can have a tick on its ear and never show any signs that it’s there. Some dogs will shake their heads or scratch at their ears because of an embedded ear tick while others will not. These are also signs of an ear infection, so if you have looked carefully for a tick and can’t find one then your dog should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible. 

It is a good idea to check your dog’s ears and their whole body for ticks after all outings with high tick exposure such as hiking, hunting, or a walk at the park. Risk is highest in summer and fall but ticks can be active all year-round. 

Using your hands as much as your eyes, slowly and carefully look and feel all over your dog for any lumps or bumps that weren’t there before. Spread the hair over any area you feel a bump and visually inspect it for a dark red, brown, or black dot. Turn the ears over to feel and look on both sides. Look as far into the ear canal as you can. Spread your dogs toes and look on the top and bottom of the feet. This process may take some time if your dog has long or very thick hair. 

Ticks range in size from a pinpoint to raisin. Before a tick feeds it will feel mostly flat and hard. At this stage they look and feel like a small scab. Adult ticks have eight legs that you may notice moving. Their head is small relative to the rest of the body and the head will actually embed in your dog’s skin. As a tick feeds it becomes engorged, meaning the back part of the tick will swell to many times its original size. Engorged ticks look gray, light brown, or beige.

How to Remove Ticks From a Dog’s Ears 

Removing ear ticks on dogs is similar to removing a tick anywhere else on a dog’s body but with a few important differences. A dog’s ears are very sensitive and many dogs don’t appreciate their ears being messed with. When your dog and your household are calm, sit with your dog and offer treats for touching his ear. If your dog does not cooperate with you by staying still willingly, let your veterinarian remove the tick. It is not worth risking injury to yourself, your dog, or the bond between you. 

Ticks can be removed with tweezers or with any specially-designed tick removal tools (this article will only focus on removing ticks with tweezers). It is imperative to remove the entire tick including the head and mouth parts. If left behind, they can continue to transmit disease to your dog as well as cause a painful skin infection. If you are unsure whether you removed the entire tick including the head, draw a circle around the area with a pet-safe marker, and have your dog examined by a veterinarian. 

If you have any concerns at any point in the process, call your veterinarian. They may recommend bringing your dog in for tick removal or be able to coach you through the process in more detail.

If the tick is embedded in the ear canal do not attempt to remove it yourself. In that situation your veterinarian must be the one to remove it as you risk severely injuring your dog.

Tools Required for Tick Removal

• Rubber or disposal gloves
• Rubbing alcohol
• Cotton ball or cotton swab
• Clean tweezers
• Small bowl or cup
• Phone or camera
• Pet-safe (non-toxic) marker

Instructions to Remove a Tick from a Dog’s Ear

Step 1: Take a picture of the tick from both its top and bottom (if your dog becomes ill, your veterinarian will want to know what kind of tick bit your dog). Then, draw a 2-inch circle around the tick with a pet-safe marker. This way if you do not completely remove the tick, your veterinarian will know where to look.

Step 2: Wearing gloves, hold your dog’s ear firmly with your non-dominant hand. Use your other hand to separate the hair on the ear and rub the skin around the tick with rubbing alcohol using a cotton ball or cotton swab. Rub the cotton ball or swab directly on the tick as well.

Step 3: Keeping the hair parted around the tick, grasp its head with the tweezers as close as possible to the skin and slowly but firmly pull away from the skin without twisting. 

Step 4: Place the tick in the bowl or cup and photograph it again, as close up as you can. Then pour rubbing alcohol over it to cover it completely. This will kill the tick. 

Step 5: Using a fresh cotton ball or cotton swab, clean the area on your dog’s ear again with rubbing alcohol.

Step 6: Toss the tick into the toilet and flush. Throw away all of the disposable items. 

Step 7: Rinse the tweezers with rubbing alcohol and allow them to dry before cleaning with soap and water.

Step 8: Check your dog’s ears once more for ticks and repeat the above process if you find more.

How to Prevent Your Dog from Getting Ear Ticks

The best way to prevent your dog from getting ear ticks is to keep him on effective tick and flea control all year long. Your veterinarian will have several prescription options that are safe, effective and easy to use. The type of prevention you use is a personal choice, so consider not only the efficacy of a product but also the safety for your particular pet and the ease of administration. 

Collars, topicals, or oral tick prevention should be provided to your dog year-round. Ticks winter on wildlife, so even just going in the yard can lead to a tick bite. 

Check your dog for ticks after every adventure in the woods or around tall grass. Be sure to look on both sides of the ear and as deep into the canal as you can. Keep your dog off furniture and bedding until you are sure you have removed any ticks, even dead ones. 

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Chickpeas can be purchased in most stores—either dried or canned in water or brine. You will also come across chickpea products such as hummus (which is made from blended chickpeas) and gram flour (dried and ground chickpeas). 

Chickpeas are high in protein, which makes them a popular ingredient for those eating vegetarian or vegan diets. But can dogs eat chickpeas? Let’s take a look…

Can Dogs Have Chickpeas? 

The good news is that chickpeas are safe for dogs to eat. In fact, they’re becoming a popular ingredient in pet foods, usually as a carbohydrate replacement in grain-free foods. 

In 2017, a survey of pet foods available in the US found that over 11 percent of dry dog foods and 2 percent of wet dog foods included chickpeas. So, chickpeas—at least in most forms—are definitely safe for dogs to eat.  

Benefits of Chickpeas for Dogs

So now we know chickpeas are safe for dogs, the next question is whether they’re a healthy addition to dog diets. 

According to the USDA FoodData Central database, chickpeas contain nearly 9 grams of protein and 8 grams of fiber per 100g product, making them a high-protein, high-fiber vegetable. The rest of the weight of chickpea comes as carbohydrates and water, with only a very small amount of fat. 

Chickpeas contain vitamins and minerals too—magnesium, potassium, copper, calcium, Vitamin A and B-complex vitamins are all present in varying amounts. This means chickpeas are not only safe, they’re a relatively healthy option for dogs to eat.

Since chickpeas contain so much protein, it’s common for people to ask if dogs can be on a vegan diet if they eat chickpeas. However, although they pack a protein punch, chickpeas don’t necessarily have the right amino acids—the building blocks of protein—to make them suitable as a sole protein for dogs. For example, chickpeas are lacking in methionine, and only contain low levels of cysteine, both of which are essential for dogs. Chickpeas therefore should never be your dog’s only protein source.

In commercial dog food, chickpeas tend to be most frequently added to grain-free dry diets. During processing, traditional grains provide starch and structure that help the kibble to form. With a grain-free food, this function is performed by legumes like chickpeas. So, although the diet will take into account the protein, fiber, and micronutrients provided by chickpeas, they’re likely present for their starch content. 

How to Feed Chickpeas to Dogs

If you think chickpeas for dogs sounds like a great idea, you’ll want to know how best to feed them to your dog. Of course, the simplest way to feed your dog chickpeas is to buy a diet that includes them in the ingredients list. But if you’re looking to add chickpeas as a snack or treat, you’ll have to get a bit more inventive.

You can add chickpeas to your dog’s food, or use them as a training treat—they’re the perfect size! However, it’s important to be snack savvy when it comes to your pet and follow the golden rules outlined below.

Precautions When Feeding Chickpeas to Dogs

If you decide to feed your dog chickpeas, there are a few things you need to be aware of.

First, you should only ever feed cooked chickpeas. Dried chickpeas are difficult to eat and can cause illness, so cook dried chickpeas before feeding or stick to canned chickpea options. 

When feeding canned chickpeas to dogs, check the label carefully. Some canned chickpeas are packaged in brine, which contains too much excess salt for dogs. Look for chickpeas in water and without added ingredients.

Secondly, you should only ever feed your dog chickpeas in moderation. Chickpeas are not a complete and balanced food, so their calories need to be attributed to your dog’s treat count. A dog can have 10 percent of their daily calorie allowance from unbalanced sources. For a fit 25-pound dog this is just 60 calories. Don’t forget to take off any calories for dental chews, other snacks, or training treats before you work out how many chickpeas your dog is allowed each day, and adjust your dog’s dinner rations accordingly. 

It’s worth mentioning that grain-free canine diets containing large proportions of legumes like chickpeas have been implicated in the FDA’s investigation of diet-related dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), a heart condition in dogs. While chickpeas in dog food weren’t highlighted in the study, this might just be because fewer diets contain chickpeas than contain peas. This is another good reason to keep your dog’s chickpea ration to a minimum until we know more.

You should also ensure that when you first feed chickpeas to your dog, you feed a small amount—just one or two chickpeas—and monitor their reaction for 48 hours. This allows you to check for allergies or intolerances. 

In addition, chickpeas have a moderate to high fiber content and feeding too much too quickly can result in stomach upset. 

Can Dogs Eat Hummus?

Hummus is a dip made from chickpeas blended with various flavorings and oils. It’s popular as a dip or served on flatbreads, which means your dog may well try to sneak a taste. So, can dogs eat hummus? 

While the chickpeas in hummus are safe for dogs, the rest of the ingredients in the hummus may not be safe. Garlic, olive oil, and lemon juice are common ingredients in plain hummus, but some versions can include extra spices, onions, chillies, or herbs, among other things. Many of these ingredients are toxic or unhealthy for dogs, so make sure you check the ingredients list carefully. 

If you want to feed your dog hummus, the safest way to do so is to make your own, and add only dog-safe ingredients. Try not to add extra oil to the hummus, loosening it with water instead, as too much fat can make your dog ill.

The Chickpea Conclusion

Plain, cooked chickpeas are safe for dogs in moderation, and they’re even included as an ingredient in commercial dog foods. 

If you want to try chickpeas for dogs, it’s best to feed them only occasionally, in moderation, as a treat. Chickpeas shouldn’t make up too much of your dog’s diet as they’re not a balanced source of protein and are high in fiber, which can upset the gut. 

While chickpea allergies are very rare, you should still watch your dog carefully after first introducing chickpeas to make sure there are no adverse reactions. 

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By far the most common skin issues that veterinarians treat in dogs are related to allergies. Whereas humans typically show respiratory symptoms such as sneezing from allergies, dogs tend to get itchy and irritated skin. 

The most common kinds of skin allergies in dogs are due to flea allergies, environmental allergies (called atopic dermatitis), and food allergies. Pet parents with allergic dogs know how frustrating allergies can be to manage. But can allergy shots for dogs save the day? Let’s explore the different options, potential side effects, and if they make sense for your dog. 

Allergy Shots for Dogs: Understanding Your Options

There are three main types of allergy shots for dogs: 

• Steroids (glucocorticoids)
• Allergen-Specific Immunotherapy (ASIT) 
• Cytopoint

Glucocorticoids

Commonly known as steroids, glucocorticoids have been the oldest treatment for allergies in dogs. Steroids work to combat allergy symptoms by decreasing the body’s immune reaction to allergens. Steroids, especially the injectable kinds, have largely fallen out of favor for the treatment of allergies due to their wide range of negative side effects. 

Allergen-Specific Immunotherapy (ASIT)

Allergen-specific immunotherapy (ASIT) injections are what most people commonly refer to as “allergy shots” and are used in both humans and dogs to help desensitize them to the things they are allergic to. 

ASIT is only effective for the treatment of environmental allergies in dogs. For this reason, your dog should have a full allergy workup by your veterinarian to determine the cause of her allergies prior to starting ASIT injections. The diagnosis of atopic dermatitis (environmental allergies) is made once your veterinarian has excluded flea allergies and food allergies as the cause of your dog’s allergy symptoms. 

The first step to starting immunotherapy allergy shots is to have allergy testing performed by veterinarians who specialize in dermatology. If seeing a dermatologist is not an option for you due to your location or for financial reasons, blood allergy testing is an acceptable alternative. 

Once your veterinarian has determined what allergens your dog is allergic to, injections containing increasing amounts of those allergens will be given to your dog to desensitize her to those allergens. Shots are typically given twice weekly until a response is seen and then the frequency is decreased from there. With ASIT allergy shots for dogs, it can take up to 12 months for your dog to respond to this treatment and it is not guaranteed that your dog will respond to treatment. However, an estimated 50-75 percent of dogs show improvement following ASIT injections. 

Cytopoint 

The third and newest type of shot used to treat dog allergies is called Cytopoint (lokivetmab). Cytopoint is a monoclonal antibody that works by neutralizing a circulating protein before it can send itch signals to your dog’s brain. One injection works to stop itch caused by allergies and lasts about 4 to 8 weeks. 

A recent study showed Cytopoint to be effective for reducing itch symptoms in about 88 percent of dogs. The downside to Cytopoint is that it does not have any anti-inflammatory effects and inflammation can be a serious problem for dogs with allergies. 

Why Your Dog Might Need an Allergy Shot

The most common symptoms of allergies in dogs include itchy skin symptoms like licking excessively, biting their skin, rubbing themselves on furniture or carpets, scratching themselves, and shaking their ears. Their skin may also look red and inflamed and they may also develop frequent skin and ear infections. 

Any dog that is showing signs of allergies may benefit from an allergy shot. It is important to talk with your veterinarian about what kind of allergy shot they recommend and why. 

Cytopoint can be given to any dog greater than 8 weeks of age and is labeled as effective for itch caused by any type of allergy. Allergy immunotherapy shots are only effective for dogs with a diagnosis of atopic dermatitis, so these are not typically used for very young dogs. Steroids can relieve the symptoms of any kind of allergy but do have a high risk of side effects. 

Benefits of Allergy Shots for Dogs 

Each kind of allergy shot works differently to help control allergies. Steroids help decrease itch and inflammation. Cytopoint helps decrease itch. ASIT injections actually train your dog’s immune system to stop overreacting to allergens that it encounters. For this reason, ASIT injections are the closest thing to a cure for canine environmental allergies that we have. 

Dogs that may benefit from allergy shots over oral allergy medications are those that are very difficult to pill or for busy owners that can’t remember to give oral medications on a daily basis. 

Allergy shots are given less frequently than administering oral medications and may actually be more cost effective than giving your dog lifelong medication to treat allergies (see more about the costs below). 

Side Effects of Allergy Shots for Dogs

The side effects of the three main types of shots used to treat allergies vary quite a lot, with steroids by far having the greatest risk of negative side effects. 

Steroid Allergy Shot Side Effects

While steroids help to reduce the inflammation and itch associated with allergies, they also commonly cause the following side effects with short term use: 

• Excessive thirst and urination
• Excessive hunger
• Panting 
• Lethargy
• Stomach upset 
• Stomach ulcers

With long term use, steroids can cause more serious issues including: 

• Increased risks of infections, including skin infections
• Thinning of the skin
• Calcinosis cutis (calcified nodules in the skin)
• Loss of muscle mass 
• Increased body fat 
• Weight gain 
• Diabetes

For this reason, steroids are typically only given for the short term treatment of severely inflamed skin or ears and then allergy symptoms are typically managed with other injections or oral medications for the long term. 

ASIT Side Effects for Dogs

Allergen-specific immunotherapy shots do carry the risk of causing allergic anaphylactic reactions for some dogs, especially during the early phases of treatment. That is why pet parents should monitor their pups for 30 to 60 minutes after each injection. 

Cytopoint Side Effects

Cytopoint shots are very safe and showed no greater risk of side effects than a placebo in safety studies. 

How Much are Allergy Shots for Dogs?

Steroids are the least expensive allergy shots for dogs and typically range from $20-$40 per injection. The effects of a single steroid injection will typically last for 1 to 2 weeks. 

The cost for Cytopoint injections varies greatly depending on the weight of your dog. Injections for small breed dogs range from $60-$90 and may exceed $200 for giant breed dogs. One injection of Cytopoint will relieve itch symptoms for 4-8 weeks. For dogs with seasonal allergies, they may be controlled with a few injections per year. 

Skin or blood testing is first required to start a dog on allergen-specific immunotherapy injections and the cost ranges from about $400-$800. Then, pet parents can expect to pay between $40 to $80 per month for the injections that are typically administered by pet parents at home. As previously stated, it may take up to 12 months for ASIT injections to start to work, but if they are effective, they will be needed less and less frequently with time. 

While the costs of allergy shots may sound very high, managing your dog’s allergy symptoms with allergy shots can be more cost effective in the long term by reducing the need for vet visits to treat skin and ear infections. 

Other Allergy Medications for Dogs

There are no real cures for allergies in dogs. In addition to shots, pet parents should work with their veterinarians to discuss lifestyle changes, medications, supplements, and diets that can help to lessen symptoms. 

Allergy treatment typically requires a multimodal approach, meaning that more than one medication or treatment is recommended to help to manage symptoms. 

Most dogs with allergies are prescribed medicated shampoos, ear flushes, and/or wipes. These topical treatments help to decrease the number of bacteria and yeast on the skin and for this reason are helpful for treating and preventing the skin and ear infections that frequently result from allergies. 

The most common prescription oral medications used to treat allergies in dogs are Apoquel (oclacitinib), Atopica (cyclosporine) and oral steroids (prednisone, prednisolone, methylprednisolone). Apoquel and oral steroids are typically used early in the course of treating allergies because they have anti-inflammatory properties in addition to providing itch relief and start to work within hours. Atopica is used more commonly for dogs that fail to respond to Apoquel pills or Cytopoint injections. Oral allergy medications are good options for dogs that are too reactive or fearful of injections. 

Oral antihistamines such as Benadryl (diphenhydramine) have been used for allergies in dogs for many years. Diphenhydramine, cetirizine (zyrtec), and loratidine (claritin) may be effective for some dogs with mild symptoms or until you can get your pet in to see their veterinarian. Anti-histamine medications should not be given to dogs at risk for seizures.

The best way to manage allergies is to avoid the triggering allergen. For this reason, dogs with flea allergies and food allergies need to be given consistent flea preventives and fed special diets to best control their symptoms. For dogs with atopic dermatitis, it can be impossible to control the things in your dog’s environment that she is allergic to, and that’s when allergy shots of some kind can be most beneficial. 

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What is Sucralfate?

Sucralfate was first introduced as an ulcer medication for human patients in 1968, although it did not receive FDA approval in the United States until 1981. Sucralfate is labeled for the treatment of duodenal (upper small intestinal) ulcers, but this medication has also been used to treat ulcers at other locations throughout the gastrointestinal tract. 

Sucralfate is readily available in both brand-name and generic formulations. It is commonly used in veterinary medicine and can be found on the shelves of most veterinary practices in the United States. 

If your veterinarian does not stock this medication, they can write you a prescription to obtain the medication through your local (human) pharmacy. 

What Does Sucralfate Look Like?

Sucralfate is typically dispensed as a relatively large, white or pink oval tablet that is scored in the center. It is also available as a suspension, or liquid, although this formulation is less commonly prescribed by veterinarians. Sucralfate suspension has a light pink or white color. 

How Does Sucralfate for Dogs Work?

Sucralfate works primarily by coating a dog’s gastrointestinal tract. It will coat the surfaces of both ulcers and healthy gastrointestinal tissue, acting as a “band aid” that protects against stomach acid and other irritants. 

What Is Sucralfate Used For in Dogs?

Sucralfate is typically administered when a dog has gastrointestinal ulcers, or is thought to be at a high risk of developing gastrointestinal ulcers. Whether a dog has esophageal ulcers due to gastric reflux or is at risk of ulcers due to an overdose of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, sucralfate is often prescribed for its protective benefits on the gastrointestinal lining. It may also be used post-operatively in patients undergoing intestinal surgery or those who have been vomiting.

Common sucralfate uses include the treatment of: 

• Esophageal ulcers
• Esophagitis
• Stomach ulcers
• Intestinal ulcers
• Ingestion of toxins that may cause gastrointestinal ulceration
• Kidney failure (which may cause gastrointestinal ulcers)

How to Give Sucralfate to Dogs

Your veterinarian will advise you on how to administer your dog’s sucralfate, depending on which area of your dog’s gastrointestinal tract requires protection. When sucralfate is intended to act on the stomach or intestines, sucralfate tablets can usually be given intact (like a normal pill). They will break up in the stomach’s acidic environment and coat the walls of the stomach, as well as the remainder of the intestinal tract. 

If your dog has lesions in the esophagus, however, giving an intact tablet will offer no significant benefits. The tablet will not begin to dissolve until it reaches your dog’s stomach. Therefore, many veterinarians recommend a “sucralfate slurry” for dogs with known or potential esophageal ulcers. 

Giving sucralfate in a slurry involves crushing your dog’s sucralfate and then dissolving it in a small amount of water. After mixing this solution thoroughly, use a syringe to administer the mixture to your dog, by mouth.  

Sucralfate works best on an empty stomach. 

Sucralfate Side Effects in Dogs

Sucralfate side effects are rarely seen, because it remains in the intestines and is not absorbed into the bloodstream. In humans, the most commonly reported side effect is constipation. Allergic reactions may occur, but these are rare. 

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

Sucralfate can decrease the absorption of numerous medications, including digoxin, thyroxine, and some antibiotics. This effect is caused by sucralfate binding to the medication, preventing absorption. You can avoid this interaction by administering other medications two hours prior to your dog’s sucralfate dose. 

Sucralfate works best when your dog’s stomach is acidic. Therefore, it’s best to give sucralfate 30 minutes prior to any antacid medications that your pet may be receiving.

Sucralfate Dosage for Dogs

Sucralfate doses are based on the patient’s size and the condition that is being treated. Most dogs receive ½ to 1 tablet of sucralfate every 6-12 hours, but your veterinarian will determine the optimal dose and frequency for your dog. 

If your pet is on any medications (including vitamins or other over-the-counter supplements), talk to your veterinarian to determine the best dosing schedule for your dog. Careful consideration of medication timing can ensure that your dog receives the maximum benefits of both sucralfate and their other medications. 

What if My Dog Misses a Dose of Sucralfate?

If your dog misses a dose of sucralfate, continue giving the remaining doses as directed. There is no need to “double up” after a missed dose.  

Cost of Sucralfate for Dogs

Sucralfate is a relatively inexpensive medication, typically costing less than $1/dose. Generic forms may cost less than brand-name forms. 

Sucralfate Storage Instructions

Sucralfate tablets and sucralfate suspension stored at room temperature, on your counter or in a cabinet. No refrigeration is needed. 

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This fungus is localized to certain geographic areas, meaning that your dog’s risk of contracting Valley Fever is based largely on where you live. In areas where the fungus is present, a relatively high number of dogs will become infected at some point during their lifetime, but only a percentage will develop symptomatic signs that require treatment. 

What is Valley Fever in Dogs?

Valley Fever is a disease that is caused by the fungus Coccidioides immitis. While many infections with this fungus are asymptomatic (do not show symptoms) and clear up spontaneously, some infected dogs go on to develop Valley Fever. Signs of illness range from a mild upper respiratory tract infection to a wide-spread disease affecting the brain, bones, and other internal organs.

Traditionally, Valley Fever has been found primarily in Central and South America and the Southwestern United States. However, in recent years, the distribution of this fungus has begun to spread to other geographic areas, including as far north as Washington State. Talk to your veterinarian to determine whether Valley Fever is a concern in your geographic area.

How Do Dogs Get Valley Fever?

The fungus that causes Valley Fever, Coccidioides immitis, is found in the soil. It can remain dormant for long periods of time, even at high desert temperatures. When the soil is disturbed by weather, fungal spores can aerosolize (be released into the air) and be inhaled by people and pets. Dogs may also contract coccidiomycosis by digging in the dirt or using their noses to investigate rodent burrows.

Valley Fever is most common in young, male, large breed dogs, especially those that are permitted to roam freely outdoors (as opposed to being leash-walked on sidewalks). Valley Fever appears to be especially prevalent in Boxers and Doberman Pinschers.  

Is Valley Fever Contagious in Dogs?

While Valley Fever can infect people and other pets (including cats, horses, and even some exotic pets), it is not considered a contagious disease. Your dog cannot transmit Valley Fever to you or other household pets through coughing or contact, and you cannot transmit Valley Fever to your pets. 

Any dog infected with the disease came into direct contact with Coccidioides immitis.

Valley Fever Symptoms in Dogs

Valley Fever can be divided into two separate clinical forms: primary and disseminated. In primary Valley Fever, clinical signs of illness are confined to the lungs. In disseminated Valley Fever, however, the fungus spreads throughout the body. This results in clinical signs affecting a wide range of body systems. 

Valley Fever may be difficult to distinguish from kennel cough or pneumonia in dogs. 

Signs of primary Valley Fever include: 

• Cough
• Fever
• Lethargy
• Decreased appetite

Disseminated Valley Fever, in contrast, is a more severe condition. Affected dogs may demonstrate a variety of symptoms, depending on where the fungus has spread within their body. Signs of disseminated Valley Fever may include:

• Weight loss
• Nosebleed
• Seizures
• Altered mental state
• Pacing
• Ataxia (stumbling as if drunk)
• Limb weakness (limping) or paralysis
• Blindness 
• Eye inflammation
• Lameness
• Painful, swollen joints 
• Back or neck pain
• Swollen lymph nodes
• Non-healing skin wounds
• Draining wounds

While many infections with Coccidioides immitis are asymptomatic, symptomatic Valley Fever is a serious medical condition. Disseminated Valley Fever, in particular, requires urgent treatment. If a dog develops Valley Fever, signs of illness typically develop one to three weeks after exposure to the fungus. 

Diagnosing Valley Fever in Dogs

There are a number of tests used to diagnose Valley Fever in dogs, but each of these tests has limitations. In most cases, obtaining an accurate diagnosis will require a combination of tests. 

Your veterinarian will begin by performing a thorough physical examination of your dog. By examining your dog from nose to tail, including listening to your dog’s heart and lungs, your veterinarian will be able to zero in on particular areas of concern that may be causing your dog’s illness. 

Next, your veterinarian may perform a complete blood cell count (CBC), serum biochemistry profile, and radiographs (X-rays). These tests are used to begin narrowing down the list of potential causes for your dog’s signs of illness. Dogs with Valley Fever often have bloodwork changes that suggest infection. Radiographs of your dog’s chest may show changes that suggest the presence of fungal pneumonia.

If initial tests suggest a possibility of Valley Fever, your veterinarian will perform more targeted testing aimed at obtaining a definitive diagnosis. Your veterinarian may begin by testing samples of blood or other bodily fluids for Coccidioides immitis. While these tests can definitively confirm a diagnosis if the organism is found, false negatives are relatively common and may require further testing. 

Your veterinarian may also test your dog for antibodies against Coccidioides immitis. The presence of antibodies only indicates exposure, not active infection. However, this can provide an additional level of support for a diagnosis of Valley Fever. Your veterinarian may collect cell samples from any accessible lesions, for microscopic examination. 

In dogs with neurologic signs of Valley Fever (such as seizures), advanced brain imaging such as a CT scan or MRI may be necessary. 

In many cases, multiple tests are needed to make an educated determination of whether or not a dog’s illness is caused by Valley Fever. This is rarely a condition that can be diagnosed on the basis of a single laboratory test. 

How to Treat Valley Fever in Dogs

Valley Fever is treated with antifungal medications, which are typically administered on an outpatient basis. The duration of treatment will depend on the severity of your dog’s symptoms and response to therapy. Some cases can be treated with as few as six months of antifungal therapy, while other cases require lifelong antifungal treatment to prevent relapse. 

Some dogs can be completely cured with antifungal agents, while many are merely kept in remission through long-term therapy.

Medications for Valley Fever

There are four antifungal drugs used to treat Valley Fever in Dogs

• Fluconazole
• Itraconazole
• Ketoconazole
• Amphotericin B

Fluconazole, itraconazole, and ketoconazole are all oral medications, administered once or twice daily. 

Amphotericin B is an injectable medication that must be administered intravenously. Dogs typically visit their veterinary hospital for infusions several times weekly. 

General Cost of Treatment for Valley Fever

The cost of Valley Fever treatment can vary significantly, depending on a number of factors. Primarily disease that is diagnosed early will likely be less expensive to treat than advanced, disseminated Valley Fever. 

Additionally, medication costs are lower for smaller dogs than they are for larger dogs. In general, the medications used to treat Valley Fever in dogs typically cost several hundred dollars per month. 

How to Prevent Valley Fever in Dogs

Unfortunately, the only sure-fire way to avoid Valley Fever is to avoid living in or traveling to areas where the fungus is found. 

If you live in an area where Coccidioides immitis is found, however, you can reduce your dog’s risk by limiting their exposure to inhaled dust. Keep dogs primarily indoors and walk them outside on a leash, instead of allowing them to roam loose, dig in the dirt, and sniff in rodent holes. Avoid walking your dogs during periods of high winds, if possible. You can further reduce dust exposure by attempting to keep your lawn covered with grass or groundcover.

Although there is currently no vaccine available for Valley Fever, the University of Arizona is working to develop vaccines for use in both humans and pets. 

Related Conditions

• Fungal pneumonia
• Cryptococcosis
• Blastomycosis
• Aspergillosis

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Puppies typically open their eyes approximately 10 to 14 days after birth, sometimes one eye at a time, so it’s important to be patient.  

Keep reading to learn about when a puppy’s eyes develop, what to do during those first few days, and how to look out for any potential problems.

Puppy Eyes: How Do They Develop?

“Eye development for…canines is a late-stage process as their gestation is very short,” says Dr. Carol Osborne of Chagrin Falls Pet Clinic in Ohio. In humans, the gestation is around 9 months as opposed to a dog’s 60 days. 

At birth, a puppy’s eyes and their central nervous system—and thereby their optical nerves—are still developing. The eyelids remain shut to shield bright light and dust/dirt from entering the eye until development is complete.

Even after puppies open their eyes, their eyesight doesn’t fully develop until about 8 weeks of age.

When Do Puppies Open Their Eyes?

“A puppy’s eyes open at about 2 weeks, or 14 days of age,” says Dr. Osborne. During the transition period between when they first open their eyes to gaining full eyesight (at around 8 weeks old), you’ll likely see gray-blue hued eyeballs. 

Keep in mind that not all newborn puppies in the same litter open their eyes at the same time. Puppies of different breeds and sizes typically open their eyes halfway through their second week of life, but each individual pup develops at their own pace. Eye development, the weaning period, and behavioral development are among the main reasons why shelters and rescues adopt out puppies at two months old.  

Do not attempt to open a puppy’s eyes during the first few weeks of life—let nature take its course and allow for them to open on their own. If your pup’s eyes don’t open on their own, or if you notice any swelling or bulging underneath the eyelids or unusual discharge from the eyes, bring the puppy to a veterinarian. 

What Can Puppies See?

When puppies first open their eyes, the world is a blurry place, according to Osborne. “They are only able to detect shapes and movement.” At this stage, they can only identify other puppies and their mother. 

Caregivers may test the puppy’s eyesight by carefully tossing a cotton ball in the air to observe the puppy’s visual response. If the pup follows the motion of the hand and the ball going up and down, she can see.   

A puppy’s vision gradually becomes more acute as they get closer to the 2-month mark but, during the transition period, they are sensitive to bright light. It’s vital to keep them in a dimly lit space away from sunlight. 

Caring for Newborn Puppy Eyes

Typically, a mother dog cares for a puppy’s eyes. Osborne suggests “monitoring the mom and her litter several times each day” to be sure the mother is taking good care of her litter. If the mother is not present, Osborne recommends very gently wiping away any discharge with a warm, moist cloth or cotton ball. 

“Should a discharge and/or anything occur that looks abnormal before or after a puppy’s eyes open, contact your veterinarian and address it immediately to try to protect the puppy’s eyes and ensure normal vision,” she recommends. The first sign of something amiss is crusty build-up around the eyes. 

Potential Puppy Eye Problems

Fortunately, eye problems in puppies less common than eye problems in kittens but it is important to monitor your puppy’s eyes throughout development. 

According to Osborne, eye infections from bacterial contamination, viral issues, and eye injuries can generally be eliminated by keeping a tidy environment for the puppies. It also helps if the mother is up to date on her vaccinations.  

Puppies can be born with congenital defects in their eyes. Some of these may affect their vision while others make the eye look different but have no impact on function. Occasionally, puppies are born blind. As they grow these dogs can have a relatively normal life in the right home but may require additional attention and nurturing as puppies. 

Trauma such as scratches from other puppies are common. If a puppy is rubbing or scratching at her eye or is unable to keep the eye fully open she should be evaluated by a veterinarian. Scratches can cause cuts on the surface of the eye, called corneal ulcers, that require medication. 

Many dog breeds are known to carry genetic eye problems including Pit Bulls, Labradors, Irish Setters, Australian Shepherds, French Bulldogs, American Bulldogs, and others. If you purchase your puppy from a breeder, make sure that the parents passed their Companion Animal Eye Registry (CAER) examination for any relevant diseases.

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With insights from four veterinarians (including a board-certified veterinary dermatologist), we’ve unpacked what you need to know about cat chin acne, including treatment and prevention options. 

Since acne may be a symptom of an underlying problem—or may not even be true acne—it’s always a good idea to get in touch with your veterinarian if you’re concerned.

Can Cats Get Acne?

Yes, cats can get acne. In fact, it resembles the type that people often get. It usually takes the form of blackheads and whiteheads under the chin, but can also extend to the lips and muzzle. 

Though it’s not as common, acne can sometimes emerge on other parts of a cat’s body. “Cats can have other dermatologic conditions elsewhere on the body which may look similar, or be from the same cause,” says Dr. Sasha Gibbons, associate veterinarian at Just Cats Veterinary Hospital in Stamford, Connecticut. 

Cats of any age can develop acne, but some veterinarians say it’s most prevalent during middle age. And while acne can become aggressive in any breed, Persians and Himalayans are at an increased risk of idiopathic facial dermatitis and primary seborrhea, which are considered extreme forms.

The veterinary community is not precisely sure how common cat chin acne is. Some veterinarians say it’s a relatively common condition while others say it’s not as prevalent. This uncertainty is partly due to a scarcity of research on the topic. 

“While this is a well-recognized problem, it is poorly studied,” says Dr. Elizabeth A. Layne, a board-certified veterinary dermatologist with BluePearl Specialty + Emergency Pet Hospital in Midvale, Utah. And since many cats have very mild signs, pet parents are less likely to take them to the veterinarian for an examination, Layne adds. So cases go unreported. 

Cat Chin Acne: What Does it Look Like?

Acne on a cat’s chin usually starts out as mild black crusts and debris in the fur, and blackheads on the skin, says Layne. Blackheads form “when the hair follicles are plugged with shed skin cells and skin oil.” 

A single cat pimple or even a full-blown breakout can look like dirt. “Chin acne tends to look like the common black or whiteheads that humans get, like black material stuck to the fur and skin, often with little discomfort shown by the cat,” says Dr. Klaus Earl Loft, a veterinarian at Angell Animal Medical Center in Boston. Some cats, Loft says, may experience a single breakout, “but many others will have recurring symptoms.” 

Though most cases of cat chin acne are mild, they can progress, becoming “inflamed with red bumps, pus, crusting and hair loss developing. With deep infection and inflammation, the skin can become swollen, painful, and thickened,” says Dr. Lisa Goin, a veterinarian at Heart + Paw in their Glen Mills, Pennsylvania location.

Cat Chin Mites vs. Acne

Mites are small organisms that can sometimes find a home on our pets—and cats are no exception. While some cats may not show any symptoms of a mite infestation, others may develop scabbing, bumps, itching and redness, which some confuse with cat chin acne. Differentiating between the two can be difficult, as some mites are invisible to the naked eye. Work with your vet to get a proper diagnosis. Doing so will ensure you get proper treatment for your kitty.

Causes of Cat Chin Acne

Veterinarians can’t definitively point to what causes cat chin acne, but they have some theories. “Like with humans it is probably a complex interaction between skin cell turnover, skin oil composition, bacteria on the skin surface, and other unidentified factors,” says Layne.

Here we take a deeper dive into some of the most common theories of what’s behind cat chin acne.

Overproduction of the Body’s Natural Oils 

The sebaceous glands generate sebum, which Loft says is a “natural, oil moisturizer.” When these glands generate an excess of sebum (a condition called seborrhea), hair follicles can become clogged. Acne occurs primarily on a cat’s chin, experts theorize, because hair follicle growth rate and skin turnover is comparatively slower in this area, says Loft.

Most cases of seborrhea are secondary—meaning that they’re the result of an underlying disease or condition. These may include hypothyroidism, fungal infections, allergies, or parasites.

Poor Self-Grooming Habits

Self-grooming serves a number of important functions for cats, one of which is to distribute sebum evenly throughout the body. When cats don’t groom adequately, oil can accumulate in the hair follicles and become clogged. However, we don’t know whether cats develop acne because of poor grooming habits or whether chin acne makes cats less inclined to groom themselves.

Plastic Food and Water Bowls

There’s an association between cat chin acne and plastic bowls, says Gibbons. There are two reasons for this, one of which is the bowl’s composition. “In general, when compared to glass or stainless steel bowls, plastic food bowls tend to have rougher edges, which can irritate the surface of the skin of the chin.”

Plastic can also harbor bacteria especially in the tiny cracks that form over time. “Once the skin barrier is weakened, the rough edges of the plastic can then introduce bacteria into the open wound,” Gibbons says. 

Genetics

Persian cats are known to develop primary seborrhea, which unlike secondary seborrhea, is hereditary and much less common. Hallmarks of this condition are scaly, greasy smelly skin and hair, infection, and inflammation.

Persian and Himalayan cats are also more likely to develop idiopathic (of an unknown cause) facial dermatitis, an uncommon skin disease that occurs primarily in younger cats. Sometimes referred to as “dirty face syndrome” it appears as black waxy material on the face, with emphasis on the chin and around the eyes.

Since diseases and disorders like fungal infections, mite infestations, and some autoimmune diseases may be at the root of cat chin acne, take your cat in for a consultation if the lesions become painful or itchy, recommends Layne. “And because acne only occurs on the face, if a cat has sores or crusts on other parts of the body, a visit to the vet is definitely warranted.”

Cat Chin Acne Treatment

Treatment depends on the type and severity of the acne and whether it’s related to an underlying disease or disorder. Here are some general thoughts on how to get rid of cat chin acne.

Cat Chin Acne Treatment for Mild Cases

If the acne is in the mild stage, there’s only crusting, and your cat is comfortable, treatment isn’t necessary, says Layne. 

However, “If you object to the appearance of the crusts and black heads, you can use warm compresses to clean it off. Sometimes wipes containing disinfectant and degreasing ingredients like salicylic acid, chlorhexidine, or acetic acid can be helpful,” she says. “Many of these are available over-the-counter. Be sure to check the package label to be certain it is safe for cats and avoid their eyes.” If you are unsure, consult your veterinarian.

For superficial oil buildups, use topical benzoyl peroxide or antiseborrheic wipes, or mild shampoo to flush out the hair follicles, says Loft. Additionally, “Many cats can benefit from a Clindamycin (antibiotic) gel or liquid preparation, which veterinarians can prescribe and help administer.”

Severe and Infected Cat Chin Acne Treatment

Bad cat acne typically requires a different regimen. Once the acne has progressed to the point where a cat starts scratching and the pimples are bleeding and oozing, it can be tough to try to apply topical treatments, says Layne. “In those cases oral antibiotics are usually needed, along with oral anti-inflammatory medications. As the lesions heal, then wipes or cream might be feasible.”

Some cats have just a few episodes of cat chin acne during their lives, while others have chronic issues, Layne says. “For these cats, long-term oral medication to control the inflammation is often needed.”

Other Cat Chin Acne Treatments

Cats afflicted with acne can also benefit from a fatty acid supplement, especially one containing Omega 3 fatty acids. Not only can Fatty acids help maintain a shiny coat, but they have anti-inflammatory properties which can benefit the skin. Ask your veterinarian for product recommendations and read the product instructions carefully before administering it to your cat. 

 “In some cases, keeping hair clipped short can help the condition resolve,” Loft adds.

For a proper diagnosis and to rule out other issues, it’s a good idea to check with your veterinarian. For example, “If there is significant itching and skin trauma, then the area should be checked for other similar looking conditions like demodex [mites],” says Loft. 

One practice to avoid is popping feline acne, as it can be painful, irritate the affected area, and spread infection. 

Can You Prevent Cat Chin Acne?

You can’t prevent cat acne if it’s the product of genetics, a virus, or allergies, says Gibbons. With many cases however, there are a couple of things you can do to help reduce future breakouts. 

Your cat doesn’t need treatment until she has an episode, says Layne. “If your cat has had an episode or two, when the active lesions are healed, wiping with disinfectant and degreasing wipes a few times per week might prevent, or at least reduce the severity of, flare-ups.”

Products with phytosphingosine can help reduce recurrence by providing a healthy skin barrier, says Goin. 

Try replacing your cat’s plastic food and water dishes with nonporous, smooth-surfaced dishes made of steel or glass. Then, wash them daily, say Loft. “This will reduce the amount of bacteria on your cat’s chin and may resolve the acne issue, too.”

And since grooming is essential to proper sebum distribution, make sure your cat can adequately perform this important behavior. Senior cats and those with arthritis, for example, may especially have difficulty with mobility. If this is the case, ask your veterinarian for guidance.

A general practice veterinarian or veterinary dermatologist can develop a preventive maintenance plan for severely affected cats, offers Layne. “A specialist can help determine if there are specific underlying causes that can be managed.”

Cat Chin Acne FAQs

Can cats get acne?

Yes, cats can get acne. In fact, it resembles the type that people often get. It usually forms as blackheads and whiteheads under the chin, but can also extend to the lips and muzzle.

Why do cats get chin acne?

Experts believe that cats can get acne for a number of reasons, though there is no one accepted cause. The most common theories point to a genetic predisposition, over-production of the cat’s natural body oils, poor hygiene and self-grooming habits, and plastic food dishes.

How do you treat cat chin acne?

Acne in cats can range from mild to severe. For the most mild cases, consider applying a hot compress or purchasing an over-the-counter cat product that contains acne fighting medication like salicylic acid. For more severe cases, or if your cat’s acne becomes infected, consult your veterinarian.

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More than 15 flea species have been found in domestic dogs over the years—and it turns out canines may actually be the perfect hosts for bringing flea-borne diseases into homes [1].

We all know that fleas can cause itchiness and rashes, and that they’re incredibly tough to get rid of. But can fleas kill a dog? Can these pesky parasites actually lead to a dog’s death? We asked a veterinary expert to set the record straight.

Can Fleas Kill a Dog?

“The short answer is yes,” says Dr. Tyra Davis Brown, who practices at Hammond Animal Hospital and Pet Lodge in Louisiana, “and I’ve seen it happen in a patient.”

What Brown is referring to is a dangerous condition called flea anemia, which can actually lead to a dog’s death if left untreated. 

In the warm South, where there are rarely hard freezes to kill off outdoor fleas, Brown says they are common year-round. At work, she saw a group of small dogs who continued to come in covered with fleas—even after Brown brought it up to the owner multiple times. On one visit, she noticed that one of the flea-ridden dogs was feeling sick. Brown ordered blood work, which revealed severe anemia. She advised the owner to address the flea issue immediately. When the dog returned a few weeks later, the fleas were still there, and his blood work was even worse. 

Brown referred him to a specialist, but the dog died shortly afterward. “It was the fleas,” she says. “There was nothing else going on with him medically, except for the severe flea infestation. His anemia was a direct result of that.”

“We don’t see it often,” Brown says of flea anemia that’s severe enough to kill a dog, “however, as in this case, it can and does happen.”

And anemia isn’t the only concern when it comes to flea-borne diseases and dogs. Fleas can also cause Bartonella—an infection from bacteria that fleas may carry. While treatable with antibiotics, Bartonella that goes unaddressed can lead to fatal heart inflammation in dogs, Brown says, and it can even transmit to humans, too.

A Closer Look at Flea Anemia

In dogs, anemia occurs when the body lacks sufficient red blood cells, hemoglobin, or both. It can be caused by any number of diseases, injuries, or conditions—including blood loss due to fleas. That’s because, as parasites, fleas don’t just bite and cause an itchy feeling. Each adult flea actively sucks blood from their host several times every day. The more fleas there are on a dog, the more blood it’s losing. And as we all know, sufficient blood is crucial to a healthy body.

“If you have parasites constantly sucking your blood, your body can compensate for a while,” Brown says. “But after that, if you don’t have enough blood, things are going to shut down. Your cells will start to die. Your immune system can get out of whack.”

She says flea anemia is particularly dangerous in small dogs. “A big dog could get anemia from fleas, but the likelihood of death is slimmer compared to a tinier dog,” she says. The reason is simple—big dogs have more blood, so it’s easier for their bodies to survive losing some. Little dogs have much less blood to spare.

According to Brown, the symptoms of anemia to look for in dogs include 

• Pale gums (instead of the usual bubblegum-pink color)
• Increased fatigue and loss of stamina
• Loss of appetite
• Panting or gasping for breath
• Some dogs may also begin seeking warmth in ways they didn’t before

If you notice any fleas on your dog, Brown suggests getting them treated immediately. “When you see one flea on your dog, you should know there are probably a hundred more,” she says. And if you can’t get those fleas under control quickly—or if you spot any symptoms of anemia—bring them to a veterinarian immediately. 

Other Flea Diseases

While other diseases fleas carry or conditions they cause may not lead directly to a dog’s death, they can still make a pup sick or very uncomfortable. 

Flea allergy dermatitis is a common cause of skin disease in dogs. It happens when the body reacts to the saliva that fleas inject when they bite. “All it can take is one flea to set the skin off,” Brown says. “And if that one flea becomes a hundred fleas, or even 10 fleas, the reaction is going to be worse.” In some dogs, a single flea bite can cause itching for days, and may eventually result in hair loss down the middle of the back to the base of the tail. 

Fleas can also cause tapeworms in dogs. This happens when a dog is licking itself and swallows a flea that’s harboring a tapeworm. A severe tapeworm infection can cause death in puppies or dogs with other illnesses. If you see any signs of tapeworms in your dog’s feces, be sure to contact your veterinarian right away.

Flea Prevention Tips

“Every animal should be on some type of [flea] preventative 12 months out of the year—especially if you live in a warmer climate where you don’t get hard freezes a lot,” Brown says. There are numerous options out there, from topical treatments to oral medications. Just be sure that whatever you use explicitly states it will combat fleas.

The CDC suggests limiting how much time your pet spends outside, giving frequent baths, and regularly checking for fleas [2]. It also recommends cleaning pet bedding often with soap and water.

Brown says it’s vital to vacuum your home at least every other day and immediately empty the bag. You should also sweep and mop bare floors, because eggs can hide in the cracks between planks. 

“We can’t make fleas vanish entirely,” Brown adds, “but you can keep them out of your home and off your pet.”

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Therefore, learning to identify fleas before they can cause destruction is a valuable skill, but finding these tiny terrors is tricky. Not only can these parasites move rapidly and without detection, the symptoms they create are similar to those found in diseases not caused by fleas. 

To help take the guesswork out of flea identification, we’ve compiled a guide that shows you how to tell if your dog has fleas, how to get rid of them once you do find them, and what you can do to prevent future occurrences. Always start a conversation with your veterinarian if you suspect your dog has fleas.

Identifying Fleas: The Basics

Once you can identify fleas on your dog, you’re better positioned to provide relief from the itchiness and discomfort, and to prevent health problems—like hot spots and bacterial infections—from occurring. 

What Do Fleas Look Like?

Finding fleas on dogs isn’t easy. Not only are these reddish-brown parasites the approximate size of a sesame seed, they have a flattened body that lets them move quickly and stay out of sight. Fleas are wingless insects, so while they can’t fly, they have a long pair of hind legs that gives them athletic-grade jumping abilities. They’re able to maintain a solid grip on dogs because of the rows of comb-like, spiny structures on their legs, back, and mouth.

So how do you look for something so undetectable? It’s easier to look for flea excrement (flea dirt) than actual fleas, veterinarians say. You can accomplish this with a flea comb,” says Dr. Susan O’Bell, service director at Angell Animal Medical Center in Boston.

“This looks like coffee grounds or dirt on the comb as you sift through the fur or hair, especially down the back toward the base of the tail,” she says. 

Flea Eggs on Dogs

Flea eggs are even more difficult to see than adult fleas. “They are about the size of a grain of salt though oval and off-white in color. They can be on the coat but can be mistaken for dry skin,” says Dr. George Melillo, co-founder and chief veterinary officer at Heart + Paw, headquartered in Philadelphia.

By using a flea comb to gently push the fur away from the skin, you’ll be able to get a closer look, says O’Bell, who is board certified in veterinary internal medicine. 

Flea eggs don’t remain on dogs for very long, though. “The majority of flea eggs will fall off a dog shortly after they are laid and, if they fall onto warm carpets, blankets, or bedding, can easily hatch, with subsequent fleas finding their way back to your dog,” O’Bell says.

Flea Bites on Dogs

Flea bites on dogs appear as very small, raised red dots, says O’Bell. “They are usually smaller than other insect bites though they can be easily inflamed, and appear larger, once a dog scratches the itch.” 

The size of the bite can vary, however. “Some dogs will have a much stronger itch reaction than others, which often will result in a much larger and more visible red area,” O’Bell adds.

Signs of Fleas on Dogs

Aside from confirming the presence of fleas, flea dirt, or flea eggs on dogs, there are some other signs you can watch for. Since these signs can be present in unrelated conditions, we recommend contacting your veterinarian if you notice anything out of the ordinary.

Scratching and Biting

Excessive scratching or biting at the fur is one of the most common signs of fleas on dogs, says Melillo. “Dogs scratch on occasion just like people do. If the scratching or chewing at the fur becomes unusual, fleas should be considered.” 

It doesn’t necessarily take a flea infestation to cause potent itchiness, either. “Some dogs will have hypersensitivity to fleas and one or two fleas will cause intense itchy skin,” adds Melillo. 

Skin Wounds or Hair Loss

All that repeated scratching and biting can damage your dog’s skin. “Often, especially with dogs that have flea allergies, the skin could quickly become quite red, raw, and experience fur loss,” says Melillo.

If these hot spots (also called acute moist dermatitis) become inflamed and infected, your veterinarian may prescribe a course of antibiotics and steroids. 

Hair loss on the lower back, belly, and thighs can also be a sign of fleas on dogs.

Small Red Spots

Tiny, red, raised spots on the skin are a sign of flea bites on dogs, says Melillo. “They are small and often best seen in areas where the fur is thinner (like on the belly) or at the base of the tail.” Flea bites can also become inflamed and appear larger in some dogs.

The Presence of Flea Dirt

Not to be confused with flea eggs, flea dirt—flea excrement containing the dog’s digested blood—is more commonly found on dogs than live fleas. “If you take some of the flea dirt and place it on a wet paper towel, the flea dirt will appear reddish brown. It is a sign of fleas,” says Melillo.

Pale Gums

Pale pink to white gums are one of several signs of fleas on dogs. Because fleas feast on their host’s blood, a flea infestation can result in significant blood loss, and consequently pale gums. Healthy gums are salmon pink, shiny, and moist. If you notice pale gums and suspect fleas, contact a veterinarian quickly or bring your dog to an emergency hospital for treatment.

Weight Loss

Fleas carry tapeworms, a parasite that grows internally when a dog inadvertently ingests a flea. This usually happens during self-grooming, as the dog attempts to alleviate the itchiness and discomfort. Dogs with tapeworms might experience some unexpected weight loss or diarrhea. You may also notice the presence of tapeworm segments around the anus, which look like sesame seeds.

Does Your Dog Have a Flea Allergy or an Unrelated Skin Condition?

Though flea allergy in dogs is a common cause of skin disease in dogs, there are other conditions—like food allergies, allergies to pollen or mold, dry skin, or fungal infections—that might be the source of your dog’s symptoms. So while looking for the above signs can be helpful, you need to confirm the actual presence of fleas, flea dirt, or flea eggs to be certain. 

This is why it’s essential to consult your veterinarian if you suspect your dog has fleas. “The veterinarian will also assess if there is an allergic component to the discomfort or even a secondary bacterial infection that can be a result of fleas,” says Melilo. “Many times a dog will require medications to treat these secondary skin diseases while also tackling the flea problem.”

How to Get Rid of Fleas

In order to get rid of fleas, it’s important to treat your dog—and any other pets in your home—as well as your environment, says Melillo. “If you only treat the dog, without treating the home, you are unlikely to ever resolve the flea problem.”

How to Kill Fleas on Dogs

To kill fleas on dogs, start by talking to your veterinarian. “It’s always best to discuss treatment plans with your veterinarian as the best approach will differ according to the individual dog and his or her home environment,” says O’Bell. 

Generally, though, if you suspect fleas, the most important thing you can do is to treat your dog and any other pets in your home with a veterinary recommended product, says O’Bell. “These products are, broadly speaking, very safe and highly effective.”

Your veterinarian may suggest a dual attack plan to address both adult fleas and flea eggs. Tablets or chews containing a chemical compound like nitenpyram function as a fast-acting insecticide that kills adult fleas. These products will only last for one day, however, so it is important to also use a flea preventive that is long-acting and will kill multiple life stages of fleas, from eggs to adults. There are veterinary approved flea preventives that last from one to three months to ensure that any new fleas that jump onto your dog are quickly killed. Products with insect growth regulators (IGRs), an insecticide that prevents flea eggs from maturing, are available for dogs in oral and topical form. Prescription flea medication is generally much more effective and safer than over-the-counter products.

Ask your veterinarian if giving your dog a lukewarm bath might be beneficial. There are dog shampoos on the market formulated to kill fleas, as well as calm irritated, itchy skin with ingredients like oatmeal.  

How to Kill Fleas in the Home

If your dog has a flea infestation, killing the fleas on your dog won’t solve the problem. It’s important to thoroughly clean your home and your dog’s environment. Here are some tips for killing fleas in your home.

Vacuum regularly. Vacuuming has been shown to be effective in eliminating fleas in all life stages, researchers at Ohio State University say. Experts recommend vacuuming every day if possible, or at least every other day. Focus on hidden areas like closets and crevices, as well as open rugs and carpets. Vacuuming “underneath cushions and under pieces of furniture should all be included in your cleaning plan,” says O’Bell.  

Use a vacuum with good suction, and toss the canister or bag with the remnants into your trash container (then seal it) to prevent eggs from hatching. Additionally, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency says the hot steam and soap from a steam cleaner can kill fleas in all stages of their life cycle.

Wash bedding and upholstery. Find bedding, towels, upholstery covers, toys, or any items your dog spends a lot of time with and toss them in the washing machine. Using the hottest cycle possible, wash these items with laundry detergent or bleach, then place them in the dryer. Consider tossing and replacing items if the flea infestation is extreme.

Products with IRG (used to kill flea eggs) are also available in spray form to use on your pet’s bed. Just make sure to follow directions to keep your pet safe.

Discourage pets from sleeping on furniture. It’s best to keep dogs off furniture, at least until you’ve had a chance to eradicate the flea problem, recommends O’Bell.  “Eggs that hatch can fall on these surfaces and lead to more generations of fleas in a relatively short period of time.”  

How to Prevent Fleas on Dogs

It’s much easier and cheaper to prevent fleas than to eradicate them, especially since fleas reproduce quickly. Here are a few tips that may spare you and your dog aggravation.

Use a Flea Preventative on a Regular Basis

The center of any flea prevention plan is the regular use of a veterinary-recommended preventative product.  “Using monthly prevention against fleas is the best way to eliminate flea allergy in the first place,” says O’Bell.  

Prescription preventatives are generally the most reliable, says Melillo. These come in the form of oral chews and pills, topicals, and collars. “I tend to recommend oral monthly parasiticides,” he explains. Some dogs that are allergic to oral medications can also use flea collars as a prevention measure. Talk to your veterinarian about the option that is best for your pet.

While some over-the-counter (OTC) products can be effective, Melillo says that fleas can develop resistance to some products. If you do use an OTC product, be sure it’s from a trustworthy source. “I have seen counterfeit products my clients obtained online. Astute veterinary technicians found misinformation on what appeared to be otherwise a replica of a product label,” warns O’Bell.

Whether you use a prescription or OTC preventative, the bottom line is to use a product that has been recommended by your veterinarian.

Develop a Grooming Routine With Your Dog

Using your flea comb, sift through your dog’s hair or fur to find fleas, flea dirt, or flea eggs. If you’re not up to the task, find a professional pet groomer you can take your dog to on a regular basis. These pros are trained to find fleas, and are a good alternative if you don’t know how to tell if your dog has fleas.

Keep It Clean

The same practices used to kill fleas—vacuuming regularly and cleaning bedding—also help to prevent and control them. Fleas don’t just live indoors, however. Since wild animals like raccoons, coyotes, and stray cats can also carry fleas, veterinarians recommend limiting your dog’s contact with them. Or consider humane wildlife deterrents, like installing fencing or placing netting on food plants.

Safety Precautions When Using Flea Products

Check with your veterinarian before using any products containing pesticides since they can interfere with certain medications.

Also avoid using dog flea products on cats, veterinarians warn. The pesticide class pyrethrins, for example, is highly toxic to cats. 

“Similarly if you have any exotic species in the house who interact with your cats and dogs, check with your veterinarian as some exotic species can be uniquely sensitive to certain ingredients,” says O’Bell.

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“Dogs have evolved to have an affinity for sweet flavors, so pumpkin is the perfect treat since it’s sweet without added sugar,” says Dr. TB Thompson, a veterinarian in Phoenix, Arizona. 

Pumpkin is a fun ingredient to include in homemade dog treats and can be used as a digestive aid to treat ailments like diarrhea and constipation. And unlike some digestive supplements, which your veterinarian may prescribe for the same symptoms, your pup will actually enjoy eating canned pumpkin for dogs.

Is Canned Pumpkin Good for Dogs? 

According to veterinarians, plain, canned pumpkin for dogs is good for dogs. It contains a mixture of vitamins, like vitamin A, E and C, as well as iron and potassium.

“Canned pumpkin (or pumpkin puree) can add an extra source of fiber for dogs and can be mixed in with their regular dog food,” says Dr. Anthony Hall, a veterinarian with Private Vet Consulting. 

He stresses, however, that it’s important not to mistake canned pumpkin for pumpkin pie filling or mix, which can cause diarrhea in dogs. It’s also important not to give your dog too much canned pumpkin, as excessive fiber can lead to constipation. 

Can I Give My Dog Pumpkin Every Day?

Hall doesn’t recommend giving dogs canned pumpkin on a daily basis. While healthy dogs can eat canned pumpkin occasionally without safety concerns, he says canned pumpkin for dogs should only be served as a special treat or as relief for an upset stomach. 

“Dogs should be fine with regular dog food and generally do not need any supplementation with a nutritionally balanced commercial diet,” says Hall.

And dogs with particularly sensitive stomachs might need to avoid canned pumpkin entirely if it causes excessive gas or diarrhea. “Check with your vet before giving [canned pumpkin] to diabetic dogs, as it could alter blood glucose control if you feed it to your dog regularly,” Hall says.

Canned Pumpkin Benefits for Dogs

Given appropriately, canned pumpkin may help ease the symptoms of upset stomach in dogs. The fiber in pumpkin will pull moisture from your pup’s body and can help stool soften and pass, says Dr. Evelyn Kass, a veterinarian in Phoenix and founder of Pet Nutrition Doctor. Fiber can also help to support a healthy microbiome in your dog’s gut.

And when it comes to using canned pumpkin for dog constipation, Kass warns that if your dog is constipated because of dehydration, it’s important to rehydrate before giving the pumpkin. “Hydration is always the first therapy for constipation,” she says. 

Canned Pumpkin for Dogs: 9 Ways to Use It

Canned pumpkin can be given to your pup in a variety of ways. Here are some suggestions on how to incorporate it into your dog’s diet:

Add it to their food. Plain canned pumpkin for dogs can be used as a food topper or can simply be mixed into your pet’s food.

Incorporate it into a tasty frozen treat. Hall suggests mixing pumpkin with plain yogurt in a 1-to-1 ratio and placing it in the freezer. After 24 hours, take it out and serve it to your pup.

Make pumpkin dog cookies. Mix canned pumpkin with flour and peanut butter (2 cups flour, 1 cup pumpkin, ½ cup peanut butter) and bake at 375 degrees Fahrenheit for 10-15 minutes. Just make sure the peanut butter is free of xylitol, an artificial sweetener that is toxic to dogs.

Create a squeezable treat. “Thin a little canned pumpkin with water and put it into a new/clean silicon tube used for carrying travel shampoo,” says Thompson. Let your pup lick the pumpkin out as you squeeze the tube, which can be perfect for training!

Stuff it in a Kong. Mix canned pumpkin with dry kibble and stuff it into a Kong toy. Freeze for a few hours, then let your pup spend some time un-stuffing the Kong.

Bake some fruity dog-friendly snacks. Combine canned pumpkin with flour, eggs and banana (3 cups flour, 2 eggs, 1 cup pumpkin and 1 banana) and bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes for a delicious and fiber-filled canine snack.

Make a doggie soup. Mix canned pumpkin with a little warm, low-sodium chicken broth to make a nice “soup” to warm up your dog on a cold day. 

Try a pup-kin spice latte. Blend 1 cup canned pumpkin with 1 cup light coconut milk and a dash of ground cinnamon and ginger for a fun treat (see inspiration from this recipe).

Dog Pumpkin Puree Recipe 

In addition to the above options, clinical pet nutritionist Johnna Devereaux shares her favorite canned pumpkin dog treat, which also sneaks in some extra veggies:

Ingredients:

1. 3/4 cup pumpkin purée 
2. 1 banana
3. 1 egg
4. 2 cups coconut flour
5. 1/4 cup oats
6. 1/4 pound cut green beans

Directions:

1. Combine all ingredients into a bowl and mix until smooth.
2. Grease a baking pan and place green beans across the pan.
3. Scoop a blob of mixture on top of the beans, then bake at 350 degrees for 15-18 minutes. Let cool before serving.

Where to Buy Canned Pumpkin for Dogs

When looking for where to buy the best canned pumpkin for dogs, you can usually head to your local grocery store. Canned pumpkin is typically housed in an aisle with baking supplies like flour, sugar and canned fruit. You can also purchase it in bulk through stores like Costco and Sam’s Club, as well as on Amazon or at your local health food stores.

It’s always good to have plain, canned pumpkin on hand for upset stomach or diarrhea in dogs.

When purchasing canned pumpkin for dogs, it’s important to make sure pumpkin is the only ingredient on the can. “If it contains any other additives or spices, then do not use it,” says Hall.

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Dog aging and growth differs from that of a human child and the common belief that one dog year is equal to seven human years isn’t quite accurate. Let’s take a look at a dog’s typical growth trajectory, when they stop growing, and how factors like breed and genetics play into the equation. 

Dog Growth: An Overview

While it is obvious that dogs grow and age more quickly to humans, dog growth and development is not just a shortened version of human growth. That is why comparing 7 human years to 1 dog year is not considered an accurate representation of how dogs age. 

A recent paper that analyzed the genome of over 100 Labrador Retrievers from birth through old age revealed that 1-year-old dogs are genetically much older than we previously thought. In fact, they concluded that the DNA of a 1 year old Lab is genetically equivalent to a 30 year old human, suggesting that puppies age more quickly than human children. 

The research also showed that a 7-week-old puppy was similar to a 9-month-old human baby. As time passes and the dog gets older, however, the rate of aging in dogs slows down.

It is important to realize the comparison between human aging and dog aging is nonlinear and not a perfect comparison. For instance, a 1-year-old large breed dog is still growing and experiencing hormonal and body composition changes that are more comparable to an adolescent human than a 30 year old. This highlights that we still have a lot to learn about canine growth and aging. 

When Do Dogs Stop Growing?

Generally, dogs stop growing between 6-18 months depending on their size and breed. Dogs are considered to be done growing when the growth plates at the ends of their bones close, meaning that the bones cannot grow any longer. 

Dogs may still pack on additional fat and muscle mass after their bones are done growing, but this does not impact when a dog is considered to be full grown. 

All puppies develop fairly rapidly and at the same rate until they are about 6 months of age, when differences of growth and maturation are noticed in different sized puppies. Cessation of growth in dogs is influenced heavily by a dog’s size. In general, big dogs take longer to finish growing than small dogs. This makes sense, as a Great Dane is a bigger animal than a Chihuahua, and it simply takes longer to make bigger bones in large-breed dogs. 

When Do Small Dogs Stop Growing?

Small and toy breed dogs tend to stop growing around 6-8 months of age. 

Small breeds are considered any dogs that have an adult weight of 30 pounds or less. This includes dogs that are as small as a 5-pound Maltese and as big as an adult 25-pound Corgi. 

When Do Large Dogs Stop Growing?

Large breed dogs typically stop growing between 12-18 months of age. Between 6-8 months of age, large breed puppies have a lanky look to their bodies and are awkward and clumsy—which is frankly adorable.

Large breeds are considered any adult dogs that weigh more than 50 pounds. Large breed puppies, as already noted, grow more slowly because they have to make bigger body parts. 

Growth Based on Breed

In both categories of small dogs and large dogs there is a fairly wide range of adult weights and sizes. This wider weight range will contribute to some variability between when dogs—even in the same category—finish growing.

For example, a 75-pound Labrador Retriever and a 150-pound Great Dane are both members of the large breed category. However, a Labrador will finish growing between 12-18 months of age, and a Great Dane can take upwards of 2 years to finish growing. 

Furthermore, there are medium sized dogs that weigh between 30-50 pounds that don’t fit into small or large breed categories. Medium size dogs tend to mature by 12 months of age. But every breed is different, so be sure to check with your veterinarian or breeder to determine a more accurate idea of when your puppy will finish growing. 

When Is a Dog Considered an Adult?

All dogs are considered to be adult dogs once they hit their one year birthday, even though large breed dogs take longer than one year to finish growing. 

If you have a medium or small breed dog, your dog is considered to be an adult by the time they are one year of age. If you haven’t already transitioned your dog to adult dog food by one year of age, this is the time to do it. If you have a large or giant breed puppy, ask your veterinarian about the best time to switch from large breed puppy food to adult large breed food. 

Dogs are considered adults when they have reached physical, sexual, and emotional maturity, and have gone through puberty and adolescence. Emotional maturity will result in more focused, less distractible  behavior, increased consistent obedience to commands, and a more calm demeanor.  

Keeping an Eye on Your Dog’s Growth: Why It’s Important

While puppies will go through growth spurts just like human children, it is important that your puppy grows at a steady, regular rate to avoid medical conditions, such as panosteitis, a painful condition that resembles growth pains in growing children. It is also important for your puppy to grow at a regular rate, not too fast or too slow, to reduce the likelihood of other developmental orthopedic disorders, including Osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) and Hypertrophic osteodystrophy (HOD). 

Controlling your puppy’s rate of growth is best done under the supervision of a veterinarian, who can monitor your puppy’s growth and development, and suggest the proper nutrition and exercise specific to your dog and your family’s lifestyle. 

To avoid disorders associated with rapid growth, avoid overfeeding your puppy. If you have a large breed puppy, you can further ensure joint health by feeding an appropriate amount of large breed puppy formula food, which is specifically formulated to support healthy growth and development in large breed puppies. 

While it can be bittersweet to watch your puppy grow up (where does all the time go?!?), knowing when they will reach maturity and how to care for them in the meantime will contribute to a lifetime of health and wellbeing. 

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What Is Limited-Ingredient Dog Food?

A limited-ingredient diet (LID) generally contains one protein source (such as lamb) and one carbohydrate source (such as brown rice). These diets may have more ingredients than just a protein and a carbohydrate, but they limit added ingredients and avoid fillers that may be found in traditional dog foods, such as corn, wheat, and soy.

Limited-ingredient diet dog foods come in both dry kibble and canned forms, and some companies even offer limited-ingredient treats or freeze-dried options. Some limited-ingredient diets are sold over the counter at pet supply stores or by online retailers, while others require a prescription from your veterinarian. As long as they are labeled as complete and balanced according to the Association of American of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) guidelines (look for this on the label), limited-ingredient diets can be fed as your dog’s sole diet. 

The term “limited ingredient” is not regulated, so there’s no threshold for the number of ingredients or limitations on what types of ingredients can be included in a limited-ingredient dog food. The term also does not guarantee against multiple protein sources being used or potential for contamination with non-listed ingredients.

“Typically, diets labeled as having limited ingredients will tend to have only a single protein source and limited carbohydrates, which reduces the number of ingredients in the diet that the dog is likely to have an adverse reaction to,” says Dr. Sarah Dodd, a veterinarian who specializes in companion animal nutrition and a resident of the European College of Veterinary and Comparative Nutrition.

“The purpose of a limited-ingredient recipe is to eliminate multiple animal protein sources,” adds Jennifer Freeman, a registered veterinary technician and director of customer care and nutrition science at Natural Balance. “Many pet parents use these recipes to help narrow down what their pet may or may not be sensitive to. They can also be a great staple for everyday feeding as well.”

Limited-Ingredient Dog Food Ingredients

Depending on the brand, you can find many different types of single source proteins in a limited-ingredient dog food. These proteins may be common (for instance, chicken and beef) or they may be what is called “novel”—less common ingredients that your dog is less likely to have eaten in the past (such as venison or kangaroo). 

“A limited-ingredient diet could have any protein source,” Dodd says. “Most often, however, limited-ingredient diets utilize uncommon or exotic protein sources, in an attempt to offer something that is novel to the dog.” 

“Novel animal protein sources are ideal for limited-ingredient recipes,” Freeman says, “especially if a pet parent wants to feed an animal protein source that their pet has not been exposed to before.”

According to Dodd, the top dietary allergens for dogs are chicken, beef, and dairy-derived proteins. For this reason, most limited-ingredient recipes generally include meats from birds other than chickens (for example, turkey or duck), from ruminants other than cows (like bison, sheep, goats, or deer) or from fish (salmon or pollock). Dogs who have allergies or sensitivities to one source in a category may also react to other proteins in that category. Some LIDs even include plant-based proteins from soy, peas, or oats.

Carbohydrates can be nearly anything, but generally include those known to be less likely to cause sensitivities, including rice, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and oats. 

Grain-Free vs Limited-Ingredient Dog Food

Limited-ingredient diets are not the same as grain-free diets. Grain-free diets are those that contain no grains, such as corn, wheat, oats, or rice. Grain-free diets use alternative carbohydrate sources like potatoes, legumes and quinoa, but they may contain multiple types of protein and carbohydrates, as well as other ingredients. Some limited-ingredient diets are also grain free, and are labeled as both grain free and limited ingredient.

Grain-free canine diets have been implicated in the FDA’s investigation of diet-related dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), a heart condition in dogs. Consult your veterinarian before putting your dog on a grain-free diet.

Benefits of Limited-Ingredient Dog Food

For dogs with diagnosed food allergies or food sensitivities, limited-ingredient diets are key to keeping them healthy and comfortable. Veterinarians may even suggest a limited-ingredient diet to help diagnose a food allergy in a dog.

“If a dog is suspected of having a dietary allergy, oftentimes an elimination trial is performed, where all food sources are eliminated from the diet, with the exception of a limited number of ingredients, especially proteins,” Dodd says. “If the dog’s clinical signs improve, it suggests that the dog was experiencing an adverse reaction to something in the previous diet that is not present in the limited-ingredient diet.” 

The vet then “challenges” the dog to the suspect ingredient by reintroducing it to the diet to see if the dog reacts. If the dog’s symptoms return, and then resolve when that ingredient is again removed, it’s safe to say the dog is likely allergic to that particular ingredient. Most diet trials last between 8-10 weeks, because it takes that long for the skin and gut cells to turn over and for the food antigens from the previous diet to be eliminated from the body.

Diagnosing food allergies through elimination trials is tricky. The food must be absolutely free from any ingredients other than those stated on the ingredients list, including traces of ingredients that result from cross-contamination. In addition, the food must be manufactured in machines that are completely cleaned in between runs of different types of food, otherwise trace antigens of other proteins and/or carbohydrates will be present in the food. For that reason, veterinarians generally use a prescription limited-ingredient diet to perform these trials. Once a dog’s allergies have been identified, the pet owner may opt to continue feeding the prescription diet the dog does well on, or try an over-the-counter diet that does not contain any of the dog’s known allergens. 

Dogs with no known allergies or sensitivities can enjoy limited-ingredient diets, too. “What is more important than looking at the number or type of ingredients is looking at the nutrient profile and determining if it fits with that dog’s individual requirements,” Dodd says. “Each dog is an individual, and their specific requirements should be considered when a diet is selected, both with respect to the number and types of ingredients they may or may not tolerate, as well as the nutrient profile that would suit their health and lifestyle best.” 

Always work with your veterinarian to determine the best type of diet for your dog’s nutritional needs. 

Is Limited-Ingredient Dog Food Right for Your Pup?

If you’re considering making the switch to a limited-ingredient diet, talk to your veterinarian first. Limited-ingredient diets can be a great option for most dogs whether or not they have food allergies or sensitivities, but all the formulas are slightly different. 

“A complete and balanced limited-ingredient diet is just as sufficient as any other complete and balanced diet in providing all the nutrients that a dog is known to require,” Dodd says. “For example, an older dog may require a diet relatively high in energy and protein to avoid age-related muscle loss, or, if prone to being overweight, they may require a diet lower in energy to avoid weight gain as their exercise tolerance and activity decreases over time.”

Your vet knows your dog and can offer specific recommendations tailored to your dog’s nutritional needs, as well as answer any questions you might have regarding what to feed, how much to feed, and how to gradually switch your dog’s diet to something new so you can avoid any stomach upset. 

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Any change in your kitty’s behavior can be alarming, and you will want to know: when should I be concerned, and when should I reach out to my veterinarian? Here we describe when cat head bobbing is normal, the many causes, and when to talk to your veterinarian.

Cat Head Bobbing: Is It Normal? 

Head bobbing is normal when cats are very sleepy and are about to fall asleep. When cats are fighting sleep, they can sometimes bob their head as they begin to fall asleep but aren’t quite there yet! If your cat only experiences head bobbing when they are trying to sleep, and the bob is very subtle, this is likely not a cause for concern.

Also, blind cats may have a subtle head bob as they explore new surroundings—when their whiskers touch something, they may move their head back in an exaggerated way because they cannot see, and then immediately approach something again. This is a normal way of exploring new things.

However, cat head bobbing in other circumstances is rarely normal and almost always indicates other issues. Head bobbing can be very subtle or very obvious. Usually other symptoms are there too—like twitching of other parts of the body, increased urination or thirst, changes in your kitty’s fur coat, or changes in the way your cat walks.

Causes of Cat Head Bobbing

There are many potential causes of head bobbing in cats. These include:

• Ear infections
• Brain inflammation or structural issues
• Metabolic disease
• Seizures
• Skin Disease
• Mouth Pain
• Feline Hyperesthesia
• Anesthesia

Cat head bobbing is often accompanied by other symptoms as well. Noting the other symptoms, along with the head bobbing, can help your veterinarian figure out what is wrong.

Ear Infections

When cats develop ear infections, they often have inflammation of the inner or middle ear as well as the outer ear. The inner inflammation affects a nerve that connects to the brainstem (central brain) and can result in head bobbing. 

Usually other symptoms of ear infections in cats include:

• Discharge of one or both ears
• Redness of one or both ears
• Scratching of the ear when rubbed, or vocalizing as if in pain
• Walking in circles
• Constantly tilting the head to one side
• Stumbling a little during walking

Ear infections are frequently treated with medication externally in the ear, as well as antibiotics and possibly steroids to decrease inflammation. Deep ear infections can take 1 to 2 months to resolve.

Brain Inflammation or Structural Issues

The brain contains the cerebellum, which controls movements of your cat’s body. When the cerebellum is affected by inflammation of any kind, head bobbing or tremors will likely be seen. The rest of the brain, called the cerebrum, doesn’t control movements quite the same way as the cerebellum. However, inflammation in this area of the brain can affect a variety of neurons, or electrical connections, that affect your cat’s behavior and reactions.

There are a multitude of conditions that can cause inflammation in the brain and lead to head bobbing. 

Examples include:

• Congenital conditions (born with a slightly different brain structure)

• Hydrocephalus (fluid buildup occurs in the center of the cerebrum, causing the brain to bulge, affecting the cerebellum and cerebrum)

• Trauma (any accident that affects the head)

• Vascular incident (stroke). This can occur secondary to trauma, systemic (full body) disease or congenital issue like an abnormal vessel in the brain.

• Cancer. This is much more common in senior cats. Cancer that affects the brain usually starts in the brain itself, not spread to the brain from other parts of the body.

• Infection. Infections can be caused by bacteria, parasites, viruses, or fungi.

• Bacteria. Any systemic issue could cause a bacterial infection to spread to the brain, but it is rare. This may occur with severe inner ear infections.

• Parasites: infection with Toxoplasma gondii or the spread of parasites to the brain such as Cuterebra spp. from the skin or Dirofilaria immitis from the blood.

• Viruses: Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP), Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), and Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) can be direct causes or secondary causes since these viruses affect many areas of the body. Feline panleukopenia virus can infect mother cats and their unborn kittens. When this occurs, kittens are born with abnormal cerebellums. Rabies virus is rare in the United States but does occur months after bites from wildlife.

• Fungal infections. Cryptococcus neoformans, Blastomyces dermatitidis, Histoplasma capsulatum, Coccidioides spp., Aspergillus spp. and Candida spp. are fungi that could affect a cat’s brain. The most common is Cryptococcus, although in general fungal infection of the brain is rare.

• Inflammatory disease. Meningitis or meningoencephalitis refer to inflammation of the brain or the outer layer of the brain and spinal cord. Infection (as listed above) or your cat’s immune system can cause this inflammation.

• Degenerative conditions. Rarely, certain cells in a cat’s brain will prematurely degenerate (breakdown) and stop functioning

When your cat’s brain is affected, there will typically be other neurologic symptoms that occur along with the head bobbing, such as: 

• Walking in circles
• Stumbling during walking
• Change in consciousness. Seems “spaced out” or less aware of his surroundings.
• Increased aggression or increased passiveness
• Change in size of the pupil (black central part of the eye) – bigger or smaller than usual, and may not change in the dark or bright light
• Abnormal movement of the eyes, almost like twitching of the pupil, when not looking around
• Seizures
• Twitching or pain of any part of the body
• Decreased activity and/or appetite

Treatment of these conditions varies widely depending on the cause. Infections are treated with specific medications and usually take a few months to resolve. Trauma and vascular incidents are usually treated with supportive care to keep your cat feeling generally healthy while allowing your cat’s body time to heal. Inflammatory or degenerative disease may be treated with medications that decrease the overactive immune system and are lifelong. There are not many treatment options for cancer, but it depends on which type of cancer your cat has.

Metabolic Disease

There are many causes of systemic (i.e. full body) illness that can lead to head bobbing in cats, whether it affects the brain directly or not. This occurs with any imbalance of electrolytes (key elements in the body like sodium or potassium), blood sugar, or insulin. These imbalances affect nerves and muscles. 

Examples of metabolic disease in cats include:

• Chronic kidney disease
• Diabetes mellitus
• Liver disease like portosystemic shunts
• Hyperthyroidism
• Dietary insufficiency (i.e. lack of thiamine)
• Hypertension i.e. high blood pressure
• Congenital myasthenia gravis (in Sphynx and Devon Rex breeds only)

Cats often have other symptoms of illness when they have metabolic disease, including:

• Increased urination and thirst
• Decreased or increased appetite
• Decrease in weight
• Vomiting and/or diarrhea

Treatment varies depending on the condition. Some conditions such as diabetes mellitus, hyperthyroidism, and hypertension are treated with specific lifelong medications. Chronic kidney disease typically involves special diets, hydration, and supplements to support your kitty for the rest of his life. Liver disease may require supportive care and supplements or possibly surgery if a shunt is present, and the condition is lifelong. Dietary insufficiency will resolve within weeks once your cat’s thiamine has been supplemented and his diet has been improved.

Seizures

In general, seizures can be due to the causes listed above or they can be idiopathic, meaning no known cause can be found. Only about 2 percent of cats are diagnosed with seizures [1]. Epilepsy, seizures of unknown origin that happen with some frequency, occurs in 1 in 3 cats diagnosed with seizures and typically begins between the ages of 1 and 4 years old.

Focal seizures are when only part of a cat’s body has abnormal movements or twitches, such as certain limbs, eyelids, or parts of the face. Many times, cats do not lose consciousness during these seizures. Head bobbing can be classified as a focal seizure, but not always.

Generalized seizures are when a cat loses consciousness, and their entire body dramatically twitches and moves for seconds to minutes. Head bobbing can be a neurologic symptom that eventually progresses to generalized seizures.

If there is a specific underlying cause of the seizures, treatment is dependent on the cause. If no cause is known, seizures are often treated with lifelong anti-seizure medications. If seizures are very frequent and uncontrolled, it can cause life threatening damage to the brain over time.

Skin Disease

When cats experience itchiness, it can look like head bobbing due to overstimulated nerves. Cats often hide when scratching or grooming themselves, so knowing your cat is itchy is challenging. 

Symptoms include:

• Change in fur coat especially fur loss or shortened fur
• Scaly skin
• Redness to skin
• Oily or bad smelling fur

Treatment involves addressing the underlying inflammation and infections, and frequently includes a special diet.       

Mouth Pain

Cats with severe dental problems can be seen head bobbing due to pain and overstimulated nerves in the mouth. Even cats with apparently normal looking teeth can have painful dental issues hidden under the surface that can only be diagnosed with X-rays. 

Other symptoms of mouth pain in cats include:

• Foul breath
• Discoloration of teeth i.e. brown or gray teeth
• Severe redness of the gums or other tissue in the mouth
• Excessive drooling
• Pawing at the mouth
• Vocalizing when eating
• Preference to eat only soft (canned) food
• Decreased appetite

Treatment involves a dental procedure under anesthesia at a veterinary clinic.

Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome

This is a complex behavior disorder that is triggered by fleas, stress, seizures, pain, or brain inflammation. Cats with this syndrome have overactive nerves, which results in twitching or head bobbing as well as many changes to behavior, including when brushing or petting your cat. Treatment is highly variable depending on cause, but often includes medications given lifelong to help your cat’s behavior.

Anesthesia

If your veterinarian had to anesthetize your cat (i.e. give medications to make your cat sleep while undergoing a medical procedure), he/she may have used ketamine. In rare cases for unknown reasons, cats begin head bobbing afterward but this should resolve completely within 48 hours.

When to Call Your Veterinarian 

If you notice head bobbing in your cat that is not when your cat is falling asleep, take a video of the behavior and call your veterinarian right away. 

If it occurs while your cat is falling asleep, monitor your cat closely for an increase in how often it occurs or if it becomes more dramatic. If frequency increases or it becomes more dramatic, a call to your veterinarian is recommended.

Be prepared to answer your veterinarian’s questions that may target specific causes. Questions may include:

• What if any other symptoms or changes you have noticed in your cat?

• Does your cat have a history of trauma?

• Did your cat eat anything toxic, such as human foods with xylitol, household cleaners, rodent poison, or antifreeze?

• Was your cat recently anesthetized at another clinic?

• What does your cat eat? Is it a well-balanced diet sold at pet stores, or do you make your cat’s food? (Home cooked diets are much more likely to cause issues.)

Your veterinarian will need to perform a wide variety of tests to rule out causes for the head bobbing. These may include:

• Bloodwork including complete blood count (CBC), chemistry and thyroid levels
• Urine testing, i.e. urinalysis and possibly culture
• Blood pressure
• FeLV and FIV testing

If these tests do not demonstrate anything, more advanced testing may be recommended including:

• Parasite testing (Toxoplasma, Cryptococcus, Dirofilaria)
• X-rays
• Advanced imaging with a neurologist such as magnetic resonance imaging (MRI)

Cats may bob their head for a variety of reasons, and some can be serious issues that need veterinary intervention. By paying close attention to additional symptoms, your vet can start your cat on a treatment or management plan to address the cause of the head bobbing behavior. 

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While these blind cats still make loving companions, they do need a bit more care and attention. Whether you’re adopting a cat who is already blind, or your longtime pet recently lost her vision, there are simple steps you can take to ensure that she still has a safe, fulfilling and low-stress life.

How to Tell If a Cat is Blind

“Signs of vision loss in cats can be quite subtle or significant, depending on the onset of the vision loss,” says Dr. Brad Holmberg, a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist at the Animal Eye Center of New Jersey. Cats whose vision loss sets in gradually often adjust well enough that their pet parents don’t notice something is amiss until the cat is in a new environment. A sudden loss of vision is more obvious: you’ll probably notice your cat is bumping into things around the house.

Cats with vision issues tend to be more apprehensive and walk slowly and low to the ground, Holmberg says. Sometimes they keep their legs spread wide, and sometimes they stick out their necks so their whiskers can help them sense their surroundings. “They tend to be more cautious,” he adds, “especially when jumping down from a height.” And they may also become less active and start spending more time alone.

According to Holmberg, a blind cat’s pupils may be widely dilated. Their eyes might have a bright yellow, orange, or green sheen to them, or they may look white or bluish and cloudy, or take on a dark red color. One or both of a vision-impaired cat’s eyes may also look enlarged.

Causes of Blindness in Cats

Just like people, some cats are born blind or go blind right after birth, but neither is very common, Holmberg says. Severe upper respiratory infection as a kitten can scar or even rupture their eyes, leaving them blind in one or both eyes. More often, older cats lose vision due to cataracts, glaucoma, or chronic high blood pressure. 

Other possible causes include scarring from a previous injury, excess fluid in the cornea, and inflammation from a corneal ulcer or virus. Infectious diseases such as FeLV, FIV, and toxoplasmosis can also result in damage to a cat’s eyes, as can cancer, inherited degenerative disease, or optic nerve inflammation.

How to Care for a Blind Cat

“Unlike dogs, cats need relatively little changes in the home when they lose vision,” Holmberg says. Still, if you notice a change in your cat’s sight, he recommends seeing a veterinarian as soon as possible. That’s because while some causes of vision loss can’t be reversed, others can—or can at least be improved—if they’re caught early enough. (In fact, he says that half of cats who lose vision due to hypertension can actually regain sight if they’re treated early on.)

Once you’re clear on the root cause, you can start thinking about any necessary changes at home. Blind cats “tend to adapt very well using their other senses—especially smell, touch, and hearing—and usually very little needs to be done to help them adapt,” Holmberg says. 

He suggests keeping their environment as stable and predictable as possible—this isn’t the time to redecorate, change their food dish location, or rotate furniture. He also recommends keeping at least two litter boxes on each floor of the house.

“Cats tend to memorize their surroundings, and will use their sense of smell to find the litter box as well as food and water areas,” he says. “I always tell my clients that cats tend to have a sixth sense and use it to navigate when visually impaired.”

For cats who are still struggling to adapt, Holmberg suggests creating more opportunities for smell and texture cues. Soft surfaces like rug runners can be especially useful in helping a blind cat re-orient herself when moving through the house, since they soak up scents and also show her a change in texture.

“Cats that have acute vision loss can be quite apprehensive, cautious, and disoriented,” Holmberg says. “All of this can lead to negative behaviors.” Your formerly peaceful pet may begin peeing outside the litterbox, fighting with other cats in the house, or even becoming aggressive with family members. Holmberg says most of this behavior will improve over time, as your cat adapts to her new reality. 

In the meantime, he recommends creating a safe area where your cat can go to be away from any other pets. “You can probably imagine that if you couldn’t see and another cat or dog jumped on you, it could be quite surprising and disturbing,” he says.

The advice above also applies if you’re adopting a cat who is already blind, according to Holmberg. Start by creating a quiet, safe room or space where the cat can feel comfortable. Along with the basics, include a brand-new scratching post and some of your worn clothing. Spend time talking and petting her, but don’t rush or force the relationship. Once she is comfortable, you can start introducing the rest of your home, ideally one floor at a time. 

“Returning them to their [original] room when you leave is a good idea in the beginning, as then you’ll know they’re safe,” Holmberg says. “You may also want to close doors to rooms that are not frequently used, or ones that have too many hiding areas.”

When introducing a blind cat to new people, “remind them that the cat is blind, and to talk to the cat and move slowly before trying to pet the cat,” Holmberg says. “This is especially important with kids, as a startled cat could fear bite or scratch.”

The post Guide to Life With a Blind Cat: Tips and Advice appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Let’s learn about doxycycline for dogs, what it’s good for, and how to administer it safely, so you can continue to take good care of your pet.

What is Doxycycline? 

Doxycycline is a prescription medication that was patented in 1957 and became commercially available in 1967. It is from the tetracycline group of antibiotics used to treat a variety of infections and conditions in veterinary medicine, including bacterial infections, respiratory infections, and tick-borne diseases. Doxycycline can be used in many different species, including dogs, cats, horses, reptiles, small mammals, rodents, and even birds.

It comes in different forms, such as tablets, capsules, and liquid, all to be given by mouth. You may see doxycycline under a few different brand names including Vibramycin, Oracea, Monodox, Periostat, Doryx, and Acticlate. 

This medication is FDA approved for human use. But there are no specific versions approved for veterinary use at this time, so the human version is what a veterinarian would likely prescribe your dog. 

Doxycycline is not available over the counter. However, it is readily available through your veterinarian, online pharmacies, compounding pharmacies, and human pharmacies with a prescription from your dog’s veterinarian. 

How Does Doxycycline Work? 

Doxycycline is derived from tetracycline, a semisynthetic drug made from both natural and synthetic sources. Tetracyclines inhibit protein synthesis and alter the cytoplasmic membrane permeability of susceptible organisms—namely bacteria. 

Since healthy cells are not as susceptible, that allows the drug to stop bacterial growth in order to fight off bacterial and microbial infections.

What Is Doxycycline Used For in Dogs? 

Doxycycline is typically used to treat a range of bacterial infections in dogs, as well as infections caused by microorganisms. It is not effective against viral infections or fungal infections. 

Your veterinarian might prescribe this drug to treat a present infection, or as a precaution against a secondary bacterial infection that your dog may be at risk of developing. This is the reason why a veterinarian might prescribe doxycycline for a viral infection like canine parvovirus. Even though the drug will do nothing to fight the viral infection, doxycycline is an effective precaution because parvovirus leaves dogs vulnerable to secondary bacterial infections. 

Doxycycline is commonly prescribed for susceptible bacterial infections including:

• Respiratory tract infections
• Urinary tract infections
• Oral infections
• Leptospirosis
• Toxoplasmosis
• Mycoplasma
• Psittacosis

Doxycycline is also effective against many tick-borne diseases and other diseases caused by parasites, including:

• Lyme disease
• Ehrlichiosis
• Rocky Mountain spotted fever
• Salmon poisoning 
• Heartworm 

Doxycycline may be dispensed by your regular veterinarian or specialist after examination and diagnostic testing, such as a culture and susceptibility test, which would indicate if it is the appropriate drug to treat the infection.  

How to Give Doxycycline to Dogs

Once your dog has been prescribed doxycycline, the next big question is how are you supposed to give it to your pet? 

If you are dispensed the liquid version, simply squirt the correct dosage directly into your dog’s mouth. It may be flavored to make it more palatable—hopefully with chicken or another flavor your dog will like! If your dog has food allergies, be sure to alert your veterinarian. Also, even though it is a liquid medication, it is best to give it with food to avoid stomach upset. 

If your dog was prescribed a tablet or capsule, it is important to get your dog to drink at least 6 ml of water after you administer the pill. This will “wash it down,” helping the pill get to the stomach smoothly and ensuring it does not get stuck in the esophagus, which can cause discomfort. 

You can try putting the pill in a small meatball of dog food or a small piece of cheese if your prescribing veterinarian allows it. There are also treats on the market (available at pet stores or through your veterinarian) that make it easier to pill your pet. 

It is not recommended to crush doxycycline tablets and put them into your dog’s food, as it has a bitter taste and may make the food taste bad. That could deter your pet from eating some or all of their food, which could make it difficult to tell if they received the full prescribed dose. 

If giving your dog a capsule, do not open it up and sprinkle the contents on the food for the same reason. Opening the capsule may also cause the drug to be less effective.

To ease potential stomach upset, it is recommended to give this medication with a meal or a bit of food. But do not give doxycycline with foods containing iron or dairy, as these can block its efficacy. 

Doxycycline Side Effects in Dogs 

As with any medication, there are potential side effects to doxycycline. Though it is usually tolerated very well in dogs, the most common side effect is gastrointestinal upset, including vomiting, diarrhea, and lack of appetite. 

Acute allergic reactions are also possible, just as they are with any other drug. So be sure to let your veterinarian know of any previous drug reactions your dog may have had.

Doxycycline may also make your dog’s skin more sensitive to sunlight and therefore sunburn, especially on hairless areas like the nose, eyelids, and ears. If you have a hairless breed, your dog is most at risk.

Doxycycline should not be given to dogs who are pregnant or lactating. Tetracycline antibiotics, as a group, can cause skeletal limb deformities to puppies in utero. 

More serious side effects include liver failure, as well as seizures, bleeding, behavior changes, or even trouble swallowing. Contact your veterinarian if you detect any sign of these serious side effects. 

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

Another factor to keep in mind if your veterinarian prescribes doxycycline for your dog is whether your pet is taking any other medications. As with any drug, caution must be used when administering multiple medications at once to avoid potential negative reactions. 

For instance, tetracycline drugs can cause blood clotting disorders, so if your dog is already on a blood thinner such as warfarin, it’s important to keep an eye out for signs of a reaction. Also, certain antacids may be needed to be administered several hours before or after the doxycycline, so be sure to discuss any and all medications with the prescribing veterinarian. 

Doxycycline Dosage for Dogs

The appropriate dosage of doxycycline for dogs will vary depending on their health and the condition being treated. Please follow all prescription directions carefully, and do not make any adjustments without consulting your veterinarian. Changing your dog’s medication can lead to antibiotic resistance, which is dangerous for your dog and may also result in a longer recovery time. Do not stop giving the medication if your dog’s condition improves—always finish all medication prescribed. 

What if My Dog Misses a Dose of Doxycycline

If you miss giving your dog a dose of doxycycline, and it is relatively close to when it was due (within 2 hours), you can give the dose. But if it is close to the time for the next dose, skip that missed dose, and return to the regular dosing schedule. Never give your pet two doses at once or give extra doses! 

Cost of Doxycycline for Dogs

Doxycycline is a relatively cost-effective drug, so using the generic version instead of name-brand options may not save you too much money. Depending on the size of your pet, and what dose is prescribed, costs can range from around $0.25 – $1.50 per dose. 

Doxycycline Storage Instructions

Doxycycline tablets and capsules should be stored in a tight container at room temperature (59 – 86 degrees), away from sunlight and out of reach of children and pets. The medication is usually dispensed in a dark container to protect it from the sun. You do not need to refrigerate doxycycline liquid unless it is recommended for any compounded liquid. In that case, the refrigerated medication should be discarded after 14 days. 

The pharmacy will be able to provide additional storage and handling recommendations, depending on the prescribed instructions.

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With insights from veterinarians, we’ve outlined some of the reasons—both innocuous and potentially serious—why your dog may be circling or spinning. We recommend contacting your veterinarian for guidance, especially if this behavior has started abruptly, persists, or worsens. 

Dog Walking in Circles: When It’s Normal

Sometimes this behavior is instinctual and harmless. Here are a few of the most common benign reasons for a dog walking in circles.

Why Do Dogs Walk in Circles Before Lying Down?

It’s a relatively common behavior in the natural world. “Many canids, and in fact many animals, including cats, foxes, and some rodents may engage in this behavior,” says Dr. M. Leanne Lilly, a board certified veterinary behaviorist and clinical professor at the Ohio State University in Columbus.

While nobody can say with certainty why dogs do this, it’s thought to be a remnant of primitive behavior, says Dr. Jerry Klein, chief veterinary officer for the American Kennel Club, based in New York City. “Dogs are making sure their area is safe and comfortable for them to lie down before rest or sleep.” 

Why Do Dogs Walk in Circles Before They Poop?

A dog walking in circles before getting ready to poop may be searching for just the right spot, says Lilly. There are good reasons for this. “It is a vulnerable position to put themselves in, so they may be assessing footing, the best place to leave a message, and safety all in one go.”

Can the Earth’s Magnetic Field Cause a Dog to Walk in Circles?

One study found it possible that dogs align themselves with the Earth’s magnetic field, so theoretically they may be circling to face a certain direction. “When the magnetic fields were calm, the dogs oriented themselves north to south, but when the fields were erratic the north-south behavior was no longer observed,” Lilly explains. It’s still speculation at this point, since no one has been able to successfully replicate this study, “Though a citizen study using this for scientific literacy failed to find this same finding earlier this year,” she says.  

Other Harmless Reasons for Circling Behavior in Dogs

In addition to the reasons above, there are some other common reasons you might notice your dog walking in circles:

Scent: Dogs are finely attuned to different scents, including those that originate from their own bodies. “They may briefly spin or circle to sniff or smell at their own rump, which if short and self-limiting, can be just because of a smell,” says Lilly. “My last dog used to jump up and turn to smell her own rump anytime she passed gas.”

Entertainment: Circling can be a way to alleviate boredom or to simply have fun. “Dogs can circle or spin (a faster form of circling) recreationally, a lot like kids. Dogs can and do seek out excitement in their lives,” says Dr. Walt Burghardt, a board certified staff veterinary behaviorist at BluePearl Specialty + Emergency Pet Hospital in San Antonio, Texas.

Medical Reasons for Dogs Walking in Circles

A dog walking in circles can sometimes indicate an underlying medical or behavioral issue, so it’s essential to contact your veterinarian if something seems out of the ordinary. 

When an illness is responsible for a dog walking in circles, “there are usually other dispositional signs that a dog is unwell,” says Burghardt. Depending on the underlying conditions, other signs may include:

• Confusion
• Falling to one side
• Panting
• Blindness
• Wobbling
• Standing in a corner
• Vomiting
• Loss of appetite
• Loss of housetraining
• Head shaking, scratching at ears, odor from ears
• Abnormal, rapid eye movement
• Head tilted to one side

The following are some medical reasons why dogs walk in circles.

Ear Conditions

If a dog walks in circles and is disoriented or displays other signs like nausea, vomiting, and weakness, an inner ear condition like vestibular disease may be responsible. Middle ear and inner ear conditions like vestibular disease are frequent culprits, says Burghardt, “especially in ear infection-prone dogs and older patients.” Vestibular disease, which is a condition that affects a dog’s balance and is often confused for a stroke, can be peripheral or central, and is called ‘old dog vestibular disease.’ This condition, while dramatic, requires supporting the dog, and often resolves spontaneously over time.

Canine Compulsive Disorders

Dogs unable to find healthy outlets for their fear and anxiety might instead rely on a number of displacement behaviors, one of which is circling or spinning, says Burghardt.  

Some breeds, like Bull Terriers and German Shepherds are thought to be more genetically predisposed to developing canine compulsive disorders. “Terriers, especially Bull Terriers may be more likely to display a behavioral problem with spinning or tail-chasing,” explains Burghardt. “This type of behavior, called compulsive behavior, needs to be fully evaluated and usually needs behavioral, medical, and environmental treatment to help control.” 

Neurological Conditions

Trauma, tumors, and infections are examples of neurological conditions that might cause a dog to walk in circles, says Lilly. “Any neurological disease could cause circling, whether that’s in the front of the brain, or if there is a spinal cord problem causing weakness in one side of the body. The dog may naturally drift in very loose circles toward the weak side when not directly attending to things on the opposite side of its body.” 

Central vestibular disease can be caused by antibiotics, including amikacin, gentamicin, neomycin, and tobramycin, as well as hypothyroidism, head trauma, tumors, and infections.

Pain and Discomfort

Anal gland disease flea allergy dermatitis, and lower spinal pain, for example can cause a dog to circle tightly, “Or attempting to lick, chew, or bite at the tail or rump,” says Lilly.  

Brain Disease

There are several inflammatory brain diseases that could cause circling behavior, such as Pug dog encephalitis. Pug dog encephalitis is a serious disease that causes inflammation and death of the brain tissue. Pugs are genetically prone—about 1.2 percent will develop it—but other small breeds, including Chihuahuas and Yorkshire Terriers are not immune. Other signs of this disease include blindness, seizures, and behavioral changes. 

Why is My Dog Walking in Circles? 

While only a veterinarian can make a diagnosis, a little observation on your part may provide some clues. Noticing what precedes the behavior, the time of day it occurs, and how long it lasts are some things to watch for, says Lilly.

“If it’s minor, predictable, and is not interfering with any other behaviors (such as circling four to five times before defecating), tell your vet at your dog’s next annual exam and make sure they evaluate your dog’s whole body.” 

Dogs who walk in circles before defecating may have trouble or pain when posturing. This would most likely be a concern if the dog is walking in more and more circles over time and is older.

If it’s a sudden or new behavior, interrupting your dog’s ability to eat, sleep, play and rest, is combined with other clinical signs, or is the only way she can walk, then seek veterinary care as soon as possible, she says.

What to Do if Your Dog Keeps Walking in Circles

There are two main factors to watch for that may indicate that the circling is serious, and that you should contact your veterinarian.

The Behavior is Persistent. “Especially if there is any other indication that a pet might not be feeling well or is causing itself injury. These are clear signals that your pet should see their attending veterinarian to start the diagnostic process,” says Burghardt.

The Behavior Develops Abruptly. Circling that develops abruptly or that quickly gets worse, oftentimes indicates an issue, says Burghardt. “In these cases, a veterinary visit is recommended as soon as practical. When these behaviors are associated with disorientation, seizures or collapse an emergency visit is usually the best option.”

Getting Ready to Talk to Your Veterinarian 

Be ready to answer questions your veterinarian might have, recommends Lilly. These include questions about eating, drinking and resting patterns, when the behavior occurs and how often, the length of time it lasts, and whether the dog responds when you call her name.

Veterinarians also say it helps for them to see a video of your dog walking in circles. “Getting one or more short clips of the behaviors of concern can often help your veterinarian or veterinary specialist to help sort things out,” offers Burkhardt.

Dog Walking in Circles: Diagnosis and Treatment

What can you expect when you take your pup in for the diagnostic exam?

Diagnosing a Dog Walking in Circles

There are no specific tests for circling or spinning, says Burghardt. “However, your veterinarian will often start with a complete physical and neurological examination and laboratory screening tailored to your individual pet.”

The exam might include an orthopedic evaluation, spinal pain evaluation, and reflex testing, says Lilly. “Some dogs may need advanced imaging (MRI) as that’s our best [way of] evaluating the brain, spinal cord and surrounding fluid and tissue.”

Treating a Dog Walking in Circles

Treatment will depend on the underlying cause. For example: “For problems that involve distress or appear to be compulsive in nature, a combination of anti-anxiety or antidepressant medications with environmental enrichment and targeted training to teach more productive behaviors often help,” explains Burghardt. “Follow-up for behavioral cases often involves periodic owner-conducted assessments of the degree of improvement seen in their pet.”

Compulsive disorders are a diagnosis of exclusion, says Lilly. “We have to rule everything out first, including pain.” Your veterinarian will be able to walk you through treatment for your dog if needed. The cause of circling, once determined, can often be resolved with the help of professionals, so do not hesitate to reach out to your local veterinarian.

The post Why is My Dog Walking in Circles? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Metronidazole is an antibiotic as well as an antiprotozoal that can be used to treat a variety of parasite infections like giardia. 

If you look up metronidazole on the internet, you may be surprised to read that this medication can also be quite toxic. Keep reading to understand what metronidazole is used for and how you can use it safely and effectively to treat your cat.  

What is Metronidazole?

Metronidazole was created in a laboratory in France in 1959, where it was originally intended to be used to kill certain parasites known as protozoa. But it was soon discovered to be effective in killing bacteria, as well, making it one of the few medications with both antibiotic and antiprotozal properties. 

Metronidazole became widely used in the 1970s and is now available in a variety of forms, both as a generic medication, as well as under the brand name Flagyl.

Metronidazole is approved by the FDA for human use in the United States, but it is not FDA approved for use in dogs and cats. However, other countries have approved metronidazole for cats and a variety of other species. 

It has been used in animals for decades and is a very commonly prescribed medication by veterinarians. Metronidazole is available across the United States at any veterinary clinic. 

What Does Metronidazole Look Like?

Most veterinarians will prescribe the generic metronidazole for cats in 250 mg and 500 mg tablets. The appearance of the medication varies by manufacturer, but the tablets are generally circular or oval and white with letters and numbers stamped on them, depending on the size. The liquid form is available in many colors but is usually off-white to tan. 

The name-brand capsules are green and gray. Many name-brand manufacturers produce tablets that are yellow or orange in color. Topical forms of metronidazole are typically white to off-white and come in a variety of consistencies, but are more commonly prescribed for human use only. 

How Does Metronidazole Work?

Metronidazole is called a nitroimidazole antibacterial and antiprotozoal because of the complicated way that it kills bacteria and protozoa. Metronidazole only works in anaerobic cells, meaning cells of bacteria and protozoa that do not require oxygen. 

There are many bacteria and protozoa that live in cats’ guts or gastrointestinal tracts that do not require oxygen, making them susceptible to the effects of metronidazole. Other types of bacteria that require oxygen, commonly found in the nose, throat, and lungs, would not be killed effectively by metronidazole.

After a cat is given metronidazole, the medication is absorbed into tissues and organs throughout the cat’s body. Bacteria or protozoa ingest the metronidazole and metabolize it or break it down. At this point, metronidazole transforms into free radicals, unstable substances that destroy DNA (genetic material). The free radicals target the bacterial or protozoal DNA, effectively killing them. After a very short time, the free radicals break down even further into harmless substances. 

For cats with giardia, this medication also decreases the parasite’s ability to breathe.

What Is Metronidazole Used for in Cats?

The most common reason a veterinarian might prescribe metronidazole for your cat is to treat issues in the gut, such as bacterial imbalance or parasites. 

Typically, it will be prescribed if your cat has a severe case of diarrhea — such as one characterized by unformed or liquid stool, inability to make it to the litter box, and/or chronic diarrhea that has not responded to other treatments. If fecal (poop) samples are tested and indicate the presence of certain parasites such as Giardia spp., your veterinarian will likely treat these with metronidazole. 

 Specifically in cats, metronidazole is often prescribed for:

• Inflammatory bowel disease or chronic inflammation of the gut.
• Hepatic encephalopathy, which is when the liver is unable to process toxins in the blood and these toxins go into the brain, causing neurologic symptoms.
• Helicobacter spp., bacteria in the stomach which may cause stomach ulcers, vomiting, and inflammation.
• Periodontal (dental) infections, including gingivitis and stomatitis (inflammation of the whole mouth). 

Metronidazole Side Effects in Cats

The vast majority of cats tolerate this medication very well, though some mild side effects may occur. 

Side effects involving the gut may include:

• Nausea and/or vomiting
• Increased salivation
• Decreased appetite
• Weight loss

These types of symptoms are easily managed if metronidazole is an essential part of your cat’s treatment plan. However, in some cases, higher doses of metronidazole or longer courses of treatment can cause toxicosis, or toxic side effects. So it is important for pet parents to know how to recognize it and what to do about it.

Doses of metronidazole over 25 mg/kg twice daily and treatment plans lasting 6 months or more have been associated with toxicity. Toxicosis typically causes neurologic symptoms (i.e., symptoms related to the brain and other nerves). Symptoms of toxicosis in cats include:

• Weakness, (i.e., your cat cannot stand, walk or jump as usual)
• Ataxia or “drunken walk”
• Change in behavior and awareness of surroundings
• Blindness or inability to see
• Nystagmus or unusual movement of the pupils of your cat’s eyes
• Seizures

If any of these symptoms occur while giving your cat metronidazole, stop giving the medication and immediately bring your cat to a veterinary hospital. Usually, these symptoms will go away but it may take weeks to months. Depending on how severe the symptoms are, your cat may need extra care while recovering.

Other very rare side effects of metronidazole include inflammation in the mouth, inflammation of the liver, decreased immune system response, change in urine color, and yeast infection in the gut.

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

There are a few specific medications that interact with metronidazole:

• Cimetidine – metronidazole will leave the body slower, which increases risk of toxicity
• Cyclosporine – increases the risk of toxic effects by cyclosporine on kidneys
• Phenobarbital – metronidazole will leave the body more quickly, becoming less effective
• Warfarin – metronidazole will leave the body more quickly, becoming less effective; may also increase warfarin’s potency

If your cat is taking any of the above medications, make sure to speak to your veterinarian before giving your cat metronidazole. 

Metronidazole Dosage for Cats

Typically, metronidazole is administered to cats orally (by mouth) or intravenously (injected into the bloodstream). Metronidazole is typically given twice daily or every 12 hours, but in certain circumstances, your veterinarian may prescribe it every 24 hours.

The dosing amount your veterinarian prescribes depends on what your cat is being treated for as well as factors such as age, other medications, and weight. For example, very young kittens typically receive lower doses. Obese cats may be prescribed lower doses since they have excess fat. It is critical to follow your veterinarian’s prescribed dosage exactly, as this medication can cause toxic effects if not. 

Liquid metronidazole dosing varies based on concentration, or how many milligrams (mg) per milliliter (mL). Topicals are rarely if ever used in cats, and a specialist would choose a unique dose for your kitty.

Metronidazole doses should not be given any sooner than 8 hours apart. If you are finding that your schedule does not allow for dosing your cat approximately every 12 hours, speak with your veterinarian right away to avoid risks of toxicity.

What if My Cat Misses a Dose of Metronidazole?

If you realize you’ve missed giving your cat a dose of metronidazole, it is better to skip that dose entirely, rather than give it late. This will avoid any potential toxicity from taking too much metronidazole too close together.

Cost of Metronidazole for Cats

Metronidazole is inexpensive if using generic formulations. For example, 250 mg tablets generally cost less than 25 cents each. Most pet parents will spend less than $10 for a short-term prescription of tablets. Liquid pricing depends on the brand or compounded formulation, meaning it is specially made into a different concentration to be easier to prescribe to cats. Pet parents should expect to spend less than $20 for a short-term prescription of liquid metronidazole.

Brand name metronidazole will cost considerably more, but this is infrequently used in cats as the size of tablets or capsules cannot be given to cats due to being too high of a dose.

Metronidazole Storage Instructions

Metronidazole should be stored at room temperature (approximately 68-77 degrees) and kept in a container that is light-resistant (i.e., a container that you cannot see through). If metronidazole liquid was compounded for your cat it may need refrigeration. Speak with your veterinary clinic if unsure.

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Metronidazole is commonly used to treat conditions like acute onset diarrhea, inflammatory bowel disease, giardia, and other diseases of the gastrointestinal (GI) tract, liver, and soft tissues. 

Most dogs tolerate metronidazole well, but there are some things you should know about this medication before giving it to your dog. Read on to learn more about metronidazole and its myriad uses in veterinary medicine!

What is Metronidazole?

Metronidazole, also known by the brand name Flagyl, is an antibiotic medication commonly used in both human and veterinary medicine. In humans, metronidazole is FDA approved in several different forms, including pills, injections, and topical creams. Metronidazole is not FDA approved in dogs and its use in veterinary medicine is off label, which means vets may prescribe it even though it is not FDA approved. 

There are many generic forms of metronidazole available, which makes this medication relatively inexpensive. A prescription is required to obtain metronidazole. Pet owners can get this drug through their veterinary clinic or from a human pharmacy with a prescription from their veterinarian. Because metronidazole is widely used in human medicine, it is readily available, and pet owners can easily fill their dog’s metronidazole prescription at any human pharmacy.

What Does Metronidazole Look Like?

Because there are so many generic forms of Metronidazole available, the exact appearance of the pill will vary depending on the manufacturer. However, Metronidazole is typically a white round or oval-shaped tablet. Metronidazole also comes in both an oral liquid and in an injectable form, which is sometimes used for hospitalized patients. 

For humans, metronidazole comes in topical creams, gels, and lotions, as well. Though these formulations are generally not used in veterinary medicine.

How Does Metronidazole Work?

Metronidazole works by penetrating anaerobic bacteria cells and forming free radicals that inhibit DNA synthesis, causing the degradation of DNA and death of the bacteria. It is also effective against protozoal organisms. When given orally, metronidazole is absorbed from the GI tract and metabolized by the liver. 

Most dogs tolerate metronidazole well and experience little to no side effects. Your dog will generally begin to feel better within a few days of starting metronidazole. 

Remember that it is very important to give the full course of medication as prescribed by your veterinarian, even if your dog is feeling better, to ensure that your dog’s infection has completely resolved.

What is Metronidazole Used for in Dogs?

Metronidazole is used to treat a variety of conditions in dogs including: 

• Diarrhea
• Giardia
• Trichomonas
• Inflammatory bowel disease
• Enteropathy
• Hepatic encephalopathy
• Vaginitis

This medication is also sometimes used in combination with other antibiotics to help provide a more broad-spectrum antibiotic coverage. 

Metronidazole Side Effects in Dogs

Most dogs respond well to metronidazole with little to no side effects. Side effects that do occur tend to be mild and resolve soon after discontinuing the drug. If your dog experiences side effects after taking metronidazole, stop giving the medication and contact your veterinarian for further advice. 

Side effects of metronidazole in dogs include:

• Loss of appetite
• Vomiting
• Excessive salivation
• Stomatitis (inflammation of the mouth)
• Loss of sense of smell
• Hepatotoxicity (liver disease)
• Candida overgrowth
• Neurologic changes (blindness, paralysis or abnormal walking, seizure)

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

Metronidazole should be used with caution in dogs taking certain medications due to the risk of adverse reactions. Metronidazole may cause interactions with medications such as:

• Barbiturates
• Phenytoin
• Warfarin
• Cimetidine
• Lithium
• Terfenadine
• Astemizole
• Vitamin K antagonists

If your dog is on any of the above medications, talk to your veterinarian before starting metronidazole. Your veterinarian may recommend starting on a lower dose of metronidazole or using a different medication to reduce the risk of a reaction.

Metronidazole Dosage for Dogs

The dose of metronidazole varies depending on the condition being treated and your dog’s weight. Follow your veterinarian’s dosing instructions closely to ensure your dog receives the correct dose of medication. Always complete the full course of antibiotics, even if your dog begins to feel better. 

Never give your dog metronidazole — or any other prescription medication — unless it has been prescribed by your veterinarian. Doing so may be harmful to your dog and may increase the risk of side effects.

What if My Dog Misses a Dose of Metronidazole?

If your dog misses a metronidazole dose, continue on with the dosing schedule as prescribed. Do not double up doses or give your dog extra medication to account for the missed dose. 

If your dog misses more than one dose of medication, consult your veterinarian for advice on how to proceed. Your veterinarian may recommend restarting the course of antibiotics or adjusting the treatment plan to ensure your dog’s infection is addressed adequately.

Cost of Metronidazole for Dogs

Metronidazole is available as a generic medication, so it is generally inexpensive. Pet owners should expect to pay about $20-$50 for a metronidazole prescription, depending on the tablet strength prescribed and the duration of the treatment prescribed. 

Metronidazole Storage Instructions

Metronidazole should be stored in a tightly sealed, light-resistant container at room temperature, away from moisture. Liquid formulations of metronidazole may need to be kept refrigerated. Be sure to read the packaging and follow the manufacturer’s directions for proper storage.

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This pattern repeats again and again, every few minutes. As the night wears on, your annoyance turns to concern and you begin to worry about what could be causing this behavior. 

Read on to learn more about why dogs shake their heads, and what you can do to help. 

Why Do Dogs Shake Their Heads?

Dogs shake their heads for a variety of reasons, and it isn’t always an abnormal behavior. In some contexts, head shaking is completely predictable and expected. Many dogs shake their heads when they first wake up, just like we tend to stretch when we get out of bed. 

Dogs also tend to shake their heads when they’re playing with a toy or excited. Some dogs even do a full-body shake, starting at the head and extending all the way along the body to the tail. They might also shake their heads if they get wet from a bath or from swimming. An occasional shake of the head is nothing to be concerned about. 

Excessive head shaking, however, often has an underlying medical cause. If your dog is repeatedly and frequently shaking their head, especially if this is a change from their normal behavior, it’s important to determine the cause of their abnormal head shaking. 

Why Does My Dog Keep Shaking His Head? 5 Potential Reasons

The most common cause of abnormal head shaking in dogs is inflammation of the ears, called otitis. There are several potential causes of otitis, each of which differ in their treatment and long-term management. Let’s explore them further.

Ear Infection

Ear infections are a relatively common problem in dogs. They occur when bacteria or yeast (which are always present in the environment) proliferate to an excessive level within the ear canal. Infection can occur in the inner, middle, or external ear canal, although infections of the external ear canal (otitis externa) are the most common in dogs. Factors that may predispose a dog to develop otitis externa include excessive moisture in the ear canal, allergies, and endocrine disease (such as hypothyroidism). 

Ear Mites

Ear mites can cause inflammation of the ears, but they are actually relatively uncommon in adult dogs. They are more common in puppies, especially those housed in a crowded situation that promotes close contact with other dogs. Ear mites are microscopic parasites that live within the ear canal, causing severe irritation and discomfort for affected dogs. 

Foreign Body

Foreign objects, such as grass seeds, occasionally find their way into a dog’s ear canal. If this occurs, they may cause significant irritation and inflammation, causing a dog to shake their head and show other signs of discomfort.

Ear Trauma

Any wound to the ear can cause irritation and head shaking. Trauma can have an external source (such as a bite wound from another dog), or it may be caused by self-trauma (a dog that scratches their ear and causes an injury with their toenail).

Allergic Otitis 

If a dog is shaking their head with no ear infection or other visible abnormalities, allergies may be to blame. Many dogs are allergic to inhaled allergens, such as tree pollen, weeds, grasses, mold, etc. Other dogs are allergic to proteins within their food, such as beef or chicken. Both types of allergies can lead to inflammation within the ear canals. 

Other Causes of Dog Head Shaking

While ear infections, ear mites, foreign bodies, ear trauma, and allergic otitis are certainly the most common causes of head shaking in dogs, there can be other causes. 

Any disease that affects the ear, including rare autoimmune disorders and generalized skin issues, can lead to shaking of the head. 

In rare cases, your dog’s head shaking may even have a cause other than ear or skin disease. Determining the cause of your dog’s head shaking requires a thorough veterinary workup. 

What to Do if Your Dog Keeps Shaking His Head

A new onset of persistent head shaking in a dog should prompt a visit to the veterinarian. You don’t necessarily need to rush to the emergency veterinarian right away, because a single episode of head shaking could have a mild cause (like an insect bite). If the head shaking persists, however, you will want to have your dog examined within the next one to two days. 

A dog that shakes their head forcefully and for a prolonged period of time can actually damage their ear. Blood vessels in the ear can burst, filling the pinna (ear flap) with blood and resulting in a condition called an aural hematoma (ear hematoma), which is a blood blister. The pinnae can also become damaged by the force with which they hit your dog’s head and neck, leading to scabs and wounds on the ears. 

If your dog’s head shaking is caused by an ear infection, early treatment is more effective and will lead to more rapid resolution. Delaying treatment will not only prolong your dog’s discomfort, it could also make your dog’s ear infection more challenging and expensive to treat. 

Dog Shaking Head: Diagnosis and Treatment

Your veterinarian will likely begin by performing a thorough physical exam, looking for any other signs of illness or disease. Next, your veterinarian will focus on your dog’s ears. They will thoroughly examine your dog’s pinnae (external ear flaps), looking for wounds, inflammation, and other abnormalities. Next, they will perform an otoscopic exam, in which an otoscope (an instrument designed to permit evaluation of the ear canal) is used to provide a magnified view of your dog’s ear canals and ear drum. The otoscopic exam will allow your veterinarian to look for inflammation of the ear canals, debris in the ear canals, and any abnormalities associated with the eardrum. 

If your veterinarian sees any evidence of otitis or otherwise suspects a condition affecting your dog’s ears, an ear cytology will likely be recommended. This test involves removing a small sample of debris from the ear canal with a cotton swab, and then examining that debris under the microscope. An ear cytology can tell your veterinarian whether your dog has ear mites, a bacterial infection, or a yeast infection within the ears. If inflammatory cells are found in the absence of an infection, this can suggest the presence of allergic inflammation. 

Once your veterinarian has determined the cause of your dog’s ear inflammation, treatment will be prescribed. Most ear infections are treated with prescription ear cleaners and topical medications. Oral medications may also be prescribed, especially in dogs with underlying allergies. 

Some topical medications are applied by a veterinarian in the veterinary clinic. This alleviates the hassle of you having you medicate your dog’s ears at home, but requires you to return for follow-up treatments every one to two weeks until the infection has resolved. Other treatments are designed to be administered by a dog’s owner at home, once or twice daily. Your veterinarian will talk to about which treatment is best for your dog, and give you instructions for completing your dog’s course of treatment. If necessary, a veterinary technician may demonstrate how to clean and medicate your dog’s ears. A recheck appointment will likely be scheduled, so your veterinarian can ensure that the infection has resolved. 

If your dog’s otoscopic exam and ear cytology do not show any evidence of otitis, your veterinarian will talk to you about further recommended testing to determine the cause of your dog’s head shaking.

Related Conditions

• Otitis externa
• Ear mites
• Aural/ear hematoma

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One of the ways cats puzzle and delight humans is in how they cling to us and seemingly shadow us at all times. If you’re wondering: “Why does my cat follow me?” you’re not alone. Let’s get to the bottom of why they do it, what they are trying to communicate, and when it’s a problem.

Following Behavior in Cats: Why it Happens

In most cases, a cat following you around is considered normal behavior, especially when they share a close bond with you. 

Cats follow humans for multiple other reasons, including:

• Curiosity
• Attention-seeking behavior (they want cuddles and pets)
• Boredom
• Hunger
• Wanting to play
• Territorial behavior

Some breeds, including Ragdolls, Bengals, Maine Coons, Persians, Siamese, Tonkinese, and Sphynx are considered to be “velcro cats” that bond closely to their humans and may follow them more than other breeds. 

Why Does My Cat Follow Me Everywhere?

You are the center of your cat’s world and the keeper of all their resources, so it makes sense that your cat follows you around. In addition, your cat shares a strong bond with you, may be curious to what you are doing, may have insecurity, may want your attention, or may think that you will feed or play with them. They may also want access to a part of the house they are normally barred from entering. 

These are all normal reasons why cats may seemingly follow you everywhere. In some cases, your cat may follow you because they feel stressed or anxious about being separated from you. However, most of the time, your cat follows you because they want something or they are just curious about what you’re doing. 

Why Does My Cat Follow Me to the Bathroom?

While we don’t know for certain why cats like to follow people to the bathroom, there are some theories that make sense based on feline behavioral tendencies. One theory is that cats are territorial mammals that want to know what is going on inside their territory. And the bathroom (like the rest of the house) is considered part of your indoor cat’s territory. 

But cats may also venture into the bathroom with you because—let’s be honest—bathrooms have lots of fun things (including you) in them. Things like toilet paper rolls, dripping sinks, blinds on the windows, water in the toilet, towels on the floor, may be looked at as play things for our feline friends. Plus, in the bathroom, you’re a captive audience. 

Cats may also like the bathroom because it is full of things marked with your scent, which can be comforting. Another comforting and cozy part of the bathroom? Yep, the sink is often an alluring spot for your kitty to snooze. 

If your cat’s habits of following you to the bathroom are a problem for you, talk to your veterinarian or a feline behavior specialist on how to retrain your cat. 

My Cat Follows Me Everywhere and Sleeps with Me

If your cat follows you everywhere and sleeps with you, this is a sign that your cat is strongly bonded with you and, dare I say, loves you. In general, this isn’t an issue, but if your cat exhibits any signs of separation anxiety (see below) or if it is annoying to you, talk to your veterinarian or a certified feline behavior specialist on ways to get your cat interested in things other than you. 

Cats who sleep with their family should be given a monthly dewormer to reduce the risk of transmitting parasites to their family.

My Cat Follows Me Everywhere But Won’t Cuddle

Cats that follow their owners but don’t want to cuddle can be frustrating, especially if you want to get in some snuggles. 

Some reasons a cat may not enjoy physical contact include individual personality variations, a lack of adequate socialization during kittenhood, a history of being feral, or a previous negative experience associated with human physical touch. 

If this is the case, talk to a feline behavior specialist on how to help your cat become more comfortable with human touch. 

Why Does My Cat Follow Me and No One Else?

Cats form strong social ties with people and places. It could be that your cat shares a strong bond with you but hasn’t formed that bond with anyone else in your household. Other reasons may be that your cat is curious about what you are doing, may have insecurity or separation anxiety, or may associate resources, including food, play, treats, and toys, only with you and not other people. 

Should You Be Concerned About Your Cat Following You?

In general no, following behavior is considered normal feline behavior. One reason to be concerned is if your cat exhibits sudden, clingy behavior that wasn’t present before. 

This is usually due to something that is bothering the cat, and can include separation anxiety, something that has frightened the cat, or an underlying medical condition. 

Hyperthyroidism, diabetes, chronic pain from any source, or neurological conditions can all cause clingy, abnormal behavior. So, if your cat suddenly starts acting overly clingy, have your feline checked out by a local veterinarian to rule out any medical causes.  

How Can You Tell if Your Cat Has Separation Anxiety? 

While separation anxiety in dogs is a well documented condition, less is known about separation anxiety in cats. Separation anxiety in cats is triggered by being separated from a human or other animal with which the cat has a strong bond. Separation anxiety can range from mild to severe. Mild forms of separation anxiety may go unnoticed by humans, and severe forms can be misinterpreted as bad behavior—which it is not. 

You can tell if your cat has separation anxiety if you notice that your cat behaves differently when you prepare to leave. If your cat hides, meows more, follows you more, or tries to block you from leaving when you pick up your keys or purse, then your cat may have separation anxiety. 

Cats with separation anxiety are also known to exhibit the following behaviors when they are left alone:

• Urinating or defecating outside the litter box.
• Loud and frequent meowing.
• Destructive behavior, such as scratching furniture, curtains, or knocking things over.
• Vomiting and/or diarrhea.
• Excessive eating or not eating.
• Increased aggression with other cats in the household. 
• Excessive grooming, resulting in bald patches.
• Overly enthusiastic greeting when you come home.

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We asked a veterinarian to answer some of the most frequently asked questions surrounding canines and blueberries. Curious about whether blueberries are safe for dogs, if they impart any health benefits, and which blueberry-infused human foods are dog-friendly (or not)? Here’s everything you need to know. 

Can Dogs Eat Blueberries?

Yes! According to North Carolina-based veterinarian Dr. Judy Morgan, who specializes in integrative veterinary medicine, blueberries are a great alternative to store-bought goodies.

Naturally bite-sized, portable, and delicious, blueberries are safe to use as a reward while dog training. You could also use them as a fancy food topper for special occasions like birthdays or adoption anniversaries. 

Are Blueberries Good for Dogs?

“Blueberries are a very healthy treat and food addition for dogs,” says Morgan. 

A well-known “superfood,” blueberries are good for dogs, providing canines with some of the same health benefits they pass on to humans. For this reason, you might find this powerful berry on the ingredients list for some dog treats. (More on this later!) 

So, what are the benefits of blueberries for dogs? For one, they’re packed with anthocyanins, the fancy term for a type of antioxidant that fights free radicals or unstable atoms that destroy cells and speed up aging, says Morgan. 

Antioxidants help protect your pooch’s body and brain from these microscopic, destructive forces. This is especially key for older dogs. In fact, studies show a more antioxidant-rich diet can lower the effects of cognitive decline in seniors (1.)

Blueberries also offer up plenty of vitamin C and health-boosting plant-based nutrients, as well as fiber, which helps feed the beneficial bacteria in your dog’s gut that promote a healthy immune system, notes Morgan. 

For all the benefits attributed to blueberries, there are some that remain unproven. For example, blueberries are often credited with helping to cure urinary tract infections (UTIs) or remove tear stains from underneath your pup’s eyes. However, according to Morgan, the jury is still out.

“There’s little scientific evidence to support the use of blueberries to treat UTIs—but they won’t hurt, either,” says Morgan. 

As far as tear stain removal goes, these rust-colored marks can happen for a number of reasons—one of which may be bacteria on the surface of a dog’s eyes or skin. So changing your dog’s microbiome for the better with foods like blueberries could lead to improvements, says Morgan. But, again, there’s no research to back this up as a go-to treatment. 

Are Blueberries Bad for Dogs? 

Blueberries aren’t bad for dogs. Generally, they’re safe for puppies, adult dogs, and seniors, alike. If you have a particularly small dog, keep in mind that they could be a choking hazard—so consider chopping or mashing them up.

One potential downside: If you feed your pup very large quantities of blueberries, they could end up with an upset stomach or diarrhea, says Morgan. That’s why it’s important to think of blueberries as an occasional treat to be enjoyed in moderation…not served by the bucket-full. 

Blueberries and Dogs: Feeding Tips

It’s okay to feed your dog fresh or frozen blueberries. Both options are healthier choices than dried blueberries, which can be high in added sugar and preservatives. 

When preparing blueberries for your pup, wash them thoroughly with fresh water to remove any dirt or pesticides, just as you would for yourself, before serving them to your dog.  

If you’re wondering just how many blueberries your dog can eat (and how often), follow the 10 percent rule: About 90 percent of your dog’s diet should be devoted to a dog food that provides complete and balanced nutrition. The rest can go to snacks like dog-friendly fruits, veggies, and treats, including blueberries. 

Of course, what this portion looks like will depend on the size of your dog. “Anywhere from a few blueberries a day for very small dogs to up to ¼ cup twice daily for larger dogs should be fine,” says Morgan. 

As far as other treats go, consider most blueberry-based human foods off-limits for dogs. Don’t feed your little one baked goods like blueberry muffins or pancakes, which are often high in sugar and other ingredients that aren’t good for dogs, advises Morgan. The same goes for yogurt products with large amounts of added sugars or those containing artificial sweeteners, which can be toxic to dogs. 

When serving your pup blueberries for the first time, watch them closely to detect any signs of an adverse reaction. Be sure to consult with your veterinarian if you have any questions or concerns about including blueberries in your dog’s diet.  

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Luckily, a little knowledge goes a long way when it comes to preventing and handling this hairy issue. Here, Ani Corless, founder of the in-home dog grooming service Luxury Groomer, shares everything you need to know to keep your pet’s fur free of mats.

Matted Dog Hair: What Is It and How Does It Happen?

A mat is a tangle of fur that has gotten to the point that it needs proper brushing and combing out. “Most of the time, on a dog, a mat forms in the style of a webbing that goes all the way down to the skin,” says Corless. “It can look fine on top, but down at the skin the mat needs to be separated and combed out, or it will continue to get more and more tangled and knotted and can become tight to the skin.”

Unfortunately the beginning stages of matted dog hair can be very deceiving. “To the owner, the dog may look fine, but underneath the top coat, they might not be,” says Corless. 

Some of the biggest factors that contribute to matting include:

The texture of your dog’s hair. Soft fur is more likely to get matted easily, as opposed to dogs with wiry or coarse coats. 

Lifestyle choices. Anything that causes friction or rubs on your dog’s coat frequently—like clothing—can cause matting. 

Water. Water not only helps create mats, but it may also tighten existing mats and make them worse. “Unless you’re a professional groomer brushing your dog out thoroughly before and after a bath and combing down to their skin, you could just be causing the issue with baths,” says Corless.  

Why Is Matted Dog Hair a Problem?

Besides the aesthetic issue, a dog with matted hair may suffer from even more severe problems. 

Essentially, “their skin isn’t breathing,” says Corless, “which can cause sores, or trap things like fleas and ticks. Plus, if you’re bathing a dog with mats, they might not get properly dried, so mold can grow.” 

Many of these issues cause pain for dogs, as well. For example, some dogs that aren’t regularly groomed may have mats that grow to cover their eyes or rectal area, which can inhibit their ability to go to the bathroom properly and can lead to yeast infections. “In extreme situations, it can even cut off circulation on a limb, leading to amputation,” says Corless. “So, it’s not just aesthetic. If you let it get bad enough, it’s a health issue.”

How to Get Mats Out of Dog Hair

There are a few things you can try to do at home if your dog is suffering from mats, and some do’s and don’ts to keep in mind. 

Learn Proper Brushing Techniques 

When it comes to brushing, “you can have a groomer show you how to do it, or watch videos online on how to do it, as long as you watch videos specific to your breed.” A video that Corless created during the pandemic on proper dog grooming is a good place to start.  

Get the Right Tools

Corless suggests doing some research to determine the best brush for your specific breed. “Most need a slicker brush, as well as a comb, because no matter what brush you get, it’s only going over the top layer and not getting into that netting,” she added. 

Find the Right Spot

If you’re going to attempt to brush and comb a mat out of your dog’s hair, Corless suggests finding a spot, especially for smaller dogs, where you can put them up on something—like a counter or washing machine—to have better access and to keep them from running away and causing a battle. Just make sure they are secure. 

Avoid Shaving and Cutting 

Never shave or cut mats off your dog, as this can be very dangerous and may lead to you inadvertently cutting the skin. If you think either shaving or cutting is necessary, it is time to get a professional groomer involved so they can safely remove stubborn or large mats.

Be Selective With Home Remedies 

Although some products—like spray detanglers, oils and even cornstarch—might help a little bit, if you’re not properly trained in how to remove them, then you’re essentially just adding more moisture to the mat, which could make it worse. “Most of the time I say leave that stuff up to the groomer, unless your dog is only slightly knotted and you’d like to try a bath with a good conditioner before brushing,” she says. 

How to Prevent Mats in Dog Hair

Finding a maintenance haircut and grooming schedule that fits with your lifestyle is a good start to avoiding mats, and other than that, Corless suggests working with your groomer to have them demonstrate for you the proper brushing and combing techniques. 

It’s also important to consider your dog’s (and your) lifestyle, and to determine if you’ll really be more likely to cut something out of their life that causes mats (like swimming), or if you can bring them into the groomer as often as they might need to be professionally treated. 

If you realistically know that these things aren’t an option, then Corless suggests just keeping your dog’s hair as short as possible. “Length of hair contributes to mats developing, as well,” she says. “Any bit of length mats more quickly.”

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Monitoring your dog’s stool is one of the best things you can do to monitor their wellness. Changes to dog poop—whether it’s the color, consistency, coating, or contents—may indicate a change in your dog’s health.

Why is your dog’s poop yellow? We’ll help you make sense of what it means and what you should do.

What Color Should Dog Poop Be?

First things first—dog poop should be brown. The exact shade depends on what your dog eats. For example, dyes in your dog’s food can stain their feces a variation of that color. 

Feces is brown because of the breakdown of a substance called bile, which is an important part of digestion. Bile is made in the liver, stored in the gallbladder, and secreted into the intestines just as food exits the stomach and starts its way through the intestines. Most bile is reabsorbed as the food material is digested, but some gets trapped. It then undergoes changes as the food material is further digested into feces which cause the originally green material to turn yellow and then brown. 

Digestion of food into feces is a complex process. In addition to color, the consistency, coating, and contents are all important features of poop to consider when evaluating your pet’s health. Consistency refers to whether it’s firm, formed, soft, or liquid. Coating refers to whether there is mucus, blood, or both on the surface of the feces. The contents of feces should be fairly uniform. For example, finding blades of grass or pieces of a toy is abnormal. 

Why Is My Dog’s Poop Yellow?

Of all the colors poop can be besides the normal brown, yellow is usually one of the least concerning. 

Red or black dog poop is an emergency, while yellow poop is more like a warning sign. Here are some of the more common causes of yellow dog poop.

New Food

What your dog eats impacts the color of their feces. Some formulations of dog food have ingredients that make feces more yellow or a lighter shade of brown. Similarly, some types of food processing can alter the hue of feces. Switching between canned or moist food and dry kibble can also make feces look more or less yellow.

Incomplete Digestion

An upset stomach—from changing dog food or a dog eating something he doesn’t normally eat—can cause irritation in both the stomach and intestines. One of the ways the body handles this is to push the material out faster. Veterinarians refer to this as decreased transit time, the time it takes from eating a food to passing it as feces. 

Decreased transit time leads to softer feces that is yellow. The bile that is normally brown in feces hasn’t reached that stage yet and is still yellow (mustard-yellow to yellow-green). Similarly, this is why loose stool or diarrhea may be more yellow than usual.

Foreign Material

If your dog eats something yellow that isn’t food, it will end up in their feces (unless it causes an intestinal blockage, which is a greater cause for concern). For example, dogs cannot digest the yellow fuzz from a tennis ball and will pass it through the feces looking the same color as it went in.

Yellow Mucus

A slimy coating of yellow mucus on dog poop is due to intestinal inflammation. In healthy intestines there is a protective mucus layer between the food material and the intestinal lining. When there is inflammation or damage to the intestines, this mucus layer can be shed onto the food material and eventually the feces. 

In this case the yellow color comes from the bile involved in digestion. Intestinal inflammation can result from parasites, bacterial infection, food intolerance, or sharp objects such as sticks, rocks, and bones that your dog ate. If the intestinal damage is more severe, the mucus may have streaks of red blood or look an orange-yellow color. 

Yellow Specks or Strings

Yellow specks or dots are most often caused by one of two things: partially digested food like corn, or tapeworm eggs. Usually, these eggs look like grains of white rice but they may also have a yellow color. Yellow or white strings could be intestinal worms. If you see something that you think is abnormal in your dog’s feces, take a picture or bring a stool sample to your veterinarian. 

What to Do if Your Dog’s Poop Is Yellow

If you notice your dog’s poop is slightly yellow after recently changing their food, but they are otherwise eating and drinking and acting like themselves, monitoring them at home is okay.

On the other hand, if yellow poop is accompanied by other symptoms such as vomiting, not eating or eating less, reduced energy, or abnormal behavior, then you should have your dog evaluated by a veterinarian. Likewise, if yellow poop turns into watery diarrhea, it’s time for your dog to be examined by a professional.

Yellow dog poop that starts to turn orange or red is also a signal your dog needs to see the veterinarian immediately. 

Dogs with liver disease or other serious underlying diseases who have yellow feces need to see a veterinarian, as it could indicate worsening disease. 

If your dog needs to be seen by a veterinarian for their yellow poop, having a pet health insurance policy such as those offered by Lemonade could significantly ease the financial burden. With luck, your dog’s yellow poop may turn out to be no big deal. But if you need extensive testing or expensive treatments, that can add up. Lemonade offers plans you can customize to meet your dog’s health needs and your budget.

By monitoring your dog’s poop (color, consistency, contents, and coating), you can take a proactive approach to their health. Feces is one of the first signs of disease in many of the most common ailments of dogs. 

So, the next time you think picking up after your dog is a chore, think of it instead as an important part of being a proactive pet parent looking out for your dog’s health.

Dog Poop Color Chart

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So what does it mean when a dog’s nose seems dry, warm, or cracked? Most of the time, there’s a perfectly normal reason a dog has a dry nose. But, occasionally, it can be a sign of an underlying health issue. 

To help pet parents tell the difference, here’s everything you need to know about dog noses: what makes them wet, what it means if they’re not, and what to do if you notice your dog’s nose is warm and dry.

Should a Dog’s Nose Be Wet or Dry?

A dog’s nose is typically moist for several reasons: 

When it comes to smelling, wet noses work better. A thin layer of mucous over the nose helps the tissue attract and absorb scents. To further enhance their superior smelling abilities, dogs also lick their noses after sniffing. This act of licking transfers the trapped scents from the nose to their secondary smelling tool called the Jacobson’s organ. This specialized organ is located on the roof of the mouth and effectively allows dogs to “taste” the smells. Furthermore, by licking their noses, dogs are cleaning old scents away and keeping the nose moist and ready for fresh odors. 

Wet noses help regulate temperature. Dogs rely on evaporation as a primary way to cool themselves down in warmer weather. Unlike humans, dogs do not perspire, or sweat. Instead, they lower their body temperature by evaporating moisture from their tongues, nasal passages, and the lining of their lungs, cooling themselves as air passes over the moist tissue.

Dog noses are naturally moist. A dog’s tears drain from their eyes through their tear duct into their nasal cavity, providing even more mucous and moisture to their wet snouts. 

Canine noses are frequently moistened by exposure to wet objects. Dogs investigate closely with their noses, sticking them into things like damp grass, leaves, plants, and puddles. So moisture from the environment is often transferred onto a dog’s nose. When dogs drink, they tend to splash water up onto their nose and lick their lips and nose with their freshly moistened tongue. Some silly canines even fully submerge their nose in their water bowls when they go in for a drink. 

Causes of Dog Dry Nose

Although a dog’s nose is normally wet, a dry dog nose isn’t necessarily abnormal. The actual temperature and moistness of a dog’s nose can be affected by many external and internal factors. It can be helpful to think of a dog’s nose like a human’s lips. We don’t typically run to the doctor when we have chapped lips unless we notice something else going on. Therefore, the nose alone is not a good indicator of overall health. Some healthy dogs simply have noses that are naturally dryer than others, and sick dogs can have cool, wet noses, too.

Common reasons a dog might have a warm, dry nose—that are not cause for concern—include:

Environment

A dog’s living environment and climate have a big impact on the moisture of their nose, or lack thereof. In more humid environments, a dog’s nose will more easily retain its moisture, while in dry, arid environments, dog noses are more likely to dry out or even crack. Other factors, like wind, temperature, and cloud coverage, also directly affect your dog’s snout. For instance, on windy days, sunny days, and days that are either very hot or very cold, the nose will naturally be more dry and warm. 

Sunburn

Too much sun exposure can leave a dog’s nose dry and crusty. Dogs with pale or pink noses and thinner coats are the most susceptible to sunburn, but any dog can be affected if they bask in the warm sunshine for too long. 

Exercise

As we discussed, a dog’s nose helps regulate their temperature. When they’ve been exercising, the nose might feel warmer since they are using it as a means to cool down. Like humans, dogs also lose water while they exercise via metabolic processes and evaporative cooling. So they tend to be a little dehydrated after play sessions, which can leave the nose feeling a little dry. 

Sleeping

Dogs love to nap in warm places, which can raise their internal body temperature and make the nose feel warm. The nose is also usually drier after a nap since dogs aren’t licking their nose or drinking while they sleep. 

Age

Aging is another cause of a dry and crusty dog nose. As canines age, certain bodily functions slow down and become impaired, and their bodies simply don’t work like they used to. Old dogs produce less mucus, which makes their noses susceptible to dryness. 

Breed

Certain breeds, particularly brachycephalic or short-nosed breeds, are predisposed to having a dry, crusty, or cracked nose. Dogs with short muzzles, like Pugs and French Bulldogs, have difficulty licking their noses and don’t tend to put their nose in as many wet places since it is shorter and closer to their eyes. Other breeds, like the Lhasa Apso and Springer Spaniel, more frequently develop blocked tear ducts, which can also lead to a drier nose. 

Though less common, dry dog noses may also be the symptom of certain medical conditions, including:

Allergies

Just like humans, dogs can suffer from allergies that dry out their noses. The cause of the allergy can be related to food or, more commonly, something in the environment. Some dogs are more severely affected by allergies than others, so if your dog seems uncomfortable, your veterinarian can help you determine the cause of the allergy and prescribe medication to help relieve your dog’s allergies and dry nose.

Hyperkeratosis

Canine nasal hyperkeratosis is a condition caused by an overgrowth of skin cells, called keratin, on the surface of a dog’s nose. This buildup of extra tissue leaves the nose particularly crusty, dry, and cracked. Fortunately, this isn’t a serious medical condition on its own. However, pups that suffer from hyperkeratosis are prone to develop infections in the thickened tissue. In these cases, it’s always best to check with a veterinarian who can recommend at-home care and rule out other conditions that could be linked to it, such as the virus that causes canine distemper.

Autoimmune Diseases

Although not very common, autoimmune diseases that cause a dry dog nose are discoid lupus erythematosus or pemphigus. These diseases change the surface of your dog’s nose, causing it to dry out, crust, crack, and even bleed. A veterinarian would need to perform a skin biopsy to diagnose these diseases, and treatment typically requires a life-long course of medications. 

Dog Dry Nose and Other Symptoms: What to Watch For

Most of the time, a dry or warm nose is transient and will resolve within hours. If your pet is acting completely normal, wait a bit to see if their nose becomes moist and cool again before calling the veterinarian. 

On the other hand, you should consult with a veterinarian right away if the dry nose is accompanied by any other changes in your pet, such as:

• Sores and/or pus on or around the nose
• Nasal discharge from one or both nostrils
• Bleeding from one or both nostrils
• Lumps or bumps around the muzzle or nose
• Scratching or pawing at the face
• Discolored or dry gums 
• Vomiting and/or diarrhea
• Coughing and/or sneezing
• Lethargy or restlessness
• Loss of appetite or anorexia

As a general rule, if you notice any changes in the appearance of your dog’s nose that last longer than a few days, or if the dry nose is coupled with any other signs or symptoms, you should always err on the side of caution and seek veterinary care. 

Dog Dry Nose Treatment

In most cases, a dog’s dry nose is likely due to normal causes and will resolve on its own without any treatment. However, if the dry nose is linked to an underlying disorder or disease, your veterinarian may prescribe medications. Allergy medications, prescription ointments, antibiotics, steroids, and immunomodulators are all potential prescriptions your dog may need depending on the cause. 

If the nose is chronically dry and your veterinarian sees no signs of allergies or disease, you may need to use a prescription balm or salve to keep the nose comfortable. Home remedies and over-the-counter ointments can provide adequate relief and moisture for mild to moderate cases of dry dog nose. 

Popular home remedies include applying a few dabs of coconut oil, petroleum jelly, shea butter, or olive oil onto your dog’s nose several times a day. Over-the-counter nose butters and balms are also excellent options. 

Preventing Dry Nose in Dogs

While it isn’t always possible to prevent a dog’s nose from drying out due to natural causes, there are some simple proactive measures pet parents can take to retain as much moisture as possible. For instance, dog parents can run a humidifier indoors in dry weather, especially during cold winter months. Providing ample shade and shelter from the sun or wind can help prevent the crusting and chapping of a dog’s sensitive snout. Most importantly, it is essential to ensure that dogs always have access to fresh, clean water to prevent dehydration and overheating, which can contribute to dry dog noses. 

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For a long time, it was thought that dogs could only see in shades of gray. But now we know that’s simply not true. Dogs may not see exactly what we do when they look around. But they use all of their senses—including their vision—to take in a world that’s vibrant, colorful, and anything but dull. 

Dog Vision: Understanding Canine Eye Anatomy

Dogs’ eyes are structurally very similar to human eyes. The colored part is the iris, which surrounds the dark round pupil and controls how much light passes through that opening. Next, the light flows through the lens, a small ball of special fibers that bend and stretch to focus the light, projecting a sharp image onto the sensitive cells of the retina. 

Retinal cells come in two varieties: cones and rods. Broadly, cones detect color when there is adequate light. Rods detect movement and can function with very minimal light (night or dark rooms). All of these components are covered by the cornea, which is the clear dome that protects the front of the eye in both dogs and humans. 

There are also some important structural differences between dog eyes and human eyes. First is the nictitating membrane, commonly called the third eyelid, which dogs have and humans don’t. This is an extra band of tissue behind the lower eyelid that helps protect the eye from damage. 

Another key difference: Behind the retina, at the very back of the globe, dogs have something called the tapetum lucidum—a reflective layer that shines light back onto the retina in low light situations to help improve vision. At night you can see this as a white or blue reflection of the eyes when light is shined on them. Some dogs—especially those with blue eyes—may lack a tapetum lucidum and therefore experience the “red-eye” phenomenon in photographs, just like some people do. 

Dog Vision Facts and Answers

While humans are very visually-oriented creatures, dogs depend more on a combination of senses—smell, hearing, and vision—to navigate the world. But that doesn’t mean dogs are at a disadvantage when it comes to experiencing the world around them. Their sharp ears and superior sense of smell more than make up for any vision deficits in color perception or acuity. Dog eyes can also detect movement more easily and see better in low light, two adaptations that were important in their evolutionary history as dawn and dusk hunters.  

Do Dogs Have Night Vision?

In a pitch-black room, you and your dog would see the same thing: nothing. However, dogs are better able to see in low light than people. This is because they have more rod cells in their retina to pick up light. Humans have more cone cells in their retina, which are great for detecting color during the day but function poorly in low light. In dogs, the tapetum lucidum—a reflective surface behind the retina—also helps the rod cells to absorb more of any available light. Dogs cannot see any better than humans in total darkness but can see better in dim moonlight or a darkened room.

Can Dogs See Color? Are Dogs Colorblind?

Yes, dogs can see color. However, their color spectrum is smaller and less vibrant than what most humans can see. Here’s why: In the retina, cone cells are in charge of detecting color. Humans have three varieties (red, blue, and yellow) that combine to make all of the colors of our visual spectrum. This is known as trichromatic vision. Dogs, like many other mammals, lack the red-detecting cone cells and can only see from the yellow to the violet parts of the rainbow including shades of blue and green. This is called dichromatic vision and is comparable to what people who are red-green colorblind see. Dogs also may not be able to see the richness of colors as well as people can. 

How Far Can Dogs See?

Dogs are very good at detecting movement, even at long distances. However, their visual acuity is limited. Visual acuity is how clear images are at a given distance. For example, 20/20 vision means you can discern complex shapes at the set human standard. Dogs are estimated to have 20/75 vision, meaning they have to be 20 feet away to discern details that most people can see at 75 feet. Some breeds, including German Shepherds, Rottweilers, and Miniature Schnauzers are more likely to be near-sighted than other breeds. Typically this doesn’t impact how they interact with people and their environment. 

Do Dogs Have Depth Perception?

Depth perception is the ability to perceive the distance between objects and see them in three dimensions. In both humans and dogs, this is made possible by the overlapping visual fields of both eyes.  People generally have about 120-140 degrees of overlap (out of 200 degrees of vision where 360 would be a full circle) but dogs only have about 30-60 degrees of overlap, meaning canine depth perception is about half as acute as it is in humans.

Because dogs’ heads come in so many shapes, depth perception differs between breeds. Long-nosed breeds such as Greyhounds have less depth perception than dogs with shorter faces and more forward-facing eyes such as Pugs. The trade-off is an enhanced field of view. Eyes on the side of the head allow dogs to see more of the world at once, as much as 270 degrees. 

Cat Vision vs. Dog Vision: Key Differences

Overall, cat and dog vision is very similar. But there are a few key differences that largely relate to behavioral distinctions between dogs and cats. The first thing you might notice when comparing dog eyes and cat eyes is that cats have a vertical pupil while dogs have a round one. It is theorized that this may be due to the fact that cats are ambush predators, as the shape may aid in detecting depth and movement. Cats are even more near-sighted than dogs, which makes sense because keen up-close eyesight is more important to a hunter who waits to pounce. To improve the accuracy of that pounce, cats are also equipped with better depth perception. Dogs seem to have better color detection than cats. 

Common Dog Vision Problems

Most dog vision problems are temporary and easily treatable by a veterinarian. But that doesn’t mean you should dismiss potential eye issues or postpone treatment. Eyes are sensitive and irreplaceable, so it is important to have your veterinarian examine your dog if you have any concerns.

Here are some of the most common eye issues dogs face:

• Cloudy Lens – Lenticular sclerosis, or a soft haziness of the lens, is normal in dogs as they age. It does not cause a problem and does not need to be treated. 
• Corneal Ulcers – Scratches or irritation to the covering of the eye. Usually easily treated by a veterinarian with medication but can become chronic especially in short-faced (brachycephalic) breeds.
• Entropion and Ectropion – Rolling in or out (respectively) of the eyelid. This can irritate the cornea.
• Dry Eye – When dogs do not produce enough of the liquid component of tears, material can build up on the eye. The medical term for this is keratoconjunctivitis sicca (KCS). It is treated with life-long application of eye drops or daily pills, depending on the cause. 
• “Cherry Eye” – A chronically elevated third eyelid that is visible above the lower eyelid. This is most common in short-faced dogs. Depending on the cause, severity, and duration it may be treated medically or surgically. 
• Cataracts – When the lens of the eye becomes increasingly opaque, causing blurry vision. Just like in people, dogs can have cataract surgery to remove the damaged lens and restore vision. Some cataracts are caused by diseases such as diabetes. 
• “Tear Staining” – Though not truly a disease of the eye, many dogs develop moist staining below the eye. This is due to ineffective or incomplete draining of the tear ducts. Tear staining can lead to skin infections around the eye. Gently wiping the area daily with a clean soft cloth can reduce the risk of infection.

There are less common and breed-specific eye problems that can affect dogs, including different types of blindness. If you purchase a pure-bred dog it is important to have their eyes evaluated or their genes tested if the breed is known to have eye problems. 

How to Protect Your Dog’s Eyes

The most important thing you can do to protect your dog’s eyes is to take them to the veterinarian immediately if you have any concerns. Common signs of a problem include rubbing, squinting, discharge, elevated third eyelid, and redness. Common signs of vision loss include being hesitant to jump onto or off furniture, bumping into things, and squinting in the sun. Any of these signs means a veterinarian should evaluate your dog’s eyes. 

Time is a factor when treating eye problems. The longer you wait to have your dog evaluated by a veterinarian, the more risk there is of permanent damage.

Remember, your regular veterinarian can perform a full ophthalmic exam and provide appropriate medication or treatment. Sometimes a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist is needed to fully address the problem or provide the solution. But as long as you maintain regular checkups and alert your veterinarian as soon as you notice any potential eye issues, your dog’s eye health and vision should be in good hands.  

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Your sweet housecat is more likely to spend their time stalking stuffed toys and devouring kibble than tearing into tough prey. However, your cat’s teeth are just as essential to their anatomy as they were for their ancestors. 

Cat Teeth Anatomy: A Basic Overview

Your cat’s teeth are made up of several distinct components. The portion of the tooth above the gum line is called the crown. It’s covered in a hard, protective coating known as enamel that protects the dentin—the softer part of the tooth underneath. 

The portion of the tooth below the gum line is called the root. It’s covered in a thin layer of dental tissue called cementum. Inside the tooth, the portion called the pulp is made up of nerves and blood vessels. 

How Many Teeth Do Cats Have?

The number of teeth in your cat’s mouth depends on their age, according to Dr. Bruce Kornreich, diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine and director of the Cornell Feline Health Center. 

Kittens are born without teeth. Within two to four weeks, their deciduous teeth—also known as milk teeth—start growing. Within eight weeks, kittens typically have around 26 teeth. And by the time they are 6 months old, kittens typically have a full set of 30 “adult” or permanent teeth: 12 incisors, 10 premolars, four molars, and four canine teeth. 

Kornreich notes that all adult cats, regardless of breed, have the same number of teeth.

Do Cats Lose Baby Teeth?

Yes, kittens do lose their teeth. Deciduous teeth start falling out around 3 months of age but kittens have such tiny teeth, you may never even notice that they are missing or have been replaced with adult teeth. 

Do Cats Lose Teeth?

While all kittens lose their baby teeth, Kornreich notes that it’s possible for adult cats to lose teeth, too.

Dental disease is one of the most common reasons cats could lose their teeth.

“Periodontal disease starts with gingivitis or accumulation of plaque on the teeth, which provides an environment where bacteria can grow,” says Kornreich. “It causes an inflammatory response in the tissue around the tooth… and compromises the supporting structures that attach the tooth root to the bone, leading to tooth loss.”

Trauma from car accidents, falls, and fights can also cause cats to break or lose their teeth.

5 Surprising Cat Teeth Facts

Different teeth have different jobs. 

Cats have four different kinds of teeth: incisors, canines, premolars, and molars. And most types of cat teeth have different jobs, according to Kornreich. 

Cats use their canine teeth to puncture skin and grab their prey. They tear off pieces of prey and grind them up with their premolars and molars. And cats depend on their incisors—the small teeth between the canine teeth—to pick things up and help with grooming.

Toothless cats can still eat. 

In the wild, cats depend on their teeth to capture and devour prey. Losing those teeth can put a wild cat’s life at risk since they could easily starve. But domesticated cats with no teeth can still gobble up bowls of kibble at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 

“Domesticated cats don’t have to catch their cat food,” Kornreich says. “Domesticated cats, even with full mouth extractions, can still eat; they may develop a preference for wet food, but, in some cases, they’ll even eat dry food.”

Cats don’t get cavities.

The term “cavities” conjures up black holes that need to be drilled out and filled; cats don’t get these kinds of cavities.

“Cats don’t have horizontal tooth surfaces, so they don’t develop dental cavities in the same way that people do,” Kornreich explains.

Cats can get feline odontoclastic resorptive lesions (FORLs). These painful “cat cavities” occur at or below the gum line and are the result of tooth resorption, not decay. The Canadian Veterinary Medical Association reports that FORLs are on the rise, perhaps due to factors such as diet, chronic disease, inflammation, or genetics (1). Often the lesions go undetected, but they can cause symptoms like pain, excess salivation, tooth loss, and trouble eating.

Cats can get other dental diseases. 

Cats are susceptible to a variety of dental diseases. In fact, studies show that up to 90 percent of cats over 4 years old suffer from dental conditions, including (2):

• Gingivitis: red, swollen, and painful gums
• Periodontitis: irreversible swelling of the gums and weakening of the jawbone, which can lead to tooth loss
• Tooth resorption: the breakdown of the tooth structure, also a cause of tooth loss. 

Each of these diseases can cause issues ranging from pain and discomfort to appetite loss and infection.

You might not notice dental disease. 

Some cats are quite stoic and might hide the signs of dental disease or pain. Be on the lookout for symptoms such as excessive drool, bad breath, blood-tinged saliva, preference for wet food, or loss of appetite.

“The biggest surprise is when people realize how advanced their cat’s oral disease is,” Kornreich adds. “If you’re not looking for symptoms, they can be subtle and you may not notice anything is even wrong.”

Taking Care of Cat Teeth: Tips and Advice

Good oral health starts with a good diet. Several studies have found that cats fed dry food diets had better oral health than those fed wet foods (3). 

In addition to feeding your cat a complete and balanced diet, Kornreich recommends establishing a dental care routine at home. Yes, that means brushing your cat’s teeth daily.

“Most cats will tolerate having their teeth brushed if you start when they’re young and get them used to it,” he adds.

Skip the tube of toothpaste in your medicine cabinet, which could contain ingredients that could be harmful to cats. Instead, choose products that have been approved for cats (the Veterinary Oral Health Council seal is a good indicator that a toothpaste is safe for your cat). There are even toothbrushes designed for cats.

There are also a number of dental chews on the market. One study found that cats who received dental chews in addition to their dry food diet for four weeks had less plaque and tartar on their teeth and less severe gingivitis than cats who were fed dry food alone (4).

Cats should receive regular oral exams during their veterinary visits. The American Animal Hospital Association recommends that kittens receive complete oral exams to check for “missing, unerupted or slow-to-erupt teeth,” as well as baby teeth that fail to fall out in time (which could make it harder for permanent teeth to come in at the right positions) (5). 

“Many cats may need regular professional dental cleanings,” Kornreich says. If you’re not sure what kind of care or cleaning your cat’s teeth need, check with your veterinarian. According to  Kornreich, “Monitoring for dental disease is an important part of any normal veterinary visit.”

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While some veterinarians tout the nutritional benefits of bones, many others warn of potential safety issues. Between 2010 and 2017, the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) received reports of 90 dogs who had become sick or injured after eating bone treats (processed bones sold as dog treats) (1). Symptoms varied widely—everything from choking, vomiting, and mouth cuts to gastrointestinal blockage, rectal bleeding, diarrhea, and even death. 

Of course, it’s always best to talk to your veterinarian when deciding whether to feed your dog any type of bone or raw food diet. But to help you navigate the issue, we asked veterinarians on both sides of the debate for their insights about the benefits and risks of feeding your dog bones. 

Are Bones Good For Dogs?

Veterinarians who support the practice of feeding your dog an occasional bone cite two primary benefits: 

Nutritional Benefits of Bones for Dogs

Bones are a good source of calcium and phosphorus, both of which play a role in supporting the development of strong bones and muscles. However, a dog who’s fed a complete and balanced diet—formulated according to standards set by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO)—doesn’t need additional minerals, says Dr. Lindsey E. Bullen, diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition and veterinary nutritionist at BluePearl Specialty + Emergency Pet Hospital in Raleigh-Durham, North Carolina. In fact, a surplus of these nutrients could cause other medical problems. “For example, excessive calcium can result in hypercalcemia and calcium oxalate urolithiasis/urinary stones,” Bullen explains.

While it may seem natural and beneficial to feed your pup meaty bones similar to the ones their ancestors may have eaten in the wild, keep in mind that dogs diverged from wolves tens of thousands of years ago… as did their dietary needs. 

According to Bullen, “Just because wolves eat bones doesn’t mean our pets should.” Wolves, she says, eat bones because they have fewer options. “I would no more recommend feeding my kids like their ancient Neanderthal cousins than I would recommend my dog being fed like a wolf, even though she is a Shepherd.”

Dental Benefits of Bones for Dogs

Bones can promote dental health and satisfy a dog’s natural urge to chew, says Dr. Laurie S. Coger, an integrative and functional medicine veterinarian and founder of Healthy Dog Workshop and Healthy Dog Expo. According to Coger, “Thoughtfully chosen bones, appropriate for a dog’s size and chewing style, are great for dogs.” 

In a study published in the Australian Veterinary Journal, of the eight Beagles evaluated, those who were fed raw bovine bones had a reduction in dental calculus of up to 87.8 percent (2). However, according to veterinarians, the flipside is that munching on bones can result in dental fractures, as well as other injuries such as gum lacerations and choking. And because dogs don’t easily digest bones, ingesting them can result in blockage of the small intestine.

Though the study’s researchers found no evidence of tooth fractures, gastrointestinal obstructions, or pieces of bone stuck between the Beagles’ teeth, they reported that the bone was diminished to smaller pieces, and in some cases completely eaten. 

Do crushed and ground bones make a difference?

Crushed and ground bones can reduce the risk of obstruction and cuts, provided that the final components are ground so small they won’t block the gastrointestinal tract, says Bullen. However, there’s a difference between crushed or ground bones and those that are broken down into small chunks. “If the bones are broken down to smaller pieces, there can be a risk of GI obstruction and perforation, which is a surgical and life-threatening emergency,” Bullen adds.

Can Dogs Eat Bones?

A number of veterinarians agree the risks of eating bones outweigh the benefits for dogs. 

“I am sure there are millions of dogs who have chewed on a bone and lived to tell the tale,” says Colorado-based veterinarian Dr. Sarah J. Wooten. “But, as a veterinarian, I always get to treat the dogs that didn’t have such a safe and enjoyable time. And I would like to save each and every one of those dogs the pain and suffering associated with bone chewing gone wrong.” 

As a general rule, holistic veterinarian and founder of Pet Synergy Dr. Anna Maria Wolf recommends large-sized marrow bones (also known as leg bones) because they’re less likely to splinter and break off into smaller pieces. 

There are some exceptions to this rule, however.  Here’s a breakdown of some of the most popular types of bones.

Can Dogs Eat Chicken Bones?

Chicken marrow bones are small, which increases the risk of blockage. Additionally, “cooked chicken bones can splinter and cause damage to the digestive tract and should never be fed,” says Wolf. “Feeding raw chicken bones also presents some risks.” Therefore, chicken bones should never be fed to dogs. If your dog does somehow ingest chicken bones, or any other type of bones, stay vigilant for any signs or symptoms that could indicate a potential problem.

Can Dogs Eat Rib Bones?

Rib bones are larger than chicken bones, but Wolf generally doesn’t recommend them for dogs. “They are more likely to splinter and can be swallowed and cause choking,” she warns. They also contain too much saturated fat for dogs, putting them at risk of pancreatitis. Rib bones are also one of the offenders listed in the FDA’s report on injuries and illnesses suffered by dogs who ate certain bone treats. 

Can Dogs Eat Ham Bones?

Wolf doesn’t recommend ham bones because they tend to splinter. Ham bones are also considered too high in fat for a dog’s nutritional needs. They’re also listed in the FDA’s report as a category of bone treats that caused injury or illness to dogs.

Can Dogs Eat Turkey Bones?

Turkey marrow bones are larger than chicken bones. However, that doesn’t necessarily make them a safer choice. “Many people feed them as part of a raw food diet,” says Wolf. “But it is important to be aware that they can cause choking and obstruction. It’s also crucial (as with chicken or any bone) to avoid contamination and be aware of the risks,” she adds.

Can Dogs Eat Steak Bones?

The advantage of raw steak bones is that they’re harder than most other types of animal bones, so are less likely to splinter than, say, a chicken or turkey marrow bone. However, “I don’t recommend these due to the size and the risk of choking and obstruction,” says Wolf.

Another reason not to let dogs eat steak bones, says Wooten, is the risk of pancreatic inflammation due to the high fat content.

Can Dogs Eat Lamb Bones?

Provided they’re large leg bones, they’re ok to use, says Wolf. Just “make sure they are the right size—larger than the muzzle—for your dog.”

Can Dogs Eat Pork Chop Bones?    

Veterinarians recommend against feeding dogs pork bones because of the increased risk of injury. “I generally avoid pork bones, as they do seem to break off and pose an obstruction risk,” says Coger. Pork femur bones are on the FDA’s list of bone treats that caused injury or illness to dogs. 

Bones for Dogs: Raw vs. Cooked 

Raw and cooked bones present different types of hazards.

Can Dogs Eat Raw Bones?

A primary risk associated with raw bones (or any raw food diet for dogs) is the potential for bacterial contamination. The American Veterinary Medical Association discourages feeding cats and dogs any meat that has not been adequately cooked to destroy harmful pathogens (3).  

Raw bones have a significantly increased risk of harboring bacteria and parasites, including E. coli, Salmonella, Listeria, and Campylobacter, says Bullen. 

“Bacterial contamination can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs, and it can be dangerous for humans with reduced immune systems,” adds Wooten.

Can Dogs Eat Cooked Bones?

Cooking does kill potentially harmful bacteria, so in that regard, they’re preferable to raw bones, says Bullen. “However, cooking can cause bones to splinter or break more easily because it starts to soften and break down the bone. This increases the risk of gastrointestinal obstruction and/or perforation caused by splintered bone fragments.”

Bone Safety Tips for Dog Parents

If you’d like to feed your dog an occasional bone, here are some veterinarian-approved guidelines to help you do so safely.

Start With Your Veterinarian

Wolf, who feeds bones to her own dogs, admits it’s a tough decision to make for pet parents, which is why she strongly recommends working with a veterinarian. 

Your veterinarian understands your dog’s medical history and can best determine if bones are conducive to their good health. “Dogs with immune system issues, for example, or who are on immunosuppressive medications should not eat bones. Or for dogs with other health conditions such as IBD (inflammatory bowel disease), bones would not be recommended,” explains Wolf.

Work with a Veterinary Nutritionist

Consult a veterinary professional with extensive training in pet nutrition. “If a person wants to feed raw bones, I recommend working with a board-certified veterinary nutritionist to formulate the diet,” says Wooten.

Always Supervise Chew Time

Animals should always be supervised when chewing any object, recommends Bullen. “If the bone (or toy, or whatever it may be) fractures, the pet should not be allowed to consume it, and it should be thrown away.” 

Be aware that dogs can be possessive of bones, adds Wolf.  “Some dogs are very obsessive and will grind their teeth down by chewing too much and chewing off chunks of bone. So for those dogs, I would probably avoid bones altogether or only provide them for short times with supervision.”

Know When to ‘Size Up’

Generally, it’s a good idea to “size up” any chew item you offer your pet, offers Bullen. “A dog should not be able to get their jaw around it, but rather should have to gnaw on it from the side,” she explains.

Keep in mind that even larger dogs can become injured from eating bones improperly, says Wolf. “So consult with your veterinarian to determine if they are able to eat bones.”

Prepare it Properly

Avoid serving cooked bones, as they can easily splinter and break apart. Coger says you should also never feed your dog frozen bones. “It makes the bone very hard and poses a tooth breaking risk.”

Bones can be crushed or ground with meat, provided they’re ground up small and don’t have any sharp pieces, says Wolf. “This is safer as far as choking and chewing damage, but also loses some of the advantages, such as behavioral benefits and teeth cleaning.”

Bone Alternatives for Dogs

Other products—like antlers and pig ears—exist on the market, but Bullen recommends avoiding these alternative animal chews. “They can potentially be contaminated and tend to have many extra, empty calories, which causes obesity and results in an unbalanced diet.”

A durable chew toy is a great alternative to animal bones, says Bullen. “Speak with your veterinary dentist and/or your veterinarian, as they likely have safe chew toy recommendations.”

Though it won’t satisfy your dog’s need to chew, bone broth is another healthy option to consider, and “They might be a safer option where bones could be a concern,” says Wolf. Potential benefits of bone broth for dogs include improved joint health, immune support, a good source of essential minerals, and support for digestive health.

As always, ask your veterinarian if any of these options are appropriate for your dog. There’s no doubt that your pup deserves a treat from time to time. Knowing all the facts and consulting with a trusted pro ensures you can make the best decision for your pet.

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There are a number of plant-based protein sources that can be incorporated into your pet’s diet. However, the best kind of vegan dog food is one formulated by a veterinary nutritionist or from a reputable commercial food brand that meets the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) regulations.  

Keep reading to learn about the pros and cons of a vegan diet for dogs, and a  breakdown of plant-based protein sources featured in vegan dog foods. 

How Much Protein Does a Dog Need?

Similar to humans, dogs need protein in their bodies to help run everything smoothly. When consumed in the right quantities, protein helps build and repair muscles, grow and maintain tissues, and helps with essential activities throughout the body. Although the exact protein intake differs by breed and weight, it’s imperative that a balanced diet with the right protein is fed to the dog for optimal well being.

According to Dr. Michelle Burch, veterinarian at Safe Hounds Pet Insurance, the rule of thumb for meeting the protein requirement for dogs is “to feed 1 gram of protein per pound of current body weight.” To prevent protein deficiency, AAFCO recommends protein ingestion of 4.5 grams/100 kcal for adult dogs and 5.63 grams/100 kcal for pregnant or nursing dogs and puppies. 

“Adequate protein ensures strength in muscles, skin, and fur while also playing an important role in managing hormones and enzymes for bodily functions to keep the immune system strong,” says Minneapolis-based animal nutritionist Ashii Vrohidis. 

There are 10 specific amino acids (building blocks of proteins) that are essential for dogs. They are typically derived from top protein sources such as chicken, beef, and pork. These proteins are easily digestible and widely available. (Learn more about a dog’s protein requirements here: Protein for Dogs: Everything You Need to Know).

However, dogs can have an intolerance to certain proteins, most commonly chicken, beef, and eggs. In these instances, limited-ingredient, hypoallergenic, or vegan dog foods can be considered.

It’s important to note that not all sources of protein are created equal; ingesting too little protein can cause health issues for the pet. When a dog is not getting enough protein, it can lead to “weight loss, insatiable hunger, lethargy, and sometimes vomiting and diarrhea,” according to Dr. Lorelei Wakefield, an animal welfare veterinarian and long-time ethical vegan. “If you suspect your dog has protein deficiency (which can occur on any diet), please see your veterinarian. It can typically be diagnosed with a simple blood test.”

On the other hand, if a dog is consuming too much protein, it can cause weight gain. Dogs with kidney or liver disease should not intake excessive protein, as it can worsen the disease, Burch adds. 

Can Dogs Be Vegan?

Dogs are omnivores and can eat a vegan diet so long as protein sources and other nutritional requirements are met.   

“Most healthy dogs will maintain adequate blood protein on a plant-based diet. Some dogs, though, are unable to digest certain proteins well,” says Wakefield. She explains that there is confusion as to whether dogs can eat a vegan diet; they are often classified taxonomically as carnivores, “due to their dental structure and intestinal length, while they are physiologically omnivores. Their digestive systems have adapted, as they have evolved alongside humankind, eating our foods such as starches.” 

Vrohidis, however, says that while plant-based protein can provide “a multitude of vitamins and minerals and help initially lower cholesterol, weight loss, and rectify liver issues, they do not contain the proper absorption for normal canine bodily functions.”  

If your dog has allergies and/or food sensitivity to meat and eggs, and you are considering a vegan dog food, it can be helpful to seek advice from a board-certified veterinary nutritionist. “A boarded veterinary nutritionist will help choose the best vegan diet for your pet or create a specialized homemade recipe ensuring your pet is eating all of the vital nutrients needed for long and healthy life,” recommends Burch. 

Vegan Dog Food Benefits and Risks 

A major benefit of vegan dog food is the treatment of food allergies, which manifest in the form of skin and ear inflammation and infections. “Plant-based dog food tends to be low in common dietary allergens and can help clear up itchy skin and ears,” says Wakefield.  

“We often see increased energy and I have also heard reports of better joint health and even decreased tear staining,” adds Wakefield. Other benefits include avoiding foods containing hormones and antibiotics that are present in some meats. 

Potential risks of a vegan dog diet include “soft stool (typically temporary) and low protein, if your dog has trouble digesting plant-based food,” Wakefield says. 

A vegan diet for dogs may also be associated with canine heart disease known as non-hereditary dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM), although there is insufficient conclusive data at this time. “The most recent information released by the FDA based on their investigation shows a high correlation of (non-hereditary) DCM with diets with a high concentration of peas or lentils,” says Burch (1). A new August 2021 investigation of diets associated with DCM in dogs found that peas had the most significant link to compounds that could be tied to the disease (2). 

Burch also warns that vegan diets can be “deficient in amino acids, including leucine, methionine, methionine-cystine, and taurine, which are all needed to maintain health.” She recommends working with a veterinary nutritionist who can “formulate a complete and balanced diet to prevent any adverse effects from a deficient diet.”

Vegan Dog Food: 7 Protein Sources to Know

Most plant-based proteins are not complete amino acids. Instead, they contain limiting amino acids, such as lysine, threonine, methionine, and tryptophan. According to Vrohidis, these protein sources are meant “to be consumed with a different plant-based protein that is rich in a complementary amino acid for absorption.” Foods with limiting amino acids include beans, grains, corn, peas, potatoes, and legumes. 

Below are seven common plant-based protein sources that are included in vegan dog foods:

Soy

Soy is a protein sourced from soybeans that is commonly found in dog foods. As long as your dog does not have a diagnosed soy allergy, this protein-rich meat substitute can be a good option, because it is also high in dietary fiber, vitamins, and minerals. Half a cup of cooked textured soy protein has 11 grams of protein.

Quinoa

Quinoa is a nutrient-rich seed, despite often being referred to as a grain. Vrohidis says quinoa is “your safest plant-based complete protein, which has less protein by volume compared to its animal counterparts.” One cup of cooked quinoa provides 8.14 grams of protein. 

Buckwheat

Despite its name, buckwheat is not wheat; it’s actually a gluten-free seed packed with iron, copper, potassium, and magnesium. While not as high in protein as quinoa, buckwheat is another plant-based source of complete protein. A cooked cup provides 3.38 grams of protein. 

Chickpeas

These legumes, also known as Garbanzo beans, are easily digestible, rich in carbohydrates and protein, and full of fiber. A cup of cooked chickpeas has a whopping 20 grams of protein.  

Barley

While it doesn’t have as much protein as quinoa, barley is still a good source of protein (with 3.55 grams of protein per cup). It’s a cereal grain that is low in cholesterol and high in fiber. 

Oats

Oats, which are grains from the cereal plant, Avena Sativa, are a good source of fiber and protein. They make a good alternative to wheat. One cup of whole grain rolled oats has 10 grams of protein. 

Green Peas

Peas are an excellent source of protein, fiber, vitamins, and minerals. One cup of peas provides close to 8 grams of protein. While experts say there is no reason to completely avoid dog foods that contain high quantities of peas at this time, it’s worth using caution until researchers determine the exact cause of DCM.

Homemade Vegan Dog Food

Vegan diets are often challenging to design and formulate; they may not meet all of the dog’s dietary needs if done without consultation from a veterinarian nutritionist. 

Alternatively, a quality commercial vegan dog food that meets the AAFCO requirements to ensure that the appropriate amount of protein is ingested, can be given to the dog. However, a study of 24 commercial vegan or vegetarian diets in 2015 concluded most diets were not compliant with AAFCO labeling regulations (3). “Many had concerns regarding adequate amino acid content,” says Burch. It’s important to read product labels and/or contact the company before switching your dog’s diet. 

Vegan Diet for Dogs: Other Considerations 

You may be considering vegan dog food for ethical reasons. However, Burch reminds pet parents that “if the diet is not tailored specifically for your dog with a veterinary nutritionist, this can create significant health problems.”   

The FDA suggests reviewing the ingredient list on your pet’s food to see whether legumes like peas or lentils, other legume seeds (pulses), and/or potatoes are listed as one of the main ingredients, and to work with your veterinarian prior to making any changes in your dog’s diet (1). 

If your dog has food allergies and cannot consume certain animal proteins, work with your veterinarian to choose the best diet for your pet that will ensure he gets all the nutrients, minerals, and vitamins he needs to be healthy.   

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Shows of affection are a great thing, but a cat demanding attention on a regular basis could be symptomatic of anxiety, stress, fear, or an underlying medical problem—all of which merit a call to your veterinarian for further consideration and treatment. We asked cat experts to help explain the difference between an overly affectionate cat and one who’s become too dependent on you, what may be causing the clinginess, and ways to address the behavior. 

Can Cats Be Obsessed With Their Owners?

If you sometimes feel as if your pet is your shadow, it may not be a sign of obsession as much as it is your cat’s need to feel safe and secure. 

This was one of the findings of the OSU study, in which researchers had each cat spend two minutes in a room with their human, followed by two minutes alone, then two minutes back together as a reunited team. About 65 percent of the kittens studied were labeled securely attached based on their ability to balance their attention between their human and the room. However, the rest of the cats displayed more signs of stress and either avoided their humans or clung to them—classic signs of insecure attachment.

Cats differ in how they show affection, says Pam Johnson-Bennett, certified cat behavior consultant, best-selling author, and owner of Nashville-based Cat Behavior Associates. “Some cats enjoy being physically close and display obvious signs of attachment, such as licking, cuddling, rubbing against their human, bunting, or curling up in a warm and cozy lap. Some cats show attachment and affection by being near their human or at least being in the same room. They may not feel the need to be in physical contact with a family member, but enjoy the companionship and connection.” 

If your cat wants your attention, that isn’t necessarily a problem. But if your cat needs your attention because they’ve become overly dependent on you, that could be a problem. “Some cats can show a concerning amount of attachment to their human and, as a result, experience separation anxiety when that person isn’t present,” says Bennett. 

Why Is My Cat So Clingy?

There really aren’t all that many studies on clinginess and separation anxiety in felines, but our experts offer a few thoughts on what may be causing your cat to cling.

An Underlying Illness

“Cats can be more clingy when underlying medical conditions are making them feel ill and they seek out comfort,” says Dr. Sasha Gibbons, an associate veterinarian at Just Cats Veterinary Hospital in Stamford, Connecticut. 

While a kitty curled up by your feet for long stretches of time may just be enjoying your company, such behavior might also be due to lethargy, which could be a sign of any number of illnesses, including hypertrophic cardiomyopathy, plant poisoning, and anemia.  

Changes in the Home Environment

“Changes in the home environment or confusing changes to the family may lead a cat to attach too much to one person,” says Bennett. Cats are super sensitive to change, so what may seem insignificant to you can be a big deal for your cat. Even a litter box that’s been moved from its usual spot can cause stress in cats.

According to Bennet, other potential factors to consider include a schedule or relationship change, a new baby or pet in the home, or disruption affecting the person who typically responds to the cat’s solicitations and requests. 

If that response pattern changes—say, if you suddenly return to a job outside the home after spending lots of time with your pet during the pandemic—it may be confusing and unsettling to your cat.

Stress and Trauma 

Kittens who were orphaned, weaned, or separated from littermates too early are at a higher risk of displaying clinginess, says Bennett. Other causes of cat anxiety include stress or fear resulting from former abuse or a lack of proper socialization during kittenhood, especially during the first two to three months of life. 

More recent or immediate trauma may also be the culprit. “Cats can become clingy or needier for emotional reasons, such as if they are afraid of an animal outside, a storm, construction, or had a recent traumatic event,” offers Gibbons. Fireworks displays are notorious for sending a cat’s anxiety levels skyrocketing, so to speak. 

Not Enough Enrichment

In a study published in the scientific journal PLoS One, researchers discovered that cats without access to toys often displayed behavior consistent with separation anxiety (2). Toys help cats express their hunting instinct, which is an important part of who they are. 

Toys alone probably won’t fix an insecure cat, though. Being left alone too often may cause a cat to become too attached to a human and feel secure only when that person is around, says Bennett.

Too Many Cats in the Home

“In a multi-pet environment where a cat doesn’t feel safe or secure, that may cause them to find comfort only when a pet parent or family member is nearby,” says Bennett.  

This is one of the reasons why experts recommend that pet parents provide ample hiding spaces, separate litter boxes, and food dishes for homes with more than one cat. If basic needs for food and shelter are met, cats are more likely to feel secure.

Clingy Cat: Is It Normal?

There’s a difference between an occasionally demanding cat and outright dependence. One way to tell the difference is to observe how your cat acts when you’re not in sight. “There are a wide variety of ways cats and humans share a close bond, and it stays within the guidelines of being healthy if the cat can still display normal, secure behavior when the human family isn’t present or in sight,” Bennett says. 

Also, pay attention to other potential signs of stress and illness. “Look for changes in litter box habits, changes in appetite, activity level, vocalization, sleeping patterns, and grooming. Look at the cat physically for signs of over-grooming, or anything else that seems out of the ordinary,” offers Bennett.

Another warning sign that something is amiss is if a normally secure cat is suddenly clingy, says Gibbons. “Other symptoms that can go along with underlying illness include a change in appetite, change in normal activities, an increase in the frequency of vomiting or diarrhea, change in breathing, or excessive thirst.” 

How to Deal With A Clingy Cat

Given that over-dependence on a human can lead to depression, separation anxiety, and illness, it’s essential to understand the underlying causes and find ways to remedy the behavior. “A cat can be very affectionate and connected with their human, but if they cross over into being clingy, then it’s important for the family to look at the overall picture and see what can be done to create more confidence and security,” says Bennett. 

Here are a few guidelines to help you improve life for your needy cat and your family.

First Things First: Talk with Your Veterinarian

“If it is a medical issue, often addressing the underlying cause will help. If it is a behavioral issue, veterinarians often have many suggestions on how to keep your kitties calm,” says Gibbons. Ask your veterinarian if it would be beneficial to work with a veterinary behaviorist or certified cat behavior consultant.

Why is My Cat Being Clingy? Study Your Own Behavior

Despite your best intentions, there’s a chance you could be contributing to your cat’s clinginess inadvertently by constantly rewarding their behavior. “Cats may find the only relief comes from being in physical contact with their human, and in most cases, they get rewarded by getting the much-needed attention,” says Bennett.

Look for Changes Within Your Home

Is there anything in your cat’s environment or schedule that may be causing their insecurity? “Look at relationships between pets, how much time a cat spends alone, what changes can be made to create more environmental enrichment, and also start working on addressing separation anxiety,” recommends Bennett. 

If you’ve recently added a new cat to your home, be sure each has access to their own litter box and food dish, and that there are plenty of places for each to hide.

Work on Building Confidence in Your Cat

The goal is to instill a sense of balance. “Their security and confidence should come from their relationship with family members but also from feeling comfortable in their home environment,” offers Bennett. 

How do you accomplish this? “Something as simple as engaging in twice-daily interactive play sessions with your cat can go a long way toward building confidence.” During this type of play session, Bennett says, you’re nearby but the cat is also independently “hunting” her toy. (We have you covered if you need suggestions on the best types of chew toys and kicker fish toys.)

“You’d be surprised by how well cats respond to environmental enrichment and the correct behavior techniques to bring out their feline best,” says Bennett.

Finally, Ease Your Cat through Life Changes

This is especially important if you know your cat has a tendency to become anxious, says Bennett. “In general, cats don’t like change, so unless it’s something that can’t be avoided, take baby steps when it comes to helping your cat become comfortable with new pets, new people, and other changes in the home.”

It may not happen overnight, but with patience and consistent reinforcement, you can help a clingy cat feel secure enough to develop a healthy sense of confidence and independence.

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Cats typically spend up to 50 percent of their waking hours on grooming, often adopting yoga-like positions to ensure that every hair, from whiskers to tail, is meticulously groomed. 

Consistent, thorough grooming is important for cats’ overall health. It removes dirt, dead skin cells, and parasites. It distributes oils in their skin to keep their coats silky smooth. 

However, sometimes a seemingly insignificant knot in your cat’s hair can develop into a matted, tangled mess. That can throw off your pet’s normal grooming regimen and may even expose them to health risks. So here’s everything you need to know about matted cat hair and what to do about it to keep your pet healthy and thriving.

Why Do Cats Get Matted Hair?

When fine strands of cat hair get knotted and tangled, they often turn into densely entwined mats that refuse to separate. Matted cat hair can form a noticeable clump in your pet’s fur.

“When cats groom themselves, their tongues, which are full of tiny barbs, remove the dead hair,” explains Samantha Bell, cat behavior expert for Best Friends Animal Society. “Mats are caused by excess dead hair getting trapped under the top coat and combining with the oils in the cat’s skin to form a hard, rough, painful lump.”

Mats tend to appear in places that are difficult for cats to reach (such as the back) and are more common in areas where there is a lot of friction (like the armpits), according to Bell.

Matted cat hair not only looks unsightly, it can cause your cat a lot of discomfort because the skin is pulled so tightly. The tangled clumps also prevent airflow to the skin, which may cause skin irritation and—in severe cases—even lead to infection. If the fur around a cat’s anal region gets matted, it can trap urine and feces, increasing the risks of infection. 

Some cats are more prone to matted hair than others, according to Sheila Bailey, veterinary assistant at San Diego Humane Society.

“Most cats are very efficient at preventing mats through self-grooming,“ says Bailey. “But many long-haired or elderly cats need extra help from their owners to keep their coats well maintained and mat-free.” 

The reason? Research shows that it’s harder for long-haired breeds like Persians to access layers of their fur closest to the skin (1). That makes their coats “un-groomable” and, without some grooming help from their owners, their fur is extra prone to matting.

Certain medical conditions can also increase the likelihood cats will have matted fur. Obesity can lead to poor grooming habits and/or mats Bailey notes that cats with arthritis may find it more difficult to reach all areas of the body for self-grooming. Other illnesses that cause your cat to feel lethargic or uncomfortable could also cause them to under-groom. 

“A sudden change in grooming habits can be an indicator that it is time to visit your regular veterinarian,” she adds.

How to Get Mats Out of Cat Hair

The most important tip to remember when it comes to removing matted cat hair is this: Go slow. Attempting to comb out mats too quickly could hurt your cat (and may make them reluctant to sit still for future grooming sessions). If your cat has multiple mats in his or her fur, expect to devote multiple grooming sessions to removing them.

For small, relatively loose mats, start by spritzing the area with a detangling spray formulated for pets. Then use a wide-toothed comb to loosen and remove tangled fur. With one hand, hold the hair below the mat, close to the skin. And with the other hand, move the brush gently through the mat, making sure to avoid or minimize pulling on the hair as much as possible. 

Larger mats may need to be shaved off with clippers. A veterinarian or professional cat groomer can often remove them quickly and efficiently, without stressing your cat out too much. Depending on the size and severity of the matting, as well as the disposition of the cat, some pets may require sedation in order to remove larger mats.

Regardless of the size of the matting, Bell offers an important caution: Do not use scissors. 

“Often, you can’t see it, but their thin skin can be so entwined in the mat that you will likely slice the skin and hurt the cat,” she says. “I’ve seen many well-meaning cat volunteers try to cut off a mat and find they’ve injured the cat quite seriously.” 

Grooming Tools Needed for Matted Cat Hair

When it comes to matted cat hair removal, some tools are better than others. Bailey recommends slicker brushes to remove loose hair and wide- and fine-toothed combs for loosening and working through mats. If the mats are severe, remember to skip the scissors and use clippers to remove matted cat hair instead.

“Clippers with an adjustable blade can help remove tightly matted hair close to the skin,” Bailey says. “Be sure to read the clipper instructions to get the best result and to prevent cutting the skin. And use quiet clippers to decrease the stress for the cat.”

How to Prevent Matted Cat Hair

It’s much easier to prevent matted cat fur than it is to remove established mats. Bailey suggests starting a regular grooming routine when cats are kittens to get them used to being brushed.

“If your cat is not thrilled with brushing, start with very brief grooming sessions—just one or two strokes—that immediately ends when you notice signs of stress,” says Bell. “Reward them with their favorite treat or wand toy after grooming sessions so they see it as a positive ritual.”

Supplements may also help prevent matted fur. Bailey suggests talking to your veterinarian about omega-3 fatty acids found in fish oil supplements to improve skin and coat health. “Routine veterinarian checkups can also help identify skin and coat problems before they get out of control,” she adds.  

Feeding your cat a nutritious, balanced diet that helps them maintain a healthy weight can also help prevent matted fur.

 “Weight management is important,” Bailey says. “Cats that suffer from severe obesity may find it difficult or impossible to self-groom effectively.”

Prioritizing prevention with regular grooming, vet care, a nutritious diet and supplements are essential. But if your cat does get matted fur, acting quickly (but gently) to remove mats before they grow bigger will ensure that they can maintain good health and return to their regularly scheduled self-grooming routine.

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Turns out, the healing powers of oats can help dogs that are scratching or licking at sensitive spots feel better. 

“I first discovered how well oatmeal works on myself when I had chicken pox,” says Dr. Katalin Grant, a board-certified veterinarian specializing in general and emergency medicine, surgery and dentistry. “Oatmeal is very soothing to the skin, and I’ve been prescribing it to my clients’ dogs for years.”  

Thanks to oatmeal’s naturally moisturizing and skin-protective qualities, it’s found in numerous shampoos, gels, and creams for humans and canines alike. But the oats you serve up for breakfast aren’t quite the same as what you’ll find in the best oatmeal shampoos for dogs. 

Read on to learn everything you need to know about oatmeal dog shampoo, including the benefits of using it, conditions it can help treat, whether the do-it-yourself version is worth your time, and what to look for on the label. 

What Is Oatmeal Dog Shampoo? 

Oatmeal dog shampoo is made with one key ingredient: colloidal oatmeal. 

“The process of making colloidal oatmeal includes grinding up the Avena sativa oatmeal into a very fine powder, bringing the product and water to a boil, and sifting off the oatmeal particles,” Grant explains. 

After that, it’s combined with liquids and other ingredients specially formulated to avoid disrupting the delicate pH balance on the surface of dogs’ skin. Since dogs have more sensitive skin than ours, it’s ideal to choose products designed for pets to avoid further irritation.  

Is Oatmeal Shampoo Good for Dogs?

Short answer: Yes! Colloidal oatmeal has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties (4), so dog shampoos made with it can help soften and protect your pup’s skin, Grant says. 

While more research is needed on exactly how different components in colloidal oatmeal soothe skin, scientists believe a slew of compounds are responsible for its beneficial effects. For example, starches and sugars found in oats lock in moisture, antioxidants like vitamin E and avenanthramides ease swelling and itchiness, and soap-like chemicals called saponins help clean off skin (2).

It’s always important to talk to your veterinarian before trying out any new grooming products. But oatmeal dog shampoo gets the stamp of approval from Grant: “In the 30 years I’ve been practicing, I’ve never seen an allergy to oatmeal yet,” she says. “I’ve only seen soothing, healing responses.” Experts agree it’s rarely irritating (5).  

Oatmeal Dog Shampoo Benefits 

Oatmeal dog shampoo comes with many potential health benefits (1, 5). It can help: 

• Moisturize dry skin 
• Create a stronger skin barrier to lock in hydrating ingredients
• Reduce inflammation and irritation from rashes or chronic skin conditions 
• Soothe itchy skin
• Wash away dirt and grime to keep skin and coat clean and free of infection 

Uses for Oatmeal Dog Shampoo

Oatmeal dog shampoo is a great staple to add to your grooming routine if your dog has dry, itchy, or sensitive skin. According to Grant, it can also be used when skin irritation arises from the following issues (5):

• Hot spots 
• Dandruff 
• Canine atopic dermatitis 
• Flea allergy dermatitis 
• Skin rashes related to other allergies or food sensitivities

Keep in mind that oatmeal shampoo does not actually treat the above conditions, but it can soothe some of the associated discomfort. Dogs with these conditions still need veterinary care and treatment for the underlying disease to see any significant improvement.

Oatmeal Dog Shampoo for Itchy Skin 

One of the most common reasons pet parents reach for oatmeal dog shampoo is to give their pup much-needed relief from itchy skin, and Grant confirms it’s a great solution for this problem. 

However, it’s important to consult with your veterinarian to ensure you’re treating the underlying cause as well, whether that’s a fungal infection, flea infestation, allergy, or something else. For example, many pet parents have asked, is oatmeal shampoo good for dogs with yeast infection? In that scenario, your veterinarian will likely recommend a shampoo with chlorhexidine or other ingredients with antiseptic and antifungal properties (5), though the shampoo may also contain oatmeal to help soothe the skin. Oatmeal shampoo should not be used in dogs with skin infections.

Once underlying skin issues are addressed, oatmeal dog shampoo can make for a soothing product to use for regular baths.

Will Oatmeal Dog Shampoo Kill Fleas?

Although oatmeal dog shampoo can certainly help dial down the itch factor, it cannot get rid of fleas. “Unfortunately, fleas are very stubborn and difficult to treat,” Grant says. “I have not found any home remedy that works to eliminate them.” 

When it comes to zapping these tiny menaces for good, opt for the safest, most tried-and-true flea treatments under the guidance of your veterinarian, she advises.

Homemade Oatmeal Dog Shampoo: Is it Worth It?

There are plenty of homemade oatmeal dog shampoo recipes you can find online, but Grant recommends against the DIY route.

Why? Finding the correct type of oatmeal, boiling it, sifting it, then properly combining it with the correct balance of additional ingredients is a tall order. And, at the end of the day, it’s much easier to find a brand you trust that already has the best ingredients in the right portions to help your pet, she says. 

Oatmeal Dog Shampoo: What to Look For 

The best oatmeal dog shampoos have few ingredients and are free of potentially irritating ingredients like parabens, artificial fragrances, and dyes, says Grant. Other things to look for on the label include vitamin E and aloe, which can also help ease skin irritation. 

With colloidal oatmeal and a blend of botanical extracts, NuVet Oatmeal Conditioning Shampoo and Oatmeal Conditioning Spray both fit the bill for a soothing, hypoallergenic shampoo, Grant says.

Lather up your pup with oatmeal dog shampoo, and you might find they’re a little more comfortable in their skin once bath time is over. Considering just how common and frustrating relentlessly itchy skin can be, this time-honored remedy is worth a try, along with a visit to your vet to identify the cause of the itch!

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Read on for an in-depth look at UTIs, what causes them, the symptoms, diagnosis, treatment, and ways to prevent them. 

Dog Urinary Tract: Understanding the Anatomy

The urinary tract of dogs consists of the kidneys, ureters, urinary bladder, and the urethra. The kidneys are complex organs that, among many other functions, are responsible for filtering the blood and removing excess waste and water in the form of urine. The urine produced by the kidneys is transported by the ureters, small tubular passages, into the urinary bladder. The bladder is responsible for storing urine. Once the bladder is full, the urine is excreted out of another tube, called the urethra. In male dogs, the urethra passes through the prostate, a reproductive organ, and then terminates at the tip of the penis. 

Dog Urinary Tract Infection: What is it? 

A urinary tract infection is an infection mostly caused by different types of bacteria that occurs anywhere within the urinary tract, including the bladder, kidneys, and prostate (in male dogs). It is expected that about 14 percent of all dogs will experience a UTI in their lifetime (1). As in humans, it is much more common for female dogs to experience urinary tract infections than male dogs. This is thought to be due to the closer proximity of the female genitalia to the anus, which increases the risk of bacterial contamination from poop. Any breed of dog can get a UTI, however, it tends to be more common in female breeds with excess skin folds around the vulva, such as Pugs, French Bulldogs, or English Bulldogs. Bacteria love to breed in warm, dark, and moist environments, making skin folds an ideal breeding ground. 

What Causes UTI in Dogs? 

UTIs are generally caused by bacteria coming from the skin or the colon that enter the urethra and travel upward into the bladder. Normally, urine is fairly sterile and your dog’s body has several defense mechanisms that prevent her from developing a UTI. This includes acidic urine, the ability to slough the cells that line the bladder to remove bacteria, compounds and white blood cells that destroy bacteria, and many other defenses. Occasional infections occurring one or fewer times per year are likely not due to an underlying disorder. However, when frequent UTIs occur, there is often an issue with the dog that is making her more likely to develop UTIs. 

Besides having excess skin folds around the genitals, dogs with anatomical abnormalities, like ectopic ureters (an inherited abnormality in which the ureters do not enter the bladder at their normal location) or recessed vulvas (small vulvas tucked into the skin), are at increased risk of UTIs. Common symptoms of an ectopic ureter include urinary incontinence (inability to control urination) and frequent UTIs. 

Other conditions that can make dogs more prone to frequent UTIs include: 

• Lack of conscious bladder control (due to a spinal cord injury resulting in paralysis)
• Chronic kidney disease
• Urinary incontinence
• Cancer of the urinary tract
• Bladder or kidney stones
• Cushing’s Disease (hyperadrenocorticism)
• Diabetes mellitus 
• Male dogs with enlarged prostates

Symptoms of UTI in Dogs

Urinary tract infections are at best uncomfortable and at worst extremely painful for dogs. It is important for pet parents to be able to recognize symptoms of UTIs in their dogs to make sure that they receive prompt veterinary care. Ignoring signs of UTIs in dogs can lead to serious complications, including kidney infections. 

The most common signs of UTI in dogs include: 

• Urinating small amounts of urine more frequently 
• Straining to urinate 
• Bloody urine 
• Having urinary accidents in the house (if your dog is potty trained)
• Fishy or foul smelling urine 
• Increased genital licking 

Less frequently, dogs may have a fever, stop wanting to eat or vomit, but this is usually associated with more serious UTIs, such as kidney or prostate infections. 

Diagnosing Urinary Tract Infections in Dogs

If you suspect your dog may have a UTI, it is important to have her examined by your vet, as there are other conditions that have similar symptoms. Your vet will need to feel your dog’s abdomen to ensure the bladder is not overly distended, which could indicate a life threatening urinary obstruction, and make sure there is no kidney pain, which could signal a kidney infection. 

Your vet will also need to perform a urinalysis, a test of the urine that includes checking the urine concentration, checking a urine chemistry dipstick, and examining a urine sample under the microscope. If your dog is otherwise healthy and does not have a history of frequent UTIs, this may be all that is necessary to diagnose a UTI in your dog.

For dogs that are feverish, vomiting, not wanting to eat, or those that have an underlying condition such as chronic kidney disease, your veterinarian will need to run blood work to evaluate the health of the kidneys and other organs. 

Ideally, a urine culture should be performed to confirm every case of suspected UTI in dogs, but this may not be financially feasible for all pet parents. However, if your dog has a history of frequent UTIs, urine culture and antibiotic sensitivity testing are necessary. This will indicate the type of bacteria that is causing the infection and determine which antibiotic will be most effective at treating the infection. 

For dogs with recurrent UTIs or those that do not improve with treatment, it is a good idea for imaging of the urinary tract, either with X-rays, ultrasound, a CAT scan (CT), or a combination of these, to be performed. These tests look for urinary stones, signs of kidney infections, tumors, or ectopic ureters, which can all lead to UTIs that are difficult to treat. 

How to Treat UTI in Dogs

When a UTI is diagnosed by a combination of symptoms and testing, antibiotics are indicated in order to kill the bacteria causing the infection. For cases of UTIs occurring two or fewer times per year, a short three- to five-day course of antibiotics is all that may be needed (2). For recurrent UTIs (those occurring three or more times per year) or kidney infections, longer courses of antibiotics are often necessary. 

For recurrent UTIs, it is important to try to address the underlying issue that is making UTIs more likely. For example, in dogs with the most common type of bladder stones, a prescription diet is often used to dissolve the stones. For dogs with ectopic ureters, surgery may be necessary to reposition the ureter to the normal location. 

Home Remedies for UTI in Dogs

There are no home remedies useful for the treatment of UTI in dogs. It is thought that cranberry supplements may decrease the frequency of UTI in dogs prone to infections but there is not enough research to routinely recommend this (2). 

General Cost to Treat Urinary Tract Infections in Dogs

Pet parents can expect the following approximate costs to diagnose and treat a UTI in their dogs: 

• Exam: $45-$105
• Urinalysis (testing and collection): $70-$115
• Urine culture: $170-$350
• Course of antibiotics: $20-$200 (greatly varies depending on the weight of the pet, the antibiotic indicated, and the duration of treatment) 

How to Prevent UTI in Dogs

While preventing sporadic UTI in healthy dogs may not be possible or necessary, there are some things pet parents can do to decrease the risk of certain conditions that make UTIs more common. 

Always have any underlying medical disorders, such as Cushings disease or diabetes, treated, as these contribute to recurrent UTIs.

Even though there is not enough evidence to prove that cranberry supplements are beneficial at preventing UTIs, they are unlikely to be harmful and some studies in humans support their use. Make sure you ask your veterinarian for recommendations on a supplement they trust. 

It is thought that spaying some female dogs, especially large and giant breeds, prior to puberty may increase their risk of a recessed vulva (3). Early spay of females, prior to 3 months of age, has also been shown to increase their risk of urinary incontinence as they age (4). For this reason, pet parents should discuss age of spay with their veterinarian as it may impact risk of urinary issues in some breeds. It is important to note that robust evidence for this recommendation is still lacking and veterinarians are still not in agreement on the optimal age of spay and neuter. 

Obesity, especially in dogs that are prone to excess skin folds, should be avoided as this can make skin folds around the anus and vulva deeper, which can promote the growth of bacteria on the skin near the urethra and lead to UTIs. 

For dogs with recessed vulvas, those prone to skin infections or those with excess urogenital skin folds, keeping the areas around the vulva and anus clean with medicated wipes containing an antiseptic such as chlorhexidine may be recommended to help prevent ascending infections. Ask your veterinarian for recommended products if you think your dog could benefit from this. 

Related Conditions

• Pyelonephritis (kidney infection) 
• Urolithiasis (urinary tract stones) 
• Prostatitis (prostate infection) 

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What is Carprofen?

Carprofen is an anti-inflammatory for dogs, belonging to the NSAID (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug) class. It was first introduced for veterinary use under the brand name of Rimadyl® in 1997. Since its introduction, carprofen has been widely used to treat pain and inflammation in dogs and it is currently available under a number of different brand names. While this drug was also used in humans for approximately 10 years, it is no longer available in a human version.

Carprofen acts by inhibiting enzymes that are involved in pain and inflammation. It acts quickly, alleviating pain and inflammation within one to three hours of oral administration. Carprofen is related to ibuprofen (a commonly-used NSAID in humans), but it is much less likely to be associated with toxicity in dogs. 

Most veterinary practices keep carprofen in stock and prescribe it regularly. Additionally, carprofen may be available for purchase through veterinary pharmacies (with a prescription). 

What is Carprofen Used For in Dogs?

Carprofen is used to manage pain and inflammation. The most common indications for carprofen are post-surgical pain (many dogs receive several days of carprofen after spay/neuter surgery and other surgeries) and osteoarthritis. However, carprofen can also be used to treat a number of other acute injuries or illnesses, including lameness, intervertebral disk disease, trauma, bite wounds, anal sac impaction, and other conditions.

Is Carprofen Safe for My Dog?

Carprofen is a commonly-prescribed pain medication for dogs that is typically well-tolerated. Side effects can occur, however, and it is important to know which side effects to watch for. Being familiar with common side effects can maximize the likelihood that you detect these side effects quickly and address them appropriately. 

If your dog is going to be on carprofen long-term, your veterinarian will likely recommend performing blood tests before starting the medication. These blood tests can help identify factors that may make your dog more susceptible to side effects. Additionally, dogs that remain on carprofen long-term often receive monitoring blood work on a regular basis, typically every 6 to 12 months. Monitoring blood work can help your veterinarian detect possible side effects early, before they cause serious illness in your dog. 

Carprofen Side Effects in Dogs

The majority of dogs do not develop any side effects while taking carprofen. In dogs that do experience side effects, however, the most common side effects are gastrointestinal in nature. Affected dogs may develop vomiting, diarrhea, or a decreased appetite. In many cases, these gastrointestinal side effects can be minimized by giving the medication with a full meal. Less commonly, dogs may develop kidney disease or liver disease as a result of carprofen. 

Potential side effects that may be associated with carprofen may include: 

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Tarry or bloody stool
• Anorexia
• Lethargy
• Increased thirst/urination
• Other urinary changes
• Jaundice (yellow discoloration of the skin/eyes)
• Neurologic effects, such as weakness or incoordination
• Skin inflammation or redness

If your dog shows possible side effects that may be associated with carprofen, stop giving the medication immediately. Contact your veterinarian as soon as possible and describe the effects your dog is experiencing. Your veterinarian can help you determine whether a medication change may be needed.  

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

Carprofen should never be given in conjunction with other NSAIDs (such as meloxicam, deracoxib, firocoxib, grapiprant, or aspirin) or corticosteroids (such as prednisone). Other medications that may interact with NSAIDs include cyclosporine, anticoagulants, digoxin, and ACE inhibitors. 

To minimize the risk of drug interactions, be sure that your veterinarian is aware of any other medications that your dog is receiving. If you are giving any vitamins, supplements, or herbal therapies at home, your veterinarian should also be aware of these substances.

Carprofen Dosage for Dogs

Your veterinarian will prescribe an appropriate dose of carprofen for your dog, based on your dog’s weight and overall health status. Carprofen may be prescribed for once-daily or twice-daily dosing. A dog’s total overall daily drug dose is the same regardless of whether the medication is given once or twice daily; the only difference is whether you give your dog’s full daily dose at one time or split it into two smaller doses. Your veterinarian will recommend the best dosing regimen for your dog’s condition and overall health status. 

What if My Dog Misses a Dose of Carprofen?

If your dog misses a dose of carprofen, you have two options. 

If it is almost time for your dog’s next medication dose, simply wait and give the next dose on schedule. Then, follow your regular dosing schedule. 

If you realize that you missed a dose and it is not yet time for your dog’s next dose, you may want to give the missed dose immediately. If you do this, be sure to wait 12-24 hours before giving the next medication dose, as directed by your veterinarian on the prescription label. 

Price of Carprofen for Dogs

The price of carprofen can vary considerably, based on your dog’s size and whether your dog is taking a name-brand or generic formulation of carprofen. In general, generic formulations are less expensive than name brands. 

You can expect to pay anywhere from 50 cents to $5 per day for carprofen, depending on your dog’s size and whether you purchase brand-name or generic.

Carprofen Storage Instructions

Carprofen should be stored at room temperature. You can safely store this medication on your counter or in a cabinet. 

Flavored, chewable carprofen tablets are often very appealing to dogs and even some cats. Therefore, flavored carprofen chews should always be stored safely out of reach of animals (and children). Food-motivated pets can chew through medication bottles and overdose on carprofen, potentially leading to significant side effects.

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What Causes Dog Wounds?

The most common cause of dog wounds are other dogs. Dogs can injure each other during rough play, minor disagreements, and full-on fights. Dog wounds can also result from being hit by a car, altercations with cats, sharp sticks or stones, some infections, and many other unavoidable aspects of dog life.

A wound is defined as anywhere the skin is damaged—from burns or scrapes that only involve the surface of the skin, to cuts and punctures that penetrate deeper, compromising all layers of the skin. And just in case you’re tempted to disregard a wound unless you see lots of blood, it’s important to note that the amount of bleeding doesn’t always reflect the severity of the wound. For example, small cuts on the ear may bleed very badly while large lacerations may have minimal bleeding. 

Types of Dog Wounds

Just as there are many things that can cause wounds in dogs, there are many different types of wounds, too. Here are some of the most common types of dog wounds pet parents face:

Scrapes

Scrapes are superficial wounds that only involve the surface layer of the skin. They can be very painful. The most common way dogs get large scrapes is vehicular trauma. 

Burns 

Dogs often burn their paw pads in the summer when walking on hot concrete or asphalt surfaces. The severity of the burn wound is ranked according to how deep the damage goes. Dogs can also burn their mouths and throats stealing food while it is cooking or cooling.

Lacerations

Lacerations commonly occur when dogs fight. They are open wounds in the skin that can be long or short, superficial or deep. Dogs can also lacerate themselves on sticks, fences, or even from misjudging a jump onto a chair or into a car.

Degloving

A degloving injury is a very severe form of a laceration where a large section of skin is pulled away from the tissue below it. These types of wounds are most frequent in fights where a big dog bites and then shakes or swings a little dog, causing the skin to come loose.

Puncture Wounds

Like an iceberg, puncture wounds may look small, but there is often much more going on under the surface that you can’t see. Punctures are small, deep wounds that often occur during a fight with another animal or routine interaction with a sharp object. At first glance, they may not look too serious, but these types of wounds can easily become infected because bacteria and debris get trapped at the very bottom of the puncture with no easy way out. In the case of a fight, what looks like a small hole in the skin could be hiding severe internal damage, including broken bones, large deep lacerations of muscle, open chests or abdomens, and even damage to internal organs.

Envenomation

Insect bites, stings, and snake bites can all cause wounds. Typically, minor events—like a single ant bite or bee sting—do not require treatment, but every dog is different. Some dogs are allergic to insect bites and stings and need emergency treatment. Snake bites can cause severe, life-threatening wounds because the venom kills tissue as it spreads. So a snake bite wound should always be evaluated by a veterinarian immediately. 

“Hot Spots”

Moist dermatitis (commonly known as a “hot spot”) may look like a scrape or a burn, but it is actually a skin infection. The treatment for hot spots is very different than the treatment for true wounds. (Check out Hot Spots on Dogs for more information.)

Eye Wounds 

Any wound on or around the eye should be treated as an emergency. Delaying treatment risks your dog’s vision. Any product used to clean a wound near the eye should be safe for use directly in an eye.

How to Clean a Dog Wound at Home

No matter what type of wound you’re dealing with or what caused it, it’s important to treat your dog’s wound promptly and properly to clear it of bacteria and avoid dangerous infections. That’s because it is much easier (not to mention, often less painful, expensive, and risky) to treat a fresh, clean wound than one that is old and infected or has healed poorly. 

However, always consult with your veterinarian first if you are at all concerned that the wound may be more serious. And that doesn’t just apply to large or bleeding wounds. Wounds that appear small may actually be more severe. So when in doubt, call your veterinary clinic. 

When cleaning your dog’s wound, never apply hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, or other caustic cleaning products to your dog’s skin. These will worsen the wound and are painful to your dog.

Generally, wounds only need to be cleaned after the initial incident, if there is fluid drainage from them, or if exposed to contaminants like dirt or food. If an antiseptic cleaner is recommended, a mild soap (such as baby shampoo, dish soap, or unscented hand soap) is all you need. Your veterinarian may recommend using an Epsom salt solution instead of soap or may even send special wound-care soap home with you. 

Cleaning a wound too frequently or vigorously can delay or prevent it from healing properly. That means you’ll need to be gentle, yet vigilant, to keep new debris and bacteria from entering the wound.

In some locations, an unscented gentle baby wipe is the best way to clean around a wound. Do not wipe directly on the wound unless you can see debris to remove, but instead clean the surrounding area. For wounds on the feet or lower legs, gently dry the area with a clean towel every time your dog comes in from outdoors. Wounds on the face should be wiped of debris and patted dry after each meal. And wounds near your dog’s hind end should be wiped and dried every time they go to the bathroom. 

Dog Wound Care

A big part of keeping your dog’s wound clean so it can heal properly is preventing your pet from licking, chewing, or scratching at the wound during recovery. Some pet parents resort to elaborate, MacGyver-style systems constructed from old T-shirts, tube socks, and athletic tape. But a simpler (though, not at all stylish) method is to use the cone of shame, also known as an Elizabethan collar or e-collar. 

You can get an e-collar from your veterinarian or at many pet stores. While they come in many varieties, generally the hard ones are most effective. An e-collar should be worn at all times, even when sleeping, until the wound heals, but you can take the e-collar off for leashed walks and mealtime as long as you are actively watching your dog. 

To make sure your dog’s wound is healing properly, keep a close watch on it, checking it at least every morning and evening. If you see any new debris, bruising, or swelling, if the wound has a foul odor, or if you notice more than a few drops of discharge, see your veterinarian immediately. 

The best way to keep tabs on how your dog is healing is to take pictures of the wound’s progression over time—ideally in a room with consistent lighting so the images are easier to compare. Any changes to the wound that do not look like healing should be evaluated by your veterinarian. 

As they heal, wounds progress through different types of scar tissue. The first stage is called granulation, where the wound is usually pink and moist. It is important to keep granulation clean and protected, as it is still vulnerable to contaminants. 

The next stage of healing is when that granulation turns into a pink or lightly-colored scar that is dry, but may still be sensitive to touch. At this stage, the e-collar is key because chewing or licking can easily break down this fragile scar tissue, which would put your healing process back at square one.  

If you can avoid that setback, the scar will mature, and your dog can be freed from his e-collar. Keep in mind, your dog’s hair is unlikely to regrow from a scar.

Surgical Wounds

Surgical incisions are a different type of wound and need to be treated differently from other sources of wounds. Surgical wounds are “clean,” meaning they are not contaminated with dirt and bacteria the way other wounds are. They should be kept clean and dry according to the instructions provided by your veterinarian. You should not clean a surgical wound unless specifically directed by your veterinarian. However, you should still monitor these wounds as they heal for signs of infection, like you would any other wound. 

If a veterinarian places a drain in the wound, be sure to follow their instructions for monitoring and follow-up closely. Drains help any fluid or infection leave the wound instead of getting trapped and stalling the healing process. Drains should never go more than two to three days without being evaluated by a veterinarian.

Final Take on Wound Care for Dogs

Wounds come in many varieties and are very common in dogs. Always seek veterinary care for wounds, because what you see on the surface may not tell the entire story of your dog’s injury. Keeping wounds clean and preventing your dog from chewing at them are the two most important parts of home wound care. 

Knowing how to care for wounds at home will help your dog heal better and faster. Although many people expect that their dog will learn their lesson and not repeat whatever got them hurt in the first place, that is rarely the case. Dogs just want to have fun and quickly forget any lessons when it interferes with playtime. So don’t throw away that e-collar because, odds are you may need it again.

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Learning to recognize your cat’s emotions through her body and tail language is important for building trust in your relationship, assessing her response to situations, and getting help when she needs it. 

The good thing is that cats don’t lie. They may not be upfront about their feelings but if you know how to interpret their cues and signals then you will have a window into their emotional state. 

Why Do Cats Crouch?

A crouching cat generally means some kind of discomfort—fear, aggression, or even pain. The rest of their body language and the context of the behavior give us hints as to what your cat is feeling. 

For example, a cat crouched with her ears flat and her head low while hiding in the corner is being defensive. She probably feels trapped and wants you to back away. A cat who crouches does not necessarily require a trip to the veterinarian but may benefit from some changes to her environment such as places to hide or moving food somewhere quieter. 

It is important to distinguish crouching from a cat who is relaxed but sitting with their feet tucked under them and their ears softly up, as these are signs of comfort. This distinction highlights why it is important to interpret your cat’s body language in the context of her surroundings.

Cat Crouching: What to Look For

Crouching cats have their bodies tucked and their tail wrapped around them. This differs from a relaxed cat who may have her tail out long or splay her body out (for easier petting). Details about her body language including her facial expression and ear position are important for understanding why your cat is crouching. 

Defensiveness or Aggression 

Cats may take a crouching posture when they feel antagonized. Along with her crouched body, her tail is wrapped around her, her ears are flat, and her eyes are fixed on you. The cat is saying “back off or else.” 

Fear or Stress

Her body is crouched and her tail is wrapped, but her ears may be up and her face more relaxed. She may look at you or avert your gaze. She may back away when you come near. She is asking for help because something is making her scared. Do not assume she wants to be picked up to be comforted, but rather try to figure out what is causing her fear or stress so that it can be eliminated. 

Pain or Discomfort

This can be the most difficult kind of crouching to interpret because it depends what hurts. Her facial expression may vary depending on how much pain she is in. A cat with abdominal (stomach area) pain may crouch, walk very slowly while staying low to the ground, and not go very far between breaks. A cat with muscle or joint pay may move from her crouched position very slowly and be very careful and deliberate about placing her feet to walk. A cat in pain should always be seen by a veterinarian.

What To Do About Cat Crouching Behavior

If you notice your cat is crouching, start by asking yourself some questions about the behavior. Answering these questions can help you figure out why your cat is crouching and what you can do about it. 

Some questions include:

• What else was going on in that situation where your cat was crouching? Did you have friends over, was it storming, or maybe something else? Is it only when there are loud noises?

• How long has your cat been crouching? Is it a new behavior or has she done it for a long time? Did something change in your household at the same time? Have you noticed any other changes in her behavior?

• How often is she crouching? Did it used to be occasional and now it’s more frequent? Is it after playtime or mealtime? Is it anytime someone comes near her or only people wearing heavy shoes?

Asking yourself these and other probing questions may help you come up with a solution. For example, maybe your cat needs more safe spaces to hide. Or maybe she doesn’t want to be touched when the loud dishwasher is running. Eliminating table scraps or a diet change might help if that’s what you can associate with painful crouching. For fear or anxiety, maybe supplements like CBD can help. 

If you’re unsure why your cat is crouching, don’t be afraid to ask your veterinarian for help. This is especially true if the crouching is new or increasing in frequency as it could be due to pain or escalating aggression. If you can bring a video of the behavior that will be very helpful. 

Your veterinarian will start with a physical exam and you will have the opportunity to talk about tools to make your cat more comfortable in your home, no matter the cause of your cat’s crouching. 

Cats give many clues to their emotional state. It is our job as pet parents to learn to read their body language and provide them what they need. 

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As the name suggests, feline immunodeficiency virus in cats is related to human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) and the disease syndrome parallels that of HIV in people. Since FIV attacks the immune system, infected cats are often more prone to secondary infections or opportunistic infections (rare infections that most healthy cats can fight off). 

What is FIV?

FIV in cats is caused by a pathogenic lentivirus in the Retroviridae family that destroys cells of the immune system. As a lentivirus, FIV has a high probability of mutating and appears as various subtypes. There are roughly six common subtypes with varying degrees of severity.

FIV causes immunosuppression in cats by attacking CD4+ T cells, which are important cells that assist the immune system, keeping most cats healthy. The lack of a robust immune system makes them less likely to fight off other diseases. 

How Do Cats Get FIV? 

Cats can contract FIV through bites and bite wounds from the saliva of infected cats. 

Risk factors for FIV are associated with lifestyle and activities of domestic cats. Any cat breed can be affected, but the disease is seen more commonly in cats that are prone to fighting or biting. Adult and male cats are most at risk due to their lifestyle, and intact, male cats are the highest risk group for catching the virus. Cats that have a history of bite wounds or abscesses and cats that have access to the outdoors are also at risk. 

FIV-positive cats can live in the same household as other cats as long as they are not prone to fighting or biting each other. Luckily, FIV is not spread through feces, aerosolized particles, social contact such as grooming, or through contact with materials such as blankets and toys.  

Kittens can be born with FIV and FIV can be passed from mothers to kittens. Transmission from an infected queen (mother) to kittens is possible during pregnancy and during lactation. This doesn’t always happen, but when it does, it is usually due to the amount of virus present in the mother’s bloodstream. If the mother cat is carrying high viral loads, she will be more likely to pass the infection to her kittens. 

Symptoms of FIV in Cats 

Signs of FIV vary widely in cats. Most of the clinical signs are non-specific and can correlate with a number of other diseases. Pet parents should always consider or mention FIV testing to their veterinarian when they see their cat’s health declining especially if your cat is prone to fighting or is an indoor/outdoor cat. 

Signs of FIV in cats include:

• Weight loss 
• Fever 
• Abnormalities of the eye 
• Depression
• Lethargy
• Enlarged lymph nodes 
• Halitosis (bad breath) 
• Diarrhea
• Dehydration
• Behavioral changes (abnormal mental activity) 

FIV infection can present in different stages. There are four stages of infection, but not all cats experience each of the stages. 

Acute phase stage 

The acute phase occurs soon after infection and signs include lethargy, fever, and enlarged lymph nodes. Some cats may not show any signs during this stage.

Latent stage

After the acute phase, the infection is asymptomatic and enters into the latent phase, which means the infection is lying dormant. This stage can last for months to years.

Acquired immunodeficiency syndrome (AIDS)

The AIDS stage can occur years after the initial infection and result in secondary infections or immune-mediated diseases. Signs during this stage are most often associated with secondary infection and/or chronic or intermittent disease. 

Terminal phase

The terminal phase of FIV often consists of signs of neurologic disease or cancer. Once cats have entered the terminal stage, they usually have a survival time of 2-3 months. However, by the time the disease is diagnosed, they may have poor quality of life and humane euthanasia may be the most kind option.

Diagnosing FIV in Cats 

Veterinarians will use a series of tests to diagnose FIV in your cat. Veterinarians will start with a physical exam to look for certain signs such as enlarged lymph nodes, fever, abnormalities in the mouth and the eyes. 

Next your veterinarian will obtain blood from your cat to submit a variety of tests (such as a complete blood count or biochemistry profile) to rule out other diseases. Other blood tests include serology, PCR, or virus isolation which can be used to test specifically for FIV antibodies or the live virus. 

How to Treat Feline Immunodeficiency Virus 

Treatment options for FIV-positive cats are very limited and rarely implemented. Supportive therapy is the most important line of treatment because cats with FIV are more prone to concurrent infections. Supportive care encompasses a variety of strategies that will keep your cat as healthy as possible. 

These strategies include:

• Treatment for secondary infections
• Feeding a healthy, balanced diet
• Maintaining proper hydration
• Anti-inflammatory drugs
• Immune-enhancing drugs
• Probiotics
• Parasite (such as flea and tick) control

Many infected cats have a good quality of life for several years, until they begin to show signs of FIV. 

How to Prevent Cats from Getting FIV 

FIV prevention is centered around reducing the risk of exposure which includes neutering male cats, limiting access to the outdoors, and decreasing the likelihood of fighting or bites among cats in the same household. 

If you have an infected cat, it’s important to keep him indoors to prevent spreading the infection to other cats and to minimize their exposure to other infectious agents. FIV doesn’t survive well in the environment and can be killed by common disinfectants. 

There is a FIV vaccine, but its efficacy is variable. In some cats, the vaccine has been shown to cause a false positive on a blood test [1]. This vaccine is considered a non-core vaccine by the American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) and should be reserved for at-risk cats. 

Staying on top of knowing your cat’s FIV status could be an easy way to catch the disease early. The recommendations by the AAFP to test for FIV include cats in the following conditions: 

• All cats, periodically based on risk 
• New cats joining a household or group setting 
• Any cats exposed, more than 60 days after exposure 
• Sick cats 
• Before initial FeLV or FIV vaccination

Related Conditions

• Feline leukemia virus (FeLV)
• Feline calicivirus
• Feline herpesvirus
• Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP)
• Feline panleukopenia virus
• Lymphoma
• Toxoplasmosis 

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While it is not effective for every dog, it can help alleviate clinical signs of itching and skin inflammation in some canines. 

What is Chlorpheniramine?

Chlorpheniramine is a first-generation antihistamine that was developed for human use in 1948. Over seventy years later, it is still available as an over-the-counter medication to treat seasonal allergies in humans. 

In addition to its use in human medicine, chlorpheniramine has also been used as an allergy medicine for dogs. The use of human chlorpheniramine in dogs is “off-label,” which means that it is not specifically labelled for use in dogs. Therefore, chlorpheniramine should be given only under the supervision of a veterinarian. 

While chlorpheniramine is not effective for every dog, it does provide relief for some dogs with mild allergic skin disease. 

What Does Chlorpheniramine Look Like?

Chlorpheniramine maleate is typically administered as a small, round yellow tablet that is scored down the middle. It is also available as a syrup. 

How Does It Work for Dogs?

Chlorpheniramine is an antihistamine, like diphenhydramine (Benadryl). This means that it counteracts the activity of histamine, a key mediator involved in allergic disease. During an allergic reaction, histamine is released and it is this histamine that is responsible for the itching and inflammation that is associated with many allergic reactions in dogs. When the action of histamine is blocked by an antihistamine, an allergic reaction can be prevented, halted, or decreased in severity. 

In dogs, chlorpheniramine has variable efficacy. Some dogs experience a dramatic improvement in skin allergies with chlorpheniramine, while others will show no apparent benefit with treatment. In many cases, trial and error is required to determine the optimal medication to treat canine skin allergies. Chlorpheniramine may be combined with other medications, such as corticosteroids or fatty acid supplements. 

While human chlorpheniramine is often used as an antihistamine for dogs, it’s important to exercise caution when purchasing chlorpheniramine from your local pharmacy. Chlorpheniramine is often combined with decongestants, pain relievers, or other medications that may be toxic to dogs. If your veterinarian has recommended that you purchase over-the-counter chlorpheniramine for your dog, read labels carefully and consider talking to a pharmacist to ensure that you are purchasing a product that contains only chlorpheniramine. 

What Is Chlorpheniramine Used For in Dogs?

Chlorpheniramine is used to treat allergic skin disease. Although it is not typically effective in dogs with food allergies, chlorpheniramine may be used to treat itching associated with:

• Atopic dermatitis (seasonal skin allergies)
• Contact dermatitis  
• Flea allergic dermatitis (must be combined with effective flea prevention)

Chlorpheniramine Side Effects in Dogs

Like any antihistamine, especially other first-generation antihistamines, chlorpheniramine may cause sedation. Dogs may become tired or act weak while taking chlorpheniramine. In some cases, this resolves over the course of a few days as the dog acclimates to the medication. In other cases, sedation persists and the medication must be stopped. 

In rare cases, dogs may become excitable or agitated when treated with chlorpheniramine. Dogs with a seizure disorder may also be more likely to have a seizure while on chlorpheniramine. Treated dogs may also develop gastrointestinal effects, including vomiting and diarrhea, especially if chlorpheniramine is given on an empty stomach.

Discontinue your dog’s chlorpheniramine and contact your veterinarian if you notice any of the following side effects: 

• Significant sedation
• Ataxia (trouble walking) 
• Significant excitability
• Seizures
• Concerning behavior changes
• Decreased appetite
• Nausea/vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased skin inflammation (which could indicate an allergic drug reaction)
• Eye redness, pain, or squinting (which could indicate a drug-induced decrease in tear production)

Many dogs safely take chlorpheniramine for prolonged periods of time with no negative effects. 

Reactions With Other Drugs and Medications

Chlorpheniramine may enhance the effects of a number of other drugs, including pseudoephedrine, amitraz, selegiline, and sedatives that act on the central nervous system. Therefore, chlorpheniramine should be used with caution in dogs receiving these medications. 

Taking chlorpheniramine in combination with antacids may decrease the body’s ability to absorb chlorpheniramine. Taking chlorpheniramine in combination with certain antibiotics and antifungal agents may increase circulating levels of chlorpheniramine, increasing the likelihood of side effects. 

Chlorpheniramine can also interfere with the results of skin allergy testing. If your dog will be receiving allergy testing, chlorpheniramine should be stopped two weeks prior to testing. 

Chlorpheniramine Dosage for Dogs

Your dog’s recommended chlorpheniramine dose will depend on his size, the severity of his allergic condition, his overall health status, and any other medications he is taking. 

Follow your veterinarian’s dosing recommendations when giving chlorpheniramine. If you have any questions or concerns about your dog’s chlorpheniramine dose, contact your veterinarian before making dosage changes on your own. 

What if My Dog Misses a Dose of Chlorpheniramine?

Chlorpheniramine is typically administered every 8-12 hours. If you miss a dose, you have two options. You could give the missed dose as soon as you realize it, then administer the next dose 8-12 hours later. Alternatively, you could skip the missed dose completely and give the next dose at its scheduled time. Either option is reasonable, depending on the severity of your dog’s allergies and when you notice the missed dose. 

Price of Chlorpheniramine for Dogs

Generic chlorpheniramine is typically very inexpensive. Depending on the size of your dog and where you purchase the medication, you can expect to spend anywhere from $5-$20 per month for your dog’s chlorpheniramine. 

Chlorpheniramine Storage Instructions

Chlorpheniramine tablets and syrup should be stored at room temperature. They do not require refrigeration.

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It is undoubtedly scary to see your dog acting so strange, but there are steps your veterinarian can take to help your dog recover. First, you’ll need to understand what ataxia is and how it can affect your dog.

What is Ataxia?

Ataxia is a catch-all term used to describe a lack of coordination caused by a problem in your dog’s nervous system. Dogs with ataxia typically have an abnormal swaying gait and difficulty maintaining their balance. 

Ataxia is not a medical condition in and of itself, and it always occurs as a symptom of an underlying medical condition.  

Types of Ataxia in Dogs

When veterinarians are trying to diagnose the underlying cause of ataxia, it is sometimes helpful to identify the specific type of ataxia that is occurring. Ataxia can generally be broken down into three categories:

General Proprioceptive Ataxia. This type of ataxia occurs when your dog’s nervous system has problems determining where the body is located in space. This is often characterized by swaying, stumbling, falling, and dragging one or more limbs.

Cerebellar Ataxia. This type of ataxia is caused by problems in the cerebellum, which is the part of the brain responsible for coordinating movement. Cerebellar ataxia is often characterized by a swaying head and exaggerated movements of the limbs.

Vestibular Ataxia. The final type of ataxia is caused by a problem in your dog’s inner ear or brainstem. Dogs with this type of ataxia will typically stumble and fall to one side, but sometimes both sides can be affected.

Causes of Ataxia in Dogs

Ataxia does not occur by itself and it is always a symptom of an underlying injury or illness. There are a multitude of conditions that can cause ataxia in dogs, and these are just a few of the most common ones:  

• Middle or inner ear infection
• Old Dog Vestibular Disease (also called Idiopathic Vestibular Disease)
• Congenital abnormalities
• Tumors of the brain or spinal cord
• Intervertebral disc disease
• Degenerative myelopathy
• Fibrocartilagenous embolism
• Electrolyte imbalances
• Toxin ingestion
• Medication overdose
• Trauma to the brain or spinal cord
• Infection or inflammation affecting the brain or spinal cord

Many of these conditions are serious and delays in treatment can result in permanent damage. If your dog is showing symptoms of ataxia, it is extremely important to see your veterinarian right away.

Symptoms of Ataxia in Dogs

Depending on the underlying cause, ataxia may appear suddenly or may come on gradually.  In some cases, ataxia may be progressive and it will worsen over time.  

If your dog is experiencing ataxia, you may notice symptoms such as:

• Swaying gait
• Wobbling
• Appearing drunk
• Dragging one or more feet when walking
• Crossing the legs when walking
• Difficulty maintaining balance
• Staggering or falling
• Wide-based stance
• Exaggerated limb movements

These symptoms can indicate a potentially severe problem for your dog. As soon as you notice symptoms of ataxia, it is time to consult your veterinarian for advice.

Diagnosing Causes of Ataxia in Dogs

Ataxia can be caused by many different conditions, so your veterinarian will need to perform some diagnostic testing to look for the underlying cause of the ataxia. Your veterinary visit will typically start with a thorough history. A member of the veterinary team will ask you detailed questions about your dog’s health, behavior, and environment. Then your veterinarian will perform some or all of the following tests:

Physical Examination. Your veterinarian will perform a full head-to-tail examination on your dog. This will include listening to your dog’s heart and lungs, taking vitals, and palpating your dog’s spine and limbs, all of which can provide more information about the underlying cause of the ataxia.

Neurologic Examination. Your veterinarian may perform a neurologic exam on your dog.  This includes evaluating your dog’s reflexes, posture, and gait. This type of examination can help your veterinarian determine which parts of your dog’s nervous system are affected.

Blood Work. A complete blood count and biochemistry panel will be performed to look for conditions such as infection, inflammation, electrolyte imbalances, and organ system dysfunction which may be causing your dog’s ataxia.  

Diagnostic Imaging. Your veterinarian may recommend X-rays or an ultrasound to further evaluate the underlying cause of your dog’s ataxia. In severe cases, a CT scan or MRI may be recommended to identify the part of your dog’s nervous system that is affected.

How to Treat Ataxia in Dogs

The treatment for ataxia focuses on identifying and addressing the underlying cause of the neurologic dysfunction. Some conditions that cause ataxia in dogs may be treated or even cured with medication alone, while others may require surgery to correct the problem.  

In some cases, such as severe infections or ingestion of a toxin, your dog may need to be hospitalized for more intensive care. 

Once the condition that caused the ataxia has been diagnosed, your veterinarian will be able to discuss your dog’s treatment options with you. 

General Cost to Treat Ataxia

Because so many conditions can lead to ataxia, it is difficult to estimate how much it will cost to treat your dog. Some cases may require advanced diagnostics and referral to a specialist, which can quickly become expensive.  

Pet owners should expect to spend anywhere from a few hundred to several thousand dollars to diagnose and treat ataxia in a dog.

How to Prevent Dogs from Getting Ataxia

Ataxia is caused by a wide variety of medical conditions, but some of them can be prevented through good wellness care. Ensuring that your dog eats a nutritious diet, maintains a healthy weight, and stays up-to-date on vaccinations and routine veterinary care can help prevent some common causes of ataxia.  

You should also be sure to keep any medications, household chemicals, and other toxins well out of your dog’s reach.  

Related Conditions

• Vestibular Disease
• Intervertebral Disc Disease
• Canine Distemper
• Degenerative Myelopathy
• Fibrocartilagenous Embolism

The post Ataxia in Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Let’s explore why dogs have pale gums and what you can do about it.

Dog Gum Basics: What Color Should Your Dog’s Gums Be?

The gums are one of several structures in the mouth that support the teeth. Healthy, normal gums in dogs have a pink or salmon color. The gums are pink because of the many tiny blood vessels just under the gums’ surface.

Healthy dog gums are also shiny and moist, indicating that your pup is well-hydrated.

There are normal variations in dogs’ gum color. For example, some dogs have mottled or pigmented gums, meaning that the gums have spots of dark pigment. This is nothing to worry about.  

Checking Your Dog’s Gums

As a responsible pet parent, you already know about closely monitoring your pet’s health and behavior so that you can detect when something’s not right. 

Checking your dog’s gums should be included in this monitoring. Fortunately, this is easy to do and not at all uncomfortable for your dog. 

How do you check your dog’s gums?

Gently lift the upper lip and pull down the lower lip to observe your dog’s gum color, which should be pink or salmon in color.

Next, gently touch your dog’s gums to determine if they feel moist. Gums that feel a little sticky or tacky could indicate dehydration.

You can also perform the capillary refill test, which is a quick way to evaluate hydration status and blood flow to the gums. Gently press your index finger to your dog’s gums and lift your finger back up. The area you pressed will be white from your finger’s pressure, then return to the normal pink color in 1-2 seconds, indicating adequate hydration and a quick refill of the blood vessels. 

If more than 1-2 seconds pass before your dog’s gums turn pink again, your dog may be dehydrated or have an underlying health problem that is affecting circulation.

How often should you check your dog’s gums?

Check your dog’s gums at least once or twice a month. However, it’s best to check the gums each time that you brush your dog’s teeth, which should be daily. Take note of any change in the gum’s feel and appearance.

Be aware that, for dogs with mottled or pigmented gums, it can be challenging to see the capillary refill test results and determine if the gums have changed color. 

Pale gums in dogs range from pale pink to white. Because pale gums are usually associated with a problem with hydration or circulation, the gums will probably feel sticky and lose their shiny appearance from a lack of moisture.

Causes of Pale Gums in Dogs

Many health problems can affect a dog’s circulation and lead to pale gums. Some of the more common causes of pale gums include:

Anemia

Anemia is a decreased number of red blood cells (RBCs). It is not a disease unto itself but rather a consequence of some other disease process. Dogs with anemia are often weak, tired, and have difficulty breathing. They also experience weight loss and have a faster heart rate to pump out more blood.

Kidney Disease

The kidneys produce a substance called erythropoietin (EPO), which stimulates RBC production. During kidney disease, the kidneys stop working well, meaning that EPO production goes down. With less EPO, fewer RBCs are being produced, ultimately leading to pale gums.

Signs of kidney disease include excessive drinking and urination, reduced appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, and weight loss. Chronic kidney disease can cause anemia.

Shock

Shock occurs after a traumatic event, such as being hit by a car, that causes significant external or internal bleeding. A dog’s circulation plummets, blood vessels constrict, and gums become pale.

Dogs in shock have rapid breathing, a rapid heartbeat, and reduced body temperature.

Shock is an emergency that requires immediate veterinary treatment.

Internal Bleeding

Bleeding internally can result from traumatic injury or organ disease, such as stomach ulcers. It reduces circulation, leading to pale gums in dogs. Signs of internal bleeding include sudden collapse, lethargy, and difficulty breathing. Internal bleeding is a medical emergency and you should take your pet to the veterinary hospital immediately.

Parasites

Parasites can wreak havoc by feeding on a dog’s blood and depriving dogs of vital nutrients. Fleas land on a dog’s fur and feed on the blood. A heavy flea infestation can cause significant blood loss, leading to pale gums. Symptoms of a flea infestation include intense itching and hair loss from the constant scratching.

Intestinal parasites like roundworms cause digestive problems, such as vomiting and diarrhea. They can also cause weight loss and reduced energy and appetite.

Bloat

Bloat in dogs can quickly become a life-threatening condition. When the stomach fills with gas, it can become so distended that it twists upon itself, leading to a dangerous cascade of circulation problems. Pale gums are a consequence of these circulation problems. 

Dogs with bloat have distended abdomens, may heave or retch, may collapse and be severely lethargic or may be restless and uncomfortable.

Blood Clotting Disorders

The blood clotting process is complex. A blood clotting disorder, such as thrombocytopenia (a lack of platelets), disrupts this intricate process and causes abnormal bleeding. Rate bait ingestion can also disrupt this process and cause abnormal bleeding. Pale gums could result from abnormal bleeding.

Signs of blood clotting disorders include excessive bleeding and skin bruises.

Heart Disease

If your dog’s heart cannot pump blood properly, the gums won’t get the blood supply they need to stay healthy, leading to pale gums. Heart disease signs are numerous and include lethargy, reduced appetite, coughing, and a fluid-filled abdomen.

Heavy Metal Toxicity

Dogs aren’t exactly picky eaters, so they may eat something that contains heavy metals, such as pennies or nails. Heavy metals like zinc can reduce RBC production, leading to anemia and pale gums.

Heavy metal toxicity also causes symptoms like vomiting, reduced appetite, and lethargy.

Cancer

Cancer robs the body of so much. Dogs can be affected by many types of cancer. Some types of cancer affect the bone marrow, which produces RBCs. If there’s cancer in the bone marrow, RBC production goes down, leading to anemia and pale gums.

Cancer has a broad range of symptoms that depend on the type of cancer.

What to Do if Your Dog Has Pale Gums

If your dog has pale gums and is lethargic or otherwise not themselves you should go to the vet immediately. Pale gums in dogs are abnormal and always warrant further investigation by a veterinarian.

If your dog is critically ill from shock or bloat, immediately seek veterinary care from your veterinarian or an emergency veterinary hospital. If your dog is in shock from a traumatic injury that’s caused significant bleeding, you can perform first aid by covering the wound with a clean cloth. However, your primary goal is to get your dog treated as soon as possible.

The other causes of pale gums listed above are not necessarily life-and-death medical emergencies. However, because pale gums indicate an underlying health problem, your dog will need prompt veterinary care. 

Your veterinarian will ask you many questions as they examine your dog to determine the cause of the pale gums. Come prepared with as much information as possible, including what’s listed below:

• First observation of the pale gums
• What the gums looked and felt like
• Other symptoms or changes in behavior
• History of trauma
• History of eating something that contains heavy metals (e.g., pennies)

A detailed history will give your veterinarian more clues of the underlying problem. After performing a physical exam, they will perform other diagnostic tests, including routine blood work, X-rays, and blood clotting tests.

A pet health insurance policy from a company such as Lemonade may help offset the costs of diagnostics, procedures, and medications for a condition related to pale gums. Your veterinarian may want to perform lab tests, blood work, or any number of diagnostics to determine the cause of your dog’s pale gums.

Having peace of mind with a customized pet health policy like Lemonade is worth its weight in gold. For more info, visit the Lemonade site and answer a few quick questions to get a personalized pet health insurance plan quote.

The sooner your veterinarian can determine what’s causing the pale gums, the sooner your dog can be treated and get back to good health.

How to Prevent Pale Gums in Dogs

Since pale gums are a sign of other underlying medical conditions, preventing pale gums in your dogs is a matter of staying on top of preventative wellness.

Always keep up with your pet’s vaccine and testing schedules so you can detect medical conditions as early as possible. When you are brushing your dog’s teeth, pay attention to any change gum color. If you notice anything abnormal, always reach out to your veterinarian to see if further evaluation makes sense.

The post Pale Gums in Dogs: 10 Reasons It Might Be Happening appeared first on Great Pet Care.

As we enjoy a delicious bowl of pineapple or eat a slice of pineapple upsidedown cake we may be tempted to share this fruit with our dogs. But as responsible pet parents we know it’s important to do a bit of research first. 

So is pineapple okay for dogs? Is it safe to feed our pups these juicy fruits? Continue reading to learn how to feed your dog pineapple and discover some benefits and downsides to offering your canine companion this food.

Can Dogs Eat Pineapple? 

While pineapple is not commonly fed to dogs (after all—coring a pineapple is a bit of a pain), it is not toxic to them. And pineapple may even carry some canine health benefits. 

Pineapples are packed with healthy nutrients including fiber, vitamin C, vitamin B-6 and magnesium. Fiber plays an important role in healthy digestion and works to keep the gut microbiome—beneficial organisms in the digestive tract—healthy. The vitamin C in pineapples helps to support healthy immune function and is an antioxidant, working to protect the body’s cells from damage. 

Pineapples also contain an enzyme called bromelain. This enzyme helps to break down proteins so it too can benefit digestion. Bromelain’s protein-digesting action is what creates that tingling sensation in your mouth when you eat pineapple. Bromelain is also thought to decrease inflammation in the body and studies suggest a benefit to giving this enzyme to people with arthritis [2]. In addition, some research studies in mice have shown that bromelain also has some anti-cancer properties [3].  

Another possible benefit of feeding dogs pineapple is that it may help to stop dogs from eating their poop, also known as coprophagia. There are no controlled studies to prove this but it is a remedy touted by many veterinarians and pet parents. The theory behind why this may help is that the bromelain in pineapple will increase how much of a dog’s food is digested, thus making their poop less enticing. 

Can Dogs Eat Fresh Pineapple? 

Fresh pineapple can be fed to dogs in small quantities. When pet parents are giving their dogs any unfamiliar foods, it is always a good idea to only give a very small quantity to begin with. That is because dogs with certain food sensitivities or sensitive stomachs, may react poorly to some foods.

Fresh pineapple is very high in vitamin C, which makes it pretty acidic and this acidity may not be well tolerated by some dogs and may cause gastrointestinal upset like vomiting or diarrhea. The acidity of pineapple can also damage a dog’s tooth enamel. Feeding a dog fresh pineapple will also increase their fiber intake and giving too much fiber can lead to diarrhea. 

Pineapple is also fairly high in natural sugar. High sugar intake in dogs as in humans can cause weight gain, aggravate diabetes, and cause stomach upset. 

With that being said, if your dog likes pineapple and doesn’t have any stomach issues from feeding it, fresh pineapple is ok to give in small quantities as an occasional treat. Treats should never make up more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily caloric intake.

Can Dogs Eat Canned Pineapple? 

Feeding dogs canned pineapple is generally not recommended. Some canned pineapple may come in syrup which contains high amounts of added sugars. Even pineapple that is packed in 100 percent pineapple juice will still contain higher sugar content and calories per serving than fresh pineapple. Canning pineapple also causes this food to lose some of its beneficial nutritional value. 

Can Dogs Eat Dried Pineapple?

Dried pineapple typically contains added sugars so those varieties definitely should not be fed to dogs. However, even the unsweetened variety isn’t a great snack option for your pup. When fruit is dried, the sugars in the fruit become very concentrated and dried pineapple will contain at least three times as much sugar than the same weight of fresh pineapple. This also increases the calorie content per serving. 

Pineapple Cores and Dogs: What to Watch For

The center of pineapples contains a tough fibrous core. It’s the part that most people eat around and discard when eating fresh sliced pineapple. Similarly, dogs should not eat pineapple cores. 

For one, the core is tough to digest and may cause gastrointestinal upset. Most importantly, if a large chunk of pineapple core is swallowed it could lead to an intestinal blockage, requiring emergency surgery to treat. Dogs should also not be fed the outer spiny peel of pineapples for the same reasons. 

Pineapple For Dogs: How To Serve It

If you choose to feed your dog pineapple make sure to only use 100 percent fresh pineapple with no added sugars. As mentioned above, canned pineapple and dried pineapple shouldn’t be given to dogs due to higher sugar and calories. 

Remember to give your dog a very small amount as a trial run to make sure it does not cause an upset stomach. Once you have ensured that he is not sensitive to pineapple you can try the following:

Freeze It

Feed a few small frozen chunks for an occasional refreshing treat on a hot summer day. You can buy pineapple pre-frozen to make it easy. 

Top Your Dog’s Food

Feed a cored and peeled slice on top of your dog’s food to add some tropical flavor to that kibble.

Use It As a High Value Reward

If you’re working on training, you can use a few small pieces of fresh pineapple as an extra tasty treat for a job well done. 

Don’t Overdo Pineapple for Dogs

Just remember when feeding dogs pineapple not to go overboard. An average sized slice of pineapple contains 42 calories [4]. Remember not to feed more than 10 percent of your dog’s daily calories in the form of treats as feeding more will unbalance their diet. 

This means that a Chihuahua should have no more than ½ a slice of pineapple per day if that is the only treat he is being fed. Meanwhile, a Great Dane could enjoy a few slices. 

If your pet is overweight or obese, make sure you consult with your veterinarian about how many calories per day you should be feeding your dog to help him lose weight. 

The post Can Dogs Eat Pineapple? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Clinical signs of myasthenia gravis are variable, ranging from digestive difficulties to a complete inability to walk after exercise.

There is no cure for myasthenia gravis. Fortunately, treatments exist to control the clinical signs of this condition and many affected dogs can go on to live a relatively normal life. 

What is Myasthenia Gravis?

Canine myasthenia gravis is a neuromuscular disease, affecting the signals transmitted from nerves to muscles. 

In a normal nervous system, activated nerves release a transmitter called acetylcholine. This acetylcholine binds to specific receptors on muscle cells, telling the muscle to contract. 

In a dog with myasthenia gravis, however, the muscle cells lack normal numbers of acetylcholine receptors. Even when the nerves release acetylcholine, the muscle cells cannot detect the signal normally. Therefore, the muscles do not contract normally and muscular weakness is seen.

Although myasthenia gravis can be found in any dog breed, predisposed breeds include: 

• Akitas
• Jack Russell Terriers
• Smooth-Haired Fox Terriers
• German Shorthaired Pointers 
• German Shepherds
• Golden Retrievers
• Great Danes
• Labradors
• Newfoundlands
• Scottish Terriers
• Springer Spaniels

Causes of Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

Canine myasthenia gravis is divided into two broad categories: congenital and acquired.

Congenital myasthenia gravis is an inherited condition. Affected dogs are born with low numbers of acetylcholine receptors, resulting in muscle weakness. Dogs with congenital myasthenia gravis are typically diagnosed at 6-8 weeks of age. 

Acquired myasthenia gravis, which is the more common form, develops in adulthood. Cases may develop in young adult dogs (1-4 years of age) or in geriatric dogs (9-13 years of age). These dogs are born with normal numbers of acetylcholine receptors, but lose receptors later in life. 

This occurs when the dog’s immune system is triggered to recognize acetylcholine receptors as foreign, leading to the production of antibodies and the destruction of acetylcholine receptors. Acquired myasthenia gravis may develop spontaneously (with no detectable underlying cause) or may be caused by medical conditions, such as a thymoma (benign tumor of the thymus), other cancer, or hypothyroidism.

Symptoms of Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

Dogs may experience a variety of signs related to myasthenia gravis, depending on the severity of their disease and whether their condition is focal (localized to one part of the body) or generalized. 

One common effect of myasthenia gravis is megaesophagus, in which the esophagus (the tube that carries food from the mouth to the stomach) does not function properly. Dogs with megaesophagus regurgitate undigested food through a passive process that does not involve the abdominal contractions and heaving associated with vomiting. In many cases, a diagnosis of megaesophagus is what leads to the discovery of myasthenia gravis. 

Another common presentation of myasthenia gravis is a dog that becomes weak with exercise. These dogs may walk or run normally after a period of rest, but become extremely fatigued and appear to become stiff or even collapse (in the hindlimbs or in all for limbs) after a brief period of exercise.

Signs of myasthenia gravis in dogs include: 

• Regurgitation 
• Exercise-induced weakness (especially in the hindlimbs)
• Changes in voice/bark
• Excessive drooling
• Respiratory difficulties
• Unable to close the eyes, even while sleeping

Diagnosing This Condition in Dogs

If your veterinarian suspects that your dog has myasthenia gravis, he or she will first perform a comprehensive physical exam. There are a variety of exam findings that may be associated with myasthenia gravis, including muscular weakness with activity, reduced gag reflex, an abnormal bark, and weakness of the neck and facial muscles. Your veterinarian may perform a thorough neurologic exam, evaluating your dog’s reflexes and other neurologic functions.

Once your veterinarian suspects myasthenia gravis, an acetylcholine (Ach) receptor antibody test will be performed. This test looks for antibodies that are produced against the acetylcholine receptors in acquired myasthenia gravis and is considered the best test to distinguish myasthenia gravis from other muscle diseases in dogs. Dogs with acquired myasthenia gravis almost always have high levels of antibodies against acetylcholine receptors. 

Other tests may also be recommended, depending upon your dog’s condition. For example, if your veterinarian suspects megaesophagus or aspiration pneumonia, X-ray imaging of your dog’s chest may be recommended. Blood tests may also be used to evaluate your dog’s overall health and look for signs of infection. 

How to Treat Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

Most cases of myasthenia gravis disease in dogs can be treated. Many dogs make a full recovery with appropriate treatment, although this treatment typically is continued for the remainder of the dog’s life.

Treatment options vary, depending on whether your dog has congenital or acquired myasthenia gravis. Dogs with congenital myasthenia gravis cannot be cured, but can be given medications (called anticholinesterases) that alleviate weakness by increasing the amount of acetylcholine in the body. 

Dogs with acquired myasthenia gravis may receive treatment for the underlying cause of their condition, if possible, as well as anticholinesterases to reduce clinical signs. 

If your dog has developed megaesophagus as an effect of myasthenia gravis, your veterinarian may recommend changes in feeding. If your dog has developed aspiration pneumonia as a result of megaesophagus, more intensive treatment may be required. 

Medications for Canine Myasthenia Gravis

Pyridostigmine (Mestinon®) is typically prescribed for the treatment of myasthenia gravis. This tablet combats the effects of myasthenia gravis by increasing the amount of acetylcholine in the body. It does this by inhibiting the activity of acetylcholinesterase, an enzyme that breaks down acetylcholine. By increasing the amount of available acetylcholine, it is easier to ensure that the remaining acetylcholine receptors receive adequate stimulation.  

If your dog’s myasthenia gravis is caused by an immune condition, immunosuppressant drugs such as prednisone or azathioprine may be prescribed. 

Antibiotics may also be required, if your dog has developed aspiration pneumonia as a result of myasthenia gravis.

General Cost to Treat Myasthenia Gravis

In many cases, the most expensive part of myasthenia treatment is arriving at a diagnosis. The necessary tests to diagnose myasthenia gravis and its secondary complications can cost several thousand dollars. This cost may be even higher if your dog requires emergency treatment for aspiration pneumonia at the time of diagnosis. 

Long-term myasthenia gravis treatment for dogs requires lifelong medication and regular veterinary care. You can expect to spend several hundred dollars per year for care related to your dog’s myasthenia gravis, for the remainder of your dog’s life. Costs may be higher if your dog develops aspiration pneumonia or other complications. 

How to Prevent Myasthenia Gravis in Dogs

Congenital myasthenia gravis can be prevented with responsible breeding. Genetic testing is available for high-risk breeds and should be performed prior to breeding in order to avoid breeding dogs that are carriers of this condition. 

Acquired myasthenia gravis, on the other hand, cannot be prevented. Early diagnosis and treatment, however, can reduce the risk of serious complications (such as aspiration pneumonia).  

Related Conditions

• Hypothyroidism
• Megaesophagus
• Thymoma

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Understanding the natural reasons behind why cats bite can help us humans in preventing and perhaps decreasing this behavior in the future.

Why Do Cats Bite?

There are several natural reasons that cats bite. Cats are very social creatures but prefer to hunt alone. Cats bite when hunting in order to capture and kill their prey. In fact, cats are one of the few animals that hunt even when they are not hungry.

Cats also bite when they perceive a threat or have a high level of fear and are unable to flee. This is a normal, instinctual behavior in order to protect themselves. Cats experiencing this level of fear demonstrate their fear in other ways such as hissing, growling, ears going flat, swatting, and spitting.

But not all biting is part of a cat’s instinctual prey drive or brought on by fear. Biting is also a natural part of play between cats. This type of biting should never result in wounds or injury. Cats mark their own scent on objects in their environment. On occasion, when marking a human with their cheek, cats may bite lightly. These behaviors are all learned from a very early age through interactions with cats and sometimes humans.

Why Do Cats Bite Their Owners?

There are several reasons that cats may bite their owners.

Frustration or Fear 

Sometimes pet parents do things to their cats that they do not like. For example, a pet parent picks up his/her cat, but she does not like to be picked up. When she is trying to get away but cannot or she is feeling afraid, kitty may bite. This is a normal behavior in response to fear.

Pain 

Cats hide symptoms of pain very well. Even when pet parents do not recognize that their cat is in pain, kitty may bite from the discomfort. Over 90 percent of cats that are 12 years old and older develop painful arthritis. Dental disease can be very painful and may lead to biting. 

Petting 

Some cats will bite to signal they have had enough petting. Sometimes this is due to overstimulation where the cat is in a state of high arousal due to prolonged petting or play. It could be due to pain but does not have to be.

Redirected Aggression

In some cases, a cat will perceive a threat and remain in a hypervigilant or state of hyperarousal—meaning her adrenaline is pumping and she is feeling panicked or super excited. A pet parent (or sometimes other cats) may cross paths with this cat, and she bites him/her. The hardest part about identifying this type of aggression is knowing ahead of time that the cat is overly aroused.

Conflict

On occasion, a cat will bite a pet parent that creates conflict between them. For example, if a cat jumps onto the counter and the pet parent tries to “shoo” her off of the counter, she may bite. Cats naturally appreciate being in control of their environments and interactions, and this may be related to creating a sense of controlling the situation. Keep in mind that punishing your cat for biting in these circumstances will make this behavior much worse.

Understanding Play Biting in Cats

Cats are very social creatures and, from approximately 3 weeks of age until 16 weeks, they engage in social play with both cats and humans that will shape their interactions for the rest of their lives. 

Biting is a natural part of play, and with appropriate social play with other cats, cats learn bite inhibition. Bite inhibition means that cats learn how hard they can bite without causing injury. It would be inappropriate for a bite to break skin and cause injury when the cat is intending to play.

While play biting is normal and expected between cats that play, many pet parents accidentally encourage this behavior between themselves and their cats causing bites. These bites can be very mild including barely feeling a play bite or painful resulting in red marks on the skin.

Play aggression occurs in cats that were never properly socialized as kittens during the crucial social play period and is one of the most common causes of aggression to people. If cats did not learn appropriate play with other cats, they are unlikely to have learned bite inhibition and will bite pet parents very hard in an attempt to play. These bites can even break skin and create small wounds. Kitty may even claw her pet parent, having never learned how to sheathe (put away) her claws. These bites often occur on feet, legs, hands, or arms.

Pet parents should stop all play biting—it should not be encouraged or allowed at any time. Play biting could lead to firmer and firmer bites that eventually cause harm to the pet parent. 

Cat parents are encouraged to:

• Play daily with their cat to ensure kitty is getting enough play and attention, and atleast twice daily if the cat is less than a year old.
• Use wand toys or other items that keep hands far away from the cat during play.
• If a bite occurs, immediately stop the interaction. Slowly remove whatever appendage was scratched or bit from the situation, and slowly leave the area to signal you are done with play. Most of the time, kitty is very aroused and will need a distraction to stop play—have a small, favored toy on hand to toss away from you when ending play.
• Give 1 or 2 treats to kitty after a great play session that did not involve any bites.
• Never punish your cat for biting—no physical or vocal punishment. This can create fear and decrease the bond between the pet parent and cat.

Remember to stop play and walk away whenever a cat is interacting with you in an inappropriate way.

Is There Such A Thing As a Cat Love Bite?

Cats are very scent motivated and often mark their own scent on objects in their environment to decrease their stress and indicate their territory. Marking is typically done by rubbing the cheek, chin, or tail base against an item repeatedly. On occasion, some cats that are very involved in marking a human with their cheek may bite lightly. Pet parents often describe that the cat “mouthed” them or that they felt the graze of teeth.

These soft bites during times of marking are typically called “love bites.” Cats that mark by rubbing are often content and when interacting with their pet parents may be purring, trilling, tail vibrating, eyes partially closed or demonstrating other cues that kitty is very pleased with the interaction. These gentle bites do not need to be stopped necessarily but they should also not be encouraged. Pet parents that are used to these gentle bites may be startled and upset if their cat suddenly bites harder. While these bites do not often progress to injury, it is possible. If a cat begins gently biting, it would be best to calmly and slowly walk away from kitty to avoid any mishaps.

What to Do If Your Cat Is Biting

If your cat is biting you, it can be quite upsetting. Sometimes the bites are painful but do not cause wounds, and other times it can result in wounds that can become infected. 

The first thing to do with your cat is make an appointment with the veterinarian. Keep a daily log of the when the bites occur and record the day’s events. Were there any visitors that day? Did your routine change? Was there anything different about the environment, including a shipment of packages or construction noise outside?

The reason to make an appointment with your veterinarian is to immediately rule out medical causes. If your cat is approximately 7 years of age or older, or the behavior has suddenly started occurring, medical causes are quite common. Remember, cats hide symptoms of pain and discomfort—so issues such as chronic bladder inflammation, painful dental disease, and arthritis can lead to sudden changes in behavior and increased bites to pet parents. If your veterinarian does not find a medical cause, he/she will offer tips to try at home or refer you to a cat behavior specialist if there is aggression occurring.

The best solution to all biting is prevention. If your cat bites you during petting, find other ways to interact with your cat without petting or stick to very few (3 or less) pets for every interaction. If your cat bites you every time you pick her up, do not pick her up.

Behavior modification is the practice of recognizing unwanted behaviors like biting and modifying them. Modifying behavior never involves punishment of any kind. Instead, cat parents can work on the following:

Meet Your Cat’s Natural Needs 

Your cat should have access to scratching that is both vertical and horizontal. Cat trees can provide an area for scratching and climbing. A variety of play toys should always be available and changed out at least weekly. Fresh water should be available at all times. Food should NOT be available at all times—cats are used to hunting their food in smaller quantities throughout the day. Litter boxes should be large enough for your cat to comfortably turn around and dig in with soft substrate. Cats need places to hide, and higher-up places to climb.

Increase Your Cat’s Enrichment

Cats need a lot of variety and excitement in their environment to meet their behavioral needs. Play should be daily and never involve hands or very small toys that could result in bites to hands. Think of all your cat’s senses—taste, touch, smell, sight and sound. Does your cat have a new sensory experience every day? Try food puzzles at mealtimes, play cat-friendly videos on a computer or TV, or leave out a paper bag for your cat to rustle in.

Reward Welcome Behavior

Have treats handy. If your cat uses the cat scratcher instead of your armchair, immediately give kitty a treat!

Redirect Your Cat’s Biting When Possible

If your cat is focused on your feet every time you sit in your office chair, place a few treats or favorite small toys near the office chair that you can calmly reach for. Toss treats or small toys away from you to distract your cat to chase something else and avoid the situation which may lead to bites. If she is sitting on your lap and kitty is biting you, slowly stand up so that kitty has to jump down on her own instead of you needing to lift her.

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And our dogs can experience this same symptom for a variety of reasons, but dog constipation is actually quite rare (it is much more common in cats). 

To learn more about the causes of constipation in dogs, its symptoms, and what to do if your pup is having trouble defecating, just keep on reading. 

What is Dog Constipation?

Constipation is when dogs have difficulty defecating or are not defecating enough. If left untreated, it can become very uncomfortable and even require veterinary intervention 

But many pet parents often confuse a dog who is straining to defecate with a dog who is constipated. More often, the dog is straining associated with diarrhea. Dogs with diarrhea can still feel the urge to defecate but there is nothing left to poop out. 

Because of this confusion, it’s a good idea to consult your veterinarian before trying home remedies for suspected dog constipation.

Why Won’t My Dog Poop?

Before you get worried about your dog not defecating, consider environmental reasons he won’t go. Sometimes dogs won’t defecate because they are stressed or in an unfamiliar situation. Once they are more comfortable, this may resolve without issue. 

Weather also plays a factor and dogs may not want to poop in the rain or walk through the wet grass to eliminate.

Another reason a dog may not defecate that is not related to constipation is that he isn’t eating. If no food is going in, there is nothing to stimulate the intestines to push out the remnants of whatever he last ate. Once your dog starts to eat again, his bowel movements will return to normal. However, if your dog shows no interest in eating for more than 24 hours, you should consult your veterinarian.

Signs of Constipation in Dogs

Dog constipation can easily be confused with diarrhea or a urinary tract infection because they can all lead to straining and discomfort. This is why it is important to have a complete exam by a veterinarian before starting any at home remedies for your dog. 

True signs of constipation in dogs may include:

• Posturing to defecate with nothing coming out
• Frequent posturing to defecate
• Crying out when posturing to defecate
• Hunched back
• Painful abdomen
• Not wanting to eat

If your dog has gone more than two days without defecating, he is likely constipated. 

What Causes Dog Constipation?

Constipation can be caused by several different factors including dehydration, obstructed bowels, nerve damage, and even arthritis. Though this last cause sounds strange, dogs with painful backs, hips, or knees may not want to posture to defecate which can lead to constipation.

Dehydration is the most likely cause of a dog’s constipation. An important job of the large intestines (the colon) is to absorb water from stool before it leaves the body. If your dog is not drinking enough water or has lost water through activity, the stool can get very hard. Hard, dry stool is difficult and even painful to pass. Encouraging a dog to drink water can help mild cases but severe cases require veterinary attention. 

Dogs aren’t particular about what they eat and often ingest pieces of toys, food wrappers, and whatever they find in the yard. These things can get stuck in the intestines, causing an obstruction. An obstruction means that nothing can pass and obstructions can cause all of the intestines to stop their normal motion that stimulates defecation. Intestinal obstructions often cause foul-smelling diarrhea, vomiting, lack of appetite, and a very sick dog. Obstructions are a medical emergency and require immediate veterinary care.  

Rarely, a dog will develop nerve damage and be unable to feel the urge to defecate or be unable to push feces out. This results in severe constipation and requires close monitoring by a veterinarian. More typically, nerve damage to the back causes fecal incontinence (involuntary expulsion of feces) as it prevents the anus from constricting and keeping feces inside the body. 

Diagnosing Constipation in Dogs

Sometimes constipation can be diagnosed with only a thorough physical examination but often X-rays are required to assess the extent of the problem. X-rays allow your veterinarian to see how much stool is backing up in the colon. 

Your veterinarian may also recommend bloodwork to better understand the cause of the constipation. Bloodwork will assess organ function including the kidney and liver, both important in digestion, and also quantify how dehydrated your dog is. 

How to Help a Constipated Dog

Mild to moderate cases of constipation can be treated at the veterinary clinic by administering subcutaneous fluids (fluids under the skin) and recommending a change in diet until the constipation resolves. Diets recommended for constipation can either have high or low levels of fiber depending on the cause of constipation and any underlying diseases your dog has. This is usually inexpensive, ranging from $100 to $500.

Moderate to severe cases of constipation will require more extensive care including enemas and even deobstipation (the manual removal of feces under anesthesia). Dogs who experience this level of constipation are likely to need a specific diet for the rest of their lives to prevent recurrence. Cost for this level of care is in the $500-$1,000 range.

Constipation due to intestinal obstruction requires surgery and can cost between $1,500 and $5,000. A veterinarian must surgically remove the object and any intestines damaged by the object. Recovery from surgery can take several days to weeks. 

Your veterinarian also has several types of medications available to treat chronic or occasional diarrhea or may recommend over-the-counter products. If your dog is constipated due to joint pain, talk to your veterinarian about the right pain medications and supplements to help your dog be more comfortable.

At Home Treatments for Dog Constipation

If your dog is experiencing a mild case of constipation and you are sure it is neither diarrhea nor due to a possible intestinal obstruction, there are several ways to relieve dog constipation at home including:

Encouraging your dog to drink. The first at-home remedy for dog constipation is to encourage canine water consumption. Some dogs drink more if there are ice cubes in their water while others will drink a whole bowl of water if a couple of drops of low-salt chicken broth are added. 

Give your dog high fiber foods. High fiber foods help keep stool soft and can make it easier for your dog to defecate. Pumpkin is often recommended as a meal topper since it is mostly fiber and water but is sweet enough that your dog will readily eat it. 

Make your dog move. Regular exercise may be all that is needed for constipation relief. Easy to moderate exercise helps the intestines do their job and can stimulate your dog to poop. A long walk around the block 2-3 times a day can help avoid constipation in dogs.

Never use a stimulant laxative for your dog. Adding oil to your dog’s diet can cause severe diarrhea and is not recommended without consulting your veterinarian. Milk is also not a safe home remedy for dog constipation as it causes severe stomach upset along with diarrhea. 

Preventing Constipation in Dogs

Making sure your dog drinks plenty of water, eats appropriate dog food, and gets regular exercise can prevent most cases of constipation. If your dog is prone to eating whatever he finds, make sure anything he can swallow is picked up and lids are securely fastened to the garbage.

If you’re concerned about your dog’s gut health, ask your veterinarian about probiotics or other supplements that may aid or prevent constipation in your canine companion. 

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But figuring out how to introduce dogs without problems requires a thorough plan and household management techniques put in place before your new dog arrives. Here’s how to make introductory meetings go smoothly.

How To Introduce Dogs to Each Other

If you are looking to introduce your resident pup to a new canine companion, it’s important to follow some key guidelines. When learning how to introduce dogs to each other, try these steps.

Find a Co-Handler

The first step in learning how to introduce two dogs is finding a competent co-handler who understands canine body language. Since dog interactions are often subtle and can escalate quickly, it’s important that both parties understand the nuances of canine body language and are comfortable taking the steps necessary to keep all parties safe, like moving away before the dogs become aroused or agitated. 

Let Dogs Meet on Neutral Ground

The next important consideration when working on introducing dogs to each other is securing a neutral, outdoor fenced space like a friend’s yard or a fenced park. This puts both dogs on a level playing field instead of giving your resident dog the literal home-team advantage in her own yard. 

Make Sure Both Dogs Are Leashed

During the early stages of an introduction, both dogs should be on a fixed-length, 6-foot leash. Do not attempt an introduction on a flexible leash, as an accidental tangle or fur-burn can escalate tensions. 

Keep the Distance—At First

Begin with both dogs far enough apart in the fenced space. They should be aware of one another but still able to focus on and investigate the area around them. This distance varies, but a safe starting point is at least 20 feet apart. 

Walk the dogs parallel to each other, allowing them to sniff and eliminate as you stroll, then switch positions with the other handler so you’re each walking a dog where the other dog walked prior. This type of scenting allows the dogs to pick up more information about each other.

Pay Close Attention to Signals

Look for the dogs to be interested in one another and displaying loose, waggy body language. Tense posture, a high, stiff tail, freezing in place, or hard stares are possible warning signs that the interaction needs to slow down. More demonstrative behaviors, like lunging and hard barking, suggest that the introduction should be called off before the dogs get closer. It is OK to stop the session and try again in 20 minutes. Going extra slow is always OK. Pushing uncomfortable dogs together can ruin your chances of ever having a successful meeting.

Close the Gap Between Dogs

If both dogs are displaying social behaviors and seem happily interested in interacting, gradually decrease the space between them as you and your partner parallel walk. Be careful to avoid face-to-face encounters as you get closer, since a head-on approach can escalate tensions, particularly with dogs on leash. 

Drop the Leashes 

When both dogs are displaying appropriate and interested behavior and both handlers are comfortable with what they’re seeing, you can drop the leashes. Make sure you are in a safe place to do so! 

At this point you should see mutual circling and sniffing and other ritualistic greeting behaviors. Calmly praise the dogs as they get to know one another. It’s likely that a gradual positive introduction will lead to the universal invitation to play; elbows on the ground and rear in the air. And then the fun begins! 

Keep the First Play Session Short

Even though dog play can be energetic and loud, make sure that both dogs are respecting the other’s signals. That means you should see give and take during play as well as short breaks in the action.

Although it’s tempting to let the new friends play until they’re exhausted, it’s better to allow for a brief session then end with a short walk together. Meeting other dogs can be fun and stressful, so rather than letting the interaction tip over into potentially inappropriate behavior, it’s best to end on a positive note. 

Introducing a Puppy to Your Resident Dog

Because most puppies are eager to greet the whole world with a wag, an introduction between a resident dog and a new puppy is usually less challenging than introducing two adult dogs. 

That said, it’s not always love at first sight between your dog and an overexcited pup, especially if the puppy is larger than your resident dog, or your resident dog is older and might be worried about potential pain caused by youthful silliness.

Puppies haven’t learned how to “dog” yet which means they usually don’t understand proper greeting protocols, but a well-socialized adult dog will likely roll with most of the mischief served up by a puppy. That said, it’s within an adult dog’s rights to instruct an impolite puppy with a snarl, bark, or in some cases even a quick pinning if the puppy comes on too strong. As long as the adult dog backs off quickly after the correction and the puppy seems unphased by it, the interaction can continue. If the puppy continues pushing the resident dog despite appropriate corrections, take a break and redirect the puppy with play.

It can take time before an older dog is comfortable with a new, younger sibling, but giving your resident dog solo time away from the puppy, either with you or alone with a tasty distraction, will help to ease the transition.

Red Flags During an Introduction

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, things go poorly during an introduction between two dogs. Unfortunately, not all of the potential red flags are always easy to spot, but some of the more obvious signs include:

• Hard barking
• Direct stare without looking away
• Complete disinterest in each other or avoidance
• Intense play without breaks, even when one dog tries to stop
• Yawning, lip licking, frequent shaking off

If either your resident dog or the potential new dog exhibit concerning behaviors during the introduction stages, consider calling it off and try again another day to see if things go differently. 

If you’re unsure about the feedback your dog is offering, reach out to a qualified dog trainer or behaviorist for support.

Introducing a New Dog Into Your Home: The Basics

It’s important to do a safety sweep before your new dog arrives home, even if the newbie is an adult. Keep in mind that even house-trained adult dogs can have accidents or destructive chewing regressions in a new environment, so the key is to set your new dog up for success. 

First, pick up anything that might be a temptation for chewing, like shoes, laundry, or an easily accessible garage pan or litter box. Consider closing off rooms that are challenging to dog proof and invest in doorway gates to cordon off specific areas. Prepare to manage your dog’s environment by preventing him from sneaking off into other rooms, either to chew or potty.

Your resident dog’s toys and chews might cause scuffles over ownership as your new pup settles in, so pick up all goodies during the acclimation period. Make sure that each dog has their own food and water bowls that aren’t directly next to each other.

Creating a Safe Space

Even though moving into a new home is a joyful experience, particularly for dogs coming out of the shelter system, new-to-you dogs need space and time to acclimate to their environment. 

It helps to provide a go-to spot where your dog can curl up and relax that’s away from the hubbub but close enough that she doesn’t feel left out. A crate is a good option for dogs already comfortable using one, or a cozy bolster-style bed that’s tucked away in a corner. 

Family members, both canine and human, should respect when the new dog needs a break, but be aware that in certain scenarios it’s helpful to require brief time-outs, since some dogs have a tough time settling down.  

Keep the household low key and guests to a minimum during the early few weeks of a new dog’s acclimation period. The full adjustment period can last as long as a few months, so be aware that highs and lows can be expected as your new dog settles in.

Preserving Peace In The Home

Since moving from a one-dog household to one with two dogs can mean upheaval for the resident dog, try to stick to a familiar schedule for feeding, walks, and play. If possible, spend time alone with each dog during the first few weeks. 

Even if the new siblings are getting along beautifully it’s important to separate them when you leave the house, as well as when you’re in the house and otherwise engaged, like in the shower.

It’s always best to prevent simmering tensions from escalating rather than trying to redirect them after they’ve begun, so watch out for any subtle signs of discomfort between your dogs. These signals may include body blocks in doorways or around you (meaning, one dog positions itself so that something or someone is inaccessible to the other), low growling, and freezing or staring, particularly around resources like resting spots or food bowls. 

Finally, don’t forget to give your dogs occasional timeouts apart from one another. Even if they’re having a wonderful time playing together, sometimes dogs aren’t capable of taking a break from the action without assistance. Giving them each something to do in separate areas, like a bone or treat-stuffed busy toy, will prevent accidental escalations and help them settle down. 

In time and with your support, the new siblings will find their groove together and you’ll be lucky enough to watch their friendship blossom!

The post How to Introduce Dogs: Tips to Follow appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Dogs are visual communicators when it comes to broad cues, and tail wagging is one of the ways they can “speak” to others. Their vision is movement oriented, so the tail can play a big role in how they communicate with other pets and their owners. Some dog tails have even adapted over time to be fluffier or feature brighter colors to enhance tail wagging communication.

Learning to brush up on dog tail facts will help you better understand your dog’s body language and ultimately help you communicate better with your canine companion. Let’s cover everything you need to know about your pup’s tail. 

Dog Tail Anatomy: Understanding the Basics

Besides conveying happiness or other visual cues, dogs use their tails for balancing purposes and other athletic movements. The tail is essentially a continuation of the spine, with many of the same features.

What is a Dog’s Tail Made Of?

Dog tails are made of vertebrae, muscles, cartilage, and nerves. There are anywhere between 6 and 23 caudal vertebrae in a dog’s tail, with an average number of 20 vertebrae. 

A dog’s tail also consists of muscles that attach to the vertebrae that help to control the conscious movement of the tail. It is also innervated by nerves to help control the movement of the tail, ranging from 4 to 7 paired nerves.

Do Dogs Have Bones in Their Tails?

Yes, dogs do have bones in their tails. The vertebrae mentioned above is what we refer to as the bones in a dog’s tail. The tail has between 6 and 23 vertebrae composing it, but each dog breed can have many different variations. 

Between the vertebral bodies is cartilage, a flexible connective tissue, which helps cushion moving surfaces of joints, such as between the tail bones. This helps with the fluid movement when a dog wags their tail or curls it between their legs when they are scared.

Why Do Dogs Wag Their Tails? 

Dogs generally wag their tails to communicate with other dogs on how they’re feeling as they approach one another. The wag of a dog’s tail may signal that they are:

• Happy
• Aggressive or agitated
• Curious
• Submissive or scared

While a dog’s tail can provide clues about whether they are happy or not to see you, it can be very difficult to know what a dog is thinking by looking at their tail alone. It is important to consider the dog’s overall body posture when evaluating their emotional state. Generally, a dog is considered relaxed and happy if they approach you with a relaxed, wagging tail that moves loosely from side to side or around like a helicopter. It’s important to interpret what a dog’s tail wag means in context. If you are unsure, let the dog decide to come to you instead of approaching them.

Aggression can be represented by dogs raising their tails to an upward or a curved position. The high tail position conveys “bigness” and dominance, and when the tail is raised, the scent markers (anal glands) can be released easier into the area.

Curious dogs tend to hold their tails in a neutral position or horizontal position straight out from their body.

Submissive or scared dogs lower their tail from a neutral position. They want to be perceived as unthreatening, so they make themselves seem smaller. If the tail is tucked under, they are fearful, and this prevents any of their scent from escaping into the area so they can go relatively undetected.  

Can Dogs Control Their Tails?

Dogs do have the ability to control their tail through muscle, but it can be somewhat involuntary like a laugh, smile, or frown in humans. We can control our mouths and voices, but sometimes it seems involuntary when a laugh escapes!

Nerves innervate the tail, and muscles attach to the caudal vertebrae to help with the conscious movement of the tail. This helps to convey what the dog is portraying to the outside world.

Dogs also control and use their tails as part of balancing or during agility exercises.  

Why Do Dogs Chew Their Tails?

Dogs chew their tails for a variety of reasons ranging from fleas and allergies to pain and injuries. If a dog is chewing their tail, it could be caused by one of the following conditions:

• Fleas
• Hot spot
• Anal gland irritation
• Neurologic issue
• Pain 

Fleas tend to congregate around the tail base, and usually the telltale sign is frantically turning around and biting that area.  The skin could appear red or inflamed, and you may see flea dirt or even fleas when parting the hair around the tail base.

Hot spots are another reason that your dog could be itching their tail base. Some dogs have folds (Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, Pugs, Shar Peis) around their tail base that can trap moisture and create a yeast and bacteria haven that turns into a hot spot. The dogs will do anything to itch and scratch that area.

If your dog has full anal glands, they may scoot on their butts on the ground or carpet, since full anal glands creates an itchy and uncomfortable feeling. Some will even try to lick and scratch that area but won’t be able to reach the rectum, so they get their tail instead! If they scoot a lot on their butt, they can create irritation underneath their tails, which can turn into a hot spot.

Nerve damage or degeneration can cause pain, tingling, or an uncomfortable feeling leading into the tail. Dogs will lick to soothe or bite if they feel tingling or uncomfortableness.

If trauma or pain is the cause, many dogs will lick to soothe the pain. Dogs can get their tails caught in doors, stepped on, hurt in fights, or bit or stung by insects (like bees), all which can cause tail pain and inflammation.

Dog Tail Language: Cues and Communication Guidelines

A dog’s tail plays a key role in body language communication. Here are some tail signs to look for that will help you understand how your dog is feeling.

Free, Loose Tail Wagging

When a dog is freely wagging their tail, they are relaxed and happy. They might be excited about greeting someone, ready to go for a walk, or realizing they’ve arrived at their favorite spot. This type of tail wag is loose and easy. It looks effortless and signals that your dog is zen and content about whatever is happening. 

Tucked Tail

If a dog’s tail is tucked, they are nervous and scared. They are trying to remain small and undetected by any threat. If they have done something naughty, and know they are about to get in trouble, many dogs will sense this and tuck their tails in order to convey they are not a threat, and will hopefully go unnoticed.

Tail Standing Straight Up

If the tail is standing up straight or seemingly the dog is trying to look bigger, this could be used as a threat. They are showing they are ready to defend or fight, and want to be an alpha in the situation by exposing their scent glands when lifting their tail.

Dog Tail Speed: What to Watch For

The speed in which dogs wag their tails can also communicate a lot. If they are wagging their tail very fast with a little bit of hip wiggling, it can indicate the increased level of excitement when greeting their pet parent or favorite friend.  

If a dog is a little more tentative when approaching someone new, but they want to appear friendly, they may wag their tail a little more slowly. They want to convey friendliness, but still have their guard up a bit. 

The post Dog Tail Facts: Info on Wagging, Chewing, and More appeared first on Great Pet Care.

That’s why the best way to introduce cats is with plenty of patience and a healthy respect for how a cat’s brain works. “Learning the proper way to introduce cats before adopting goes a long way in preventing problems and keeping the human and feline family happy,” confirms Dr. Leticia Dantas, a veterinary behaviorist and clinical assistant professor at the University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine in Athens. 

So, before you fling your felines into the same living space, learn everything you need to know about how to introduce a new cat to a new home, with insight from experts in feline behavior. 

Introducing a Cat to a New Home: The Basics

While some cats can be dropped into a new environment and do just fine, the transition to a new space can be highly stressful. How well—and quickly—your cats adjust to this change will depend on a variety of factors including their personality, genetics, and how much they’ve been socialized already, says Dantas. For these reasons, it’s best to take the transition process slowly for all kitties involved. 

First, prepare your home for the arrival of a new cat or kitten by designating a spare room or bathroom as your new family member’s safe space. Any clean and quiet room with a door to separate it from other parts of your house or apartment will do. 

For your cat’s comfort, make sure her sanctuary has the following: 

• Food and water bowls
• Two litter boxes 
• A comfortable place to sleep such as a cat bed or soft blankets 
• Cat toys like whirl toys and a scratching post 
• A perch such as a cat tree, windowsill, or shelf
• A hiding spot like a box, cat cave, or bed to scurry under 
• A towel to seal the door and prevent preliminary interactions with other cats 

If you’re adopting a skittish or shy kitty, consider installing a pheromone diffuser as well, which releases a calming pheromone that can help boost your cat’s sense of security, says Marci Koski, a certified cat behavior and training consultant in Vancouver, Washington.  

Take your new cat for a veterinary visit as soon as possible. It’s best to schedule this visit before you even bring your cat home, but you will definitely want the new cat to have a veterinary exam before you introduce your cats. The veterinarian will perform a physical exam, check for parasites, and ensure that your new cat’s vaccines are up to date. These simple steps can decrease the likelihood that your new cat brings a contagious illness home to your family cats. 

Before you bring your new cat home, put your family cats in another part of the house to prevent the cats from seeing and smelling each other just yet. Immediately take your new cat to her sanctuary and let her explore her new surroundings at her own pace. 

Spend some time bonding with your new cat, and give your other cats an equal amount of playtime (separately, for now!). Since your cats will smell each other on you, give them plenty of cat treats to create a positive association. In the meantime, leave the cat carrier in the room with your new cat so she has a safe hideaway if she feels threatened [1].

A few days after your cat’s arrival, you can begin to introduce her to the rest of your family. 

How to Introduce Cats to Each Other

The best way to introduce cats is—again—very slowly. The more patience you have, the less stressed your cats will be, which ultimately boosts your chances of cultivating a feline friendship or, at the very least, a peaceful coexistence, says Koski.  

Keep in mind that it’s important to introduce cats one by one before you allow a house full of cats to hang out. As such, here’s your step-by-step guide for how to introduce two cats at a time: 

Do a Scent Swap 

To desensitize your cats to each other, introduce them to each other’s unique scent first. Take a clean sock, towel, or blanket and rub it on your new cat’s face, cheeks, head, and neck. Do the same thing with a different sock and your other cat. Then, present the socks to your cats with treats to create a positive association. If your cat hisses or retreats out of fear, repeat the process over a series of days or weeks until they’re totally unbothered by the sock.

Rotate Rooms

Next, allow your new cat to explore the rest of the house one room at a time while your resident cat checks out the new cat’s space. Keep them separated by a door and look out for signs of defensiveness or aggressiveness like crouching or hissing. To reduce anxiety, schedule regular meals and playtime in both spots. Repeat this process for the next couple of days—if not longer—until they appear calm and relaxed.   

Let ‘Em Have a Look

Use a gate or cat carrier to allow your cats to see and sniff each other for an hour or so. Arrange meet-ups several times a day for the next few days or weeks until they’re well-adjusted. Keep rotating rooms and feeding the cats on their respective sides of the gate. This way, they’ll continue to get to know each other and create a positive connection (other cat = tasty food).

Finally, Introduce Your Cats

Calmly let your new cat out to mingle with your family cat for a few minutes. Again, create a positive association with plenty of treats. While some defensive or aggressive behavior is normal and to be expected, if they become increasingly anxious or begin to fight, use a towel to distract and separate them. 

Continue to Take It Slow

Some cats become fast friends in a matter of days or weeks. Others take months or even years to adjust to the mere presence of one another (if they ever do). Be patient and remember that it’s normal for this process to be challenging for some cats. 

How to Introduce a Kitten to a Cat

If you’re wondering how to introduce a kitten to a cat, the good news is the process is about the same as it would be for adult cats. 

In general, it’s best to look for a kitten with a temperament that will mesh well with your current cat’s mood and behavior, says Koski. For example, if you have a cranky older kitty, opt for a more easygoing kitten over the most rambunctious kitten in the litter. Got a high-energy, curious cat on your hands? Then try to find a mini-explorer to match. 

After that, follow the same steps you’d use to introduce adult cats. If you find your kitten is bugging your older cat, try to use playtime to distract her and avoid overwhelming your older cat. 

Regardless of your cats’ ages, the most important thing is to separate the new cat from the resident cat for a long enough time until neither of the cats is showing signs of stress or anxiety, says Dantas. 

Introducing Cats: Red Flags to Watch For

If your cats are stressed out, they’ll let you know. Signs that it’s time to separate your cats include:

• Hissing
• Chasing
• Ambushing
• Swatting
• Biting
• Fighting

You can also watch your cat’s tail language and body language for signs of fear, anxiety, or anger. 

While some level of discomfort is normal, if your cats seem increasingly distressed, separate them ASAP and start the introduction process from the beginning. Whatever you do, never push unwanted meetings. Doing so could solidify negative feelings for one another, create chronic stress, and even trigger health problems. 

If a successful introduction seems impossible, reach out to a board-certified veterinary behaviorist sooner rather than later (you can find one in your area here).  

Preserving Peace in Your Home

After you’ve welcomed a new cat or kitten into your home, there are many simple ways you can keep the peace.

Make sure you have the right gear. Designate separate, identical food bowls, litter boxes, and beds for each cat in your household.

Offer your cats protective spaces. Install numerous hideaways and perches for your cats to survey their surroundings and get away when they need a breather. 

Keep attention equal. Give your cats equal attention to avoid igniting rivalries or jealousy. 

Closely monitor behaviors. Look out for any sudden changes in behavior, which may indicate an underlying health issue and are always a cue to contact your veterinarian for a check-up.

If conflicts between cats arise, remember that you can always separate your cats and start slow introductions again or contact your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist for professional help. 

The post How to Introduce Cats: Essential Techniques to Try appeared first on Great Pet Care.

But what about cats? Are they part of the drool conversation?

They sure are! But usually not for a good reason. So why do cats drool? And what causes our feline friends to salivate? Let’s dig deeper into drooling in cats.

Do Cats Drool?

Cats do drool, but not as much as dogs. While some dog breeds are legendary for their drooling, there are no differences in drooling among cat breeds.

Drool is saliva, which is produced by the salivary glands. Saliva is normal and has a few essential functions, like lubricating food for easier travel down the esophagus. Saliva is considered to be drool when produced in large enough amounts to flow out of the mouth.

Some cats drool occasionally and are otherwise healthy. In most cases of cat drooling, though, there’s an underlying health problem that needs attention. 

Why Do Cats Drool?

Cats drool for numerous reasons. Some of these reasons are harmless, but most are not. Let’s go through the benign reasons first.

Some cats drool when they’re super-relaxed. For example, you may have noticed that your cat drools a little when you pet them. There’s no conclusive reason why this happens. Perhaps it’s because they’re so relaxed that their jaw muscles slacken and the drool pours right out of their mouths, similar to when we doze off and wake up with a small pool of drool on the pillow. 

Other cats drool when they hear the sound of a can of cat food being opened, and the smell of that tasty food reaches their noses.

But most of the time, if your cat is drooling excessively or often, it’s a sign of trouble. Cats drool more commonly when they’re unwell than when they’re feeling good. 

Worrisome reasons for cats drooling are listed below:

Periodontal Disease 

Periodontal disease is a disease of the teeth and teeth-supporting structures, like the gums. Cats with advanced periodontal disease have significant oral discomfort and cannot keep saliva from dripping out of the mouth. 

Feline Odontoclastic Resorptive Disease (FORL) 

FORL is a cat-specific dental disease that occurs when a cat’s gums start to reabsorb the teeth. It causes significant pain, and drooling is one of the first signs of the disease.

Oral Pain

There are lots of causes of oral pain, such as trauma, infection, and foreign bodies. This pain leads to drooling.

Toxins

If a cat eats something toxic, such as a poisonous flower or plant (e.g., poinsettia), they will start drooling in an attempt to rid the body of the toxin. 

Nausea 

A cat that has an upset tummy and feels nauseated often starts to drool.

Kidney Disease

Chronic kidney disease is a common disease in older cats. When the kidneys stop working well, toxins build up in the blood, causing a condition called ‘uremia’ (urine in the blood). Uremia can cause problems in the mouth, including painful ulcers that lead to foul-smelling drool.

Medications

Some medications, such as certain antibiotics, cause drooling in cats.

Nerve Damage

Nerve damage is uncommon in cats. However, if the cranial nerve that controls mouth movement is damaged, a cat can longer close its mouth correctly, leading to drooling.

Excessive Drooling in Cats: When to Worry

Drooling a little bit before dinnertime or while being petted is not a big concern in cats.

So, when should you start to worry about cat drooling? Here are signs to look out for that indicate that your cat’s drooling is a problem:

• Signs of systemic illness, such as lethargy, loss of appetite, and weight loss
• Obvious oral discomfort
• Difficulty eating or drinking
• Bad breath
• New, finicky eating behavior
• Foul-smelling or blood-tinged saliva 
• Constant, excessive drooling

If you see any of these signs, take your cat to your veterinarian. Because cat drool often points to another health problem, you don’t want to delay getting your cat looked at. 

Diagnosing the Cause of Cat Drooling

If your cat is drooling a lot, your veterinarian will do a thorough diagnostic workup to determine the cause.

First, your veterinarian will perform a physical exam and ask you questions about the drooling. Be prepared to answer questions like these:

• What does the drooling look like?
• When did you first notice your cat drooling?
• Has your cat had behavior changes as a result of the drooling?

The more information you can provide about your cat’s drooling, the better your veterinarian will be able to determine what’s going on.

Part of the physical exam will include an oral exam. Depending on your cat’s level of oral discomfort, your veterinarian may need to sedate your cat to take a closer look in the mouth. They will look for any oral abnormalities that could be causing the drooling. 

Because drooling can sometimes result from systemic disease, your veterinarian will examine your cat’s entire body during the physical exam.

Depending on the physical exam findings, additional diagnostic testing may be needed. For example, bloodwork would reveal systemic disease, like kidney disease. X-rays of the mouth would reveal signs of oral trauma or dental disease.

Treating a Cat for Drooling

Once your veterinarian has finished evaluating your cat, they will develop a treatment plan that addresses the underlying health problem. Once that health problem has been treated or is successfully under control, the excessive drooling should resolve.

Can I Prevent Cat Drool?

You may not be able to stop or prevent your cat from drooling completely, but there are certain things that you can do to keep your cat’s mouth healthy. Try these tips to care for your cat’s oral health:

Brush your cat’s teeth. Regular toothbrushing (at least several times a week) helps keep the teeth and gums healthy. Effective dental treats help prevent the buildup of plaque and tartar on the teeth that can lead to periodontal disease.

Schedule dental cleanings. Annual veterinary dental cleanings, which are performed under anesthesia, give your cat’s mouth a deep clean and allows for early detection of dental disease. 

Keep consistent veterinary visits. Wellness checkups allow your veterinarian to assess your cat’s overall health and detect systemic health problems early. Catching and treating these diseases early can keep serious illness and excessive drooling at bay.

Drooling in cats usually signals a serious health problem that requires veterinary care. If you notice troubling signs of drooling in your cat, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian.

With proper diagnosis and treatment, your cat’s drooling can be managed, and your cat—and their mouth—will feel much better.

The post Why Do Cats Drool? Common Causes, Explained. appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Training a rescue dog will help to fast track your new relationship while your dog picks up important life skills. Not only does training give your dog an understanding of good manners and how to be a polite family member, it’s an easy way to cement your growing bond. And best of all? It’s fun! 

Training a Rescue Dog: Why It’s Different Than Puppy Training

Training a puppy is a series of fun firsts. Everything about the process is new, and a pup is likely to be an eager (and excitable!) student with a short attention span. But the fact is, dogs of all ages enjoy learning throughout their lives (you can teach an old dog new tricks), and that includes your new-to-you adult rescue dog. 

One of the perks of training an adult dog is the grown-up ability to focus for longer periods of time. Whereas pups do best with brief training sessions, an adult dog can handle full training sessions.

The best way to set your new rescue dog up for training success is to only use science-based positive reinforcement training. This type of training focuses on rewarding dogs for what they’re doing right rather than correcting them for mistakes. This leads to a happy, engaged student. 

Any training that requires choke, prong, or e-collars is outdated and can actually damage your relationship, so stick with dog-friendly training.

How to Train a Rescue Dog: General Advice and Steps

Before you start your training routine with your new rescue dog, it’s helpful to keep the following things in mind:

Don’t Make Assumptions

When working with an adult rescue dog your best bet is to get rid of all assumptions you might have about your new friend. Your dog might be an adult that “should” know how to do certain things like going to the bathroom outside or walking politely on a leash, but that doesn’t mean that anyone ever taught him how. Until your rescue dog proves otherwise, it’s best to pretend that he’s a new pup that’s still learning how to be a part of your family and home.

Be Prepared for Personality Changes

It might be a surprise to realize that the dog you bring home won’t be the exact same dog you end up with, which means that your shy, sleepy rescue might turn into the life of the party after a few weeks of settling in. Adult rescues can be “shut down” either from challenges in their past, a lack of socialization, or a combination of the two. 

Most rescue dogs go through a honeymoon/adjustment period when they move into a new home, so it’s likely that you won’t get to know your dog’s true personality until after he’s feeling settled and confident. This could be as brief as a few days to as long as a few months.

Learn to Read Your Dog’s Body Language

Finally, as you get ready to begin training it’s helpful to brush up on canine body language so you can understand exactly what your dog is saying to you. Misunderstandings about what a dog is communicating can delay the bonding process and make training more difficult. So, learn about the subtle and not-so-subtle things your dog is trying to say—from yawns to wags and everything in between!

House Training a Rescue Dog

Even though your new dog is an adult who “should” know where to potty, it’s important to note that a lack of housetraining is exactly what causes many dogs to end up in shelters. Keep in mind this training oversight is in no way your dog’s fault—more than likely they never had the opportunity to learn where to go.

Sadly, house-trained adult dogs that are forced to live in a shelter environment for extended periods often lose their good bathroom habits. And even rescue dogs that know where to go can have slip-ups in new households with different routines, or when their usual signals to go out might not be noticed. That’s why it’s best to pretend that your new-to-you dog needs to brush up on house training.

When house training a rescue dog use the same protocols you’d use with a puppy:

• Supervise your new dog at all times and crate or confine him if you can’t watch him.
• Use gates to keep your dog from sneaking away to eliminate in other rooms.
• Set up a consistent feeding schedule for predictable daily bathroom breaks.
• Give your dog a tasty treat immediately after he potties outside (don’t wait to come inside).
• Don’t punish accidents! A mistake in the house is usually due to a pet parent oversight.

Crate Training a Rescue Dog

Getting your new dog acclimated to a crate is a great way to help with potty training and will keep your furry new friend safe when you can’t watch him. Most dogs can learn to feel comfortable in a crate, but adult rescue dogs without crate experience might need more time to acclimate to it before being confined.

Here are some steps to make crate training your rescue dog a success:

Choose the Right Crate

Picking the right size crate will help keep your dog comfortable. The crate should be sized so that he can stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably—but not much bigger than that.

Pick the Right Crate Location

Keep the crate in a part of your house that’s quiet but isn’t far away from the action. Don’t keep crates in out-of-the-way areas, like the basement or garage.

Make the Crate a Happy Place

Encourage your dog to get comfortable with the crate by feeding his meals inside it with the door open and give him goodies like treat-stuffed activity toys inside. After an acclimation period (it could take a few days or more) try closing the door for short periods while he’s inside enjoying a toy or bone and stay in the room with him. 

Slowly Work Up to Leaving Your Dog Alone 

Work up to leaving the room for short periods while your dog is crated, and if he seems content inside, attempt a short departure for twenty minutes. Gradually build up the duration that you’re away, but keep in mind that crating for a full workday isn’t healthy or fair to your dog.

Alternatives if Dogs Are Uncomfortable in Crates

Rescue dogs that are resistant to crate training might do better in a small safe space, like a bathroom or powder room. Pet proof the area by getting rid of potential chew targets like the trash, countertop items, and bathmats and use a gate across the open doorway instead of shutting the door. Leaving your dog with a treat-stuffed busy toy will keep him happily occupied while you’re away. 

Leash Training a Rescue Dog

Many rescue dogs don’t understand how to walk politely on leash—either because they never had the opportunity to learn, or because they’re adjusting to a stressful new walking environment, like moving from a rural area to a city.