Most senior dogs probably aren’t up for an epic hike, but they love the chance to go back to school for some continuing education. It doesn’t matter if you’re brushing up on the basics or focusing on new skills. As long as you take your time and use dog-friendly training techniques you’ll have a surprisingly eager student. 

Read on to discover some fun training exercises to do with senior dogs.

Can You Teach an Old Dog New Tricks?

Short answer? Heck yes! Our dogs never lose their love of learning, but there are some special considerations when it comes to training older dogs. When tackling new training, pet parents should understand that dog training exercises for older pups might need to be modified to address any potential physical changes. That means paying attention to every aspect of the training process, including:

Training environment: Physical limitations might make it tougher for senior dogs to perform certain activities, like getting up and down quickly, so make sure the flooring is comfortable and grip-able. Consider the temperature and lighting in the area as well. 

Past training: If you’re working with a new-to-you dog rescued through a senior dog adoption there’s a good chance that your pup has had training in the past. It might take some sleuthing to figure out what they do and don’t know!

Timing: Puppies are raring to go 24/7, but senior dog energy has an ebb and flow. Time your training sessions so that your older dog has the right amount of focus and spirit for the work.

Diet: Older dogs can pack on the pounds easily, so make sure to use small, healthy treats.

Physical limitations: Achy joints might mean that a long sit-stay is uncomfortable. Watch your dog to ensure you’re not asking for behaviors that can be painful.

4 Fun Training Exercises for Senior Dogs

When it comes to senior dog training, fun is the name of the game! The following dog training tips will help you make the most of your golden years together.

Arm Cross Sit

Most dogs can’t resist jumping up to greet people, and senior dogs in particular probably have a long history of being accidentally rewarded for jumping on guests. This training trick is an easy way to turn pushy greetings into polite welcomes. 

The first step is getting your senior dog to “guess” the behavior that earns a treat, and most dogs usually default to the desired behavior: a basic sit. 

To begin, take your pup to a quiet room, come to a stop, and cross your arms over your chest without saying anything. The goal is for your dog to recognize the body language cue instead of the verbal one. Your dog will likely plop into a sit position right away (especially if they know you have goodies in your pocket!), so mark the behavior with a “yes!” or “good!” and hand over the treat. 

Repeat the process, walking a few steps, and then pausing to cross your arms and wait for that sit again. It usually only takes a few repetitions for most dogs to connect the crossed arms position with the resulting reward for sitting, at which point you can move training to other parts of the house. 

Practice it near entry points in your home with a variety of people and in no time, your formerly jumpy pup will be the perfect canine ambassadog! 

Targeting

This behavior is a simple foundation skill that taps into a dog’s natural inclination to explore with the nose. It’s great for seniors because it’s low impact and easy to teach. 

All you have to do to begin the process is present your open hand to your dog at their level and then acknowledge them with a verbal marker like a “yes!” or “good!” when they move toward it. Praise your clever dog and give a treat from the other hand. 

Continue the process until your dog actually touches nose to palm when you present your hand, and then begin associating a word with the behavior, like “touch” or “target,” by saying the word as your dog performs the behavior. 

Continue working on the behavior in a variety of new environments so your dog begins to generalize it, meaning, they can perform it quickly no matter where they are. 

Don’t forget to vary your positioning, like switching hands, offering a fist instead of a palm, or doing it while seated. This will make it fluent, so that your dog can perform it everywhere you go!

Stay

If there’s one training cue where most dogs backslide over time, it’s probably “stay.” (With “come” in a close second place!) The good news is a quick brush-up is all it takes to reinforce the basics of this important skill. 

The first step is helping your dog understand that you’ll be moving away but they should remain in place. Ask your dog to do a “down” since it’s a more anchored and comfortable position, say “stay,” and then take a single step to the left or right of your dog. (Stepping backward usually encourages dogs to break the stay to follow you.) Immediately step back to your dog and give a treat for remaining in place.

Keep it easy for your dog to win by remaining close during the early stages of training. Once your dog seems comfortable with remaining in place, try stepping away in different directions, and gradually add more distance between you and your dog. 

Work up to having your dog hold a stay while adding in everyday distractions, like loading the dishwasher or briefly leaving the room.

Leash Walking

You might be wondering how to leash train an older dog, especially if you’ve just welcomed a new-to-you rescue. Leash walking might be a challenging activity because your senior dog never learned how to walk politely on-leash and has spent a lifetime pulling, or because your dog is transitioning to a different environment than they’re used to and it’s overwhelming. Learning to stroll instead of sled-dog is an important skill for every dog no matter what age.

The basic premise of leash training is simple: pulling makes the walk stop, and keeping a loose leash means moving forward and getting paid with goodies. When you head out for a walk, load up your pockets with small, soft treats, then reward your dog for staying close to you (perfect heel position is not required). 

The early stages can be a little messy since the only requirement is that your dog doesn’t pull, which means there might be some leash juggling and tripping! If your dog alerts to something and starts pulling toward it, simply stop walking. 

Most dogs will look back at their person after a few seconds of not moving, at which time you can praise them, offer a treat close to your side so your dog comes back into position, and then continue walking. Leash training takes time, but persistence and patience work!

Senior Dog Training: Tips for Success

As with all dogs, the best approach to training senior dogs is using positive reinforcement training, whether doing it on your own at home or in a group setting. The primary consideration with senior dog training is recognizing and working with any physical limitations. For example, dogs with achy joints might need to rest on a throw rug when working on down-stays, or pups dealing with diminished vision might need a brighter training space. Additionally, older dogs tend to pack on pounds easily due to a sedentary lifestyle, so make sure to keep rewards small.

How Long Does it Take to Train an Older Dog?

Based on the old adage, you might think that training an elderly dog is going to be tough, but the reality is that senior dogs have just as much drive, determination, and smarts as the whippersnappers! 

The exact amount of time required to train an older dog depends on factors like the skill of the human end of the leash and the type of behavior that’s being taught, but pet parents with seniors can rest assured that it’s no more difficult than training a newbie. Sure, you might have a few less-than-perfect habits to address, but with a little patience and a commitment to having fun, your senior will be wowing fans in no time!

The post 4 Fun Training Exercises to Do with Senior Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Unfortunately, our dogs aren’t always willing participants when it comes to tasks like at-home dental care, which can make pet parents reluctant to attempt brushing a dog’s teeth. But with a slow and steady approach, dogs of all ages can learn to tolerate this important task.

How to Brush  a Dog’s Teeth: Preparation and Training

Before you try to brush your dog’s teeth, it’s important to have the proper tools and spend time getting your dog familiar with the process. Here’s what you should do in advance of at-home cleaning sessions. 

Tools You’ll Need

The tools you choose for brushing a dog’s teeth matter. You’ll need:

• A toothpaste formulated for dogs
• A dog-specific toothbrush 

Dog toothpaste is formulated specifically to address canine dental health needs. These canine-specific grooming products do not contain foaming agents, potentially dangerous sweeteners like Xylitol, and minty flavoring found in human toothpaste. 

Look for a toothpaste that can control tartar or plaque build-up, and don’t be put off by the fact that it’ll probably be flavored with something like chicken or beef! 

There are a variety of toothbrush shapes and sizes available for dogs. A traditionally shaped bristle brush might be a great fit for a dog with a long snout and easily accessible teeth, while a silicone finger-tip brush might be a better choice for a jowly dog with crowded teeth. However, dogs with a “hard mouth” aren’t a good fit for fingertip brushes, as they might be more likely to accidentally bite down and injure you.

Getting Your Dog Comfortable

The most important part of learning how to brush a dog’s teeth is the time spent helping your dog get comfortable with the process prior to attempting a real cleaning. Most dogs don’t mind the toothpaste aspect since it tastes good, but the mouth manipulation that goes along with brushing can make it feel uncomfortable and a little scary.

Since you’ll be brushing your dog’s teeth frequently you want it to go as smoothly as possible, which means positive pre-work is essential. The best way to get your dog comfortable with the necessary handling is by doing approximations of it using your finger before introducing the toothbrush. Here’s how to do it:

Begin by putting a dollop of dog toothpaste on your finger and letting your dog lick it off. (This step should be super easy!)

Next, put another bit of toothpaste on your finger and place your other hand under your dog’s chin while using the other hand to gently lift the lip. Run your finger along the gums on one side of the mouth, take a quick break to reward with a treat, then repeat on the other side of your dog’s mouth. Take another treat break, then repeat the same steps on the lower teeth. If your dog struggles, you might be moving too fast, or your grip might be too tight. Remember, the goal is to make tooth brushing stress-free.

Once your dog is comfortable with gentle mouth handling, introduce the toothbrush. Let your dog examine it, then quickly lift the lip and touch it to a tooth. Reward, then repeat the steps in different areas of your dog’s mouth. Once your dog seems comfortable with these introductory steps, you’re ready to move on to brushing!

Steps for Brushing a Dog’s Teeth

Investing plenty of time during the introductory training steps should help your dog feel comfortable with the idea of mouth manipulation and brushing, and will translate into no-fuss cleanings. 

The steps to brushing your dog’s teeth are as follows:

Step 1: Make sure both you and your dog are in comfortable positions during the cleaning. It might help to place smaller dogs on a table so it’s easier to see what you’re doing.

Step 2: Gently lift your dog’s lip and start brushing in small circles on the top rear molar on one side of your dog’s mouth, then work your way around to the front teeth, paying attention to the canines. Since the molars collect the majority of buildup it’s important to focus in that area, just in case you have an impatient canine patient who wants you to finish quickly. Continue around the top teeth and work to the molar on the other side, then take a quick break for lots of praise.

Step 3: Bottom teeth can be a little more challenging to reach, particularly because of how the rear molars sit slightly behind the upper when the mouth is closed. You’ll probably have to gently open your dog’s mouth by clasping over the top of the muzzle and lifting the lips to get to this area of your dog’s mouth. Brush in gentle circles, working towards the front teeth, and finish on the molar on the other side.

Step 4: Once you’re finished, celebrate with a treat and lots of praise! (Don’t worry, the toothpaste is formulated to conquer build-up and a little goody won’t ruin your hard work!)

Note: You only have to brush on the side of the tooth that touches the cheeks – your dog’s tongue does the work on the inside!

Benefits of Brushing a Dog’s Teeth

Dental health is a significant part of your dog’s overall wellness. Brushing can help prevent calculus accumulation along the gumline as well as periodontal disease, which is caused by a build-up of plaque and gingivitis. Periodontal disease can lead to tooth loss, and worse, can allow bacteria to enter the bloodstream and cause secondary illnesses of the heart, liver, lungs or kidneys.

Brushing your dog’s teeth regularly also allows you to keep tabs on the condition of your dog’s teeth. Dogs are good at hiding dental pain, which means you might otherwise miss cracked or broken teeth.

And finally, brushing helps keep your dog’s breath fresh, so those doggy kisses stay sweet!

Tips for Successful Tooth Brushing in Dogs

Taking your time during the early training steps is the key to brushing success, and the following tips will help too:

Don’t scrub too hard. No need to go to town when you brush – gentle circles along the teeth and gum line will do the trick.

Don’t force your dog’s mouth open. Wrenching your dog’s mouth open might make them nervous and lead to fearfulness about tooth brushing.

Focus on molars. All of the teeth are important but the molars usually collect the most build-up.

Give rewards for a job well done. It’s okay to give your dog little treats during the process, you won’t negate the work you’re doing!

Get help if you’re worried about reactivity. Feeling overwhelmed because your dog doesn’t want to participate no matter how slowly you go? Talk to your veterinarian or positive reinforcement trainer for support rather than turning this basic task into a battle.

The post Brushing a Dog’s Teeth: Steps and Tips appeared first on Great Pet Care.

It’s understandable to have questions when it comes to the business of #2, partly because it’s one of the least pleasant aspects of pet parenthood (who likes cleaning up all those piles?) and also because your pup’s “deposits” are a major indicator of overall health. But how much is too much, and what can you do if you’re worried about a decrease in poop output?

How Often Do Puppies Poop?

The combination of a pup’s small size, developing digestive tract, frequent meals throughout the day, and nutrient-rich food means that puppies poop a lot. While there’s no across-the-board standard for how often puppies need to poop, most pups between the ages of 8 and 16 weeks have bowel movements an average of four to six times per day, and some have even more. The exact number of times a puppy poops each day varies based on factors that include your pup’s size (a bigger puppy + more food = more poop) and the quality of food they eat. A low-quality dog food might not be easily digestible, resulting in greater output, as well as loose, stinky, strangely-colored stool.  

As puppies grow and mature, the fast and frequent poop production phase will decrease. By the time your puppy hits a year of age, they should be having the more typical adult bowel movement frequency of one to two times per day.

How Long Can a Puppy Go Without Pooping?

Consistent elimination (pooping and peeing) is an indicator of good health, so a sudden change in your pup’s pooping habits could mean that there’s an underlying issue that needs to be addressed. If a puppy who has been “regular” stops pooping for 24 hours or longer, schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out any underlying medical issues, especially if the change in bowel movements is accompanied by a decreased appetite or vomiting. That said, not every reason behind a decrease in poop production is cause for alarm.

Puppy Not Pooping: Common Causes

There’s no single reason why a puppy isn’t pooping, and the following list includes the most common factors why a puppy hasn’t pooped in 12 hours or longer:

Stress

Pups who are just settling into their new home will likely be nervous about the lifestyle changes, leading to infrequent or even nonexistent defecation during the first few days. This can be normal and usually doesn’t require a veterinary visit, but if your puppy isn’t eating, make sure to consult with a veterinarian.

Blockage

Since puppies explore the world with their mouths and are willing to try to eat anything they can grab, the biggest concern with a puppy not pooping is an intestinal blockage. In addition to not pooping, signs that your puppy might have a blockage include a loss of appetite, depression, vomiting, unproductive squatting, and abdominal pain. If you suspect your puppy has eaten something inedible, like a sock or toy that can’t be passed naturally, see your veterinarian immediately. In rare cases, a blockage can be caused by intestinal parasites, specifically roundworms. 

Rapid food switch

Changing a puppy’s food abruptly and without time to adjust to it might lead to a change in pooping habits, from a decrease in output to the opposite extreme, diarrhea. Similarly, switching from a low-quality food to a nutrient-dense food could lead to a decrease in output. If you’re changing your new puppy’s diet, make sure to do so slowly over 5 to 7 days to prevent stomach upset. Each day, add a little more of the new food and a little less of the old food until you’re feeding only the new diet. Whichever food you choose, make sure it’s appropriate for growing puppies!

Dehydration

A puppy who is not drinking enough water can end up constipated, which will lead to either dry, hard-to-pass poop, or no poop at all. Constipated puppies may strain to poop, have a decreased appetite, or throw up. Make sure your puppy always has access to fresh water. If your puppy isn’t drinking water, giving them canned food can increase their water intake due to the higher moisture content. On a hot day, you could make frozen snacks for your pet, which will help them take in more water and keep cool.

Medications

Some medications can impact a puppy’s elimination schedule, but since medications should only be given under a veterinarian’s supervision, your vet will advise about potential poop changes to watch out for. If you have any concerns about changes to your puppy’s poop habits after starting a medication, make sure to consult with your veterinarian before stopping any medications.

What To Do If Your Puppy Isn’t Pooping

A brief change in your puppy’s pooping habits isn’t a cause for concern, especially when coupled with new home stress or a change in food. However, an extended poop-free period coupled with any of the indicators of a blockage, like loss of appetite, abdominal pain, straining to eliminate or vomiting, requires immediate veterinary care. 

In some cases, transitioning to a bland diet of boiled chicken and rice might help settle your pup’s stomach and level out any puppy pooping issues. Adding an appropriate amount of plain canned pumpkin (1 to 2 teaspoons for small pups and 2 to 3 teaspoons for a larger pup) to your puppy’s meals can also help to improve digestive health because of its high water and fiber content. Consult with your veterinarian before using a bland diet for your puppy. It’s best to err on the side of caution when it comes to elimination issues to keep your puppy happy and healthy.

The post How Often Do Puppies Poop? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Some say it’s because these short snouted dogs have human-like baby faces. Others say it’s because those endearing eyes can speak volumes. However, veterinary experts say that what’s most important to know is that these unique-looking dogs, also known as brachycephalic breeds, often face unique health risks that can impact every aspect of their lives.

Improving the overall health of brachycephalic dog breeds can play an important role in reducing these risks, according to the Humane Society Veterinary Medical Association (HSVMA). And now, flat face dog parents have a new tool to help them. 

The pet wellness brand Snubbies has developed dog supplements designed specifically to address the needs of snub-nose dog breeds. And since I share my heart and home with Millie, my adorably smoosh-faced senior Smooth Brussels Griffon, we decided to give Snubbies a try.

Save 20% off your first order with code WELCOME20 (one per customer). 

What are Brachycephalic Dog Breeds?

Brachycephalic dog breeds are characterized by short snouts, flat faces, and (in some breeds) shallow eye sockets that can cause eyes to look oversized or protrude. These characteristics are the result of centuries of selective breeding for these traits.

Many of the most beloved dogs in America are flat faced breeds. In fact, in 2022, the adorably snub nosed French Bulldog displaced the long-reigning Labrador Retriever as the nation’s most prevalent purebred dog breed, according to the American Kennel Club’s annual ranking of dog breeds in the United States. 

In addition to other well-loved short face breeds, such as Bulldogs, Boxers, and Pugs, the following are also categorized as brachycephalic breeds:

• Affenpinscher
• Brussels Griffon
• Bullmastiff
• Boston Terrier
• Cane Corso
• Chow Chow
• Dogue de Bordeaux
• English Toy Spaniel
• Japanese Chin
• Lhasa Apso
• Pekingese
• Shih Tzu

Health Issues of Flat Faced Dogs

Unfortunately, the very same squishy face characteristics many people love so much are also the cause of brachycephalic breeds’ health woes. Due to the unique cranial conformation, flat face dogs are more likely to suffer a wide range of health effects. Most notably, those sweet pushed in faces can lead to respiratory complications known as brachycephalic airway syndrome (BAS) or brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome (BOAS) in some dogs.

While not all brachycephalic dogs will develop BAS, other health concerns could include:

• Breathing issues due to narrow nasal passages
• Obstructed airways due to elongated soft palate 
• Ocular problems and ulcers due to shallow sockets
• Skin problems within folds of excess skin
• Dental disease due to short jaws and crowded teeth
• Hip and joint problems due to heavy bodies on short legs
• Gastrointestinal upset
• Difficulty regulating temperature
• Snoring
• Obesity

How Can Snubbies Dog Supplements Help?

To combat the health risks brachycephalic dogs face, HSVMA urges veterinarians and pet parents to develop a plan to improve the overall health of such breeds with proper preventative care, rather than waiting for a problem to arise. 

That’s what prompted Brian Devening, entrepreneur and proud pet parent of English Bulldogs, to partner with animal health research analysts to launch Snubbies. Using health data on brachycephalic dogs and insights from hundreds of pet parents, the brand developed a premium line of supplements designed to address the needs of brachycephalic breeds.

Snubbies Lineup of Brachycephalic Dog Supplements

With a range of products that cover common snubbie dog health challenges, these daily supplement options are formulated to provide optimum support for our smush face dog friends. Snubbies soft chew daily dog supplements come in five formulas:

Skin + Immune Seasonal Support

Designed with sensitive skin in mind, this supplement contains essential Omega-3 fatty acids, Vitamin E, and nourishing colostrum, which provides amino acids and polypeptides to help promote cell renewal and a healthy immune system. These ingredients work together to nourish healthy skin and strengthen defenses against occasional or seasonal allergies.

Cognitive and Immune Support

This soft chew supplement provides key ingredients to support brain function, memory, and trainability in snub-nosed dogs. Additional ingredients, like the antioxidant CoQ10, promote overall immune health, while colostrum and wild salmon oil provide cognitive support. Natural antioxidants from Vitamin E and rosemary extract help protect cells in the brain and throughout the body.

Calming and Immune Support

Stressed-out or anxious snub-nosed pups may benefit from this blend of calming chamomile and melatonin, combined with ginger root powder, which helps ease the gastrointestinal distress that’s often linked to stress. This formula also contains naturally occurring antioxidants to help balance free radicals and promote overall health. 

Hip + Joint and Immune Support

Brachycephalic breeds are prone to challenges due to their unique body shape. This supplement encourages healthy joints by nourishing not just the cartilage, but also supporting the surrounding joint tissue. Ingredients include glucosamine and chondroitin, which help maintain cartilage and may slow deterioration; methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) to help repair connective tissue; and colostrum for collagen production and vital immune support immunoglobulins.

Eye Health and Immune Support

Brachycephalic dogs have shallower eye sockets, which can cause bulging eyeballs, and this exposes their eyes to an increased risk of injury and everyday irritants. To promote ocular health, this formula includes thiamine (Vitamin B1), which helps promote good eyesight in dogs; colostrum for optimal collagen production, which is key to corneal health; lutein; Vitamins C and E; and wild Alaskan salmon oil to help normal tear production

Save 20% off your first order with code WELCOME20 (one per customer). 

Putting Snubbies Dog Supplements to the Test

While my furry best friend Millie is still incredibly spry for a thirteen-year-old dog, I’m starting to notice health changes that suggest her age is finally starting to catch up with her. She’s a little slower and stiffer, and her eyesight is going, which is why I was excited for her to try both the Hip + Joint and Immune Support Supplement and the Eye Health and Immune Support Supplement from Snubbies.

We’re all about simplicity in our household and the Snubbies supplements really delivered. The supplements come packaged in wide-mouthed, screw-top containers for security and easy access. After calculating the proper dosage according to Millie’s weight, it was simple to incorporate them seamlessly into our daily care routine. 

I thought I might have to hide the supplements in something tasty to convince Millie to take them. But Millie’s enthusiastic reaction to the supplements proved that they’re yummy enough to be given like a treat. I was a little surprised since Millie is an absolute treat snob. But after her initial sniff of the supplement, she took the marble-sized morsels from me and disappeared to another room to savor it privately, which is the ultimate compliment!

After just a few days, Millie started recognizing the sound of the container and would eagerly await her daily dose. Her regular snout-ed sister, Olive, started to get jealous, so I occasionally slipped her a Joint Support supplement, as well! 

Millie has been taking Snubbies eye and joint supplements for just under a month now. While it’s difficult to chart the exact changes, I have noticed some improvement in her vision. She was having trouble tracking small treats thrown on the ground and now she’s better able to zero in on them. I haven’t noticed a dramatic improvement in Millie’s gait and posture, but that could be because she needs more time on the supplements. Also, as a senior pup, I’m not sure how much improvement is to be expected, realistically.

It’s important to note that supplements are supportive care and shouldn’t be considered curative. Measurable improvements to your dog’s health might require a prescription medication from the veterinarian.

Supplement Pros

• Easy to use
• Extremely palatable
• Made in the USA
• Simple and supportive ingredients
• Helps support both physical and cognitive wellbeing
• Can also benefit non-snub-nosed pups

Supplement Cons

• Each chew costs approximately 60 cents, but larger dogs may require multiple chews, which could add up fast
• As a preventative, effects may be hard to measure
• Glycerin is listed as the last ingredient, but it is derived from vegetables, which is preferred for dogs

Snubbies Dog supplements: Our Verdict

My goal is to support my dogs as they progress through seniorhood, and a gentle, easy-to-use dog supplement line like Snubbies is a great way to do just that. While they’re formulated to address the typical concerns of snub-nosed dogs, like eye and joint issues, there’s nothing in the ingredients that prevent them from being used by dogs of all shapes and sizes. My regular-nosed dog Olive seems to appreciate getting her share!

Snubbies Supplements: Tips and Advice

Snubbies Supplements should be taken according to the feeding instructions. Discontinue if your pet gets worse and always seek advice from your veterinarian if you have concerns about your snub nosed pup’s health. Finally, remember that dog supplements are intended to be used as an add-on to a healthy diet and lifestyle. While they can help to improve your pet’s overall well-being, they’re not medication, which means they can’t “cure” ailments.

Save 20% off your first order with code WELCOME20 (one per customer). 

The post Snubbies Dog Supplements Review: Specially Formulated for Snub Nose Dogs appeared first on Great Pet Care.

When crate training a puppy, a certain amount of whining is to be expected, particularly during the introductory stages. But how much canine complaining is too much? And what exactly should you do when you’ve got a crying puppy on your hands? 

Worried pet parents, read on to understand why your pup might be crying in the crate, as well as training tips and tricks for dealing with puppy whining.

Puppy Crying in Crate: What to Expect

A crate is an important training tool during puppyhood. Not only does it streamline the potty training process, but it also keeps your pup safe from harm when you’re not able to watch them. That said, it takes gradual training to make sure your pup feels comfortable inside their new home. And even with a slow and steady introduction to the crate, it’s natural for your pup to resort to occasional whining while inside. 

Pet parents need to remember that whining is an important form of communication. Puppy cries can signify anything from pain, to hunger, to boredom, and everything in between. That’s why it’s important to respond to your pup’s cries and ensure their basic needs are being met. Some whining in the crate is natural, but a puppy screaming in the crate for hours is definitely a sign that something is wrong.

How Long to Let Puppy Cry in Crate

When it comes to determining how long to let a puppy “cry it out” in the crate, the answer is: probably shorter than you think! 

A young puppy just getting used to a new home is likely to be nervous about the unfamiliar environment. Letting an anxious pup cry in their crate for too long could just compound their stress and might even make them reluctant to use the crate. 

You don’t want to leave an older puppy barking in the crate too long, either. Older puppies might cry or bark to signal the need for a potty break, so a prompt response could help you avoid a mess. But your pup might also be letting you know they still have plenty of endless puppy energy to burn. Over-crating a puppy can lead to a multitude of problems, including crate resistance and increased barking. So remember that the crate is a tool and not a lifestyle.

Causes of Puppy Crying in the Crate & What To Do

It may take you a little time to learn how to decode the meaning behind your crated puppy’s crying and whining sounds. Does that cry mean your pup’s a little lonely or in desperate need of a bathroom break?

But it helps to know some of the most likely reasons why a crated puppy might whine or cry for your attention, which include the following:

• Fear/isolation distress – Typically occurs when a puppy feels uncomfortable being left alone
• Elimination whining – Indicates the puppy needs a potty break
• Boredom –  The puppy may not have gotten enough exercise prior to being crated
• Hunger – When the puppy realizes it’s close to mealtime
• Pain – Often points to an ongoing health issue, like teething, or there might be an issue related to the crate itself, like a paw caught in the crate

Since there are many reasons why a puppy might be crying while in the crate, pet parents should try to determine the reason for the puppy whining before attempting to deal with it. In some cases, ignoring the crying for a very brief time could be the right choice. But if the crying escalates or persists, your puppy is likely trying to let you know they need something. Delaying too long could result in undue stress for your pup or a mess for you to clean up.  

How to Respond to Typical Puppy Whining Scenarios

To help pet parents learn how to understand and respond to a puppy crying in a crate, we outlined some common scenarios and solutions.

Puppy crying at night

Potential causes: Fear/isolation distress, elimination whining

The most likely reason for a puppy crying in the crate at night is the need to go out for a bathroom break. Young pups under 12 weeks usually can’t last through an entire night. So if your puppy wakes you in the middle of the night, it usually means you need to head outside for a potty walk ASAP. 

However, pups that are crated in a room by themselves at night might also be suffering from isolation distress. Pups should spend the night crated close to people so they don’t feel abandoned. 

Puppy whining in crate when you leave the room

Potential causes: isolation distress, boredom

This type of crying usually happens during the early stages of crate training, while the pup is still getting used to being in the crate on their own. Make sure that you’re progressing through your pup’s alone-time training slowly. And always exercise your puppy and take a quick trip outside for a potty break before putting them in, to eliminate other causes of crying. It also helps to leave your puppy with a safe, treat-stuffed busy toy when in the crate to keep them occupied. 

Puppy crying in crate all of a sudden

Potential causes: pain, hunger, elimination whining

A puppy that’s been quiet and suddenly launches into crying might need to go outside for a potty trip. However, this type of puppy barking could also signal physical discomfort. A sudden outburst might mean your puppy is ready for the next meal. Or, in some cases, it might signal some sort of physical discomfort.

What if Puppy Won’t Stop Crying in the Crate

If you feel like you’re trying everything, yet your puppy still won’t stop crying in the crate, here are some key troubleshooting tips to try:

• Go back to basics. Leaving a new puppy alone in a crate for long periods of time before they are ready is a recipe for a very unhappy pup. You may need to reset by starting your puppy out with very short periods of alone time in the crate. Then, once they are comfortable, slowly and gradually increase the duration over time.
• Keep the crate in a populated location during the day and a bedroom near people at night to prevent isolation distress.
• Go on a potty walk just before you crate your pup and immediately after letting them out, every time. 
• Offer your puppy a safe chew toy or treat-stuffed puzzle toy to play with when they are crated to encourage a positive association. Supervise play to make sure your pup remains safe. 
• Provide enough exercise before crating to ensure a worn-out pup.

Puppy Crying and Whining in Crate: When to Worry

A certain amount of puppy whining in the crate is part of the crate-training territory. However, for puppies that never settle down in the crate or injure themselves trying to escape, pet parents may have to reconsider whether crating is appropriate. 

Although crating is a solution that works for many dogs, some dogs are resistant to close confinement. A trainer can help determine if behavioral modification can address the issue, or if an alternate confinement solution — such as a puppy-proofed powder room or secure exercise pen — might be a better fit.   

Crate Training Puppy Tips for Success

For most puppies, crying and whining in the crate is a temporary phase that’s simply a part of growing up. However, those cries can sometimes weaken the resolve of even the toughest pet parent. To help pet parents ensure crate training success, here are some pro tips to keep in mind.:

• Never punish your puppy for whining in the crate. Whining is communication which means your puppy is trying to tell you something.
• Try feeding your puppy inside the crate to help foster a positive association with being inside. 
• Hide high-value treats inside the crate for them to discover when they return to the crate. Before long, you may notice that they enter eagerly in the hopes of finding a treat.  
• Don’t over-crate your puppy. Remember that pups have limited “hold times” so don’t force a pup to stay in the crate for longer than they’re physically able. 
• Consider using a white noise machine near the crate to blot out ambient noises.
• Vary the length of your pup’s crate times, doing some sessions as short as fifteen minutes so the crate doesn’t become a symbol of extended alone time.  

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Kicking off this important stage should be planned out in advance, taking your pup’s unique personality into account to make sure that every new experience is a positive one. We take a closer look at how to socialize a puppy, plus share helpful tips and fun activities you can try! 

What is Puppy Socialization?

Puppy socialization is the process of exposing your puppy to novel situations in controlled scenarios, which helps them learn confident and appropriate responses to these new experiences. It’s important to remember that behavior is a mix of genetics and experiences—unfortunately, socialization isn’t a cure-all in every circumstance—but a robust early socialization program might help to prevent future challenges like:

• Generalized fearfulness
• Handling issues
• Discomfort around people and other dogs
• Sound sensitivity
• Reactivity

Socialization used to present a challenge for puppy parents since veterinarians advised keeping puppies home until they’d completed their vaccination series to prevent accidental exposure to infectious diseases. However, the American Veterinary Medical Association revised their stance on socialization to reflect that pups require a variety of positive experiences before their vaccinations are complete, in order to develop important coping mechanisms.

Tackling puppy socialization safely from a physical and mental wellness perspective is key, so read on for our top suggestions!

Puppy Socialization: What You’ll Need 

The puppy socialization process doesn’t require special tools, just great observation skills to confirm that your pup is enjoying the process. Here are some basic items to have on hand:

• High-value treats: You’ll need to reward your pup for their appropriate responses to new scenarios (and sometimes to help encourage them when life gets a little unpredictable), so fill your treat bag with soft, delicious goodies.
• A fixed-length leash and collar/harness: When you’re heading out on the road with your pup, keep their comfort and safety in mind with a 6-foot leash (not a retractable leash) and a collar or harness that they’re already comfortable wearing. Some locations might require that you carry your puppy, but they should still be leashed for safety.
• Favorite toys: Making friends is the name of the game, and there’s no better way to do it than playing together. 
• Water: Socialization can be thirsty work, so bring a bowl or dispenser that your pup has used at home.

How to Socialize a Puppy: 6 Tips and Activities to Try

Remember that socializing your puppy should be gentle and positive, and should progress at your pup’s pace. The goal is to prevent overstimulation (which might read as intense play), fearfulness, or complete withdrawal from the scenario. Your puppy should always have a choice about interacting, so don’t force a reluctant pup to engage if they prefer to watch from the sidelines. The following ideas are a great start to your puppy socialization process:

Puppy classes

A well-run puppy socialization class considers all aspects of safety, from maintaining a clean environment to making sure that class size and canine attendees are appropriate. The classes should be run by knowledgeable instructors who understand canine body language. The best classes allow time for positive puppy play, which improves canine communication, as well as short manners and training lessons. There should also be time to answer pet parent questions.  

Host an in-home puppy party

Inviting a variety of friends over to meet your new pup is a wonderful way to help your new pup learn that people = fun and goodies. However, this doesn’t mean you should host a rager! Inviting a few well-mannered people over at a time will allow you to stay on top of your pup’s responses to make sure that the meeting is going well. Include as many different types of people as possible over the course of several get togethers, including senior citizens, children who listen well, people in hats or those who have facial hair, as well as people who are differently abled. Tell your visitors to let the puppy set the pace for greetings, and make sure everyone has plenty of treats to reward for positive interactions.

Hang out with adult canine friends

Visiting friends with tolerant adult dogs can help round out the work done during puppy classes. Remember that some adult dogs don’t appreciate puppy shenanigans, so choose your grown-up play pals wisely. A well-socialized adult dog will tolerate a certain amount of inappropriate puppy behavior (puppies don’t know how to “dog” yet, so it’s normal!) but will dole out a gentle correction if the puppy gets to be too much.

Human errands

Many pet parents are surprised to learn that public spaces like banks and dry cleaners are often dog friendly, which allow for new sounds, smells, and people. Taking your pup on errands is a fantastic way to visit new environments without putting your puppy at risk. These locations are almost “undercover” socialization spots, which means they’re probably not frequented by other dogs with unknown vaccination backgrounds, making them safer to visit than locations like the doggy supply superstore. Plus, your pup will probably meet a few new fans while there!

New sounds

Help your pup learn to tolerate potentially scary noises like the vacuum, oven timer, and hairdryer by turning them on at a distance and giving your pup a steady stream of goodies while they run. The moment the sound stops, the treat party does too, so your pup starts to associate loud noises with good stuff.

Veterinarian drop-ins

The goal of vet visits is to make future appointments stress-free by keeping the sessions purely positive. Check in with the front desk staff before visiting to make sure it’s okay. Once you arrive, carry your pup to an exam room for fun exploration and lots of treats. Place your pup on the exam table and do some quick handling exercises, like looking in the ears and at the teeth, and pair the process with lots of praise and goodies.

The Goal of Socialization: Confident, Well-Adjusted Puppies

There’s a ton to cover when it comes to socializing your new puppy, but the process should be fun for both ends of the leash. Done properly, socialization will help your puppy gain the skills to be comfortable in all sorts of different environments with a variety of people and animals. And more importantly, dog friendly socialization will teach your pup that no matter what happens, you’re always there to be an advocate and protector.

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Excitement urination typically happens during highly charged happy scenarios, particularly during greetings and play. While it can be frustrating for pet parents to keep cleaning up, excitement pee can be resolved with a combination of management techniques plus a little time to mature. 

Not sure how to teach your dog not to pee when excited? Read on!

Why Do Dogs Pee When Excited?

We might assume that every puddle in the house is a sign of a lapse in potty training, but that’s not the case when it comes to excitement urination. 

Keep in mind that a dog that pees when excited is dealing with an involuntary reaction – the pup might be perfectly housetrained in all other scenarios. 

It’s a common behavior in puppies because they haven’t fully developed the muscles to control urination, and the good news is that most dogs grow out of the behavior as they get older.

Excitement Urination in Dogs vs Submissive Urination

While excitement urination and submissive peeing might seem like the same thing, the two are related but distinct challenges. Both behaviors can occur in similar scenarios, like when people arrive home, but pet parents should watch their dog’s body language to determine which type of elimination they’re dealing with. 

A dog that urinates when excited will probably display other behaviors that convey happiness, like a relaxed face, wiggly body language, and a broadly wagging tail.

Dogs displaying submissive urination often look nervous or uncomfortable. They might lower themselves to the ground, keeping the tail tucked against the body, flatten their ears, lick their lips frequently, or even roll over onto the back as they eliminate. In the dog world this type of body language is a way to appease higher ranking individuals. 

How to Stop a Dog From Peeing When Excited

Wondering how to stop excitement urination in dogs? The first step, before attempting training, is to schedule an appointment at the veterinarian to rule out any health issues, like a UTI. Once you’ve gotten an “all clear” try the following tips to help treat excitement peeing.

Keep greetings low key. Of course you’re excited to greet your best friend when you arrive home, but over-the-top hellos can lead to leaks. Rather than making a big deal about your reunion with a loud, happy voice and lots of petting, try letting your dog greet you while maintaining a mellow vibe. Refraining from reaching out to touch your dog can help as well.

Consider moving greetings outside. You won’t have to worry about cleaning your throw rugs when you say hello on the sidewalk or grass. However, keep in mind that if you have to leash your dog in order to safely greet outdoors, the act of leaning over your dog to put the leash on might trigger urination. If an unleashed outside greeting isn’t possible, keep your reunions indoors but roll up the rugs until your pup has a little more bladder control.

Watch your body language. We don’t always realize how our nonverbal communication impacts our dog’s behaviors. For example, reaching over your pup and giving exuberant pats on the head and back might seem like a wonderful way to say howdy, but it could be more excitement than your dog can handle without accidentally dribbling. Instead, try squatting down facing away from your dog and gently petting your dog’s shoulders or side.

Tone down the volume. Related to body language, our voices can amp up our dog’s excitement as well. Rather than using a high pitch or booming voice during greeting, keep your tone low and soft.

Redirect with treats or toys. Giving your dog a “job” can help shift the focus during a greeting. A toy-driven dog might appreciate the chance to latch onto a stuffie, and a treat-driven dog might enjoy scooping up a handful of tiny treats that you’ve tossed onto the floor. However, there’s a fine line between delivering these goodies in a quiet way and turning them into yet another thing to pee about!  

Manage guest greetings. Rather than trying to deal with your guests and your peeing pooch at the door, consider putting your pup away as you welcome people into your home and let everyone get settled in before letting your dog out to meet them. Help everyone understand the proper way to interact with your dog to prevent accidental triggers.

In Conclusion

Remember, this behavior is involuntary, meaning your dog can’t control it. That’s why it’s especially important to never punish your dog for excitement urination. Punishment might shift excitement peeing into submissive urination, which adds a layer of complexity to the training process. 

If your dog leaves an accidental dribble on the ground the best bet is to avoid making a big deal about it and then clean it with a good pet odor eliminator.

With the right behavioral modification techniques, management, and time, a dog who pees when excited will grow out of the behavior, and you and your best friend will enjoy happy (and dry!) hellos!

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Lathering up can be stressful for puppies if the right steps aren’t taken. That’s why it helps to initiate a slow and steady puppy grooming process. 

By giving your puppy time to acclimate to bathing at a young age, you can ensure a lifetime of safe, comfortable baths and grooming sessions. In this article, we’ll discuss how to begin the process with your new pup.

Puppy Bath Basics

Let’s face it, taking a bath can seem pretty overwhelming to a young puppy. Between the novel location, noise, sensation of the water, unfamiliar scents, and strange body handling, bath time can be downright scary! That’s why the initial parts of training are so critical. Like most things when it comes to training a new puppy, getting ready for a bath takes preparation and patience.

So, when can puppies have their first bath? The old advice was to wait to bathe a puppy until 6 months of age. However, waiting that long can result in a number of problems, from the physical – like difficult-to-clean matted fur – to the developmental, where the puppy is so scared that bathing becomes a messy nightmare. 

You can avoid these issues by beginning basic training within the first few weeks of bringing your puppy home, then attempting a real bath once your puppy seems confident with all of the steps. Starting off tub time with short and sweet training sessions will help both you and your new pup learn to enjoy the scrubbing process.

Things to Consider Before Bathing a Puppy

Remember that everything about bathing a puppy is a brand new experience for your dog. Before you turn on the tap and get to washing, it’s important to introduce all of the parts of the process first. 

Take your time familiarizing your puppy with bath time routines  and essentials before you try your first puppy bath:

• Give your puppy a chance to explore the bathing area, whether it’s a dog bath tub or the kitchen sink. Make it a positive experience by giving your pup treats while she checks it out, or better yet, spread peanut butter on the porcelain for your pup to enjoy. The goal is to establish a positive association to the space.

• Allow your pup to see and sniff the products and tools you’ll be using, like puppy shampoo and brushes.

• Get your pup used to the sound of the water by turning it on low while she’s nearby but not in the tub or sink. Give her treats as the water flows, then stop giving them when you turn the water off.

• Once your puppy is comfortable in the bathing area, begin to mimic the sort of handling you’ll do during a bath. Give small treats, then handle each area of your puppy, like gently rubbing her fur, picking up her paws, covering her ears and eyes as you’ll do when rinsing, and massaging her tail and rump. Don’t forget to give her lots of praise!

• Finally, help your dog feel comfortable with post-bath toweling off and brushing by rubbing the towel along your dog’s back then giving a treat several times in a row.

The goal of this preparation is to give your puppy a positive association to every step of bath time.

How to Bathe a Puppy: What You’ll Need

There’s more to giving a puppy a bath than just puppy shampoo. (Though that is on our list of must-haves!) To make the most of your tub time you’ll need the following puppy essentials:

• A high-quality shampoo and conditioner. It’s best to not penny pinch on bathing products because low-cost puppy shampoos often contain potentially harmful ingredients. Look for USA sourced and made products with minimal additives and chemicals. Avoid shampoos with complicated ingredient lists, or vague descriptors like “fragrance,” but keep in mind that some scary-sounding names are actually dog-safe preservatives that prevent mold growth. 

• The right location. Petite pups might be more comfortable in a smaller dog bath tub, like the kitchen or laundry room sink. Bathing a new puppy outside with a hose isn’t a good idea since you can’t regulate the water temperature. It’s easiest to bathe using a hand shower attachment, but if that’s not an option, use a plastic container for rinsing.

• Towels. You’ll need plenty of them! Tubs and sinks get slippery, so consider placing one on the bottom that your pup can stand on, as well as one to step on for the big post-bath shake off. And of course you’ll need one for drying off afterwards too.

• A brush or comb. Long-haired pups will need to be brushed out after a bath, so select the right type of bristles for your dog’s fur.

Step by Step: How to Bathe a Puppy

Okay, now that you’ve done all of your pre-bath prep, you and your pup are ready for the main event: puppy’s first bath! 

1. Before you begin, grab some peanut butter and a handful of treats so you can reward your pup for her bravery, along with the rest of your supplies.

2. Spread some peanut butter on the wall as you turn the water on low and check the temperature. It should be warm to the touch but not hot. Place your pup in the tub when the temperature feels comfortable.

3. Direct a gentle stream of water to your pup’s paws first and give treats (or let her lick the peanut butter), then slowly bring the nozzle up to dampen the rest of your puppy’s body. If your pup is nervous about the sound of the water, try gently pressing the nozzle to her body with the water very low. 

4. Once your puppy’s body is thoroughly wet, dilute the shampoo according to the directions on the bottle and begin to gently lather, starting along your dog’s spine and working your way down.

5. Use a washcloth to wash your pup’s face, making sure to avoid the eyes and ears. When rinsing, cover your dog’s eyes with your palm, and then gently cover the ears to prevent water from getting inside.

6. After rinsing (and keep in mind that it might take several rinses to get all of the soap out), place the suggested amount of conditioner on your pup’s coat, give her more peanut butter or treats during the conditioning period, then rinse thoroughly.

7. Once your pup is fully rinsed, help her out of the tub, allow her to shake off, and then towel her off until dry.

Puppy Bathing FAQs

When can you bathe a puppy?

Moving into a new home can be stressful, so it’s best to give puppies time to get used to their environment before attempting the first bath. Most puppies can have their first bath between 8-12 weeks of age. However, it’s fine to begin the introductory steps right away. 

How often should I bathe my puppy?

How often to bathe a puppy depends on factors like your puppy’s lifestyle and coat type. Active outdoor pups will likely need more frequent bathing. 

Can you take a puppy to the groomer?

Some canine coat types require grooming, like Poodles and Bichons, so it’s a good idea to help your puppy understand that the salon is a fun place to visit. Schedule an introductory appointment before your pup actually requires grooming so that your groomer can set your puppy up for a lifetime of happy, stress-free visits. 

What should pet parents do about matted fur?

Matted fur is more than just a cosmetic issue. Mats can cause serious health problems, from restricted movement to pain, so treating them, or better yet, preventing them, is important for your dog’s wellbeing. Dogs with longer fur should be brushed daily to prevent matting, and clothing like sweaters and jackets should be removed regularly to prevent mats from forming.

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It’s crucial to create a special “zen zone” where your pup can relax when you’re not around to supervise. But you might be wondering: where is the best place for a puppy’s crate?

It may come as a surprise that there’s no one perfect spot for a puppy crate. In fact, there are probably several options within your home that will work for both you and your pup. That said, there are also some no-go regions where you should avoid putting your puppy’s crate. The following tips will help you get started on picking the perfect crate space for your puppy.

Factors to Consider Placing Your Puppy’s Crate

Your puppy needs to be crated for a number of reasons, including:

• Safety: A puppy crate keeps your dog from chewing inappropriate items like your shoes, the TV remote, electrical wires, furniture, and the garbage can when you’re not available to supervise. 

• Potty Training: Using a crate encourages pups to refrain from eliminating since most dogs won’t soil where they sleep. This is considered a primary reason for crate training a puppy.

• Relaxation: Many pups like to take a break in a quiet spot away from the hubbub of the house.

Keeping all of this in mind will help you determine the best spot, or more likely, spots, for your puppy’s crate. 

For example, the safety aspect means you should keep the crate away from items that could become accidental chewing targets and be pulled into the crate, like curtains or wires. And when it comes to potty training, speed is everything, so the crate should be kept in a location that’s a quick jog to a door. A big part of crate time is helping your puppy learn to relax inside, so you’ll want to pick a location that’s quiet enough to allow for napping, but not a completely isolated area like the basement or garage.

Puppy Crate Location During Training

Every puppy needs an acclimation period to adjust to being in the crate, and it’s helpful to keep the crate in a central location during that training phase. This training process involves brief periods of your puppy hanging out in the crate with you nearby, and then as you progress, with you out of the room. Keeping the crate in a central location during training, like the kitchen or family room, will help your pup learn to accept and appreciate being in there.

Once your puppy is content in the crate, you can move it to a spot in the house that’s close to the daily goings on but quiet enough to encourage lots of puppy naps.

Bedtime presents a new challenge because before you can celebrate your young puppy sleeping through the night, they’ll most likely need to go outside for a midnight (or later) potty break. This means that you need to be able to hear your pup upon waking. Pet parents can either keep the crate in the bedroom so they’re able to hear when their puppy starts signaling, or in a nearby room that’s still close enough to listen for the “I gotta go” whines. A baby monitor set up near the crate can help bridge the gap if necessary.

Where is the Best Place for a Puppy’s Crate?

The best place for your puppy’s crate will depend on your preferences, your house setup, and your puppy. Every household is different, so while a single perfect crate location doesn’t exist, there are some pros and cons to consider with each option.

Here are some of the most ideal places for a puppy’s crate and some considerations to keep in mind. 

Bedroom

With a young puppy, having the crate in your bedroom can make potty training easier and help you avoid messes in the crate. Bedrooms also tend to be quiet, relaxing spaces that allow for dog downtime. 

Pros

• You’re close enough to hear when your puppy needs to go out for a potty break
• Bedrooms are quiet and relaxing spaces

Cons

• Light sleepers (canine and human) might not appreciate their companion’s night sounds

Living Room/Family Room

If you want to keep your puppy close by during the day, the living room or family room is a natural place to keep your puppy’s crate. There are even some dog crate furniture options that double as living room furniture! 

Pros

• It’s a central location in the house so the puppy isn’t isolated
• You’ll be able to spend time with your puppy while crate training

Cons

• Some living rooms might be too busy and make it difficult for a dog to relax
• If your living room is far from your bedroom, it might be tough to hear your puppy at night

Kitchen

This kitchen is the heart of the home and is often an ideal choice for your puppy’s crate location. Kitchens often have quick access to the outdoors for potty breaks and cleaning in a kitchen tends to be easier than other rooms in the home.

Pros

• The puppy remains a part of daily life
• Many kitchens have quick access to the outdoors
• Kitchens tend to have durable flooring, making cleaning easier

Cons

• There might be too much noise and activity for the puppy to adequately settle
• If your kitchen is removed from your bedroom, hearing a puppy at night could be tough

Finished Basement

A finished, downstairs basement can be a good place for your puppy’s crate if you spend time down there as a family. Finished basements are often durable and this placement allows you to keep the crate out of sight in your main living areas. However, it’s not a good idea to put a crate in the basement if it’s an area of the house that is rarely used. And we never recommend placing a puppy’s crate in an unfinished basement. 

Pros

• It’s quiet
• It keeps your puppy’s crate from messing with your home’s decor

Cons

• It might be too isolated from the rest of the house

Tips for Choosing the Best Place for a Puppy’s Crate

From the floor plan of the house itself to the way family members utilize the space (one person’s isolated basement could be another family’s hangout spot), every house has its own unique quirks. 

And don’t forget – every puppy has their own unique quirks, too, which means where you put your puppy’s crate ultimately comes down to what works best for everyone. When selecting a location for your puppy’s crate, consider using the following checklist:

• It’s a relatively peaceful place
• The temperature is comfortable and consistent
• There’s easy access to the outside
• You can hear when your puppy tells you it’s time for nighttime potty trips
• There’s nothing nearby that your puppy can access, like cords or curtains
• It’s not near anything potentially stressful, like construction noise outside, a loud washing machine, or a busy hallway

Troubleshooting the Location of Your Puppy’s Crate

Can I move the crate to different locations?

It’s perfectly fine to move your puppy’s crate around your home. In fact, the crate can function as your puppy’s familiar “home away from home” when you travel to new places.

Is it okay to use multiple crates?

Yes! Having multiple crates can be especially helpful if you have a bigger puppy, since it’s challenging to be constantly moving an oversized crate. Keeping a primary crate in one spot and a secondary in your bedroom prevents having to haul a large crate around.

What if my puppy whines at night?

A little bit of puppy commentary in the crate is normal during the settling-in process, but a middle-of-the-night whine usually equals a potty break (which is why you need to keep the crate close enough that you can hear when your puppy cries). After the potty trip, make sure to gently place your pup back in the crate for the rest of the night.

Puppy Crate Location: Final Thoughts

Finding the perfect location for crate training puppies is all about choosing a space that helps your dog feel comfortable and safe, and is also convenient for you at the same time. It may take a little trial and error, but in time, you and your new best friend will find a mutually agreeable crate zone that makes puppy crate training a breeze.

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Why Dog Walking Is So Important

The most obvious reason many of us walk our dog is hygiene—we do it to give them a chance to go potty. But there are so many other reasons why walking is a great idea for the health and wellness of your best friend. Walking expends energy while giving your dog a chance to take in the sights and sounds of your neighborhood (both of which can also help to take the edge off activity levels). Plus, enjoying the great outdoors with your pup is a wonderful way to strengthen your bond … if you do it the right way!

7 Mistakes to Avoid When Walking Your Dog

Some of these leash walking mistakes might come as a surprise because they’re subtle. The following are a few of the ways we might be falling short when it comes to walking our dogs:

Using the wrong type of leash

Believe it or not, this simple tool can have a major impact on the quality of the walk for both you and your dog. Leashes that are too short can take the fun out of walks for your dog because they don’t allow for sniffing, and leashes that are too long put your dog at risk for accidental confrontations or veering into traffic. And retractable leashes have a list of issues, from causing rope burn, to snapping under pressure, to encouraging pulling due to the constant pressure on the string. The best leash option for your dog is a 5- to 6-foot fixed length leash that’s thin enough to be comfortable for your dog but thick enough to keep them safe. 

Using old school tools for pulling

Prong and choke collars might seem like quick fixes for dogs with a leash pulling habit, but the fact is they’re now considered outdated because we have more dog-friendly tools available to combat the tendency. No-pull harnesses that fit around your dog’s torso or legs address pulling in a gentle way that doesn’t rely on pain to train.

Requiring heel position

Heel used to be the go-to walk position but the reality is it’s an unnatural and unenjoyable way for your dog to navigate the great outdoors. Leash walks are your dog’s opportunity to sniff and connect with the world around them and forcing your dog to remain glued to your side prevents your pup from doing so. Heel is a competition obedience behavior that slipped into the real world and shouldn’t be a part of your casual neighborhood walks. As long as your dog keeps a gentle curve in the leash and walks without pulling, you’re good to go, no heel necessary!

Not allowing sniffing

While walks sometimes feel like a chore to you, they’re cherished recreation for your dog that gives them the chance to connect to their environment. While scanning the horizon is part of it, dogs need the chance to pause to really breathe in the scents around them. Hurrying your dog along deprives them of the opportunity to learn what’s happening in the neighborhood, from the other dogs that have already passed by to the creatures that scurry along at night. Plus, most dogs require time to sniff before they choose where to eliminate. Dogs need a solid pause of at least five seconds to get a read on a scent, and longer to really understand it. Depriving your dog of this wonderful and enriching experience can take the fun out of your daily walks.

Being on the phone

We get it—you’re busy. But disconnecting from your pooch to plug into your phone deprives both of you the chance to bond during your walk. Leash walks should be an adventure that you enjoy as a team, and that can’t happen if you’ve got your eyes glued to a screen. And not only that, being on your phone could be downright dangerous if your dog spots something chase-worthy while you’re not paying attention. Next thing you know you’ve got a cracked phone and a dog disappearing in the distance! Staying connected to your dog, not your phone, during walks will keep both of you safe and happy.

Not acknowledging check-ins

This one is subtle but it’s so important to keep your bond strong. If you’re not paying attention to your dog (perhaps you’re on your phone?), you’ll be unable to experience those beautiful moments of connection when your best friend glances up at you as if to say, “Ain’t this is fun?” Telling your dog “good job” or better yet, offering a treat when it happens, will help your dog learn that checking in with you is a good thing, which in turn can decrease pulling and increase the strength of your bond. Choosing to look at you despite all of the intriguing distractions around you during a walk is a huge compliment, so make sure to let your dog know that you appreciate it!

Walking the same route

Your dog is probably happy to hit any street or trail, but walks become even more fun when you switch it up! Walking in a different place gives your dog a chance to experience new sights and scents, which is inherently enriching. It’s important to give your dog safe, novel experiences for mental exercise, but the good news is you don’t have to travel to the mountains to make it happen. Something as simple as walking a parallel street, or beginning your walk where you normally end, is enough to provide a new and exciting adventure.

Dog Walking Essentials

Of course you need a leash, collar or harness, and waste bags when you go for a walk, but there are other important items to consider when you’re heading outside:

• Treats: Whether you’re still refining your dog’s leash manners or you’ve got a slowed-down senior, you should still fill your pockets with some goodies to reward your dog for their polite walking. 
• A collapsible water bowl: Going for a walk on a hot day? Don’t forget your dog’s travel bowl. With tons of sizes and shapes to choose from, you’re sure to find a bowl that’s light enough for you to carry and that your dog feels comfortable using. (Some even allow for shared sipping!)
• Reflective materials or lights: If you’re walking at night, your dog needs a way to be seen. A leash with a reflective band in it or lights that attach to your pup’s collar can help to prevent accidents.

Identification: Even if your dog is chipped, it’s a safe bet to outfit your dog with an ID tag that contains your contact info. In many cases, it’s the quickest way for a runaway dog to find their way home to you.

The post 7 Dog Walking Mistakes You Might Be Making appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Most pet parents don’t want to reach into their dog’s mouth to pull out the offending object, but the alternative—letting your dog swallow it—isn’t an option either. Enter: “drop it.” 

The “drop it” cue can be a literal lifesaver when your dog has grabbed something dangerous, but it can also be used in casual daily interactions, like during a round of fetch or tug. The more you incorporate the “drop it” into your dog’s training repertoire, the easier it’ll be to use it in situations where you need it.

Why Teach “Drop It”?

Dogs are curious by nature, and their active noses often lead them to grab stuff they shouldn’t. Trying to wrangle contraband away isn’t a great idea since dogs love to try to eat all sorts of gross things. Plus, most dogs play to win when it comes to tug-of-war with stinky prizes. And some contraband needs to be dealt with immediately, like medication that fell on the floor.

“Drop it” also comes in handy if you have a dog that doesn’t want to release the ball during games of fetch or for dogs that get super intense during tug. Asking your dog to “drop” allows for a break in the action and can make playtime even more fun.

Before You Begin

Some dogs can become possessive when they grab something they value—whether it’s a wooden spoon snagged from the dishwasher or a dirty sock—and they may engage in resource guarding to prevent you from taking it away. 

If your dog stiffens, growls, or lunges when you move toward him to retrieve stolen goods, consider enlisting the help of a qualified positive reinforcement trainer. 

Keep in mind that every dog has a hierarchy of goods, so before you begin “drop it” training, you need to understand what your dog values. It’s easiest to start the training process with low-value items that your dog will happily relinquish to get a treat.

And of course, you’ll need to load up on high-value treats since you’ll be doing multiple trials during each training session. The treats have to be more interesting than the item you’ll be using for drop training, so opt for goodies like bits of cheese, lunch meat, or hot dogs.

Finally, keep your lessons upbeat and happy. Sure, figuring out how to teach a dog to drop it is important for safety reasons and can feel a little stressful, but you’ll be more successful if you keep the training process fun. 

How to Teach “Drop It” in 9 Steps

Once you’ve identified an item low on your pup’s hierarchy, you’re ready to train your dog to drop it. For play-motivated dogs, this might be their least favorite ball. For food-motivated pups, try an empty rubber treat-dispensing toy usually filled with goodies.

Step 1: Offer the item to your dog and let him take it in his mouth. Don’t force him to take the object, if he’s not interested in it, find another equally low-value item.

Step 2: Place a treat close enough to your dog’s nose that he can smell it and wait for him to release the item in anticipation of getting the treat. 

Step 3: Give your dog the treat as soon as he lets go of the item and praise him for doing a good job. Many dogs will gobble up the treat and try to grab the item again, so if your dog manages to snag it, repeat the process, but this time toss the treat a few steps away so your dog has to chase after it and you have time to pick it up before your dog does.

Step 4: Offer the item to your dog again, and once it’s in his mouth, repeat step three.

Step 5: If you’ve been holding the treat in front of your dog’s nose to get him to drop the item, try a few repetitions so that the treat is visible but not close to your dog, like at your side. This prevents the treat from becoming a required part of the “drop it” process; your dog shouldn’t have to see the treat to relinquish the item.

Step 6: Once your dog quickly releases the object, begin adding the word “drop” or “drop it” right as he lets go of it. At this stage, you’re teaching your dog by pairing the word or phrase with the action he’s performing. Your dog should start to make the connection after about ten repetitions, at which time you can give your dog the item and ask him to “drop.”

Step 7: Remember that a few successes in a training scenario don’t equal “drop it” mastery. Move up your dog’s hierarchy by working with more challenging objects, like a favorite toy or a piece of dry pasta. And don’t forget to follow up every victory with a treat.

Step 8: Continue practicing in various environments like outside, starting with low-value objects and gradually increasing the value of what you’re asking your dog to drop.

Step 9: Once your dog is reliably dropping when you ask, try a few “cold trials” by planting preferred objects on the ground around the house and outside and ask your dog to “drop it.” A speedy response in these challenging scenarios means that your dog knows what he’s doing.

What If My Dog Won’t Drop It? Helpful Tips

If you’re trying to teach your dog how to drop items, but it’s not working, consider the following potential issues: 

You’re using boring treats. “Drop it” can be a challenging cue, so make sure you give your dog high-value treats for his hard work.

You tried to jump from training trials to real-life too quickly. Just because your dog nails “drop it” in your family room with an old sock doesn’t mean that he’ll automatically be able to do it when he grabs a hamburger wrapper on the street. It takes time and attention to perfect this cue in the real world.

You stopped practicing. You and your dog need to keep the “drop it” muscle in good shape by working on it frequently. This is a “use it or lose it” cue, so never stop working on it.

Once you and your dog have mastered the “drop it” cue, you’ll be amazed at how handy it is. The next time you come across a chicken bone on your walk, you’ll be thrilled that you and your dog spent time working on the right cue to have him let go of it.

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This trick is the perfect way for you and your dog to have fun for fun’s sake, plus it’s a great way to impress all of your dog’s fans. 

The roll over dog trick might seem complex, but the secret to success is dividing the behavior into small, easy-to-achieve steps. 

Why Teach a Dog to Roll Over?

Any dog training you and your dog do together is great for your relationship. Positive, dog-friendly training gives you a common language and allows your dog to experience more freedom, plus it’s a phenomenal way to cement your bond. Done the proper way, training is fun for both ends of the leash. 

What’s even more fur for you and your pup is trick training. The pressure is off when you work on tricks; sure, your dog needs to have a solid recall and dependable “stay” to help keep him safe, but it doesn’t matter if his “spin” is sloppy or his “wave” isn’t perfect. The most important part of trick training is that “brain training” is one of the best ways to wear out your busy pup and teaching them tricks is cute.

Roll Over Dog Trick: Before You Begin

Your pup will be spending a fair amount of time on his side and back as you work through this trick, so pick a training spot that’s comfortable. A quiet, carpeted space is best. You’ll be giving your pup many treats during the initial stages of training, so load up on tiny (about the size of a fingernail), high-value treats. 

It’s helpful to use a clicker when training “roll over” because things move fast, and some of the behaviors your dog will be doing might be tough to catch. You can also use a marker word like “yes” to bridge your dog’s successful attempts to the food reward.

How to Teach a Dog to Roll Over: 6 Easy Steps

A fun and creative way to teach roll over is “shaping,” which breaks down a complex behavior into small, manageable steps and makes it easy for your dog to be successful.

Think of it as the childhood game of “hot and cold.” You’re using the marker to let your dog know when he’s “getting warmer” and rewarding him for it, which will make him less likely to give up. Instead of capturing the whole behavior right away, shaping allows your dog to get treats for approximations of the finished product. When using shaping, you build the behavior, bit by bit, until you have an adorable dog rolling over.

Here are the steps to teaching your dog to roll over:

Step 1: Lure your dog into a “down” position by using a treat to get him to put his belly on the ground (asking for a “down” turns the roll over trick into a two-step process). Place the treat in front of your dog’s nose and slowly bring it downwards and between his front paws. Most dogs are already familiar with this luring motion and will plop into position quickly.

Step 2: While your dog has his belly on the ground, watch for any small movements. This step is where you want your dog to be creative–he’s not sure what you want from him, but he’ll likely keep trying different things to earn a treat. Anything from a paw swat to a head bob can signify the beginning of the rolling process, so mark these gestures with the clicker or marker word, then follow up with a treat.

Step 3: After a few repetitions of marking and rewarding whatever movement your dog is offering, hold off and wait for your dog to do something more obvious (if you keep rewarding the same behavior, your dog won’t do anything else because it’s “working” to get a reward). So, if your dog was flicking his paw, withhold marking and rewarding the gesture. He’ll likely get frustrated that he’s not earning a reward and will try something different, like scooting his entire shoulder as if to say, “don’t you see what I’m doing?” Mark and reward the new behavior for several repetitions, then continue the sequence of waiting for a bigger, more obvious behavior to replace the one you were rewarding.

Step 4: The first time your dog shifts from one side of his body to the other – the middle part of the roll over trick – is worthy of a major celebration. Mark the moment your dog’s body is in motion and follow up with a treat, but toss it a few steps away so your dog has to get up to eat it. Now you’re both ready to go through the entire sequence again, although your dog will probably work through the process quicker this time. That said, it’s natural to experience stops and starts at first, so don’t be surprised if your dog needs a quick refresher before he executes the entire roll sequence again.

Step 5: It’s always best to wait until a behavior is polished before you try to add the cue to it. Once your dog has streamlined the steps, you can begin attaching a word to the process, meaning he quickly moves from a standing position and through the roll sequence. To add the cue, say “roll over” right as he’s doing it, mark the behavior with the clicker or word, and give him a treat. This step makes the association between what your dog is doing and the cue that triggers it. Repeat this step a dozen times, saying the word as your dog performs the behavior to cement the association between the cue and the behavior.

Step 6: Try the request without any preamble once your dog has made the connection and ask your dog to roll over. Be ready to have a major party the first time he executes the entire sequence – lots of treats and tons of praise.

Other Tips to Get Your Dog Rolling Over in No Time

Remember to watch your body language as you work on this behavior. If you teach it while sitting on the ground, your dog might not understand what to do when you ask him to roll over while you’re standing up. Start the teaching process next to your dog on the ground, but switch your position to standing up as your dog becomes more familiar with the steps.

Using a small treat to lure your dog through the entire roll sequence is an option as well (envision holding the treat in front of your dog’s nose and making a circular motion), but many pet parents discover that dogs are excellent contortionists and wind up focusing on the food more than what their bodies are doing, which can slow the process. And some dogs can snag the treat without rolling over, particularly smaller pups. This can be frustrating for both teacher and student! Using shaping to teach the roll over trick allows your dog to set the pace and get rewarded quickly for his attempts, which makes the training process fun.

Tricks like roll over might seem silly, but there are real benefits beyond the obvious appeal. Allowing your dog the space to think creatively through shaping and working together as a team will strengthen your bond and make the two of you a hit any time you have an audience.

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This behavior is called resource guarding in dogs, and it’s shocking when a canine friend you know shows a side you’ve never seen, especially when it’s an aggressive response directed at you. 

Being on the receiving end of guarding behaviors can be scary, and these behaviors can escalate and become dangerous. That said, resource guarding in dogs is actually a common training issue and can be managed effectively if treated properly.  

What is Resource Guarding in Dogs?

Resource guarding is a dog’s tendency to freeze, growl, snap or bite when they believe that something they value is threatened. And, believe it or not, it is a normal canine behavior. 

In the wild, staking claims over food and turf can mean the difference between life and death. 

Occasional resource guarding behavior between dogs in multi-dog homes is typical and often ritualized to the point where the behaviors are challenging for pet parents to detect. For example, a dog chewing on a bone might briefly raise his lip to expose his teeth mid-chew if a sibling dog gets too close. This subtle display is usually enough to prevent a full confrontation.

Signs of Resource Guarding in Dogs

Resource guarding exists on a spectrum, both in terms of the behaviors a dog uses to try to establish ownership and the types of items dogs opt to guard. 

Some dogs are drawn to guard more than just consumables like food and bones. A possessive dog might guard anything from empty food bowls, toys, beds, specific locations in the home, and people to items that might not seem valuable to us, like tissues, wrappers, dirty diapers, or even laundry.

A dog’s possessive behaviors aren’t always obvious at first and might escalate as the perceived threat increases, meaning a dog’s frozen posture over a food bowl might shift into growling and air snapping as the person gets closer.

Resource guarding behaviors in dogs can include:

• Repositioning the body over the item or running away with it
• Freezing in place
• Hard staring
• Faster consumption of the item they are guarding
• Growling 
• Raised lip
• Lunging or air snapping
• Biting

What Causes Resource Guarding in Dogs?

While there’s a genetic component to resource guarding, it’s not the sole reason why dogs display the behavior. Any dog can develop guarding behaviors, from an adult dog with adopted at a shelter to a purebred puppy brought home from a breeder at 8 weeks old. 

People used to believe that dogs with a history of food insecurity might be more driven to resource guard, but even dogs that have always had a regular feeding schedule can develop resource guarding issues. A 4-year study by the ASPCA found that underweight dogs in a shelter environment were no more likely to be aggressive over food than well-fed dogs.

Some dogs become possessive when given a novel item, like a high-value bone. Special chews, like pig ears, can accidentally trigger guarding reactions in dogs that haven’t displayed the behavior before. Shifts in the household, like the addition of a new dog, might also set off guarding. Dogs dealing with an undiagnosed medical issue or pain might also resort to guarding behaviors when they feel threatened. 

How to Help Resource Guarding in Dogs

Before beginning a training program, it’s important to assess the severity of your dog’s guarding behavior. Pet parents who are worried about the intensity of their dog’s reactions should contact a positive reinforcement trainer or veterinary behaviorist for help setting up a behavioral modification program. This is especially beneficial if there are small children in the home or if the dog guards a variety of unpredictable items. 

One of the easiest ways to deal with resource guarding in dogs is to manage your home environment to prevent the behavior from occurring. If your dog’s bowl is in a high-traffic area, relocate it to a quiet spot so that he can eat in peace. If you’re concerned about family compliance, whether from a sibling dog or humans, feed your dog behind a gate to avoid mistakes and put his bowl away after he finishes. Keep potential high-value items like laundry or shoes out of reach to prevent accidental guarding situations. 

Instead of giving your dog chews that trigger a possessive reaction, provide bones that your dog won’t guard or only give extra special chews in spaces like his crate where you know he won’t be interrupted. 

Counterconditioning for Dogs

While managing your dog’s environment is a good place to start, it isn’t an option for every household. 

The goal of training for resource guarding in dogs is to change your dog’s emotional response through a process called counterconditioning. This process should make it so that your dog no longer considers a person (or animal) near a treasured item a threat.

Here’s how counterconditioning works:

Step 1: Make a list of everything your dog guards in order of preference. Then determine your dog’s “buffer zone,” or the point where he won’t react to your presence when he has a guardable item. This zone will be your starting point for training with your dog’s least guardable item.

Step 2: Next, load up on savory, high-value goodies. Opt for something potent, like cut up hot dogs, bits of cheese, or cubes of chicken.

Step 3: The longer a dog has possession of an item, the more “ownership” he has, so start the process right as he begins interacting with the item, whether he’s eating from his food bowl or gnawing a bone.

Step 4: Approach your dog and stop outside of the area that triggers a reaction, then toss a few pieces of the special treat so they land close to him, then walk away.

Step 5: Repeat a few times, then wrap up the training session.

Step 6: Continue this process whenever your dog has the guardable item (make sure not to trigger guarding behavior when not in a training scenario) and watch for him to have a positive reaction to your approach, like looking at you with a happy expression as you take a step towards him or relaxed tail wag. This is the point where your dog is starting to make a connection between you getting closer to something he values and the delivery of a delicious snack and is the most important part of the process!

Step 7: Once your dog is consistently showing a relaxed and happy response to your approach and is taking treats from a variety of different directions from outside of his buffer zone, gradually begin to move closer in consecutive training sessions, literally one step at a time. If your dog reverts to guarding behavior at any point, go back to working at the distance where he’s still showing a happy response to you. 

Your goal is to be able to walk up to your dog’s bowl and drop a few special goodies into it without provoking anything other than an excited tail wag. 

Sudden Resource Guarding in Dogs

Sudden resource guarding in dogs could be due to the introduction of a new high-value bone or toy that your dog values more than anything he’s ever had. For example, a dog that’s only been given rubber chewable bones might be more likely to guard a raw meaty marrow bone. 

Unexpected guarding could also indicate a medical condition, like undiagnosed pain, or it could be a symptom of cognitive decline in senior dogs. If your dog exhibits sudden resource guarding, consider scheduling a veterinary checkup to rule out any medical issues.

Training Basics to Help Avoid Resource Guarding 

It’s possible to safeguard against resource guarding using training techniques to help dogs understand that people being close to treasured resources are a good thing. 

For example, dropping special treats into your puppy’s bowl while he eats is a simple way to reinforce the notion that people approaching his bowl during mealtime equals extra deliciousness. You can also teach your dog to “drop it” or “trade” the high-value goodie for another treat or toy. Work on these lessons during play so that your dog learns that relinquishing something he values means he’ll get a special treat and get the toy back as well. Then start using the cues in real-life scenarios once your dog has generalized the behaviors and will do them happily when you ask.

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Calming Down a Dog: General Guidelines 

Dog anxiety can manifest in many ways, from extreme behavior to withdrawal. In some cases—like when a dog is suffering from separation anxiety—the behavior that results is hard to miss. But in other scenarios stress can cause a dog to shut down and withdraw in ways that might not be as obvious. Keep in mind that a quiet dog isn’t necessarily always a happy dog.

The first step in learning how to calm a dog down with anxiety is recognizing the body language that signifies your dog is stressed or anxious. Once a dog tips over into a “fight or flight” response bringing about positive behavioral change is more challenging. Picking up on the early stages of canine distress will make it easier for you to work with your dog and will prevent your dog’s discomfort from escalating. 

In addition to the hard-to-miss behaviors, a dog in need of calming support might:

• Tremble
• Hunch over
• Freeze in place
• Move in slowly
• Repeatedly lick lips
• Yawn frequently
• Hide
• Pant heavily or suddenly stop panting despite temperature or activity level

There’s an outdated dog calming tip that suggested pet parents should avoid comforting a distressed dog because it might reinforce the dog’s fear and accidentally encourage the behavior. It’s simply not true. 

Fearful reactions are involuntary emotional responses—your dog has no control over them so acknowledging them won’t make them worse. Being there for your dog during times of stress and offering comfort will help your dog understand that he can turn to you for support when he’s feeling anxious.

How to Calm Down a Dog With Anxiety

Separation anxiety is a stress response that a dog exhibits when the person (or people) that the dog is bonded to is away from home. The key to figuring out how to calm a dog down with separation anxiety requires permanently changing his perception of what being alone means. 

Dogs suffering from severe separation anxiety can benefit from instructor-led sessions that utilize a training technique called systematic desensitization, which is a very gradual process of slowly getting your dog used to being left alone using small, incremental steps.  

Dogs experiencing milder forms of separation distress might benefit from the following tips:

Desensitizing pre-departure cues. These include attempting to desensitize your dog to actions like grabbing the keys or putting on a jacket.

Mental and physical stimulation. Engaging your dog’s body and brain prior to leaving the house by playing training or scenting games that will make him more likely to rest.

A useful distraction. Leave treat-stuffable, interactive toys for your dog to enjoy when you leave.

How to Calm Down a Scared Dog

Because fear in dogs can have many causes, the first step in figuring out how to calm down a scared dog is determining the reason for the fear. Once you understand what is causing the fear, you can desensitize the trigger in gradual training sessions. 

It’s important to let fearful dogs set the pace for interactions. Pushing dogs beyond their comfort zone can lead to regressions. To calm down a scared dog:

Identify all triggers: Is your dog scared of every loud noise outside your window, or just trucks? Do all men in hats make him nervous, or just bearded men in hats? The better you are at determining what’s scaring your dog, the more effectively you can deal with the issue.

Introduce the trigger at a distance: If your pup is afraid of bearded men in hats, have a bearded, hat-wearing man stand at a distance at which your dog can see him, but not close enough that his presence will trigger a fear response in your dog.

Pair the trigger with treats: The goal of the exercise is to change your dog’s perception of the trigger that is causing fear. An easy way to do it is associate the scary thing with something good: treats! Feed your dog high-value goodies like cheese or hot dogs while the trigger is in the distance, and stop feeding them when the person steps out of sight.

Gradually decrease the distance: Once seeing the trigger in the distance evokes an excited response from your dog—like he gives a little tail wag—begin doing trials with the trigger a little closer. Gradually reduce the distance in ongoing sessions.

How to Calm Down a Dog During Fireworks or Storms

When considering how to calm a dog down during fireworks and storms it’s important to remember that the booming sounds can make a dog feel vulnerable. Thunderstorms and fireworks are common canine fears. 

Both are scary, but storms have the added challenges of being unpredictable (making it hard for you to be prepared), plus the changes in the barometric pressure that might lead to increased static electricity can exacerbate fear responses in dogs. Luckily, fireworks are a bit more predictable and pet parents can generally prepare a bit more for these events. 

The following tips can help soothe your dog fireworks and storms:

Get dogs used to the sounds. Get your dog more comfortable with the noise by playing a recording of fireworks or storm sounds at a low volume and pairing it with treats. 

Use a compression vest. Using a “swaddling” garment can help your dog feel more secure during storms or fireworks.

Keep your dog occupied. Giving your dog something to do, like a treat-filled puzzle toy, might help him focus on something other than the noise outside.

Muffle the sounds. A white noise machine might be enough to cover outdoor booming. 

Give your dog a chill spot. Some dogs seek out the bathroom during storms, so make it more comfortable for him by putting his bed there with some water and toys.

How to Calm Down a Dog in the Car

Some dogs love to hop in the car and go for an adventure but they show their excitement by being out-of-control passengers. Not only is a rowdy dog a distraction for the driver, it’s also dangerous for your pup. On the other hand, some dogs become anxious and stressed by car rides and may pant, shake, and whine excessively. They might also try to pace around or jump up to look out the window if unrestrained, which can lead to injury. 

You can help your dog learn to be a safer passenger with the following tips:

Work on manners getting in and out of the car. Instead of letting your dog torpedo into the car, ask for a polite sit before you allow him to jump out, and get a sit and “wait” prior to taking him out of the car.

Start with short trips. Instead of going for a long ride right out of the gate, try going for a quick drive around the block. This way, it ends before your dog works up to a fever pitch if they get overexcited or it helps anxious dogs get used to being in the car and returning home without the stress of a long trip. 

Use the right kind of restraint. Not only is a free range dog in the back seat dangerous, it can also encourage dashing from window to window. Invest in a crash-tested car restraint that can keep your dog safe and comfortable. 

Consider anti-car sickness remedies. Some overeager passengers might be acting out due to discomfort (drooling and heavy panting are hints), so try an over-the-counter remedy to help him feel more comfortable.

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What Is Crate Training?

Crate training is a way to tap into your pup’s natural inclination to keep her den clean, which in turn streamlines the potty training process. Most pups won’t potty where they sleep, and with a gradual introduction and positive associations, the crate can become your pup’s go-to nap spot. But using a crate can help with more than just potty training. It’s an easy way to keep your pup from chewing on anything and everything when you can’t watch her, plus it’s helpful when you hit the road and want your pup to have a consistent home base.

How Long Does It Take to Crate Train a Puppy?

Unfortunately, there’s no universal standard as to how quickly your pup will take to her crate. That said, trying to speed through the early introduction steps or forcing your puppy to stay in the crate for too long can derail if not destroy your pup’s association with the crate. When it comes to crate training a puppy, slow, steady, and positive will help ensure your pup is happy inside.

Benefits of Crate Training

Crate training a dog has benefits that go well beyond potty training. A crate can also:  

• Keep it safe: Running to the grocery store? Trying to sneak in a quick home workout? The crate can prevent your pup from raiding the garbage can or chewing on cords.
• Keep the peace: In a busy household, it’s helpful to give your pup a break from the hustle and bustle in her crate.
• Keep it familiar: Taking the crate with you when you hit the road will help your pup feel comfortable (and safe) no matter where you are.
• Keep it calm: It’s tough to keep busy dogs low key after surgical procedures, but dogs that are happy in their crates are more likely to chill out inside during convalescence.
• Keep it positive: Adding a new rescue dog to your home, or welcoming in a temporary foster? Crating can help both your resident dog and the newbie acclimate to the change in environment.

Types of Dog Crates

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A crate is a crate is a crate? Not quite. There are many dog crates to choose from but only some that are appropriate for crate training a puppy.

• Plastic airplane-style crates: This crate features plastic walls with wire “windows” and is often used for airline travel.
• Wire crates: Wire crates are exactly what they sound like; sturdy containment systems made of metal.
• Furniture-style crates: The focus is on fashion with this type of crate, which is usually made of wood to blend in with home décor.
• Mesh crates: These soft-sided nylon crates are easy to transport and set up quickly.

While there are many different types of crates available and design options within each style (like multiple access points and removable sizing panels), your choices narrow if you’re crate training a puppy. Some crate types, like wood furniture style or mesh, aren’t suitable for puppies because they can become targets for chewing. A sturdy crate like the Diggs Revol Dog Crate combines fashion and function, with puppy-safe materials, sturdy construction, and stylish design. As a bonus, Diggs Revol collapsible crates are available in a variety of sizes, including intermediate for dogs up to 70 pounds.

Finally, when picking a crate for your puppy, make sure it’s the proper size. Your puppy should be able to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably inside without too much extra space. Putting your pup in an oversized crate might allow her to potty in one corner and sleep in the other, so if you need a crate that will eventually accommodate a larger breed dog, invest in the largest size you’ll need and use a space-reducing insert that can be moved as your pup grows.

Crate Training 101: A Step-by-Step Guide

During the initial steps of crate training, it’s important to let your puppy set the pace. Pushing your dog to go inside it if she’s reluctant might slow the process, or worse, make your puppy afraid of the crate. The following steps are a template for introducing the crate, but keep in mind that pups are individuals and progress at their own pace. Some will race through the process while others might take a little longer before they feel comfortable.

Step 1

Place the crate in a central location, leave the door open, and let your puppy explore it.

Step 2

Praise your puppy for checking it out and toss small, savory treats just inside of it. Make a fuss if she chooses to walk in, but don’t force her to if she seems reluctant. You can praise any interest in the crate, even glances at it.

Step 3

As your puppy gets more confident about going into the crate, place treats toward the back of it so she has to go all the way in to get them. If your puppy walks in and stays inside, praise her and give her a few special treats while she’s in it.

Step 4

Feed your puppy her meals in her crate during the introductory process. If your puppy doesn’t want to go all the way in, place the bowls just outside of the crate, then gradually move them in with each meal. 

Step 5

When your puppy is happily going into the crate, try closing the door for a few seconds. Stay nearby for a few quick trials, then let her go in, close the door and move farther away while your pup is inside. Alternate the length of time your pup is inside as well as how far you move away from it, meaning: During some brief sessions, put your pup in the crate, close the door, and leave the room for a few seconds. In other sessions, put your pup in, stay close by, but wait a slightly longer time.  

Step 6

Repeat these brief closed-door training sessions over the course of a few days. 

Step 7

Once your puppy seems calm and happy being in the crate, give her a treat-stuffed busy toy and extend the amount of time she’s in the crate. You can alternate being in or out of the room.  

Step 8

When your dog is well-adjusted to being in the crate, try leaving the house for a brief period. When you return, let your puppy out, greet her calmly, and take her outside for a potty break.

Other Crate Training Tips

Here are a few more pieces of advice to set you and your pup up for crate training success:

• Play with your dog prior to longer crate sessions so she’ll be more likely to fall asleep while inside, but make sure to give her a potty trip before putting her in.
• Take off your pup’s collar or harness while she’s inside.
• Give your puppy a treat-stuffed busy toy when you put her in the crate, but avoid leaving “untested” toys when your pup is unsupervised, as they could be a choking risk.
• Don’t leave your puppy in the crate for longer than she’s physically capable of holding it, as it could force her to soil it. (Plus, over-crating is cruel.) You can compute your pup’s rough “hold time” by taking her age in months and converting it to hours. For example, a 12-week-old dog can hold it for roughly three hours.   
• Give your puppy a potty break before putting her in the crate and immediately after letting her out of it. 
• When considering how to crate train a puppy at night, remember that very young pups probably can’t hold it for the entire night. Keep the crate either in your bedroom or nearby so you can hear her if she wakes up and needs to go outside.

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It doesn’t matter if the change is due to a new job, going back to school, divorce, or the end of a global pandemic. If your daily circumstance is changing, it’s likely your dog will feel the impact of it as well.

Do Dogs Get Lonely?

We like to think that our dogs are nonstop happiness on four paws, but the reality is that dogs experience a variety of emotions. Dogs have the same emotional complexity as human toddlers, which means that they are capable of happiness, sadness, jealousy, anger, and yes, loneliness. 

Dogs evolved to be by our side, whether on the hunt, in the field, or by the fire, so it makes sense that they crave our companionship. Add to that the fact that we’re their sole providers of food, exercise, and access to the world, and it’s no wonder that our dogs have a drive to stay close to us. 

Being left alone, especially when it’s something a dog hasn’t experienced in a while, can absolutely lead to a dog experiencing loneliness.

9 Signs of Loneliness in Dogs

The following behaviors are potential lonely dog symptoms that might manifest individually, or in a combination of behaviors. Some responses might be an indication of an underlying health problem, like skipping meals, so consider a veterinary check-up to rule out illness if you notice these signs.

General Depression

Believe it or not, dogs can suffer from depression. It’s likely that lonely dogs also feel depressed. The behaviors that indicate dog loneliness are closely related to depressive behaviors, like withdrawal and lethargy.

Pacing

If your dog paces or shows other signs of pre-departure stress as you prepare to leave the house, this could be a sign of isolation distress or separation anxiety.

Destructiveness

Dogs that are home alone might find ways to keep themselves occupied like chewing up pillows, shoes, and remotes.

Clinginess

You might find that your dog wants to be by your side more than usual, even waking up from a sound sleep to follow if you leave the room.

Change in Play Style

Lonely dogs might be less interested in playing the games they used to love. 

Sleep Changes

Dogs that feel lonely might sleep more than usual, or might choose to sleep in unusual spots, like in a closet.

Not Eating

A lonely dog might not have an appetite and could even skip treats. Not eating can also be a sign of many medical conditions, so make sure to discuss this with your veterinarian if you notice it. 

Vocalization

Dogs use their voice to communicate, and a lonely dog might bark, whine, or cry when left alone.

Overall Behavior Shifts

It can be challenging to characterize the exact changes in a dog experiencing loneliness other than the fact that they just seem different from the way they normally act.

How to Prevent Loneliness in Dogs

Pet parents who know that they have a major schedule shift on the horizon, like going back to the office after working from home for an extended period, can help their dogs adjust in a variety of ways. 

Practice your new routine. Dog parents should help their canine companion prepare by practicing their upcoming schedule. Go through an abbreviated version of your typical departure routine (get dressed, pack a lunch, grab your bag) then leave the house for 30 minutes to an hour. Continue this preparation and departure process in the weeks prior to going back, gradually increasing the length of time you’re away from the house. Continue to throw a few short-duration departures as well to make it easy on your dog. 

Keep your dog active. Increasing your pup’s exercise regime can help put a dent in dog loneliness as well, but it helps to be creative. Sure, your dog will probably welcome more walks, but engaging your dog’s brain can help tire him out and make being left alone less stressful. 

Trick training and dog brain games like “hide the toy” will wear out your dog and can make alone time less fraught.

Try interactive toys. Invest in busy toys to give your dog when you have to leave him home alone. Hard rubber toys that can be stuffed with goodies are an excellent way to give your dog something to focus on while you’re gone. Give your dog an opportunity to practice with the toy while you’re home (this also ensures that your dog can’t destroy it and accidentally swallow pieces of the toy), then when it’s time to leave him alone pack the toy full of treats so that it’s tougher for your dog to get the goodies out and will keep him busier longer. 

Consider a dog daycare. Some lonely dogs might benefit from going to a well-run dog daycare a few times per week, although this option isn’t a fit for every dog. Make sure that your dog enjoys the excitement of group play, and that the daycare is reputable. 

Final Thoughts on Lonely Dog Syndrome

Do dogs need companions? While it might be tempting to add a second dog to your household to “cure” your dog’s loneliness, the success of this solution isn’t guaranteed. Adding a second dog requires an honest evaluation of your resident dog to determine if they’re a fit for a sibling (keep in mind that some dogs like being an “only child”) and if so, finding a buddy that’s the right fit for your household and lifestyle. 

Finally, keep in mind that dogs exhibiting behaviors associated with loneliness might be suffering from an undiagnosed health issue, so scheduling a wellness check can help to rule out any more serious problems.

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Enter puppy temperament testing. Touted as being a way of predicting future behavior, these multifaceted tests are said to measure everything from how outgoing a puppy will be to how they’ll react under pressure, and are often used as guides to help families pick their best match. 

But are these assessments accurate? And what are the most important aspects of a dog’s personality to consider when getting ready to adopt a new puppy?

What is Puppy Temperament Testing?

What exactly is “temperament”? Researchers have described it as everything from “the raw stuff of individuality” to “physical flexibility and intensity of reaction to different environmental stimuli.” In short, it’s the way a dog processes and reacts to the world around them.

A puppy temperament test is a series of evaluations that are supposed to provide a better understanding of a puppy’s behavior personality by introducing them to a variety of situations and stimuli in a controlled fashion, usually between the ages of 7-10 weeks. 

A puppy temperament test might include any of the following scenarios:

• Responsiveness to play.
• Reactions to gentle handling. 
• Reactions to slightly aversive handling, like holding paws or restraint.  
• Willingness to approach and interact with the tester.
• Sound sensitivity.
• Reactions to unfamiliar flooring, like sand. 
• Response to toys/willingness to fetch.
• Willingness to interact with strangers.
• Response to isolation.
• Response to elevation.

Types of Puppy Temperament Tests

Although there are many types of puppy temperament tests, one of the best-known is called the Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test. 

This series of ten tests is conducted when puppies are 49 days old, with each of the testing scenarios scored individually on a scale of 1-6. Areas included in the Volhard test include social attraction, willingness to follow, the puppy’s response to being elevated, and their reactions to a sharp sounds like banging a pot. The test includes a key for interpreting the scores which includes predictions about a puppy’s trainability and the families that will be the best match.

Many breeders perform their own versions of puppy temperament testing, some starting as early as a few days old. Pups that are destined for service dog work often undergo specialized testing as well. 

The AKC and the American Temperament Test Society both offer tests to determine dog temperament but they’re geared to dogs a year and older.

Benefits of Puppy Temperament Tests

New puppy parents should do everything they can to learn about their best friend to-be, and a puppy temperament test is a fun way to do just that. 

More importantly, a puppy personality test can function as a prescription to help puppy parents better understand where their dog needs support and improvement. For example, a puppy that’s uncomfortable with paw manipulation will likely benefit from additional dog-friendly body handling training. The pup that seems unwilling to approach a stranger might need a slowed down approach to socialization to make sure that they feel confident and in control when meeting new people. 

Additionally, temperament tests can help to identify potential matches that might be challenging. A puppy that reacts confidently to all aspects of a temperament test, approaching every new stimulus boldly, is high energy, and protests when restrained, might not be a good fit for a novice household or for senior pet parents. That said, temperament tests aren’t crystal balls, and are in no way guarantees of future behavior.

Drawbacks of Puppy Temperament Tests

The number one drawback to puppy temperament testing is that these tests are often considered predictive tools when they’re actually more like a snapshot in time. Simply put, it’s impossible to judge a dog’s lifetime behavior and responses in a single test. 

A dog’s personality is formed through a combination of their genetics as well as their life experiences, which includes everything from their early handling, to their training and level of daily exercise, as well as their environment and even their diet. These diverse influences all impact a dog’s behavior, which means that a test performed at 8 weeks of age might not apply even just a few months later once the pup is in their forever home.

Additionally, puppy behavior tests aren’t standardized and are subjective. A testing response like “the puppy came readily” might vary depending on who is administering the test. The skill of the tester as well as the location of the procedure can also have an impact on the results. For example, bringing pups to an unfamiliar location to be tested by someone they’ve never met will likely have an impact on the way they respond. 

These limiting factors are part of the reason why a single test can’t accurately predict a pup’s future responses or abilities.

Understanding the Results of Your Puppy Temperament Test

Pet parents should treat puppy temperament tests like online personality tests for humans; they’re fun to try, but you probably shouldn’t base your future on the results. 

While they can help to diagnose areas where pups need improvement—like a lack of confidence meeting new people or a heightened sensitivity to loud noises—the fact is that a quick test can’t accurately predict what a dog will be like as an adult. 

Puppy personality tests can provide an interesting perspective of a puppy’s tendencies on the day of testing, but your furry best friend’s true personality will be revealed as the years go by at your side.

The post Puppy Temperament Testing: All You Need to Know appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Working a dog’s mind is just as important as working the body, and brain games are a great way to do it. And the best part about playing brain games for dogs? Tapping into your dog’s unique cognitive abilities is important enrichment that is easy to do!

What is Brain Training for Dogs?

While standard obedience school can be considered brain training for dogs, true brain training engages your dog’s mind in a slightly different way. The dog training exercises in standard obedience training have a specific goal: your dog learns foundation behaviors like walking politely on a leash, holding a stay, or coming when called. 

With brain training the goal is to encourage your dog to think creatively, problem solve, and have fun. Steve Dale, certified animal behavior consultant, pet radio host, and co-editor of Decoding Your Dog (authored by members of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists), suggests that brain training has numerous benefits, including:

Alleviating boredom.

• Giving the opportunity to engage in breed-specific behaviors, like digging or searching for resources.
• Providing an outlet for anxiety.
• Helping to slow the cognitive changes associated with aging.

In addition to behavioral benefits like preventing inappropriate behaviors and keeping your senior sharp, brain training is a fun way to strengthen the bond with your dog. If you’re playing the right kinds of brain training games with your dog, you both should be having fun!

Fun Brain Games for Dogs to Try at Home

While there are many commercially available games for dogs, you can DIY cognition activities as well. Try the following simple dog brain training activities with your pup. 

Play Hide the Toy

Teaching your dog to look for a hidden toy taps into their natural scenting ability and it is a fantastic way to burn through excess energy inside the house or out. To begin teaching it, place your dog in a “stay” or have a helper gently hold him. Let him watch you place a toy in an obvious spot a few feet away, like on the edge of a chair, then tell your dog to “find it” in an excited voice and encourage him to grab the toy. 

Play together with the toy for a few minutes, then hide the toy in a new obvious spot and repeat the process. 

After a few repetitions your dog will start to figure out what “find it” means, at which point you put him in a different room and do a “blind find” by hiding the toy where he can’t see it. Because this game makes your dog rely only on his sense of smell, he’ll be happily worn out at the end of a few rounds!

Make an Indoor Dig Pit

Many dogs love to dig but don’t get enough opportunity to do so. Creating a safe spot to engage in this instinctual behavior is a simple way to address that urge and give your pup’s brain a workout at the same time. 

To make a dig pit simply use a box with low sides or a plastic storage container and fill it with dog-safe materials like rags cut into strips or cardboard paper towel rolls and bathroom tissue rolls cut into a variety of lengths. Make sure to select filler material that your dog won’t want to eat! 

Then scatter treats or part of your dog’s daily meal ration inside and mix up the filler, or if your dog is toy-driven, hide balls and toys inside. Many toy-driven dogs will enjoy play breaks with you when they uncover them.

Teach Your Dog to Spin

A great way to work your dog’s brain is introducing trick training, which is low-pressure fun-for-fun’s-sake training. “Spin” is one of the easiest (and cutest!) tricks to teach and it doesn’t take long for pups to master it. 

To begin the process, place a small treat in front of your dog’s nose so that he has four paws on the ground and doesn’t have to jump up to smell it. Trace a halo-like circle in the air above your dog’s nose so that he follows the treat lure slowly. Then, give your dog the goody once he’s completed the circle. Dogs that are reluctant to follow the lure might need to get the treat at the midpoint as well as at the completion.

Repeat the process, making the luring motion quicker with each repetition.

When your dog is happily moving in a circle keep the treat in your pocket and make the circle gesture more subtle with each repetition, rewarding after each attempt. Continue until you can twirl a single finger above your dog’s head as if stirring a drink. When your dog is responding to the subtle hand signal you can add a verbal cue like “spin” by saying the word right before you begin to make the gesture.

Teach Your Dog to Focus

A fun brain game that also has real world applications is teaching your dog a “watch” cue to capture eye contact. Not only is this skill fun to practice, it has many real world applications, like helping to refocus anxious dogs by getting them to look at you instead of potential stressors.

It helps to use a clicker to teach this behavior since the initial steps move quickly. To begin simply toss a treat on the ground near your dog and after she eats it and looks up at you hoping for another one, click her for her attention then then throw another treat. Repeat this process, always using the clicker to mark the moment your dog turns to look at you. 

Next, ask for your dog to do more. Wait to click until your dog looks up at your eyes, then toss the treat. Extend the length of time your dog holds your gaze by waiting a few seconds before you click and treat. Start naming the behavior by saying “watch” right as your dog swings her eyes up to meet yours. 

Practice the behavior in different parts of your house and outside to help generalize it, then try using it in a real-world scenario like during a walk. 

Other Ways to Support Your Dog’s Brain Health

Healthy brain function comes from a healthy lifestyle, and diet is a big part of the equation. Feeding your pup a premium dog food with real meats as the primary ingredients and no filler or additives contributes to overall wellness from the inside out. 

Additionally, puzzle toys for dogs that keep dogs busy make for great brain boosters when you don’t have time to play with them. Hiding treats in the toys and encouraging dogs to solve the puzzle and find the reward will help boost brainpower.

You can also help to support your dog’s brain health with veterinarian formulated supplements that use natural ingredients to promote cognitive wellness. 

Keeping your dog’s mind active, engaged and supported will help to ensure a happy and healthy dog well into his golden years!

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French Bulldogs pack a ton of personality into a small, sturdy package, which makes them the perfect dogs for people looking for a lively and charming companion. 

Are French Bulldogs Easy to Train?

While this clownish breed might have a reputation for being stubborn, it’s not hard to raise a well-trained French Bulldog. The reality is that they’re clever dogs that are willing to work when given the right kinds of motivation. 

Like all dogs, French Bulldogs thrive when trained with dog-friendly positive reinforcement methods, using food and fun to achieve training goals. French Bulldogs are people-oriented dogs that are happy to learn new lessons and can master the full suite of polite puppy behaviors.

French Bulldog Training: When to Start

The best time to begin French Bulldog puppy training is now! Like all dogs, it’s best to begin working on foundation behaviors during puppyhood, but even untrained adult Frenchies can master good manners. 

French Bulldog puppies as young as eight weeks old can start learning basic obedience cues like sit, down, coming when called, and greeting without jumping up. But it’s never too late to begin French Bulldog training. 

While adult Frenchies might be more set in their ways, positive training methods and a pocket full of treats can sway even the most stubborn of students.

French Bulldog Training Tips and Advice

French Bulldogs can be stubborn and high energy, so make sure to follow these tips when working on training exercises with your Frenchie friend.

Keep it Quick

When considering how to train a French Bulldog remember that short, upbeat training sessions are the key to success. Brief training sessions help to keep your French Bulldog’s focus on you, and having fun together while you train will make the lessons feel like a game instead of school.

Treat Wisely

Short, stocky French Bulldogs put on weight easily, so training treats should be small. Using a “trail mix” of your dog’s daily food ration combined with tiny, savory treats is a safe way to provide rewards for a job well done that won’t impact your Frenchie’s waistline.  

Safety First

Frenchies have short snouts, which means they’re prone to breathing difficulties. Avoid overexertion during training, particularly in warm weather. Always provide fresh water, especially when working outside, and take frequent breaks if your French Bulldog starts to pant heavily during training.

How to Potty Train a French Bulldog

Although French Bulldogs have a reputation for being challenging to potty train, Frenchie parents don’t have to follow special rules to end up with a housetrained companion. Like all dogs, potty training success requires supervision, patience, and rewards for good potty choices. Here’s how to help your French Bulldog succeed.

Stick to a Routine 

No matter your Frenchie’s age, keeping a predictable schedule will help make potty training straightforward. Scheduling meals, walk times, play and rest, and the resultant potty trips provides your dog with a predictable daily routine. Keeping up routines will help you predict when your dog needs to head outside.

Remember that your Frenchie will have to potty after meals, after vigorous play sessions (and younger pups might need to take a break during play), after naps and after coming out of the crate. There’s no such thing as too many potty trips during the early stages of training! 

Supervise at All Times

Supervision is key when it comes to figuring out how to potty train a French Bulldog. Some pups try to sneak off to a different room to relieve themselves so keeping an eye on your Frenchie enables you to pick up on his “gotta go” body language so you’ll know when it’s time to head outside. Setting up baby gates to reduce your dog’s potential “strike zone” and using a crate when you’re not around to supervise will also help to speed the potty training process.

Go Outside With Your French Bulldog

Always accompany your Frenchie outside when it’s potty time. Not only can you confirm that he actually went (remember, dogs can get easily distracted and forget to go!), you can also reward him immediately after he finishes to help reinforce that outside potty is a very good thing.

How to Crate Train a French Bulldog

Most dogs appreciate having a safe space where they can relax and a well-sized crate taps into this natural denning instinct. Your French Bulldog’s crate should be sized so that your dog can comfortably stand up, turn around, and lie down. 

Introduce your French Bulldog to the crate slowly, giving him ample opportunities to hang out inside before you close the door and leave for the first time. Feeding meals in the crate and giving treat-stuffed busy toys inside can help speed the acclimation process.

The crate should be kept in a part of the house that’s away from the hustle and bustle, but not so far away that your Frenchie feels isolated when he goes inside. Remember, while the crate is a wonderful tool during the house training process, over-crating isn’t fair to your dog. Leaving a dog crated during an eight-hour workday is unkind and can lead to health issues like urinary tract infections.

When to Consider Professional Training for Your French Bulldog

If you start to feel frustrated with your French Bulldog or get the sense that the stubborn gene is especially strong in your pup, it’s a good idea to seek outside training help. 

A certified dog trainer can help you create a training plan that will set you and your Frenchie up for success, and you’ll end up with a well-mannered buddy for life.

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But figuring out how to introduce dogs without problems requires a thorough plan and household management techniques put in place before your new dog arrives. Here’s how to make introductory meetings go smoothly.

How To Introduce Dogs to Each Other

If you are looking to introduce your resident pup to a new canine companion, it’s important to follow some key guidelines. When learning how to introduce dogs to each other, try these steps.

Find a Co-Handler

The first step in learning how to introduce two dogs is finding a competent co-handler who understands canine body language. Since dog interactions are often subtle and can escalate quickly, it’s important that both parties understand the nuances of canine body language and are comfortable taking the steps necessary to keep all parties safe, like moving away before the dogs become aroused or agitated. 

Let Dogs Meet on Neutral Ground

The next important consideration when working on introducing dogs to each other is securing a neutral, outdoor fenced space like a friend’s yard or a fenced park. This puts both dogs on a level playing field instead of giving your resident dog the literal home-team advantage in her own yard. 

Make Sure Both Dogs Are Leashed

During the early stages of an introduction, both dogs should be on a fixed-length, 6-foot leash. Do not attempt an introduction on a flexible leash, as an accidental tangle or fur-burn can escalate tensions. 

Keep the Distance—At First

Begin with both dogs far enough apart in the fenced space. They should be aware of one another but still able to focus on and investigate the area around them. This distance varies, but a safe starting point is at least 20 feet apart. 

Walk the dogs parallel to each other, allowing them to sniff and eliminate as you stroll, then switch positions with the other handler so you’re each walking a dog where the other dog walked prior. This type of scenting allows the dogs to pick up more information about each other.

Pay Close Attention to Signals

Look for the dogs to be interested in one another and displaying loose, waggy body language. Tense posture, a high, stiff tail, freezing in place, or hard stares are possible warning signs that the interaction needs to slow down. More demonstrative behaviors, like lunging and hard barking, suggest that the introduction should be called off before the dogs get closer. It is OK to stop the session and try again in 20 minutes. Going extra slow is always OK. Pushing uncomfortable dogs together can ruin your chances of ever having a successful meeting.

Close the Gap Between Dogs

If both dogs are displaying social behaviors and seem happily interested in interacting, gradually decrease the space between them as you and your partner parallel walk. Be careful to avoid face-to-face encounters as you get closer, since a head-on approach can escalate tensions, particularly with dogs on leash. 

Drop the Leashes 

When both dogs are displaying appropriate and interested behavior and both handlers are comfortable with what they’re seeing, you can drop the leashes. Make sure you are in a safe place to do so! 

At this point you should see mutual circling and sniffing and other ritualistic greeting behaviors. Calmly praise the dogs as they get to know one another. It’s likely that a gradual positive introduction will lead to the universal invitation to play; elbows on the ground and rear in the air. And then the fun begins! 

Keep the First Play Session Short

Even though dog play can be energetic and loud, make sure that both dogs are respecting the other’s signals. That means you should see give and take during play as well as short breaks in the action.

Although it’s tempting to let the new friends play until they’re exhausted, it’s better to allow for a brief session then end with a short walk together. Meeting other dogs can be fun and stressful, so rather than letting the interaction tip over into potentially inappropriate behavior, it’s best to end on a positive note. 

Introducing a Puppy to Your Resident Dog

Because most puppies are eager to greet the whole world with a wag, an introduction between a resident dog and a new puppy is usually less challenging than introducing two adult dogs. 

That said, it’s not always love at first sight between your dog and an overexcited pup, especially if the puppy is larger than your resident dog, or your resident dog is older and might be worried about potential pain caused by youthful silliness.

Puppies haven’t learned how to “dog” yet which means they usually don’t understand proper greeting protocols, but a well-socialized adult dog will likely roll with most of the mischief served up by a puppy. That said, it’s within an adult dog’s rights to instruct an impolite puppy with a snarl, bark, or in some cases even a quick pinning if the puppy comes on too strong. As long as the adult dog backs off quickly after the correction and the puppy seems unphased by it, the interaction can continue. If the puppy continues pushing the resident dog despite appropriate corrections, take a break and redirect the puppy with play.

It can take time before an older dog is comfortable with a new, younger sibling, but giving your resident dog solo time away from the puppy, either with you or alone with a tasty distraction, will help to ease the transition.

Red Flags During an Introduction

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, things go poorly during an introduction between two dogs. Unfortunately, not all of the potential red flags are always easy to spot, but some of the more obvious signs include:

• Hard barking
• Direct stare without looking away
• Complete disinterest in each other or avoidance
• Intense play without breaks, even when one dog tries to stop
• Yawning, lip licking, frequent shaking off

If either your resident dog or the potential new dog exhibit concerning behaviors during the introduction stages, consider calling it off and try again another day to see if things go differently. 

If you’re unsure about the feedback your dog is offering, reach out to a qualified dog trainer or behaviorist for support.

Introducing a New Dog Into Your Home: The Basics

It’s important to do a safety sweep before your new dog arrives home, even if the newbie is an adult. Keep in mind that even house-trained adult dogs can have accidents or destructive chewing regressions in a new environment, so the key is to set your new dog up for success. 

First, pick up anything that might be a temptation for chewing, like shoes, laundry, or an easily accessible garage pan or litter box. Consider closing off rooms that are challenging to dog proof and invest in doorway gates to cordon off specific areas. Prepare to manage your dog’s environment by preventing him from sneaking off into other rooms, either to chew or potty.

Your resident dog’s toys and chews might cause scuffles over ownership as your new pup settles in, so pick up all goodies during the acclimation period. Make sure that each dog has their own food and water bowls that aren’t directly next to each other.

Creating a Safe Space

Even though moving into a new home is a joyful experience, particularly for dogs coming out of the shelter system, new-to-you dogs need space and time to acclimate to their environment. 

It helps to provide a go-to spot where your dog can curl up and relax that’s away from the hubbub but close enough that she doesn’t feel left out. A crate is a good option for dogs already comfortable using one, or a cozy bolster-style bed that’s tucked away in a corner. 

Family members, both canine and human, should respect when the new dog needs a break, but be aware that in certain scenarios it’s helpful to require brief time-outs, since some dogs have a tough time settling down.  

Keep the household low key and guests to a minimum during the early few weeks of a new dog’s acclimation period. The full adjustment period can last as long as a few months, so be aware that highs and lows can be expected as your new dog settles in.

Preserving Peace In The Home

Since moving from a one-dog household to one with two dogs can mean upheaval for the resident dog, try to stick to a familiar schedule for feeding, walks, and play. If possible, spend time alone with each dog during the first few weeks. 

Even if the new siblings are getting along beautifully it’s important to separate them when you leave the house, as well as when you’re in the house and otherwise engaged, like in the shower.

It’s always best to prevent simmering tensions from escalating rather than trying to redirect them after they’ve begun, so watch out for any subtle signs of discomfort between your dogs. These signals may include body blocks in doorways or around you (meaning, one dog positions itself so that something or someone is inaccessible to the other), low growling, and freezing or staring, particularly around resources like resting spots or food bowls. 

Finally, don’t forget to give your dogs occasional timeouts apart from one another. Even if they’re having a wonderful time playing together, sometimes dogs aren’t capable of taking a break from the action without assistance. Giving them each something to do in separate areas, like a bone or treat-stuffed busy toy, will prevent accidental escalations and help them settle down. 

In time and with your support, the new siblings will find their groove together and you’ll be lucky enough to watch their friendship blossom!

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Training a rescue dog will help to fast track your new relationship while your dog picks up important life skills. Not only does training give your dog an understanding of good manners and how to be a polite family member, it’s an easy way to cement your growing bond. And best of all? It’s fun! 

Training a Rescue Dog: Why It’s Different Than Puppy Training

Training a puppy is a series of fun firsts. Everything about the process is new, and a pup is likely to be an eager (and excitable!) student with a short attention span. But the fact is, dogs of all ages enjoy learning throughout their lives (you can teach an old dog new tricks), and that includes your new-to-you adult rescue dog. 

One of the perks of training an adult dog is the grown-up ability to focus for longer periods of time. Whereas pups do best with brief training sessions, an adult dog can handle full training sessions.

The best way to set your new rescue dog up for training success is to only use science-based positive reinforcement training. This type of training focuses on rewarding dogs for what they’re doing right rather than correcting them for mistakes. This leads to a happy, engaged student. 

Any training that requires choke, prong, or e-collars is outdated and can actually damage your relationship, so stick with dog-friendly training.

How to Train a Rescue Dog: General Advice and Steps

Before you start your training routine with your new rescue dog, it’s helpful to keep the following things in mind:

Don’t Make Assumptions

When working with an adult rescue dog your best bet is to get rid of all assumptions you might have about your new friend. Your dog might be an adult that “should” know how to do certain things like going to the bathroom outside or walking politely on a leash, but that doesn’t mean that anyone ever taught him how. Until your rescue dog proves otherwise, it’s best to pretend that he’s a new pup that’s still learning how to be a part of your family and home.

Be Prepared for Personality Changes

It might be a surprise to realize that the dog you bring home won’t be the exact same dog you end up with, which means that your shy, sleepy rescue might turn into the life of the party after a few weeks of settling in. Adult rescues can be “shut down” either from challenges in their past, a lack of socialization, or a combination of the two. 

Most rescue dogs go through a honeymoon/adjustment period when they move into a new home, so it’s likely that you won’t get to know your dog’s true personality until after he’s feeling settled and confident. This could be as brief as a few days to as long as a few months.

Learn to Read Your Dog’s Body Language

Finally, as you get ready to begin training it’s helpful to brush up on canine body language so you can understand exactly what your dog is saying to you. Misunderstandings about what a dog is communicating can delay the bonding process and make training more difficult. So, learn about the subtle and not-so-subtle things your dog is trying to say—from yawns to wags and everything in between!

House Training a Rescue Dog

Even though your new dog is an adult who “should” know where to potty, it’s important to note that a lack of housetraining is exactly what causes many dogs to end up in shelters. Keep in mind this training oversight is in no way your dog’s fault—more than likely they never had the opportunity to learn where to go.

Sadly, house-trained adult dogs that are forced to live in a shelter environment for extended periods often lose their good bathroom habits. And even rescue dogs that know where to go can have slip-ups in new households with different routines, or when their usual signals to go out might not be noticed. That’s why it’s best to pretend that your new-to-you dog needs to brush up on house training.

When house training a rescue dog use the same protocols you’d use with a puppy:

• Supervise your new dog at all times and crate or confine him if you can’t watch him.
• Use gates to keep your dog from sneaking away to eliminate in other rooms.
• Set up a consistent feeding schedule for predictable daily bathroom breaks.
• Give your dog a tasty treat immediately after he potties outside (don’t wait to come inside).
• Don’t punish accidents! A mistake in the house is usually due to a pet parent oversight.

Crate Training a Rescue Dog

Getting your new dog acclimated to a crate is a great way to help with potty training and will keep your furry new friend safe when you can’t watch him. Most dogs can learn to feel comfortable in a crate, but adult rescue dogs without crate experience might need more time to acclimate to it before being confined.

Here are some steps to make crate training your rescue dog a success:

Choose the Right Crate

Picking the right size crate will help keep your dog comfortable. The crate should be sized so that he can stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably—but not much bigger than that.

Pick the Right Crate Location

Keep the crate in a part of your house that’s quiet but isn’t far away from the action. Don’t keep crates in out-of-the-way areas, like the basement or garage.

Make the Crate a Happy Place

Encourage your dog to get comfortable with the crate by feeding his meals inside it with the door open and give him goodies like treat-stuffed activity toys inside. After an acclimation period (it could take a few days or more) try closing the door for short periods while he’s inside enjoying a toy or bone and stay in the room with him. 

Slowly Work Up to Leaving Your Dog Alone 

Work up to leaving the room for short periods while your dog is crated, and if he seems content inside, attempt a short departure for twenty minutes. Gradually build up the duration that you’re away, but keep in mind that crating for a full workday isn’t healthy or fair to your dog.

Alternatives if Dogs Are Uncomfortable in Crates

Rescue dogs that are resistant to crate training might do better in a small safe space, like a bathroom or powder room. Pet proof the area by getting rid of potential chew targets like the trash, countertop items, and bathmats and use a gate across the open doorway instead of shutting the door. Leaving your dog with a treat-stuffed busy toy will keep him happily occupied while you’re away. 

Leash Training a Rescue Dog

Many rescue dogs don’t understand how to walk politely on leash—either because they never had the opportunity to learn, or because they’re adjusting to a stressful new walking environment, like moving from a rural area to a city. 

As with all dog training, the best way to train a rescue dog to walk on leash is with positive reinforcement training, the right type of equipment, and plenty of patience. Follow these tips and tricks to help your rescue dog learn how to walk on a leash:

Choose the Right Gear

A six-foot fixed length leash is the perfect length to give your dog enough freedom to eliminate and explore, but not enough room to be dangerous to him or others. Extendable leashes aren’t a good fit when working on leash manners as they can accidentally encourage pulling.

Reward the Right Behavior

The goal of leash training is helping your new dog understand that pulling makes the walk stop and keeping slack in the leash results in forward movement and treats! As you walk with your dog, feed him lots of small tasty treats in position near to your leg as a reward for keeping the leash loose. Your dog doesn’t have to be in a perfect heel position during the early stages, the only requirement is to keep the leash loose. 

Stop Walking If Your Dog Begins Pulling

If something catches your dog’s attention and he starts to pull, stop walking. Most dogs aren’t used to this change of pace since pulling usually allows him to get where he wants to go! When your dog looks back at you praise him for his attention then reward him with a treat and continue walking, still giving him treats for a slack leash.

Consider a No-Pull Harness

In scenarios where the rescue dog is more powerful than the walker, or if the pulling is nonstop, it’s a good idea to use a no-pull harness. These harnesses are designed to reduce pulling with gentle pressure or by changing the fulcrum point of the leash thereby making it difficult for a dog to pull successfully. No-pull harnesses are a humane, dog-safe way to quickly manage leash pulling.

How to Train a Fearful Rescue Dog

While all rescue dogs require pet parent patience as they adjust, fearful rescue dogs need an extra slow and gentle approach.

Fearful dogs need more than just basic manners training. They’ll likely require help overcoming anxieties stemming from everyday life, like sounds or noises around the house or neighborhood, meeting people, or going to new places. A fearful dog should set the pace for all training, which will allow him to learn without pushing him outside his comfort zone.

Fearful dogs do well with classical conditioning, in which they learn to make a positive association to whatever it is that worries them. The goal is to pair treats with the frightening trigger to gradually change the dog’s perception of it. Working slowly to address the fear, using a variety of high value treats, and keeping enough distance from the trigger can all help to boost a nervous dog’s confidence.

Finally, remember to act as your nervous dog’s advocate. If someone wants to interact and your dog looks uncomfortable, ask for a pass. If your dog’s body language suggests that he’s worried, try to pinpoint the source of his stress. 

The best thing you can do when training a fearful rescue dog is acknowledging and responding to him so that you build his confidence and tackle the world as a team.

The post Training a Rescue Dog: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on Great Pet Care.

That said, it’s important to note that some easy-to-train dogs aren’t necessarily easy to live with. The more a dog wants to work, the harder the pet parent has to work to keep the dog happily employed and out of mischief!

Canine intelligence can be measured in more than just good training manners, but when it comes to being the best behaved dogs, the pups on the following list are usually at the top of the class.

Dog Training: Beneficial Characteristics to Look For

The specifics of canine trainability vary, meaning a dog’s ability to learn new skills encompasses a full spectrum of considerations including genetics, early socialization, the dog’s age, and even the handler’s abilities. 

However, the easiest dogs to train usually share the following characteristics:

Intelligence

The ability to quickly pick up new training behaviors is an obvious indicator of canine intelligence, but easy-to-train breeds also have less quantifiable “soft skills” like emotional intelligence and memory.

Focus and Motivation

Dogs that are willing to work for food, play, or toys are typically easier to train. This drive helps to keep dogs interested in training tasks.

Even Temperament

Easily trained dogs are self-assured, have steady nerves, and aren’t shy.

Devotion

While nearly every pet parent considers their dog devoted, the easiest dog breeds to train seem to have next level loyalty to their handlers. 

Keep in mind that the dog breeds on the following list aren’t necessarily the best fit for every household. Highly intelligent dogs have hardworking minds that need the right kind of stimulation to keep them happy and healthy. 

Selecting a dog purely for their perceived trainability doesn’t take other important lifestyle factors into account, like their exercise or grooming requirements. Selecting the right fit means taking the entire scope of a dog’s needs into account.

Finally, don’t despair if your dog doesn’t appear on this list of easy-to-train breeds, as it’s not an exhaustive compilation of the best behaved dogs. There are many other highly intelligent and trainable breeds to choose from, including mixed breed dogs with unknown lineage. 

Plus, with care, patience, and gentle methods any dog is trainable, even breeds that are typically considered stubborn or aloof.  

Easiest Dog Breeds to Train

Based on the qualities of intelligence, motivation and focus, temperament, and overall devotion, the following dog breeds generally pick up on training more quickly than their counterparts. 

Border Collie

This breed was born to work, and if you don’t provide a steady occupation for a Border Collie he’ll happily find his own job—which might be shredding your couch! 

Known for their sheep-herding abilities and other field work, Border Collies are quick, observant students with an innate watchfulness that almost give them a “sixth sense” connection with their handlers. Their intuitive responsiveness makes them hands down one of the most obedient dogs.

German Shepherd

Nearly unmatched in their intuition and intelligence, this unflappable breed is a favorite when it comes to high-pressure jobs like search and rescue and detection work. The observant German Shepherd might come across as stoic and aloof around strangers, but it’s merely a matter of being selective about their familiars. They bond quickly to their families and have great loyalty to their household. 

Much like Border Collies, GSDs have the unique ability to problem solve and make decisions for themselves rather than relying solely on their handler’s input. Their high intelligence makes them easy to train, but keep in mind that German Shepherds require a dedicated pet parent who understands their needs.

Poodle

Good looks are only part of the Poodle package. This eye-catching breed might be known for their fancy hairstyles, but they’ve got a depth of intelligence that makes them more than just a pretty face. 

This active breed has the soul of an athlete, and like all clever dogs, poodles require the right kind of brain-powered exercise to keep them happy. Poodles excel at canine sports like dock diving and agility with a grace that combines their solid conformation with their natural athletic abilities. 

Poodles are attentive to their handlers and are willing to work hard to achieve training goals as a team.  

Australian Cattle Dog

The Australian Cattle Dog combines no-nonsense good looks with a brain that never stops. A working dog through and through, this herding breed needs to be on the job to be truly happy. 

Their intelligence and intense focus are assets during the training process, but these same qualities can make the breed challenging for handlers who don’t understand their drive (and potential stubbornness). Their legendary endurance means that they’re best suited in households that can provide ample opportunities to exercise their busy brains and powerful bodies.

Labrador Retriever

There’s a reason why Labrador Retrievers have been the most popular dog breed for 22 years in a row! Labs rank as America’s favorite dog breed because they’re reliable, easy-to-train family dogs that combine good looks with dependably sweet dispositions. 

Labs are energetic dogs that master training quickly and are willing to work hard with their handlers. This dependable breed is well-suited for work as assistance dogs and guide dogs. Gentle, hardworking, adaptable and even-tempered, Labs check all of the boxes as the ultimate family dog.

Papillion

Little dogs get more attention for being cute rather than being intelligent, but the clever Papillion wants to set the record straight. This independent breed has standout “butterfly ears” but it’s the brain below them that secures their spot on the “easy to train” list. 

Hardier than they appear, the cheerful Papillon excels at learning new skills. More eager to be on-the-go than snuggled up, Papillons are a fit in households that recognize the breed’s quick, eager minds and are prepared to give these agility standouts the mental and physical exercise they crave.

Golden Retriever

Another easy-to-train standout breed, the Golden Retriever combines a stable temperament with a natural working ability. These sweet-natured dogs are known for having happy, outgoing personalities and a puppy-like friendliness that lasts well into adulthood. 

Powerful and athletic, Goldens are more than willing to work as hard as they play. Their devotion, intelligence and stable temperament have earned them a well-deserved place as one of the AKC’s most popular breeds. 

The post 7 Easiest Dog Breeds to Train appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Couple this panic with the potential damage caused by dogs feeling anxious and you have a unique (and possibly demanding) training scenario.

There are degrees to separation anxiety severity, and pet parents with dogs that have milder cases can help them learn to cope with being alone through gentle training and behavioral modification.

Separation Anxiety in Dogs: Challenging Behaviors

For many dogs suffering from separation anxiety it’s not just being alone that evokes a nervous response, it’s also the rituals that pet parents go through prior to leaving that amp up their discomfort. 

Dogs with separation anxiety learn the “pre-departure cues” that signal their person is heading out for the day, like packing a work bag or purse, putting on a specific type of shoes or grabbing the car keys. These daily rituals signal departure and trigger the beginning of the stress sequence, like panting and pacing.

Once the pet parent has left for the day, dogs typically exhibit any or all of the following behaviors associated with separation anxiety: 

Refusal to eat: Pet parents might think that a tasty peanut butter bone will occupy their dog while home alone, but dogs suffering from intense separation anxiety usually refuse to eat.

Pacing: Dogs that are panicked when their person leaves will be unable to settle down and might walk back and forth, circle or seem restless and unable to settle down.

Accidents: Dogs that are normally house trained will eliminate inside, including stress-induced diarrhea. 

Drooling: Pet parents might discover puddles of drool throughout the house as well as a dog with a wet chin and chest.

Vocalization: Many dogs vocalize briefly when their person leaves but dogs with separation anxiety will often bark, howl, or cry the entire time they’re home alone.

Destruction: Dogs experiencing separation anxiety might chew up household items like remotes and pillows or resort to more large-scale destruction like tearing through drywall.

Escape: Crated dogs with separation issues can self-injure while attempting to get out, and dogs free in the house might focus their efforts around doors and windows to escape confinement.  

It’s important to note that some behaviors blamed on separation anxiety might be caused by other training challenges or underlying health problems. For example, puddles and piles in the house might be due to incomplete house training or a gastrointestinal problem and excessive drool can be caused by a broken tooth up an upset stomach. Speak with your veterinarian to rule out any medical problems before starting separation anxiety training practices.

Dog Separation Anxiety Training: The Basics

Behavioral modification for separation anxiety addresses it in two ways—it helps the dog learn to be less dependent on the pet parent and encourages him to learn to relax when left alone. 

This process can be especially challenging because once training has begun, pet parents should avoid prolonged absences to prevent regressions. That means households should try to take shifts so that the dog isn’t left alone during the training process or pet parents should consider hiring a dog sitter or dog daycare to help while the dog adapts. 

Making progress in separation anxiety training requires dedication, patience, creativity and most importantly, time. In severe cases the initial steps of successful separation anxiety training can be measured in durations as short as seconds apart from the pet parent, which means behavioral rehab will come slowly.

Training Tips for Dogs With Separation Anxiety

Training dogs with separation anxiety requires patience and traditional dog training techniques should be altered to allow your dog time to adjust and get comfortable on his own. Use the following tools and tips when training dogs who have issues with separation. 

Keep arrivals and departures calm. When leaving your dog remember to keep your goodbyes low key and do the same when you return. While this step alone won’t address longstanding separation anxiety, it can help to prevent an escalation of stress at departure time and can make your return seem like less of a notable event. 

Carve out plenty of playtime. While a walk around the block is a fine place to start chipping away at pre-departure tension, it’s not enough to put a dent in the energy levels of most dogs. Consistent, pant-inducing exercise that includes both body and mind components can help to decrease some of the stress of being alone. Brain games in particular are excellent for tiring out dogs, so make sure to include activities like “find it” “hide and seek” or other scenting games prior to leaving for the day.

Use treat-dispensing toys. Utilizing a toy with departure time can help dogs cope with milder cases of separation distress. However, it’ll take more than just a single biscuit stuffed inside to keep your dog focused. Treat dispensing toys should be packed so that it takes your dog time and effort to de-stuff them. 

Using a variety of stuffers, like different sized treats interspersed with softer goodies like cheese or peanut butter, and then freezing the toy can help slow down expert unpackers. Leaving a variety of stuffed activity toys spread throughout the house can add a “treasure hunt” element to being alone.

Behavior Modification for Dogs With Separation Anxiety

Unfortunately, the most effective way to do dog separation anxiety training is also the most challenging. This requires using behavioral modification to break down the departure process into small, tolerable intervals in order to shift your dog’s understanding of what it means to be alone.

Review and Adjust Pre-Departure Cues

Pet parents should first understand all of the pre-departure cues that are triggering their dog (which requires an understanding of canine body language) and defuse them one at a time. 

If your dog reacts when you pack your lunch, try going through the process on a day you don’t have to go to work and then eating it at the kitchen table. The same goes for grabbing your keys and bag—try to imitate the process of collecting them then put them back down and do something else.

Systematic Desensitization: A Gradual Process

Of course, the primary issue is helping your dog feel comfortable when you actually leave, which requires using a method called systematic desensitization. 

The training process starts with pet parents disappearing from view (usually ducking out of a room and not actually leaving the house) for a few seconds and returning before the dog exhibits stress signals. Since the dog needs to remain calm his responses dictate the speed of the training program, which might initially require departures of just a few seconds each. 

The goal is to gradually increase the length of time you are out of sight while your dog remains stable—until he’s calm and confident enough to try a real-life brief departure. 

Training a Dog With Separation Anxiety: When to Get Help

Longstanding separation anxiety can be difficult to treat without assistance from a dog trainer or behaviorist. Pet parents should consider seeking qualified help if:

• The dog is injuring himself when left alone
• The dog’s quality of life is at risk
• The pet parent is overwhelmed by the dog’s behavior or doesn’t feel equipped to handle the training process
• Outside complaints about the dog’s behavior are escalating 

A dog trainer who specializes in separation anxiety cases can provide support and guidance, and in severe cases, a certified veterinary behaviorist can step in for additional direction and necessary medication or recommendations for calming products to work in conjunction with relaxation protocols.

The post Dog Separation Anxiety Training: Techniques and Tips to Try appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While the initial steps of choosing and using a harness might feel daunting, the payoffs are worth it. Dog harnesses can help make walks a pleasant, pain-free experience for dogs of all ages and sizes.

Let’s walk through tips for picking out the right harness for your dog, how to put a harness on a dog, and advice for making sure you have the perfect fit.

Dog Harness Benefits

A collar is a fine choice for dogs that walk politely on leash without pulling. However, dogs that are tough to control on walks or at risk for injury due to their shape or size can benefit from wearing a comfortable harness instead.

A harness can prevent health concerns for dogs with potential breathing issues, like brachycephalic breeds such as French Bulldogs or Pugs, since any leash tension is distributed instead of concentrated around the dog’s neck.

Plus, a harness designed specifically to reduce pulling can make walks more manageable for people with strong dogs.

Types of Dog Harnesses

Because there are so many options, trying to pick the right type of harness for your dog can feel overwhelming, but choosing the best harness for your dog comes down to a few factors. Things you should consider when choosing a type of harness include:

The desired outcome. Do you want to decrease pulling? Or are simply concerned with your dog’s comfort? A harness doesn’t automatically reduce pulling, which means you may need a no-pull dog harness.

Your dog’s body type. If you have a barrel-chested breed, some harness options might not fit.

Your dog’s size and handling tolerance. Some dogs don’t appreciate the type of touching required to put on a step-in harness or a snug-fitting, over-the-head harness.

Once you’ve determined your dog walking needs you can begin to refine your dog harness choices:

No-Pull Dog Harness

These types of dog-friendly harnesses are specifically engineered to reduce leash pulling. Most reduce pulling through a combination of gentle pressure points around the legs and the positioning of the rings where the leash attaches.

It’s important to note that some dogs are still able to pull while wearing a no-pull harness, and some learn to outsmart these harnesses as they become familiar with the sensation.

Fashion Dog Harness

If you’ve got a standard size dog that’s a polite leash walker, you can focus on fashion when it comes to selecting a harness. These colorful options can be either over the head or step-in harness styles, and range from traditional ribbon on nylon straps to breathable mesh material. The leash can attach either at the chest or between the shoulder blades. Fashion harnesses are cute, but they don’t prevent pulling.

Special Fit Dog Harness

Dogs with unique shapes, like barrel-chested breeds (Great Danes and Pit Bulls) and short-legged Dachshunds, can be tougher to fit into traditional harnesses. Some options might be perfect around the waist but too tight in the chest area, and some slip-on options might not even fit over the dog’s head. Harnesses built with specific breeds in mind can accommodate their unique shapes.

Supportive Dog Harness

Senior dogs or dogs recovering from surgery might need extra help navigating stairs or going outside for a potty break and a supportive rehabilitation-style harness can make the job easier for both ends of the leash. These harnesses support and stabilize the dog’s front end in a way that’s comfortable for the dog and ergonomic for the pet parent.

Dual Purpose

Some harnesses can function as both a safe car restraint and a walking harness once you arrive at your destination. While many regular harnesses can be modified for use in the car, seat-belt type harnesses are safer because they’re crash-tested and have metal buckles to keep from breaking in the case of impact.

How to Measure Your Dog for a Harness

Unfortunately, dog harness sizing isn’t universal, which means that one company’s XS could be another company’s M. That’s why it’s important to note the manufacturer’s sizing guide and fit suggestions when determining how to measure for a dog harness. The primary measurement most dog body harness manufacturers require is your dog’s girth, or the circumference at the widest part of the ribcage.

To determine your dog’s girth, wrap measuring tape or string around your dog’s body an inch or so behind the front legs. It should be flush but not tight. If using a string, compare the string to a ruler to get the circumference.

Some harness sizing also requires a lower neck measurement, which is the thickest part of your dog’s neck, just above the shoulders. Place the measuring tape at the base of your dog’s neck so that it’s snug but not too tight.

Harnesses with a chest strap might also take your dog’s chest width in account. You can determine your dog’s width by placing the measuring tape across the front of your dog’s mid-chest and over the breastbone, ending at about an inch behind each leg.

Finally, some harnesses also count your dog’s weight for a perfect fit. You can check your last veterinary record, or pick up your dog and step on the scale together, then subtract your weight from the total.

How Should a Dog Harness Fit?

Comfort is key when it comes to checking the fit of a harness on your dog. Once you’ve put it on, confirm that the harness doesn’t chafe or rub your dog’s skin as he walks, particularly under the front legs in the “armpit” area. Watch for buckles that sit in potentially uncomfortable spots and leg holes and necklines that might be too snug.

The dog harness should be loose enough that you can slip two fingers under it, but not so loose that your dog can accidentally wiggle or slip out of it. Your dog might be able to reverse out the back of the harness or step through the front of it if the fit is off, so attach the leash to it and practice walking in your house to ensure there are no surprise escape points.

As you perfect the fit, adjust one strap at a time until the harness sits evenly and comfortably on your dog’s body.

How to Put on a Dog Harness

No matter what type of harness you select, putting it on your dog requires a little bit of time and effort. Here are some tips for making the experience stress-free for your pup.

Get Your Dog Used to the Harness

Give your dog an opportunity to examine any harness before you try to put it on him. Praise him for sniffing it and give him small treats to keep the introduction positive.

Work through any of your dog’s handling sensitivities before using a harness to prevent it from becoming an unpleasant task.

How to Put on a Mesh Dog Harness (Fashion Harness)

Step 1: To put on a mesh dog harness, hold a treat on the opposite side of the harness so that your dog has to put his head through the neck opening in order to grab it.

Step 2: Slip the harness over your dog’s head until it’s sitting on his shoulders and give him another goody.

Step 3: You can either gently lift your dog’s paw to place it into the first leg hole, or you can slide the strap out of the stabilizer piece in the center and simply loop the strap around your dog’s body and close the buckle. (Some people find it difficult to re-thread the strap once it’s on the dog’s body.)

Step 4: Don’t forget to occasionally check the belly strap to ensure weight gain or loss hasn’t changed the fit.

How to Put on a No-Pull Dog Harness

A no-pull harness requires a little more effort to ensure a perfect fit. Most no-pull harness options like the Easy Walk Harness have multiple adjustment points that can be challenging to refine.

Step 1: Approximate your dog’s size first, before you try to put the harness on. Get the harness and straps close to your dog’s measurements.

Step 2: Once the straps are close to your dog’s size, unclip the silver belly strap and gently slide the already buckled chest and shoulder strap over your dog’s head.

Step 3: Pass the belly strap behind your dog’s front legs and buckle it.

Step 4: Fine-tune the fit so that the belly strap doesn’t rub behind your dog’s legs (particularly the armpit area) and the chest strap is straight across your dog’s chest without sagging.

How to Put a Harness on a Small Dog or a Puppy

The mechanics of introducing and fitting a harness are the same, no matter the size or age of a dog. However, an excitable wiggly puppy might nip at the straps as you try to adjust them, so give your pup something to focus on while you finalize the fit, like a bone or a busy toy.

Let your puppy get used to the sensation of the harness around the house before you head out for your first walk.

If you have a small dog, it can help to place your pup on a table or stair landing when putting on and fitting a harness to make sure you can see all of the components and ensure you have the proper fit.

Harnessed and Happy

Once you’ve selected the right harness for the dog and checked the fit, you and your pup can hit the trails safely and comfortably!

The post How to Put a Harness on a Dog appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Bugs range from being a nuisance, like gnats, to being a true health hazard, like ticks. Keeping ticks off your pet with a parasite preventative is your first line of defense, but these persistent creatures can still latch on despite your best efforts.

In order to pull off ticks safely and effectively, pet parents need to have the right kind of tick removal tools. But with so many options available, how do you choose the right one for your dog?

What is a Tick Removal Tool?

Tick removal tools are specifically designed to safely pull a tick’s whole body and head from your pet without putting you or your pet in jeopardy.

While it might be tempting to just grab onto a tick embedded in your dog’s skin and try to yank it out with your fingers, your hands aren’t the best instruments for tick removal. Not only are they ineffective at getting out the entirety of the tick, but you also run the risk of accidentally squeezing the tick and injecting the infectious agents into your dog.

Plus, pet parents with cuts on their hands are at a greater risk of coming in contact with potential harmful tick-borne disease, such as Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.

Tick tool designs vary from basic tweezer-type implements to tools that use leverage to remove the tick. The right type of tool for you and your pet depends on a few factors:

• Your dexterity
• Your dog’s fur type
• The location of the tick on your dog’s body
• The size of the tick

Speedy tick removal is critical since these parasites carry a number of diseases that are harmful to pets and people alike. Ticks feed on the blood of mammals by latching on for a day to as long as a week. They can’t fly or jump and require direct contact in order to attach to a host, so they’re most commonly found in tall grass, leaves, and woodland paths where a potential host might brush up against them.

What makes these parasites even more dangerous is that they can be tiny—as small as the size of a pinhead or grain of sand. Ticks also like to hide on dogs in hard to find places, such as under armpits, and in and around ears. The best way to prevent disease transmission is to check your dog for ticks after they play in areas where ticks are known to reside, and if you find a tick, use a dog tick removal tool within 24-hours of a tick attaching.

Common Tick Removal Tools

Though the goal is the same no matter the tool, the design and mechanics of how to use tick tools varies. Below are some common types of tick removal tools, how to use them, and which situations they work best for.

Basic Tweezers

Many households already have tweezers but it’s important to note that the pointed, fine-tipped style is the most effective type for tick removal. Metal tweezers are easy to use on ticks of all sizes and can be sterilized by soaking in rubbing alcohol once the job is complete. However, the sharp ends might pinch your dog, particularly if the tick is small.

Tick Key

Instead of pulling up on the tick, this tool moves across the skin to drag the tick out. It’s simple to use, and because it’s not sharp it doesn’t cause pain to your dog when removing a tick. This metal tool can be sterilized once the tick is removed. However, it might not be effective on smaller ticks, since the tool could pass over a tiny tick’s body. The size of the tool might also make it challenging to use on certain parts of your pet’s body, like close to the eyes or on the tail.

Tick Scoop

This plastic tool is a single motion removal tool that gets rid of ticks via a v-shaped notch in a spoon-like bowl. Once the tick is isolated within the notch it can be removed with a forward sliding motion. These tools have a comfortable, familiar shape, and if the tick is large enough it’s easy to remove. However, it might be difficult to capture smaller ticks within the notch, and because it’s made of plastic it’s not as sturdy and can’t be sterilized as thoroughly as metal tick removal tools.

Tick Twister

As the name suggests, this plastic tick tool is shaped like a tiny garden hoe and requires a twisting motion to remove the parasite. This tool usually comes in two sizes, enabling even the smallest ticks to be isolated and removed. However, while the small size is good for snagging tiny ticks, pet parents with large hands might find it difficult to manipulate. It can also be challenging to use on dogs with long fur, as it might become tangled in the tool during the twisting removal process.

Metal Tick Removal Set

These metal tool sets look like medical-grade equipment and can be easily sterilized after use. The tweezer has a long handle that allows for better leverage, and the fine pointed tip can isolate even the smallest ticks. The notched tool can be used with a forward sliding motion for larger ticks. These tools are heavy, which could make them uncomfortable for smaller dogs, and the sharp, pointed end of the tweezers could be painful if accidentally poked into the skin.

How to Safely Remove a Tick

No matter what type of tool you select for tick removal, the basic procedure for how to pull a tick out remains the same. Keep your dog calm during the process since reactivity will make the job more challenging for both parties. It might help to give your dog a xylitol-free peanut butter-filled toy to keep them occupied, especially if the tick is attached in a difficult location.

Step 1: Part your dog’s fur and place the tool near the embedded base of the tick and close to your dog’s skin.

Step 2: Pull the tick out using steady, even pressure and without wiggling or squeezing the tick. Make sure you’re following the directions for removal based on the type of tool you are using.

Step 3: Place the tick in rubbing alcohol to kill it and use an antibiotic wipe or spray to clean the area around the bite.

Step 4: Don’t forget to wash your hands as well once you’ve finished cleaning your dog.

Monitor your dog for signs of illness after the removal of a tick. Check the site of the bite for redness or swelling, and watch for malaise, reluctance to move or a loss of appetite. Contact your veterinarian if your pet’s health declines.

Other Helpful Items for Tick Removal

While picking the right tool to actually remove the tick from your dog is important, pet parents should also have a few other items on hand during the process.

These items include:

• Rubber gloves for an extra layer of protection
• A magnifying glass for small ticks
• Disinfectant for the tick tool
• A lidded jar to keep the tick for further examination if your dog seems ill

Where to Buy Tick Removal Tools

Most brick and mortar pet stores and online retailers carry a variety of tick removal tools. They range from $5 to $15 dollars, and many come in multi-packs.

Given tick size fluctuations and the variety of places on your dog’s body where these parasites can latch, it’s helpful to purchase a few different types of tools so that you’re prepared for speedy tick removal in every scenario.

The post 5 Tick Removal Tools (and How to Use Them) appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Coming when called is one of the toughest cues for pet parents and their pups to master, and when a dog training recall is slow or nonexistent, many pet parents blame their dog for the lack of responsiveness.

While it’s easy to think it’s our dogs’ fault for ignoring a recall, the fact is that if a dog won’t come when called the reason for it is probably related to what the pet parent is doing (or not doing). Even though it might be hard to admit it, a refusal to come when called is less a matter of having a stubborn dog and more likely because the training process is incomplete.

The Importance of Dog Recall

Getting your dog to come to you when called is one of the most important cues you can teach your dog. This is for obvious safety reasons—like if she manages to slip off leash near a busy street—but a speedy recall is also an easy way to reduce potential frustration in your relationship. Trying to corral a frolicking dog when it’s time to leave the park or attempting to call your dog back into the house when it’s time to go to work can be frustrating and can put a strain on your relationship.

Part of the challenge is that teaching coming when called is simple when dogs are young, and many pet parents believe they’ll get the same level of responsiveness as their dog matures. However, without continued practice in a variety of environments—with rewards that make it worthwhile—many dogs find it much more reinforcing to do anything but responding to the recall.

Reasons Your Dog Doesn’t Come When Called

Dog training is a two-way street. Training and behavioral challenges aren’t an indication of a dog’s abilities or lack thereof, they’re a reflection of the amount of team effort that’s been put into training. Rather than placing all of the blame on your dog for blowing off the recall, consider the following reasons why your dog doesn’t come when called.

You Sound Angry

Think about it—if someone called you by gruffly screaming, “Get over here now!” would you be excited to respond? Using an angry tone of voice won’t make your dog race to you, and if you’ve found yourself shouting to get your dog to come to you it’s probably why she runs a few laps before finally heading to you. Sure, a dog that keeps running away or ignoring you is enough to make you want to scream, but if you give in to anger you can almost guarantee that your dog is going to avoid you. Using a happy, upbeat tone of voice, even if you’re frustrated, is more likely to get you a speedy response.

You Use Your Dog’s Name

Most pet parents say their dog’s name all the time, to the point where the frequency of use makes the word the equivalent of verbal wallpaper—it’s said so often that it fades into the background.

The cue you use for recall should be easy to say and shouldn’t have any baggage associated with it. Try simple words or phrases like “Let’s Go!” or “Come Here!” With practice your recall word should have such a positive association that your dog almost reflexively responds to it.

You’re Boring

It’s a huge deal when your dog chooses to listen to you over all of the distractions around her, so simply saying your recall word and then standing there silently as your dog heads your way doesn’t prove how happy you are with her behavior.

Praise your dog as she runs to you! Clap your hands, whistle, and let her know that coming to you when you call is superimpressive.

You Pair it With Something Negative

Dogs pick up on patterns quickly, so if responding to a recall means that the fun at the dog park is ending or you’re going to crate her for the rest of the day, it shouldn’t be a surprise if your dog is running away when you call. Yes, sometimes you have to call your dog to do something that’s not fun, but you should always try to have an interim moment of play or training to keep a “bumper” between the recall and the potentially negative or less-fun experience.

You Stopped Rewarding Your Dog Too Soon

Again, it’s important to note that coming when you call is a big deal, especially in distracting environments, and deserves a little extra recognition. For most dogs that means getting a treat. Many pet parents are eager to get rid of treats once the basic training process is over, and while that might be okay for everyday around-the-house behaviors like sit, requesting that your dog comes when called deserves treats for much longer because it’s a challenging behavior. While you don’t have to give treats for coming when called every single time for the rest of your dog’s life, you should continue to give your dog occasional treats to keep your dog invested in playing the recall game.

You Never Trained in Different Environments

Sure, your dog might be fantastic at coming when called in your yard, but did you practice it in other spaces as well? Dogs aren’t great at generalizing behaviors, which means that just because your dog understands a behavior in one context doesn’t mean that it’s understood in every context. In order for a dog to consistently respond to a recall, she needs to have ample opportunity to practice it in a variety of environments.

How to Get a Dog to Come When Called

Feeling frustrated because your dog runs away and won’t come when you call? Don’t worry. While there are many nuances to building a strong recall, the good news is that the basic steps are straightforward and fun to master.

Since your dog has a history of blowing off the recall, the best way to address this challenge is to build the behavior as if it’s a brand-new cue.

Step 1: First, select a new word for the behavior. If you’ve used your dog’s name or a word that he’s learned to ignore, use something different, like “Here.” Then go back to the basics!

Step 2: Ask a friend or family member to help out with the initial re-training stages. Start off working on the cue in the house so that it’s easy for your dog to be successful. Grab a pocketful of moist, high-value treats, and spread out so that your dog can see both you and your helper and has enough space to get to a galloping run between you.

Say your new cue word once in a happy tone of voice, then whistle, clap or make kissy noises to encourage your dog to come to you. It might help to squat down or back up if your dog seems reluctant to approach you. When she arrives at your feet immediately give her a treat and then lots of praise. You want her to realize that she just did something amazing!

Step 3: Have your partner do the same thing, and then take turns calling your dog back and forth. Keep this exercise quick and easy and leave her wanting more!

Step 4: Move outside to your yard (as long as it’s a safe, closed-in environment) and begin with the same basic back and forth recall. Keep rewarding your dog every time she comes and keep your cue, tone, and actions upbeat, since there are lots of distractions outdoors.

Step 5: Once your dog has mastered the recall inside and outside of your own home, you can find novel, safe spaces to practice. This could be a fenced-in tennis court or a friend’s fenced yard. Keep working on your recall in different environments to help your dog retain the response.

If you want to mix up your recall training with your dog, try adding in a hide-and-seek element to your indoor sessions so that it starts to feel like a game. You can do this outside too, in your yard, to show your dog that coming when called is fun.

Keep rewarding your dog with treats during the re-training process and continue to occasionally treat your dog for coming when called once it’s solidified so she never knows when she’s going to get lucky!

The post 6 Reasons Your Dog Won’t Come When Called appeared first on Great Pet Care.

While petting a dog might seem straightforward, there’s more to doing it right than you might imagine.

Whether you’re determining if your own four-legged friend truly appreciates the type of petting he’s getting or attempting to make new canine friends through petting, doing it right requires focus and a solid understanding of canine body language. Once you tune into the fur beneath your fingertips you can make petting a happy and calming experience for all.

Do Dogs Like to Be Pet?

When a dog enjoys petting, you know it. They’ll wag their tail and rear end loosely and often paw at you to keep going if you stop. But the surprising reality is that not all dogs love petting.

Some dogs that don’t enjoy touch make their preferences clear. If you try to reach for them, they duck their heads away or move just out of reach. However, because we don’t always correctly interpret what our dogs are telling us it takes focus to pick up on when a dog is subtly signaling that they don’t want petting.

For example, a dog that doesn’t like petting might tolerate touch but not ask for more when it’s over. Touch-resistant dogs might also offer a different behavior when you try to pet them, like grabbing a toy and trying to engage with you that way instead.

Whether it’s because of the dog’s general preferences or due to environmental stressors (like a dog that’s nervous in a veterinary waiting room), recognizing when a dog doesn’t want contact and honoring the request is the first step in creating a bond.

Why Don’t Some Dogs Like Petting?

What might cause a dog to not like touch? Much like the way some people don’t like hugs or handshakes, some dogs are just wired to not appreciate petting in the traditional sense. Dogs that are bred to work independently of humans—like livestock guarding dogs—might also shy away from petting.

If a dog has previously suffered from abuse or had a bad experience in a former household, he may also be resistant to petting or take a longer time to warm up to your touch.

Just because a dog doesn’t enjoy petting doesn’t mean that they don’t like connecting with people. We can express affection for hands-off dogs in other ways, like hiking or playing together, or even just being physically present with them.

Best Places to Pet a Dog

Every dog has preferences about how and where they enjoy being touched. For some it might be a nice scratch on the rear right above the base of the tail. For others, it’s a relaxing massage on those hard-working shoulders.

Pinpointing your dog’s favorite way to be touched is a combination of trying different locations and watching your pup for feedback as you touch. It might feel strange to pay close attention to a part of your relationship that feels so basic, but confirming your dog’s petting preferences is yet another way to show that you respect your dog’s wishes.

Most dogs enjoy being petted on these parts of the body:

• Sides of the neck
• Under the chin
• Shoulders
• Chest

If your dog is relaxed and rolls so that his belly is available, he might be asking for tummy rubs. But be aware that a nervous dog might expose the stomach as an appeasement gesture in times of stress.

Petting preferences can also be linked to a dog’s past. For example, dogs with a history of ear infections or problems might dislike hands anywhere near their head, while other dogs without similar baggage might enjoy a gentle massage along the edges of the ears.

Touch is a bonding activity that can also have therapeutic benefits if you pay attention to the topography of your dog’s body as you stroke. Not only is touch a stress reducer, pet parents who tune into their dogs while they pet are more likely to pick up on changes to their dog’s coat, skin and overall health.

How to Pet Your Dog

Obviously, the rules of engagement are more relaxed when petting your own dog versus one you’ve never met before, but it’s still important to pay attention to your own dog’s responses when you touch him.

Step One: Assess the Scenario

Even the most snuggly pup can turn his nose up to physical contact in stressful situations, like at the vet or when getting ready to enter the dog park. Always consider what’s going on around you when you get ready to pet. You’ll be more likely to get a “yes please” reaction if you’re chilling on the couch with your dog on a lazy Sunday than in a high-pressure scenario.

Step Two: Watch Body Language

On the left: Dog pulling away from a pet. On the right: More please!

The most important part of petting your dog is learning to read what he’s saying as you do it, which will help you determine his petting location preferences. Your dog’s body language will clue you in as to whether you’re hitting the right spot, or if he’d like it a little lower and to the left please.

Watch for slow breathing, closed eyes, and moving in closer to you as you touch. If your dog licks around his muzzle frequently, yawns, or moves away, he’s probably not enjoying the contact.

Step Three: Check In

Pet your dog for three to five seconds then stop and watch your dog’s reaction. Does he move closer to you or use his paw to swat at your hand for more? He’s enjoying your massage! If he doesn’t do anything to encourage additional contact or moves away, take a break and find a different way to connect with your dog.

How to Pet a Dog You Don’t Know

On the left: Don’t go overhead to try to tap a dog on the head. On the right: Crouch down and let a dog come to you—don’t force it.

Petting a dog that you’ve never met requires a more choreographed approach. It’s critical to let the dog lead the dance rather than making assumptions about the type of interaction he wants.

Step One: Ask for Permission

Check in with the pet parent to make sure it’s okay to try to connect with their dog and listen to their answer. Some pet parents are reluctant to say “no thanks” outright, so if they say something like, “he’s shy” or “he can be funny with people he doesn’t know” it’s best to say hello from a distance and move on.

Step Two: Approach Slowly and Ask the Dog’s Permission

Rushing over to an unknown pup is sure to startle him. Once you’ve gotten the okay from the dog’s pet parent, walk over slowly from the side rather than head-on. Watch the dog as you get closer.

Does his body language look welcoming, with a loose, waggy tail and happy, relaxed face? He’s saying yes! Or is he avoiding looking at you with his ears down and his tail tucked? That’s a definite “no thanks.”

Step Three: Let the Dog Initiate Contact

For larger dogs, stand with your body sideways and for smaller pups, kneel facing sideways. It’s not necessary to extend your hand, as a dog’s keen sense of smell can pick up plenty of information about you even from a distance.

Wait for the dog to approach you and allow him to sniff. If the dog chooses to stay away, he’s not interested in connecting with you.

Step Four: Do the 3-Second Pet Test and Respect the Response

If the dog gets close to you, pet him gently on the shoulders for three seconds then stop. If he asks for more, like pawing at you or moving closer, you can keep it up. If the pup doesn’t make an obvious move for more physical contact say thanks and move on!

What NOT to Do When Petting a Dog

Dog petting etiquette is important, whether you’re reaching for your own dog or one that you meet while out on a walk.

Make sure to avoid the following dog-petting faux-pas:

• Reaching over a dog’s head to pet
• Slapping/thumping the dog’s head
• Hugging or restraining as you pet
• Holding the dog’s face or muzzle
• Petting against the fur’s direction
• Continuing to pet if the dog says “no thanks”

We can get so caught up in our own enjoyment of petting a dog that we forget to focus on the recipient. Petting can be a wonderful stress reliever with health benefits for both pooch and person if we recognize that our dogs have petting preferences, and then honor those wishes.

The post How to Pet a Dog appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Most puppies welcome the opportunity to play with other canine companions, but as dogs mature, they develop preferences about the type of dogs they like to be around, if any. (Yes, some dogs are born loners.)

That said, there are proactive steps pet parents can take to help dogs get along with each other that range from simple household management techniques to basic training that will help ensure a happy canine siblinghood.

Why Some Dogs Can’t Get Along

Much like humans don’t like every person they encounter, our dogs may feel the same way about their own species. Of course, there are some dogs that seem to get along with every pup they encounter, but most have preferences related to their age, size, general health, and even breed type.

Age can play a major role in dogs not getting along. Some older dogs might not enjoy the nonstop energy and lack of social graces from a rambunctious puppy. Mature dogs with aches and pains might also feel uncomfortable with other adult dogs that want to play hard.

However, even dogs close in age can have issues which are related to their social status. Two dogs of a similar age that are jockeying to be “top dog” in a household can lead to scuffles.

Dogs that aren’t introduced properly might have lasting negative feelings towards one another. The first meeting between two dogs is an important time to set the tone for future interactions. Dogs that are unable to go through a safe, ritualized greeting process might wind up uncomfortable being around one another long-term. And despite the popular advice to let dogs “work it out” on their own during a first meeting, allowing dogs to escalate to a full-on fight is never a safe idea.

Sometimes dogs just don’t get along for reasons we’ll never understand. Even when proper introduction protocols are followed and the dogs are well-matched in age, size, and temperament, there’s a chance that they won’t enjoy hanging out. Some siblings merely tolerate one another rather than falling in love, and as long as there’s peace in the household, this type of polite but not-so-friendly relationship is fine.

How To Help Dogs Get Along

If you are considering adding a dog to your pack or want your dogs to get along better, there are some ways that pet parents can help encourage a better relationship. Follow these tips to increase the likelihood of friendships between dogs.

Introductions Should Be Slow and Steady

The best way to introduce dogs is to use a neutral outdoor fenced area for the initial meeting. Both dogs should be on loose leads handled by experienced dog handlers who understand dog body language.

To begin, allow the dogs to parallel walk on either side of the fence so that they’re close enough to catch one another’s scent. Then bring both dogs into the space and parallel walk them ten to fifteen feet apart. If the dogs’ body language looks loose, waggy, and friendly, begin to decrease the distance between them. Then, once both handlers are confident with the dogs’ reactions, drop the leashes and allow the dogs to greet fully.

If the meeting seems strained or tense at any point, go back to the prior step of the process and slow down the pace.

Allow Decompression Time

Even though you might dream of an all-day play session starting the moment you bring your second dog home, the reality is that you should allot for important downtime if you want to help two dogs get along. Any dog that’s new to your home, particularly a dog that’s spent time in a shelter environment, needs a chance to unwind and adjust to the environment.

Set up a quiet, dog-proofed space for your new dog with a crate and a few treat-stuffable toys and take your time before fully integrating your new dog into your household. And keep in mind that even bestie-dogs that love playing together can use a break from one another, so schedule time for them to rest apart as well.

Manage the Environment

Some dogs will scuffle over prized resources like food bowls, toys, or bones. Feeding dogs in separate spaces is always a good idea. Have separate resources, like food and water bowls, bedding, and toys, for each dog If your dogs get surly over consumable like bones, use a baby gate to keep them safely apart during chew time.

Keep in mind that dogs can also guard locations, like a dog bed, or less obvious ones like a favorite spot on the couch or a prized outdoor viewing window. If your dogs constantly bicker over locations, try to make the spot inaccessible to both dogs, then reintroduce it gradually.

Learn Canine Body Language

Dogs have a nuanced communication system that we don’t always understand, and in many cases it happens so quickly that we don’t even see it. Our dogs are communicating with one another constantly, even if it’s as subtle as a glance or an ear flick.

Pet parents that tune into what their dogs are saying to one another are better able to predict when a situation is getting tense, and can intervene and redirect dogs before things spiral out of control.

Recognize Acceptable Corrections

Sometimes dogs are jerks to one another. They crowd the other’s food bowl, or sniff a bum for longer than acceptable, or tackle harder than necessary when playing. It might be off-putting to hear one dog tell another, “hey stop it” with a growl, but sometimes a dog-to-dog behavioral correction is necessary to keep the peace.

A quick, appropriate correction (such as a growl or bark) is a part of canine siblinghood and doesn’t mean that you’re headed for Armageddon. In a well-balanced home the boundary-pushing dog will heed the canine correction and back off immediately, and everything should go back to normal.

If not and the dogs continue to escalate, consider seeking professional help from a certified trainer.

Institute a “Say Please” Program

Multi-dog homes need manners, and there’s no easier way to do manners training while keeping the peace than by asking both dogs to politely ask for anything they want. A “say please” program asks dogs to do a simple training behavior to get something they want, like sitting politely before you put down the food bowl.

This protocol can be used anywhere. Rather than jockeying for position at the door to get outside, which can escalate tension, ask both dogs to sit for a few seconds, then release them to go out. Recognizing potential trigger situations between dogs and deescalating them using say-please training can help keep everyone in the household happy.

Spay/Neuter Your Dogs

Dogs that still have their sexual organs may have a harder time getting along with other dogs. Intact male and female dogs both have increased aggression related to sex hormones and may seek to be dominant more than neutered dogs. To keep the peace, it is best to spay/neuter all dogs in multi-dog households.

When To Seek Professional Help

Sometimes scuffles between dogs mean more than just sibling rivalry. If your dogs are fighting more than they’re getting along, or they’re injuring one another or you during fights, it’s time to find a qualified trainer or behaviorist to assess the relationship.

The hope is that a slow and steady introduction into the household, good management techniques, and an understanding of dog communication will help dogs get along and lead to a lifelong friendship.

The post How to Help Dogs Get Along appeared first on Great Pet Care.

Not all dogs display this howling behavior, and even ones that do don’t howl at emergency sirens all the time. But when dogs let out a howl, they seem to be answering a primal call encoded deep within their DNA.

Do We Know Why Dogs Howl at Sirens?

The truth is that researchers and animal behaviorists don’t know exactly why some dogs howl when a siren passes by. But there are plenty of theories. Are they trying to communicate with the sound? Does it hurt their ears?

While researchers don’t have definitive answers, they do believe that the root of the behavior likely lies within a dog’s genetic history.

Dogs and Howling: The Ancestry Connection

Wolves are often depicted with their head thrown back in a long howl—the behavior is almost synonymous with them. This unique form of communication serves a few purposes in the wolf community, from gathering the pack to location-finding.

A recent study out of Austria attempted to learn more about the specifics of why wolves howl (1). The study set out to determine if captive wolves could control howling vocalizations or if they were triggered by emotional stress. Researchers discovered that not only were howls voluntary, they were often a result of being separated from an important companion, like the pack leader or a preferred partner. This may be why modern-day dogs howl due to separation anxiety.

Surprisingly, one of the findings from the study suggests that howling is not necessarily tied to emotional stress. Scientists measured the cortisol in captive wolf saliva and discovered that the levels of stress didn’t correlate to the intensity of the howling.

Certified dog behavior consultant and dog trainer Pat Miller, owner of Peaceable Paws LCC, agrees that there’s probably a hardwired, instinctual element to domestic dogs howling. “I tend to buy into the theory that it harks back to wolves howling in packs and they enjoy it, especially because some dogs will also howl when other dogs howl,” she says. “If we want to be technical, we could say that dogs have a genetic propensity to be reinforced by the opportunity to howl along with others.”

Do All Dogs Howl at Sirens?

Not all dogs practice this behavior, though breeds as varied as Boston Terriers to Boxers start howling at fire trucks, ambulances, or police cars when they pass by. Hounds like Beagles, Coonhounds, Foxhounds, and Bloodhounds, are known for their distinctive howls, likely because they’ve been selectively bred to howl while on the hunt to let their handlers know where they are.

“Many of the Nordic breeds, such as Malamutes and Huskies, are also howlers,” Miller adds, “perhaps because they are believed to be closer to their wolf ancestry than some of our other breeds.”

Do Sirens Hurt a Dog’s Ears?

While dogs have much more sensitive hearing than ours, it’s unlikely that loud siren sounds hurt their ears.

Miller states that dogs generally don’t react to sirens in ways that suggest pain, especially if they respond by howling.

“Signs that a dog finds sirens aversive might include hiding, trembling, and running away from the sound, rather than staying in place and howling,” she says.

For many dogs, howling is a group sport, because when one begins the others join in. This also suggests that siren sounds aren’t painful, despite dogs’ sensitive hearing.

Other High-Pitched Sounds That Cause Dogs to Howl

It’s not just emergency sirens that can trigger a long, full-throated howl from the family dog. The internet is filled with videos of dogs howling along to pianos, reed instruments like flutes and saxophones, guitars and other high-pitched sounds like human singers.

Some dogs pick a single note and hold it, while others let their vocalizations slide along to match the instrument, a feat that suggests that dogs have a sense of pitch. If the sound becomes problematic or frequent, you can consult a dog trainer or behaviorist to get your dog to stop howling. But the occasional outburst at a siren or ambulance driving by shouldn’t be considered a behavior problem and is nothing to worry about.

Howling is yet another adorable canine habit that we dog owners might never completely understand, but it’s one we can all enjoy!

The post Why Do Dogs Howl at Sirens? appeared first on Great Pet Care.

“Some dogs fear restraint and some have had bad experiences and experienced pain during a nail trim,” says professional dog trainer Lori Nanan. “These things can make nail care stressful and difficult.”

Keeping your dog’s nails at the right length is about more than just aesthetics or floor preservation—doing so prevents pain and even injury. Nails that are too long can lead to uneven weight distribution, splayed feet, mobility issues, and in extreme cases, the nail might even grow into the paw pad. 

Dogs that spend more time outside might wear down their nails naturally, but most dogs require regular nail clipping to keep them at a comfortable length. 

While a major part of successful nail trims is the training that occurs before you even make your first snip, choosing the best equipment for the job can help to alleviate some of the stress for both parties. Pet parent groomers who are comfortable with the trimming tool will feel more confident with the task, and that sense of calm will translate to your dog.

Dog Nail Clippers: Understanding the Basics

Picking the right dog nail clippers can feel overwhelming since you’re choosing for two parties. You want a tool that’s comfortable and easy to use, but you also need to consider your dog’s size and nail type. 

“Don’t skimp on quality,” Nanan suggests. “Look at products groomers use to get a sense of what’s considered best.”

Keep in mind that dog nail trimming equipment can dull over time, so if you’re investing in a pricier product, make sure that you’ll be able to keep the blade sharp. A dull clipper can lead to extra pressure on the nail, which will make trimming even more uncomfortable. Plus, it could leave a jagged nail edge.

So how can you tell when your dog needs a nail trim? If you can hear your dog heading your way, they’re probably too long. Nanan says that trimming nails until they’re “just off the floor” keeps your dog’s paws comfortable but still allows for traction. 

The Difference Between Dog and Cat Nail Clippers

The difference between dog and cat nail clippers might come down to marketing. 

“Most can be used interchangeably between dogs and cats,” says Caitlin Kucsan, professional groomer and owner of Pugs & Kisses Pet Care. “However the scissor style (see below) seems to work best on cat nails as they are typically much less hard to cut than a dog’s.” 

Opt for a smaller size when picking cat nail clippers to prevent over-clipping.

Types of Dog Nail Clippers

Dog nail trimming tools come in a variety of styles—and all have different functionality and uses.

Nanan suggests that if your dog has had a negative experience with one type of clipper, switch to a different tool. “You can build a new positive association more easily than undoing a negative one,” she adds.

Below are some of the common types of dog nail clippers you’ll find in most pet stores:  

Scissor/Plier Style 

This nail trimming standby functions like regular scissors, with a blade at one end, usually notched, and handles at the other. Plier-style trimmers have a spring near the blade for added strength. This style can be used on dogs of all sizes and are particularly good for larger breeds. 

Guillotine Style

These clippers have a small opening for the dog’s nail and the blade cuts through when the handles are squeezed. Guillotine nail clippers can be used on dogs of all sizes but it can be challenging trying to thread bigger dog nails into the opening.

Grinder Style

This rotary tool doesn’t actually clip your dog’s nails but uses a sandpaper-like barrel to grind down your dog’s nail. Grinders can be used on dogs of all sizes, but they might require a longer introductory phase because of the noise the tool makes and vibrations on the paw. 

How To Use Dog Nail Clippers

Learning how to use dog nail clippers takes some time, patience, and practice. It also requires that pet owners work with their dogs ahead of time to get pets comfortable with the clippers. 

The Introductory Phase: Step by Step

The best advice when learning to use dog nail clippers is to let your dog set the pace. Before you try to cut your dog’s nails, give him a chance to get to know the equipment. The goal is for your dog to associate nail clippers with something positive and pairing the tool with lots of high value treats is a great way to make that connection. 

Step 1: To begin, show your dog the clipper. Let him sniff it and then immediately give him a meaty treat or a small piece of cheese. 

Step 2: Gently move the clipper towards his foot then give him a treat. Continue this process, gently touching the clipper to your dog’s front and back paws and then rewarding him with a treat. Repeat this for a few successive sessions. Be upbeat and positive during the beginning stages—you want your dog to think the tool is something wonderful.

Step 3: Get your dog used to being held. Keep in mind that it’s not just the nail cutting that many dogs object to. For some, being restrained is enough to make them start flailing. You will need to keep your dog’s paw steady as you cut, so it’s important to acclimate him to that sensation as well. 

Begin by briefly picking up your dog’s paw for a moment, touch the clipper to it and then give him a treat. Over the course of several sessions work up to holding your dog’s paw in a way that resembles how you’ll grasp it when you actually cut it—with the nail isolated and extended. 

Hold your dog’s paw in this position briefly, touch the clipper to it then release him before he starts to struggle and follow up with a treat. 

Step 4: Once your dog is comfortable with this sort of foot handling (don’t forget to do it on the back feet too), start touching the clippers to his foot in a way that mimics what you’ll do when you cut. Exert gentle pressure on both the paw and the clipper handles, without cutting. Always follow up with a treat. 

The Nail Trimming Phase: Step by Step

Once your dog starts showing a positive reaction when the clippers come out, you’re ready to try an actual cut. But keep in mind that you won’t be trimming all of your dog’s nails during the first session. Take things slow and go at your dog’s pace. 

It helps to put smaller dogs up on a table so you don’t have to contort yourself (or your dog) to handle his paws.  

Step 1: Isolate your dog’s nail, making sure to move the fur out of the way. For dogs with light nails, identify the quick, which is the nerve and blood vessels in the dog’s nail. The quick isn’t visible in dogs with black nails, so use caution when cutting and only clip a small amount of nail each time. Accidentally cutting the quick is painful and it will cause a dog to bleed, so be careful to avoid cutting too deep. 

Step 2: Cut just the tip of the nail straight across. Then release your dog’s paw and give him a treat. If the nail is still too long, make another small cut, then give another treat and then stop for the day.

Step 3: Continue clipping nails in ongoing sessions until you’ve trimmed all of them. Eventually you’ll be able to get through all sixteen to twenty nails in a single session, but it’s best to go slowly during the acclimation process.  

Pro tip: Don’t forget to trim the dew claw, which can be hidden in fur. This thumb-like nail is usually found on the front legs, but may also be present on the back legs in some dogs. It doesn’t touch the ground and grows unchecked, so it’s likely to be longer and thicker than the rest. 

Safety Tips for Trimming a Dog’s Nails

Taking your time during the acclimation process and making nail trims a positive experience can turn this chore into a day at the spa. The following safety tips will help set you and your dog up for success:

Begin training early. Start introducing a new puppy to “touch for a treat” paw handling right away and make it a very positive experience.

Trim your dog’s nails frequently. The longer you wait to cut your dog’s nails, the longer the quick grows inside the nail and the more likely it is that you’ll nick it.

Be careful of fur when using a grinder. Nanan suggests putting your dog’s paw in a stocking or sock to keep the hair clear of the spinning drum. 

Don’t forget the styptic powder. Accidents happen, and if you nick your dog’s quick it’s going to get messy. Styptic powder is an antiseptic clotting agent that stops bleeding quickly. 

Listen to your dog. If your dog is fighting you during the nail trimming process it’s likely you pushed too hard. Nanan reminds pet parents to recognize that if nail care is a struggle, it’s not because your dog feels like giving you a hard time about it, it’s because he’s having a hard time with it. However, if you pick the right tool for the job, introduce it slowly and trim with care, you and your pup will “nail it” in no time!

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Sometimes a canine digging habit simply makes your yard look bad, but digging can also lead to escape if your dog discovers how to tunnel his way under a fence or barrier. 

Digging rarely goes away without intervention. In order to figure out how to stop a dog from digging, you first need to identify the reasons behind it, then apply dog-friendly training to redirect your dog to a more appropriate activity. 

Why Do Dogs Dig?

Dogs like to dig for a variety of reasons. Digging can range from a fun leisure activity to a breed hallmark, or may be caused by a combination of any of the following factors:   

Boredom: While dogs love spending time in the great outdoors, the caveat is that they enjoy it most when with their people. Dogs left alone outside often resort to creative ways to stay occupied, like barking or digging.  

Fun: Let’s face it—digging is fun! Sinking paws into the earth probably feels good, and sometimes the dirt even plays back when dogs discover roots or scurrying bugs. 

Hiding items: Some dogs like to keep their precious bones and toys hidden away and take them to the yard (or couch!) to bury them. This behavior can become an expensive habit when dogs bury every bone they receive!

Chasing prey: Many dog breeds that dig, like terriers, are driven to put their noses to the earth to find creatures underground, and even the hint of something furry under the surface is enough to encourage excavation.

Temperature control: Dogs that are outdoors in extreme temperatures (either heat or cold) might dig to find relief from the weather by burrowing into the ground.

Escape confinement: Sometimes it’s hard to resist the call of the wild and dogs will dig to get out of their yards in search of adventure. This is especially true for dogs that are not neutered or dogs that spend too much time alone outside.

Dog Breeds That Dig

Any dog can learn to love digging, but there are many breeds that are genetically predisposed to dig in search of prey.  

Terrier breeds dig to uncover rodents, rabbits and other critters. Dogs from the hound group also burrow to get to prey or follow scents anywhere they might lead—including underground. Working dogs might dig to find just the right temperature. 

Some dog breeds that dig include:

• Jack Russell Terriers
• Cairn Terriers
• Airedale Terriers
• Fox Terriers
• Dachshunds
• Beagles
• Huskies
• Malamutes

Pet parents with a breed that is predisposed to digging may find it more challenging to alter the behavior. 

How To Stop Dogs From Digging

The first step in figuring out how to keep dogs from digging is determining the motivation behind it. Unfortunately, there’s no single one-size-fits-all solution that will work for every dog, particularly those driven by instinct. 

Using a multi-tiered approach can help keep dogs from digging in the yard. Try these tips to stop dogs from digging.

Increase daily stimulation. It’s a safe bet that every dog can use more daily enrichment, especially those that like to dig. Properly exercising your dog goes beyond daily walks. Take time to play games that engage your dog’s brain and body. Activities like find the toy, scenting games, and fun trick training will help to wear out your dog so he’ll be less inclined to dig.  

Keep him busy outside. Rather than sending your dog out to the yard with nothing to do, give him a treat-stuffed activity toy or messy marrow bone that will help to keep him focused on something other than digging. However, this option isn’t a good fit for diggers that like to hide their treasures.

Make an outdoor dig pit. Creating a sanctioned digging zone can be helpful for dogs that like to dig for fun or those that dig to hide goodies. Block off an area in your yard with a border and fill it with loose soil or sand, then hide a few goodies in the dirt and encourage your dog to find them. Always praise your dog when he chooses to dig in his special spot.

Make an indoor dig pit. Dogs that like to dig in the couch when trying to bury a treasure might enjoy a dig zone that they can really manipulate. Find a box with low sides or a plastic storage container and fill it with scraps of fabric or packing peanuts, then place a few treats in the mix and encourage your dog to find them. Just keep an eye on your pup to make sure he’s not eating any of the packing peanuts.  

Encourage indoor bone time. If your dog immediately heads outside whenever he gets a bone, lock the door and encourage him to chew inside only. Just be prepared—you might have to deal with sad looks as your dog adjusts to this new reality.

Supervise your dog. Rather than turning your dog outside to spend time in the yard alone, go hang out with him. Spending quality time together is always a good idea, and if your dog starts digging you can redirect him to a more appropriate activity like a game of fetch or a stuffed treat toy.

Relocate tempting yard critters. Encourage underground animals to move on to the next house with natural repellants like applying a mix of water and castor oil in their burrows, using animal-safe grub control to kill off their food source, or placing vibrating spinners along their tunnels. 

How to Stop a Dog From Digging Under the Fence

Making sure that the fence line around your yard is secure is critical to ensure your dog’s safety. Advice about preventing dogs from digging under the fence usually suggests fortifying the base of the fence with cement, chicken wire, or large rocks, but the problem of repeat escapees requires more than just a prison guard mentality. 

Dogs that are driven to leave the yard repeatedly most likely have needs that aren’t being met. They might be bored and under stimulated, frightened by something in the environment, or not neutered and seeking a mate. 

The first step to prevent dogs from escaping in the yard is to inspect and fortify fences and barriers for safety. But, more importantly, if you want to figure out how to stop your dog from digging under the fence, consider your dog’s total wellbeing and take steps to improve his lifestyle to decrease his desire to dig and escape.

Dog Digging: When to Involve Professional Help

If your dog continues digging despite your efforts, it’s a good idea to involve a professional dog trainer, particularly if your dog can’t be redirected to a more appropriate activity or if he repeatedly manages to escape your yard. 

Rehabbing a dog that digs requires supervision and dedication, but with the right approach you’ll be able to convince your four-pawed gardener to pick up a new profession!

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